Category: Photography

  • An Alternative Rule-of-Thirds

    An alternative rule-of-thirds

    Most of you will be familiar with the rule-of-thirds: the idea that you can improve composition by placing the main subject a third of the way in from the side of the frame. For those of you who haven’t heard of this, here’s a diagram showing how it works:

    An alternative rule-of-thirds

    The lines show the ‘thirds’. The four points where the thirds intersect are said to be good spots to position the most important parts of the image. In this photo, the bird’s eye is close to one of the intersecting points, and we can say it is composed according to the traditional rule-of-thirds.

    Regardless of how much faith you place in the rule-of-thirds (there are plenty of photographers who will tell you that it is nonsense), subject placement is only part of the story when it comes to composition and creating strong images. One danger with concepts like the rule-of-thirds is that you might fail to look beyond its application towards the other factors that contribute to the creation of successful images.

    Alternative #1

    I rather like Cole Thompson’s version of the rule-of-thirds:

    “A great image is comprised of 1/3 vision, 1/3 the shot and 1/3 processing.”

    What does this mean, exactly? Statements like this are open to interpretation, but here’s my take:

    Vision: This is an understanding of the fundamentals of composition, combined with an appreciation of beautiful light and an eye for an interesting subject. These come together along with world view and the sum of the photographer’s life experiences to form a personal style and a way of visually interpreting the world.

    The Shot: This is where Henri Cartier-Bresson’s ‘decisive moment’ and the photographer’s craft skills come together to capture an image that realises the photographer’s creative vision. It’s where the technical and creative sides of photography meet. You have vision and style on one hand, and the technical knowledge required to achieve that vision on the other. It’s about understanding which focal length lens to use, which aperture, ISO and shutter speed settings are required, how to obtain the optimum exposure and so on.

    Processing: This is the work you do on your images in post-processing. It’s where you take the original Raw file and adjust the colour, contrast and tonal values to create a finished image that expresses what your creative eye originally saw. Post-processing has taken the place of traditional darkroom work and printing skills for many photographers

    I encourage you to read Cole’s article on this topic. You might also like to read an interview I carried out with Cole last year.

    Alternative #2

    I have my own version of the rule-of-thirds, though I tend to present it in the form of a triangle:

    An alternative rule-of-thirds

    Let’s paraphrase Cole:

    “A great image is comprised of 1/3 composition, 1/3 lighting and 1/3 technique.”

    Composition: This is understanding the best way to arrange the elements of the scene within the frame to produce a pleasing result. It goes beyond the rule-of-thirds and includes concepts such as tonal contrast, colour contrast, simplicity, negative space and use of line (I’ll go into these topics in depth in future articles).

    Lighting: Great photographers demand beautiful light. Anything less than that is a compromise. If something is worth photographing, it is worth doing so when the light is at its most beautiful. There are exceptions (photojournalists can hardly ask their subjects to return when the light is better, for example) but it’s a principle I place high value on.

    Technique: This is the craft side of photography. It’s knowing which lens to use, which aperture to set, how to obtain the optimum exposure and how to process your Raw files to get the best possible results. This is the technical side of the craft. It may seem complex at times but it’s essential to master.

    Putting it all together

    Let’s take a fresh look at the opening photo and see how these ideas tie together:

    An alternative rule-of-thirds

    Vision: I wanted to take a portrait of a friend of mine looking out to sea at sunset. I’m familiar with the location as it’s close to my home and I’ve visited it many times. This was the starting concept for the image.

    The Shot: I directed my model to look out to sea and used an 85mm lens with the aperture set to f2.8 to defocus the background.

    The Processing: I used a warm colour temperature to capture the rich tones of the setting sun and darkened the edges to guide the viewer’s eye towards my model.

    Composition: The horizon line is placed on a third and my model is more or less central. This composition ‘felt’ right to me – I often operate on instinct rather than try and place my subject in a specific part of the frame, such as a third. The dark rocks either side of my model provide balance.

    Lighting: We shot close to sunset to capture the deep warm colours of the late afternoon sun. Light is essential to the ‘feel’ of the photo. If we had shot earlier in the day, the mood would have been very different.

    Technique: I used a portrait lens set to a wide aperture to throw the background out of focus. I deliberately used natural light, rather than portable flash, to create ambience.

