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Google launches Google One cloud storage plans, offers 2TB for $10/month

If you are the kind of photographers who likes backing up your images and other data in the cloud, you should have a closer look at the new cloud storage plans that have just been announced by Google.

The new plans are called Google One, and they replace the existing Google Drive plans. There is a 100GB option for $ 2 a month, $ 3 a month get you 200GB of storage and a full 2TB will set you back $ 10 a month. The latter represents a 50% price reduction compared to the equivalent Google Drive plan.

As a consequence, the existing 1TB/$ 10 plan is discontinued but, as before, you can still get up to 30TB for $ 300 a month if you’re really storage hungry. Storage space can be used for storing any kind of files on Google Drive, attachments and emails in Gmail, and original quality images and videos (including 4K resolution) in Google Photos.

The new plans all come with live chat support—which previously exclusive to G Suite business account users—and will roll out in the US “in the coming months” before migrating to other regions shortly thereafter.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

May 16, 2018
Microsoft unveils the Surface Hub 2: A huge collaborative 4K+ 50″ display

Microsoft has expanded its Surface product line with the new Surface Hub 2, a sequel to the original Surface Hub introduced in early 2015 (and which you probably never heard of).

The Surface Hub 2 is a large 50.5-inch 4K+ collaborative display with portrait/landscape modes and pen support. Microsoft says Surface Hub 2 was designed for teams “regardless of location,” enabling them to video chat, view content, write directly on the screen, and daisy-chain multiple displays together.

Surface Hub 2 brings together Office 365, Microsoft Teams and Whiteboard, and Windows 10. Up to four displays can be used together in either portrait or landscape mode; the user can also toggle between those modes by manually rotating the screen. In addition to wall mounts, Steelcase worked with Microsoft to create rolling stands for Surface Hub 2.

Microsoft confirms that Surface Hub 2 supports multi-touch and features 4K cameras that rotate with the device. Far-field microphone arrays and speakers enable communicating with remote team members, plus there’s support for multi-user sign in so that multiple people can be authenticated on the workspace.

The company decided to use an atypical 3:2 aspect ratio versus the more common 16:9; the exact resolution hasn’t been stated. Though many details are still missing, it’s clear that Surface Hub 2 is designed to help anyone who engages in collaborative—particularly visual—work. Content such as images can be immediately shared with others, for example, without a break in the workflow.

Microsoft plans to start testing Surface Hub 2 with “select commercial customers” some time this year, and the product will go on sale in 2019, though the price hasn’t been provided at this time. Interested potential buyers can sign up for updates on Microsoft’s Surface Hub 2 website.

Do you see a photography use for the Surface Hub 2? Maybe as an in-studio display for tethered shooting and collaborative photo editing? Maybe something else? Let us know in the comments.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

May 16, 2018
How to Choose the Perfect Macro Lens
A common question among those starting out in macro photography is, “What lens should I choose?” Given the number of options, this is difficult to answer and depends on a number of factors (physical requirements, budget, subject, style, etc.). There is no one ideal macro lens. However, this article will provide a guide to choosing the ideal macro lens for your needs, focusing on three main considerations: focal length, image quality, and price.

A Note About Image Quality

When it comes to choosing lenses, photographers often focus on image quality, especially sharpness.

I am happy to tell you that, for macro photography, this is generally less of an issue. Why? Macro lenses are incredibly sharp. Even lenses on the lower end of the price spectrum offer professional-level sharpness, especially when stopped down slightly. I have used a half-dozen macro lenses over the course of my photography career, and I have never been dissatisfied with the level of sharpness.

However, this does not mean that low-end macro lenses are indistinguishable from the pricier options. Expensive macro lenses do often provide better sharpness and bokeh.

Furthermore, cheaper macro lenses do sometimes have problems with chromatic aberration (generally purple and yellow fringing that occurs in the high contrast parts of images). This can be corrected with post-processing, but I prefer to avoid chromatic aberration whenever I can. When I discuss different lenses below, I note any chromatic aberration problems that I’ve experienced.

Focal Length

I will center this discussion around focal length; this is an easy way of narrowing down potential macro lenses because focal length often determines and limits your macro photography options.

Macro lenses can be classified into three focal-length categories: short (35-60mm), mid-range (90-105mm), and long (150-200mm).

The Short Macro Lens
- Pros: Lightweight and inexpensive.
- Cons: Less impressive bokeh, short working distance (bad for insects).
I took this dahlia image using a short macro lens, the Nikon 60mm f/2.8D.

Short macro lenses tend to be used for more casual macro outings, or as “all-purpose lenses” that you switch to macro when needed. They’re easy to store, easy to carry, and pretty inexpensive. They’re also easier to hand-hold because of their small size.

However, a big drawback with short macro lenses is the short working distance. Working distance refers to the distance from the end of the lens to the subject. In order to do high magnification photography with, say, a 60mm macro lens, the subject has to be extremely close to the lens. This can cause problems. First of all, insects generally require a bit of distance when photographed, so getting close often isn’t an option.

This tulip photograph was taken with a Nikon 60mm f/2.8D.

Additionally, your head (or your camera) might cast an unwanted shadow onto the subject, depending on the lighting conditions. Shorter lenses also tend to have less pleasing bokeh.

However, if you are looking to do casual macro photography with more portable equipment and strong image quality, then a shorter macro lens might be just the thing for you.

