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  • 9 Ways to Create Balance in Your Photography

    Sometimes it feels like getting the right composition is an endlessly moving target, with this technique and that idea and many other considerations. Balance is one of the more complicated concepts but is also a really powerful tool that is worth investing some time learning. To help you out, here are 9 ways and elements you can use to help you create balance in your images.

    lighthouse - 9 Ways to Create Balance in Your Photography

    What is balance?

    Balance is a way of composing an image so that all elements complement each other equally. Visual tension or harmony are created which results in a pleasing image.

    Many different elements can be involved with incorporating balance into your image composition:

    1. Color
    2. Light versus shadow
    3. Texture
    4. Visual weight
    5. Subject placement
    6. Relation of elements to each other
    7. Symmetry
    8. Depth of field
    9. Negative space

    How do you achieve balance?

    When you compose your scene you need to think about the different elements and how they interact and relate to each other. What is the story you want to tell or frame up? What is the emotion you are trying to convey?

    Balance can be harmonious, where all elements are equally present and form an aesthetically pleasing whole – symmetry is a good example. A landscape scene perfectly mirrored in a still pond or lake is very harmonious.

    An image can have visual tension due to unbalance. It may seem counterintuitive to say that this also creates balance but think about negative space or a small spot of bright red in an otherwise dull image.

    Often several different factors come into play in considering balance, it’s not necessarily just one problem to solve for each image. Every image has color, a subject, tone, contrast and so on, which are all involved in producing your final image.

    Some of these concepts have to do with the mechanics of how you take the photo (light/shadow/contrast/tone) and some are more compositional (symmetry/negative space/subject placement). So there are many different things to consider at once within each image.

    Let’s look at each in more detail:

    #1 – COLOR

    cherries in a bowl - 9 Ways to Create Balance in Your Photography

    Even though this is a very dark image with a lot of blacks, the rich intense color of the cherries is not lost in the background – the color, quantity and placement balance out against the black shadows

    Color has a great impact on your images.  When color film finally emerged it had a huge impact on photography. Being able to see bright colors instead of monochrome was very different. It lead to many different styles and techniques in photography and is still the dominant way images are processed today.

    It allows you to evoke emotion, create tension, highlight a specific element, catch our attention and tell the story of the image in different ways.

    garden with a red bush - 9 Ways to Create Balance in Your Photography

    Take this garden shot with all the different foliage shades of green and yellow – yet the eye goes immediately to the small but prominent red flowers. This image has balance because the red has a lot of visual weight but physically is only a small part of the overall image.

    If it was much bigger it would overwhelm, instead, it gives somewhere to start the journey looking at all the different textures and colors contained in the garden.

    b/w of a bike - 9 Ways to Create Balance in Your Photography

    Using color to evoke a mood, a feeling, or a period of time

    This old bicycle turned into a Welcome sign at a historic homestead. By opting for a slightly sepia tone it picks up all the textures in the shot and evens out all the different competing colors.  The focus becomes the bicycle and not the bright green of the grass or the red of the chicken in the background. Changing the colors balances out all the other elements and allows the subject you want to be the focus.

    #2 – LIGHT VERSUS SHADOW

    Light and shadow are the opposite elements necessary for photography. If you have light, in general, you will have shadows. When you have both present it gives your subjects added dimension, they become physical rounded elements, not flat even though they are being viewed in a flat 2D medium (either printed or on a screen).

    Contrast and tonal difference make an image more dynamic and interesting. Contrast comes from the difference between the amount of light and shadow in an image.  More contrast also widens out the tonal range of the image, when it is too similar it will look very flat (like the seaside landscape below).

    overcast seascape image - 9 Ways to Create Balance in Your Photography

    This image taken on a heavily overcast day has very little contrast, it’s quite flat and tonally similar and as a result, lacks punch and impact. It is not balanced in the light/shadow equation and it shows up visually as a result.

