Apple’s new AirTags are a straight-up gift for photographers. After testing one for the past couple of weeks, I’ll be hiding an AirTag in my scooter, one in my car and another one in my camera bag.
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iPhone Users: Put an AirTag in Your Camera Bag
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Rule of Thirds in Photography: The Essential Guide
The post Rule of Thirds in Photography: The Essential Guide appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.
The rule of thirds is perhaps the most well-known “rule” of photographic composition. Use it carefully, and you’ll take some truly stunning images.
But what actually is the rule of thirds? Is it really that helpful? And when can you break the rule for a great result?
In this article, you’ll discover everything you need to know about the rule of thirds. And by the time you leave, you’ll know how to use it like a pro.
Let’s dive right in.
What is the rule of thirds?
The rule of thirds is a compositional guideline that breaks an image down into thirds (both horizontally and vertically) so you have nine pieces and four gridlines. According to the rule, by positioning key elements along the gridlines, you’ll end up with better compositions.
Here is a visualization of the rule of thirds:
And to follow the rule, simply use the gridlines to position essential compositional elements.
So when shooting a flower, you would place its stem along the right or left vertical gridline:
And when shooting a sunset, you would place the horizon line along the top or bottom horizontal gridline.
(Note that your camera may actually offer a grid overlay, which you can activate in the menu; that way, you don’t have to imagine the rule of thirds. Instead, you can see it as you look through the viewfinder!)
The rule of thirds also identifies four power points at the center of each gridline intersection:
Here, you can position points of interest, such as a head (when shooting a portrait), a flower (when shooting a still life), or the eye of a pet, as shown in the image below:
As you can see, using the rule of thirds isn’t actually complicated. That’s what makes it so powerful – it’s a simple way to improve your compositions, and it requires literally zero art training or photographic experience.
I will say right up front, though:
Rules are meant to be broken, and just because you ignore the rule of thirds doesn’t mean that your composition is uninteresting or bland or otherwise bad. Despite its name, the rule of thirds is a guideline, not a hard-and-fast rule. You can absolutely create beautiful compositions without using the rule of thirds.
Also keep in mind that it’s just one composition technique among many. There are plenty other “rules” and guidelines worth considering, such as symmetry, the rule of odds, triangular compositions, and more.
At the same time, the rule of thirds is an excellent way to get started with composition. It consistently produces great results, and even professional photographers use it all the time in their work. Plus, as a wise person once told me: if you intend to break a rule, you should always learn it first. That way, you can make sure you break it as effectively as possible.
Why is the rule of thirds useful?
Now that you know how to follow the rule of thirds, it’s important to understand why it matters and what exactly it can do for your photos.
Really, the rule of thirds is about two things:
- Balance
- Dynamism (movement)
First, by positioning key elements at rule of thirds intersections or gridlines, your photo becomes more balanced. Your key elements create visual interest in a third of the composition, while also balancing out the empty space in the remaining two-thirds. This looks great and feels right to the viewer.
Second, compositions that include key elements smack-dab in the center of the frame often feel very static and boring. There’s nowhere for the viewer’s eye to wander; instead, the viewer looks at the shot, sees the subject at its center, then leaves.
But the rule of thirds encourages dynamism, where the viewer sees a key element off to the side, then takes a visual journey throughout the rest of the image.
In other words:
A rule of thirds composition provides a more engaging photographic experience.
Also, the rule of thirds draws on the way humans naturally view images. Studies show that people’s eyes usually go to one of the intersection points rather than the center of the shot – so the rule of thirds works with this natural way of viewing an image.
When to use the rule (with examples)
By now, you should know that the rule of thirds is useful pretty much all of the time. As long as you have distinct compositional elements to work with, you should consider applying the rule.
For instance, in landscape photography, you can position the horizon along the top horizontal gridline:
Also note how another key compositional element – the structure on stilts – is positioned at the upper-right power point of the frame. Thanks to this, the whole shot feels balanced and dynamic.
In portrait photography, you generally want to position the subject’s body along a rule of thirds gridline:
And it’s also a good idea to place the head of your subject at one of the intersection points (and the eyes, which are a natural point of focus for a portrait). In the photo below, the tie and flower also offer a secondary area of interest, and they’re aligned with a second intersection point:
In wildlife photography, you can align the subject’s head (and eye) with a power point:
And in flower photography, subjects look great when the stem follows a rule of thirds gridline and the petals sit atop a power point:
Quick tips for working with the rule of thirds
While it’s easy to use the rule of thirds in your compositions, it may take a little time and practice for the rule to become second nature.
Try to get in the habit of asking two questions for every photo you take:
- What are your points of interest (i.e., the areas of the photo that stand out and that you want to emphasize)?
- Where are you intentionally placing those points?
That way, you can determine your points of interest, then you can immediately place them along a rule of thirds gridline or power point.
And your composition ends up beautifully balanced.
Make sense?
Also, if you fail to use the rule of thirds in a shot, it’s not the end of the world. After all, you can always crop your photos later on! (Just make sure to keep the gridlines in mind when editing.)
By the way, if you want to start practicing the rule of thirds immediately, you can always pull up old photos and do some test cropping. See what impact it has on your photos; you might be impressed by the results.
Breaking the rules: should you do it?
As I explained above, it is possible to break the rule of thirds and end up with beautiful photos.
In fact, sometimes you can end up with an even stronger composition by ignoring the rule. So while I encourage you to learn the rule of thirds, once it’s ingrained, experiment with breaking it.
