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Nikon shuts down camera factory in China, blames ‘the rise of smartphones’
Earlier today, the Nikon board of directors announced plans to close Nikon Imaging (China) Co., LTD (NIC)—a subsidiary based in Wuxi City, Jiangsu, China, where NIC employed some 2,500 workers at a factory that produced compact digital cameras and DSLR lenses. The closure, says Nikon, is due to “the rise of smartphones” and the “rapidly shrinking” compact camera market.
Nikon’s announcement of the closure lays the blame for this cut squarely on the shoulders of the smartphone revolution.
In recent years […] due to the rise of smartphones, the compact digital camera market has been shrinking rapidly, leading to a significant decrease in operating rate at NIC and creating a difficult business environment. In this context, the Company conducted rounds of thorough reviews and discussions on the global manufacturing structure optimization measures stated in the company-wide restructuring plan announced by the Company in November 2016. The Company has decided to discontinue operations of NIC.
Nikon says expenses related to the closure of the factory and “discontinued operations of the consolidated subsidiary” are expected to reach about 7 Billion Yen (~$ 62 million USD).
Of course, the end of Nikon Imaging (China) doesn’t mean the end of Nikon cameras in China. According to Nikkei, Nikon controls 30% of the digital camera market there, and Nikon itself says it will “continue proactively developing business and services in China.” This move is simply in keeping with a harsh if unsurprising (and “old news”) reality: the smartphone has killed the entry-level compact.
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Peak Design announces 5L Everyday Sling camera/drone bag
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Peak Design announced the 5L Everyday Sling, a small light-weight bag that can be carried as either a sling or a fanny-pack. The smallest bag in the company’s Everyday line, it’s got room for a full frame DSLR with a moderate-size lens, a mirrorless system with a few lenses, or a DJI Mavic Pro/Spark + controller + accessories. There are two interior pockets, one of which can fit an 11″ tablet, as well as an additional exterior zipper pocket.
The exterior is made off weatherproof nylon canvas, like all bags in this line, and both zippers are also weatherproof. Colors include in ash with leather accents or black with black accents. Retail price is $ 100.
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iOS apps can secretly record and take pictures once you’ve given them camera permission
If you want to be sure nobody is spying on you through your laptop’s webcam, the best thing you can do is cover the lens—but the same might actually be true for the camera on your Apple smartphone.
Felix Krause, a developer at Google, has found that any iOS app could secretly use the iPhone’s camera to record images and video of the user, once given permission to access the camera at all. Krause developed an app for demonstration purposes that shows how an app could use either front or rear cameras to capture images and video in the background. The resulting footage or images could be directly transferred to cloud servers without the user being aware or receiving any notifications.
The camera could also be used to run real-time face recognition, possibly even identifying the user.
The good news is that Krause’s app is not approved for distribution through the iTunes App Store; hopefully such malicious behavior would be picked up during Apple’s pretty strict review process. However, if you want to be entirely certain you’re not being spied on, the best options seem to be covering the lens or not granting camera access to any app you don’t 100 percent trust.
For a better idea of the issue, watch the video below that shows Krause’s proof-of-concept app in action, or read the full report on his website.
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X-Rite unveils i1Studio: An all-in-one spectrophotometer that can calibrate all your devices
X-Rite has launched the i1Studio, an all-in-one spectrophotometer designed to make it easy to color calibrate a variety of devices—including projectors, scanners, monitors, printers, and mobile devices. The spectrophotometer is joined by new i1Studio software, the ColorTRUE Mobile App for calibrating iOS devices, and the ColorChecker Calibration for Cameras, a standard 24-patch target.
The i1Studio offers dedicated profiling for the aforementioned devices, as well as Black & White prints. Module features include ambient light measurement, Flare Correct, adaptive profiling technology, support for several video standards including NTSC and PAL, multiple monitor profiling, and extended user controls over luminance, gamma, contrast ratio, and white point.
The device’s related software is based on the platform X-Rite used for its 1Profiler software, promising a “perfect balance” between controls and automation alongside what X-Rite describes as a “streamlined user experience.” ColorMunki Photo & Design customers are offered a complimentary i1Studio software update, as well.
