Category: Photography

  • Weekly Photography Challenge – Landscape

    photography, tips, apps, landscape, iOS, Android, Pete DeMarco

    Landscape image by  © Pete DeMarco

    Weekly Photography Challenge – Landscape

    Landscape is one of the most popular genres of photography. So it should be easy to participate in this week’s photography challenge. Show us your favorite landscape photos, use all your skills and techniques to make the best images possible.

    Here are links to a few articles if you need help:

    • 6 of the Best Smartphone Apps for Travel and Landscape Photography
    • 5 Composition Tips for Landscape Photography
    • The dPS Ultimate Guide to Landscape Photography
    • Tips for Processing Landscape Photos – from Basic Edits to Artistic Interpretation
    • How to Process a Black and White Landscape Photo Using Lightroom

    Share your images below:

    Simply upload your shot into the comment field (look for the little camera icon in the Disqus comments section) and they’ll get embedded for us all to see or if you’d prefer, upload them to your favorite photo-sharing site and leave the link to them. Show me your best images in this week’s challenge. Sometimes it takes a while for an image to appear so be patient and try not to post the same image twice.

    Photo by Rob Bates on Unsplash

    Share in the dPS Facebook Group

    You can also share your images on the dPS Facebook group as the challenge is posted there each week as well.

    The post Weekly Photography Challenge – Landscape by Darlene Hildebrandt appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • Review of Macphun’s Aurora HDR 2018

    HDR, or High Dynamic Range, photography is a technique that has been around for decades but really started making waves in the modern digital imaging scene around 2005. It involves combining multiple exposures of a picture, usually taken with a technique known as bracketing, to create one final single image with bright parts that are not overexposed and dark parts that are not underexposed.

    Review of Macphun's Aurora HDR 2018

    In recent years the software required to do this has gotten more powerful, less expensive, and so much easier to use. With just a few clicks anyone can make beautiful HDR images. Aurora HDR 2018 is the latest arrival in this category, created by Macphun, a developer rooted in photography and digital image manipulation. It’s a program that caters to casual users who want a fun creative outlet while also meeting the demands of professionals who make their living from designing beautiful works of photographic art.

    If you want a single program that can handle all your HDR needs no matter your skill level, Aurora HDR 2018 may be just the tool for you.

    What is HDR photography?

    HDR photography is all about getting the best of both worlds when taking photos, particularly of static subjects like landscapes or architecture. If you’re taking a picture with extraordinary bright spots like a sunrise or sunset, you can expose for the highlights (i.e. the bright spots) which mean the dark parts get really dark and underexposed.

    Alternatively, you can expose for the shadows (i.e. the dark spots) which leave the bright parts extra bright and overexposed. HDR photos are created when a photographer takes multiple shots, usually three or more, of the same scene: one underexposed, one properly exposed, and one overexposed. Then software such as Lightroom, Photoshop, Photomatix, and others can be used to combine all the images into a single picture that has detail in both the highlights and the shadows.

    Before and after image showing what is possible with HDR.

    How Aurora HDR is different

    Compared to other offerings on the market, Aurora HDR’s brilliance lies in its simplicity. It’s far easier to use and just as capable as other HDR applications, and also very competitive in terms of its pricing. (Unlike some other apps, it’s available as a one-time purchase instead of with a monthly subscription.) When you open the program you are greeted with one large button that lets you load a single image or multiple exposures of the same image, which is all you need to do to get started. If you dig just a bit deeper you will notice two additional options: Batch Processing and Load Sample Images.

    The former is useful if you want to quickly apply specific HDR processes and presets to many images at one time. While this can be useful if you have several images to go through I don’t recommend it for beginning users.

    Aurora HDR 2018’s bread and butter is the incredible degree of control it gives you over the entire process of creating a High Dynamic Range image. This is where most people will get the maximum value out of the software.

    What’s New in Aurora HDR 2018

    Whether you are new to the world of creating HDR images with Aurora or are a longtime user of this software, many of the changes in the 2018 version will bring significant improvements to your workflow. The program has been rewritten from the ground up to focus on things like speed improvements, better RAW image handling, and a more user-friendly interface.

    There is now a History panel which lets you see all the edits you have made to an image, and functions very much like the same option in programs such as Lightroom, which many photographers already use. The 2018 version also adds a Lens Corrections Tool and a host of other minor but noticeable tweaks while keeping the bedrock foundation of powerful yet easy-to-use HDR tools for professionals and beginners alike.

    The lens correction tool is a welcome addition to the 2018 version.

    These types of improvements mean a lot to me as a longtime Aurora HDR user since it sends the message that Macphun is committed to developing its apps. I’ve been burned before by companies that stop iterating on software I have come to rely on, such as Apple’s Aperture editing program, but it’s clear that Macphun is not going to leave photographers high and dry.

    They have been making software for over a decade and are now even releasing some of their more popular programs for Windows users as well, including Aurora HDR 2018. It’s nice to see this commitment to continual improvement from developers, and it’s one of the reasons I enjoy using Macphun software so much.

    Aurora HDR 2018 is open for pre-ordering now and will be available for purchase September 28th. Get more info here.

    Other new features in Aurora HDR 2018 include:

    • A Transform Tool
    • Dodge & Burn Filter
    • Image flip and rotate
    • HDR Details Boost Tool
    • Rewritten tone-map engine to deliver more natural initial results
    • HDR Enhancer
    • Improved HDR Structure
    • Additional Blend modes

    Getting started with Aurora HDR

    If you are new to HDR processing and don’t know where to begin, click on Load Sample Images and you’re off to the races. The program will show you thumbnail previews of three separate pictures: one underexposed by two stops, one properly exposed, and one overexposed by two stops. When the program combines all three it will essentially give you a stunning HDR photo that you can then tweak and edit to your liking using a myriad of controls, filters, and effects.

    Using your own JPEGs instead of the sample images results in a similar process, with Aurora HDR 2018 loading thumbnails of your images before you confirm that you want to proceed with combining them.

    While using a tripod is ideal for creating perfect bracketed photos, sometimes horizon lines and other elements within the picture may be slightly misaligned. Click the Alignment button to have the program automatically correct for that. Additional Settings gives you options such as removing chromatic aberration and moving objects that might have changed position between each shot.

    Keen dPS readers might be wondering whether Aurora works with RAW files, and thankfully they are fully supported by the program as well. You can work with one properly-exposed RAW file or use multiple bracketed RAW files to get even more room to experiment when creating your HDR images. The 2018 version includes a complete retooling of the RAW handling engine which results in improved color rendition and accuracy, which is a welcome change from previous iterations of the software.

    Tools and first impressions

    Once you have your pictures loaded into the main interface, creating a stunning HDR image can be as simple or as complex as you’d like. This is another aspect of Aurora HDR that I really enjoy. I have used other programs and workflows to do the same basic task of combining multiple exposures into a single image, none are as simple and yet as powerful as this program.

