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  • 2016 Roundup: Interchangeable Lens Cameras $500-900

    The $ 500-900 category (based roughly on US MSRP) features quite a few strong offerings, some of which should satisfy first-time camera buyers with easy-to-use interfaces and point-and-shoot style functionality. Others are aimed more at seasoned-enthusiasts, offering direct manual controls and high-end features.

    At this price point, all of the cameras use either Four Thirds or larger APS-C-sized sensors and all can shoot Raw. And while a larger sensor can mean the potential for better image quality and more control over depth-of-field, the difference in size between APS-C and Four Thirds is not enormous. As such, small differences notwithstanding, the vast majority of cameras in this roundup have what we would consider to be very good image quality.

    All of the cameras in this selection are reasonably small in size (compared to pricier ILCs), but the number and arrangement of control points, grip size, build quality and weight all vary quite a bit. As do the inclusion of features like like 4K video capture and in-body image stabilization.

    Let’s take a look at the currently available interchangeable lens cameras that fall into the $ 500-900 price range (give or take).

    • Canon EOS M3
    • Canon EOS Rebel T6i
    • Fujifilm X-E2S
    • Fujifilm X-T10
    • Nikon D5500
    • Olympus OM-D E-M10 II
    • Panasonic Lumix DMC-GX85
    • Pentax K-70
    • Sony Alpha a6000

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Photographer’s Dress Code – What to Wear to a Photo Shoot

    As a budding photographer, one of the biggest questions that will eventually come to mind is, “What should I wear to a photo shoot? Is there a photographer’s dress code?” The answer varies widely depending on the type of photo shoot you’re conducting, the specific client you’re working with, your overall style and brand as a photographer, and the culture of the region where you’re shooting.

    A portrait photographer, for example, may have more flexibility in how he or she dresses compared to a corporate event photographer. Similarly, a photographer shooting in the West Coast of America will likely be able to dress more casually than an East Coast photographer. All variations aside, here are some general photographer dress code guidelines to start off with.

    Michael Broad

    By Michael Broad

    1. Invest in a solid, comfortable pair of shoes

    Regardless of what kind of photo shoot you’ll be conducting, start with shoes. Consider that you’ll likely be standing for hours on end, so comfort and ergonomics are key. Also, think about the terrain you might encounter during your shoot, and the seasonal weather. Will there be grassy fields, sandy shores, or other outdoor elements you might be venturing into to get unique angles? If so, shoes that can take a light beating and still look good will be of utmost importance.

    As a female photographer who shoots mainly for corporate clients, I generally opt for black leather flats during the warm season, black leather boots for colder weather, or dressy black leather sneakers for extra long shoots with outdoor elements. In any case, it’s generally a good idea to stay away from sandals, high heels, and flip flops.

    Laura Thorne

    By Laura Thorne

    2. Cover up

    As a creative photographer in constant search of creative angles, consider the possible physical maneuvers such as bending, stooping, and squatting that you might be pulling off during a shoot. Dress accordingly, making sure to wear an outfit that will allow you to be physically flexible without giving your clients an eyeful, or worse yet, causing a wardrobe malfunction. Ladies, this means avoiding low-cut tops, ultra short skirts and dresses, and skimpy outfits. At the very least, bring a blazer or sweater to cover up. Gentlemen, don’t forget a belt and a longer shirt that can be tucked in.

    3. Dress in all black

    This is a contestable point, as it can also be argued that dressing according to your brand is a better strategy. However, it’s a general rule of thumb that wearing all black is best for being as invisible as possible at a photo shoot. That way you won’t stand out and take attention away from the main photo subject. Not to mention, dressing in all black makes you look more official, like a staff member which can potentially be helpful in navigating around a venue.

    Personally, I opt for the all-black rule for all of my photo shoots, simply because it’s one less thing to worry about when I have a pre-assembled uniform to fall back on. For me, this uniform consists of mixing and matching from the following selection; one pair of black skinny jeans, one pair of black slacks, a black leather belt, several button-down black blouses, several black polo shirts, and a black blazer. Whenever possible, I also try to buy my black clothing in lightweight, moisture resistant fabrics rather than cotton, to avoid sweat absorption.

    what-to-wear-as-a-photographer-01

    4. Add a personal touch

    Some photographers might contest the above point of dressing in all black with the argument that it’s important to dress according to your brand. This is something I definitely believe in as well, but having brand elements infused in your style of dress can also be done while still wearing all black. As an example, I always make sure to wear a few pieces of statement jewelry to accent my outfit and also serve as a conversation starter. I have a couple pairs of unique earrings, necklaces, and watches that almost always attract comments or questions, but they are also subtle in size so they don’t stand out too much.