    Mastering Photography

    An alternative rule-of-thirds

    My latest ebook, Mastering Photography: A Beginner’s Guide to Using Digital Cameras discusses the creative triangle and other concepts in more detail.

    Post originally from: Digital Photography Tips.

    Check out our more Photography Tips at Photography Tips for Beginners, Portrait Photography Tips and Wedding Photography Tips.

    An Alternative Rule-of-Thirds


    Digital Photography School

  • 11 Tips for Photographing Senior Portraits

    A Guest Contribution by Meghan Newsom.

    When it comes to planning for sessions, seniors are some of my favorite people to work with. Don’t get me wrong, I love families, children, engaged couples and wedding ceremonies.. but seniors are close to the top of my list.

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    Why, you may ask? It’s simple: seniors are excited to model, seniors are some of my best marketing tools, and seniors know what they want. They also have a great sense of style, which translates well in their photographs.

    When a high school senior books a session with me, I do several things right from the start to help them know I am excited about working with them. I also do my best to get to know them so I can tailor their shoot to fit them perfectly. I find that if you do these things, your session will not only run smoothly, but you will have a client who LOVES to refer you to their friends.

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    Before the Shoot

    1. First things first, let them know how excited you are to work with them. Since seniors are all about social media, I tweet about how excited I am to work with them and plan their session a few days after they book with me.

    2. Next, I send each senior I book a tailored questionnaire so I can get to know them better. Some of these questions found in their questionnaire include:

    • What are some of your favorite features about yourself?
    • What do you want to remember most about this time in your life?
    • Are there any specific locations you have in mind for your shoot?
    • How would you spend your ideal Saturday?
    • How would you describe your personal style?

    3. Even though seniors are on top of the latest styles, they often need help when it comes to deciding what to wear to their session. So, a week before their session I send them a link to a pinterest board I have created to help give them specific ideas of what to bring with them. This small act not only helps your client, but it will also help you achieve the look you want in your own portfolio.

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    At the Shoot

    The morning of the session, I contact my client to make sure they know what time and where we are meeting up. I make sure they have their outfits picked out, and give them one more opportunity to ask me any questions they see fit.

    During the session I do several things to make the couple of hours I have with them memorable and stress free (and fun!!) for my senior client. You can do this too by doing the following things:

    1. Seniors are at an awesome stage in their lives, they have their whole future ahead of them. Talk with them, ask them questions, find out what their plans for the future are. Encourage them and invest in them while you are with them. They will feel appreciated, valued, and will feel confident hearing assuring words from an adult that isn’t their parent.

    2. Most seniors have never been in front of a professional photographer other than the cheesy pictures their parents had them take when they were younger. Make them feel comfortable. Praise them when they look good in front of the camera. I love to turn my camera around and show them some little peaks of how well they are doing. THEY LOVE THIS! It will encourage them to keep up the good work, and will give them confidence in their appearance.

    3. Posing. You may have some go-to poses you use for your seniors. But since each person is uniquely different, you need to have several tricks up your sleeve. Enter my i-phone. Recently I have been taking screen shots of poses I am inspired them and putting them into albums on my i phone. When I hit a rut, I whip out my phone and look at my posing guides. At first I thought this was like “cheating” during a shoot, but my seniors LOVE IT! They think it is so cool that I thought of them enough before hand to plan for their poses during their session. Again, this makes them feel valued. I have a great Pinterest board to help you out if your stuck in a rut.

    4. Props. I love to bring small props for my seniors to hold or sit on during their session. This could mean an old folding chair, a cute beach hat, an old quilt.. or even some books. Some people feel really awkward in front of the camera at first, so these little props give them something to do with their hands while they are adjusting to your presence.

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    After the Shoot

    After their session, you can keep up the “hype” by doing several things:

    1. The following day post a “teaser” or “sneak peak” photo from their session onto facebook. This is another reason why I love seniors. They will share that teaser with all of their friends through social media, which means more publicity for you and your business!

    2. The following week, after I have edited all of their images, I will send ten images to them through PASS. They will also share these images through facebook, and it will give them a great idea of why they should purchase a disc with ALL of their high-resolution images from me.

    3. As soon as I have all of their images edited, I will order a custom book for my seniors and send it to them along with a really appealing package. The package includes a hand written note, business cards, and other little goodies I sneak in for them. They always love how personal I make these for each of them (another great reason so send them a questionnaire and get to know them well during the session!)

