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  • Lightroom Tricks: How to Process Video in Lightroom Classic CC

    Video? Wait…what? Isn’t this Digital Photography School? Yes, it most certainly is and yes you indeed read the title of this article correctly. I’m about to show you how easy it is to actually process video right inside of Adobe Lightroom Classic CC.

    Now, this isn’t exactly a true hack (no Matrix stuff here) but it is a way for you to “work around” some of the limitations of Lightroom when it comes to processing your video files.

    A possum and a movie camera 1943

    By Australian War Memorial collection from Canberra, Australia (A possum and a movie camera 1943) [No restrictions], via Wikimedia Commons

    Lightroom has always been able to support limited video editing in the Quick Develop module but not in the processing powerhouse that is the Develop Module. Many photographers today tend to work with some type of video format in addition to their photography ventures. I happen to run my own YouTube channel which means I shoot quite a bit of video as well as working in straight photography.

    Lots of wedding and event photographers split their time between making images and recording video. Furthermore, aerial photography and video have exploded lately with the increased commercial availability of drones. This means there are a lot of photographers out there with video files that need to be processed quickly. If you’re in a pinch, being able to use Lightroom to easily process a quick video is invaluable.

    Alright, enough of building it up. Let’s get down to business and learn how to use Lightroom process video files.

    Import the Video

    The process of importing a video file into Lightroom is exactly the same as any other image file. Once the video file is imported you have the ability to view and play the video in its entirety right inside of the Library  Module.

    This is where the problem with video processing in Lightroom begins. Once you try and switch to the Develop Module you’re confronted with this…

    Lightroom Tricks: How to Process Video in Lightroom Classic CC

    Conventionally, this is as far as you can go with your video file. If you stop here you’re limited to the Quick Develop buttons at the top right.

    Lightroom Tricks: How to Process Video in Lightroom Classic CC

    You do have the ability to apply presets here but these are an end unto themselves. Meaning, you can’t adjust the video appearance using the adjustment sliders in the Develop Module. Or can you? Yes, you can, as a matter of fact. And this is where the gentle hacking begins.

    Capture a Frame

    To begin your Lightroom trickery, and therefore the editing of your video, you first have to capture a frame of the video. This essentially becomes an image file and you’ll use this image to apply your edits that will eventually be transferred to the video. To obtain the frame capture, simply click the small frame icon below the video and select Capture Frame.

    Lightroom Tricks: How to Process Video in Lightroom Classic CC

    Now you have what is really just a screenshot from the video. The new frame capture appears immediately after the video in the film strip (see red arrow below).

    Lightroom Tricks: How to Process Video in Lightroom Classic CC

    Process the Frame Capture

    To process your frame capture you first need to switch over to the Develop Module from the Library Module. It’s easy to think that you somehow need to augment your workflow since you’re processing a frame capture. This is not the case.

    Process this image captured from the video just as you would any other normal photo. Keep in mind though that you are only able to save the following edits for transfer to your video.

    Lightroom Tricks: How to Process Video in Lightroom Classic CC

    Only the adjustments not greyed out below are available to copy over to video files.

    Here’s the breakdown:

    • Treatment and Profile
    • White balance
    • Exposure
    • Contrast
    • White clipping
    • Black clipping
    • Vibrance
    • Saturation
    • HSL
    • Split Toning

    Yes, unfortunately, there will be no Clarity, Sharpening or Vignetting applied to your video in Lightroom. But look at that list! Of special interest is the tone curve which will give you amazing control over the look of your video. For this example, I’ve made some fairly extreme edits for the sake of demonstration.

    Lightroom Tricks: How to Process Video in Lightroom Classic CC

    You may be thinking “Okay, but how do I get those edits onto the video?” You’re in luck. I’m about to show you how, and it’s incredibly easy.

    Sync the Edits

    The magic happens when you synchronize the edits you’ve just made to your frame capture with the video file you’ve imported. In truth, you can sync the edits from any image you have in the Lightroom catalog but the most predictable method is by using a still from the actual video you’re processing.

    To sync the processed frame capture and the video, first, you need to switch back to the Develop Module. Then use Ctrl/Cmd+click to select both the video file and the frame capture from the film strip.

    Lightroom Tricks: How to Process Video in Lightroom Classic CC

    Next, it’s just a matter of clicking the “Sync Settings” button at the bottom right.

    Lightroom Tricks: How to Process Video in Lightroom Classic CC

    That’s it! All of your edits are instantly transferred from the frame capture to the video.

    Lightroom Tricks: How to Process Video in Lightroom Classic CC

    Export the Video

    Once all the editing is over, the method to export the video file is just as simple as importing. Simply choose the destination, file naming and quality settings for the video. You can even add your own watermark.