    Another idea is to custom order black clothing that has your logo on it, such as a polo shirt with a subtle branding element. A photography colleague of mine has done this with huge success as it further reinforces his brand, while also making him look and appear more official at photo shoots.

    what-to-wear-as-a-photographer-01

    5. When in doubt, ask

    If you’re truly stumped on what to wear to a photo shoot, ask your client if they have any preferences. This is likely less important if you’re doing an intimate portrait session, but for event photographers, in particular, it never hurts to ask the client. I once had a corporate photography client who forgot to send over their two-page document detailing their dress code for photographers, which I would never have received had I not asked. At the very least, it’s important to find out if the dress code for your shoot is formal, semi-formal, or casual, and what exactly those terms mean to the client.

    Jpellgen

    By jpellgen

    Over to you

    To some photographers, what you wear to a photo shoot may not seem like a big deal. But I firmly believe how you dress is a reflection of your brand, so considering every element of your outfit is crucial.

    What do you wear when you’re conducting photo shoots? Let me know in the comments below!

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    The post Photographer’s Dress Code – What to Wear to a Photo Shoot by Suzi Pratt appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • Excavated Sanctuaries: Building Beneath a Protected Valley in Jordan

    [ By WebUrbanist in Architecture & Houses & Residential. ]

    underground-architecture

    Preserving the natural beauty of a UNESCO-protected valley in the Jordanian desert, this underground architectural complex is designed burrow and branch out beneath the surface.

    underground-desert-complex

    underground-open-space

    This conceptual proposal by Rasem Kamal of Oppenheim Architecture features nearly 2,000,000-square-foot network of spaces containing a train station, museum and hotel. The idea aims to bring services to the area with minimal disruption to the natural beauty of the sand and sandstone of the Wadi Rum. In turn, these additions would set the stage for a residential development.

    underground-in-jordan

    underground-skylight

    The so-called Excavated Sanctuaries bring in natural light from above via limited openings while using the thermal mass of the desert to regulate interior temperatures below ground. Inspired by the nests and warrens of ants and other subsurface creatures, the layouts are at once complex but organized, buildings semi-autonomous but interconnected. The renderings have a Dali-esque quality, highlighting the surreal as well as the serene beauty of simple architecture in a desert setting.

    underground-swimming-pool

    underground-from-above

    Aside from its contextual response, there is a deeper thesis here as well: good architecture does not have to stand out – at times, it is called upon to blend in or be invisible.

    underground-design-details

    underground-section

    “Lately, a great many prominent architectural practices have been focusing on developing dynamic forms, new building materials, sophisticated details and tectonics as well, while only the minority of these contribute to their internal spaces,” explains Kamal.

    underground-buildings

    “Consequently, this thesis aimed to flip the relationship between the explicit and implicit, by diminishing the power of external form along with exploiting all the previous efforts that were used for it to subtract spaces where we will live, experience and enjoy.”

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    [ By WebUrbanist in Architecture & Houses & Residential. ]

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  • Stark contrast: how your camera copes with dynamic range capture

    Managing dynamic range is challenging. There are few things more disappointing than looking through the viewfinder of a DSLR at a colorful, vibrant scene, hitting the shutter then glancing at the rear screen only to see a JPEG image with clipped highlights, crushed blacks, or both.

    Dynamic range limitations can catch you out at the most unexpected moments. In this instance, the yellow leaf is catching the light, clipping the green channel and meaning that its color is misrepresented.

    There are two challenges that the camera faces: picking a tone curve that can include a wide range of the tones in the final image and choosing an exposure that captures this wide range of tones. As you might expect, all in-camera DR modes aim to address one or both of these issues.

    The first challenge comes because cameras tend to use a single, fixed JPEG tone curve designed to make most images look attractively punchy when they’re viewed on the relatively low dynamic range of most monitors or prints. High contrast scenes can extend beyond the range of tones squeezed into these images, which results in the darker tones in your image crushed to black and your highlights being clipped, if you try to expose the mid tones of your image correctly.

    Much of the problem is caused by the camera’s tone curve: a system that maps the brightness of tones captured in the Raw file to the brightness levels used in the final image.*1

    Why don’t camera makers just use a lower-contrast tone curves? Because, although a flatter tone curve would make it easier to include the extra tones in high-contrast scenes, they’d leave the rest of your images looking drab and flat.