    So learning to use both light and shadow together can create balance in your images. The horseshoe image below was specifically shot to use the harsh midday sun to generate the shadows and capture the patterns and how they hang on the nails. It would be a much less interesting image without the shadows.

    horse shoes in b/w - 9 Ways to Create Balance in Your Photography

    #3 – TEXTURE

    Texture can be present in different ways – in the image of the spoons with spices (below) there are three layers of texture – the background surface, the spices in the spoons, and some scattered spices.  While there is a lot of texture in the image, it balances due to the scale and the blending layer in between which softens the difference between the spices and the industrial background.

    If the extra scattered spices were not there it would not work as well as they help transition the eye around the image.

    spices in 3 spoons - 9 Ways to Create Balance in Your Photography

    This blueberry shot uses texture in a different way, where the subjects themselves become the textural element, with some added interest in the form of water droplets. Without the droplets, it was a much less interesting image, and the fine detail of the droplets help balance out the size of the berries, giving the eye more elements to engage with.

    blueberries - 9 Ways to Create Balance in Your Photography

    Think tree bark, patterns on the water, brick walls, cracks in the pavement, clouds in the sky, foliage in a garden, shiny reflective metal, stones in a pond, sand at the beach. Think long exposure to produce soft foamy waterfalls or interesting cloud patterns. Consider ICM (Intentional Camera Movement) for soft blurred effect or pretty light trails.

    Texture is all around you and in everything you see, but it is often taken for granted. Texture can be highlighted and become a key element in your image if you take the time to see it and take advantage of it.

    #4 – VISUAL WEIGHT

    This is a tricky concept to come to grips with as it sometimes seems a bit contradictory. How can a small element overwhelm a bigger image? How can one color dominate another one?

    In the butterfly image below, the tones are all very similar, even the colors are shades of yellow and brown. Yet the visual weight is actually held by the fuzzy green leaf in the bottom corner.  If you crop the bottom section off it completely changes the feel of the image, and the butterfly becomes more prominent.

    monarch butterfly - 9 Ways to Create Balance in Your Photography

    One of my personal favourite images is of a fresh new bright limestone headstone in a cemetary of very old and weathered stones (below). The light was at the perfect angle to highlight the one stone which carries the visual weight yet is only a very small element physically within the image.

    The central placement works well in balancing the other elements around it and allows more of the story to be told – if the focus was tight on the headstone it would have had a very different feel to the image.

    cemetery - 9 Ways to Create Balance in Your Photography

    5. SUBJECT PLACEMENT

    Where you place the subject in the frame is important in many ways. It can be used to show scale, the relationship between elements, to highlight tension, or to create a specific feel or stylistic tone to an image.

    A classic example is the Rule of Thirds – where it is taught that a center placed subject lacks drama and impact – place the subject on the third lines to make it more dynamic within the frame. When the subject is looking in a particular direction, where you place them affects the feeling of the image. If they are looking out of the frame, placing them close to the edge is quite a different image than if you compose the image so that they are looking more into/across the frame.

    In the cave image below the people add balance by providing scale. Without them there we would be unable to appreciate the true size of the cave as we have no context to apply. The bright colors of their clothes also offer some visual weight in contrast to the textured details of the rock walls. The positioning at the bottom of the frame grounds the image and helps tell the story.

    large cave opening - 9 Ways to Create Balance in Your Photography

    The placement of this bellbird on the branch is an appealing balance of angles and lines. The line of the main branch is echoed by the blurred ones in the background – this gives some depth and scale to the image.

    The bird is a nice size within the image, large enough to see the details, but not cramped within the frame and his crimson eye holds a lot of visual weight as well. If the bird was angled the other way it would be less pleasing as it would not be balanced the same way, as the X is symmetrical.

    yellow bird in a tree - 9 Ways to Create Balance in Your Photography
    #6 – RELATIONSHIP OF ELEMENTS

    Similar to #5 above, this takes the placement concept a step further. You need to consider the specific relationship between elements and how can you use that in composing your image.

