Blog

  • Your Camera Strap: Are you Using it Wrong?

    The post Your Camera Strap: Are you Using it Wrong? appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.

    In this video by Phil Steele, he shows you the right way to use your camera strap, and you may just find a few little surprises!

    ?

    How to attach the strap to your camera

    If you are removing the strap from your camera, take a picture of the attachments, so you know exactly how to put it back together.

    Also, in case you didn’t know, that little rubber rectangle piece on your camera strap (if you have one), is actually an eyepiece cover for when you do long exposure photography. It prevents light leaks coming through the eyepiece!

    Fixing loose ends

    Do the end pieces of the strap flapping around annoy you? If so, there is a way to fix that.

    If your strap has little slide plastic collars on it, make sure it is towards the end of the strap, below the buckle. Then start by feeding the strap from the outside in through the attachment on the camera.

    Then feed the end back through the plastic collar and pull it all the way through.

    Now, feed the loose end through the buckle. However, instead of feeding it through the bottom first, feed it through the top first followed by the bottom. That way the leftover strap is hidden away rather than flapping around loose.

    Using your strap for better photos

    1. Use the strap as a stabilizer to reduce camera shake – Place your elbows into your body then move your camera away from your body, pulling the strap tight. This tension helps stabilize your camera and works well when shooting video too.
    2. Step on the strap when shooting from a low angle to steady the camera.
    3. If you don’t have a tripod, place your camera on a surface and use your strap under the lens to angle it upwards. If you want the camera facing downwards, place the strap under the body of the camera.

    Strap mistakes to avoid

    1. When placing your camera on a table, place the camera on top of the strap as though it is sitting in a little nest. That way, no one can accidentally pull your camera off the table by knocking the strap. Also, if someone spills water on the table, your camera is slightly elevated so that it won’t get wet.
    2. When using your camera on a tripod, the strap can cause motion blur on your images if there is any wind. Hold the strap while taking photos, or remove it altogether when on a tripod. Another solution is to get a strap that easily clips on and off.

    Comfortable straps

    Consider buying a more comfortable strap. Some have extra padding and stretch (Neoprene) and can be a little wider. They sit more comfortably around your neck and can ease the pressure when carrying a heavier rig.

    Phil’s favorite strap for event photography

    Phil uses a Sling Strap (black rapid) for event photography. It easily hangs over your shoulder and allows you to have free hands when you aren’t shooting. The camera easily slides up and down the strap when you need to use it.

    One caution when using the sling strap, however, is the way it mounts to your camera. It screws into the tripod hole on the bottom of your camera. That can be a point of failure because if your screw comes loose, your camera can fall to the ground.

    There are two things you can do to guard against that. First, when initially attaching it, wet the little rubber washer that goes between the mounting hardware and your camera. That seems to help. Secondly, periodically check the screw tightness, and tighten if need be.

    Have you ever had a mishap with your camera strap? Share with us in the comments below.

     

    You may also find the following helpful:

    • Review: Peak Design Anchor Links System for Camera Straps
    • Overview and Field Test of HoldFast Gear’s Money Maker Leather Camera Strap
    • Review of the Nitz Custom Handmade Camera Strap
    • Custom SLR Dual Camera Strap – Product Review

    The post Your Camera Strap: Are you Using it Wrong? appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.


    Digital Photography School

  • HD Pentax-D FA* 50mm F1.4 SDM AW review

    $ (document).ready(function() { SampleGalleryStripV2({“galleryId”:”6642990603″,”isMobile”:false}) })

    Sample photoSample photoSample photoSample photoSample photo
    Silver Award

    89%
    Overall score

    Ricoh Imaging now offers two full-frame Pentax DSLRs, the K-1 and largely similar K-1 II, so the need for modern, technologically up-to-date lenses that can do these cameras justice is clear.

    K-1 and K-1 II users have the choice of decades’ worth of full-frame-friendly glass, of course, but the HD PENTAX-D FA* 50mm F1.4 SDM AW is the newest member of the company’s premium Star (*) range. This particular lens is promised as the first in a new generation of Star optics, which claim to combine centre-to-corner sharpness at even wide apertures, high light transmission and general all-round optical excellence, all with a rugged design and high dependability.

    While intended for users of full-frame cameras, the D FA* 50mm F1.4 SDM AW will also happily partner with APS-C models like the KP and K-70. This results in an effective focal length closer to 76.5mm, which brings it a little closer to classic mild-telephoto focal lengths associated with portraiture. Incidentally, the line will shortly welcome another portrait-friendly Star lens, the D FA* 85mm F1.4, the development of which was announced earlier this year.