    Lightroom Tricks: How to Process Video in Lightroom Classic CC

    Final Thoughts….

    Is processing your videos in Lightroom the ideal method? I don’t think so. Is it an easy and effective way to apply some creative edits to your video file? Absolutely.

    I actually process most of my videos in this manner and then export them to another program to finish the cutting and final processing. Lightroom gives us the ability to apply most of the same processing power to our videos, with a few limitations.

    If you’re like me and constantly on the go, being able to stay in a familiar photo processing program like Lightroom is a welcomed alternative to more involved video processing software. Try it for yourself if you need an easy way to process your video clips!

    The post Lightroom Tricks: How to Process Video in Lightroom Classic CC appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • Skylum’s DAM will launch as a free beta for current Luminar owners

    Skylum has announced that a beta version of its Digital Asset Manager (DAM) for Luminar will arrive ahead of the full product launch. The beta will be provided for free to owners of the current Luminar version, the final sale of which will be revealed “within a few weeks,” the company said. After this final sale, Skylum will increase Luminar’s retail price, promising that it will “still be very affordable.”

    Skylum hasn’t yet revealed a shipping date for the DAM, explaining that it is still working on development ahead of the beta arrival. The company anticipates its DAM taking Luminar “in a new direction,” offering faster workflows, custom workspaces, a less cluttered interface, and much more. Talking about this is Skylum president Scott Bourne, who said in the company’s recent blog post:

    Skylum plans to build our DAM so that we can keep simple things simple. We’re focusing our research and engineering efforts on a few key things. We want our software to be fast. Our goal is to be the fastest. Period. We also want to make sure that with Luminar, it will be fast, fun and easy to browse, rate, edit, share, and enjoy your pictures. That’s it.

    Future versions of Luminar will be created with the company’s design goals in mind. Skylum is encouraging its customers to make sure they’re using the latest Luminar version to be put in the queue for the eventual free beta DAM.

    Via: 43Rumors

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Light reportedly has phones with ‘between 5 and 9 lenses’ due out later this year

    In 2015, Light burst onto the photography scene with the introduction of the L16, a portable camera that promised ‘DSLR quality’ photos in a pint-sized package thanks to a unique design that featured 16 different lenses and sensors.

    It wasn’t until 2017 that we were able to get a peek at the first full-res image samples. Since then, there hasn’t been a lot of positive feedback surrounding the functionality and image quality of the camera, but it seems they’re far from done working on its multi-camera setups.

    According to a report from Geoffrey A. Fowler of The Washington Post, Light has shown off concepts and working prototypes of phones that include between five and nine lenses. ‘[Light] says its phone design is capable of capturing 64 megapixel shots, better low-light performance and sophisticated depth effects,’ says Fowler in the article.

    We’re not exactly sure what Fowler means when he says ‘its phone design,’ as Light has never stated intentions of creating its own phone. What Light has said in the past is that it’s working with manufacturers to put its cameras and software into future devices.

    In speaking to Wired in December 2017, Senior Vice President of Marketing and Product Design at Light, Bradley Lautenback, said ‘one manufacturer is already at work on a Light-enabled phone, and more are in the works.’

    According to The Washington Post report, Light says ‘a smartphone featuring its multi-lens array will be announced later this year.’ There’s no word on what manufacturer it’ll be from, but considering Foxconn is an investor in Light, it wouldn’t be a surprise to see it from a company with ties to the Taiwanese manufacturer.

    The list of smartphone manufacturers who are customers of Foxconn include: Apple, Blackberry, Huawei, Microsoft, Motorola, Xiaomi and others.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Voigtlander releases details and price of its 110mm F2.5 Macro APO-Lanthar for Sony E-Mount

    Lens manufacturer Cosina has provided more specification for the Macro APO-Lanthar 100mm F2.5 lens that it first announced at CP+ in March. The E-mount lens is due to begin shipping in August 2018, and is quoted on the Japanese website as having a price of ¥148,000 – approximately $ 1350/£1050 before tax.

    The new manual focus lens offers 1:1 macro and a closest focusing distance of 35cm. It uses three floating lens groups for focusing to ensure optimal quality at all distances – according the Cosina – and apochromatic correction to produce high resolution and detailed images for the full frame Sony sensors.

    With electric contacts the lens can transmit aperture and focusing information to the camera, which will be recorded in the EXIF data of the image as well as being used to inform the 5-axis image stabilization systems of the Sony range. The contacts also allow manual focus assistance to be triggered by turning the focusing ring.

    For full specification see the Cosina website.