If you’re a Canon shooter on a budget, you should look at the Canon 60mm f/2.8 (at $ 399)or the Canon 35mm f/2.8 IS (at $ 349). The latter offers image stabilization, which can often be quite useful for handheld macro photography. For Nikon photographers, look at the Nikon 40mm f/2.8G (only $ 225).

Another tulip photograph that was taken with the Nikon 60mm f/2.8D.

If you’re a photographer with a bit more to spend, you should consider the Nikon 60mm f/2.8G (at $ 596) or the Tamron 60mm f/2.0 for Nikon ($ 524) and for Canon ($ 524).

Finally, you might consider the Nikon 60mm f/2.8D (at $ 517). This lens is near and dear to my heart because it was the first macro lens I ever purchased. I was always quite impressed by its sharpness. It is worth noting that the autofocus is quite slow, but I always use manual focus when shooting macro (and you probably should, too!), so this was not a problem.

A final photograph with the Nikon 60mm f/2.8D.

Mid-Range Macro Lenses
- Pros: Larger working distance, somewhat inexpensive, very good bokeh, lightweight.
- Cons: Working distance still fairly short.
A flower image that was taken at 105mm.

Mid-range macro lenses are my personal favorite among the macro options. They are a great option for flower photography, especially more abstract level flower photography like I tend to do. Why?

First of all, these lenses are relatively lightweight, which means that I can hand-hold them without much trouble at all, even in low light. This allows for much greater flexibility.

Second, a mid-range macro lens offers a perfect working distance for flower photography. I like to get very close to the flowers that I am photographing. Not so close that I am nearly touching the flower, but not so far that other flowers, leaves, and branches get in the way.

A rose image which was taken with the Canon 100mm f/2.8L.

Third, these lenses offer high-quality optics for what is often a very low price. For example, the Tamron 90mm f/2.8, (which is generally the least expensive of these mid-range macro lenses at $ 649), affords images with outstanding sharpness and bokeh.

If you desire to do insect photography, or if you often photograph with a tripod and want the increased image quality of a 150-200mm, I would recommend looking at a longer macro lens. However, if you are interested in doing handheld flower photography or if you’re on a budget but want a more dedicated macro lens, I recommend one of those mid-range lenses mentioned above.

First among the less expensive options is the aforementioned Tamron 90mm f/2.8 for Nikon and for Canon. At one point in time, this was my workhorse lens. While I had occasional issues with chromatic aberration, the sharpness, bokeh quality, and price more than made up for it. Another option around this price-point is the Tokina 100mm f/2.8 for Nikon and for Canon.

This daisy image was taken with the Tamron 90mm f/2.8 (non-VC) lens. I love the bokeh this lens produces.

Looking toward medium-level prices: the Canon 100mm f/2.8 Macro USM gets great reviews, as does the upgrade of the previously mentioned Tamron 90mm f/2.8, which has been modified to offer vibration compensation technology. Sigma also offers the 105mm f/2.8 macro with optical stabilization.

I took this image with my favorite lens: the Canon 100mm f/2.8L.

Finally, on the pricier side, we have the Nikon 105mm f/2.8G VR ($ 896) and the Canon 100mm f/2.8L IS ($ 749), both of which offer vibration reduction/image stabilization.

I must say, if I had to pick one lens to use forever—out of all the lenses that I’ve owned or even held in my hands—it would be the Canon 100mm f/2.8L. It’s pin sharp, the image stabilization allows for shooting handheld in low light, and the bokeh is a dream come true.

Long macro lenses
- Pros: Best working distance, generally excellent bokeh and image quality.
- Cons: Heavy, often very expensive.
I took this high magnification image with the Sigma 150mm f/2.8 (non-OS).

Longer macro lenses tend to have astonishingly good image quality—for a (generally hefty) price. The bokeh and sharpness on the Sigma 150mm f/2.8 (for $ 1099), for instance, is excellent.

I’m very impressed with the bokeh offered by the Sigma 150mm f/2.8 macro lens.

These lenses also offer the best working distance of the bunch, which is often essential for insect photography.

Another advantage of the longer working distance is the ability to use a creative macro technique: shooting through out of focus flowers.

A third image was taken with the Sigma 150mm macro. I shot through several other flowers to give this image a colorful wash.

Yet these lenses are quite heavy, which makes hand-holding for long periods difficult, and doing so in low light nearly impossible. You’ll want to consider these lenses if you wish to do high-level insect photography, or if you desire top-notch image quality and don’t mind the weight or price.

The long macro lenses include the less expensive Sigma 150mm (non-OS), which is a bit harder to find, but offers excellent image quality and is built like a tank. It’s my backup macro lens (after the Canon 100mm f/2.8L), and I turn to it when I want a bit more working distance.

Next, we have the Tamron 180mm f/3.5 and the Sigma 150mm f/2.8 OS.

And then, offering stunning image quality with a high price tag, are the Nikon 200mm f/4 ($ 1792), and the Canon 180mm f/3.5L ($ 1399). While I have not used either of these lenses, I have read rave reviews of their optics, especially the Canon 180mm f/3.5L.

This is another image taken with the Sigma 150mm macro. I shot through another coneflower to give this image a purple wash.

Conclusion

While most macro lenses allow for high-quality images, different ones will meet certain needs better than others.