    4. After they have their images, blog all about their session, including images they haven’t seen in the ten I sent them. This blog post will also be shared through social medial to their friends and family (more free advertising!).

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    In post processing senior photos, always remember that you are photographing for their parents as much as you are your senior client. I keep “fad” type editing out of the equation because I know ten years from now their parents will want a solid (not overly processed) image on their wall.

    Instead of using “fad” editing techniques, I always let the style speak through the locations I choose. You can easily do this by choosing old brick buildings, abandoned farm houses, fields of cotton etc. The seniors love this, and their parents will appreciate the timelessness of the photographs they receive.

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    It is not hard to rock a session with your seniors, it just takes some extra things to go above and beyond so they know you appreciate them and want to know them. All of those extra things will make your client feel special, and will translate into those coveted word of mouth referrals for you and your growing business!

    Meghan Newsom is a lifestyle and wedding photographer located in Northern Alabama. When she’s not writing for her lifestyle blog, cooking up gluten free recipes, or taking pictures, you can find her exploring outside with her husband and pup.

    Post originally from: Digital Photography Tips.

    Check out our more Photography Tips at Photography Tips for Beginners, Portrait Photography Tips and Wedding Photography Tips.

    11 Tips for Photographing Senior Portraits


    Digital Photography School

  • Panasonic Lumix DMC-GF6 Review

    Panasonic Lumix DMC-GF6 Review.jpg

    The advance of mirrorless interchangeable lens cameras is still a developing tale.

    The GF6 is a good example of where we’re at, but don’t think for one moment that what the camera offers is indicative of what a MILC camera should offer.
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    Panasonic Lumix DMC-GF6 back.jpg

    Panasonic Lumix DMC-GF6 side.jpg

    The beauty of this style of camera is that it’s small, with access to a range of lenses that are similarly compact in size. It can be used as a point-and-shoot, it’s pocketable (with lens removed) and equipped with a sufficient number of controls that most people will cotton on to.

    One price you pay with the GF6 is that there is no turret viewfinder, a big help in bright ambient light, nor is there access to an optional finder. There is however, a vari-angle touch screen LCD that tilts vertically through an approximate 180 degrees arc.

    The CMOS captures a maximum image size of 4592×3448 pixels, leading to a 39x29cm print.

    Video can be shot in AVCHD or MPEG4 formats, up to Full HD 1920×1080 pixels resolution. And you can shoot stills during a video recording.

    Panasonic Lumix DMC-GF6 Features

    At first sight, the camera is attractive. A soft chrome top deck and the rest in black.

    Controls

    Top deck: at left is a button to activate the flash cell; just right of the latter is the mode dial holding positions for auto, PASM, ‘creative’ video; two custom settings; panorama shooting; scene modes (23 in all) and a creative control mode that takes you into a magic world of 19 shooting styles that include a retro look, high and low key effects, mono, cross processing etc.
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    Creative control.jpg

    If you get the feeling, from the scene modes and creative control effects in the GF6, that this is a dabbler’s camera … you’d be right! The more expert may scoff at this situation but, if it helps photographers to get more out of their camera, I’m all for it.

    Moving further to the right you see the shutter button, on/off button, direct access to the intelligent auto mode and the video record button.

    One annoyance: the video record button is only mills away from the iAuto button … too easy to hit the latter when you really wanted to activate the former. Far better to have placed the video button on an edge as most other camera do.

    The camera’s rear is fairly simple in layout: replay; screen display options; four way control dial offering exposure variation, AF modes, white balance options, single/continuous shooting and self timer. Central is the menu/set button.

    Beneath the control dial is a quick access menu button and a Function button.
    My main gripe with this arrangement is that the control dial has four positions (AWB, etc) but each of these is identified by tiny white text on a silver background. Impossible to see!
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    The menus are clearly laid out.

    But there are some novel aspects to this camera that are unique: one is the stop motion feature. You can set the camera to shoot images at predetermined intervals or fire them off manually.
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    There is easy wireless connectivity via Wi-Fi with compliant smart phones and tablets that lets you monitor the camera’s view from a smartphone and set zoom, focus, shutter release, shutter speed, aperture and exposure compensation.

    With High Dynamic Range, the camera merges three shots with differing exposure levels into a single picture; this will help with subjects of an extreme bright to dark brightness range.

    The Instant Transfer feature allows data to be transferred automatically to the device whenever the shutter is fired. You can also do this via the touch screen.