One of my favorite times to break the rule of thirds is when photographing symmetrical subjects. If you’re photographing a succulent or flower from above, the symmetry looks even more striking when perfectly centered in the frame:
This shot of a corridor is also roughly symmetrical, which increases the composition’s intensity:
And note that an image can both break and follow the rule of thirds at the same time. For instance, while the image above is mostly symmetrical, a key element (the man playing his cello) is positioned at an intersection point.
Bottom line:
Learn the rule of thirds. Then break it. And above all, have fun!
Final words
Now that you’ve finished this article, you know all about the rule of thirds, when to use it, and when to think about breaking it.
So start practicing! And watch as your compositions improve.
The post Rule of Thirds in Photography: The Essential Guide appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.
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How to Create Your Own Lightroom Presets (2021)
The post How to Create Your Own Lightroom Presets (2021) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Andrew S. Gibson.
How can you create and save presets in Lightroom?
In this article, I’m going to take you through the simple process, step by step. By the time you’re done, you’ll be able to confidently make presets of your own – and I’ll even show you how to make and apply import presets for high-quality, lightning-fast edits.
Let’s dive right in.
When should you create and apply Lightroom presets?
There are mundane edits in Lightroom that you should carry out on almost every photo.
And you can save time by creating presets that perform these jobs automatically upon import. That way, you don’t have to do editing later.
In other words: I highly recommend you apply presets to pretty much every photo you take.
(You can also apply presets during the editing process, but you’ll want to use these more sparingly.)
The fact is that RAW photos need edits to look good. And presets will help you do those edits faster than a standard editing workflow. Look at this unedited RAW file:
A straight-out-of-camera RAW file from an EOS 5D Mark II. This is the sort of image you’ll see when you import images into Lightroom without applying a Develop preset. And look at it after applying a simple preset:
The same photo, but with the Profile set to Landscape, lens corrections applied, chromatic aberrations removed, and white balance set to Auto. This is what you would see after importing the photo into Lightroom if you applied an import preset similar to the one I show you how to make in this article. The biggest benefit is that it saves you time. That’s what I’m going to teach you how to do in the next section:
Create a simple preset that you can apply upon importing. But note that you can use these instructions to create a preset of any type, whether you plan to apply it on import or not.
How to prepare a useful Lightroom preset: step by step
Now let’s take a look at the simple instructions for making a useful Lightroom preset:
Step 1: Open a photo in the Develop module
Start by selecting the photo you plan to use as your preset base. Open it in the Lightroom Develop module.
Hit the Reset button to zero out any existing settings:
(You may find it helpful to make a Virtual Copy of the photo first so you don’t undo any edits you have already made.)
Step 2: Set your Profile in the Basic panel
Next, you’ll need to pick a Profile. Think of this as a starting point or base layer, on top of which you’ll make all your edits.
So head up to the Basic panel and click to open the Profile fly-out menu:
Lightroom’s default Profile is Adobe Color, and this is where I often leave my photos – but if you’re a frequent landscape photographer, you might try Adobe Landscape, portrait photographers might try Adobe Portrait, and black and white photographers might try Adobe Monochrome. Really, it’s all about experimenting. Test out a few options and see what you like!
Remember that you can always change these settings after applying the preset if you decide they don’t work for a particular shot.
(Also, note that your Profile options may vary depending on your camera, so if you can’t find one of the options I suggested, don’t worry; you probably have other cool Profiles to try out instead.)
If you shoot a number of different genres or in a number of different styles, or if you simply like several profiles, you might consider creating a preset for each one!
Step 3: Apply profile corrections and remove chromatic aberration
Most shots suffer from slight issues due to lens aberrations. The specifics depend on your lens, which is why Lightroom comes with profiles for a huge number of lenses:
Just a few of the many lens profiles included in Lightroom. So head down to the Lens Corrections panel and check Enable Profile Corrections:
If Lightroom offers a profile matching your lens’s make and model – and it almost certainly will! – the profile corrections will be applied automatically.
I’d also recommend checking Remove Chromatic Aberration, which will get rid of unwanted fringing and is always a good idea.
Step 4: Make sure the Basic panel is ready to go
Now it’s time to look at the Basic panel. Make sure the white balance is set to As Shot:
And make sure all the other sliders are zeroed:
If you’re a fan of Lightroom’s automatic settings, you can hit the Auto button. This will automatically set the exposure, contrast, highlights, shadows, whites, and blacks, along with the vibrance and saturation. I don’t do this myself, but if it’s helpful to you, then go ahead and try it!
Also, if you shoot a mix of color and black and white, consider creating one preset for color photos and a second preset for black and white shots. Simply set the Treatment to Black and White:
Creating a preset in Lightroom
Now it’s time to actually make a Lightroom preset. The process is extremely simple:
Step 1: Click the Create Preset option
Make sure you’re in the Develop module, then click the Plus icon next to the Presets panel:
And select Create Preset:
Step 2: Determine which settings should be a part of your preset
The New Develop Preset window should come up:
Give your preset a name and select a folder to save it in:
Then select the settings you’d like to save as your preset. Hitting Check All works fine if you’re creating the preset I discussed above – though if you’ve decided to create a more targeted editing preset, you may want to only check certain boxes.
Step 3: Hit Create
Finally, once you’re ready to save your preset, press Create:
And that’s it! It’s a simple process that doesn’t take very long and can save you a lot of time when importing or editing your photos.
Applying presets upon import
To apply the preset you just created upon importing your photos, launch the Import window:
Then head over to the Apply During Import panel and set the Develop Settings menu to the appropriate preset:
(This is where creating several presets helps saves time, as you can pick the best preset for the photos you are importing.)