    In this landscape shot below, it’s a pretty simple land/sea/sky shot – not really very interesting at all.  But the inclusion of the sign right next to the edge of the cliff changes everything. The bright red of the letters catches our attention (as it should) and even though the sign is small it has large impact.

    Had the sign not been so close to the edge, it may have been a less compelling image. In composing this, the Rule of Thirds was also used to provide scale and context with the cliff edge off to the right, showing that the cliff continued (it was actually a whole headland of several hundred meters with just this one sign).

    danger sign cliff warning - 9 Ways to Create Balance in Your Photography

    Below is a wide-angle landscape shot of some fossilized totara tree trunks at Curio Bay, The Catlins, NZ. Landscapes when taken with a wide angle often lose context if they don’t have a foreground element to anchor them.

    The person also helps tell more of the story, while providing a color pop of bright blue visual interest and weight against the sand and rock. His presence in the front of the frame balances out the large wider angle landscape behind him and gives scale to appreciate how big it is.

    man in a landscape image - 9 Ways to Create Balance in Your Photography

    #7 – SYMMETRY

    When done well and with thought, symmetry can be a useful tool. Putting your subject dead center in the frame can be a risk too. While a mirror image in a lake or puddle can be pretty, it can also be quite static and uninteresting. An odd situation where the image is perfectly balanced and yet it doesn’t actually work compositionally!

    Below, the autumn tree reflection is a mirror image but the angle at which it has been shot puts the focus on the landscape. So the reflection is not necessarily the point of the image. Instead, it is more of an added bonus. Also, the way the trees are arranged creates balance across the image, the two golden willows are rounded and slightly shadowed.

    They are counterbalanced by the taller golden poplar, with similarly toned grass behind, and the green of the reeds in the water. There is enough contrast in the image with the light and shadow elements to add depth and interest while the gold/blue color combination is an aesthetically pleasing one.  The reflection softens the colors and tones enough that they allow the actual landscape to take prominence.

    This image was specifically composed with all those things in mind.

    fall scene and reflection - 9 Ways to Create Balance in Your Photography

    #8 – DEPTH OF FIELD

    Does everything in your image have to be 100% sharp? My answer to that is no. You can use Depth of Field creatively, balancing the subject against the softer background, allowing the subject to be prominent and the strong focal element.

    Imagine the shot of the larch cones below if the aperture was more like f/11. If all the foliage and trees in the background were in focus then the cones would be lost against it. Portrait photographers use this concept to their advantage, shooting their subject in a similar way to get them to stand out from a sometimes messy or distracting background.

    pine cones on a tree - 9 Ways to Create Balance in Your Photography

    #9 – NEGATIVE SPACE

    Negative space is an interesting composition element that works for some shots. Remembering to keep it in the back of your mind for the rare occasion it might suit can be difficult. Also being brave enough to try a different approach than you normally use is challenging.

    When used carefully, negative space adds value to an image by providing a lot of empty space to create balance for a particular subject. It is often used successfully in travel photos, where brightly coloured walls or buildings offer a great canvas for a person to be posed against, often as they walk past.

    This gerbera shot has a lot of negative space on the left and underneath the flower. Because of the curving stem and the dynamic angle of the flower, this image has a lot of movement for the eye. The negative space offers a calming balance to that energy.

    pink gerbera - 9 Ways to Create Balance in Your Photography

    The smooth soft water of this long exposure offers some negative space to balance out the visual weight of the rocks and the busy sky. The light tones of the water also create balance with the darker tones of the sand.

    b/w beach scene - 9 Ways to Create Balance in Your Photography

    CONCLUSION

    Sometimes an image can feel just subtly off even though the subject might be good, the light is good and the composition seems to be alright. It is worth taking a look at those images with fresh eyes and considering the balance of the different elements discussed here. Perhaps you will begin to see some opportunities to compose your images in a different way?