    The second challenge comes from from the tension between choosing a short/dark exposure to retain highlight information and a long/bright exposure to capture the most light to keep noise levels low.

    With time, patience and a relatively modern camera it’s possible to bracket a few shots to ensure you capture a Raw file with the highlights you want preserved, which you can then carefully process to pull the detail out of the shadows – effectively creating a tone curve customized to that specific image.

    DR compression modes

    But not every photographer has the time, knowledge or the inclination to do this. So most manufacturers include some sort of mode to capture and compress the wide dynamic range of high contrast scenes into attractive images.

    There are two main methods of doing this. One is to use a different tone curve to brighten up dark tones in the scene, and prevent blacks clipping so readily in high contrast scenes. The other is to capture or retain more highlight information and use a tone curve that incorporates these additional highlight tones.

    The best solutions do a bit of both.

    Method 1: Adaptive tone curves

    Canon Auto Lighting Optimizer Nikon Active D-Lighting
    Olympus Auto Gradation Pentax Shadow Adjustment
    Sony Dynamic Range Optimizer Panasonic iDynamic

    Adaptive tone curves are used to expand the range of tones in an image beyond the ones that a standard tone curve would include. They do this by selectively brightening up what would otherwise be the shadow and deep shadow regions of the image.

    Many of these are based on the work of a company called Apical, whose algorithm increases the breadth of tones in the image (lowering overall contrast) by analysing each part of the image and brightening the shadows while working to preserve local contrast, so the overall image doesn’t look flat.

    To demonstrate how this works, we’re going to use the tone flow diagrams we used in our articles about noise sources. These show the effect of changes in exposure, amplification and tone curve between the scene and the final image. Each element that changes is highlighted in red on the right-hand side of the diagram as you roll your mouse over the different states.

    Default Exposure


    Default Exposure with adaptive tone curve


    Because the darker tones in an image are made up from less light, their signal-to-noise ratios are worse: they look noisier. Brightening them up makes it easier to see this noise, so DR compression modes of this type generally work best on larger sensor cameras and exposures that capture enough light to keep the quality high.

    Other than revealing a little more noise in the shadows, adaptive tone curves themselves only affect the JPEG, not the Raw – they are just selectively applying a different tone curve (or, better still, a localized, context-specific tone response) to incorporate or emphasize more of the tones your camera captured.

    Method 2: Capturing or retaining more highlight information

    Canon Highlight Tone Priority Fujifilm Dynamic Range
    Pentax Highlight Adjustment Ricoh Dynamic Range Correction

    The other type of DR Compression method involves trying to capture a different set of tones, which usually means changing the exposure. Or, at least, changing which tones are captured and which are retained in the Raw file. This does change the Raw file.

    The most basic of these systems change the exposure/amplification relationship of the camera. To understand what this means, it’s important to understand that final image brightness is made up of four components:

    • Illumination level of the scene
    • Exposure (Shutter speed and aperture)
    • Hardware amplification
    • Image tone curve (either in the camera or when processing the Raw file)

    The ISO standard allows any combination hardware and software (tone curve) amplification, so long as the scene illumination and exposure give you the expected JPEG brightness*2. This means that there’s no fixed relationship between exposure, hardware amplification and final image brightness.

    So, for instance, the camera can intentionally use a lower-than-usual level of amplification with your exposure so that highlight detail isn’t amplified beyond clipping, then use a different tone curve that retains these highlights. Such a tone curve would also pull its mid tones from deeper down the Raw file than in standard mode.*3

    Default Exposure


    DR Mode (Default Exposure –1EV with flatter tone curve to retain highlights)


    The dead give away that your camera is doing this is a jump in the minimum available ISO when you engage DR mode. Because the base ISO setting is already using the lowest level of amplification, you can’t have a lowered amplification/exposure relationship until you use a shorter exposure (higher ISO).

    This pattern becomes more obvious if you look at the Fujifilm ‘Dynamic Range’ system, which, with its three DR settings (DR100, DR200 and DR400) offers three*4 distinct balances of exposure and amplification. This table shows a simplification of the amplification level being applied in the different DRng modes at each available ISO setting:

      DR100 DR200 DR400

    ISO 200
    exposure

    1X

    ISO 400
    exposure

    2X 1X
    ISO 800
    exposure
    4X 2X 1X
    ISO 1600
    exposure
    8X 4X 2X
    This table shows a simplification of the amplification level being applied at each DR mode and ISO setting.