Then, when you click the Import button, Lightroom applies the settings from your selected preset!
Adding copyright info
While you’re in the Import window, it’s worth setting up another preset to automatically add copyright information to photo metadata upon import.
So go to the Metadata menu in the Apply During Import panel and select New.
Lightroom will open the New Metadata Preset window, where you can add information such as your name and copyright details:
So give the preset a name, then click the Check Filled button (so the relevant boxes are checked as you go along):
Under IPTC Copyright, set Copyright Status to Copyrighted and fill in the other fields appropriately (my entries are shown below).
Under IPTC Creator, add your name, website, email address, and any other appropriate details. Personally, I leave out my address – I move around a lot so it’s constantly changing (plus identity theft is a risk).
Click Done when you’re finished. Then, when you import photos, simply select the preset from the Metadata menu:
How to create your own Lightroom presets: your turn
Hopefully, you’re now ready to create Lightroom presets of your own (and you have some ideas for useful presets).
That way, you can save time and speed up your workflow!
Now over to you:
What kind of presets do you plan to create? How do you plan to use them on your photos? Share your thoughts in the comments below!
The Mastering Lightroom Collection
My Mastering Lightroom ebooks will help you get the most out of Lightroom. They cover every aspect of the software – from the Library module to creating beautiful images in the Develop module. Click the link to learn more or buy!
The post How to Create Your Own Lightroom Presets (2021) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Andrew S. Gibson.
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The Best Camera for Travel Photography in 2021
The post The Best Camera for Travel Photography in 2021 appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Matt Murray.
I love photography and I love to travel, so I often get the question, “What is the best camera for travel photography?”
When I bought my first camera in 1994, I really wasn’t thinking too hard about the decision. Growing up in Australia, I always longed to travel the world. When I was 20 years old, I got my chance – I bought my first camera and my first overseas airline ticket on the same day.
At the time, I wanted a camera that was compact, light, affordable, and weather resistant. I didn’t know much about photography, but I ended up walking out of the duty-free camera store with a Pentax Zoom 90WR. This compact point and shoot traveled with me all over Europe for the next two years and made a ton of memories. It was also my doorway into photography.
Since buying that first Pentax, I have traveled with dozens of cameras – film, instant, and digital. Although technology has changed, what I look for today is the same as what I looked for 25 years ago.
What should you look for in a travel camera?
Here is my list of ideal travel camera characteristics:
- Compact and lightweight
- An excellent fixed lens (or a good range of lenses available)
- A good range of features
- Good battery life
- Weather resistant
- A competitive price
Note that I used the word “ideal,” as there are very few cameras that offer everything on the list. In fact, one of my favorite travel camera and lens combinations is the Fujifilm X-T3 and the Fujifilm 50-140mm lens, and it’s not exactly a pocketable option.
But for this list of best cameras for travel photography, I focused on compact and lightweight models, starting with my number one pick:
1. Canon PowerShot G1 X Mark III
The Canon PowerShot G1 X Mark III is the third iteration of a popular point and shoot series from Canon. It’s sleek, it’s stylish, and it almost looks like a mini DSLR.
Many compact cameras have a tiny sensor – one inch or smaller – but not this one. The PowerShot boasts an impressive APS-C sensor, which is one of the biggest sensors offered in a camera so compact. It also features a handy zoom range of 24-72mm and an optical stabilizer for shooting in low light.
The PowerShot is easy to use and produces images with high clarity and outstanding colors. The only downside is the price tag; at around $ 1000 USD, it may be on the high end for some enthusiast photographers.
Pros
- Large APS-C sensor
- Compact size
- Articulating screen
Cons
- Premium price
2. Sony RX100 VII
The Sony RX100 VII is a small camera with an impressive zoom range. Sony keeps improving the RX100 line, and the VII is their best model yet. It may have a smaller sensor than the Canon PowerShot featured above, but the RX100 VII is still a powerful performer. It boasts impressive autofocus, a flip-screen for vlogging and selfies, a mic socket, and a huge zoom range equivalent to 24-200mm in full-frame terms.
The RX100 VII also borrows tech from Sony’s flagship models, which is why it can shoot up to 20 frames per second with no viewfinder blackout.
If you’re a watersports fan, there’s an added bonus: the RX100 has underwater housing available for surfing, diving, and snorkeling photos. At around $ 1300 USD, the RX100 VII is on the pricier side, but for serious travel photographers, it’s an excellent choice.
Pros
- Impressive autofocus
- Handy zoom range
- Up to 20 frames-per-second shooting
- Mic jack
Cons
- Expensive for a compact camera
- Smaller 1-inch sensor
- Battery life could be better
3. Fujifilm X-T30
The X-T30 has many features of the flagship X-T3, yet it’s lighter and more affordable. In 2016, I bought a Fujifilm X-T10 as a backup camera for trips to Indonesia and the Faroe Islands. It was so good I couldn’t tell the difference between images shot on the X-T10 and my X-T1.
The X-T30 is the latest Fujifilm model to take the best features from the flagship camera but in a smaller, lighter body. The X-T30 features the same 26-megapixel APS-C sensor as the X-T3 and can shoot up to a whopping 30 frames per second. And like other Fujifilm cameras, the X-T30 has face- and eye-detection autofocus, which is a big help for travel portraits and street shots. It also includes Fujifilm’s renowned film simulations for JPEG files.