To summarize:
- If you are looking for a more general purpose lens for casual macro shooting, choose one of the short-range lenses.
- But if you are looking for a more serious macro photography lens and prefer to shoot handheld with greater flexibility, go with one of the mid-range lenses.
- Finally, if you want to shoot insects or want perfect image quality, choose a long macro lens.
Still uncertain about which lens to purchase? Ask your questions in the comments section below, and I will do my best to help!

The post How to Choose the Perfect Macro Lens appeared first on Digital Photography School.

Digital Photography School
May 16, 2018
Video: A Sony flash ‘feature’ you may not like, and how to work around it

Photographer Robert Hall sent us his latest video, because he’s found some interesting things about the way the live view and EVF on recent Sony full-frame mirrorless cameras respond when you attach a flash or flash trigger to the hot shoe. And, usefully, he’s also found a workaround.

Like many mirrorless cameras, the Sonys offer a choice of whether the preview display reflects your settings (to help assess exposure) or ignores them to give a consistently bright preview (useful if you’re working with strobes in a studio). This is one of the key advantages a digital preview can offer over an optical viewfinder. You select this by turning “Setting Effect” On or Off in the Live View Display menu.

However, when you attach a flashgun or trigger, this setting is over-ruled, automatically switching to a ‘corrected’ preview simulating the metered exposure. This is a behavior we quite liked when we tested the camera, but Hall points out that it’s not very helpful if you want to assess the contribution of ambient light to your scene. It essentially surrenders the advantage of using a digital preview.

This, in turn, led Hall to work out what the ‘Shot Result Preview’ option—assignable to a custom button—is for. It lets you work around the camera’s enforced behavior when you have a flash or trigger attached, albeit at the cost of one of your custom buttons. We checked with some other brands and found Panasonic cameras do the same thing as Sony, but without any kind of workaround.

From our perspective, it would be much simpler to add a second option after the ‘Settings Effect’ On/Off option in the menu: one that lets you define what happens when you add a flash. That way you can accommodate the preferences of both kinds of photographer, but without the need for workarounds.

It also goes to show: for all that we criticize the complexity of menus in current cameras, it’s extremely difficult to build a camera that works the way every user will want. It also highlights the occasional need to re-assess the way cameras work, from the ground up, rather than gluing patches and workarounds on top of what’s already there.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

May 16, 2018
More Lessons from the Masters of Photography: Edward Weston
In any art form, we have those who seem to transcend the medium itself. Those who by their very accomplishments earn the respect and admiration of those who view their work. We call these esteemed individuals “Masters”. In photography, there great names that we hold high because their photographs move us on some emotional, nearly spiritual plain. We see these people as masters of photography not simply because of their level of technical skill but how their application of those skills makes us feel. At the same time, we strive to reach that same level of proficiency.

In this installment of Lessons from the Masters of Photography, we are going to examine the work of Edward Weston. We will look at the photographs and also the man to see what valuable lessons they can teach us about photography.

Edward Weston

Edward Weston by Fred Archer- 1915

Weston was born in Highland Park, IL on March 24th, 1886. He began photography at the relatively young age of 16 when he was given a No. 2 Bulls-Eye camera by his father. The camera used 3 ½ inch roll film and Weston used the incredible little box to make photographs around Chicago where he spent a large portion of his childhood.

After moving to California in 1906, he worked as a surveyor and began working in photography essentially as a “door-to-door” photographer. A couple of years later, Weston would return to Illinois to attend the Illinois College of Photography where he became proficient in darkroom and camera techniques. Finally, in 1911, he opened his first studio in Tropico, California. The rest, as they say, is history.

Edward West went on to become one of the most dominating forces in the world of photography and is now considered by many to be one of the first great American photo makers. His work ranges from landscapes to fine art nudes and still life. In this article, we’re going to look at a few of the many lessons you can learn from the great Ed Weston, one of the Masters of Photography.

There are no Rules

How many times have you stopped yourself from placing a horizon dead center in a composition because it isn’t generally considered correct? Have you worn out the Rule of Thirds?

Do you always want to retain detail in the shadows each and every time? If you ever don’t make a photo in a certain way because it isn’t the “correct way”, then you are limiting yourself and your work…and Ed Weston would likely agree with me.

Weston believed there were no set “rules” to composition, He saw photography as a progression in self expression and would photograph the scene or subject based on what he felt, not necessarily based on any set rules.

When you photograph, always remember that while there a few technical constraints the majority of the creative side of your photograph is completely up to you. Be like Edward Weston and don’t hold back just because what you want to do is unique.

Beauty is Everywhere

If you look at some of Weston’s most celebrated works, you’ll see that they consist of everyday items that you might have in your home right this second; lettuce, sea shells, even a toilet. In fact, what is considered to be one of his most famous photographs is nothing more than a bell pepper.

Pepper #30 by Edward Weston, 1930/Image courtesy Sotheby’s

Weston made the everyday commonality of objects disappear. One of my favorite quotes by him is as follows:

“This then: to photograph a rock, have it look like a rock, but be more than a rock. Significant presentation – not interpretation.”

What’s Weston telling us here? Is he just being overly dramatic as some of us photographers tend to be (as my hand slowly raises)? Or is he saying that we should see the things around us not only as what they are but also what they could be?

Dunes, Oceano By Edward Weston, 1936

Beauty and therefore photographic material surrounds us all. Don’t overlook something because it appears simple. Instead, attempt to see its beauty photographically and learn to use your camera to show that quality in your work.