The kit is available now from X-Rite for $ 490 USD.
Press Release
X-Rite Announces its New i1Studio for Expert Color Results from Capture-to-Print
All-In-One color control solution with unmatched versatility for cameras, scanners, displays, printers, projectors and iOS mobile devices
X-Rite Incorporated, the world leader in color management and measurement technologies announces the i1Studio, an all new start-to-finish color management solution that delivers expert results from capture through to print.
The i1Studio enables exceptional color accuracy for photographers, filmmakers and designers of all levels to achieve consistent and predictable results across their workflow – saving time and money. The package comprises the i1Studio all-in-one spectrophotometer, i1Studio software, X-Rite’s market leading ColorChecker camera calibration tools and the ColorTRUE mobile app.
“Photographers tell stories with their pictures. Along with light, color plays an essential role in telling these stories. We want to make sure that your story is told as perfectly as possible, whether it’s color or black and white. Managing color should be easy with getting accurate repeatable results every time as the ultimate goal. i1Studio provides an intuitive, start-to-finish color management solution for every device in our users’ workflow so they can easily achieve this goal and get amazing results.”
– Liz Quinlisk, Marketing Director Photo & Video, X-Rite.
The i1Studio package comes with:
- i1Studio Device: The all-in-one i1Studio spectrophotometer is the only device creatives will need to profile their monitors, projectors, scanners, mobile devices and printers.
- NEW i1Studio software for Displays, Projectors, Scanners and Printers: The i1Studio software, based on X-Rite’s award winning i1Profiler software, provides an easy to navigate interface that delivers expertly calibrated and profiled monitors (including video pre-sets), projectors, scanners and printers, including a new dedicated Black & White print module for creating custom profiles for five unique B&W looks.
- ColorChecker Calibration for Cameras: The included industry standard 24 patch target allows creatives to create custom camera profiles, set a custom white balance and have a neutral starting point no matter what light photographers are shooting in for a more streamlined editing process. (Also includes Adobe® Lightroom® Plug-In)
- ColorTRUE Mobile App for iOS Devices: A simple way to calibrate Apple® iOS mobile devices for a true mobile to desktop color match of all images. (Downloadable from Apple App Store)
X-Rite’s i1 brand has long been the choice for color perfectionists around the world and is now extended to the i1Studio.
Amongst its wide array of features, i1Studio includes dedicated profiling for Black & White prints, scanners, mobile devices and video monitors. The new i1Studio software is engineered on the same platform as X-Rite’s i1Profiler, offering a streamlined user experience with the perfect balance of automation and creative controls. This gives users more options and more control, while delivering prints perfectly matched to their creative vision.
X-Rite’s i1Studio is now available through our global reseller network and on xritephoto.com, xritephoto.eu and xrite.com.
Existing ColorMunki Photo & Design customers can obtain a complimentary upgrade to i1Studio software at xrite.com/geti1Studio.
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6 Tips To Help You Shoot In Low Light Without a Tripod
Most photographers will tell you that a tripod is invaluable and is usually the favorite accessory that they carry with them. While a tripod remains an essential piece of equipment, especially for low light photography, it is also usually the one piece of camera equipment that draws the most amount of attention.
In some scenarios and places, you won’t be allowed to use a tripod so you have to find other ways of utilizing your camera to take the photo you want. Here are six tips to help you capture photos in low light without a tripod.
#1 – Raise the ISO
The first option that most people will turn to is to raise the ISO setting in the camera. Principally, the ISO is the sensitivity of the camera’s sensor to light. The higher the ISO the more “sensitive” the sensor becomes to light which in turn means you can capture more detail in low light conditions. In simple terms, the darker your scene is, the higher you need your ISO. But before you start whacking your ISO up to 25,600, beware that raising the ISO also has a detrimental effect on the image.
The higher your ISO setting, the more noise you’ll see in your photo. Too much noise and your photo will begin to start looking soft. The key to being able to use ISO effectively is to balance it with other elements such as shutter speed and depth of field to be able to capture the shot you want.
