Category: Photography

  • Deals for Photographers This Week

    dealsWe all love a bargain! For us here at dPS HQ this was the reason we created SnapnDeals.

    But as much as we’d like to think all the good deals for photographers call  SnapnDeals home, there are many other places to pick yourself up something nice at a great price. So each fortnight we’ll share with you a list of deals we’ve found from all over the web.  Here’s some to get you started …

    • Powerful Imagery: The Photographer’s Insight eBook
      Deal Ends: August 6
      Deal Link: http://snapndeals.com/seller/30-off-powerful-imagery-the-photographers-insight-ebook/
    • The Digital Photographer’s Guide to the Square Format
      Deal Ends: July 25
      Deal Link: http://snapndeals.com/seller/40-off-square-the-digital-photographers-guide-to-the-square-format-ebook/
    • Mastering Photography: A Beginner’s Guide to Using Digital Cameras
      Deal Ends: None
      Deal Link: http://www.andrewsgibson.com/blog/2013/06/mastering-photography-a-beginners-guide-to-using-digital-cameras/
    • Christmas Badge Overlays
      Deal Ends: None
      Deal Link: http://photographypla.net/christmas-badge-overlays/
    • Location Lighting with Speedlights DVD
      Deal Ends: July 25
      Deal Link: http://www.photowhoa.com/dmp_speedlites
    • Beautiful Bokeh e-Book Bundle
      Deal Ends: Available for a limited time
      Deal Link: http://www.photowhoa.com/bokeh_ebook_bundle
    • Sports Badge Overlays
      Deal Ends: None
      Deal Link: http://photographypla.net/sports-badge-overlays/
    • Style + Substance: A Child’s Photographer’s Essential Guide to Styled Session from Skye Hardwick
      Deal Ends: July 20
      Deal Link: http://www.photodealcafe.com/deals/style_guide
    • Montana Skies Cloud Overlays
      Deal Ends: July 20
      Deal Link: http://www.photodealcafe.com/deals/montana_clouds
    • Understanding EOS: A Beginner’s Guide to Canon EOS Cameras
      Deal Ends: July 23
      Deal Link: http://www.photodough.com/deals/understanding_eos

    Know a deal you’d like to be included? Send us an email here.

    Post originally from: Digital Photography Tips.

    Check out our more Photography Tips at Photography Tips for Beginners, Portrait Photography Tips and Wedding Photography Tips.

    Deals for Photographers This Week


    Digital Photography School

  • Awash In Light: High Key Portraiture

    This shot was done using a tradition speedlight setup.  I used 4 speedlights- two on the background with no modifiers, and two in softboxes on the subject.

    This shot was done using a tradition speedlight setup. I used 4 speedlights- two on the background with no modifiers, and two in softboxes on the subject.

    This is the lighting setup used for the first image above. Exposure was f/4, 1/250, ISO 400. The background lights were Canon 430 EX II speedlites, and the main and fill were 580 EX II speedlites.

    This is the lighting setup used for the first image above. Exposure was f/4, 1/250, ISO 400. The background lights were Canon 430 EX II speedlites, and the main and fill were 580 EX II speedlites.

    When shooting portraits, the very first decision I make is what look I’m going for. The answer to that question lies directly in how I want to light the scene.  Generally, I want to evoke a mood or a feeling.  Low key portraiture which has dramatic lighting, tends to be very moody, while high key portraiture will have a more even light, with very few harsh shadows.  High key lighting tends to make the scene much more upbeat.

    The problem with high key lighting is that, indoors, it can be costly to achieve.  First, you need a white or light colored background.  Seamless paper will work best, but I’ve also found that I can get away with flat bedsheets; one hung from a background stand and another on the floor, with the two meeting . When done right the seam can be hidden nicely.  of course, a light colored muslin will work as well.  Once the background is set, you need to light the background evenly.  This requires at least two lights to light it evenly.   Once the background has been lit, you need to light your subject.  Using softbox for the main light and a smaller softbox for the fill, you can adjust the lighting to have some soft shadow on your subject if you prefer, or you even the lighting out if you want to eliminate shadow altogether.  A reflector can also help kick more light into your subject’s face and further soften shadows.

    High key lighting can be also be achieved outdoors, and at lesser cost as well.  If the light is flat and even, a simple metallic reflector can be used to fill any shadows that occur.  I find bright cloudy days perfect for this type of shooting.  By the same token, a sunny day will work well also. A scrim can be used to soften the sunlight on the subject, while the sunlight brightly lights the background and creates that high key look.