Use Simple Techniques in a Grand Way

Something I found surprising as I learned more about Weston is that most of (if not all) of his photographs were contact prints. This means that the negative is placed directly on top of or in very close contact with the printing paper. A contact print is the same size as the negative it is birthed from and in the case of Weston that was usually 8×10 inches.

Can you imagine that? All these great photographs were printed with extremely simple methods using nothing more than a negative, a piece of paper sandwiched in a wooden box, and light. The magic happened when Weston would add in the most important thing of all; his immense skill.

You see, Weston might have used simple tools, but the way in which he used them made all the difference. In your photography, never forget that amazing things can come very very simple means. The important thing is learning how to use the tools you do have expertly. Don’t believe me? That Pepper #30 from earlier…it was shot in a tin funnel on Weston’s kitchen table.

Some Final Thoughts on Edward Weston

I realize as I close out this article that it is March 24th, Edward Weston’s birthday. Oddly fitting as I think back on the legacy and lessons he left us to help better ourselves as photographers.

Weston was a master of making the simple profound. He used simple techniques and wasn’t afraid to bend the accepted “rules” in order to get the photography he saw fit. As you continue on your photographic journey I urge you to learn more about Edward Weston and his wonderful work as you discover more ways to become a better photo maker.

Read other dPS articles on the masters of photography here:
- More Lessons from the Photography Masters: David Burnett and Vivian Maier
- Lessons from the Masters: Robert Capa and Jerry Uelsmann
- Cartier-Bresson and Stieglitz – Study the Masters of Photography to Become a Better Photographer
- Masters of Photography: Bruce Davidson, Master of the Subway
- Masters of Photography – Yousuf Karsh Portrait Photographer
- Masters of Photography – Ansel Adams
- Photography Lessons I Learned Growing Up Around Ansel Adams
The post More Lessons from the Masters of Photography: Edward Weston appeared first on Digital Photography School.

Digital Photography School
May 15, 2018
ACDSee Photo Studio Ultimate 2018 Guide for Beginners
ACDSee Photo Studio Ultimate 2018 was released recently and it has a lot of options included in a single software program. It offers a combination of features covered by the likes of Lightroom, Bridge, and Photoshop in one setup at a competitive price.

Depending on your skill level, it caters to beginner through to advanced users. This new 2018 version combines previously standalone programs into one with some new features added. Development for future versions is also underway, so it’s an option that is undergoing improvement.

For the purposes of this article, I will be using Lightroom and Photoshop as the basis for comparison as those are the tools I currently use.

Let’s work through the usual steps that this software would be used for, from the point of view of a beginner photographer and someone new to the software as well.

Contents
1. Setting up the program
2. Basic layout
3. Import images
4. Raw image editing
5. Edit mode with layers, etc.
6. General comments
1. Setup and Install

Setup and installation are fairly standard. You are required to set up an account as part of the install process (I tried to skip out of it but it canceled the Install when I did) which then requires an extra registration step with an email confirmation. However, once that is done there are no other impediments to using or starting up the program.

It does allow you to choose which drive/directory/folder you want to install it into as well if you want to use a non-standard install path.

2. Basic Layout

Basic layout when the software first opens.

This is the default setup upon opening up the program. It’s set to view the Pictures Library and is in Manage Mode. The modes are on the right-hand side at the top of the screen and take you to the different functions available. The Modes we will be looking at in detail are Manage, Photos, View, Develop and Edit in this article.

Catalog tab where you can view images which have been rated or labeled or by other categories.

On the left-hand side under the File menu, are three tabs. First is the Folders tab which is the default file structure. Next is the Catalog tab which appears to allow you to view/sort images that have been rated with numbers or colors. It did pick up the color labels I had previously applied to images within Lightroom, which was interesting.

By going back to the Folder tab to select the folder and bring up the images, you can then go back into Catalog. If you select an image you are then able to rate it with a number or color.

Manage mode with a folder of images loaded up for viewing.

View and Manage Modes

Back in the Folders tab in Manage Mode, if you select an image it comes up with EXIF data and a histogram in the bottom left panel. The right-hand panel pops up with all the metadata and also allows you to rate the image there as well.

Photos mode offers three different ways to view your images. In the bottom right-hand corner it has three numbers; 7, 31, and 365 – these allow you to sort by week, month or year. The above image shows the images sorted by year. You can scroll visually through all your images.

While you can move easily between Photos and Manage Modes. But if you want to go to View mode you have to click on an image within Photos Mode to open it. Double-clicking on an image in Photos mode will automatically open it in View Mode.

View Mode default layout.

View Mode is similar to Adobe Bridge, where you have a filmstrip to view images at the bottom and some basic edit functions on a toolbar on the left just above the thumbnails.

Given that at this point in time no image editing has happened, and the tools are basic automated functions, you may not want to do anything here.

Develop Mode

Develop Mode default layout with the editing panel on the left

Develop Mode is the Raw Editor. It is laid out very similar to Lightroom except the edit panel is on the left. However, it can be customized and moved to the right if you prefer.

Edit Mode

Edit mode with workspace modified slightly – the Layers panel is on the right

Edit Mode is the advanced edit functionality. This is where you find layers, masks, text, and other features generally found in Photoshop. The tool palette on the left-hand side originally went along the top of the image but I moved it.

The 365 mode offers options for subscription licensing which is probably not relevant if you bought the perpetual license.

The Dashboard Mode

Dashboard Mode default layout.