    Manufacturer information

    Macro APO-LANTHAR 110mm f/2.5 E-Mount

    Voigtländer MACRO APO-LANTHAR 110mm F2.5 is a high performance manual focus 1:1 macro lens optimized for the imaging sensors of Sony mirrorless cameras. Inheriting the APO-LANTHAR designation, the lens is highly corrected to eliminate optical aberrations including longitudinal chromatic aberration. The lens covers the full frame image area, and achieves a maximum image reproduction of 1:1 life size with no additional attachments. In order to ensure subjects from minimum focus distance to infinity are captured with extremely high image quality, a 3-group floating mechanism is employed to adjust three optical groups according to focus distance. The 110mm focal length on full frame format ensures not only a good working distance from subjects for macro shooting, but also its angle of view for portraiture does not look too cropped in comparison with 135mm and 200mm lenses. Another attractive feature is the ability to create images with a strong out-of-focus ‘bokeh’ effect, made possible by the 110mm focal length and F2.5 maximum aperture. This lens is a manual focus and manual aperture design, but also features electrical contacts that enable the lens settings at image capture to be included in the Exif information of the image data. Furthermore, the lens is installed with a distance encoder to enable support for 5-axis image stabilization on bodies with this feature, by providing distance to subject information used to compensate for camera shake. Focus peaking while manual focusing is also supported.

    Main Features

    • Full frame Sony E-mount with electrical contacts
    • Apochromatic optical design that eliminates chromatic aberrations
    • Optical design optimized for digital imaging sensors
    • Maintains high image quality at all shooting distances with a 3-group floating mechanism
    • Extremely solid and durable all-metal barrel
    • Manual focus for precise focusing
    • Maximum reproduction ratio of 1:1 at a minimum focus distance of 35 cm

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • How to Search Potential Cityscape Photography Spots Online Before Traveling

    As an avid cityscape photography enthusiast (primarily shooting at the blue hour), I always spend quite a number of hours studying potential cityscape shooting spots before traveling to a new destination. Knowing everything from what to shoot, where to shoot from and how to get to those locations before departure will save you a ton of time and hassle, especially if your stay is rather short.

    Hk 0106 - How to Search Potential Cityscape Photography Spots Online Before Traveling

    Thanks to my pre-departure study online, I was able to locate this vantage point along Lugard Road at Victoria Peak (Hong Kong) without any hassle.

    Hk 0173 - How to Search Potential Cityscape Photography Spots Online Before Traveling

    Hong Kong skyline shot from Convention and Exhibition Centre. Another location that I successfully scouted online before traveling.

    You can always start this location study with the obvious (Google!), but there are also other resources that help you find photography spots. Those are Flickr, 500px, stock photography websites, and photography forums to name but a few.

    Personally, Flickr is my go-to resource, as there are more than 10 billion photos (according to their 2015 stats) and numerous groups dedicated to many big and small cities around the world. You can ask questions and possibly get answered by local photographers.

    Finding what to shoot is a piece of cake. 10 minutes browsing Flickr gives you a number of potential locations. You may argue that those places are over-photographed or that you’re just copying what others have already photographed. But as a first-time visitor, I’m happy to start with the most popular locations because they are over-photographed for a reason.

    Flickr - How to Search Potential Cityscape Photography Spots Online Before Traveling

    With more than 10 billion photos available, Flickr is my go-to resource when searching potential cityscape photography spots.

    Finding Out Where a Photo Was Shot

    The next up is finding where to shoot from (i.e. The exact spot where the photo was shot) but this can be much harder. Sometimes the photo has a clue in itself, such as a name of the building (e.g. hotel name). Then, just get onto Google Maps and do a virtual walk around the area using Street View.

    Let’s use Hong Kong, the city that never stops fascinating me with its amazing cityscapes, as a case study for this article. For the photo below, I shot from a footbridge on Connaught Road Central, finding the name of the building on the left (International Finance Centre) eventually led me to locate the exact shooting spot (see on Google Maps) after virtual-walking around a lot on Google Street View.

    Hk 0171 - How to Search Potential Cityscape Photography Spots Online Before Traveling

    Shot from a footbridge on Connaught Road Central (Hong Kong).

    Try Your Luck Asking Photographers Directly

    On other occasions, this crucial piece of info (the shooting location where the photo was taken) can be found in the title or description of the photo. If not, check through the comments to see whether anyone has already asked this particular question.

    What I’ve found interesting is that there are photographers who normally reply to comments but somehow don’t respond to this type of question asking where it was shot. It might be because they are not really happy to share that information with a complete stranger trying to shortcut their way to an epic shooting spot they discovered by themselves (possibly by walking around for hours).

    That said, there is no harm in asking. The worst thing that could happen is that you receive no response.

    Author’s note: If you ask me about cityscape shooting spots in Singapore (where I live), I won’t hold anything back. I’m happy to provide all the info you need!