    For this shot, I ventured away from the setup above, and used a 50-inch softbox with a Canon 580 EX II speedlite. This was positioned on the far side of the subject- her left. To camera right, I used a large silver reflector to fill the shadows. I used white sheets as a background on the floor to complete the scene.

    For this shot, I ventured away from the setup above, and used a 50-inch softbox with a Canon 580 EX II speedlite. This was positioned on the far side of the subject- her left. To camera right, I used a large silver reflector to fill the shadows. I used white sheets as a background on the floor to complete the scene.

    As far as camera settings go, it’s important to note that a high key image is not simply overexposed. You’ll want to watch your histogram to keep from clipping the highlights, but you will want to keep your exposure to the right on the histogram to ensure that the shows aren’t too deep.  if I’m indoors, I’m using either studio lights or speedlights and using them to generate my exposure.  Outdoors, I’ll shoot on aperture priority and use exposure compensation to push my exposure where I want it, again, careful not to clip the highlights.

    I find high key portraiture a great way to photograph children or adults.  It brings a happy, upbeat mood to the scene, and can also give an edgy look to things.   Ultimately, it will take some experimentation to get the lighting the way you like it, but once you do, it’s another technique in your pocket to work with and use to create images. Happy shooting!

    This shot was taken outdoors. It was a bright day but the sun was diffused by a thin layer of clouds, making it very soft and even.  Canon EOS 1D X, EF 70-200 f/2.8L IS II. 1/320, f/2.8, ISO 200.

    This shot was taken outdoors. It was a bright day but the sun was diffused by a thin layer of clouds, making it very soft and even. Canon EOS 1D X, EF 70-200 f/2.8L IS II. 1/320, f/2.8, ISO 200.

    This was another bright day.  This image was taken at the beach, and a light fog rolled in to diffuse the bright sun. A reflector positioned right next to the camera further softened shadows. Canon EOS 5D Mark III, EF 85mm f/1.2L. ISO 100, 1/8000, f/1.2.

    This was another bright day. This image was taken at the beach, and a light fog rolled in to diffuse the bright sun. A reflector positioned right next to the camera further softened shadows. Canon EOS 5D Mark III, EF 85mm f/1.2L. ISO 100, 1/8000, f/1.2.

    Post originally from: Digital Photography Tips.

    Check out our more Photography Tips at Photography Tips for Beginners, Portrait Photography Tips and Wedding Photography Tips.

    Awash In Light: High Key Portraiture


    Digital Photography School

  • Panasonic Lumix DMC-LF1 Review

    Panasonic Lumix DMC-LF1 Review.jpg

    Over the years I’ve owned a number of digicams just like this one and each has been damned useful. Pop in the pocket. Pull it out. Shoot. And enjoy.

    However, in the last 2-3 years they have become really fearsome beasts with tech specs that ring with power.

    Not only can these more recent arrivals shoot big, big stills but some have enormous zoom ranges and all can shoot Full HD video.

    So who needs a DSLR or a MILC?

    This little number from Panasonic is a good example of shooting power but with a certain finesse.
    Panasonic Lumix DMC-LF1 BACK.jpg

    Panasonic Lumix DMC-LF1 TOP.jpg

    Panasonic Lumix DMC-LF1 Features

    The lens in particular screams quality: an f2 Leica DC Vario-Summicron 7.1x zoom that equates to a 35 SLR optic of 28-200mm range. The only downer is that you cannot enjoy the full f2 all the way through the zoom range; it soon shrinks to f5.9. But it does mean you can enjoy limited focus effects at the f2 aperture.

    Bokeh.JPG

    This shot was made at full wide on the zoom and at f2. Notice the limited depth of field.

    However, it would be easy to miss the standout feature of this diminutive picture maker: beside the large 7.6cm LCD screen at the camera’s rear, there is also an electronic screen tucked away on the camera’s left top corner (as viewed from the rear). This will win many hearts!

    The LF1 offers Wi-Fi connectivity so that users can connect the camera to their smart phone or tablet with one touch to share an image. You can also use a smart phone or tablet as a remote shutter with a monitor.

    The CMOS captures a maximum image size of 4000×3000 pixels, enough to make a 34x25cm print.

    Video can be shot in either AVCHD or MEG4 formats at Full HD 1920×1080 pixel quality. You can shoot stills mid video recording at a reduced size. If you shoot in AVCHD the maximum recording time is 29 minutes and 59 seconds.
    Menu.jpg

    Scene modes.jpg

    Creative Control.jpg

    The control layout is very straightforward:

    Top deck has the viewfinder mentioned earlier, with dioptric adjustment; then there’s the mode dial with positions for intelligent auto, PASM, two custom modes, panorama shooting, scene modes (16 in all) and creative control with 11 settings, including retro, old days, high and low key etc.