The Dashboard Mode offers interesting ways of interrogating your database for information – how many files you have, what camera is used most often. It doesn’t appear to be editable beyond the data it provides so you can’t find out things like your most commonly used lens focal lengths or apertures.

The last mode is a Message Center. I had no messages to view.

In summary – there are three different ways to view your images, a raw editor, an advanced editor and other functions of less relevance.

3. Importing Images

As I have been a Lightroom user since LR3, I have several years of images already stored on my computer. I store my image files on a NAS (Network Attached Storage) so I was interested to see if they would be found and accessible, as some programs have issues with NAS functionality.

The good news is ACDSee happily found the images on my NAS and I was impressed at how quickly it loaded them up for preview. It was significantly faster than LR usually imports images and loads previews.

Manage Mode showing the network with the NAS folders viewable.

Therefore doing an image import test was also necessary.

File > Import >From Device found my CF card plugged into my computer and an Import Panel allowed a preview of the images, selection of images, destination choice, and file renaming. Again the image preview was very quick.

Import image panel in ACDSee Photo Studio Ultimate 2018.

On clicking Import, a light grey box opened up in the bottom right-hand corner, with a progress bar and it flicked through all the images as it was importing them. I imported 28 images and it took less than a minute.

Once it’s finished you are asked if you want to view the imported images. Clicking Yes takes you to the image folder for viewing all the images.

4. Raw Image Editing in Develop Mode

Unedited RAW file.

Develop Mode is laid out very much like Lightroom. The editing panel by default is on the left-hand side but I moved it over to the right as that is my preference. The histogram is visible with the different elements of it in different colors, but you can’t click on them and move/edit them within the histogram itself.

The main edit panel is Tune, and the others are Detail (sharpness, noise reduction), Geometry (perspective, lens corrections, and crop) and Repair (Heal and Clone).

It’s not entirely obvious but the white bits with the triangle out the bottom are the sliders, and you move them to make your adjustments. You can also change the numbers or click on the arrows. It does not appear to reset to zero if you double click on the bar as the whole bar is active.

Image after edits applied.

The above image has been edited with the settings visible, plus a few other panels. In general, I found it a bit more aggressive than LR would be in comparison so if you prefer a more subtle approach, be delicate with your application of the sliders.

The main blueberry in my image had a mark on the front so I decided to test out the Heal function. While it was a bit slow to apply and appeared to do it in stages, I was quite surprised at how well it worked. Upon viewing at 100%, there are some blue color blotches that would look a bit unnatural if this image was printed, but to the casual glance (or online viewing) it’s not obvious this image had been healed. A much better job than my LR6 can do.

Image before Heal applied and scratch visible – viewed at 100%

Image after several brush strokes of Heal applied – viewed at 100%.

I also experimented with other things in the Develop Mode. There is an option to copy and paste settings between images, you can apply a vignette, and tweak its settings.

To save the image there are several options. Done opens up a dialog box to Save or Save As like a standard file-save function in Windows. Save gives you a drop-down box to Save As, Save a Copy, or Export.

The Export option opens up this window which allows you to choose things like destination, change the name, format, and size. Similar to the standard Export functionality in Lightroom.

Export images panel.

5. Edit Mode – Layers and other options

Edit mode with an image open for editing.

Edit Mode is where you can do the kind of editing for which Photoshop is often used. It has support for Layers, Masks, Adjustment Layers, Text, etc. I moved a few panels around to make the workspace more familiar but otherwise, the above screenshot shows the basic Edit Mode setting.

One of the new features of Edit Mode is the Actions – which seem to be a combination of LR Presets and PS Actions. They are only available in Edit Mode under Tools. There are several different categories and a Preview Browser offers an idea of what the final outcome will be.

Actions browser showing a preview of the effects.

To apply hit Play. The effect is applied directly to the base layer which is a bit limiting as you cannot edit the effect in any way and it is applied with quite a lot of enthusiasm. Adding a blank layer and applying to that didn’t work, which was a shame as you could have applied edits to the action layer that way.

Image after Grunge Action applied.

For comparison, I edited my image manually by adding a couple of texture layers and masked off the heavy texture with a soft brush to have a more gentle effect.

An alternative version of the image with some grunge texture layers manually added, adjusted individually, and heavy texture masked off to soften the overall outcome.

One limitation in adding texture layers manually was not being able to drag them across from an open instance of Windows Explorer, which I can do with Photoshop.

Once you’re ready to save the file you have File>Save/Save As/Save as a Copy/Export to choose from.

6. General Comments

Looking at this from a beginner’s perspective, someone new to photography and new to editing, ACDSee Photo Studio Ultimate 2018 has a lot of benefits:
- It’s available as a perpetual standalone license or a subscription.
- It offers image management, RAW editing, and advanced editing features.
- For a novice, it has all the functionality you are likely to need in one program.
- Image editors are not the easiest programs to learn and use but this doesn’t make it any more complicated.
- It looks familiar in comparison with other popular programs in the market.
As an advanced user of both Lightroom and Photoshop, there are a few things that I’d prefer worked differently as follows:
- Visually the dark grey tone in the background is darker than I prefer and I was unable to easily find an option to change it.
- When adding other images or textures, it’s easier to find them in a second monitor via Windows Explorer and drag it onto my image – this is easy to do in Photoshop but ACDSee didn’t allow it in the Develop mode, only in Layers. It does have an “Add a File as a Layer” button which is a good workaround.
- In Develop Mode I was able to select a second monitor for viewing my image, but it stayed static on the original image view and didn’t reflect any of the changes I made to the image which was a bit baffling.
- If you are in Edit mode and have applied Layers to the image you cannot go back into Develop mode unless you save the flatten it. Not a really a complaint, just that it works a bit differently than I was expecting.
Conclusion

The full price of ACDSee Photo Studio Ultimate 2018 is $ 149.99 USD for the standalone perpetual license and there is also a free 30-day trial. It also offers a monthly (or annual) subscription which allows use on up to five devices, updates, and cloud storage as an alternative. Prices for the subscription vary depending on Personal or Business use.