    Composition often seems to be a never-ending quest to find the holy grail of elements.  Do you have perfect lighting? Is your subject awesome? Are they doing something cool or interesting? Are the colors fresh and vibrant? Is it exotic? Does it have a wow factor?

    Yet your image might have all of those things and still not seem quite right. So take a look at how the different elements relate to each other from a balance point of view.

    Maybe instead of trying to remember all the complicated rules of composition – let’s keep it much simpler and start with balance. Or maybe you want your work to be really edgy and challenging and you aim for the tension in a deliberately unbalanced work – that is also a viable creative choice too.

    But if you feel that your images lack a certain something, try looking at them from a balance point of view and see what you get. Like everything in photography, there is no one single right way to do it. Instead, there are many different ways, and hopefully one will resonate with you to help you learn something new.

    If you are someone who considers balance when composing your images, what other ways do you think about? This is merely a summary of the many possible options that I keep in mind when shooting. Please share any others I haven’t mentioned in the comment area below.

    The post 9 Ways to Create Balance in Your Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • Phottix announces larger LED panels with the Kali600

    Lighting brand Phottix has announced a new LED panel for videographers and stills photographers called the Kali600. Larger than the company’s hotshoe Nuada series, the Kali600 is designed for location and studio work and to be mounted on a stand.

    The panel has 600 LEDs and can produce light across a range of 3200-5600K while offering a maximum brightness of 3000Lux. With a pair of battery plates the panel can be run from two optional Sony NP-type batteries or directly via the mains using the supplied AC adapter. A set of barndoors and a diffuser are included, as is a wireless remote that can be used to control the brightness and color temperature of the output.

    The Phottix Kali600 costs $ 170 and is shipping straight away. For more information see the Phottix website.

    Press release

    Feel the power – Meet the Phottix Kali600 Video LED

    Following the success of the Phottix Nuada series LEDs, Phottix is announcing a new LED lighting line-up: the Phottix Kali.

    The new series will debut with the Kali600 model – a larger studio-style LED Panel for video and general studio and location photography.

    Features:

    • Excellent color rendering – CRI 95+
    • Digital Power Control: 10% – 100%
    • Digital Color Control: 3300K – 5600K
    • Uses 2 Sony-compatible batteries or AC Adapter

    The Phottix Kali600 will feature a maximum brightness of 3000Lux (36W). Being both mains and battery powered it can be used in the studio or on-location. The Kali600 offers power and color temperature control – via the panel as well as a wireless radio remote. Barndoors, white diffuser panel and AC Adapter are included.

    What’s included:

    • Kali600 LED Main Panel with Barndoors and Diffuser Panel
    • Remote Control Unit
    • AC adapter ( US & UK & AU & EU plug )
    • Printed User Manual

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • 6 Ways to Improve your Cityscape Photography

    Cityscape photography is becoming increasingly popular and can be a welcome change to capturing rolling hills and scenic vistas. Urban landscape environments can offer you, the photographer, attractive buildings, patterns and lines to capture stunning scenes and an alternative to the familiar nature shots found in the countryside.

    6 Ways to Improve your Cityscape Photography

    Here are 6 elements you will want to consider to improve your photographs of cities:

    1. Shoot at different times of the day

    Think about blue hour, golden hour, and daytime for your city images.

    As the sun goes down and darkness falls, cities come to life when buildings and architectural details become illuminated and can make for some spectacular image opportunities. However, a common mistake people make when doing cityscape photography is to capture images too late at night when the natural light has disappeared and the sky is completely black.

    6 Ways to Improve your Cityscape Photography

    Shanghai skyline at night.

    Total darkness is generally not the best time to photograph buildings as they will appear less attractive with little detail.

    If you intend to photograph in the evenings, I would recommend that you arrive at your location for sunset and wait for dusk to fall. You could shoot during blue hour, a period of twilight when the sun is at a significant depth below the horizon and when the sky takes on a predominantly blue shade.