    Pano 6.JPG

    Panoramas can be shot laterally and vertically left to right, right to left, up or down and stitched in-camera. With the creative panorama function you can apply filter effects of retro, expressive, high or low key etc. The camera does not shoot horizontally panned panos with the camera held vertically, unlike some other cameras … notably Sony’s.

    Next to the mode dial is the shutter button set within the lever for zooming; the power switch is at the extreme right end.

    Rear: at the extreme left is the button to switch from rear screen to turret viewfinder; next is the WiFi button.

    Beneath it is the video record button, shielded from accidental triggering by a protective slice of leatherette; adjacent is the Function and replay buttons.

    Lower is the four way control dial with positions for macro shooting, exposure compensation, flash options and continuous/self timer. The menu button is central.

    Lower still is a button for display options and one for trash.

    Overall, a good layout but one that is badly let down by all the identifying text being too small, printed in off-white and almost impossible to read in dim light. Why not white text?

    Composition Guide.jpg

    Tap the Function button and you gain access to a rather novel aid: a Composition Guide that makes it easy to shoot a photo with good composition, by choosing from a range of on screen examples: Rule of Thirds Offset, Diagonal Lines, Tunnel etc. A big help for those beset with poor visual acumen. It’s unlikely to prevent cut off heads or feet … but at least your shots will be visually balanced!

    Distortion

    No distortion evident at either the wide or tele ends of the zoom.

    Start Up

    In two seconds from startup you can shoot the first shot; follow-ons nearly as fast as you can hit the button.

    Panasonic Lumix DMC-LF1 ISO Tests

    Panasonic Lumix DMC-LF1 ISO 80.JPG

    Panasonic Lumix DMC-LF1 ISO 400.JPG

    Panasonic Lumix DMC-LF1 ISO 800.JPG

    Panasonic Lumix DMC-LF1 ISO 1600.JPG

    Panasonic Lumix DMC-LF1 ISO 3200.JPG

    Panasonic Lumix DMC-LF1 ISO 6400.JPG

    Panasonic Lumix DMC-LF1 ISO 12800.JPG

    Only at ISO 3200 did noise become apparent. At ISO 6400 overall quality declined while noise increased and odd artefacts appeared. Useable? Maybe.

    At ISO 12800 the shot was unusable.
    Marina.JPG

    (insert Marina)

    Panasonic Lumix DMC-LF1 Review Verdict

    Quality: average.
    Why you’d buy it: small, sufficient zoom range for most purposes; shoot RAW files.
    Why you wouldn’t: LCD screen is not vari-angle.

    A great little number for easy, high quality photography. Available in silver or black.

    Panasonic Lumix DMC-LF1 Specifications

    Image Sensor: 12.1 million effective pixels.
    Metering: Multi zone, centre-weighted, spot.
    Lens: Leica DC Vario-Summicron f2.0-5.9/6.0-42.8mm (28-200mm as 35 SLR equivalent).
    Exposure Modes: Auto, Program AE, shutter and aperture priority, manual.
    Sensor Size: 15mm CMOS.
    Shutter Speed (stills): 60 to 1/4000 second.
    Continuous Shooting: 10 fps.
    Memory: SD/SDHC/SDXC plus 87MB internal memory.
    Image Sizes (pixels): Stills: 4000×3000 to 640×360.
    Movies: 1920×1080, 1280×720, 1440×1080 and 640×480.
    Viewfinder: 7.6cm LCD screen (920,000 pixels).
    File Formats: JPEG, RAW, JPEG+RAW, MPO (3D), AVCHD, MPEG4.
    Colour Space: sRGB, Adobe RGB.
    ISO Sensitivity: Auto, 80 to 12800 (with boost).
    Interface: USB 2.0, HDMI mini, WiFi.
    Power: Rechargeable lithium ion battery, DC input.
    Dimensions: 103x62x28 WHDmm.
    Weight: 192 g (inc battery).
    Price: Get a price on the Panasonic Lumix DMC-LF1 12 MP Digital Camera (White) or Panasonic Lumix DMC-LF (Black).

    Post originally from: Digital Photography Tips.

    Check out our more Photography Tips at Photography Tips for Beginners, Portrait Photography Tips and Wedding Photography Tips.