    ISO Tests

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    Panasonic Lumix DMC-GF6 ISO 400.JPG

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    Panasonic Lumix DMC-GF6 ISO 1600.JPG

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    Only at ISO 6400 did noise begin to intrude. At ISO 25600 the noise was much higher but resolution held up surprisingly well.

    Panasonic Lumix DMC-GF6 Review Verdict

    Quality: above average with precise colour rendering and fine resolution.

    Why buy the Panasonic Lumix DMC-GF6: budget level entrée into the world of interchangeable lens photography.

    Why not by the Panasonic Lumix DMC-GF6: no viewfinder.

    In other respects I found the camera to be quite spiffy and easy to use. If you’re keen to dip your toe into interchangeable lens photography, want to post process RAW files, shoot decent video etc … this one’s for you!

    The beauty of the GF6 is that you can get around the various modes with great ease. Not too challenging.

    Panasonic Lumix DMC-GF6 Specifications

    Image Sensor: 16 million effective pixels.
    Metering: Multiple, centre-weighted and spot.
    Effective Sensor Size: Four thirds 17.3×13.0mm CMOS.
    Lens Factor: 2x.
    Compatible lenses: Micro Four Thirds.
    Exposure Modes: Auto, Program AE, shutter and aperture priority, manual.
    Shutter Speed: 60 to 1/4000 second; flash sync 1/160 sec.
    Burst Speed: 4.2 fps.
    Memory: SD/SDHC/SDXC cards.
    Image Sizes (pixels): 4592×3448 to 1712×1712. Movies: 1920×1080, 1280x720p, 640×480.
    Viewfinder: 7.6cm LCD screen (1,040,000 pixels).
    File Formats: JPEG, RAW, JPEG+RAW, AVCHD/MPEG4, MPO (3D).
    Colour Space: Adobe RGB, sRGB.
    ISO Sensitivity: Auto, 160 to 12800 (25,600 with boost).
    Interface: USB 2.0, AV, HDMI mini, WiFi, DC input.
    Power: Rechargeable lithium ion battery, AC adaptor.
    Dimensions: 111x65x38 WHDmm.
    Weight: Approx. 323 (inc battery).
    Price: Get a price on the Panasonic DMC-GF6 16MP Mirrorless Compact System Camera with Lens Kit at Amazon.

    Post originally from: Digital Photography Tips.

    Check out our more Photography Tips at Photography Tips for Beginners, Portrait Photography Tips and Wedding Photography Tips.

    Panasonic Lumix DMC-GF6 Review


    Digital Photography School

  • On Assignment: Speedlights, Sync and Sun

    It's a bit of a leap of faith, the first time you head out on an assignment with just an X100s and a couple speedlights. (Ask Zack.) And truth be told, I had a DSLR and a couple lenses with me as backup, just in case.

    But I never brought them out. And with the crazy sync speeds offered by the X100s, a pair of speedlights is all you really need to do battle with late afternoon sun as it turns out.

    Read more »
    Strobist

  • 50 Awesomely Inspiring Tumblr Blogs for Photographers

    More photographers than ever are signing up to Tumblr with its minimalist, sleek design and a plenty of themes which allow you to show off your images in appealing way that other services can offer. But it’s a challenge to find really good Tumblr blogs for photographers worth to follow. To help you along I’ve got together 50 really awesome Continue Reading

    The post 50 Awesomely Inspiring Tumblr Blogs for Photographers appeared first on Photodoto.


    Photodoto

  • How to Create a Beam of Light in a Photo using Photoshop [Video Tutorial]

    Have you ever wanted to create a beam of light in a photo using Photoshop? Me neither – but after watching this tutorial I think I’ve found a little project to try – check it out!

    Post originally from: Digital Photography Tips.

    Check out our more Photography Tips at Photography Tips for Beginners, Portrait Photography Tips and Wedding Photography Tips.

    How to Create a Beam of Light in a Photo using Photoshop [Video Tutorial]


    Digital Photography School

  • An Introduction to Buying Used Lenses

    A Guest Post by Jeff Guyer.

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    Let’s face it– photography is an expensive hobby and an even more expensive profession. Camera bodies, speedlights, reflectors, memory cards, lighting equipment, backdrops, batteries, stands, hard drives, tripods, back-ups, gear bags, hard cases, the latest gizmo or gadget-that-you-seriously-cannot-possibly-live-without…and don’t forget the glass. Next to the camera itself, quality lenses make up the most expensive part of just about any gear closet.