You’ll get around 30 lenses to choose from (the hard part is deciding which is the best for you!). My personal go-to lens for travel photography is the XF 18-55mm f/2.8-4 lens. While there is no stabilization in the X-T30 body, there is optical image stabilization in the 18-55mm lens, and it delivers the quality you’d expect from much more expensive glass but at a fraction of the cost.
Unfortunately for photographers who like to shoot in tough conditions, the X-T30 isn’t weather resistant – it seems there are some trade-offs for a lighter, less-expensive body.
Pros
- Excellent lens lineup from the affordable XC lenses to enthusiast and professional XF lenses
- Stunning image quality with a range of JPEG film simulations
- Many of the features of the flagship X-T3 model
Cons
- No weather sealing
- The price point isn’t especially competitive
4. Nikon D5600
This next brand needs no introduction; Nikon SLRs were favored by many famous travel photographers in the 1980s and beyond. The D5600 is the latest camera in Nikon’s midrange APS-C series, and it’s a perfect choice for beginners and enthusiast photographers alike.
The D5600 boasts Nikon’s excellent ergonomics, and the camera feels reassuringly comfortable in your hand, although it’s not as compact as other models on this list. Image quality is superb and low-light shooting is very impressive. Plus, you get a fully articulating screen (for selfies, vlogging, and tough compositions), along with excellent battery life.
Pros
- Excellent image quality
- Good ergonomics and handling
- Good battery life
Cons
- No 4K video
- Not as compact as other cameras on this list
5. Ricoh GR III
Stylish minimalism: the Ricoh GR III. Ricoh has been producing super-compact GR cameras since the film heydays of the late 1990s. Those classic point-and-shoot GR models were known for their sharp wide-angle lenses and minimalist controls, and the digital line of GR cameras is no different.
The Ricoh GR III is a perfect mix of portability, optical quality, and impressive features. You get a fixed 28mm full-frame equivalent f/2.8 lens capable of producing good images, and four-stop shake reduction that ensures sharp files even in challenging light.
The GR III is often compared to another camera in this list, the Fujifilm X100V. Consider the Ricoh if you prefer a smaller camera with a wider angle of view.
Pros
- Truly pocketable
- Four-stop shake reduction
- Fantastic wide-angle lens
Cons
- The straight-out-of-camera JPEGs are not as good as Fujifilm’s
- Battery life could be better
6. Sony a6600
The Sony a6600 has an impressive spec sheet that includes Real-Time Eye AF. It’s easy to see why Sony has grabbed a big share of the mirrorless camera market in recent years: the company produces an impressive range of cameras that appeal to professionals and enthusiasts alike.
The Sony a6600 may not have a full-frame sensor like some of its stablemates, but its compact body and impressive specs make it a strong candidate for the best camera for travel photography. The a6600 features a 24-megapixel APS-C sensor, along with Real-Time Eye AF for photography and video, plus five-axis optical image stabilization. The 180-degree flip screen also makes the a6600 handy for vlogging and selfies. I do think that the layout and controls could be improved, but it’s one of the only drawbacks to an otherwise excellent camera.
Quick note: if you like the look of the a6600 but you’re on a tighter budget, also consider the a6400. It may not be as up to date as the a6600, but it offers excellent value for money.
Pros
- Small and light
- Great lens lineup
- Real-Time Eye AF
Cons
- Handling and ergonomics could be improved
7. Olympus Tough TG-6
Shockproof, dustproof, crushproof, and fogproof: the Olympus Tough TG-6 can handle pretty much anything. Going on an extreme adventure? The Olympus Tough TG-6 could be the best travel camera for you. This compact point and shoot can withstand a lot of punishment, thanks to its shockproof, dustproof, and crushproof body.
The TG-6 can also work in temperatures as low as 14 degrees Fahrenheit (-10 degrees Celsius), and it’s fogproof, even during sudden changes in temperature. As I found out on a recent trip to Indonesia – where I was frequently moving from an air-conditioned hotel room to the outside heat and humidity – a foggy camera can be a real inconvenience.
For snorkeling and diving fans, the Tough TG-6 loves being underwater as much as you do. It’s waterproof up to 49 ft (15 m), and it boasts several underwater modes, including a microscope mode that can focus on objects 0.39 in (1 cm) away.
Pros
- Super tough
- Compact
- Affordable
Cons
- Only 12 megapixels
- More suited to adventurers than enthusiast photographers
8. Fujifilm X100V
I’m a huge fan of the Fujifilm X100 series cameras (I’ve owned three of the five models released over the last decade). Even photographers loyal to other brands buy an X100-series camera as their “take everywhere” body.
The X100V is small and light, yet it features an incredible 35mm f/2 fixed lens. Other useful features include its leaf shutter and built-in neutral density filter. And of course, Fujifilm’s range of stunning JPEG film simulations are ready to use as soon as you turn on the X100V.
The best compact camera ever? The Fujifilm X100V. While the entire X100 series is great, note that the latest model, the X100V, does have an important improvement over its predecessors: it’s weather resistant. This makes it an excellent choice for photographers who shoot in sand, rain, snow, and more.
Pros
- Excellent lens
- Built-in ND filter
- Fujifilm JPEGs
- Weather resistant
Cons
- Fixed lens
- No in-body image stabilization
- More expensive than its predecessors
9. Panasonic Lumix LX100 II
For travel photographers, there’s a lot to like about the Panasonic Lumix LX100 II. The camera has a stylish design, with an aperture ring on the lens and a shutter speed dial on top of the camera for full manual control.