    Panasonic Lumix DMC-LF1 Review


    Digital Photography School

  • 4 Fun Tricks to Enhance Your Photos With Lightroom’s Graduated Filter Tool

    A few weeks ago I shared some key tips on how to get a lot out of Lightroom by using only a handful of sliders and while this is a great place to start eventually you’ll want to get a bit more creative with the software. Today I’m going to show you four different things that you can accomplish by using Lightroom’s Graduated Filter tool.

    4 Creative Ways to Use Lightroom’s Graduated Filter

    Split White Balance – This technique can be a powerful one when trying to get some interesting colors out of the sky, but retaining the natural colors of the earth. In the photo below I’ve added some pinks and purples to the sky, but was able to retain the natural green color of the grass.

    whitebalanceb&a  

    How I Did It – The graduated filter was dropped in from the top and rests just above the horizon line. I then made adjustments to the temperature and tint sliders until I was happy with the colors. Note: if there are objects that fall within your graduated filter’s effected zone you can correct it by using the adjustment brush and adjusting the tint & temp sliders locally for that specific area.

    Direct the Light – By applying multiple filters to your photo you can create spot light like effects, leading lines and even your own very customizable vignette effect like seen below.

    directing eyes

    How I Did It – Here I’ve dropped in four different filters which all work together to create the final effect. There are two that are pulled in from the sides of the frame to drop the exposure of the edges. Then I dropped one in from the top and placed it almost at the bottom of the frame I use this one to increase the exposure of the overall photo excluding the very bottom of the frame. However, once this one was applied the top of the frame was over exposed so I then apply one more filter, again dropped in from the top, but placed towards the middle of the frame. This time I drop the exposure to cancel the effect of the previous filter and thus create the vignette effect. Yikes that was a mouthful!

    Soften Your Borders – Sometimes you might want to soften the borders of your photo to draw in more attention to the center of the frame.

    soft borders

    How I Did It – This is a fairly simple process of dropping two filters in one from each side of the photo and then reducing the sharpness and clarity on both of them to -100. This effectively blurs out the sides of the frame and draws your attention to the middle.

    Create a B&W to Color Transition – A very cool effect can be the black and white to color transition. It’s  not something that’s going to be used on every photograph you produce, but when you do use it it will often get people to look twice.

    Black & White Color

    How I Did It – The black and white to color transition is done by using one single graduated filter and dropping the saturation to -100. It’s up to you where you want it placed and how dramatic you’d like the transition to be – a narrow filter makes for a more dramatic transition.

    For Those Who Prefer Video

    If you’re anything like me it is so much easier to learn this kind of thing when things are in motion and therefore I’ve included a video which walks you through everything I talked about above, plus a few other Lightroom goodies as well. Enjoy!

    Post originally from: Digital Photography Tips.

    Check out our more Photography Tips at Photography Tips for Beginners, Portrait Photography Tips and Wedding Photography Tips.

    4 Fun Tricks to Enhance Your Photos With Lightroom’s Graduated Filter Tool


    Digital Photography School

  • Composing Dynamic Landscape Images

    A Guest Post by Todd Sisson from www.sisson.co.nz.

    As a landscape photographer I am constantly seeking that next X-factor shot – an image that leaps from the screen or page and demands the viewer’s attention – preferably attention of the favourable variety.

    If you spend an hour or two on a photosharing site like Flickr viewing landscape images in un- curated groups you will note that a very small percentage of the total image population stands out from the crowd.

    However, if you view a carefully curated collection of top-shelf landscape images you will probably start to notice some themes appearing. Certain visual cues and devices appear across multiple images – there will often be subtle commonalities between these attention hogging photos.

    In many instances these images will possess the qualities of what I consider a dynamic landscape image.

    What is a Dynamic Landscape Image?

    Summer Storm, Queenstown New Zealand. An example of a dynamic landscape image. To maximise the number of dynamic elements in this image I locked this composition off in the field and shot multiple images. The best of about five wave-action frames were then blended together to form the final image.

    There is no dictionary entry that defines a Dynamic Landscape Image* – heck, there’s not even a Wikipedia entry – so it is a somewhat personal interpretation.

    To my mind, a dynamic landscape image is one that in some way conveys the energy and scale of the natural world. Dynamic images also often seek to breach the confines of their 2D medium by inferring a sense of depth – many truly dynamic image have an almost 3D quality about them.

    *As far as I am aware, the term Dynamic Landscape was first popularised by the late Galen Rowell – one of the most influential American landscape photographers of his generation. Rowell used the term to demarcate his work from the somewhat literal colour landscape photography that dominated the early 1970′s. Although he was certainly not the only photographer employing these principles in his work, he appears to have been an excellent self-promoter and the term is somewhat synonymous with his name.