    The interface might seem overwhelming at first but after a few minutes, I felt right at home. The non-destructive nature of the editing meant that I soon felt free to experiment with all sorts of different presets, sliders, and options without ruining anything.

     

    Workflow

    From a workflow standpoint, Aurora HDR 2018 is designed to be quick, efficient, flexible, and familiar to those who have used other image editors.

    When I edit photos in Lightroom I usually head straight for the sliders on the right-hand side to tweak parameters like white balance, exposure, clarity, and sharpness. Aurora HDR 2018 gives you many of those same options. However, I have found that it is more efficient to start with a preset and then edit from there, much in the same way that Lightroom allows you to click a preset such as Aged Photo, Bleach Bypass, or Antique Black and White.

    Using these presets in Lightroom just applies pre-determined values to various sliders like saturation, grain, clarity, and color which you are then free to change as much as you want. Aurora HDR 2018 works in exactly the same way. Choosing a preset like Foggy Morning, Realistic Dreamy, or Sleepy Forest results in nothing more than changing the values of Tools sliders on the right-hand side of the screen which you are then free to alter as desired.

    Review of Macphun's Aurora HDR 2017

    Some of Aurora HDR presets previewed at the bottom of the screen inside the program.

    Aurora plays nicely with most other image editors on the market including Lightroom and Photoshop. You can easily use it as a plug-in which means you can do all your normal work in Lightroom, then quickly send an image over to Aurora HDR for additional editing, and save it right back to Lightroom when you’re done.

    Aurora HDR presets

    If you have ever used Instagram’s photo filters you will feel right at home in Aurora HDR. In a way, you can think of the program like an extraordinarily powerful version of that rather basic social sharing app.

    Once your photos are loaded you can click on a preset (each of which shows a small preview of how your final image will look) and then save your photo with no additional work or hassle required. The presets are even subdivided into categories like Basic, Dramatic, Landscape, and a few that were designed with input from professional photographers like Trey Ratcliff, Captain Kimo, and Serge Ramelli.

    I must admit I don’t actually use Instagram filters because I find them to be distracting and unhelpful for my own style of photography, but I rather liked using Aurora HDR’s presets even though some were a bit too over-the-top for my taste.

    You can take things one step further if you like, and create your own custom presets which can also be applied to any HDR image. This has come in handy for me on several occasions when I wanted to combine options from a few existing presets, tweak the values of a preset, or just create my own from scratch.

    Simple interface

    On the right side of the interface is a list of all the various tools used by Aurora HDR to control the parameters of your image. Some of them like Color, Tone Curve, and HSL will feel right at home if you have used Lightroom, Photoshop, or other image editors as these contain the same basic sliders you would expect.

    When you click on a preset at the bottom of the screen the name of the tools used by that preset are highlighted in orange, which I found to be highly useful during the editing process. Since I knew immediately which values were being changed I could then use that as a starting point for my own experimentation which often led me down a rabbit hole of creativity that I didn’t expect but always enjoyed.

    The only issue I had when experimenting with presets and sliders is that the program does tend to slow down when processing your changes, though this is much less noticeable in the 2018 version. While you still get a preview of what your edits will look like I did encounter several times when the “Image Processing…” alert would show up in the lower-left corner a bit more often than I would have liked.

    Before and after mode

    As you make changes, whether through presets or changing the values in individual Tools sliders, you can easily see how your work is progressing by using the Before/After view which I found to be handy. Clicking on this option gives you a vertical bar that you can slide back and forth to reveal the original image on one side and your changes on the other. You can also hold the \ key to quickly see the complete original and then release it to return to the current version with your edits.

    Before and After slider in action showing how your edits are affecting the image.

    It’s this sort of editor-centric workflow design that I really appreciated about Aurora HDR 2018. It makes the whole process of creating and editing an HDR image as straightforward as possible and easy to understand. I have used some programs where I felt hopelessly lost as if I had to change my own mindset and wrap my head around how the program wanted me to function.

    With Aurora HDR it feels like the program was designed to meet my needs and my style. I never had one of those all-too-common moments of panic when I couldn’t remember where a critical button or tool was located or figure out how to replicate something I did a week ago.

    Professional features and masking

    Once you dig deeper into Aurora HDR 2018 you will find tools that appeal to even highly demanding artists who want precision control over their creations. A collection of edits such as applying a preset and then tweaking additional Tools sliders can be saved as a Layer, and then additional Layers can be added on top of it similar to Photoshop.

    Masks

    Masks can also be used on layers. You can even apply them with a brush tool which I found extraordinarily useful if there was a preset or set of edits that I just wanted to apply to a single portion of an image. If you want to get really specific with your editing you can even apply masks based on ten discrete levels of luminosity (luminosity mask), which means your adjustments will be implemented only on the brightest or darkest portions of the image instead.

    Layer masks can also be applied as radial or linear gradients which can be very useful depending on the type of HDR image you are creating. And just like Photoshop and other image editors, your changes are non-destructive so you can revert back to any editing state any time you choose. You can also return to your edits if you save your file in the native Aurora HDR format before exporting to JPG, TIFF, or another file type.

    Review of Macphun's Aurora HDR 2017

    Blend modes

    New in Aurora HDR 2018 you can also change the layer blend mode. Here it is applied to a layer that is applying selective darkening and lightening to specific areas of the image using the new Dodging and Burning Tool.

    The Dodge and Burn Tool has been used to lighten the little cottage and bridge and part of the hill, and to darken the sky and parts of the reflection in the water.

    Use the little Eye Icon to turn the effect on and off to see a Before and After.

    New in Aurora HDR 2018 – Blend Modes! The default is Normal. Notice with this image the colors have become more saturated after dodging and burning.

    By switching to Luminosity Blend Mode the colors are preserved and appear more natural.

    Batch processing

    One final arrow in Aurora HDR’s rather considerable quiver, which I briefly mentioned earlier, is the ability to quickly apply presets and other defined values to a batch of images. This saves you an enormous amount of time if you have dozens or even hundreds of photos that you want to edit at the same time, using the program’s built-in presets or your own custom ones.

    I do wish the Batch Processing option allowed users to specify parameters on a tool-by-tool basis to combine presets with other options like Structure and HDR Denoise, but the workaround is to create your own custom preset and just apply that in Batch mode. Of course, this method doesn’t give you the sort of fine-grain control you would get from editing each HDR image individually, but the trade-off can be worth it in terms of overall time saved if you have a large number of images.

    Conclusion and rating

    During my time using Aurora HDR I was impressed with the simplicity of its interface as well as the sheer depth of HDR tools at my disposal. Macphun has clearly invested a great deal of time creating and refining Aurora HDR to appeal to demanding professionals and curious hobbyists alike. Having used previous versions of this program I found this iteration to be a welcome refinement in many areas.