At less than $ 100 USD for an upfront one-off cost, it offers an image management feature, a RAW image editor with a lot of features and functionality and advanced editing via layers, masks, adjustment layers and other extras.

For a beginner to either photography or editing, there is a lot on offer with ACDSee Photo Studio Ultimate 2018. Yes, it has some quirks and annoyances in comparison to other programs but nothing that renders it difficult to use (unless your eyesight is bad).

As a package to get a beginner started and provide everything you are likely to need, this is a competitive software solution for the general purpose user. Strong contender both on price and the fact it offers everything you are likely to need in one place, making it consistent and easy for a beginner to use and manage.

Disclaimer: ACDsee is a dPS advertising partner.

The post ACDSee Photo Studio Ultimate 2018 Guide for Beginners appeared first on Digital Photography School.

Digital Photography School
May 15, 2018

Brands, breakthroughs and bias: Here’s why you’ve heard so much about Sony recently

If it feels like we’ve been writing a lot about Sony recently, you haven’t been imagining things: we’ve been writing about its products and technologies quite a bit. But there’s a good reason for that – the company has simply given us a lot to write about.

A period of intense, sustained activity, set against a backdrop of relative inactivity from its competitors has seen Sony receive probably more coverage than any other brand.

Ever since it bought Konica Minolta’s camera business, Sony has been trying to find a foothold in a market sector that’s historically been dominated by two camera makers. Its first attempts were to crowd-out the shelves with ‘me-too’ SLRs. Actually, that’s not quite fair, the a350 was pretty innovative, in its own way. But despite offering lots of models often at low prices, this didn’t yield the desired results.

Sony’s attempts at innovation don’t start with the RX and a7 cameras, but the relentless pace of its updates are a relatively recent trend.

But Sony’s more recent moves, particularly the embrace of full-frame mirrorless and 1″ sensor compacts, along with numerous additional features arriving in the realms of video, sensor technology and autofocus, have included some significant steps forward for the industry. And ones that are relevant for a broad range of photographers.

This has left us with a lot of technology and features to write about. Sometimes this comes in the form of a standalone tech article, other times in the reviews themselves, as we try to explain the real-world benefits and shortcomings we’ve encountered while using them.

Of course we’ve seen this before: periods of innovation from various manufacturers as the industry grows and changes. The introduction of the first mirrorless camera by Panasonic, for example, or its subsequent improvements in video (we often joke that the launch of a GH series camera means we all have to learn more about film-making). Fujifilm was the first to offer on-sensor phase detection and, while divisive, its X-Trans color filter array and DR Modes have given us plenty to talk about.

Mirrorless cameras, as pioneered by Panasonic and Olympus have been the area with most innovation in recent years. Again, this has meant we’ve written about them a lot, as the technology has improved.

What’s unique, though, is the continued drive, this sustained flood of products and of new technologies that Sony has recently been responsible for. And, more starkly, this has come at a time when the industry’s largest two companies have been comparatively quiet. Over the past four years, Sony has released around 60% more new high end (>$ 1000) models than any of its rivals.

This has come at a time when the industry’s largest two companies have been comparatively quiet

This has meant that we write a lot about Sony right now. Not because it’s Sony, specifically, but because they’re the company doing so much of the running at the moment. And of course, our coverage isn’t always positive. Our job is to cover technology and innovations regardless of how well they perform, so in addition to being impressed by the capabilities of DRAM-backed Stacked CMOS sensors, we’ve also written about banding, striping, and work that still needs to be done on the menu systems.

Sony isn’t the only brand innovating, of course. We continue to be impressed by Canon’s Dual Pixel AF design, particularly in terms of the benefits it brings for video shooting, and Nikon launched the D850, arguably the best DSLR the world has seen. But neither brand is delivering the constant innovation that currently sets Sony apart right now.

This is to be expected: the dominant players in the industry will be keen not to change an apparently winning formula, while the insurgent newcomer needs to offer something suitably different to entice people away from the tried and tested ‘safe’ choice.

Canon didn’t achieve its market dominance by chance. Cameras such as the EOS 5D and EOS 300D/Digital Rebel offered something none of its rivals did.

Looking back, we’ve been here before. Canon didn’t achieve its recent market dominance solely by chance: a combination of investment in CMOS technology and aggressive pricing of its mass-market DSLRs played a big role. This combination gave it several years in which its cameras had a distinct edge over most rivals.

Similarly, Nikon made great strides forward around the time of the D3 and D300. These two cameras brought hugely improved autofocus as well as a move to CMOS sensors which greatly increased low light performance (and dynamic range, in subsequent iterations).

The Fujifilm S3 Pro was the first DSLR to offer live view. It could be argued that we failed to recognize its significance at the time.