    All pictures by Matt Golowczynski unless otherwise noted.

    Key specifications

    • Focal length: 50mm (76.5mm on APS-C bodies)
    • Aperture range: F1.4-16 (In 1/3EV stops)
    • Filter thread: 72mm
    • Close focus: 0.4m (1.3ft)
    • Maximum magnification: 0.18x
    • Diaphragm blades: 9
    • Hood: PH-RBB72 (provided)
    • Length / Diameter: approx. 80 x 106mm (3.1 x 4.2in)
    • Weight: approx. 910g (32.1oz)
    • Optical construction: 15 elements in 9 groups

    The optical makeup of the HD PENTAX-D FA* 50mm F1.4 SDM AW comprises fifteen elements in total, with three anomalous dispersion elements spread throughout the array and a single aspherical element at the rear. As is somewhat standard practice among premium lenses of this sort, the lens combines two coatings: a nanotechnology-based Aero Bright Coating II and a more standard multi-layer HD coating, and the pair work to boost light transmission and minimize reflections that could introduce aberrations and/or affect contrast. Also helping with flare control is the PH-RBB72 lens hood that’s supplied as standard.

    The lens’s KAF4 mount adds an extra contact to the KAF3 mount to support electromagnetic diaphragm control from the body. Users of every DSLR released since (and including) the K-50 will benefit from this, although unless you shoot with a K-1 Mark II, K-P or K-70 you’ll need to upgrade your camera’s firmware first. With no physical aperture ring, you’re limited to using the lens at its widest aperture should you mount it on an older body.

    Protection against dirt and moisture incursion is provided by eight separate seals, with a red gasket around the metal lens mount to keep nasties out of the camera.

    The current standard KAF4 mount drops the aperture lever from the KAF3 mount and adds an extra contact for electromagnetic diaphragm control.

    Pentax lenses that claim some sort of dust and moisture protection are sorted into two categories: Weather-Resistant (WR) and the more stringent All-Weather Resistant (AW). This lens sits in the latter camp. The lens is further protected by a flourine-based Super Protect coating on the front element that not only dissuades water, grease and dust from adhering to it, but makes it easier to clean off when it does.

    Nine blades form the diaphragm inside the lens, and these are said to keep defocused points of light round from the maximum aperture until F2.8. Elsewhere, the minimum focusing distance of 0.4m is better than average for a lens of this sort, and when used this close to the subject magnification ends up at 0.18x. The lens also has a 72mm thread at its front for conventional screw-mounted filters.

    The hood for the 50mm F1.4 can be reverse-mounted on the lens, and doesn’t get too much in the way unless you’re using the manual focusing ring.

    A small window in the lens hood can be removed in order to rotate an ND or polarizing filter.

    There’s no image stabilization inside the lens as Pentax users can take advantage of this through the sensor-based Shake Reduction system inside their cameras. Combined with that wide aperture, this obviously makes the lens a good candidate for demanding low-light environments.

    Is this the same lens as the Tokina Opera 50mm F1.4? Well, the optical construction appears identical, and the two lenses are pretty much the same size and weight, so at the very least it’s obvious that they’re clearly closely-related. However, the bare specs don’t account for the possibility of some mysterious ‘special sauce’ that Ricoh might have reserved for the Pentax-branded version. Was this lens developed with the involvement of Tokina? Yes, almost certainly. Does it matter? Probably not – and anyway, the slightly cheaper Tokina-branded version isn’t available in PK mount, so if you’re shopping for a prime for your K-1 II, the question is academic.

    Design and handling

    At least in terms of its functionality, this is a fairly straightforward prime lens, so its external design is simple. The barrel is essentially furnished with only two controls: a switch that alternates between autofocus and manual focus, and a manual focusing ring. A focus distance window gives its readings in feet and meters.

    The AF/MF switch moves very easily and without any stiffness, although this also means it’s somewhat prone to be accidentally knocked out of position. I experienced this frequently when carrying the camera around using a BlackRapid strap, although this is hardly a fault of the lens, rather something to bear in mind if you prefer to carry your camera around in the same way. If you prefer to have the camera strapped around your neck or you’re using it on a tripod, this probably won’t be an issue.

    The lens has just a single switch, which is used to toggle between automatic and manual focus.

    The focusing ring at the front of the lens is about an inch deep, and it’s finished with a coarse, square dimpled pattern, which makes it very tactile, if not quite as comfortable as the ribbed design common to many other lenses. It’s well damped and works through its focusing range in roughly a third of a rotation. This might not sound like much, but its 80mm diameter means it still travels a fair distance between its extremes.