    In an ideal world money would be no object and pesky things like gear budgets would be non-existent, paving the way for me to purchase all of the shiny, brand-new lenses I could possibly want (“Hi, Nikon? I’ll take one of everything!”). The reality, though, is that I have to balance my lust for gear against how many meals my rapidly growing 12-year-old son gets to eat each week. The truth is, the buying and selling of used lenses has almost become an industry unto itself. There are a lot of high-quality second-hand lenses out there, which means you can satisfy your “need” and still save a good bit of money if you’re smart.

    Where to begin? Well, there’s nothing for you to buy if you don’t hook up with…

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    The Right Kind of Seller

    Even though it should go without saying, I’m going to say it. Do your homework! It’s not enough to know everything about WHAT you want. You may have read all about the sweet spot on the Nikkor 24-70 f/2.8, or the minimum focus distance of the Canon 70-200 f/2.8 L-Series, but when you’re getting ready to drop a significant chunk of your hard-earned money on a lens, you need to find out everything you can about the person selling it.

    If you’re contemplating a face-to-face transaction, ask around. Get references or referrals if you can. In this day and age of Facebook, Twitter, and Google+, chances are good that buyer and seller each know someone in common. If you’re buying on ebay, carefully check the seller’s feedback and ratings, particularly the comments. Also take a few minutes to compare the price against other auction sites and even that of a new lens.

    Although I have purchased lenses on ebay with excellent results, it is generally not my first choice. After all, the first time you are going to have the lens in your hands is after you’ve already paid for it. Unless the seller has blatantly lied about the condition, you’re stuck with it (and sometimes even if they have). It’s entirely possible that what has been advertised as “minor wear” is actually a much larger scratch than you’re willing to overlook. I tend to be kind of nitpicky in that department, which just one of the reasons why I recommend buying used lenses in person whenever possible.

    Try buying locally if you can. First, if you and your seller travel in the same circles, you exponentially increase your odds of an honest, above-board transaction. Nobody is going to risk their reputation over a used lens. Another important benefit to purchasing locally is the fact that you can have an actual visual and physical examination of the lens before you buy it. Being able to check it out and– more importantly– put it on a camera and test it are going to be the two most important factors in your decision to actually buy the lens. Never, ever underestimate these advantages.

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    The Physical Exam — What to Look For

    For starters, a quality lens is just going to feel good in your hands. Take a minute or two to look for anything obvious– dings, scratches, or any places where the finish may have rubbed off from excessive or careless use. Are the rubber grips on the zoom and focus rings snug and intact? Do the rings turn smoothly? How are the filter threads? Are switches intact and functioning properly? Only you can decide for yourself how much is too much, but remember that what you see on the outside is usually indicative of the care with which the original owner treated the lens. Also keep in mind that the finish on a quality lens should not rub off, regardless of age and proper use.

    Next check the front element, preferably in bright light. Hold the lens against the light at different angles, checking the glass and coating for any scratches or other imperfections. Some of these imperfections MIGHT not necessarily affect image quality, but they should absolutely be a factor in negotiating the price. If the lens has an aperture ring, open it all the way and try looking straight through it like a telescope. Do you see any dust, mold, or anything else that shouldn’t be inside your potential investment?

    Now turn it around and check the mount. Is it clean? Are there any scratches? Is it bent or seemingly out of alignment in any way? Are the contacts clean and in good condition? Remember that this point of connection is the only thing that lets the camera communicate with the lens. This is where it can all go wrong if you’re not careful. Any of the imperfections discussed so far might not necessarily be deal-breakers, but any problems whatsoever with the mount should be. Just walk away.

    The Fungus Among Us

    If you’ve read enough ebay auctions or classified ads for used lenses, you’ve been assured that the object of your lust and desire is free of not only dust and other particles, but fungus and mold as well. That’s great, but how would you know? The fungus/mold issue comes up most often in the case of older lenses in particularly humid climates. Early stages will resemble those dried water spots on your bathroom mirror, while more advanced stages can look like spider webs. If you see this, do not even think about attaching this lens to your camera. Fungus and mold are living organisms and can spread, both to your camera and other lenses that are subsequently mounted to it.

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    Test It!