The long-expected thinning-out of the camera industry hasn’t yet happened: there are still plenty of players in the market. The thing that’s changed is that they’re all competing for a slice of a much smaller pie than they were, just a few years ago. This is likely to mean more brands trying the aggressive, fast-iteration, constant innovation approach that Sony (and, to a lesser degree, Fujifilm) is taking. It’s also unlikely that Sony can continue at this rate indefinitely: there’s every chance that its strategy is to capitalize on being first mover by staking out as much territory as it can before everyone else responds.

Manufacturers are all competing for a slice of a much smaller pie

As the remaining camera brands fight for recognition and search for tech and features to distinguish themselves, we should have plenty more to write about. Especially if, as all the rumors suggest, Canon, Nikon or both end up introducing high-end mirrorless cameras in the next twelve months. After all, despite being well-entrenched in the DSLR market, they’ll both be relative newcomers to serious mirrorless, so may feel the need to be more innovative than we’ve seen in a while.

Busy times, then. And we will cover these with the same vigor and enthusiasm we try to show for every innovative launch. Regardless of which name is on the front of the product.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

May 15, 2018

4 Reasons Why Putting Your Camera Down Can Help You Take Better Photos

We’ve all been there; in a new country, a new city or just a new part of your local town. Camera in hand, you shoot and shoot and shoot as your memory card never seems to fill up. It’s thrilling and you don’t want to waste a moment because there is so much to capture. But what if putting your camera down, even just for 20 minutes, can help you take better photos?

I don’t mean leave it unattended. But I do mean put it away or leave it behind as you go for a walk in your new environment.

I know some of you are getting the shakes at the mere thought of being without your camera in a new area, but indulge me for a moment. In this article, I will bring to light a few thoughts on why putting away your camera might actually help your photography.

1 – Greater Awareness

How can you truly capture the essence of a location without first experiencing it? There are always bright and colorful things to shoot. But if you go around grabbing each little scene like a bird grabbing nectar from a cherry blossom, you risk miss seeing the whole tree.

I had time to visualize the shot above while watching an evening program at the Treasury in Petra, Jordan. While the program played, I was seated and limited in my movements, so I looked around at the space and tried to imagine photos from each location. At the end of the program, I was only allowed 10 minutes to get my shot (which took one minute to set up and 30 seconds to take), so my time spent gaining a greater awareness for my surroundings helped me greatly to take better photos in the time allotted.

Being aware of your surroundings is also important for safety. We all know the feeling of looking through our viewfinder, or camera screen, and losing all sense of what’s going on around us. It’s the feeling of “flow” when everything else melts away and there is just the joy of photography. That lack of awareness can work against you when in unfamiliar locations.

Beyond safety, having an awareness of your surroundings will also alert you if the clouds are about to cover the sun or if your scene is becoming more or less active. Watching others around you for clues on what to shoot is the next step.

2 – Observe Others

I love people watching in new environments. Even at home, if I go shopping with my wife I will typically end up on a bench just taking in the plethora of different shoppers passing by. Even we introverts can enjoy watching how people interact.

Look for clues about relationships and friendships while observing others. Do most people seem aloof or is there a lot of interaction? Watch how transactions are negotiated in markets. Is there a lot of haggling over price before money changes hands? These clues will help you anticipate when you can get those key shots when you return with your camera.

Because I took some time to people watch when the previous train came through town in the Urubamba Valley of Peru, I knew this colorful hat-seller would work the crowd when the next train arrived. So I waited and watched and was able to capture this image.

Is there a flow to the traffic of people around you? If so, look for a good location to set up and get some candid street photos. While crowds always draw attention, look for those standing back from the bustle if you want to capture a variety of everyday life.

Now is also a good time to realize who around you might not want their picture taken. Or who is charging photographers to pose for photos?

In this shot of officers in Jordan, I hung around for a few moments with my camera down, said “Hi” and let the men get back to their conversations before taking the shot. I had noticed that they all looked intently at anyone new coming through the door and that wasn’t the shot I wanted. This more relaxed version was my goal.

3 – Observe Patterns

With patterns, I don’t mean just the cool shapes made by architecture or found in nature. I also mean the patterns humans create as they go about their day. Observing patterns will help you return with your camera (or simply get it out of your bag) and better anticipate the moment for shutter release and ultimately you will take better photos.

For instance, watching a worker at the leather tannery in Fez, Morocco or a gentleman unloading chickens in Kathmandu, Nepal, with my camera down for a minute or two, helped me to visualize the action I wanted to capture and better time my shots.

4 – Interact Differently

Imagine someone came up to you on the street and instantly lifted a camera to snap a photo of your face. How would you feel?

Empathy for strangers and how they will react to my camera pointed in their direction is why I will typically recommend you ask permission first before taking a shot. Or better yet, with your camera down or put away, interact with your subject first. See what they are doing and ask questions if you can. Something about them made you want to take their photo, so take it one step further and interact before snapping away.

I played with these kids in Peru for a bit before having them ham it up for the lens. I don’t speak Quechuan and only poor Spanish, but I can recognize kids playing “shop” with weeds and flowers when I see it. I could tell who was in charge and I played along for a few minutes, trying in vain to get a good deal on my ugly weeds, before snapping this photo.

People will interact differently with you if you approach them first with your camera down or put away. Sometimes there is a fleeting moment that most feel needs to be caught candidly. But far more often a richer image can be created when you make human-to-human contact first. Rather than human-to-camera-to-human contact.

