Category: Photography

  • The Basics of Using ND Grads to Improve Your Landscapes

    For this image, I used a 4-stop hard-edged ND grad to hold back the sky.  I also used a 5-stop ND filter to slow the exposure enough to get the water silky smooth. 6 seconds, f/16, ISO 100. EOS 5D Mark III with EF 16-35mm f/2.8L II.

    For this image, I used a 4-stop hard-edged ND grad to hold back the sky. I also used a 5-stop ND filter to slow the exposure enough to get the water silky smooth. 6 seconds, f/16, ISO 100. EOS 5D Mark III with EF 16-35mm f/2.8L II.

    As I’ve written before, the hardest part of landscape photography is retaining detail in a bright sky with a darker foreground.  There are several ways to deal with this issue. The newest ways involve various post-processing techniques in Photoshop or Lightroom, or using High Dynamic Range photography to blend several exposures together, retaining both shadow and highlight detail from these exposures.  There is nothing wrong with these techniques, and in fact there are times where these may be the best method for keeping detail in the sky. There are issues with both blending and HDR.  HDR tends to have a very processed look to it when not done well, and blending takes time to do well. I am not one who likes to spend much time in Photoshop with my images.  In addition, you still need to be sure that you somehow capture enough information in the sky that you are not simply darkening down white pixels.

    On the left is a 2-stop, hard-edged ND grad.  On the right is a soft-edged 2-stop ND grad.

    On the left is a 2-stop, hard-edged ND grad. On the right is a soft-edged 2-stop ND grad.

    To ensure you’re capturing enough detail, the use of graduated neutral density filters is needed. Graduated Neutral Density Filters (ND grads, for short), are pieces of glass or photographic resin that are half clear, and gradually gets darker as it moves to the other end.  This darkening begins in the middle of the piece of glass.  First of all, these filters come in two forms.  The first of which is a typical screw-on filter that screws onto the front of the lens. While this style is fine for polarizers or skylight filters, it’s problematic for ND grads, because the horizon can’t be repositioned.  The other way these filters come is in 4×5 or 4×6 inch glass or resin.  These pieces of glass are then placed in holders, and the horizon can be repositioned as needed. The biggest advantage these filters have over the screw-in kind is the fact that they allow you freedom of composition to put the horizon where you want.   The most popular holders and systems for this type of filter are the Cokin systems, which come in various sizes, and the Lee system, which typically accepts a 4″ wide filter.  The Cokin systems tend to be a bit cheaper both in terms of cost of the holder and cost of the filters.  The Lee system is a bit more expensive on both fronts.

    Once you’ve decided on which system to use, there is then the choice of which ND grads to choose. There are several companies that manufacture these filters, from  Cokin for their systems, to Lee, to to Formatt Hi Tech, to Schneider Optics, among others.  The prices vary, depending on whether you’re buying photographic resin or glass.  Resin filters tend to be cheaper while glass is most expensive. Resin doesn’t break when dropped but can scratch more easily than glass does. ND grads are available in various densities, including  2 stops, 3 stops, and 4 stops.

    The selection doesn’t stop there, however. In addition to choosing which density you need, you also must choose how gradual the density is. Graduated neutral density filters come in both hard-edge and soft-edge graduations.   You would use hard-edge filters when you have a clear horizon and no object in the foreground intersects it.  You would use soft-edged filters when there is an object that intersects the horizon.  Soft-edge filters have a much smoother gradation, which allows it to look more natural when used in a photo.  A hard-edged filter will create a more definitive line between light and dark in the image.

    These filters have become some of the most important tools in my bag when creating landscape photos. If you’re just starting out, get an inexpensive set of filters- there is no “one size fits all” to ND grads.   However, if you can only start with one, I’d suggest a soft-edged three stop ND grad. The hard-edged can be limiting at times, and two stops never seems to be enough on its own.  I often stack ND grads to get the effect I’m looking for.

    Happy shooting!

    Because Haystack Rock stood above the horizon line, and was quite a bit darker than the sky behind it, I had to use a 3-stop, soft-edged ND grad filter here. 1/20, f/16, ISO 100. EOS 5D Mark III with EF 16-35mm f/2.8L II.