    In terms of value, it’s a phenomenal piece of software that doesn’t require a subscription and will serve HDR photographers very well. The one quibble I still have with Aurora HDR 2018 is that it’s a bit on the slow side when implementing some presets and manipulating certain sliders. But that was a minor issue with an otherwise stellar program.

    Aurora HDR 2018 isn’t for everyone, and unless you specifically work with HDR images you might be frustrated that it doesn’t have features like Dehaze and Red-Eye Removal that you may be accustomed to using in other image editors. But then, it doesn’t claim to be an all-in-one editing program and instead abides by the age-old mantra of, “Do one thing, and do it well.” If HDR photography is what you’re into, then Aurora HDR will serve you very well indeed.

    Disclaimer: Macphun is a dPS advertising partner.

    The post Review of Macphun’s Aurora HDR 2018 by Simon Ringsmuth appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • Using Lightroom Alongside Photoshop: Working with Smart Objects

    What software do you use to process your digital images? As of the writing of this article, Adobe Lightroom sports over 1.4 million Likes on their official Facebook page. And Photoshop? That Facebook page is pushing 7.7 million Likes. If those numbers are any indication of the overall use of the editing software, then it’s safe to say that you are likely using one of the two programs right now (you’re reading this after all). Lightroom and Photoshop arguably set the standard for all other post-processing software platforms.

    If you’re like me you use both of them, in tandem, to edit and process your photos. There are literally limitless possibilities when it comes to using Lightroom and Photoshop together. Out of those possibilities comes the idea of “Smart Objects”.

    Do you know about Smart Objects? Have you ever used them before in your workflow? If not, I’m going to show you exactly how useful (or not) working with Smart Objects between Lightroom and Photoshop can be. Don’t worry, it’s all easy to understand. Let’s have a look at what Smart Objects can do for you and your photography when it comes to working with both Lightroom and Photoshop.

    What are Smart Objects?

    Think of Smart Objects as being a larger suitcase. All your edits in Lightroom are non-destructive. This is because you aren’t actually editing your original file in Lightroom. Rather, you are working with a virtual copy of your image. When you go from Lightroom to Photoshop, like this…

    Using Lightroom Alongside Photoshop: Working with Smart Objects

    You package everything into the suitcase and send it off to Photoshop Land. What do you put in your suitcase? You might put your Lightroom edits, the original file information, or a mix of the two. The key is that you don’t want to do anything to your photos that you can’t take back. While you can edit your images between Lightroom and Photoshop non-destructively, there are ways to remain more flexible than others. One of these is by using smart objects.

    While you can edit your images between Lightroom and Photoshop non-destructively, there are ways to remain more flexible than others. One of these is by using smart objects.

    Using Lightroom Alongside Photoshop: Working with Smart Objects

    Smart Objects pack more into the suitcase when you move your editing between Lightroom and Photoshop. When your image opens as a Smart Object in Photoshop, you’ll notice a special little icon on the layer thumbnail.

    Using Lightroom Alongside Photoshop: Working with Smart Objects

    This lets you know that you are now working with a Smart Object layer. From here, work with your image in Photoshop as you do normally.

    The benefits of using Smart Objects

    The great thing about using Smart Objects when jumping from Lightroom to Photoshop is that you are taking an original version of your image with you so that editing becomes much more versatile once in Photoshop. Not only can you change the edits you made in Lightroom but you can also work more effectively when transforming or resizing your photo.

    This all sounds a little complicated, but I can assure you it’s not. Let me show you some of the perks of using Smart Objects when working between Lightroom and Photoshop.

    Real-time edits of Lightroom adjustments

    Using Smart Objects, you can make dynamic changes to your Lightroom edits using Adobe Camera Raw just as you would in Lightroom itself. This lets you augment your Lightroom edits on the fly and when you save your image back to Lightroom there will be less need to make those final tweaks. Double click the Smart Object thumbnail and your photo will open in ACR.

    Using Lightroom Alongside Photoshop: Working with Smart Objects

    Apply any edits you want while in ACR and they will go back with you if/when you bring your photo back into Lightroom.

    Smarter resizing and transforming

    There’s a problem that plagues editors when it comes to downsizing and upsizing images in Photoshop. It’s pixelization. Because, spoiler alert, digital images are made up of pixels (except vector images). When you scale an image down in Photoshop, the program removes pixels to make the image smaller. This is all well and good until you decide you want to make the image larger again. Since you’re missing pixels, the photo can lose a lot of quality and look pixelated. Let me show you what I mean.

    Here we have that same photo that we imported to Photoshop. I’ve duplicated the image with the one on the left being our regular “Pixel Image” and the one on the right is the same photo only converted to a Smart Object (select layer>layer menu>convert to Smart Object.).

    Using Lightroom Alongside Photoshop: Working with Smart Objects

    I scale both photos down to 10% of their original size.

    Using Lightroom Alongside Photoshop: Working with Smart Objects

    Then, being the hypothetical indecisive photographer that I am, I decide to then bring the photo back to its original 100% size. Which gives us this.

    Using Lightroom Alongside Photoshop: Working with Smart Objects

    Not much difference, right? Wrong. Let’s take a closer look. Here’s the regular image after scaling it back to its larger size.

    And now look at our Smart Object…

    The smart object image has kept its clarity and sharpness because Photoshop didn’t touch the pixels when it was downsized and used the additional information in the Smart Object to edit non-destructively. This is the power of working with Smart Objects when using Lightroom and Photoshop together.

    The Downside

    No, it’s not all sunshine and rainbows when working with Smart Objects. The biggest problem is that since you are including the RAW file information when you jump from Lightroom, the final file sizes can become rather large after you edit your image in Photoshop. Depending on the size of your original image file this can make for a lot of hard drive real estate being consumed resulting in poor performance during your processing.

    Final thoughts on Smart Objects

    Using Lightroom alongside Photoshop essentially gives you the best of both editing worlds. You have the simplistic adjustment capacity Lightroom while being able to perform more intricate edits using Photoshop. Smart Objects simply sweeten the pot. Using Smart Objects allows you to edit your images more efficiently and completely non-destructively.

    Resizing images from Smart Objects means no loss of quality when you upscale or downscale. Throw in the fact that you have the fluidity of accessing and changing your Lightroom edits while in Photoshop using ACR and you quickly begin to run out of reasons not to incorporate this into your editing workflow. The increased file size, in my opinion, will be well worth the added benefits Smart Objects will bring you.

    Have some of your own processing tricks while using Lightroom and Photoshop together? Please share them in the comments below.

    The post Using Lightroom Alongside Photoshop: Working with Smart Objects by Adam Welch appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • 5 Non-Gear Related Ways to Improve Your Work and Take Better Photos

    I have lost track of the number of times I have heard complete strangers compliment me on having a great fancy camera that takes “great pictures”. Initially, I used to be quick to the defense and try and get a word in on how I am a professional photographer and hence have some level of skill in my craft. But now I just nod, smile and quickly move away. Unfortunately, the reality is that a lot of photographers (and others) think that by having the latest and greatest fancy camera, they have the ability to take better photos.