    Dynamic Composition

    Composition is the backbone of all great photos – dynamic or otherwise – but it is essential in the creation of a truly strong landscape image.

    I feel that the goal of a successful composition is to draw the eye into image and hold it there for as long as possible – which is seemingly, a maximum 15 milliseconds these days*. The following image is an example of an image that I feel achieves this objective.

    Sunrise Over The Moeraki Boulders, Otago New Zealand. Seascapes lend themselves to the creation of dynamic landscape images.

    This image combines all of the elements that I feel comprise a Dynamic Landscape Image:

    • Leading or converging lines
    • Interesting perspective
    • Visually interesting foreground elements
    • Visually interesting mid-ground & background elements
    • Vivid colour or incredible light
    • Vision-locking tonal control
    • Suggestion of movement

    It is important to note that not all dynamic landscape images possess all of these factors. In fact, it is depressingly rare to have it all come together in one moment. It must also be stated that what follows is not a recipe for creating great images. Photography can only be practised as an art when personal interpretation is injected into the process – only use this information as a guideline for evolving your own images.

    So let’s have a very quick look at each of these Dynamic Landscape factors.

    Leading Lines & Converging Lines

    One of the simplest ways to draw a viewer’s attention into an image is to use converging or leading lines. Converging lines have been used by painters for centuries to create the illusion of depth within a 2 dimensional medium.

    This is why photos of wharves, roads, and rivers make such successful photographic subjects. Although many consider such subjects to be cliches, I strongly council my workshop students to shoot them heavily to build an awareness of the power of a line in an image.

    Leading lines not only draw attention into the image, they can also help to hold the eye within the confines of the image.

    Check out the crudely overlaid wharf image below combines the strong converging lines of the wharf with secondary supporting lines in the water, hills and clouds.

    Look for these lines whenever you are shooting – they are almost everywhere.

    The Wharf at Frankton, Queenstown New Zealand. Shoot ‘cliched’ subjects like wharves and roads until it hurts a little. The pain is just your visual muscles growing stronger. Shooting man-made lines will teach you to look for more subtle lines in nature.

    Although the wharf is the primary leading line device in this image there are a number of leading lines present in the water, hills and clouds. The darker reflected lines in the water help hold the eye in the central region of the frame.

    Interesting Perspective

    As a photographer you are an artist not a forensic documentarian. You get paid the mega-bucks and live the champagne lifestyle to show your audience something a little different – that is your raison d’être.

    Hence I rarely find myself shooting at my natural standing position. For some reason, compositions seem to get more dynamic the closer you are to the ground/mud/ snow/ice-encrusted cow turd – it’s just the way it is.

    This is especially apparent when using an ultra-wide lens. Subject matter becomes incredibly diminutive and interesting leading lines really lose their visual power when viewed from 5 or 6 feet high – so try getting uncomfortably close and low.

    Aim high also. Look for ways to gain elevation to find that privileged viewpoint – I find that this often works really well when shooting telephoto lengths for some reason. Try scrambling up banks, standing on cars and sitting on your wife’s/husband’s shoulders (sans tripod) in an effort to find an interesting perspective.

    Paddock Bay, Lake Wanaka New Zealand. Getting uncomfortably low in this instance dramatically altered the perceived form of the rock on the lower right of the frame. B y moving about I was able to create the satisfying impression of the rock 'interlocking' with the reflection. Note the strong leading line formed here also.

    Foreground Elements

    I believe that a dynamic image almost always possesses a strong foreground element, or elements, that complement the greater scene.

    Take a sunset/sunrise for example. Sure, spectacular light makes for great images, but personally photos that contain nothing but vast expanses of super-saucy red clouds do little to engage me as a viewer.

    The best dynamic images typically have a strong point of interest in the lower half, or foreground. This is your visual entree into an image. If your foreground element happens to include leading lines you are quite possibly onto the much vaunted money-shot.

    Lupin(e)s, Fiordland New Zealand. Yeah, this is cheating – foreground elements don’t come much easier than this. That aside, keen observers will note the subtle converging lines formed out of the lupin pattern. This was accentuated by deliberately placing a bloom in each corner and leaving a little empty space at the bottom of the frame. Sunstars make an exceptional background element (segues niftily to my next point)

    Visually interesting Background Elements

    I often compose back to front. Firstly I will find the subject of my image, say a spectacular sunset playing out on mountains, and then I will run around like a deranged prison escapee in search of a foreground element to complement the background.