    Asking in Flickr Groups

    In case you’re hesitant about asking the photographer directly, you can also try asking in a Flickr group. Once I found a nice Hong Kong street photo with a street name included in the description. So I got onto Google Street View and moved up and down the street, but couldn’t locate exactly where the photo was shot.

    As I saw this particular photographer not responding to any comments at all, I went into a Hong Kong group within Flickr and asked whether anyone knows the exact location by including the street photo in my question. Then, a fellow photographer kindly responded with the answer, which led me to shoot the photo below (shot from a footbridge over Paterson Street Tram Station, see on Google Maps).

    Hk 0144 - How to Search Potential Cityscape Photography Spots Online Before Traveling

    Hong Kong street view from Yee Wo Street.

    Use Google Maps to Find Directions from Your Hotel

    Lastly, let’s talk about how to get to those newly found amazing locations. Accessing directions have never been easier these days, thanks to Google Maps.

    Prior to the trip, get onto Google Maps and find the directions starting from your hotel. To record the route, take a screenshot or copy the link from your browser’s address bar so that you will be able to revisit the page using hotel’s WiFi later.

    This may not be commonly known, but Google Maps also lets you save a short URL of the directional map. Just go to “Menu”, then click “Share or embed map” and check “Short URL”. You can also save maps for offline use as well if you don’t want to incur roaming charges and can’t access any WiFi.

    Google map - How to Search Potential Cityscape Photography Spots Online Before Traveling

    Saving a directional map using “Short URL” feature on Google Maps.

    List Photography Spots in Order of Priority

    Let’s say I’m traveling for a 5-day, 4-night stay. Then, I’ll make a list of four cityscape photography spots to shoot at dusk. Plus I’ll add one or two backup spots just in case any of the original choices are unexpectedly unavailable due to a special event taking place or something. I select only one spot per day, as I’m only interested in shooting cityscapes during evening blue hour and try to gather as much information as possible before traveling.

    It’s also important to list them in order of priority so that you know which place to drop if you can’t shoot on the first evening due to heavy rain, for example. In fact, such a situation often happens, so you should establish a clear order of priority for your shot list in advance.

    Consider Revisiting: You Learn Something New Every Time You Go Back

    Up until this point, I’ve talked about the importance of pre-departure preparations such as knowing where to shoot from. However, it’s also true that a single visit may not be enough to let you go home with best possible photos unless you’re staying for weeks. If you’re only staying for 4-5 days like I typically do, you may get unlucky with the weather and not be able to capture any photos that you’re happy with.

    If that’s the case, consider revisiting the destination! The great thing about revisiting the same place is that you learn something new every time you go back, such as discovering lesser-known photography spots, finding a faster way to move around, etc. Besides, you can try new restaurants and coffee shops alike, and after a few visits, you’ll be able to walk around the city like a local!

    Hk 0182 - How to Search Potential Cityscape Photography Spots Online Before Traveling

    On my second visit to Hong Kong, I found this lookout point on Stubbs Road through a bus window on the way to Victoria Peak. So the next day I dedicated one evening to shoot at this spot. This is a good example of learning something new every time you go back.

    Hk 0029 - How to Search Potential Cityscape Photography Spots Online Before Traveling

    I planned to go back to Lugard Road lookout point at Victoria Peak to shoot Hong Kong skyline again, then accidentally diverted from the road to find this spot behind Peak Tower, so changed my plan to shoot here, instead.

    Conclusion

    I hope this helps you with your pre-departure search on what to shoot, where to shoot from, and how to get to those locations. These tips are quite basic, but it’s almost a prerequisite in order not to waste your precious (but limited) time at the destination, especially for those of us traveling only for a few days.

    If you have any other cityscape photography tips to share, please do so in the comments below.

    The post How to Search Potential Cityscape Photography Spots Online Before Traveling appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • Alpa’s HXD adapter lets you mount Alpa lenses on Hasselblad’s 50MP X1D camera

    Swiss camera and lens manufacturer Alpa has launched ALPA HXD, a new adapter for mounting Alpa lenses on Hasselblad X-mount cameras.

    An interesting feature of the adapter is that in addition to mounting individual Alpa lenses onto Hasselblad X1D camera bodies, you can also mount an X1D directly onto the back of an entire Alpa camera module, effectively turning the X1D into a digital back for Alpa camera systems.

    The adapter works with Alpa and Rodenstock SB17 and SB34 lenses with focal lengths between 32mm and 180mm. Longer focal length SB34 lenses can also be used if you stitch multiple photos together in post-production, but Alpa says to check the online compatibility guide.

    Alpa notes ‘lenses for Hasselblad V, Pentax 67 and those with PL mount can be attached via the respective ALPA lens modules’ as well. Below is a gallery of images captured with various Alpa/Rodenstock lenses and camera modules attached to a Hasselblad X1D via the adapter:

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    Shooting can be done in full manual mode, as expected, but Alpa specifically mentions the ability to use the Hasselblad X1D’s aperture priority mode for ‘comfortable and easy’ shooting. Alpa also emphasizes how the electronic viewfinder on the Hasselblad X1D makes it easy to focus with its focus peaking function.