    Because Haystack Rock stood above the horizon line, and was quite a bit darker than the sky behind it, I had to use a 3-stop, soft-edged ND grad filter here. 1/20, f/16, ISO 100. EOS 5D Mark III with EF 16-35mm f/2.8L II.

    Post originally from: Digital Photography Tips.

    Check out our more Photography Tips at Photography Tips for Beginners, Portrait Photography Tips and Wedding Photography Tips.

    The Basics of Using ND Grads to Improve Your Landscapes


    Digital Photography School

  • Vivian Maier – The Secret Nanny Street Photographer: BBC Documentary Part 1

    We’ve posted about the remarkable story of Vivian Maier in the past here on dPS. Vivian was a nanny who worked in a number of families – none of which knew she had a secret life of a street photographer.

    Over the years she took over 100,000 images between the late 1940′s through to the 1990s – showing them to nobody but storing them in a storage locker which was only discovered after her death when the contents were auctioned without really knowing what treasure was in the negatives and slides in it.

    Her images have now been catalogued and a documentary is being made by the owner of the photographs after a kickstarted project.

    This week the BBC released part 1 of a documentary on Vivians story. Part 2 shouldn’t be too far off but in the mean time – grab a drink and settle down to watch Vivians story.

    Post originally from: Digital Photography Tips.

    Check out our more Photography Tips at Photography Tips for Beginners, Portrait Photography Tips and Wedding Photography Tips.

    Vivian Maier – The Secret Nanny Street Photographer: BBC Documentary Part 1


    Digital Photography School

  • The Best iPhone Photo Apps That You Should Download Right Now

    Your handheld device is nothing without apps, that lovely and beautiful software that lets you do much more on your smartphone than just call someone. If you’re a serious photographer, you just can’t pass up the chance to install serious photography apps on your mobile device. They will empower you to engage in your picture-taking passion when you’re on the Continue Reading

    The post The Best iPhone Photo Apps That You Should Download Right Now appeared first on Photodoto.


    Photodoto

  • Gulf Photo Plus PopUP is Coming to London

    One of the coolest things about Dubai is coming to London this fall. No, not the tower—although it would make a nice little spear for London's gherkin, dontcha think?

    Nope, even cooler: Gulf Photo Plus is coming to London on Sept. 28th and 29th. I'll be there. So will Zack and McNally. And Heisler. It's gonna be a nonstop firehose of a weekend.

    You can sleep at your desk on Monday.

    Read more »
    Strobist

  • Fine Art Painterly Images From Your Photos

    A Guest Post by Alex Morrison

    So, you’re thinking about unleashing your inner artist? Good for you! Old school photography can seem a bit limiting sometimes, with all those pesky rules – the rule of thirds, the rules of thumb, sunny 16 rule. Who needs rules! Your creative after all and we creatives are born to break the rules!

    Fine art photography is one of those photographic genres that defies rules, bends and breaks them and in the process of doing so the photographer creates art. A bad out of focus image of a flower could become your masterpiece; a mediocre landscape can hang in a gallery! With a little know how, and a creative eye, fine art images are pretty easy to create.

    In this article we’ll discover what fine art photographs are, how to develop your own artistic style, and a simple way to process your photos into art images.

    But Is It Art?

    So what’s the difference exactly, between a fine art image and any other kind of photography? Well, this is where a clear definition gets a little murky.

    Here are some general parameters, so we can talk about fine art photography from a common perspective (excuse the pun). Art photography is printed, and hung. (Hopefully in a prominent place!). It can be used in decor, in homes and offices; or “art for art sake” in galleries and exhibitions. Fine art photos are usually presented and sold as limited editions.

    Here’s a pretty clear definition I really like, from the Professional Photographers of Canada that covers most of the generally accepted requirements of a fine art image:

    Fine art images may consist of unusual images, individual images or a series of images. The range of styles and treatments varies greatly, from the classic black and white scenes to more non-conventional images. In fact, conventional beauty, formal design and familiar subjects are often not components of fine art images and can include painterly effects, soft-focus, journalistic, snapshot type images, bizarre and erotic images and other unconventional approaches.

    Fine art images are usually sold to individual collectors, museums and business clients. Photo Decor is usually the term used to designate a print hung to decorate a room, whether in a private home, an institution, a corporate boardroom, a gallery, etc.