Conclusion

If you’ve never left your camera behind for even 10 minutes, I suggest giving it a try. It’s unnerving, I know! But it can lead to seeing your new environment in a way not possible with a camera constantly popping up to your eye.

Now you tell me; do you think you can take a walk and experience a new location without your camera? Do you think it might change the way you see the world before photographing it? Will it lead to helping you take better photos?

The post 4 Reasons Why Putting Your Camera Down Can Help You Take Better Photos appeared first on Digital Photography School.

Digital Photography School

May 15, 2018
Yongnuo unveils YN50mm F1.8 II: Version 2 of its ‘Nifty Fifty’ clone

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Hong Kong camera gear maker Yongnuo has released version II of its ‘nifty fifty’ Canon clone: the YN 50mm F1.8 II. The original YN 50mm F1.8 was one of the first lenses the budget brand ever released, undercutting Canon’s already ultra-affordable EF 50mm F1.8 II. Version II continues this trend, with a price tag of just $ 75, while the original will cost you just $ 51.

Optically, the lens seems to be unchanged—you still get 6 lens elements in 5 groups which produce a 46° angle of view, and a 7-blade aperture that runs from F1.8 to F22. The updated lens does drop the minimum focusing distance from 45cm to 35cm (to match Canon’s 50mm F1.8 STM), and adds support for USB-free firmware updates that are delivered directly through the camera.

Other notable improvements, according to Yongnuo, come in the form of improved “mechanical structure and coating technology,” which apparently translate into improved “focus accuracy, auto-focus speed and light transmittance.” You’re also getting a metal mount, and focus distance markings have been added to the lens build.

Here’s the full spec sheet, in case you’re curious:

The lens is already live on eBay, where it’s going for $ 75 (compared to Canon’s 50mm F1.8 STM, which will run you $ 125). Expect the Yongnuo lens to join the rest of the YN lineup on Amazon shortly.

To learn more about this lens, head over to the Yongnuo website.

Press Release

Small Lens with Super Bokeh Effect – YONGNUO YN50mm F1.8 II

Supports USB-free Firmware Upgrade

Firmware of the lens can be upgraded through camera instead of using USB port, which not only meets the requirements of firmware upgrade and appearance design, but also avoids the incompatibility problems caused by different computer operating systems.?Note: this function needs to be supported by camera?

F1.8 Bright Aperture

Maximum aperture F1.8,bokeh effect is easily achieved ,which brings you more fun during photographing.

New Mechanical Structure, New Coating Technology

YN50mm F1.8 II has all the product advantages of the last generation. By improving the mechanical structure and coating technology, its focus accuracy, auto-focus speed and light transmittance are increased. Furthermore, it can control backlight ghost and glare.

Durable Metal Mount

YN50mm F1.8 II adopts chrome-plated and high-accuracy metal mount. It’s wearable, corrosion-resistant, and highly consistent with the body of the camera.

0.35m Closest Focusing Distance

Compared with the first generation, the closet focusing distance of YN50mm F1.8 II is shortened to 0.35m.You can get closer to the object for photography and enlarge the object.

Focus Modes: Auto Focus (AF) and Manual Focus (MF)

YN50mm F1.8 II supports auto focus and manual focus. The focus mode can be selected according to practical requirement.

Focus Distance Indicator is convenient for you to estimate the distance and the depth of field.

YN50mm F1.8 II has 7pcs of aperture blades, which helps to take picture of circular defocused spots or helps to stop down and take picture of 14-star effect.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

May 15, 2018
Nikon restructuring and strong D850 sales lead to 8x increase in annual profit

All of the camera manufacturers have been reporting their annual profits over the last month or two, and while we don’t typically cover individual company financial results, Nikon’s report stands out. That’s because, despite a modest 4% drop in revenue, the company reported a whopping 776% increase in overall profit year-over-year.

The report—which compares the fiscal year ending March 31st 2018 with the year ending March 31st 2017—shows that Nikon’s attempts to “improve profitability through restructuring” and the release of the ultra-popular Nikon D850 in July of 2017 have led to an impressive year. How impressive? Despite revenue dropping by approximately 3.2 billion yen (~$ 29 million USD), Nikon’s profits managed to jump by more than 34 billion yen (~$ 318 million USD). This translates into an 8x increase over last year’s results, which showed a profit of just 3.9 billion yen (~$ 35 million USD).

Of course, this reflects Nikon Corporation as a whole, but the news out of the Imaging division was also positive. While overall unit sales fell—due to the continued demise of the compact camera segment—strong demand for the D850 is said to have increased the sales of “high-class” cameras “significantly,” leading to a 76.2% year-on-year increase in operating profit. Restructuring helped here, too.

Here’s a relevant excerpt from the report:

As a result, revenue for the Imaging Products Business decreased by 5.8% year on year to 360,703 million yen. Operating profit, however, rose by 76.2% year on year to 30,222 million yen due to the efforts to improve profitability through the restructuring, such as the shift to a business strategy of selection and concentration and the discontinuation of operations of Nikon Imaging (China) Co., Ltd., a manufacturing consolidated subsidiary.

You can read the full report at this link, but the short version of the news seems positive, and may even push Nikon to continue focusing on the high-end market that responded so positively to the release of the D850. Does that mean a full-frame mirrorless is that much more likely? We can only speculate… and hope.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

May 15, 2018