    Although it is called the blue hour, it usually occurs for a window of around 20-30 minutes, depending on your location and the season.

    Golden hour is another good time for cityscape photography. During the early morning or late afternoon, you’ll have beautiful long shadows to work with, as well as soft golden light.

    6 Ways to Improve your Cityscape Photography

    Daytime shot of the same city.

    Alternatively, photographing during the day allows for a more interesting composition as scenes can be more crowded. Just add people in your frame that can make intriguing subjects combined with buildings.

    2. Use ambient light effectively

    If you capture the final elements of ambient light in the sky before darkness falls and combine it with the artificial light of the buildings, this will usually result in good photographs.

    Once the city lights come on there is usually a window of about an hour to capture pleasing cityscapes. Shooting scenes at this time will allow you to balance the sky with the artificial lights of the city.

    6 Ways to Improve your Cityscape Photography - blue hour bridge

    3. Consider color

    Look for patterns and blocks of color that may offset one another. Buildings may be painted in different colors that work well together, for example.

    The cool blue sky of the blue hour complements the warm, golden, amber hues of street and building lights perfectly. The harmony of an image is apparent when colorful tones come together, such as this image of Oxford at night.

    6 Ways to Improve your Cityscape Photography - Oxford at blur hour

    Also, the sun can create different colors as it strikes buildings and reflects off them.

    4. Consider composition

    It is best to try and exclude any distracting and unwanted objects from the frame such as trash bins, signs, and any unsightly buildings that will make your image less attractive. Re-compose your image until it’s free of clutter and you are happy with the way the image looks.

    6 Ways to Improve your Cityscape Photography - building at night

    Work with the light if you’re capturing cityscapes during the day. Usually, you will want to shoot with the sun lighting the buildings for the best results and to ensure everything in your view is illuminated.

    5. Experiment with exposure

    Cityscapes often provide a great opportunity to experiment with your exposure. You will discover that after sunset, as the light fades, you will be less able to hand hold your camera to capture your cityscape scene. Recording long exposures in cityscape photography will create motion and that feeling of movement is only possible by using a tripod.

    6 Ways to Improve your Cityscape Photography - London Tower Bridge

    As twilight unveils, you can capture the low ambient light by using slow shutter speeds to create mobility within your image. The stillness of buildings contrasting the movement of clouds or light trails from traffic, for example, make for an interesting image and can add drama to your composition.

    Using fast shutter speeds can help to freeze the motion of different objects in the scene. I recommend that you experiment with different shutter speeds to see what different moods this creates and see which style of image you like.

    6. Get creative

    Add some beauty to your shot by capturing close up objects such as bridges or signs with the cityscape in the background. You could even try photographing people and the cityscape to show the full setting you are photographing within.

    6 Ways to Improve your Cityscape Photography

    Don’t be afraid to get closer to your subject and focus on the action. I suggest that you play around with various angles to capture something truly unique and inspirational, one that you are proud of.

    Cityscape photography requires a great deal of practice and you most likely won’t walk away with award-winning cityscapes overnight. Keep shooting and with these tips, you will become more adept at capturing urban imagery you can be proud of.

    Now it’s your turn, please share your cityscape photography images and tips in the comments area below.

    The post 6 Ways to Improve your Cityscape Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • Canon patent application teases full-frame 58mm F1.4 ‘soft-focus’ lens

    An interesting new patent application from Canon details a series of potential lens designs with an adjustable soft-focus feature.

    Japanese patent application number 2018-97240 lays out the groundwork and schematics for four different full-frame camera lens designs that feature a dual-focus system: a 58mm F1.4, a 35m F1.8, a 105mm F2 and a 70-200mm F4.

    According to the patent application, the first focusing module would be used for the traditional purpose of focusing on the subject matter. The other module, however, isn’t for the sake of focusing, but to intentionally soften the image using spherical aberration.