    Using this method the DR modes do result in different Raw files. In the example above, the two files have different exposures, so the Raw data is different. In the example below, where both shots have the same exposure, the DR200 shot has been amplified less than the DR100 shot, so contains more highlight information.*5

    ISO 400  DR100 (Note the extra highlights captured with the reduced exposure are clipped by the 2X amplification)


    ISO 400 DR200 (Same exposure but less amplification. A revised tone curve incorporates the extra highlight detail)


    With modern sensors that add very little read noise to their images, there’s little or no noise cost to using lower amplification levels and then using a tone curve to make up for it. The only noise differences occur if you’re shooting in bright light and you choose to switch from using DR100 mode at base ISO to DR200 mode and have to use an ISO 400 exposure. In this instance it’s the shorter exposure that’s adding the noise, not the different way of using the sensor.

    Adaptive exposure and tone curve

    The final method is essentially a combination of the two techniques: reduced exposure/amplification and an adaptive tone curve.

    Panasonic’s iDynamic and Olympus’ Auto Gradation modes will both reduce exposure by a 1/3EV or so to capture some additional highlights, then use an adaptive tone curve to brighten the shadows and as well as adding highlights. But it’s probably Nikon’s Active D-Lighting system that does the best job of this. It combines up to a 1EV exposure reduction with an adaptive tone curve to give well balanced JPEGs even in high contrast situations.

    Short of providing the tools that would allow photographers to reliably expose to the right, these DR compression modes provide a really useful means of accessing the impressive capabilities of modern sensors, whether you know how they work or not.


    Footnotes

    *1 Technically it’s actually a combination of a gamma curve that converts the Raw file’s linear brightness response into sometime more closely matching the human eye’s response, to make better use of the file’s bit depth plus the effect of the tone curve added to make the image look more punchy.

    *2 Strictly speaking it no longer even guarantees this: the REI section of the standard only requires that the camera gives what the manufacturer believes to be an appropriate image brightness.

    *3 To an extent, this is what many manufacturers already do in their standard JPEGs: use lower amplification and a more highlight-weighted tone curve than historically required, to capture and retain more highlight information. This creates a discrepancy between the ISO rating and the result of Raw saturation testing – as conducted by DxOMark.

    *4 You could argue that Fujifilm actually offers four levels of exposure/amplification: their camera’s extended ‘ISO 100’ mode is based on the same amplification as DR100’s ISO 200 mode, but with less highlight capture. In many respects it’s a DR50 mode.

    *5 Even though the DR200 and DR100 images have received different amounts of amplification, and hence have different Raw files, the use of different tone curves for each DR mode means that the JPEGs appear with the same parts of the scene rendered as middle gray. As such they’re both considered to have been shot at the same ISO.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Field Test: Wedding Photography with the Fujifilm X-T2

    When it comes to special occasions, weddings are about as special as it gets. Special for the couple getting married, of course, but also for their families and guests. And from candid portraits to group shots, to simple details and private moments, weddings provide endless opportunities for creative photography.

    For this field test, we’ve brought the Fujifilm X-T2 to Guemes Island to shoot the wedding of our friends Tim and Erin, with DPReview’s Editorial Manager and professional portrait and wedding photographer Wenmei Hill.


    This is sponsored content, created in partnership with Fujifilm. What does this mean?

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Next level: iPhone 7 Plus camera review

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    Judging by design, screen size and resolution, the new iPhone 7 Plus is nothing new. While its major specs are nearly identical to the iPhone 6s Plus, it’s in the camera department where a lot of innovation has happened. Next to the standard 28mm equivalent lens there is a second 56mm module to enable optical zooming. Combined with digital zoom, you can drag the zoom slider in the camera app up to a 10x magnification. 

    At F1.8 the six-element lens in the wide-angle camera comes with a faster aperture than the 6s Plus and optical image stabilization is on board as well. The 56mm ‘tele’-lens has to make do without stabilization though, and uses a slower F2.8 aperture. A bokeh-simulation mode, similar to what we’ve seen on the HTC One M8 and Huawei P9 before is also made possible by the dual-camera setup. Other new camera features include a quad-LED true-tone flash and flicker-sensor. With iOS 10 and certain third-party camera apps the new iPhone can now finally save Raw files as well.

    As you can see, there are a lot of new camera features to explore on the new iPhone 7 Plus and we have done exactly that. Read our full review to see how we got on. 