    Fifteen elements is quite a lot for a 50mm F1.4 lens, and that goes some way to explaining its 910g weight. To put it into perspective, that’s slightly heavier than Canon’s EF 50mm F1.4 USM and EF 50mm F1.2L USM lenses combined. As the K-1 and K-1 II bodies each weigh just 100g more, either will do well to support this, but a combination with either body still ends up weighing just under 2kg (a little over four pounds), which is significant. Partly because of the lens’s 106mm length, however, you can support the whole package quite easily, even if you have larger hands.

    The plastic lens hood has a deep petal-shaped design and a small removable tab that slides out for easy filter rotation. It can also be reverse-mounted when not required, and, despite its depth, it doesn’t get in the way until or unless you need to use the manual focusing ring.

    Autofocus

    The lens employs a newly developed ring-type SDM (Supersonic Direct-drive Motor) to handle autofocus actuation. Ricoh states that this generates up to 7.5x more torque than the SDM systems inside previous lenses, and it’s responsible for driving the rear lens group when focusing.

    The focusing system is internal, which means that the overall barrel length doesn’t change in length at any time during operation. The focus ring supports a ‘Quick Shift’ focus system that allows you to adjust focus manually once autofocus has been achieved, without you needing to constantly switch between autofocus and manual focus. You can also call upon focus peaking when using live view, regardless of whether you’re using automatic or manual focus.

    This is a fairly weighty lens, with a lot of glass inside it. As such, autofocus performance isn’t blazingly fast but it’s certainly fast enough that photographers using it to shoot static subjects shouldn’t find much to complain about. In good light, on a K1 II focus is swift and smooth throughout its range. It’s relatively quiet, too, although not quite as discreet as some other modern optics.

    The wide, nicely-damped focus ring offers a very positive experience for manual focus and can also be used for focus fine-tuning in AF-S mode.

    When the lens does have to hunt – whether that’s in darker conditions, against low-contrast-subjects or somewhere else – it typically works back and forth through its focusing range in around a second or so, so if it can’t find focus it doesn’t hang around for long before letting you know. The only time I found this to be an issue was when capturing portraits close to the minimum focusing distance of the lens, where you might miss a crucial moment.

    It’s also possible to focus during video recording using contrast-detect AF. This happens very smoothly and discreetly, with a slight clicking as the lens initially attempts to focus, but with no sound as the focusing groups actually moves. Aperture stop-down behavior changes in video mode, drifting smoothly between positions for smoother exposure changes when the lens is stopped down or opened up.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Sony a7 lll sales beat combined efforts of Canon and Nikon in Japan

    Business information service BCN has released its latest data that shows Sony is so far ahead of the competition in Japan that in April its a7 lll sold more than all the other top five full-frame mirrorless camera bodies combined. The growth of Sony a7 lll sales coincided with a dramatic drop in sales of the Canon EOS RP and only low volume sales for the EOS R and Nikon’s Z6. The Nikon Z7 doesn’t feature in the chart of the top five full frame mirrorless models, as the a7 ll takes the 5th spot.

    The data shows the EOS RP performing well in the middle of March, but it declined quite quickly thereafter.

    In some senses the results aren’t that surprising as Sony has a much more established user base and a much wider native lens selection than either Canon or Nikon for full frame mirrorless models; not to mention both Canon and Nikon are serving early adopters in this market. What might seem surprising though is that the a7 lll is quite a bit more expensive than the EOS RP – proving that perhaps the market isn’t as price-sensitive as many expect.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Ricoh GR III sample gallery updated

    $ (document).ready(function() { SampleGalleryV2({“containerId”:”embeddedSampleGallery_7380089310″,”galleryId”:”7380089310″,”isEmbeddedWidget”:true,”selectedImageIndex”:0,”isMobile”:false}) });

    We’ve already found plenty to like about the Ricoh GR III, and as we’ve been working through our full review of the camera we’ve added more images to our existing sample gallery. While we put the final touches on the review take a look through what we’ve been shooting with the GR III in the past couple of weeks.

    See our updated Ricoh GR III sample gallery

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • How to Take Great Photos with Your iPhone

    The post How to Take Great Photos with Your iPhone appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sandra Roussy.

    Camera phones have certainly come a long way. A few years ago it was impossible to try to achieve good photos with the camera that came with your smartphone. The quality and resolution were so low that we didn’t even think about post-processing and posting our photos.

    The iPhone has had steady updates with new features added over the years including constant improvements to the camera quality. When the iPhone 8Plus came onto the market, photographers were finally ready to take photos that they could be proud of editing and posting. Many professional photographers are now using their smartphone cameras to snap photos during their travels or even on assignments.