    All right, now that we know what we are talking about let’s find out about how to create these wondrous and unconventional images. For this discussion we’ll be devoting our exploration to painterly styles and effects – the coolest and easiest techniques to learn! Other fine art photography techniques will be discussed in future articles. So hang tough if your favourite style isn’t included here yet :-) And if you don’t like photographs that look like paintings don’t despair – this is only one way of so many ways you can create fine art photographs.

    Finding Your Artistic Style

    First, let’s look at classic fine art. I know this seems counter intuitive – how can we break the rules if we’re studying classics – didn’t they define the rules?! Well, yes, but…these historical styles and techniques give us powerful insight into the range of artistic expression that you can build on when considering painterly looks.

    449px Flowers in a Crystal Vase Edouard Manet c1882Since I’m a big fan of Sir Isaac Newton’s “..on the shoulders of giants…1″ school of greatness, I believe you achieve success in anything by building on and learning from the achievements of others.

    A great place to begin absorbing a fine art point of view is with the old classic paintings, from Goya to the Post-Impressionists, and all schools in between!

    I adore works by Claude Monet, and much of my art photography style is of his influence (his picture to the right).

    Not to be confused with Claude is Édouard Manet, whose use of colour in his still lifes also moves me deeply.

    The great thing is you don’t even have to “study” these works, just look at them and notice the colours, the brush strokes, the compositions, the subject matter.

    Are you inspired yet? Ok, here’s another artist for you to investigate, in case you want more examples than just flowers in vases! Look for works JMW Turner an 18th century water colour artist who changed landscape art forever.

    He inspired this image of a reflection in a lake.

    Rainforesttapestry

    The Subject of Your Desires

    If your aim is to sell your fine art images as decor, be sure that your subject matter is something most people would want in their homes or offices. Think about the context. Ugly doesn’t sell – no matter how artistically it is portrayed. But beauty generally does. Artistic treatments of flowers, landscapes, still lifes, abstracts and impressionistic figure studies are safe bets as subject matter. They seem to be almost universally accepted.

    One of my most acclaimed art images – won several major awards – and one that everyone absolutely loves is “the Devils’ in the Details.” Someone loved it so much they bought it, but returned it to the gallery a week later because once they got it on the wall – it was just too freaky and disturbing!

    Devilsinthedetails
    ?
    If you plan on selling to collectors then usually any subject is fair game – some lesser known van Gogh paintings were of old shoes. Who knew!

    But it’s YOUR creative interpretation and treatment of these subjects, whatever they may be, that creates the WOW factor. And it is here in your treatment and interpretation that you can break all the rules!

    Viewing the works of artists who have gone before will expand your imagination and get your creative consciousness flowing for styles, subjects and different and unique ways to portray them. Once you have your image captured, you can then create a wild assortment of artistic and painterly effects in your post production processing…which is coming right up!

    Creating Painterly Techniques in Post Production

    One of the most flexible and fun ways to give your images a painterly fine art quality is to use overlays, underlays and textures, which you add in post production. As long as your favourite image editor supports layers and blending modes you’re good to go. If you get really expert you may even want to make your own textures and under/overlays to take full control of your final image. You’ll be rocking epic fine art photography.

    Back in 2006 I was playing with a program called Corel Painter – it is a painting program where you can create all sorts of paint effects in a digital way. I had created an image in Painter using an oil paint “brush” and the texture and some subtle colours. Just our of curiosity I layered this image on top of a landscape and wow! the brush strokes came through in a most enchanting way – and so my own form of painterly fine art overlays were born! I use these a lot and make new ones as needed. But you don’t have to go to all that work – often using random images you have in your folders can be just as useful, as we will soon see.

    Achieving a painterly affect in a photograph requires two main components in post production, usually a texture to emulate canvas, cloth, or some other base media; and at least one other texture or overlay to give it the image the look of something other than a straight-up photo – something like a painting! Depending on your initial image you may not have to use both these types of textures. In fact because there are no rules here you can stack multiple layers in a variety of combinations to achieve stunning images.

    “Winter Garden” started out as this. A fine mess of dead and withered grasses in my garden in January!
    ?
    Wintergardenbefore

    And it was transformed to this, and went on to win several national and provincial awards for Fine Art photography:

    Wintergardenafter
    ?