    The Alpa HXD is priced at CHF 759.00, which comes out to roughly USD $ 762 at the current exchange rate. You can find more information and order an adapter on Alpa’s website.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • How to Make and Photograph Rainbow Water Droplets on a CD

    Do you enjoy doing a nice experiment, that gives you colorful photographs? In this article, you’ll discover how you can create a photo of rainbow water droplets using simple household objects and your imagination. The technique uses the principles of refraction and applies it in an easy to use way.

    A nice experiment to do while it’s raining outside, create your own water drops and photograph them in an experimental way. So it’s time to setup your home laboratory, and photograph droplets on a CD!

    colorful CDs - How to Make and Photograph Rainbow Water Droplets on a CD

    You can make some captivating rainbow colors by using this technique.

    What you need to photograph water droplets on a CD

    As mentioned, you’ll need just some simple household items to carry out this photo of rainbow water droplets. You’ll also need some camera equipment as well!

    • CD – This is what’s needed to create the rainbow effect, make sure the shiny surface is clean.
    • Water dropper – Any simple dropper will do, you could use an eye dropper perhaps.
    • A glass of water – You’ll need a supply of water handy.
    • A flashlight – Any flashlight or headlamp will work for this technique.
    • A camera – Your camera must be capable of doing long exposures.
    • A macro lens – This works best with a macro lens or a camera with a built-in lens capable of close-up photography.
    • A tripod – This is a long exposure technique, so you will need a tripod.
    • External shutter release – In a pinch, you could use the camera’s self-timer, but an external shutter release will be better.
    How to Make and Photograph Rainbow Water Droplets on a CD - gear needed for this technique

    These are the items you’ll need for this technique.

    The method

    The following describes the simple method you’ll need to follow when creating this style of photo. The most important thing is you’ll need a dark room.

    1. Place your CD on a flat surface, this can either be a tabletop or the floor.
    2. Add water droplets to the surface of the CD using the dropper. Make sure they make a nice pattern.
    3. Now put your camera on the tripod.
    4. Position the camera and tripod so that the camera is looking straight down onto the CD.
    5. Focus the camera using manual focus and live view. Keep the camera in manual focus so that you retain the focus position. If your camera is on autofocus, when you turn the light off and hit the shutter, you will lose the focus.
    6. Your camera should be set to expose for around 20-30 seconds, the aperture will need to be around f/10-14. This aperture allows for both the long exposure and keeps the depth of field for the water droplets wide enough to ensure they’re all focused.
    7. Now switch the light off. Ensure the room is as dark as possible, so avoid one where there might be light seeping in from outside.
    8. Hit the shutter or trigger to begin the exposure.
    9. Turn your flashlight on. Make sure the light does not shine up directly into the lens element, use a lens hood if you have one.
    10. Keep the angle of the light roughly vertical and slightly down towards the surface.
    11. Now circle the light source around the CD, and let the magic happen! Adjust the length of time you do this for depending on how bright you wish the photograph to be.
    12. Repeat and adjust as necessary. You may wish to try different angles for the torch (flashlight), the higher the torch the more light you’ll see on the reflective surface of the water drop. Using different camera angles may also work well too.
    How to Make and Photograph Rainbow Water Droplets on a CD - camera setup

    The basic setup for this photo looks like this. It will of course be dark when you expose the image.

    Other water droplet experiments

    This is not the only way to photograph droplets, there are in fact a host of different methods out there. Here is a brief list you could also try out.

    • Water droplet – Taken using water dripping into a tub, and captured using a strobe. This is a great technique to try out.
    • Water droplets on glass – Use refraction to make amazing photos with water drops, and repeating patterns.
    • Water droplets after the rain – This one you’ll need to go outside for. Photographing droplets on flowers or spiderwebs always looks nice.
    How to Make and Photograph Rainbow Water Droplets on a CD - color water drops

    There are lots of other ways you can photograph droplets. This is taken with droplets on glass.

    Start creating your water droplet photos!

    Photographing droplets is a lot of fun, and I hope you enjoy trying out this idea. Have you ever tried photographing droplets before? Did you use a CD to do it, or one of the other methods mentioned in this article.

    As always I’d love to see your images in the comments section, together with any comments you may have.

    How to Make and Photograph Rainbow Water Droplets on a CD

    Using closer framing, or different angles can change the look of the photo.

    How to Make and Photograph Rainbow Water Droplets on a CD

    Changing the angle of the flashlight to a higher angle means you’ll catch the light reflection on the CD’s. Play with it until you get the look you like.