The Lumix LX100 II sports a fast lens with a handy 24-75mm zoom range. It also features optical image stabilization and can shoot 4K video up to 30 fps.
Although it has a smaller 17-megapixel Four Thirds sensor, the Lumix makes up for this in other ways. It can focus as close as 1.2 in (3 cm), it offers a focus stacking feature, and it even includes the ability to change focus in an image afterward.
Pros
- Excellent image quality
- Fast lens
- Small and compact
Cons
- Fixed rear screen
- Only 17 megapixels
10. Olympus OM-D E-M5 Mark III
Olympus has a reputation for making some of the most innovative compact cameras in photographic history. Their mirrorless cameras are no exception, and it’s easy to see why Olympus models have been popular with the travel influencer crowd. I’ve spoken to many people who’ve downsized to Olympus from full-frame systems, and they couldn’t be happier.
The OM-D E-M5 Mark III is one of Olympus’s latest weather-sealed Four Thirds cameras. It’s lightweight, yet it boasts impressive autofocus and excellent image quality. Other features include a fully articulating 3-inch screen, in-body image stabilization, and built-in focus stacking.
Olympus also boasts a wide range of lenses. A perfect choice for a lightweight setup is the 14-42mm EZ lens, though if you want more range, take a look at the 14-150mm.
The Olympus OM-D E-M5 Mark III is a favorite among travel influencers. Pros
- Compact and light
- Excellent image quality
- Good range of lenses
- Weather sealed
Cons
- Smaller Four Thirds sensor
- Battery life could be better
What is the best camera for travel photography?
Choosing the perfect travel photography camera is a difficult task, and one that depends on many factors. I recommend looking at the list of ideal features offered earlier in this article. Determine what you value most, then evaluate the different cameras I’ve discussed based on those criteria.
So what is the best camera for travel photography? Only you can answer that question! Research different models. And if you need to, go to a camera shop, where you can talk to the staff and hold each camera in your hands. Also try talking to people who own your top picks and ask for their honest opinions. Then, when you’re ready, buy a camera – and hit the road!
Now over to you:
What camera do you currently use for travel photography? Which of the cameras on this list is your favorite? Share your thoughts in the comments below!
The post The Best Camera for Travel Photography in 2021 appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Matt Murray.
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10 Flower Photography Tips for Gorgeous Results
The post 10 Flower Photography Tips for Gorgeous Results appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Anne McKinnell.
Are you looking to capture stunning flower photography? You’ve come to the right place!
In this article, I’m going to take you through plenty of tips and tricks for gorgeous flower shots. Specifically, I’ll explain:
- The best light for flower photography
- A simple way to create a beautiful soft-focus effect
- My secret for amazing foregrounds
- Much more!
So if you’re ready to improve your photos, then let’s get started.
1. Photograph flowers on an overcast day
Did you know that overcast skies are perfect for photographing flowers?
It’s true. The soft light of an overcast day complements the delicate petals – plus, there are no shadows and no harsh bright spots, so you can get a nice, even exposure.
You need to be careful, however. Toward the beginning and end of a cloudy day, the light gets pretty limited, which leads to unwanted blur (especially when shooting at high magnifications). So aim to photograph at midday, then pack up before the sky gets too dark.
2. Backlight will make your flowers glow
As you learned in the previous section, clouds are great for flower photography. But what about clear days? Can you shoot when the sky is bright and cloudless?
Absolutely!
You see, another type of light that is excellent for flower photography is backlight. You get nice backlight when the sun is directly in front of you, lighting your flower from behind.
Because petals are translucent, backlight makes flowers glow, like this:
Try to photograph late in the day when the sun is close to the horizon; that way, the backlight will hit your flower petals directly, plus it’ll cast a nice, warm light over the rest of your image.
(You might even be able to catch some rays of light filtering through the trees!)
3. Watch out for wind
When photographing flowers, wind is your enemy. It’ll blow your subjects in every direction, which makes it annoyingly difficult to focus (and if you’re shooting with a slow shutter speed, it’ll introduce plenty of blur).
The easiest way to avoid wind? Do your photography early in the morning when the weather is still calm. And a little wind is manageable; just bring a piece of cardboard or a reflector, then hold it up next to your flower.
If you prefer not to get up early, or if you need to take photos on a windy day, you do have a second option:
Bring your flowers inside. You don’t need a complex studio setup to get beautiful shots indoors – just put the flowers near a window and find a solid backdrop to set behind them. I photographed the flower below by taking it inside and placing it in front of a white sheet:
4. Get closer
Here’s one of the easiest ways to create stunning, unique flower photos:
Get as close as you can.
You can do this a number of ways:
First, you can use a telephoto lens and zoom in on the flower. You’ll want to pay attention to the minimum focusing distance (MFD) of the lens because some lenses just can’t focus especially close. (The MFD is usually marked on the outside of the lens, though you can also look it up online.)
If you’re lucky, your telephoto lens will focus close, and you can use it for beautiful flower shots. But what if you can’t get as close as you’d like?
You have a couple of choices. You can use extension tubes, which mount on your camera and let the lens focus closer. Or you can use a close-up filter, which attaches to the end of your lens and works like a magnifying glass.
Honestly, both of these options come with pretty significant drawbacks; extension tubes are inconvenient, while close-up filters reduce image quality. Sure, they work, and if you’re just getting started with flower photography, either method will help you take interesting close-up shots. But if you want to really improve your images, I’d recommend a dedicated macro lens, which will let you capture intimate images without the need for accessories.