    The patent application details two specific challenges designing such a lens: trying to focus the lens, which is a challenge to do when spherical aberration is present in the image, and having variable soft-focus, so you can add as much or as little spherical aberration as you see fit for the scene—something not possible with past soft-focus lenses.

    Below is the computer-translated text from the patent detailing how the soft-focus module would work:

    A second arrangement state by which said 1st focus group and said 2nd focus group are arranged so that a second aberration amount which will be in a focusing state in the aforementioned predetermined object distance, and is different from said first aberration amount may be generated.

    Regardless of whether or not one of these lens designs ever makes it to market, this isn’t the first time a soft-focus lens has been made. In 1935, Leitz created the Thambar 90mm F2.2, a classic Leica lens renowned for its dream-like aesthetic. In fact, Leica released a modernized M-mount version of the Thambar 90mm F2.2 late last year as well.

    As with all patents and patent applications, this design may never leave the metaphorical paper. But it’s interesting nonetheless.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • ‘Potato Camera’ project creates camera out of a potato – what did you expect them to do?

    It seems that there really is no limit to human ingenuity – at least at the lower end of the scale. Evidence: the Potato Camera.

    The folks at Corridor Crew have published a new project video showcasing the creation of a sorta-interchangeable lens camera features a large potato as the camera body, hollowed-out to accommodate a custom 3D-printed film chamber. The lens is essentially smashed into the front of the potato with the addition of some light-blocking material, and the film is cut into 9in / 22cm strips.

    We were somewhat surprised to see that it actually works. We were not at all surprised, on the other hand, to see that it does not work well.

    Via: Boing Boing

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Sample gallery: Sony FE 400mm F2.8 GM OSS

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    We first heard about Sony’s pro-level FE 400mm F2.8 GM OSS lens back in the winter. This past weekend we finally had the chance to put this impressive sports/wildlife lens to the test at a professional soccer match – read our first impressions. We even had the chance to toss on the Sony 1.4x teleconverter for some shots at an 560mm equiv. field of view. Have a look for yourself at the results.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Waiting to Photograph Sunrise – What to do Before the Sun Comes Up

    A beautiful sunrise is, hands down, one of the best photography subjects and most beloved by photography viewers and photographers alike. They differ from sunset in the amount of pre-planning that aids a successful shoot. It’s no wonder that sunsets are easier to prepare for, as it is light out and you’re awake. So what do you need to do to photography sunrise?

    Waiting to Photograph Sunrise – What to do Before the Sun Comes Up - dramatic sky

    It’s a good idea to break down the pre-planning for a sunset shoot into three separate task groups:

    • The day before you shoot
    • The night before your shoot
    • Day of the shoot

    The Day Before

    Planning for a sunrise shoot starts well before the sun goes down the day before. You can’t change the weather, but providence favors the prepared soul.

    Seattle at sunrise - Waiting to Photograph Sunrise

    Seattle and Mount Rainier Before The Sun Comes Up

    Scout

    The most important part of planning a sunrise shoot is pre-visualization. This is the act of looking at a scene and imagining it at the time of sunrise. There are a number of apps to help with pre-visualization, such as The Photographer’s Ephemeris and LightTrac. They can point directly to where the sun will rise and help you decide camera angles and compositions.

    These apps often let you mark your favorite locations to help you find them quickly the next day. So don’t guess! Go, scout.

    Talk to Locals

    If you are in a new location, ask around about great locations for sunrise. You don’t have to state you are a photographer, you can be just another tourist (even if you are in a town next door). Restaurants and bars are a good bet for easy places to start a conversation. You might be amazed at how easy it is to get people talking; everyone enjoys a nice sunrise.

    Waiting to Photograph Sunrise - planning tips

    Front side and back side of Delicate Arch in Utah

    Some other local options and organizations to try:

    • Camera clubs
    • Audubon Society or birding groups
    • Outdoor gear and apparel stores
    • The local Chamber of Commerce

    Other Odds and Ends

    I suggest taking care of other odds and ends the day before, like packing a snack for the morning. If you’re not used to getting up before the sun, you’re going to be fairly hungry by the time you’re done shooting.