    The post How to Make and Photograph Rainbow Water Droplets on a CD appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • Fujifilm X-T100 sample gallery

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    The Fujifilm X-T100 sits between the entry-level X-A5 and midrange X-T20 and features a 24MP APS-C sensor, eye-catching design and a unique articulating LCD. Our sample gallery was shot with a number of lenses, including the 15-45mm equiv. kit lens and several primes.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Review: Peak Design Anchor Links System for Camera Straps

    I’ve had all sorts of camera straps and carrying implements over the years. From traditional neck straps that come with most cameras to sling-style attachments to simple wrist straps and even, on occasion, daring to go out into the world with no camera strap at all.

    My main issue with most camera straps is that while a lot of them are designed for specific situations such as portraits, sports, travel, or hanging out with friends I haven’t yet found one that works for every occasion. That’s where the Peak Design Anchor Links system comes into the picture and solves this problem once and for all.

    Mostly.

    Review: Peak Design Anchor Links

    The issue with camera straps

    Choosing a camera strap feels more like a marriage than a dating relationship. Most aren’t easy to attach and remove without twisting some screws, threading some nylon through impossibly small holes, or making your fingernails bleed while wrestling with a key ring-style securement device.

    As a result, when I buy a camera strap it usually stays on my camera permanently but often gets in the way when I want to take pictures in a scenario that the strap just wasn’t meant for.

    Peak Design Anchor Links System – the solution?

    The Peak Design Anchor Links system helps remedy this issue but in a bit of an odd way. Anchor Links don’t really do much on their own, and they’re not even camera straps at all.

    What they are is a way for you to add a huge degree of flexibility to whatever you are currently using to help carry your cameras. They give you a great deal of choice and freedom when it comes to picking a strap that’s right for any given occasion.

    Review: Peak Design Anchor Links - Fuji camera and a wrist strap

    Sometimes I like to use wrist straps, and sometimes I prefer larger over-the-shoulder straps.

    How it works

    Using Peak’s Anchor Links is pretty simple and involves two basic parts: the strap loop and the connector. The strap loops are small red and black circular tabs with about an inch of cord sticking out. These are what you attach to things you want to carry. The most obvious items are cameras but you can use them on virtually anything that needs to be carted around from pouches to lens cases to accessory bags and more.

    The anchors are small connectors that attach to your camera strap, wrist strap, shoulder handle, or anything that you use to actually carry around your gear. There is no special magic to these anchors. You just thread your existing camera strap through the slot on one end of an Anchor just like you would thread a strap through the attachment point on your camera.

    It takes just about a minute to get up and running with the Anchor Link system and if you’re like me, you’ll soon wonder what you did without them.

    Review: Peak Design Anchor Links - camera with a neck strap

    It took less than 9 seconds for me to switch from a wrist strap to a neck strap thanks to the Peak Design Anchor Link system.

    So what’s the big deal?

    When I first got the Anchor Link system I didn’t really see what the big deal was. How could a set of anchors and connectors really help me with my photography?

    What I realized over months of using this system, is that simply having the ability to attach and detach camera straps at a moment’s notice has freed me to focus on other things that really matter. These won’t help you get better photos, and won’t teach you about composition and lighting. But you might find yourself bringing your camera more places than usual simply because you have so much more flexibility with how you carry it.

    When I’m out with my family I can clip a traditional neck strap on in about three seconds flat. If I need to go handheld I can attach a wrist strap in no time. Then when I want to move a strap from one camera to another, it’s done in mere moments.

    On a recent maternity session, I was able to pack my cameras and lenses securely and put all my various straps in a separate bag. Way better than trying to wrestle everything into a single container while dealing with unwieldy lengths of padded nylon.

    Review: Peak Design Anchor Links

    Anchor Links can be attached to other items such as bags and pouches, or even key rings.

    In the field

    In terms of durability, I have had no issues whatsoever with the Anchor Link system and have trusted some very heavy camera/lens combinations to these tiny little cords without any problems. Peak Design claims each anchor link can support over 200lbs and while I don’t know if I would go that far personally, it is nice to know they’re rated for far more than my camera gear actually weighs.

    It seems weird to trust a $ 20 attachment to hold a $ 4000 camera/lens combination, but it’s fair to say that the weakest link in the system would probably be whatever strap you are using and not these anchors.

    Drawbacks

    There are a few drawbacks to the system, namely that the more you use them the more you end up with button-sized anchor disks hanging from your camera gear. Also for some wrist straps, the attachment that secures to the anchor disk can seem a bit large. But I use the system daily with a wrist strap on my Fuji X100F and it has never been a major issue.

    These are minor quibbles though, are almost not worth mentioning for something that is so immensely practical.