5. Use a reflector
Here’s a quick tip:
Shaded flowers can make for some stunning photos (especially when you combine a shaded subject and a well-lit background!).
But you’ll need to keep your flower relatively bright. So if your subject is in the shade, use a reflector to bounce some light (this will also make your flower more vibrant!).
6. Avoid a cluttered background
Here’s another quick piece of advice:
In flower photography, the background can make or break the image. A uniform background can look great – whereas a cluttered, distracting background will draw the eye and prevent the viewer from appreciating your main subject.
Before you hit the shutter button, ask yourself:
Does my background complement the flower? Or does it distract?
And if it does distract, try to change your position until the distractions are gone, and you’re left with nothing but a beautiful wash of color.
7. Use a shallow depth of field
Shallow depth of field flower photos can look great – but what is a shallow depth of field, and how do you achieve it?
A shallow depth of field features only a sliver of sharpness. So the flower stays sharp, but the background is blurred, like this:
To get a shallow depth of field, make sure to use a wide aperture (i.e., a low f-number) such as f/2.8 or f/4. And get as close as you can to your subject while also increasing the distance between the subject and the background.
8. Keep a part of your flower sharp
A shallow depth of field effect is great – but you’ll still need to keep at least part of the flower sharp so that your viewer’s eye has an anchor point.
So do what’s necessary to get a crisp image. If you’re shooting in good light, raise your shutter speed and focus carefully. If you’re shooting in poor light, use a tripod and a remote release to avoid camera shake.
Remember: Even if there doesn’t seem to be wind, flowers always move a little. So if your flower isn’t sharp, try raising the shutter speed a stop or two.
Finally, check your focus. If necessary, focus manually. Make sure you’ve nailed the most important parts of the flower, such as the petals and the flower center.
9. Change your point of view
If you’re after unique flower photos, don’t just take a standard shot. Instead, move around and try some different angles and focal lengths.
For instance, shoot the flower from behind or from below to capture an interesting point of view. You might also try shooting down from above, getting unusually up close and personal, or zooming out for a wider environmental image.
10. Focus through another flower
“Focusing through” is a popular technique among professional flower photographers, and for good reason:
It looks really, really cool, especially when you get a lot of colorful foreground blur.
Like this:
But how can you create such a compelling image? How do you get a nice foreground blur?
You simply find a flower you want to photograph, then adjust your position until another flower sits between the lens and the flower. (The closer the foreground flower is to the lens, the better the look.)
Ultimately, the secondary flower will become a blur of color, and your final image will have a more professional feel.
Tips to improve your flower photography: conclusion
Well, there you have it:
10 easy tips to take your flower photos to the next level.
Hopefully, at least one or two of the tips speaks to you – and you feel inspired to get out and start shooting!
Now over to you:
Do you have any flower photos you’re proud of? Which of these tips do you like the most? Share your thoughts (and images!) in the comments below.
The post 10 Flower Photography Tips for Gorgeous Results appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Anne McKinnell.
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6 Times Photoshop Is Better Than Lightroom [Video]
The post 6 Times Photoshop Is Better Than Lightroom [Video] appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.
Lightroom is a fantastic editing program, but should you use it for every edit? Or is Photoshop sometimes the better choice?
In the video below, landscape photographer Mark Denney tackles these questions head-on. Denney explains how he incorporates Photoshop into his own workflow, and he lists the six times he always turns to Photoshop over Lightroom.
So if you’re wondering whether Photoshop is really necessary, I highly recommend you hear what Denney has to say. And when you’re done, leave a comment on this article letting us know whether you agree or disagree with Denney’s recommendations!
The post 6 Times Photoshop Is Better Than Lightroom [Video] appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.
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Glamour Posing Guide: 21 Sample Poses to Get You Started
The post Glamour Posing Guide: 21 Sample Poses to Get You Started appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.
Looking for glamour photography poses that’ll give stunning results?
In this article, I’m going to share 21 glamour pose ideas. You’ll find a pose or two for every model – and you can also have fun tweaking the ideas to fit your subject’s interests.
Now, some of the ideas below are nude poses – after all, posing for nudes is a part of glamour photography. But if nudes don’t interest you, that’s completely okay; feel free to skip past.
So without further ado, let me share the poses you can use for your glamour portraits, starting with:
1. Lying down sideways
This is a good starting pose for intimate glamour shots. It works well in different settings and with different surfaces; for instance, your model might lie on a bed, on the ground, in the grass, or on a sandy beach.
Make sure you get a nice head turn, and pay careful attention to the position of your model’s hands.
2. Lying down at an angle
This is a variation on the previous glamour pose, and one that works well with all body types.
Simply ask your model to lie on the ground with their far elbow propping up their head and shoulders. Make sure they angle themselves toward the camera so that their feet are farther from the camera than their head.
3. Lying parallel to the camera with the legs up
This is a lovely pose with a more playful result. Ask the model to keep her upper body lifted, with her head tilted toward the camera and directed slightly down.
Make sure your model’s legs are up – and make sure her toes are pointed over her back.
And for the best results, shoot from a low angle.
4. Lying in a triangle
This is a glamour photography classic – and it’s pretty hard to pull off.
Ask your model to lie down, body parallel to the camera. Then have her lift her upper body using a single arm.
You’ll need to check a few items:
- The supporting hand must be turned away from the body
- The head should be turned toward the camera
- The non-supporting hand should remain visible
- The feet should be stretched
5. Body down, shoulders up
This is another challenging one – it’s not easy for the model, and it’s not so easy for the photographer, either!