    Also, fill your gas tank the day before if you are going to be driving. Anything you can do to reduce the odds of something simple going wrong will help you have a successful photo shoot.

    prayer flags Nepal - Waiting to Photograph Sunrise

    Prayer flags before Ama Dablam in the Himalayas of Nepal

    The Night Before

    Charge Batteries

    More than once I have hit the field with only 25% battery power because my Canon doesn’t shut off the GPS when the camera powers down. It’s frustrating to have to ration something that can easily be topped off the night before. It’s a good habit to get into charging all your batteries ahead of time.

    Waiting to Photograph Sunrise - sunrise in Hawaii from a cruise ship

    Opportune sunrise over Maui, Hawaii on UnCruise Endeavour.

    Clean your gear and wipe your cards

    It’s the little things that matter most. Who hasn’t taken a few choice photos only to find dust spots or streaks that need to be sometimes painfully removed in post-processing? Take care of those things the night before. Clean your sensor, clean your gear and make sure it is all working perfectly.

    Also, organize your cards and make sure you have fresh, empty memory cards before heading to bed. If you’re on a trip of multiple days, ensure your cards are backed up or at least have enough space available for your anticipated shoot the next morning.

    Remember, sunrise scenes are aided by bracketing your images, so they tend to require more space than normal.

    Waiting to Photograph Sunrise - colorful sunrise shot

    Organize

    Put on a blindfold or close your eyes right now and point to where everything is in your camera bag. Can you do it? Do you know where your spare batteries and cards are? Your second lens or the Allen wrench you need to adjust your tripod? What about your filters?

    Being well organized and knowing your bag front to back by touch is valuable when the sun hasn’t yet risen. Depending on your latitude and cloud cover, it may be quite dark until just before sunrise so it is important to not be fumbling with gear or hunting for your flashlight.

    Pack it all up the night before and set your bag by the door, ready to go in the morning without another thought.

    Waiting to Photograph Sunrise - sand dunes at sunrise

    Dunes at sunrise

    The Day of Your Shoot

    Arrive Early

    I can’t stress this enough.

    ARRIVE EARLY!

    Often the best show of colors comes before the sun breaches the horizon if you have decent cloud cover. Arriving 30 minutes before sunrise might mean you miss this colorful show or are scrambling to get set up and shoot before the colors are dashed.

    My rule of thumb is to show up an hour before the actual sunrise time. Maybe you can arrive a little later than that in places with deep valleys, like the Himalayas. The reverse is also true if you are on a mountaintop. With a little time on your hands, you can let your eyes adjust to the growing light and look for opportunities and compositions you might have missed on the previous day’s scouting mission.

    Waiting to Photograph Sunrise -Taj Mahal at sunrise

    Good timing at the Taj Mahal, Agra, India

    Setting Up

    Tripods are a big help for sunrise shoots and it’s best to set up early. Getting your camera out and mounted on a tripod can also help it acclimate in colder weather. Plus getting set up before the sun arrives gives you time for last minute scouting of the area.

    If the weather is cold, it’s also a good time to bring out any filters you may need, such as graduated neutral density filters. I prefer to keep filters in a nice wallet, like the Tiffen Belt Holder so they stay secure and clean while acclimating.

    Waiting to Photograph Sunrise - canyon in Utah at sunrise

    Canyonlands National Park as seen from Dead Horse Point State Park, Utah

    The Shoot

    We have a number of excellent articles here on Digital Photography School to help you with shooting sunrises. Here are some of my favorites:

    • 8 Simple Guidelines for Capturing Spectacular Sunrise and Sunset Images
    • How to Shoot Stunning Photos at Sunrise and Sunset
    • 5 Reasons Why Your Sunrise or Sunset Photos Don’t Look So Stunning
    Waiting to Photograph Sunrise - ferry in Washington state at sunrise

    Washington State Ferry Chelan in front of Mt. Baker, Washington

    Editing Those Wonderful Shots

    DPS also has many beneficial articles on processing your sunrise photos (the same techniques are used for sunrise and sunset).