    Key Photographic / Video Specifications

    • Dual 12MP sensors
    • 28/56 mm equivalent focal length
    • F1.8/2.8 aperture
    • On-sensor phase detection
    • Quad-LED flash
    • DNG Raw capture and manual control with 3rd party apps
    • 4K video at 30 fps
    • 720p/240 and 1080p/120fps slow-motion video
    • 7MP front camera with F2.2 aperture and 32mm equivalent focal length

    Other Specifications

    • 5.5-inch 1080p IPS screen with taptic feedback
    • Apple A10 Fusion chipset
    • 3GB RAM
    • 32/128/256GB storage
    • 2,900mAh battery
    • Fingerprint reader
    • Stereo speakers

    DPReview smartphone reviews are written with the needs of photographers in mind. We focus on camera features, performance, and image quality.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • How to Give Your Landscape Photos Extra Punch in One Easy Step

    Have you ever felt that your landscape photography is missing a little punch? You look at other photographers’ images and their colours have a very appealing amount of contrast. But no matter how much you play around with HSL (Hue, Saturation, Luminance), Contrast, Vibrance or Saturation, your colours just don’t get the same depth and contrast and end up looking fake and oversaturated.

    The quality of the lens being used affects color greatly (more expensive lenses generally give a much better colour contrast than entry-level lenses). But there is a step that you can do when post-processing your recent landscape photos to give the colours an extra little bit of punch and contrast and more importantly, keep them from looking overcooked.

    before-after

    Color space

    You may be aware of a term Colour space which essentially determines how devices represent colour. The two most common colour spaces are Adobe RGB and sRGB. Adobe sRGB is used on the web and for many smart devices. Adobe RGB is a little bigger than sRGB and can show more colors. However, these are not the only colour spaces around. Lightroom, for example, uses one of the largest (able to produce a larger amount of colours) called ProPhoto RGB.

    But enough about colour spaces! I can already see your eyes glazing over, mine are already as I type this. But knowing that there are different colour spaces can be helpful. Knowing exactly how they work isn’t necessarily all that important.

    Convert to Lab Color

    The colour space that you’ll want to recognize is LAB Color. How does it work? Doesn’t really matter. But how can you use it give your images that extra punch? In this article, I’ll explain how a very simple step (and I mean simple!) that will help give your images that extra punch using the LAB colour space in Photoshop.

    Okay, so first up you’re going to want to bring your image into Photoshop. Before you do this, you may need to develop the image a little in Adobe Camera Raw or Lightroom. Fix up any exposure issues, correct the white balance, etc.

    This is the image that I’ll use as an example.

    before

    This image has had very little done to it prior to Photoshop. A simple crop, general contrast and exposure correction were all that was applied.

    Now that your images is open in Photoshop, the very first thing you need to do is convert it from Adobe RGB or sRGB (depending on what you have set as the working colour space in Photoshop) to LAB Color.

    To do this, go to: Image > Mode > Lab Color.

    The tick next to RGB Color means that Adobe RGB is currently being used.

    The tick next to RGB Color means that Adobe RGB is currently being used.

    Now Photoshop is using LAB instead. You won’t notice a change at all at this step because nothing has changed on your end. All you have simply done is tell Photoshop which method to use to display colours.

    Add a Curves Adjustment Layer

    With your image in LAB Color, the next step is to create a Curves Adjustment Layer. Once this layer has been created, you should see something like this:

    lab-curves1

    Generally, this doesn’t look any different to any other Curves Adjustment Layer except for one thing. Instead of having RGB in the drop down menu, you will see Lightness.

    With this adjustment layer created, the next step is to click on the Lightness drop down menu. This brings up Lightness, A, B; which is what LAB is short for!

    lab-curves

    Adjust Channel A

    Now, you need to select the A-channel. With the A-channel selected, bring in the shadows anchor point at the bottom-left corner toward the bottom-centre. You will notice the Input numbers increasing from -128. As a starting point, I like to bring this value to -100. Now, find the highlight anchor point (top-right) and bring that toward the top-centre by the same value; for -100 set it to 100.

    Notice the anchor points have moved toward the centre equally?

    Notice the anchor points have moved toward the centre equally?

    You’ll notice strange things happening to your colours as you slide the anchor points along. Don’t panic – this is supposed to happen.

    Adjust Channel B

    Now do the same steps by the same values for both shadows and highlights for the B-channel.

    Same steps have been done for Channel B

    Same steps have been done for Channel B

    NOTE: make sure your Output value remains at -128 for the shadows and 127 for the highlights. If these numbers are altered it means that the anchor point is being lifted from the bottom for shadows and dropped from the top for highlights. You just want to drag the sliders along horizontally (not move them up or down).

    With both A and B channels having been done now, the colour and colour contrast of your image should look different from the original. This is how my original image looks after these steps.