To shoot this pose successfully, you’ll need to ask your model to lie parallel to the camera, their upper body pushed off the ground with their elbow. (Feel free to experiment with the positioning of the non-supporting arm.)
You’ll also need to check all body parts, including the head, hips, and legs.
6. Lying back
This is a beautiful pose for outdoor shooting.
Simply ask your model to lie down, curve their back, and stretch their feet. It works great on grass, on a beach, or in a chair.
The model’s body should be parallel to the camera, or the feet should be slightly farther away than the head.
7. Lying down, back to the camera
Here’s a beautiful glamour pose for a model lying on her stomach.
The upper body should be slightly lifted, and the model should look back over her shoulder. Ask her to stretch out her legs.
This works well with all body types. Move gradually around the model while testing out different camera angles and positions.
8. Sitting with the back arched
This is a simple pose to emphasize a feminine shape. It also works well as a silhouette against a bright background (though you’ll need to get low to the ground to create the silhouette effect).
Ask your model to sit with their legs tucked and back arched. Then have them lift their elbows.
9. The sitting nude
For those doing nude photography, here’s a simple pose:
Ask your model to face the camera, then cross one leg over the other and drape an arm over the top knee.
If you’re after additional nude poses, try some variations; you can change the hand, leg, and head positioning for great results.
10. Sitting with the back to camera
This semi-nude pose is easy and gentle. The model should sit with both legs tucked. Their back should be angled slightly toward the camera, with their head looking over their shoulder.
11. Sitting parallel to the camera, knee up
This is another easy pose, one that works well in both indoor and outdoor settings.
(For a different result, try creating a silhouette against a bright background.)
Have your model sit parallel to the camera, legs out and knees bent. Ask them to raise an arm (though feel free to experiment with arm and hand positioning here).
12. Sitting and facing the camera
If done properly, this pose turns out amazing. But you’ll need to get the limb positioning exactly right – otherwise, you risk ending up with an awkward, imbalanced shot.
So ask your model to lie down and face the camera at an angle. Then have them partially sit up while keeping their legs stretched out.
This pose works well with all body types. Note that you should shoot from a slightly elevated angle.
13. Crouching parallel to the camera
Now for a challenging pose:
Ask your model to crouch with their knees up. Leg positioning is a decisive factor here, so you’ve got to get it right.
High heels are a must. You can experiment with different feet positioning, but I recommend keeping the toe of one shoe separate from the heel of the next.
14. Facing away from the camera with a head turn
If you’re after a simple and dignified nude photography pose, try this:
Ask your model to turn away from the camera, but with their head tilted back over their shoulder. Ask them to put one arm up and to wrap the other arm around their stomach.
Make sure the model’s face is not partly covered by their hand or shoulder. For a particularly romantic mood, the model can look down toward her body.
Also, her raised elbow should be pointing away from the camera.
15. Looking over the shoulder
This one’s a nude pose for less experienced models.
Ask your model to turn away from the camera, but keep their head tilted back over the shoulder.
Remember that glamour and nude photography don’t exclude props, so don’t be afraid to add a piece of cloth (a sheet or an item of clothing works well); the model can hold this against their body.
16. Leaning forward against a wall
If you’re looking for some nice wall poses, start here:
With your model leaning forward against the wall, elbows out. Her body should be angled toward the wall.
Note that you can adjust her elbow and hand positioning for additional options.
17. Leaning back against the wall
Here’s another easy wall pose:
Ask your model to lean back against the wall, head tilted toward the camera and arm up. For a more dynamic pose, they might bend one knee slightly (with the back foot resting against the wall or a ledge).
Again, endless variation and shooting angles are possible!
18. Against a wall, back to camera
For this one, have your model face away from the camera.
Ask her to shift her weight to one leg for a more dynamic pose. She can lean against the wall, or you can have her step off to the side (though feel free to keep the wall as a compositional element).
19. Facing the camera (full body)
Here’s another pose with many variations.
First, ask your model to face the camera. Then ask her to curve her body in an S shape, twist her hips, and raise her arms.
Ask her to experiment with different head positions (and you might experiment with leg positions, as well).
20. Angled body and flowing sheets
Sheets and clothing work great as props. For this glamour photography pose, ask your model to angle their body toward the camera. Have her wrap a sheet around her stomach then throw it to the side.
(Especially marvelous shots can be made in windy weather!)
21. Facing away with a sheet
I’ve already suggested several poses with your model’s back to the camera.
But if you want to create something unique, try taking your model to an open field – such as a farm field, a wildflower meadow, or even a desert landscape.
I highly recommend you bring a sheet or piece of clothing; your model can wrap it around her legs for plenty of interesting shots.
Glamour photography poses: final words
Hopefully, you now have plenty of glamour and nude poses to try during your next photoshoot!
But I’d like to emphasize:
Each of these initial sample poses is only a starting point. Every pose on this list has endless variations. You can ask your model to try different facial expressions, head turns, hand and leg placements, and body turns. A slight modification can make for a completely different (and potentially better!) pose.
Also, always remember to shoot from different angles (up and down, right and left). Try changing your distance from the subject. Try different crops and compositions.
Because in the end, posing is trial and error. The more variations you shoot, the better your results!
Also, if you enjoyed this article, check out our ebook, Portraits: Striking the Pose, which shares tips, tricks, and secrets for beautiful portrait poses.
Kaspars Grinvalds is a photographer working and living in Riga, Latvia. He is the author of Posing App, where you can find even more poses and posing ideas!
The post Glamour Posing Guide: 21 Sample Poses to Get You Started appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.