    And now finally – How do I do this?

    First, take a stroll around the Internet and look for free textures. Not textures of wooden boards and bricks though – look for cloth and fabric textures. Also look for textures of brush strokes or that have a very fine pattern like rust, old concrete. Other photos that are out of focus, or that have primarily one colour or pattern such as frost or rain drops on a window also work particularly well.

    If you’re not inclined to go on a treasure hunt right now, I’ve created source files for you! Here are the files I used for Winter Garden, to get you started!

    (downloads) (warning: this is an 18MB download and will give you a zip file with a PSD file and some JPGs).

    The idea is to underlay and overlay these textures and images with your base image using blending modes and opacity to alter the way the textures interact with the base image. Ready to get started?

    The Process of Post Processing

    In Photoshop or your image editor, open your main photograph – your base image – in this case if you’re using my source files, Image 0852. Double click on the Background layer in the layers panel to make your Background layer editable. It will be called Layer 0. Set its blending mode to Soft light.

    Then go to File>Place and select the image 0853.jpg. Stretch it to fit if needed. This will become Layer 1 Change the blending mode to Hard Light.

    Duplicate this layer, and set the blending mode to Luminosity, and change the opacity to 20%. Flip the layer horizontally by going to Edit>Transform> Flip horizontal.

    Almost there! Now place Image 0775, this is a photo of frost that I am using as a texture and colour overlay – stretch to fit if needed, and then set the blending mode to color, and opacity to 49%.

    Now we’re going to create the UNDERLAYS! These are layers that we will add UNDER Layer 0. How exciting!

    So… place image 0870, and drag the layer to be immediately under Layer 0. Set Layer 0 to Soft Light.

    Set your underlay layer to 53% opacity.

    And finally we will add our last underlay layer by placing the texture, Image 0809. Well add this in 2 places, but first place it as we have done with the others, and move it to be the bottom-most layer in your stack. It will be Normal and 100%.

    Now duplicate this layer (CTRL J) and drag the copy to be the top-most layer in your stack. Set it to soft light and 42%.

    At this point you should save your file as a layered image. What do you think? Quite painterly, no?

    Want to adjust some more? Awesome! You can now play with these layers, the order, the opacities, the blending modes and even adjusting hue and saturation of individual layers to suit your own style and your interpretation of withered grasses in the winter. You can add other textures you may have on hand or that you’ve found online.

    With a few simple images, some inspiration from the Masters, and your own imagination, free from rules and constraints, you’ll be making fine art images in no time!

    Screenshot

    Alex is a professional fine art and nature photographer, accredited by The Professional Photographers of Canada, and was Canadian Photographic Artist of the Year in 2009. In 2012 and 2011 she was selected Manitoba Photographic Artist of the Year. She teaches photography, runs workshops and online classes on fine art and nature photography, infrared photography and iphone photography. Her educational website with photography tips and tricks is at www.nature-photography-central.com. Her art photography portfolio is www.alexandra-morrison.com. Connect with Alex on Facebook, Pinterest and Google+.

    Post originally from: Digital Photography Tips.

    Check out our more Photography Tips at Photography Tips for Beginners, Portrait Photography Tips and Wedding Photography Tips.

    Fine Art Painterly Images From Your Photos


    Digital Photography School

  • Take Part in the dPS Reader Survey and Go in the Draw to Win $1000 For New Camera Gear

    Our goal here at dPS is to constantly be improving our site to make it more useful to our growing readership. As part of that we’ll be rolling out a brand new dPS design (including a new Mobile design) in the coming weeks – but we don’t want to stop at that!

    As part of our efforts to make dPS more useful to you we’d love you to take 5 minutes to complete a quick reader survey that we’ve put together.

    As a little bonus incentive to participate we’re also going to give a prize of $ 1000 towards new camera gear, software or even a computer to one respondent who completes the survey before midnight on July 12 (US Eastern time)!

    Participate in this reader survey here.

    Your Privacy is Assured: While we ask for your email address in the survey in order to know who to send the prize to if you win we do not tie your responses to that email address and will never share your email address with any third party or use it for any other purpose than to notify you if you win the prize.