    It is very much a balancing act – defining who or what element gets to play the lead role in your composition. Ideally the background is where the eye should gravitate to and the foreground should pick up a gong for best supporting actor.

    Milford Sound, Fiordland New Zealand. The star of this image is the dramatic light playing out in the clouds over the eye- catching form of Mitre Peak – the foreground & mid ground elements are critical supporting parts of the whole composition but don't hog the lime-light.

    Unusually, I didn’t scramble to find a foreground element for this image – I staggered. Four minutes earlier I had been happily sleeping in the back of my truck – my alarm went off and I saw this – panic ensued….

    Vivid Colour or Incredible Light

    By now it should be obvious that I have some un-checked colour-dependancy issues. I love colour*, especially natural light shows. However, I feel that vivid colour needs to be kept in balance and be a part of the overall composition. Too often I see images that rely solely upon dollops of super- saturated colour.

    For a dynamic landscape image to work, balance must prevail. Hence I attempt to avoid filling the frame with too much colour (yes, there is such a thing – see below).

    *I am even partial to the American version – colour.

    Sunrise from Mt Taranaki / Egmont, New Zealand. In this image the main act was the rapidly dissipating beams of sunrise goodness and the rich colour in the clouds. Lens choice and composition mean that the sunrise colour is just one component of the image. I often like to keep dark forms in my images (anathema to the HDR readers amongst you) as a counterpoint to the extreme lightness of a sunset/sunrise. I find the dark hills here quite mysterious in contrast to the sunstar and clouds.

    Too much colour. This was one of the most intense sunrises that I have ever witnessed. I should have just sat and enjoyed it – this is just too much colour for my tastes – it looks un-realistic. This shot has actually been partially de-saturated in an effort to tame the colour.

    Vision-locking Tonal Control

    I am tempted to trademark this term – it sounds like a mind-control experiment deployed by shady branches of the US intelligence community.

    Basically all I am referring to is the phenomenon of vignetting.

    The eye is drawn towards lightness within an image, particularly near the centre of frame. Furthermore, the eye is restrained by darkness at the edges of the frame.

    When employed deftly, the viewer’s eye is gently drawn into the image by lightness and held there by the darker edges of the image.

    Look at all of the images above and you will see this technique in use. Often this happens in- camera just by virtue of the composition and through use of ND grad filters. However, I will often darken the top edge of an image in post and even add a subtle vignette as the last thing I do. Weird Cloud formation & Road to Nowhere. Alexandra New Zealand. In order to achieve vision-lock here I painted in a brighter layer near the central portion of the image. A little vignetting was added to further enhance the effect.

    Suggested Motion

    Suggested motion, by way of blur or frozen motion is not always an achievable, or desirable, element to utilise within an image – but it can add another layer of dynamism to a composition.

    Don’t just get locked into shooting long exposures either – frozen, or partially-frozen motion can convey movement just as well as a long exposure in some circumstances (see the first image, Summer Storm, for an example of this).

    Moeraki Boulder, Otago New Zealand. Long Exposure motion blur creates a dynamic tension between the static boulder and the relentless sea. Note the other dynamic ingredients added to this image – interesting perspective, use of colour, vision-lock, foreground/background interest.

    Can Dynamic Landscape Images be B&W?

    Absolutely. There are many thousands of truly incredible B&W dynamic landscape images. No style renders texture and contrast better than B&W – at it’s best it is magnificent.

    In order to compensate for their ‘lost’ colour Black & Whiters will often apply industrial grade quantities of Vision Locking Tonal Control (that’s why vignette sliders to go -100) and rely heavily upon strong graphical elements such as leading lines (you will find a lot of B&W photos of wharves and sewerage pipes heading out to sea).

    I would show you an example of this, but I am mono-challenged. If you want to see B&W Dynamic landscapes at their best check out the work of Mitch Dobrowner & Hengki Koentjoro.

    So Are All Good Landscape Images ‘Dynamic’?

    Not at all. Stunning images can be made by avoiding almost all of the techniques that I have just espoused in this essay. Dynamic Landscape composition is just one style of landscape photography.

    In fact, many of my favourite images by others are beautifully composed static, flat compositions. These ‘static’ images respectfully comply with the two dimensional constraints of the photographic medium and rely upon a separate set of visual devices in order to ‘succeed’.

    If they will have me back here at DPS, these static landscapes will be the topic of my next blog post.

    Todd & Sarah Sisson are full-time landscape photographers based in Central Otago New Zealand.

    Their work can be found as fine art prints & canvas prints at www.sisson.co.nz Todd also offers private and group photographic tuition. They can be found on facebook, Google Plus and twitter.