    This is after setting A/B shadows to -100 and highlights to 100.

    This is after setting A/B shadows to -100 and highlights to 100.

    Fine tuning

    For me, that is looking a little overdone. But no problem! To change this, all you have to do is reduce the amount you moved the anchor points in both A and B channels. I generally find going by increments of 10 is most helpful.
    If you feel your image needs more punch, then you will want to bring the anchor points closer to the centre. Just remember to keep each value across the shadow/highlight, A/B channels the same.

    After increasing the numbers in my images, I felt that -110/110 in A/B worked the best (see below).

    after-110

    Convert back to RBG

    Once you are happy with how your image looks, it’s time to change it back to RGB. To change your image from LAB to RGB, go to: Image > Mode > RGB color.

    change-to-rgb

    You’ll be alerted that changing modes will discard adjustment layers, but that is fine. Select OK and you’ll be brought back into RGB. You’ll notice that the Curves Adjustment layer is now gone and that your image is now the background layer. However, the effect on the colours should remain. Now you’re free to go about editing the photo as much as you like.

    So that’s a very simple technique to add more colour punch in your images. Just remember these two points:

    • This is something that you should do at the beginning of editing your image in Photoshop and not the end as you will lose all your adjustment layers when changing modes.
    • Remember to alter the anchors points from A/B b by the same value to eliminate strange things happening to your colours.

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    The post How to Give Your Landscape Photos Extra Punch in One Easy Step by Daniel Smith appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • Overview of the Samyang 12mm F2.8 ED AS NCS Fisheye Lens

    There is nothing quite like seeing the world through a fisheye lens. The way it bends straight lines and creates curves where there were none. You get to see more of the world through it than you can with your own eyes, well that is unless you turn your head. Recently I was loaned the Samyang 12mm F2.8 ED AS NCS Fisheye lens to play with and I have been having a lot of fun seeing what it can do.

    leannecole-samyang-12mm-fisheye-30

    Samyang 12mm F2.8 ED AS NCS Fisheye lens

    Price out this lens on Amazon and B&H Photo.

    Fisheye lenses have been around for a long time. But for most of us, they have not been something that we thought would be worth spending all that money on. However, the 12mm fisheye from Samyang is affordable and can give your photography a new look.

    How wide is it?

    There is nothing like using a wide angle for the first time and having objects fit into your frame like never before. This lens is very much like that. The first reaction most people have when they look through the viewfinder for the first time is “wow”. It is incredible what you can fit into it.

    You get an 180-degree view with it. It really does fill the frame with all that you can see, including your periphery vision. While this is a good thing, there is also a downside. You can end up with unwanted distractions in the image. If you point the lens down too far you may end up with your feet in the image. Or if your camera bag on the ground is not behind you, it too will be included. Going out with friends to take photos means constantly asking them to step back behind you. If they are good friends, they won’t mind.

    leannecole-samyang-12mm-fisheye-38

    Melbourne from across the river.

    This lens won’t break the bank

    When you consider how much other lenses with an f/2.8 aperture cost, you would think this one would also be very expensive, a thousand bucks or so. But it retails for around USD$ 500 (less if you have a mirrorless system) so it makes it a lot more affordable than the top brand fisheye lenses. It is a good quality lens and is a great alternative for those that can’t afford the pricier top brand ones.

    leannecole-samyang-12mm-fisheye-33

    One of the rides at the Royal Melbourne Show

    This lens is fun!

    Without a doubt, this is a fun lens. It can have real uses, but in the end, I dare anyone to put the lens on their camera and not have a great time seeing what they can get with it. It is amazing to watch how the world is transformed through it.

    I was first loaned the lens one day while in the city and I wouldn’t take it off my camera. I really enjoyed seeing what it could do and how much I could see with it. It was a challenge to see how I can make the world make sense with it. In the end you have to let that go and just take photos.

    leannecole-samyang-12mm-fisheye-32

    One of the rides at the Royal Melbourne Show.

    It is small

    For a fisheye, it is very small which is great because it means it’s easy to carry around with you. You would expect a fisheye to be a large bulky lens with big bulbous glass on the front. The Samyang fisheye is a lot smaller and not much bigger than a normal 50mm lens. Don’t let the size fool you, as it still takes a great image.

    Full frame lens

    Surprisingly for the cost, it is a lens for a full frame camera. It seems that many lenses for these are usually a lot more expensive. You are going to get much wider images with the full frame, and if you put the lens on a cropped sensor that aspect will suffer and you won’t get as wide an angle (about like an 18mm), though you should still get the fisheye effect.