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Notes on the Paul Buff Link 800ws Flash
The Paul C. Buff Link monobloc studio strobe ($ 895.95) delivers 800ws of portable power, and deserves consideration from anyone in the United States who is considering a big gun for use on location.
Please note: This is not a full review.
There have been several thorough examples already published — most notably this one by Mike McGee. There are many others, from the usual suspects, a Google search away.
Rather, this is a quick write-up of some first-hand impressions, thoughts and features I have not seen much mention of elsewhere.
Read more »
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The Weekly Photography Challenge – High Noon
The post The Weekly Photography Challenge – High Noon appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.
High Noon, when the sun is its most harsh, when things tend to get very bright, can be a tough time to make a photograph – that’s why, this week, we’re challenging you to share your best ‘high noon’ photograph in this week’s weekly challenge.
Remember to tag your photographs #dPSHighNoon
Generally most photographers will try to avoid high-noon, or the middle of the day, so that they don’t need to struggle with the harsh light (and in some cases, the heat, though from a cold Melbourne afternoon I say ‘bring the heat!’) but when you have a small window in which to shoot and you have to go and make photos, all you can do is the best you can do!
Here are a couple of little helpers on the blog to help you out;
“Bright ideas for shooting in the midday sun”
“3 Quick tips for photographing in harsh midday sun”
Photo by Michael Kroul on Unsplash
Your photograph can be of anything, a portrait, a wildlife scene, a landscape, but it must be taken in the middle of the day – we’re not checkin’ exif because we trust you! Ha.
Remember to tag your photographs #dPSHighNoon
But how do I upload my photos?
Upload your photo into the comments field below this post (look for the little camera icon in the Disqus comments section below this post) and they’ll get embedded for us all to see. Or, if you’d prefer, upload them to your favourite photo-sharing site and leave the link to them.
The post The Weekly Photography Challenge – High Noon appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.
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Panasonic Unveils the GH5 II, With Wireless Live Streaming and Improved IBIS
The post Panasonic Unveils the GH5 II, With Wireless Live Streaming and Improved IBIS appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.
Panasonic has announced its latest Micro Four Thirds mirrorless camera: The Lumix GH5 II, an update to the much-loved GH5, which debuted back in 2017.
While the GH5 II retains many of the capabilities that made the GH5 such a praiseworthy camera, it also features several upgrades – particularly to its videography and streaming options, though also for action photography, low-light photography, and more.
Let’s take a closer look.
Panasonic Lumix GH5 II: What does it offer?
The Lumix GH5 II is a Micro Four Thirds camera combining significant photography and videography capabilities; as such, it should appeal to both enthusiast and professional hybrid shooters, though it can certainly perform well as a standalone photography or videography option.
Here are the key features that are identical (or nearly identical) to those on the GH5:
- The GH5 II packs the same build as the GH5, including solid construction and weather resistance. The GH5 II is perfect for the outdoor photographer or videographer, though heavier than hobbyist alternatives.
- The sensor is the 20 MP MFT technology used in the GH5, but Panasonic has added a new anti-reflective coating for better backlit shooting.
- Like the GH5, the GH5 II features dual SD card slots, useful for professionals who require redundancy in their work.
- 12 frames-per-second continuous shooting (in AF-S) and 9 frames-per-second continuous shooting (in AF-C) promise decent action performance.
- The electronic viewfinder remains a respectable 3.68M dots.
And here’s what you get from the GH5 II over the GH5:
- 10-bit 4:2:0 DCI 4K/60p; pre-installed V-Log L for improved dynamic range; simultaneous external 10-bit 4:2:2 4K and internal 10-bit 4:2:0 4K recording.
- The GH5 II supports wireless live streaming. As Panasonic explains, with the GH5 II, “high-quality live streaming is possible with minimum equipment – only the camera and a smartphone are required…in either an indoor or outdoor environment.”
- Improved autofocus performance. Panasonic claims that the GH5 II “features high-speed and high-precision AF” that “detects eyes and faces at a 2x faster recognition-cycle speed than the GH5.” The camera also packs “enhanced AF-C, which…enables users to keep tracking small or fast-moving subjects.”
- An improved buffer for action photography (108+ RAWs, 999+ JPEGs).
- 6.5 stops of in-body image stabilization versus the 5 stops of IBIS on the GH5 – a small but useful upgrade for low-light photography (and handheld videography).
- (Slightly) increased resolution on the fully articulating touchscreen, though with a subtle decrease in size.
On the whole, upgrades for photographers are relatively minor. If you’re primarily a stills shooter, these enhancements probably won’t justify shelling out for the GH5 II over the GH5 (and you may be better off considering a different Panasonic camera).
But for hybrid shooters and videographers requiring top-notch recording and/or streaming capabilities, the GH5 II is certainly an appealing package.
Panasonic Lumix GH5 II: Price and release date
You can preorder the Panasonic Lumix GH5 II for a reasonable $ 1699 USD ($ 2299 when bundled with the Leica 12-60mm f/2.8-4 lens). Orders will begin shipping in late June.
So if the GH5 II’s new features appeal to you, I highly recommend you check it out (though you should also keep an eye out for news regarding the just-announced Lumix GH6).
Now over to you:
What do you think of the Panasonic Lumix GH5 II? Are you disappointed by the lack of upgrades? Or pleased by what the GH5 II does include? Would you consider buying it? Share your thoughts in the comments below!
The post Panasonic Unveils the GH5 II, With Wireless Live Streaming and Improved IBIS appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.