    • Lightroom Workflow – from Setup to Finished Sunrise Photo
    • How I Shot And Edited It – Mesa Arch At Sunrise
    • 4 Tips for Post-Processing Images on the Road
    Waiting to Photograph Sunrise - mountains in Nepal

    Spindrift catching the morning’s rays on the Himalayas, Lobuche, Nepal

    Conclusion

    Being prepared and planning ahead is a great way to enjoy sunrise photography without the rush. Take the time to scout and plan ahead by having your gear ready. The tips listed here will help you take your sunrise photography from accidental to purposefully beautiful art.

    The post Waiting to Photograph Sunrise – What to do Before the Sun Comes Up appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • Samsung’s ISOCELL Plus promises better color accuracy and low light performance

    Samsung’s ISOCELL smartphone image sensor technology was introduced in 2013. It uses physical barriers between neighboring pixels to reduce color crosstalk and expand the capability to capture light, compared to conventional backside-illuminated (BSI) image sensors.

    Now the Korean company has launched ‘ISOCELL Plus’ which has been developed in cooperation with FujiFilm. It replaces the metal grid at the front of the pixels with a new ‘mystery’ material, providing even better separation between pixels.

    This material reduces reflections and light absorption by the barriers between pixels, leading to increased light sensitivity of up to 15% and better color fidelity. According to Samsung the technology allows for the design of sensors with 0.8µm and smaller-sized pixels without a loss in performance. This is 1/3rd the size of the pixels in a typical 1″-type sensor and should allow smartphone sensors with a resolution of 20MP and higher.

    “We value our strategic relationship with Samsung and would like to congratulate on the completion of the ISOCELL Plus development,” said Naoto Yanagihara, corporate vice president of Fujifilm. “This development is a remarkable milestone for us as it marks the first commercialization of our new material. Through continuous cooperation with Samsung, we anticipate to bring more meaningful innovation to mobile cameras.”

    In combination with other new mobile imaging technologies, such as multi-frame stacking and multi-sensor camera modules, ISOCELL Plus should allow for the design of smartphone cameras with even better low light performance than we’re seeing in current models.

    Samsung will be showcasing the new sensors at Mobile World Congress Shanghai come end of June, but for now there is no word on when to expect the new technology in a production smartphone.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Why It’s a Great Idea to Get Your Photo Printed on Large-Scale Canvas

    Let’s face it, one of the true joys of a professional photographer is to see the fruits of their labor displayed in a physical format, preferably as a large-scale photo print. It just feels like the proper way these photos should be exhibited, the form in which they reach their true potential. With this in mind, I’m here to talk Continue Reading

    The post Why It’s a Great Idea to Get Your Photo Printed on Large-Scale Canvas appeared first on Photodoto.


    Photodoto

  • Researchers develop method for revealing images on degraded daguerreotypes

    Researchers at Western University in Canada have developed a method for restoring damaged daguerreotypes, including plates so degraded that no portion of the original image remains discernible to the eye. The method, the university explains, involves using rapid-scanning micro-X-ray fluorescence imaging to analyze the silver-coated plate and identify the mercury element used to develop it.

    “Mercury is the major element that contributes to the imagery captured in these photographs. Even though the surface is tarnished, those image particles remain intact,” explained study co-author Tsun-Kong (TK) Sham. “By looking at the mercury, we can retrieve the image in great detail.”

    Whereas a human hair is around 75 microns thick, the X-ray beam used in this method is as small as 10 x 10 microns, resulting in about 8 hours of scanning time per daguerreotype plate. This method can be used by art conservators to reveal a daguerreotype’s image when cleaning the degraded plate is not possible.

    Via: TechCrunch

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)