    First time mounting the lens

    When you first put the lens on your camera you can get some strange numbers coming up on your camera display. If that happens you need to change the aperture ring on the lens. Turn it all the way around until you can see the aperture on your camera.

    leannecole-samyang-12mm-fisheye-35

    Looking at the city through the Seafarers Bridge.

    It distorts the world around

    For many the distortions may be too much and maybe the lens won’t be for them. The first time I posted a few photos I took with it, some people pointed out that I could get rid of the weird curves. My first thought was why would I, isn’t that the reason for using a fisheye in the first place?

    It is a manual focus lens

    For many people, the manual focusing for the lens is a negative. We have gotten used to autofocus, and having to go back to do it manually again can seem too hard. However, it is amazing how quickly you can adapt to it. The more you do it the easier it really does get. I seem to be using a lot of lenses lately that are manual focus and I don’t have an issue with it now.

    One of the benefits with the Samyang fisheye is that for most subjects they are going to be several feet or meters from you so you can put the focus ring on infinity and just click away. It is rare than anything you shoot will be too close for that. Obviously if something is close you will need to focus the lens, but for the most part you can put it on infinity and just go for it. Just remember that it is on that setting and don’t forget to keep checking that the image is focused (zoom in on the image playback).

    leannecole-samyang-12mm-fisheye-31

    Fireworks at the Royal Melbourne Show.

    Conclusions

    Working with the lens

    If you have purchased the fisheye then it would seem you are looking for more than just a wide angle lens. The lens is known for its distortions, so work with that. Find subjects that will be enhanced due to the curve of the lens. If you are somewhere like in a city, try different compositions to see which will work the best.

    If you want something to appear straight, like the bridge, if you put that more in the centre of the image the distortion is far less. The same is true for the horizon. If you put the horizon line in the center of the frame then it will stay straight, but if you move it up or down it will get a curve to it. That can be really effective as well.

    leannecole-samyang-12mm-fisheye-34

    Looking down a pier into the night sky at Sorrento. See the horizon is almost straight as it is closer to the middle of the image.

    Applications

    The lens is perfect for astrophotography and that is mainly where it is used. You can get a lot of sky into a fisheye image and the distortions wouldn’t matter so much. You can get brilliant shots of the Milky Way, or great star trails. Samyang Australia tends to market it to aurora hunters too, but it has other uses as well.

    Architecture is a great subject for this lens. It does give many of the lines a curved shape, and in people’s minds they know they are meant to be straight. But you can use those distortions to create unique images.

    leannecole-samyang-12mm-fisheye-36

    Some of the new architecture down at Docklands.

    Many sports photographers could also find it useful. Not for everything, but for some special images. Cycling photographer Graham Watson often uses a fisheye for unique views of races like the Tour de France. With cycling ,you can get very close to the cyclists. So the fisheye would be perfect for some races, especially for a criterium when they are going around corners.

    As the lens is so wide, there are many types of photography that it is not well suited for. Landscapes could work, but you need to have something in the foreground, otherwise everything would be too far away. The use of leading lines is important for that type of photography.

    leannecole-samyang-12mm-fisheye-37

    The full curve of the Webb Bridge in the Docklands.

    Who is this lens for?

    The most obvious answer to this would be astrophotographers and aurora hunters, but there are others who would also benefit from it as well, like sports and architectural photographers. Perhaps others who want to add something unique or different to their images. For the price and size, it could be a great addition to any photographer’s kit.

    If you are looking for a challenge in your photography, or perhaps you want to start looking at the world in a different way, I would highly recommend the Samyang 12mm F2.8 ED AS NCS Fisheye lens. It’s a fun and not too expensive piece of kit. While you may not use it a lot, you will get it out and take photos with it from time to time. We all have lenses that we don’t use a lot, but enjoy using them when we do.

    Price out this lens on Amazon and B&H Photo.

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    The post Overview of the Samyang 12mm F2.8 ED AS NCS Fisheye Lens by Leanne Cole appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • Filmborn for iOS offers 9 film presets and educational content

    Mastin Labs, which is probably best known for its Lightroom and Photoshop presets, has applied its film emulation know-how to the mobile sector and launched the Filmborn app for iOS. The app is advertised as a full-blown replacement for Apple’s stock camera app, with features such as gesture-based white balance and exposure, advanced editing mode, batch processing and image library functions.