    The truth of the matter is that you don’t need the latest equipment or fancy qualifications to be a good photographer. Photography is a creative art form and like any art form, it takes a lot of hard work, practice, and perseverance to get really good at taking great pictures. Sure, you need to really understand your gear and what it can and cannot do. But there are loads of simple, non-technical stuff you can do to improve your photography as well.

    Here are some non-gear related tips that will help you take better photographs.

    #1 Take your camera everywhere

    You never know what might be around the corner, be it close to home or on your far away travels. Life is unpredictable and things change in a split second. There’s always something interesting to photograph. You just need to open your eyes, look around and be ready to snap that shot. And additionally, make sure your phone or camera of choice is within easy reach ready for that shot.

    5 Simple Non-Gear Related Ways to Improve Your Work and Take Better Photos

    Cows hitching a ride inside trucks is quite a sight especially on narrow streets in India!

    5 Simple Non-Gear Related Ways to Improve Your Work and Take Better Photos

    These migrating pelicans found the most electric resting places…hopefully, they got re-charged for their next flight.

    #2 Take pictures every day

    Overnight success is a myth. The sooner you realize that the more at peace you will have on your photographic journey. We all know that to get really good at anything, we need to practice and practice a lot. After all, practice makes perfect. The more pictures you take, the better you will become.

    Don’t get hung up on what you’re using to take the pictures, either. Many times I only have my iPhone with me and take a shot if it catches my eye. Be confident that if done correctly, you can make good pictures with any camera.

    5 Simple Non-Gear Related Ways to Improve Your Work and Take Better Photos

    Cupcakes and coffee = great food editorials shots.

    5 Simple Non-Gear Related Ways to Improve Your Work and Take Better Photos

    Other times it is just a bowl of fresh fruit that can spark an inspiring photo. Don’t get hung up on the perfect scenery – let your imagination be your guide for your everyday shots.

    #3 Analyze other photographs

    Seek inspiration in other photos. Look at pictures you like and ask yourself what you like about those pictures. What makes it interesting to you and why? Also question how you could make it better or do it differently.

    Don’t be afraid to try something similar and put your own creative spin on it. Take an old idea and make it your own. That makes it different, new and in turn, you just might make it better than the original.

    5 Simple Non-Gear Related Ways to Improve Your Work and Take Better Photos

    A recent obsession in the study of effectively capturing movement in photographs led to a multi-exposure frame – one of my personal favorites to showcase my creative journey.

    #4 Study your images

    Become your own best critic. Question everything. Look at your pictures and ask yourself what you like and what you don’t like. Be completely honest with yourself as this will really help you improve your craft. Sometimes it is also beneficial to repeat the shot and change it up to make it better than your own original.

    And when something works, celebrate your success. It is very important in your creative journey to celebrate your own milestones – it makes the journey that much more fun.

    5 Simple Non-Gear Related Ways to Improve Your Work and Take Better Photos

    This is the view from my home in Bombay and I love photographing the sea bridge – one of the technological marvels of the modern world – at different times of the day and in different weather conditions. It is amazing to analyze how light and color changes the whole perspective of an image.

    5 Simple Non-Gear Related Ways to Improve Your Work and Take Better Photos

    Of course, night shots have their own charm. Next time I shall remember to take my tripod along for some car trails!

    #5 Stop, look and then click

    Most of today’s fancy cameras have a continuous shooting mode where you can fire away at six to eight frames per second. But I find that this tends to make us lazy as photographers. We take on the mentality of the “spray and pray” theory that if we take 20 shots of something, chances are at least a couple will be worthwhile.

    Yes, taking loads of pictures is great. But if you pause and take a few seconds to really observe your surroundings, you will be able to visualize your shot. Think about how you want your picture to look and do what you need to do to achieve that look. It might mean moving position, waiting for the light to change or the crowds to dissipate, but it could be the difference between a good photo and a great one.

    5 Simple Non-Gear Related Ways to Improve Your Work and Take Better Photos

    We were walking along the narrow street of Vridhavan in India and this cow was ahead of us. We just stopped to see what he was doing and also to give him a wide berth as he was a very big bull. He calmly walked into this abandoned house and just made himself at home. It’s not every day that you find cows lounging inside your house.

    Conclusion

    I hope these simple yet powerful tips help you take better photos and improve at your skill and craft. Remember it is not the camera that takes a great picture but the skill of the person behind the camera that gets the money shot.

    The post 5 Non-Gear Related Ways to Improve Your Work and Take Better Photos by Karthika Gupta appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • How to do a Themed Photo Walk to Break out of a Photography Rut

    In simple terms, the more photographs you take, the more experience you gain. As they say, “the more the clicks, the better the pics”. It seems like an inevitable formula, right? But like many things, it’s easier said than done. Maintaining a constant flow of photographic material, let alone inspiration is hard work.

    The dreaded photographer’s block means you can find yourself shooting one minute and stuck in a creative lull the next. Fortunately, there are plenty of small tasks you can set for yourself to break out of a rut. Doing a themed photo walk is a great way to get those creative juices flowing, with the added bonus of getting your daily step-count up in the process as well.

    What is a themed photo walk?

    A themed walk is just that. First, you select a theme. Then, armed with a camera, allow yourself to be guided by wherever your photography legs may take you. When you see a subject that fits your theme, take a quick snap and move on. The goal is to accumulate a body of photographs pertaining to the theme you preselected before you set off.

    While taking a few random shots to shrug off a creative lull works well. But pot-shots make it hard to build up a series to revisit later. By taking on a themed photography outing, you’ll quickly fall back into the habit of actively seeking details and subjects, focusing your creative energies into a body of work with greater substance.

    How to do Themed Photo Walks to Break out of a Photography Rut

    Themed projects are a great excuse to document the world around you. Under the theme “desire paths” I photographed this series of pebbles – unearthed on a well-worn trail I take home.

    Choosing a theme

    The first step in this exercise can prove to be the hardest. Selecting a theme will define what you’ll be photographing on your walk. There are so many options to choose from, it can be hard to settle on a single one. Good themes are built on a strong idea of the target subject. A single color, shape, or pattern are simple yet effective choices, as are subjects that you’ll encounter frequently on your walk.

    You may be tempted to choose a few themes at once, but focusing on a single idea will help construct your series with much greater detail. Plus, this project is about easing back into photography, not racing around madly trying to photograph as much as you can in a day.

    Themes I’ve chosen in the past include dumpsters, traffic lines on roads (look out for traffic if you choose this one), spent cigarette packets, and squashed aluminum cans. As long as you don’t choose subjects like rain on a sunny day, you can’t go wrong. Once you make your selection and set off, you’ll be amazed how quickly you develop a discerning eye for your topic.