    Review: Peak Design Anchor Links on a Fuji camera

    The strap loops are small and don’t really get in the way, and Peak Design claims they are made out of a durable plastic that won’t scratch your cameras when hanging loose.

    Conclusion

    Finally, it’s worth mentioning that Peak Design has recently re-designed the system to be thinner and easier to use. I currently use the older system and they have never felt clunky or unwieldy, so I would imagine the revised version is just as good and probably even better.

    Overall it’s hard not to recommend the Anchor Links to just about any photographer whether casual, professional or anywhere in between. A basic set with four anchor links and two attachments costs about $ 25 and can give you a huge amount of flexibility and freedom no matter what type of photography you do.

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  • How All JPEG Images are Cobbled at Birth

    Everybody knows that JPEG images are prone to compression artifacts. Meaning every time an image is opened (whether altered or not) and re-saved, the tonal structure of the photo is recompressed using the same destructive process. File recompression always causes additional detail to be lost. Every time a JPEG image is adjusted in any way, those original 256 levels of color are redistributed and detail is lost.

    Watchtower Full

    Watchtower JPEG - All JPEG Images Are Cobbled At Birth

    JPEG files offer various levels of file compression and repeated editing and saving causes further degradation.

    But, that’s the least of the JPEG limitations.

    First of all, JPEG is an old format originally designed for a long-past era. A group of photographic experts (Joint Photographic Experts Group) was assembled in 1986 for the single purpose of whittling down very large image file sizes:

    1. To display on old CRT (Cathode Ray Tube) computer monitors – basically old TV sets without the channel tuners
    2. To travel efficiently over the fledgling (slow) Internet, which was designed to accommodate the best broadcast television standards
    3. In order to compress them for size and portability. The first JPEG specification was released in 1992 and ratified again in 1994.

    Now over 25 years later, the same format is still in use!

    The Price of the Program

    Many elements of a digital image get altered with JPEG file compression. True, massive amounts of disk real estate get saved in the process but significant other parts of the image get thrown away.

    First, the full RGB signal is converted to an abbreviated color space used for analog TV, called YCbCr. CRT displays are driven by red, green, and blue voltage signals, but storing RGB signals involves redundant data. While most of the luminance (brightness) information (Y channel) is retained, the two color channels (red and blue) are significantly reduced in scope.

    JPEG Nassau - Why All JPEG Images Are Cobbled At Birth

    Highlights clipped in the JPEG process are still present in the RAW file.

    An original RGB camera image (TIFF, PSD) contains massive levels of color; many of which the human eye cannot distinguish. Since the end goal of JPEG is zero-body-fat, once a base interpretation of the image is defined, and the 256 colors identified, almost all the “extra” colors are removed, leaving a mere skeleton of the color range.

    Colors are characterized as bit depth; the number of tiny measured steps between full color and no color. Humans can only perceive 200 levels of each color under ideal lighting.

    The Problem

    The decision on what colors get eliminated is pre-designated by a cookie cutter JPEG template, rather than by the human evaluation of each image’s tonal structure. JPEG restricts the color for all images indiscriminately. One template fits all. Excess information is discarded.

    Basically, JPEG compression is like weight loss by body part elimination rather than fat reduction; more of an amputation than a diet. As I’ll explain later, the production of a JPEG file is the ideal final format, but not the most ideal for image editing.

    JPEG makes use of a basic human sight limitation. We can see tonality more than we identify individual colors. This is why we see only shapes in low lighting conditions. Basic luminosity is retained with JPEGs but much of the color is down-sampled.

    The next multistage high-math transformations in this process get mind-boggling very quickly, so let’s just say that some very intricate 8×8 pixel matrix calculations take place based on the limitations of visual perception. True optical illusionary voodoo is at work to further reduce the “weight” of each image. The vulnerability in this mass weight loss program is that JPEG colors are weakest in the highlights and can display nasty artifacts when the images are re-saved. All those compression calculations take place again when JPEG images are re-saved.

    JPEG Clouds - Why All JPEG Images Are Cobbled At Birth

    The basis of JPEG compression involves a complicated formulation involving blocks of 8 pixels. The values of each block are quantized and distilled into similar colors to eliminate color variations that the human eye has trouble distinguishing.

    JPEG files typically reduce the size 90% from the original PSD or TIFF file with little perceptible loss in image quality, as long as the file remains unchanged in size and content. Images that contain significant areas of similar tones (skies, building surfaces, etc.) benefit most from this file compression format.

    Quantization

    This JPEG standard is not an image resolution issue as must as it is a color depth issue. The number of pixels is not reduced, but the number of colors is. The “pixelated” appearance is not caused by a reduced number of pixels, but a reduction of the color quality of those pixels. The visible loss comes from changes to the initial 8×8 pixel matrix when the edited file is re-saved.