    Of course, the iPhone is limited and can’t provide all the creative features that a DSLR with interchangeable lenses can. But some days, carrying bulky camera gear is impossible, so the iPhone provides a great alternative.

    Learn how to use your iPhone to its full potential, and you too will be taking great photos with your camera phone! We’ll take a look at the iPhone 8plus and newer models in this article because they have some great new photo features like Portrait Mode.

    Super helpful tip: Use the slide-left feature from your lock screen to get quick access to your camera.

    Learn the settings

    Set to highest quality

    Your iPhone camera can offer some high-quality photos and videos. If you intend to store hundreds of photos on your phone without downloading or transferring them into a cloud-based platform, then you may want to shoot in low resolution, so your phone doesn’t get full.

    When you do want to shoot something important and want to edit the photos afterward, it’s best to shoot in the highest quality possible.

    Set your focus point

    The iPhone has a feature that you can use to set your exact focus point, and it’s quite important to use it to achieve tack sharp images.

    • Compose your shot
    • Tap your screen where you want the focus to be.
    • Slide the exposure up or down (The little yellow sun icon).
    • Press and hold to lock the focus point and recompose your photo if you wish (AE/AF LOCK).
    • Take your photo.

    About HDR

    HDR means High Dynamic Range and what it does is help provide evenly exposed images. The camera takes 3 shots when you take a photo and stacks them to provide a perfectly exposed image with all components having details in both the highlights and shadows.

    Go to your camera setting and toggle off Auto HDR and Keep Normal Photo toggled on. While shooting you will see the HDR icon at the top. If there is a line through it, simply tap it to activate.

    Helpful Tip: Your iPhone gives you the option to preserve your last shoot settings. This is especially useful when you plan to do the same type of photography. If these are not toggled on, the iPhone goes back to its default setting every time.

    Use the grid lines

    Nothing says amateur like a crooked horizon line. One of our pet peeves as photographers is to see a beautiful landscape where the ocean seems to be sliding down the side of the photograph.

    Tilt your head to look at the photo? No.

    Better, apply grid lines on your iPhone so that you can align the horizon line to get a perfectly straight horizon.

    How-to: Go to settings and toggle the Grid option on.

    Composition tips and tricks

    Rule of thirds

    Rule of Thirds is the main composition rule of photography that allows the viewer’s eye to flow easily over a photo. This is a good guideline to follow but it is not always the best composition for every situation.

    Tip: Having the Grid Lines toggled on will help you achieve the rule of thirds better.

    Keep it simple

    Sometimes less is more. When you cram too much info into a photograph, the viewer doesn’t know where to look and may not capture your intent. Keep white space and focus on a single subject. This will bring attention to the subject and give your photo more creative meaning.

    Get down and raise it up

    Shooting from the same perspective and position will most probably create some pretty boring and repetitious photos. Try getting down on the ground and see how the perspective changes. This can sometimes add some drama to your subjects. Also, look up! Look at the contrasts with the sky, buildings, trees, and clouds.

    Move in close

    Sometimes a small detail can take a photograph from good to WOW!

    Observe light, colors, and shadows

    Learning to observe how light affects objects and changes throughout the day is key to improving your photos. Observe how shadows get created and how the light hits particular objects and capture those unique events.

    Look for contrasts of color or a single color pop in a monotone environment.

    Photo modes and special features

    The iPhone comes with photo modes for you to choose from. The best feature to have come out in the last few years is Portrait Mode.

    Portrait Mode

    As of the introduction of the iPhone 8 plus, Portrait Mode has been accessible and has provided some broader creative possibilities. The iPhone Xs and iPhone Xr have the option to adjust the depth of field while shooting in Portrait Mode. Portrait Mode makes great portraits, of course, but can also be used for so much more. Try setting to portrait mode when you want a bokeh effect or a blurry background in your photos.

     

    Square

    This mode is useful if you want to post on Instagram while keeping your composition intact.

     

    Pano

    Shoot some panoramic photos to show a greater angle of a landscape.

    Special features

    Burst Mode: Burst mode is great when you want to capture some action shots. Press and hold the shutter button, and the camera takes a series of photos.

    Live Photo: Live photo is a fun feature that records 3-second videos before and after you have pressed the shutter. When viewing your photo, press and hold the photo to see the effect in action. You can activate or deactivate this feature in your camera mode.

    Loop, Bounce, Long Exposure: Swipe up on your Live Photo to gain access to a few more features that let you loop the live photo effect, bounce it, or create a long exposure.