    Image by Kirstin Mckee, iOS FILM: Fuji 160NS

    However, the app’s real selling point are the 9 film emulations users can choose from, including Ilford Pan F, Fuji 400H or Fuji 800Z. Each ‘digital emulsion’ is customizable, allowing you to adjust it to your personal style. The app also provides some educational content that explains what capture situation or what skin tones a simulation mode is best suited for. There is also a ‘Camera Manual’ where Filmborn users can learn more about analog film processing and how it translates into the controls and features offered by the app. So, Filmborn is also an interesting tool for those who like the idea of developing film but prefer to ‘practice’ digitally first.

    If this sounds interesting to you you can find more information and sample images on the Filmborn website or download the app for free from the Apple App Store. Some advanced tools are available as in-app purchases.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Shaking up the market: Pentax K-70 Review

    The Pentax K-70 is a mid-level DSLR that takes the basic architecture of their existing K-S2 and adds a new 24MP AA-filterless CMOS sensor with on-sensor PDAF, and a slew of other improvements. The sensor is cradled by Pentax’s famous ‘Shake Reduction’ in-body image stabilization system, and is protected from the elements thanks to weather-sealing and dustproofing. Clever use of the ‘SR’ unit enables the Pentax to perform a few tricks, such as the AA-filter simulator that reduces moiré and Pixel Shift Resolution that cancels out the Bayer color filter array by shifting the sensor one pixel in each direction, resulting in improved color detail and less noise.

    There’s also an improved image processor that enables the K-70 to shoot 14 bit Raw at 6 frames per second, which works in tandem with an 11-point autofocus system. The central nine points of the AF system are cross-type, and are sensitive down to -3EV.

    Just this handful of headline features should make the K-70, at its starting price of $ 649.95 for the body, good value for money. Its competition, the Nikon D5500 and the Canon EOS Rebel T6i, don’t offer up nearly as many features for the price. Let’s take a closer look:

      Pentax K-70 Canon Rebel T6i Nikon D5500
    Launch price
    (body only)
    $ 649.95 $ 749.95 $ 899.95
    Launch price (with long zoom kit lens) $ 899.95
    (18-135mm F3.5-5.6 WR)
    $ 1,099.95
    (18-135mm F3.5-5.6 STM)
    $ 1,199.95
    (18-140mm F3.5-5.6 VR)
    Control Dials 2 1 1
    ISO range Auto, 100-102400   Auto, 100-12800 (expandable to 25600)   Auto, 100 – 25600  
    Image Stabilization Sensor-shift No No
    Focus Points 11 (9 cross-type) 19 (all cross-type) 39 (9 cross-type)
    Articulated LCD   Fully articulated Fully articulated Fully articulated
    Touchscreen No Yes Yes
    Wi-Fi Yes Yes Yes
    Battery Life (CIPA) 410 440 820
    Live View Hybrid AF Yes No No
    AF Fine-tune Yes No No
    Weight 688 g (24.3 oz)   555 g (19.6 oz) 420 g (14.8 oz)  
    Viewfinder type   Pentaprism Pentamirror Pentamirror
    Viewfinder magnification 0.95x
    (0.63x in FF terms)
    0.82x
    (0.51x in FF terms)
    0.82x
    (0.55x in FF terms)
    Viewfinder coverage 100% 95% 95%

    As we can see, the Pentax represents a serious value for money. It offers complete (twin-dial) DSLR controls in a segment where most make due with just one. It has the largest viewfinder here and is the only one to offer full coverage of the scene. Plus, it is the only to offer in-body stabilization and on-sensor phase detection autofocus.

    As a consequence of the big, prism-type viewfinder and internal stabilization, it also ends up being the heaviest camera and comes with with the shortest battery life. On the face of it, the autofocus system appears behind the other two in terms of number of points, with the Nikon leading the way. When cross-type points are taken in to consideration, the Canon takes the lead with its 19 cross type points, while the Pentax and the Nikon both have only 9 cross-type points. On the other hand, the Pentax is the only one to offer the increasingly necessary (with DSLRs) AF fine adjustment. More on that later.

    For those that would rather not mess with adjusting autofocus, there are plenty of mirrorless options for the price of the Pentax. The quick Sony a6000 comes to mind, as does the similarly well equipped Olympus E-M10 II (IBIS and twin dials). If weight is an issue, the mirrorless options as a whole will offer a big decrease in weight and size, and in some cases a great increase in overall operation speed. For those wanting something more traditional and chunkier, though, the Pentax seems promising.

    What the mirrorless options, and even the DSLR options, won’t be is a near indestructible, weatherproof camera. So, is the Pentax K-70 as good as its features promise?

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)