    If you’ve purchased used lenses before, chances are you either didn’t test it at all, or if you did test it, you probably took a few random shots in the parking lot where you met the seller to make sure the auto-focus was working and that something actually showed up on your camera’s LCD. Don’t sell this part of the process short. Take a methodical approach.

    You’ve changed lenses enough times to know how it should feel. Does the lens turn smoothly or does it feel like you’re forcing it? Is it too tight? Too loose?

    Now shoot. I’m not talking about two or three shots. I’m talking about 100 shots. To really put this potential purchase through its paces you need to take close, mid-range and far focus images at multiple apertures, and in small increments along the entire zoom range of the lens. Was that spot there at f/16 or only at f/2.8? A problem that shows up at 200mm might not manifest itself at 70mm. Try manual focus. Listen for strange noises. Shoot something dark. Shoot something light. Does the auto-focus sound right? Do you hear anything rattling around inside the lens?

    Check The Images

    Even people who are careful about testing used lenses before they buy them hardly ever think to bring a laptop with them so they can get a good look at the test shots. We all know that the LCD is an unreliable indicator of image quality when we are photographing for our clients, so why should you automatically trust it when you’re about to hand over your cash to a stranger? If the seller really is on the up-and-up they won’t mind sticking around for a few extra minutes while you check the image quality against the only standard that really matters– your own two eyes.

    A Special Note to Vintage/Film Camera Collectors

    When lenses sit unused for an extended period of time, the special oil used to ensure that aperture blades move smoothly can leave shiny spots on the blades and cause them to stick. It will usually be visible on the blades as you adjust the ring, but if the lens has a depth-of-field preview switch, adjust to the smallest aperture and press the DOF preview button. Properly functioning aperture blades will snap smoothly into place without sticking.

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    The Bottom Line

    I know we all love the excitement of opening new boxes from B&H and Adorama. It would be a mistake, however, to avoid well-cared-for lenses just because they’re previously owned. Nikon, Canon, Tamron, Sigma and the others spend a great deal of time and money researching and producing lenses which are made to last. If you take a smart, methodical approach there is no reason why one of these previously used lenses can’t find a valuable, productive spot in your camera bag.

    Jeff Guyer is a photographer based in Atlanta, GA. In addition to shooting portraits, architecture, sports, weddings, and just about anything else that pauses in front of his lens, he also teaches a Digital Photo Challenges class for kids. Follow him on Facebook at http://www.facebook.com/guyerphotography or on Twitter @guyerphoto

    Post originally from: Digital Photography Tips.

    Check out our more Photography Tips at Photography Tips for Beginners, Portrait Photography Tips and Wedding Photography Tips.

    An Introduction to Buying Used Lenses


    Digital Photography School

  • Get A Kick: Photograph Soccer!

    I moved out to the sideline for this shot.  Right around the 18 yard line is a great place to stand and turn back to the goal for the action there. Canon EOS-1D X, EF 200-400 f/4L IS Extender 1.4X. 1/1000, f/5.6, ISO 800.

    I moved out to the sideline for this shot. Right around the 18 yard line is a great place to stand and turn back to the goal for the action there. Canon EOS-1D X, EF 200-400 f/4L IS Extender 1.4X. 1/1000, f/5.6, ISO 800.

    I spent a good portion of my career photographing sports, from children all the way up through the pros. One of the most challenging sports to photograph was soccer (football or futbol if you’re outside North America).  I’ve had colleagues liken it to “photographing a moving tree in a moving forest” because you’re focused on one player, while other players are moving across the frame between you and the subject all the time.  It takes patience and some knowledge of the game to be really good at photographing it.

    This shot was part of a sequence that started with this player making a run with the ball. A few frames prior to this, he was tripped and went airborne along with the ball. I never would have had this frame if I wasn't shooting at 12 fps. Canon EOS-1D X, EF 200-400 f/4L IS Extender 1.4x. 1/1600, f/5.6, ISO 800.

    This shot was part of a sequence that started with this player making a run with the ball. A few frames prior to this, he was tripped and went airborne along with the ball. I never would have had this frame if I wasn’t shooting at 12 fps. Canon EOS-1D X, EF 200-400 f/4L IS Extender 1.4x. 1/1600, f/5.6, ISO 800.

    From behind the end line, you can often capture two players fighting for position on the ball. Canon EOS-1D X, EF 200-400 f/4L IS Extender 1.4x. 1/1000, f/5.6, ISO 400.