    How to do Themed Photo Walks to Break out of a Photography Rut

    For this photo walk I initially planned to photograph trees, though I let the theme evolve into a study of tree trunks instead. To draw greater attention to the form in each unique profile, I converted the images to black and white. Having the images arranged in a grid highlights the subtle differences in the subjects photographed.

    Setting Off

    Once you’ve settled on a theme, you’re ready to go. Start by having a good look at your surroundings. Depending on your theme, you may encounter photographic subjects as soon as you step out the door. Others may take a little more searching. Take your time and enjoy the process.

    There are no hard and fast rules here. If you realize you’ve chosen a difficult subject, select a different one and start on that instead. This process is for easing creativity-fatigue and taking the time to see detail in your environment. Although this exercise is rewarding when used to create a series, the action of taking some downtime to work on your personal photography is what matters most.

    How to do Themed Photo Walks to Break out of a Photography Rut

    If, like me, you often find yourself time-short, try taking just a few snaps over the course of the day. I put this brief “yellow” themed series together while getting some fresh air on a lunch break. Once I had decided on my theme, it was a lot easier to pick out subjects to photograph.

    Pulling it together

    After you feel satisfied you’ve taken a solid amount of photographs, you’re ready to head home. Once you get back to your computer, it’s time to check out your handy work. So far, this project may have seemed a little sporadic, especially if you’ve chosen a broad theme. But this part of the project involves pulling all the images together to form a cohesive body of work.

    Upload your images to the computer as you would normally and have a look over them with your preferred viewing software. Open a new document in Photoshop, select a few of your favorite images from your themed photo walk and drag them onto your canvas. Carefully resize each image so that they fit together in a neat grid. Make sure you hold down the Shift key while resizing images to maintain the aspect ratio of your photograph.

    How to do Themed Photo Walks to Break out of a Photography Rut

    Select your favorite images from your themed photo walk and drag them onto a new document in Photoshop. Remember to hold the Shift key down to maintain the image’s proportions.

    As you build up the images in your grid you’ll start to see how easily your hard work comes together in a series. Although you may want to experiment with the order of your photographs, your overreaching theme will make a big difference in tying your series together. It doesn’t have to be perfect, and you don’t have to use every image you took on your walk. Just pick whatever you feel works. Once you have your images sorted into the one canvas, you are ready to share and can post the results in the comments below for us to see.

    How to do Themed Photo Walks to Break out of a Photography Rut

    Experimenting with the order that your images are arranged highlights the subtlety involved in creating a successful series of images. Working on a particular theme simplifies this process, leaving you to focus on the details that make the layout work.

    How to do Themed Photo Walks to Break out of a Photography Rut

    Another variation of my road signage themed walk. Don’t be afraid to change up your layout and experiment until it feels right.

    The benefits

    Aside from the exercise, themed photo walks help channel your photographic energy into a body of work. No matter how broad or focused, taking photographs within a specific theme widens your photographic experience and enhances your eye for detail. Hunting down subjects within a deliberately selected theme will help you create images you might never have considered before.

    This will also help you to visualize future projects and help you pick out elements in photographs that work cohesively in a series. It’s a great way to improve your practice and get your head back into the photography zone.

    How to do Themed Photo Walks to Break out of a Photography Rut

    I took these images under the theme “looking down”. I plodded around with my camera pointed toward the ground for a few hours just to see what I could find. The results made a unique series built upon an unusual perspective.

    How to do Themed Photo Walks to Break out of a Photography Rut

    Another themed walk collage.

    The post How to do a Themed Photo Walk to Break out of a Photography Rut by Megan Kennedy appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • Enter to Win Corel PaintShop Pro 2018 Ultimate

    Win a $ 500 gift card and a Corel software package – PaintShop Pro 2018 Ultimate, AfterShot Pro 3, VideoStudio Ultimate X10 and ParticleShop. Boom!

    Enter the Corel “Colors of Fall” photography contest today!

    Over the last few years here at dPS, we’ve run very some very popular competitions with our partners to give away some of their great photographic products to lucky dPS readers.

    We are lucky enough to be able to do it again now.

    Three Prizes

    For this competition, Corel is giving away, as the grand prize, a $ 500 gift card and a Corel Software Package. The second place winner will receive a full Corel software package and the third place winner will win a copy of PaintShop Pro 2018 Ultimate.

    The software package includes PaintShop Pro 2018 Ultimate, AfterShot Pro 3, VideoStudio Ultimate X10 and ParticleShop.

    These prizes are designed to help every level of photographer create BETTER pictures. Since 1989, with the introduction of CorelDRAW, Corel boasts a range of award-winning products that includes graphics, painting, photo, video and office software with a community of over 100 million strong. Each prize will be won by a different dPS reader.

    Enter to Win Corel PaintShop Pro 2018 Ultimate

    All three prize winners will receive the full version of Corel’s leading photo editing and graphic design software – A $ 99.99 value!

    * Special Offer – All dPS readers will receive 10% discount on PaintShop Pro 2018 Ultimate

    Get Photoshop-like results for less with PaintShop® Pro 2018 Ultimate including a faster, easier PaintShop Pro and an exclusive bonus collection of premium software you won’t find in Photoshop. Turn photos into works of art with Painter® Essentials™ 5, automatically correct images with Perfectly Clear 3 SE, and edit RAW photos quickly with Corel® AfterShot™ 3.

    • Edit photos like a professional
    • Create unique graphic design projects
    • Turn your photos into works of art
    • Enhance your photos instantly
    • Work with RAW images
    • Simplified user interface

    Enter to Win Corel PaintShop Pro 2018 Ultimate

    Enter to Win Corel PaintShop Pro 2018 Ultimate

    Learn a little more about PaintShop Pro 2018 Ultimate here.

    How to Win

    To win this competition you’ll need to:

    1. Download a free trial of PaintShop Pro 2018
    2. Edit your favorite “Colors of Fall” photo, using PaintShop Pro 2018
    3. Post your “Colors of Fall” photo, along with a few words on how you feel PaintShop Pro 2018 Ultimate would help your photography and, of course, a few words about your “Colors of Fall” photo. It’s as easy as that!

    Do this in the next 21 days and on October 9, 2017, the team at Corel will choose the three best photos and comments, and we will announce the winners in the following days.

    The deadline to enter is October 8, 2017, Midnight PDT. Photos and comments left after the deadline will not be considered.

    Note: By entering the “Colors of Fall” photo competition, the Entrant is providing permission to Corel to publish their photo, if it is chosen as a winner, to be utilized within media post/s by Corel announcing the winners and promoting. Entrants will be provided a full photo credit if a photo is used, and will retain their copyright.

    Please click HERE for full contest rules, terms and conditions.

    By best – we’re looking for people who understand photography post-processing, and how PaintShop Pro 2018 Ultimate may best suit your needs. So you’ll need to check out the product page to put yourself in the best position to win. Don’t forget that to grab a free trial download.