    Thanks for helping us to keep improving dPS. Keep an eye open for a brand new dPS design in the coming weeks.

    Post originally from: Digital Photography Tips.

    Check out our more Photography Tips at Photography Tips for Beginners, Portrait Photography Tips and Wedding Photography Tips.

    Take Part in the dPS Reader Survey and Go in the Draw to Win $ 1000 For New Camera Gear


    Digital Photography School

  • Photographic Digital Printing [REVIEW]

    Photographic Digital Printing.jpgIn my experience, personal printing is a declining art. Walk through any retail photo dept and you’ll see hordes of people sitting at digital print stations pumping out bundles of 6×4 inch prints from their precious memory sticks and CDs.

    Many of these keen printers will be women, turning happy snap family digi shots into photo records, destined for albums.

    The Photographic Digital Printing book will be of no use to them… after all, those auto digi printers do a fine job!

    However, it’s the real, rusted on photographers who want quite a bit more from their printing efforts.

    As author David Taylor says: ‘It used to be so simple. Once, there was little choice if you wanted a printer. Generally, the same manufacturer made the only printer available for a particular computer printer model. … Printers allow a photographer to control every aspect of image making, from the initial exposure through to the final print.’

    Things have sure changed since then: the range of printer types has exploded for one thing. The range of media has similarly expanded, as has the ‘ink’ used.

    Ink? Well, for starters there are colour laser printers at affordable prices. Possibly, the only brake on laser printers moving into photo printing further is their inability to use coated papers due to the laser’s heat.

    Dye sublimation printers are another type that have positive aspects but, again, fall foul of a limited range of papers and size limits.

    Inkjet printers are ubiquitous and are able to produce prints at relatively low cost onto an amazing range of papers and surfaces.

    Inkjet printers are divided into two subsets: dye-based and pigmented. The book goes into considerable detail on each type, with descriptions about how ink is placed onto paper, the technology involved and their comparative benefits and disadvantages. This information should be of considerable benefit to new buyers tossing up on the pluses and minuses of each.

    Other topics follow: computer to printer communication; printer makers; the various media you can print to. In this area, the range is truly amazing: paper in a wide variety of surfaces, weights and types. Then there is canvas media, transparent film and other surfaces.

    On the topic of paper alone, the book spends 20 pages delving into the fibres used, weight, opacity, sizes, surfaces, finish, brightness and texture. Would you like to use Baryta paper, water coloured, calendared or resin coated paper? Perhaps your printing needs will be answered by using artisan papers made by such companies as Hahnemüle or Canson or St Cuthbert’s Mill?

    If you have reached around page 50 in the book you will need to make a commitment to take the whole business seriously, commit yourself to the whole technology — or simply head back to your local photo print shop! It’s a serious game!

    Strapped in? With David Taylor at the helm, let’s explore more topics: colour and calibration; colour channels; colour management; profiling; image preparation; bit depth; using JPEG or RAW files; understanding histograms.

    There is much information about the role of Photoshop in print making. A great deal of this information will cross over and be of help in your original image capture. After all, it’s difficult to print an incorrectly exposed or post processed image. So the book moves into detailed descriptions on how to work with curves, layers, sharpening, etc.

    In the closing chapters of the book we finally get to make a print! And even then the info keeps rolling!

    How to store a print. How to mount a print. Book binding. Exhibiting. Black and white printing. And troubleshooting.

    For me, the big surprise is that there is so much information in such a small book and information which is camera and printer non-specific — unlike some other publications which are dedicated to brand name printers.

    An excellent book on the subject.

    Author: D Taylor.
    Publisher: Ammonite Press.
    Distributor: Capricorn Link.
    Size: 18x15x1cm. 192 pages.
    ISBN: 978 1 90770 874 9.
    Price: Get a price on Digital Printing (The Expanded Guides: Techniques) by (David Taylor) at Amazon (currently 24% off).

    Post originally from: Digital Photography Tips.

    Check out our more Photography Tips at Photography Tips for Beginners, Portrait Photography Tips and Wedding Photography Tips.