    From behind the end line, you can often capture two players fighting for position on the ball. Canon EOS-1D X, EF 200-400 f/4L IS Extender 1.4x. 1/1000, f/5.6, ISO 400.

    Soccer is a fast-moving sport and thus requires your camera to be set a certain way.  I shoot most of my action using Aperture Priority, with the aperture set around f/4 or f/5.6. I want a pretty shallow depth of field so the athletes pop off the background, and so that background objects don’t distract from the subjects.  I then set the ISO to be sure I get a fast enough shutter speed to freeze the action. Generally this means 1/500 minimum.  Faster if you’re using a lens longer the 500mm.   I set my camera’s autofocus system to AI Servo or Continuous (dependent on the brand of camera you use- it means the same thing).  AI Servo or continuous simply means that your camera will focus on the subject and continue to track the subject as it moves towards or away from the camera. Finally, I set my camera’s drive to continuous so that I simply have to press and hold the shutter button to take multiple images. This enables me to take an entire sequence of action, meaning I won’t miss peak action by taking only one shot, or more importantly, I’ll get multiple images to choose from of the play to be sure I get the best shot out of the action.  Note that some cameras have multiple continuous settings, such as continuous low or continuous hi. I suggest getting as many shots as possible and using continuous hi, if you have a choice. For instance, the images accompanying this article were taken using an EOS-1D X, with the drive set to Continuous Hi, which is 12 frames per second.  Realistically, faster is better, but even a consumer camera firing at 4 frames per second can produce outstanding results.

    Unfortunately, soccer is a sport that screams for long glass on your camera. The fields are so large, and the game so spread out, that putting anything less than a 300mm lens on the camera will leave you missing a lot of shots. Truth be told, a 500mm lens is ideal.   I found a lens such as Canon’s EF 200-400 f/4L IS Extender 1.4x to be a great combination as I could zoom in and out and cover things close to me at 200mm, and zoom all the way in when the action moved away. Nikon makes a similar lens, without the 1.4x extender built in.  For more cost-conscious options, lenses such as Canon’s 100-400mm or the many 70-300mm lenses on the market are also good choices.

    When on the field, or pitch as the rest of the world calls it, I have several places I like to stand.  My favorite place is behind the end line, to the side of the goal. This allows me an angle on the goalie when he comes out to make a play, but also gets action coming more or less right at me.  I find it much easier to photograph players running towards me, rather than to try and pan with action moving parallel to me.  When the action is coming to me, I don’t have to work to keep the AF point on the athletes. When I have to pan with the athletes, there’s always the chance I move too fast or too slow and the AF point loses focus.

    I find the combination of speed and physicality to make soccer incredibly rewarding. I love capturing the players fighting for the ball, fighting for position.  I love capturing the emotion as they score a goal, or the dejection of losing a big game. Spending an afternoon at a soccer game provides a ton of great opportunities, so go take advantage of them!

    Occasionally, I'll try something a little different.  I had a lot of standard action from this game, so I decided to switch it up a bit and try some panning. The darker backgrounds lent themselves perfectly to this.  Canon EOS-1D X, EF 200-400 f/4L IS Extender 1.4x.  1/10, f/36, ISO 100.

    Occasionally, I’ll try something a little different. I had a lot of standard action from this game, so I decided to switch it up a bit and try some panning. The darker backgrounds lent themselves perfectly to this. Canon EOS-1D X, EF 200-400 f/4L IS Extender 1.4x. 1/10, f/36, ISO 100.

    Post originally from: Digital Photography Tips.

    Check out our more Photography Tips at Photography Tips for Beginners, Portrait Photography Tips and Wedding Photography Tips.

    Get A Kick: Photograph Soccer!


    Digital Photography School

  • The Winner of $1500 in Camera Gear is….

    A few weeks ago as part of the launch of our new eBook – Photo Magic – we announced we’d be giving one Early Bird buyer of the eBook $ 1500 USD towards a new camera or lens.

    Today we drew that winner and it is… Beverly Everson.

    We’ve just emailed Beverly with details of how we can get that prize to her – Congratulations to Beverly, we look forward to hearing what you put your prize toward!

    Post originally from: Digital Photography Tips.

    Check out our more Photography Tips at Photography Tips for Beginners, Portrait Photography Tips and Wedding Photography Tips.

    The Winner of $ 1500 in Camera Gear is….


    Digital Photography School