Always aim to have your ISO as low as possible. Also, make sure you test your camera at different ISO settings before you use it for an actual photograph you intend to take.
Taken at ISO 4000. It was the only way that I was able to capture a photo in this dark tunnel.
#2 – Use Mirror Lock-Up and Live View Mode
Have you ever taken a photo with a tripod, with good depth of field, at a slow shutter speed only to see the final photo on your computer is slightly blurred? This is one question that has often baffled novice photographers but there is a simple solution.
When you press the button to take a photo, the mirror inside the camera flips up out of the way. This mechanical process can mean that there is a slight movement in the camera, which in turn causes a small shake, hence the blurred photo. To get around this problem, you can set your camera to Live View mode (when you get a live picture on the display of your camera) which essentially flips the mirror up permanently (until you switch off Live View mode) and means that when you take the photo you don’t get the movement the camera. Some cameras also allow you to “lock the mirror” without using the live view mode (so using your viewfinder).
This issue would be the same when photographing without a tripod in low light conditions. So in this scenario, set your camera to Live View mode/mirror lock-up to avoid that small, unwanted camera shake.
#3 – Use High-Speed Burst Mode
One of the great innovations of modern DSLR cameras is how much faster you can now take photos in burst mode. Using a high-speed burst mode is a really good trick to capturing decent photos in low light. But this only works when your shutter speed is just below the threshold of you shooting handheld.
For example, if you can hold your camera steady enough to take a sharp photo at 1/60th, you may be able to get away with using high-speed burst mode and using 1/45th or even 1/30th of a second. This is because with high-speed burst mode you have less time in between photos for the camera to move and often you’ll find one or two photos sharp enough for use in the middle of the burst.
Just remember to use high-speed burst as some cameras also offer low-speed burst option and aim for a good number of photos. You’ll also be well advised to try out this trick a few times to find out what your threshold is before you use it in a real-life situation.
#4 – Find a Ledge or Wall
Often your best bet for capturing photos in low light is to find a ledge or wall that you can rest your camera on. Not only does this mean you can have your settings at pretty much exactly what you would with a tripod, but you can also often find interesting camera angles which are different to traditional photos you’d see taken with a tripod.
One thing to be aware of is that you may need to raise your lens up slightly. Otherwise, you may see the ledge/wall in the foreground of your photo. You can use anything you can find or have with you to slightly tilt the lens upward.
I found a small ledge in this old church that I was able to rest the camera on to take this photo.
#5 – Use Your Bag
Over time you’ll begin to pick up tricks and techniques that you will use in your photography. One of the most useful that I have found has been to simply use my backpack. Put it on the floor and put your camera on top and you have a quick tripod without all the attention that a tripod brings.
This trick has been really useful in buildings and places where tripods are not allowed like museums or galleries. You can put your bag on benches and even rest it on a branch of a tree (as I did once).
#6 – Train Yourself
Like anything else photography is something that you can improve your skills. This is also true of actually being able to hold the camera steady. So start by practicing your stance and make sure that you are holding the camera as securely and comfortably as you can.
Work on your composure and try to teach yourself to relax when you are going to take the photo. By practicing over and over again you may find that you actually can hold the camera at slightly slower speeds than you were able to before.
Conclusion
There’s no question that if you want to capture the best possible photos at the best quality in low light conditions, then a tripod will give you the best results. But in situations when that might not be possible, using the tips and tricks above might help you capture the shots you need.
Anything else? What tricks do you use to capture photos in low light conditions without a tripod?
The post 6 Tips To Help You Shoot In Low Light Without a Tripod by Kav Dadfar appeared first on Digital Photography School.
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How to Plan and Take Killer Sunset Photos on Your Next Vacation
Who doesn’t love a good sunset photo? There’s something about that colorful, ethereal time of day that strikes a cord with just about every person. But as appealing and ordinary as sunsets are, the ability to capture that magical time of day as a photo can be surprisingly difficult.