    Photographic Digital Printing [REVIEW]


    Digital Photography School

  • Submitting Your Photos to Online Forums

    A contribution from Lori Peterson

    Every day photographers use Facebook and other photo sharing websites, such as Instagram, for sharing images with their clients and potential customers. This ability to share has made it much easier to get instant feedback from the images that are posted and for photographers to see what their client base is actually looking for.

    Facebook has overwhelmingly provided photographers with a unique way of interacting with other photographers. Online photography forums and groups are plenty in the World Wide Web. Photographers can submit images to have them critiqued, they can have them considered for publications, and they can even win awards for their online submissions.

    Submitting online forums

    While some photographers may think that these forums and groups are a waste of time, there are others who will tell you that you are missing out on a lot of opportunities by not participating. The internet is always opening up new possibilities for people, especially in the world of photography.

    Photographers and artists will typically create a Curriculum Vitae instead of a traditional resume. A Curriculum Vitae is basically a summary of your qualifications and will include any exhibits and publications that have showcased your work. There are many juried art and photography forums online. Winning awards can be the jump-start on your Curriculum Vitae for helping you to obtain grants, get into art exhibits, and get your work published. It will also give insights to any exhibit curator as to your creative process and what your specific vision for your art is.

    Submitting online forums 2

    There are many forums online you can submit to, such as Just Color & Art (JCA), Lemonade and Lenses, Cameraraw, View Bug, or Pixoto.

    Once you submit to any of these forums, photographers of all other skill levels will see your work. When you post in the online forums you have to be prepared for the critiques (yes, even the dreaded unsolicited ones!). Those critiques (both asked for and those not asked for) give you a rare opportunity to get insights from other photographers, other eyes, and other artists. Don’t take any negative critiques personally. Remember, art is very subjective. But do read the comments and consider where they are coming from. Could you have increased your shutter speed? Would a higher or lower ISO made for a better shot? Obviously, you can’t go back and change those things, but they are food for thought for future images.

    Some businesses have taken to Facebook and it’s availability of online forums to look for photographers who are local to them for product photography, real estate photography, and even headshots for their company. Keeping your work current and out there for people to see can lead you to new ways to make money as a photographer.

    Online forums can also spark photographer friendships. Having a photographer friend who is not your local competition can be a wonderful asset. Photographers are generally willing to listen and help out when they can. Friendships between photographers can be helpful when you are learning something new, trying out new ideas, or even when you are feeling overwhelmed or frustrated. Having a like-minded person listen to you and bounce ideas around can really help you to re-focus your time, energy, and mind where it needs to be.

    Another boost to submitting to online forums? Increased SEO (Search Engine Optimization) for your photography website or blog. When you post from your photography page you are creating a cross-link between the forum and your page. Using specific keywords and updating your blog posts and website with any awards, recognitions, or honors from online forums can also help increase your SEO. 

    There are many benefits to utilizing online photography forums and you will have to decide whether or not it is right for your specific business model. They are a very unique way for photographers to interact and learn from one another. They provide an opportunity for learning, friendships, and in some cases, they can lead to employment opportunities. Utilizing online forums can also help you to get your work seen by potential publishers and grant committees.

    Lori Peterson is an award winning photographer based out of the St. Louis Metro Area. Her dynamic work ranges from creative portraits to very unique fine art photography. Lori’s work can be seen at www.loripetersonphotography.com and also on her blog at www.loripetersonphotographyblog.com. You can follow her on Facebook at https://www.facebook.com/LoriPetersonPhotography.

    Post originally from: Digital Photography Tips.

    Check out our more Photography Tips at Photography Tips for Beginners, Portrait Photography Tips and Wedding Photography Tips.

    Submitting Your Photos to Online Forums


    Digital Photography School

  • Colour Contrast: Making the Most of Orange and Blue

    Colour contrast: using orange and blue

    One of the principles behind using colour in photography is that of using contrasting colours. To understand the concept we need to look at a colour wheel – a type of diagram used by designers to show the relationships between colours:

    Colour contrast: using orange and blue

    Diagram by Wikipedia contributor Jacobolus

    Contrasting colours are those that appear on opposite sides of the colour wheel. Today I’m going to look at two specific colours, orange and blue.

    Why these two? They happen to be very useful colours to work with because they appear a lot in nature (even though you might not be aware of it). It’s all to do with the colour of the ambient light, which ranges from cool blue to warm orange, depending on the light source.