    There’s no need to write essay length comments to win – but we’re looking to hear what you like about the software and how it would help your development as a photographer. Don’t forget to include your “Colors of Fall” photo that you edited with PaintShop Pro 2018. We encourage you to have fun and be creative!

    This competition is open to everyone, no matter where you live – but there is only one entry per person. To enter – simply leave your photo and comment below.

    Note: By entering the “Colors of Fall” photo competition, the Entrant is providing permission to Corel to publish their photo, if it is chosen as a winner, to be utilized within media post/s by Corel announcing the winners and promoting. Entrants will be provided a full photo credit if a photo is used, and will retain their copyright.

    Enter to Win Corel PaintShop Pro 2018 Ultimate

    Disclaimer: Corel is a paid partner of dPS.

    The post Enter to Win Corel PaintShop Pro 2018 Ultimate by Darlene Hildebrandt appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • How to Plan a Street Photography Shoot When Traveling

    Street photography is normally a very open and free-form photography genre, but sometimes because we are traveling it’s better to plan a shoot rather than relying on luck.

    Fortune, they say, favors the prepared, and when all you have is a few hours in a new land, better get ready to make the most of what you’ve got. Makes sense, no? Here’s how I prepare a street photography shoot when I know time will be limited.

    What to do a few days before

    A few days before your shoot you will need a few apps and tools.

    The first is an offline map, Google Maps allows you to save chunks of the map but some areas are off limits (I tried to save a map of Osaka and wasn’t allowed). You need to find apps that have offline maps from the get-go and download the map of the area where you are going. It sounds stupid and you might be tempted to skip this part, but when I went to Hong Kong, I wasted an hour and a half trying to get out of the subway area into the main roads.

    How to Plan a Street Photography Shoot When Traveling

    The second app you need is called the Photographers Ephemeris (iOS / Android). It’s designed for landscape shooters but it’s also useful for street photographers because it allows you to know where and when the sun will rise and set. It tells you what to expect in terms of light. It is a paid app, but alternatively, you can get that information for free online.

    This is very useful information that you can use to predict what camera/lens you may require also. No need to get your high ISO camera if you plan to leave before the sun sets, for example.

    How to Plan a Street Photography Shoot When Traveling

    Planning your shoot

    Here’s the deal, if you had all the time in the world, you would stroll and go wherever you feel images are calling you. But you don’t, probably one or two days is all you have while traveling. So you need an idea of where to go while leaving things open to opportunity and chance as well.

    1- Check the weather

    Don’t miss this step! It may sound stupid but this not only allows you to plan ahead and might tell you to bring extra protective gear. I usually check the day before because the weather is very unreliable and the forecast can change quickly.

    How to Plan a Street Photography Shoot When Traveling

    2- What are your numbers?

    You need to know when you are arriving and leaving. For example, imagine you are arriving at 8 pm and leaving at 4 pm the next day. What I recommend first of all is to set an alarm that tells you when to start and stop shooting, it usually takes an hour to get situated so I would set an alarm for 9 pm and 3 pm the following day. You need to figure out the amount of time it takes to get from the airport to where you are staying and to return again. I personally have an alarm for when to eat too.

    While this might sound tedious, it gives you the freedom to shoot because it will tell you exactly when to start and when to stop, and you do not have to worry about it. When traveling you have no familiar bearings so the alarms get you grounded.

    How to Plan a Street Photography Shoot When Traveling

    Consider your arrival time

    The other reason for knowing your numbers is knowing what you can expect. Remember the information you got from Photographer’s ephemeris or online. When are the sunrise, midday, and sunset?

    Let’s say sunset is at  7 pm and sunrise at 7 am. If you are arriving at 8 pm you would know that you will arrive at night. So if you want to shoot the morning light, you need to wake up before 7 am and you know that you will miss the sunset. This kind of information will tell you what kind of light you can anticipate. But you also need to know where you are going.

    How to Plan a Street Photography Shoot When Traveling

    Where to go

    When going somewhere new, I try to find the population centers and busy streets. So I google “[city name here] busy street” look at the results, and try to find the names of the busiest streets. It’s not magical, it’s probably overshot but where there are more people, usually there are interesting shots. Here are my results using Hong Kong as an example.

    How to Plan a Street Photography Shoot When Traveling

    Note: This is where you want to google according to your project and style. If you have a project with businessmen, you want to find out where the central business district is for example.

    When looking for populated areas, there is usually a long stretch of road that is popular that provides great opportunities. For example:

    • Market Street in Philadelphia
    • Times Square in New York
    • Dotonbori in Osaka
    • Ocean Drive in Miami
    • Gangnam in Seoul
    • Nathan road in Hong Kong

    Then I map out how to go there from the airport. When you know your times and where to go, you have a clearer idea of what you can expect. All of your energy is saved for shooting and not figuring things out when you arrive. Like I said above, after sweating like a pig trying to get out of the subway area in Kowloon, Hong Kong, it zapped my energy levels greatly. I doubled down on coffee.

    How to Plan a Street Photography Shoot When Traveling

    Use your gathered information wisely

    It takes some experience but after a while, you start to know what to expect with all the information gathered. In the morning, you know what direction to be in to shoot the sun or have it at your back. You know when stores will start opening and people go to work. Knowing where you are going will help with your expectations. For example, if there are a lot of high-rises that will create shadow areas.

    Knowing what time night falls will tell you when street vendors will start to close, the light from stores will create a new light source, or when to pull out a flash if that’s your thing.

    How to Plan a Street Photography Shoot When Traveling

    Protection

    You have to be careful. What you believe is a camera is someone else’s next meal for a month. Population centers and busy streets are opportunities for street photographers but also for street thieves. It depends on where you are going, some places are safer than others. I like the anti-theft Pacsafe brand, but you can make yourself less pick-pocket friendly if you turn your backpack and hold it against your belly.

    Also, don’t flaunt your camera if you know you are going somewhere there are lots of pick-pockets. You have to be careful not to damage the camera, but some tape is perfect to uglify the camera. And as much as you can, avoid backpacks and bags that scream “camera bag”. It immediately flags you as having a camera.

    How to Plan a Street Photography Shoot When Traveling

    Conclusion

    There you have my system for how to prepare for a travel street photography shoot. I would be the first to say that it’s better to go somewhere and leave things open, but sometimes that’s just not a good use of your time when you only have a few hours or days to shoot somewhere. It’s better to prepare and then leave things open. Be yourself, stay focused and keep on shooting.

    The post How to Plan a Street Photography Shoot When Traveling by Olivier Duong appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • Enter to Win Corel PaintShop Pro 2018 Ultimate

    Win a $ 500 gift card and a Corel software package – PaintShop Pro 2018 Ultimate, AfterShot Pro 3, VideoStudio Ultimate X10 and ParticleShop. Boom!

    Enter the Corel “Colors of Fall” photography contest today!