Photo by Martin Genev
Yes, gear and camera settings are important. However, the ability to be in the right place at the right time of day is arguably the most important factor to photographing a sunset. Below, I’ll highlight several tips for planning
Yes, gear and camera settings are important. However, the ability to be in the right place at the right time of day is arguably the most important factor to photographing a sunset. Below, I’ll highlight several tips for planning
Find the best sunset location
If you’re visiting a new town and searching for an ideal sunset spot, your best bet is to do some online searches. Do a Google image search for “[location] sunset” and see what pops up. Better yet, visit stock image sites and enter similar search queries.
In most cases, you’ll see sunset photos taken from one or two popular locations. It might take some digging to find out exactly where those spots are, but once you have the answer, you’ll know where to shoot.
What time is the sunset?
A simple Google search will tell you exactly when sunset happens in the location of your choice. Keep in mind, however, that the hour or so before sunset is the ideal time of day for most photographers, so you’ll want to show up at your chosen sunset location closer to Golden Hour.
To really hone in the ideal times of day to shoot in a new location, the PhotoPills app is a handy tool. It’s packed full of information that can help you plan and execute outdoor photo shoots.
Image courtesy of PhotoPills
Camera settings for sunset photos
Your ideal camera settings for shooting a sunset depend on a variety of factors, but generally speaking, these are some rules to go by.
Shoot in RAW
When it comes to shooting the sunset, one of the biggest challenges is making sure your camera captures the same warmth and vibrancy that your eyes are seeing. You can typically make White Balance and Picture Style tweaks in camera (more on those below). But just in case, it’s also a good idea to shoot in RAW to give you greater creative control when you post-process the image.
Set White Balance
Leaving your camera White Balance set to Auto might suffice. However, if the color cast of your image is looking too cool or slightly off, try setting your White Balance to Daylight or Cloudy to warm up your shot.
Shoot in Aperture Priority
What shooting mode you should use is certainly debatable, but Aperture Priority will give you greater control over the depth of field. Shooting with a small aperture (f-step of f/16 or higher) will give you a large depth of field. This is ideal if you want more of your scene in focus.
Keep ISO Low
To avoid excessive noise in your image, maintain the lowest possible ISO for the amount of light you have available. If it happens to be a cloudy sunset or you’re shooting a scene with lots of shadows, you might have to increase your ISO unless you use a tripod.
Composition tips for unique sunset photos
After you’ve got your ideal sunset spot secured, it’s time to start thinking about what kind of sunset image you want to capture.
Keep this in mind: the way that most people photograph a sunset is to whip out their camera at hand, point it directly at the sunset and start snapping away. There’s nothing wrong with capturing the sunset this way, but it doesn’t always make for unique images.
If you’re trying to think outside of the box and get an interesting sunset photo, try some of these tips.
Zoom in
For most spontaneous sunset photographers, the camera at hand is their point and shoot or cell phone. These cameras are usually equipped with wide-angle lenses. Set yourself apart from the crowd by picking an interesting feature and zooming in.
Shoot away from the sun
Instead of shooting directly into the sun, consider pointing your lens in the opposite direction. The bright and often vibrant colors generated by the sunset can make the scene in the opposite direction equally alluring, without having to compensate for shooting directly into bright light.
Wait for Blue Hour
Every photographer has heard about Golden Hour, that magical time of day just before sunset. Lesser known is Blue Hour, that brief time of day that begins roughly 10 minutes after the sun has set (and before it has risen at dawn).
This image was taken just after sunset during Blue Hour.
The sky isn’t as obviously colorful during Blue Hour as it is during sunset or Golden Hour. However, Blue Hour still offers a window of time when it can be best to shoot cityscapes or landscapes with deep blue tones in the sky. You will almost certainly need a tripod to shoot during Blue Hour as it is significantly darker without the sun. But the lesson here is that many more photo opportunities exist even after sunset.
Over to You
Do you have any tips for shooting sunset photos? Share your photos and tips below!
The post How to Plan and Take Killer Sunset Photos on Your Next Vacation by Suzi Pratt appeared first on Digital Photography School.