    Post originally from: Digital Photography Tips.

    Check out our more Photography Tips at Photography Tips for Beginners, Portrait Photography Tips and Wedding Photography Tips.

    Composing Dynamic Landscape Images


    Digital Photography School

  • Get Any Weird Emails From Me Lately?

    My email was hacked. Sorry. It’s a known (and fairly widespread and persistent) browser exploit attacking Yahoo accounts.

    I apologize to anyone affected. Still putting out fires today, and trying to get to the bottom of it. That said, if I appear to have sent you a link via email, please don’t click on it. Even if it is for the really good manhood pills.

    -30-


    Strobist

  • On Assignment: Drug Intervention

    Tuesday was reasonably tense. I photographed a breakup, a drug intervention, a high school cafeteria fight and a few other iffy situations.

    All in all, a very enjoyable afternoon. And it will probably change the way I approach my portraiture going forward.

    Read more »
    Strobist

  • How to Use Leading Lines for Better Compositions

    A leading line paves an easy path for the eye to follow through different elements of a photo. Usually they start at the bottom of the frame and guide the eye upwards and inwards, from the foreground of the image to the background, typically leading toward the main subject.

    The easiest place to find a leading line is on a road. Roadways are inherently leading because they go somewhere, give us a feeling of motion, and the lines often point so far inwards that they reach a vanishing point – the place where two or more lines converge into theoretical infinity.

    Avenue of Oaks, South Carolina, by Anne McKinnell

    The leading lines of the road converge to create a sense of infinity.

    When leading lines, such as roads, connect the foreground to the background of a scene, they help to create depth and dimensionality which draws the viewer into the image.

    Leading lines are all around us in cities and in nature. Your job as the photographer is to find them and arrange them in your photograph so that they lead towards something, even if that something is infinity.

    Sunset at Ross Bay, Victoria, British Columbia, by Anne McKinnell

    The logs on the beach draw the viewer’s eye into the frame and lead up to the house.

    When you’re setting up a shot, take a moment to examine the scene for its prominent lines. Clear your mind, relax your eyes, and notice where they are naturally drawn to.

    Pay special attention to man-made things such as:

    • roads
    • fences
    • boardwalks
    • bridges
    • bricks
    • anything in a row such as lamp posts
    • buildings
    • doorways
    • window panes

    In nature, pay particular attention to:

    • rivers
    • shorelines
    • waves
    • sand dunes
    • trees
    • tall grass
    • cliffs
    • rocks
    • sun rays
    Boquillas Canyon by Anne McKinnell

    The soft leading line of the river’s edge creates depth in the image.

    Once you’ve identified your strongest lines, consider how you can use them to enhance your composition. Depending on your intention, you might:

    • create depth and perspective by positioning a strong line leading from the foreground to the background;
    • create a visual journey from one part of your image to another;
    • place your subject where the lines converge to give the subject more importance in the frame and draw the viewer’s attention directly to it; or
    • make a cyclical composition, with the lines leading the eye in a circular motion and never out of the frame.

    Arranging the elements in the frame may involve the use of different lenses to change perspective, but usually you can accomplish it simply by moving yourself so that the point of view you choose is purposeful.

    Japanese Garden by Anne McKinnell

    The leading line of the path leads the eye directly to the maple tree.

    Leading lines are the key compositional element that carries our eye through the photograph. They can be used to tell a story, to place emphasis, and to draw a connection between two objects.

    Use them creatively and with expressive purpose to help you tell your unique photographic tale.

    Post originally from: Digital Photography Tips.

    Check out our more Photography Tips at Photography Tips for Beginners, Portrait Photography Tips and Wedding Photography Tips.

    How to Use Leading Lines for Better Compositions


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  • 44 Inspiring Photo Blogs for Photography Lovers

    Over the last few years photo blogging has exploded in popularity. Therefore, there is tons of great content all over the web, especially when it comes to fashion blogs, travel blogs, and crowdsourced photo sites. Photo blogs are easy to set up and maintain. Moreover, they make awesome photo galleries for photographers which are put off by the complexity of Continue Reading

    The post 44 Inspiring Photo Blogs for Photography Lovers appeared first on Photodoto.


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  • 3 Tips for Creating Outstanding Portraits, Inspired by the work of Dutch Artist Van Gogh

    A Guest Post by Oded Wagenstein

    Few months ago I visited the Metropolitan Museum of Art in NYC. Upon arriving there, I immediately ran to see the work of the artist who influenced me the most: Vincent Van Gogh; the artist who changed the way we look at color as a tool for telling stories; an artist who had nothing in his pockets but had a never-ending passion for creativity and innovation.