    In 1992 it was unthinkable to produce images at a higher quality than TVs could broadcast, including the 256-tone limitation and the sRGB color gamut. In 1992, this was state-of-the-art stuff and it served the industry well for many years.

    14-bit sensors can capture 16,000 levels of color in each RGB channel.

    But then Silicon Valley developed camera image sensors and processors that could handle more than 8-bit images. That meant that digital manufacturers began building cameras whose images contained twice the level of color (10-bits, or 1000 levels of color).

    Next, “deep-bit” images were accommodated by Adobe within Photoshop which changed everything. Much larger color spaces were developed to support this newly expanded color depth. (Keep in mind that bit depth is simply a way of dividing an image’s range into much smaller steps between zero color and full color of a pixel).

    Deep (Color) Space

    My friend Bruce Fraser (the father of color management) worked with Adobe to formulate what we know as Adobe RGB. Later a larger color space was developed called ColorMatch RGB. Even later, an even larger color space was developed and was labeled ProPhoto RGB. All three of these color spaces exceed the 256-level limitation of JPEG.

    But even if an image is edited in one of these larger color spaces, when it is saved as a JPEG, it is automatically reduced to 8-bits (256-levels) per channel.

    Bit depth is the measure of tones between full color and no color. JPEG images affect the image bit depth, not the image resolution, as commonly believed. Each time a JPEG file is re-saved, the color loss increases and the image clarity decreases.

    Camera JPEGs

    Camera-saved JPEG files are “shaped” by the camera settings in place when the image is captured. The algorithm applied to the image data harvested by the image sensor reflects the color model (sRGB, Adobe RGB, and ProPhoto RGB), sharpening preferences, etc.

    A word about compression. Compression is probably not as accurate a term to describe JPEG limitations as it could be. Compression sounds like what your Aunt Martha does when she uses a girdle to compress herself into a smaller “container,” but that’s a totally different thing. When she is decompressed, all of Aunt Martha is still there.

    JPEG uses “lossy” compression, which really means that some parts were discarded (or lopped off) for good. Aunt Martha only wishes her girdle would help her permanently “lose” something.

    Think of image compression more like an abbreviation. When a JPEG file is saved to disk, the data captured by the camera’s image sensor gets compressed into a general mold, dictated by the color settings in the camera when the picture is taken.

    Photo Finished

    This JPEG process effectively plays the premature role of photofinisher, stamping out its own interpretation of the scene. What started out as a 4000-16,000 level per color image gets reduced to a 256-level picture with just a skeleton of color, leaving precious little room for tone (or color) adjustments.

    JPEG March - Why All JPEG Images Are Cobbled At Birth

    Both dark and light tones were clipped by the JPEG template but recovered from the RAW file.

    JPEG Bit Depth Template - Why All JPEG Images Are Cobbled At Birth

    JPEG limitations of 256 levels often clip brighter tones to white and darker tones to black prematurely (top grayscale above). RAW images allow the user to recover details that appear lost (bottom grayscale).

    If the camera settings were not perfectly set to capture the brightness (bit depth) and contrast (tonal range) of the existing scene, the JPEG-rendered the photo leaves little room for recovery.

    In the end, every image will be reduced to a 256-level file before it is either shared publicly or produced as a print. That’s just the nature of photography. There are very few printing devices that can reproduce more than 256 levels of color, and even if they could, the human eye couldn’t see those extra colors anyhow.

    While digital cameras can capture up to trillions of colors, human eyesight recognizes less than 200 individual red, green, and blue colors.

    JPEG Sufficiency?

    So if we can’t see more than 200 different levels of each color (and JPEG provides 256, why do we need the billions captured as RAW files? Simple answer… those excess levels provide ample elbow room to push color levels and saturation into the most visually ideal 256 tones for printers to print and humans to observe. It’s all about optimizing detail.

    JPEG Harbor - Why All JPEG Images Are Cobbled At Birth

    The dynamic range of the beach scene exceeded the JPEG “template” and highlight detail appeared to be lost (left) but was retained in the RAW file (right).

    Conclusion

    So what can we take away from this?

    First, JPEG is the most basic of photo file formats and is only ideal (as a camera file) when ALL the pre-capture lighting factors match the current camera settings. Second, it’s always best to set your camera to record both hi-level JPEG and RAW files as an insurance policy. And third, the unabridged image data saved as a RAW file enables the final JPEG to be shaped (as close as possible) to what your mind perceived when you clicked the shutter button.

    JPEG is the digital file format you want to end up with but it is not always the one you want to start with. There is a waste factor involved in every manufacturing process, and digital imaging is no exception. It’s better to have too much than too little. Always start with more than you need.

    Intend to lose the weight, but do it on your schedule.

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