    Over the last few years here at dPS, we’ve run very some very popular competitions with our partners to give away some of their great photographic products to lucky dPS readers.

    We are lucky enough to be able to do it again now.

    Three Prizes

    For this competition, Corel is giving away, as the grand prize, a $ 500 gift card and a Corel Software Package. The second place winner will receive a full Corel software package and the third place winner will win a copy of PaintShop Pro 2018 Ultimate.

    The software package includes PaintShop Pro 2018 Ultimate, AfterShot Pro 3, VideoStudio Ultimate X10 and ParticleShop.

    These prizes are designed to help every level of photographer create BETTER pictures. Since 1989, with the introduction of CorelDRAW, Corel boasts a range of award-winning products that includes graphics, painting, photo, video and office software with a community of over 100 million strong. Each prize will be won by a different dPS reader.

    Enter to Win Corel PaintShop Pro 2018 Ultimate

    All three prize winners will receive the full version of Corel’s leading photo editing and graphic design software – A $ 99.99 value!

    * Special Offer – All dPS readers will receive 10% discount on PaintShop Pro 2018 Ultimate

    Get Photoshop-like results for less with PaintShop® Pro 2018 Ultimate including a faster, easier PaintShop Pro and an exclusive bonus collection of premium software you won’t find in Photoshop. Turn photos into works of art with Painter® Essentials™ 5, automatically correct images with Perfectly Clear 3 SE, and edit RAW photos quickly with Corel® AfterShot™ 3.

    • Edit photos like a professional
    • Create unique graphic design projects
    • Turn your photos into works of art
    • Enhance your photos instantly
    • Work with RAW images
    • Simplified user interface

    Enter to Win Corel PaintShop Pro 2018 Ultimate

    Enter to Win Corel PaintShop Pro 2018 Ultimate

    Learn a little more about PaintShop Pro 2018 Ultimate here.

    How to Win

    To win this competition you’ll need to:

    1. Download a free trial of PaintShop Pro 2018
    2. Edit your favorite “Colors of Fall” photo, using PaintShop Pro 2018
    3. Post your “Colors of Fall” photo, along with a few words on how you feel PaintShop Pro 2018 Ultimate would help your photography and, of course, a few words about your “Colors of Fall” photo. It’s as easy as that!

    Do this in the next 21 days and on October 9, 2017, the team at Corel will choose the three best photos and comments, and we will announce the winners in the following days.

    The deadline to enter is October 8, 2017, Midnight PDT. Photos and comments left after the deadline will not be considered.

    Note: By entering the “Colors of Fall” photo competition, the Entrant is providing permission to Corel to publish their photo, if it is chosen as a winner, to be utilized within media post/s by Corel announcing the winners and promoting. Entrants will be provided a full photo credit if a photo is used, and will retain their copyright.

    Please click HERE for full contest rules, terms and conditions.

    By best – we’re looking for people who understand photography post-processing, and how PaintShop Pro 2018 Ultimate may best suit your needs. So you’ll need to check out the product page to put yourself in the best position to win. Don’t forget that to grab a free trial download.

    There’s no need to write essay length comments to win – but we’re looking to hear what you like about the software and how it would help your development as a photographer. Don’t forget to include your “Colors of Fall” photo that you edited with PaintShop Pro 2018. We encourage you to have fun and be creative!

    This competition is open to everyone, no matter where you live – but there is only one entry per person. To enter – simply leave your photo and comment below.

    Note: By entering the “Colors of Fall” photo competition, the Entrant is providing permission to Corel to publish their photo, if it is chosen as a winner, to be utilized within media post/s by Corel announcing the winners and promoting. Entrants will be provided a full photo credit if a photo is used, and will retain their copyright.

    Enter to Win Corel PaintShop Pro 2018 Ultimate

    Disclaimer: Corel is a paid partner of dPS.

    The post Enter to Win Corel PaintShop Pro 2018 Ultimate by Darlene Hildebrandt appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • Review and Field Test of G-Technology G-Drive ev ATC Portable Hard Drives

    As photographers, keeping our data safe is of the utmost importance. Being able to trust your hard drives to work and survive all types of conditions and hardships is something to consider. As a wildlife photographer, I often find myself out in the elements, and when traveling, my gear has to put up with the rugged nature of travel, while still being ready to work when called upon. Recently I have been putting the G-Technology G-Drive ev ATC hard drives through their paces and I think these might just be one of the best rugged and solid ways to keep data safe on the move.

    Review G Technology G Drive ev ATC Portable Hard Drive

    G-Drive ev ATC hard drive features

    The ATC is part of the G-technology ev series, a set of drives offering a simple workflow from the field to the studio. The ATC builds upon the standard RaW and ev drives by adding a polycarbonate protective shell to the main drive offering protection from bumps, dust, sand and even full submergence in water to keep your drive and data safe.

    The case itself is solid – the simple blue and black design that is stylish and bright enough to easily find in dark conditions. The polycarbonate shell feels very solid in the hand and fits the drive like a glove. It seals closed with a latch system that might seem flimsy, but offers a solid click and seal to ensure the drive is closed off from the elements.

    G-Drive ev ATC hard drives - The G drive inside the ATC case

    G-Drive ev ATC hard drives Locking mechanism for waterproof closure

    The G-Drive ev ATC comes in two varieties, offering Thunderbolt or USB-3 connections for your chosen device. The cords are built into the case itself so you don’t need to worry about forgetting them, a really well thought out design. Of course, the case adds an extra amount of bulk to the setup that might be a problem for those photographers wanting to keep things as small as possible, but personally, I think the extra size is a worthy trade off for the added protection.

    Testing the drives during travel

    Testing the drives out, they have accompanied me on a few international trips, coming as my primary and backup drives for work in the Falklands, Canada, and Finland. On each trip I have worked with two drives, keeping one as a primary and the other as secondary backup. The fast data transfer speeds were great, 1GB of data transferred in less than a minute over USB-3 meaning backups were swift and simple.

    On returning flights keeping data separate is important (in case of a lost bag) and I had no worries about packing one of these with the G-Drive ev ATC hard drives into my checked baggage, knowing the solid construction would keep it protected from any rough handling from the dreaded baggage handlers! On all of my trips, the hold drive never skipped a beat, being ready to upload as soon as I got home to my office.

    G-Drive ev ATC hard drives Using the internal drive with the EV docking station

    The drive easily pops out and can be inserted into the G-Dock for easy file transfer back home.

    In the office the workflow is simple. Popping the drives out of the housing I can easily slot them into the Ev docking station (called G-Dock) that gives me Thunderbolt speeds to upload images directly to my main drives for editing, backup and archiving. The ease of being able to just slot in one drive saves faffing around with multiple SD and CF cards again, keeping my workflow streamlined.