    Incidentally, this is reflected by the colour temperature slider in Lightroom. One end is blue, and the other is orange:

    Colour contrast: using orange and blue

    Blue light

    In low light, in fog or rain, or at twilight the natural colour of the light is blue. In these conditions, any photo you take has a blue colour cast.

    The easiest way to see a colour cast in your photo is to set white balance to daylight. If the colour of the light is blue, then it will come out blue in your photo.

    If you use auto white balance the camera will warm the photo up to compensate for the blue colour cast of the light. That’s useful sometimes, but it’s not desirable if you want to create a moody image.

    Blue light is atmospheric. That’s because some colours evoke an emotional response, and blue is one of them. It is a cold colour – it connotes cold, misery, bad weather, even depression.

    Colour contrast: using orange and blue

    I took this photo in thick fog.The natural colour of the light is blue. The blue colour cast in this photo creates mood.

    Orange light

    Orange coloured light also occurs naturally. Light originating from the sun in the late afternoon, early evening or at sunset has an orange colour cast. So does light emitted by tungsten bulbs and burning flames.

    Anything lit by these light sources will have a warm orange colour cast. Again, you will see it clearly if you set white balance to daylight.

    Orange is another colour that evokes emotion. It is the colour of warmth and energy. It reminds us of things like the heat of summer or emotional warmth. Like blue, the psychological effect can be quite powerful.

    Colour contrast: using orange and blue

    The light source in this photo is the tungsten bulbs inside the lanterns. The natural colour of this light is orange.

    You can see that blue and orange are opposites in many respects. They are opposites on the colour wheel, and also in the emotions and feelings that they represent.

    Combining blue and orange

    One way to show contrast between two things is to place them together. There is a famous photo by Annie Leibovitz of a jockey and a basketball player, side by side (you can see it here). Placing both sportsmen side by side emphasises their respective height, and the difference in stature between them.

    It’s the same with blue and orange. Include both in the same image to add to the power of this colour combination. The coldness of the blue tones emphasises the warmth of the orange ones, and vice versa. Here are a few examples:

    Colour contrast: using orange and blue

    Most of the scene is lit by fading daylight, which has a natural blue colour. There is some warm light coming from the right, where the sun has set. The orange streak of light over the horizon comes from a plane flying by during the exposure.

    Colour contrast: using orange and blue

    This photo was taken when it was nearly dark. The landscape is lit by the fading light, which has a natural blue colour. My model is whirling a burning object around. The light from the fire is orange.

    Colour contrast: using orange and blue

    Finally, here is a photo created using the steel wool spinning technique. It’s taken at dusk, and the landscape is lit by the blue coloured light of the fading daylight. The light from the burning steel wool is orange, and so are the lights from the distant city buildings over the water.

    If you want to try steel wool spinning yourself, click the link to read an article I wrote about it on my website. Please pay attention to the safety instructions in the article – steel wool spinning is potentially dangerous.

    Mastering Photography

    Colour contrast: using orange and blue

    My latest ebook, Mastering Photography: A Beginner’s Guide to Using Digital Cameras introduces you to digital photography and helps you make the most out of your digital cameras. It covers concepts such as lighting and composition as well as the camera settings you need to master to take photos like the ones in this article.

    By the way, the cover photo is another great example of using the orange and blue colour contrast. The building and flag are lit by the setting sun, so they have an orange colour cast. The summer sky is deep blue. You can take this sort of photo just about anywhere during the golden hour at the end of the day.

    Post originally from: Digital Photography Tips.

    Check out our more Photography Tips at Photography Tips for Beginners, Portrait Photography Tips and Wedding Photography Tips.

    Colour Contrast: Making the Most of Orange and Blue


    Digital Photography School

  • Frio v2.0

    Just a quick heads-up that the frio double-locking cold shoe, which I consider to be the safest way to mount your speedlight to your swivel adapter, just got an upgrade: the female socket on the bottom (shown here) is now ¼” to 3/8″ adaptable. This should make some of you Euro folks happy, as 3/8″ is more of a standard there. They are shipping now.

    Also, they have those little double-male posts you need if you are gonna swap out your Justin Clamp cold shoes to frios (or any other shoe.)

    -30-


    Strobist