    In this post I decided to share some work methods and tips that I have learned from the portraits of this great artist. Methods I TRY, just try, to apply in my work as well.

    3 Things I learned about Portrait Photography from Vincent Van Gogh’s Work

    Tip 1: Use Light as a Tool for Telling Stories in Your Portraits:

    You can treat “light” in one of the two ways below:

    • Something that just illuminate your subjects. An existing fact, which you cannot control
    • A creative tool. Something to be aware of, as being aware of the lens or the camera you are using

    Source of Inspiration

    Notice how the light affects the story in this drawing of a Peasant from Nuenen.

    Vincent van Gogh Head of a Young Peasant in a Peaked Cap

    The choice to create the peasant’s portrait at night (or a dark room) under the pale light of a single bulb, which forms many shadows on his face, strengthens the dark feeling coming from this image- a feeling of a hard working man. You can imagine that creating the portrait of the same guy, in daylight, in an open space, would create a completely different story.

    My Interpretation:

    F11A3438
    In this image of Apollo-mo, a 61 years old farmer and village shaman from the Akha community in Laos, I tried to create the same “hard working” feel as in the “Peasant from Nuenen”. I chose to capture Apollo indoor (keeping him also very compressed inside the frame) with this dark background and dramatic, single source light coming from his right side, creating very deep shadows on his face. Of course I could photograph Apollo at any other time: Laughing with his family and grandchildren, working under the soft light of the sunset and so on. Yet,I chose to show him as I perceived him – as a hard working man with a difficult life story.That’s exactly what I wanted the viewer to feel.

    Tip 2: Harnessing the Power of Complementary Colors

    Van Gogh’s use of color was groundbreaking and many books and theses already examined the issue in depth. What I would like to present here is a small fraction of his approach on color: Understanding the power of complementary colors.

    You can think of the complementary colors (and this is going to be a very shallow way of putting it) as two colors, sitting side by side, and by doing so, creating a great impact on the viewers.

    Color star en svg

    Van Gogh often used complementary colors in his works. Green and red, orange and blue, purple and yellow – he’s done it all.

    In my work, I try to keep this principle of complementary colors in mind.

    Source of inspiration:

    Van gogh

    My interpretation:
    Red and green or orange and blue are working together to create a stronger portrait.

    Monk

    Tip 3: The Power of the “Off Camera” Gaze

    In Most portraits, either photographs or paintings, the person looks straight at the viewer. Van Gogh’s work taught me that sometimes, when a person is looking “off camera”, it can give my image some sort of natural feeling, sometimes melancholic, yet always powerful.

    Source of inspiration:

    409px Van Gogh 2

    The artist made this painting during the last months of his life. And although the situation appears seemingly nice (woman standing in a field) the sadness and hardship is certainly present, mainly due to the off camera gaze.

    My interpretation:
    So when I want to convey a feeling of hardship or sadness I will try to capture my subject in an unguarded moment, looking off camera.

    Woman in field A

    This off course can be done only if you get a good relationship with your subject, enabling you to work in a close distance and still be “transparent”.

    I will not tell the subject what to do (“now, look off-camera and act sexy”). I will just wait for the right time to click the shutter.

    Conclusions

    Using light as a creative tool: Try to match the story you want to tell to the light being used. One possibility is to control the light: flash, reflectors, etc. the more simple option is to just choose the right time to shoot. Dramatic story? Choose a time when there is a harsh or dramatic lighting situation. A story about the happy moments in life? Let your light to convey this feeling by working in a soft, full of color light, like in the golden time (before sunset or right after sunrise)

    Watch for complementary colors: in order to create powerful portraits.

    Think about the subject’s looking direction as a creative tool: Sometimes an off camera gaze can give your story outstanding emotional impact.

    The story of Vincent van Gogh Is sour – sweet. On one hand, an artist whose paintings are known by everyone and sold today for millions of dollars. On the other hand, an artist who had a great financial and emotional struggle over his life-time.

    Oded Wagenstein is a Travel photographer and writer. He is a regular contributor to the National Geographic Traveler magazine (Israeli Edition) and he is known for his intimate culture portraits. You can join his Portrait & Travel Photography blog and continue to discuss on travel and people photography and get more amazing tips!

    Post originally from: Digital Photography Tips.

    Check out our more Photography Tips at Photography Tips for Beginners, Portrait Photography Tips and Wedding Photography Tips.

    3 Tips for Creating Outstanding Portraits, Inspired by the work of Dutch Artist Van Gogh


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