    Extreme testing

    To further test the drives I wanted to put them through the mill so I decided to rough them up with some real world testing. Grabbing one of the drives in the ATC case I took it out onto location and basically treated it like I didn’t care it was full of precious data. Dropping it onto the ground, into muddy puddles and even throwing it into my local river before rescuing it again down stream.

    G-Drive ev ATC hard drives Tested in the dirt and mud without a hitch

    Each test was passed with flying colors and even after fully submerging the drive underwater with my hand for a minute, it was in perfect working order. Of course, one problem with the drive is that you do need to check that everything is latched down. Human error, not fully closing the latch or getting something stuck into the gasket could compromise the waterproofing and seal, so it’s best to always be careful. I mean I doubt too many of us regularly throw our drives in a river intentionally…

    G-Drive ev ATC hard drives Underwater isnt a problem for the ATC

    As a drive, they are built solidly, but one area that I feel would be a great improvement is the use of SSDs rather than normal disk drives. Including an SSD would just add another level to the rugged nature of the drives making them even more durable for life on the road, while also giving faster transfer speeds. This would be especially useful for those editing and working with video files on the move as well.

    As a photographer, G-Drive ev ATC hard drives suit my needs very well. The large 1TB hard drive easily has enough storage for a long photo shoot on location and with the protective shell offering great durability to my drives I am sure they will be part of my workflow for many years to come.

    The post Review and Field Test of G-Technology G-Drive ev ATC Portable Hard Drives by Tom Mason appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • Tips for Why and How to do Wildlife Photography at Eye-Level

    Wildlife photography is all about creating a connection with the subject and with your audience. One of the key components of your wildlife images is how well they capture the audience’s attention. One of the most effective ways to do that is to try and get down and shoot at eye-level with the subject. Please note that eye-level need not necessarily mean ground-level always. You could have a subject on a tree, rock, etc., so it’s not always essential to be at the ground-level but being at eye-level really helps.

    What’s the difference?

    Let’s see what difference is in an image when you shot from eye-level of the subject.

    Taken from a car.

    Taken at eye level on the ground.

    Purely from an attention grabbing perspective, this renders the background totally blurred thus restricting the number of points vying for attention. As is seen in the image above, the image when taken from eye-level helps in drawing attention directly to the bird. Why does this happen, though? What causes the background to blur out?

    The background is affected

    Often in my workshops and tours, I suggest people that they should ask “Why?” for all concepts and tips. For the eye-level approach to wildlife photography, I again ask, “Why does this result in getting a cleaner background?” The answer might be obvious to a lot of you but for those others who are just starting their journey as photographers, the following question might help.

    Ever you ever searched for a tiny thing like an earring or a needle on the floor?

    The obvious approach is to immediately get down to ground level and rest your head on the floor. But why does that help? It helps simply because by changing your perspective you change the distance between the subject and the background. The greater this distance, the greater the chance there is of the shallower depth of field coming into play and that of the subject standing out.

    Take the images above for example. The following illustration will show the difference in terms of background for both..

    Tips for Why and How to do Wildlife Photography at Eye-Level

    In the illustration where the photographer is standing up, the background consists of the ground immediately behind the bird. The less the distance between subject and background, the lesser the blur of the background is achieved.

    Where the photographer is lying down, the background is almost infinity (a significant distance away from the bird). The greater the distance between subject and background, the more blur of the background can be achieved.

    With that rule understood, you will be able to apply it in the field that much better. Here are a few more examples of eye-level wildlife photography.

    Tips for Why and How to do Wildlife Photography at Eye-Level

    Tips for Why and How to do Wildlife Photography at Eye-Level

    Tips for Why and How to do Wildlife Photography at Eye-Level

    Tips for shooting wildlife photography at eye-level

    Now that we have established the advantage of going to the eye-level of the subject, let’s take a look at a few ways to go about doing that.

    Getting to the eye-level

    #1 Get yourself flat on the ground

    This is the easiest to do, as you just have to lie down, right? Well, I wish it was just that. If you are in a vehicle and are close enough to the subject, then try to get down on the ground with minimal to no noise and generally very slowly. Try and make moves only when the subject is looking away. Once you are flat on the ground, try not to make a lot of burst shots immediately. Let the subject get accustomed to you first.

    #2 Get the vehicle at eye-level

    Take a look at the image below. It is a pair of lions in the African savannah.

    Tips for Why and How to do Wildlife Photography at Eye-Level

    Quite often, wildlife photography is done in reserves or national parks, where getting down from the vehicle is not allowed. So what can you do in such scenarios? This is where your field-craft comes in handy. Know your subject and you will be able to predict its movement.

    For example, take a scenario where you have a big cat walking on a road (they seem to like doing that don’t they?). You could either stop where you are and fire-off a few shots. OR you could take a moment to evaluate the animal’s potential path and wait at a location where the road is slightly lower than where you are currently situated. A lower elevation for the vehicle would ensure a better connection with the subject when it walks towards you. Take a look at the simple sketch below to give you an idea.

    Tips for Why and How to do Wildlife Photography at Eye-Level

    #3 Crawl

    This one has to do mostly with shooting on the beach. If you are into shorebird photography quite often you will find yourself on a sandy beach because those are the areas where your subjects are found. It is generally not very easy to get up-close to these guys using your vehicle so you have to start crawling from a safe distance.

    I have noticed that shorebirds allow you to get really close-up as long as you are willing to put in that effort to crawl and not rush in on them. Here is an example of the result of a 50-foot crawl.

    Tips for Why and How to do Wildlife Photography at Eye-Level

    Yes, get those elbow and knee guards ready because it isn’t the easiest thing to do. Especially if you are carrying a big lens around. A contraption like the ground pod helps a lot in this situation to push the gear easily.

    #4 Standing up

    Sometimes, when you are in a vehicle, getting to eye-level might simply mean standing up. Look at the following two images. Both clicked at the same spot, one while I was sitting down and the other when I decided to get up to eye-level.

    Tips for Why and How to do Wildlife Photography at Eye-Level

    Tips for Why and How to do Wildlife Photography at Eye-Level

    It makes a world of a difference right? Now please remember that even when you are doing a simple thing like standing up, you need to be very cautious and slow in your approach. Wildlife does not like sudden movements, it spooks them.

    Getting ready for eye-level

    As with everything in photography, practice makes life much easier in the field, so here is my advice for the eye-level approach. Initially just try it without the camera. See if you can understand the mood of the subject. Remember, make no alarming or sudden movements and be as quiet and slow as possible.

    Once you are able to do this with a certain degree of success, you are ready to then bring out the camera gear and give it a go. Remember, this is quite a lot like being a predator. You will not have a 100% success rate. Just make sure that when you succeed, you make full use of it. What I mean is, make sure that before you get down on the ground, you have chosen the spot well for a good background and you have taken into account the light on the subject.

    So get out there, and practice and share your wildlife photography eye-level images.

    The post Tips for Why and How to do Wildlife Photography at Eye-Level by Rahul Sachdev appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School