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Canon G1 X Mark III pre-production sample gallery
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The Canon G1 X III isn’t a whole lot bigger than the G5 X, but it hosts a much bigger APS-C sized sensor. Consider its 24-70mm equiv. lens, Dual Pixel AF, built-in EVF and generous dedicated controls and you’ve got a versatile tool that juuuuust fits in your coat pocket. We’ve been shooting with a pre-production model; the JPEG images in this beta gallery have been down-scaled to 90% at Canon’s request.
See our Canon PowerShot G1 X Mark III pre-production sample gallery
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How to do a Photography Alphabet Project
Do you remember the ransom notes left behind by kidnappers and villains in movies? The notes made up of different letters cut out of magazines? My first encounter with the concept of a ransom note was while watching a movie called Baby’s Day Out. The 1994 movie, aimed at kids, tells the story of a toddler kidnapped by three crooks disguised as photographers (funny, huh?). The kidnappers then leave a ransom note constructed from letters cut from magazines. Now, don’t get me wrong. I’m not encouraging kidnapping here, or any criminality for that matter. But this project does involve building up a photographic library of text, for artistic purposes only!
Now, don’t get me wrong. I’m not encouraging kidnapping here, or any criminality for that matter. But this project does involve building up a photographic library of text, for artistic purposes only!
We encounter so much written language these days that it is often overlooked as a photographic subject. Written language in any environment is made up of an endless combination of fonts, colors, shapes, and applications. Of course, there are random text generators online, but automated programs won’t add anything to your photographic practice.
By scoping out letters in the field you’ll train your photographic senses to seek out unusual subjects, an invaluable skill for any photographer. By concentrating on an unusual yet familiar subject, you can build up an interesting and varied typographic library. It’s a great way to view the world through the written word.
Some history of the alphabet
The first true alphabet was created roughly four thousand years ago in the land of Canaan. The alphabet, containing between 20-32 individual letters, didn’t contain any vowels so people had to guess what vowel sound followed each consonant based on what the word looked like. Despite this, the system worked and ended up replacing the complex system of Egyptian hieroglyphs.
The new alphabet meant that people didn’t need to memorize thousands of different symbols, allowing more people to communicate through the written word. The Greeks added vowels to the alphabet – creating the first alphabet with a letter to represent every sound in a language. From there, the alphabet spread to Italy where it evolved into the Latin alphabet. The English alphabet evolved after the Romans took the Latin language to Anglo-Saxons England, who amalgamated the Latin and runic alphabet.
Some letters are harder to find than others. For the letter Y, I had to get a bit more creative – borrowing the registration from an aircraft overhead.
What you will need
One of the great things about this project is that it doesn’t require any special equipment. You can simply grab your camera and you are good to go! However, there are a few items that you can pack to make your trip a little easier.
Bring along a folded piece of paper and a pen to take a tally of the letters you photograph. This way you won’t have to constantly scroll through the photos you have taken previously to check if you’ve stocked up on a particular letter. This is also useful when tracking numbers or upper and lower-case letters you’ve photographed. To separate the tally of each letter more easily, I use a highlighter. That way you won’t get mixed up or add a mark under the wrong letter.
Scouting for letters
A rusty bus zone sign makes for an unusual addition to your alphabet stockpile.
Like many subjects, once you start looking for something, you become attuned to the sight of it. This honing-in on detail is an invaluable skill for photographers, who often have to decipher both the detail and greater landscape simultaneously.
For starters, try collecting letters to make up a phrase. Then go on to building the whole alphabet. The more variety the better. As an extra challenge, try photographing a different source for each letter or add numbers to the mix.
I found plenty of material from traffic and warning signs alone. You may notice that many signs are made up of eye-catching colors. Red and yellow shades draw attention, so they are commonly used for warnings. By incorporating these bright colors into your collage, you’ll create a very attractive composition. You could even photograph the labels on tins and packets of food. Though if you’re doing this in a supermarket or grocer, be sure to check with the manager first.
Signage, graffiti, names etched into concrete, there is an endless supply of letters for you to photograph. Post your results in the comments below and nobody gets hurt!The post How to do a Photography Alphabet Project by Megan Kennedy appeared first on Digital Photography School.