    Zoom or no zoom – Attachable lens options

    • The newer versions of the iPhone have two lenses that allow you to zoom into your subject without moving in closer. This is practical when photographing wildlife or even when doing portraits.
    • Click on the 1X at the bottom of the camera screen. The zoom will go to 2X. Click your photo. You can pinch your screen and zoom even further, but this can cause shake in your photo and probably create blur.

    Attachable lenses have hit the market and can offer some fun alternatives when shooting. They come in a variety of prices and quality. Macro lenses and fish-eye lenses seem to be the most popular.

    Try photo apps and filters

    Photo editing apps and software are very popular with amateurs and professional photographers alike. Some apps let you add filters to create moods, while others give you access to features that let you edit and fine-tune your iPhone photos.

    Some of these apps even let you get out of the automatic iPhone mode and into manual shooting mode. They let you adjust your shutter speed, ISO, and aperture as you wish.

    Here is a list of some of our favorite apps available for your iPhone.

    Pro Camera

    You can shoot in Manual, Semi-automatic, or Automatic modes with Pro Camera. It contains RAW capture, live histogram, and an anti-shake feature. Pro Camera is the app that allows you to achieve super sharp images with your iPhone.

    Snapseed

    Snapseed is a popular go-to app for every level photographer. It’s one of the most complete free apps offering a variety of functions to edit your photos.

    VSCO

    VSCO is one of those apps, that when downloaded, allows you to shoot from your camera phone with the option of controlling the ISO, white balance, shutter speed, and other customizable camera functions.

    Like a DSLR, you adjust your exposure components before you shoot to get your desired outcome. You can create long exposure photographs and fine-tune your focus points.

    There’s a useful active tilt meter to level your phone to achieve a perfectly straight horizon line.

    Have some fun with your iPhone

    Even if you own an expensive DSLR and shoot in Manual mode, you can still get some great shots with your iPhone. The latest generation iPhones have stepped up the game regarding the cameras, lenses, and shooting options.

    Keep in mind a few helpful tips to achieve beautiful compositions and don’t forget to add some useful photo-editing apps on your iPhone.

    Your iPhone photos will look more professional, and you’ll be proud to post and show them off.

    Feel free to share some with us in the comments section below.

     

    The post How to Take Great Photos with Your iPhone appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sandra Roussy.


    Digital Photography School

  • Mastering Color Series – The Psychology and Evolution of the Color GREEN and its use in Photography

    The post Mastering Color Series – The Psychology and Evolution of the Color GREEN and its use in Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Megan Kennedy.

    Spanish dramatist, poet and writer Pedro Calderón de la Barca once said “green is the prime color of the world, and that from which its loveliness arises”. From the perspective of a well-loved frog however, it’s not so easy being green. On the visible spectrum, green occupies the space between blue and yellow. In color theory, it is a secondary color, made by mixing blue and yellow together. Here, we’ll have a look at the evolution of green and its impact in art from antiquity to the present day.

    The psychology of green

    Green’s strongest psychological associations lie with the natural environment. The word green originates from the Middle English and Old English word grene, which has the same root as the words grass and grow. Many humans respond to nature, and thereby green itself, with a sense of calm and renewal. According to a recent study, exposure to green spaces in childhood can provide significant mental health benefits into adolescence and adulthood. Another study suggests that the “availability and quality of neighborhood green spaces are associated with greater well-being”.

    Green’s association with nature has led to the adoption of green as an emblem for environmental movements. Fresh greenery in spring and the steady growth of plant-life has fostered associations with green and rebirth and determination. In contrast, the green text on early computer systems have cultivated associations between green, modernity and the digital landscape. The movie The Matrix has furthered this association.

    When the United States government began issuing cash in 1861, bills were printed with a green-black ink. This has fostered associations between green and money. Due to it’s reflective nature, neon green is often used for safety equipment, clothing and signage. Because of it’s vibrational quality, neon green also features heavily in psychedelic art.

    A belief held by the ancient Greeks that the overproduction of bile (which is typically a dark green to yellowish brown fluid) was a symptom of jealousy has drawn associations between green, envy and illness. Poeticized by William Drennan as the “Emerald Isle,” Ireland is associated with the color green because of it’s lush green landscapes. In China, green is associated with the east, spring and generative energy. For many Native American peoples, green symbolizes endurance. Green is the sacred color of Islam, representing Muhammad. However, in South America, green can be a symbol of death.

    The evolution of the color green

    Malachite, green earth and verdigris

    While prehistoric artists used a pallet made up of reds, yellows, blacks, browns and whites, greens and blues were noticeably absent from early art. Decorative ceramics made by ancient Mesopotamians depict some of the earliest examples of green in visual arts. However, the method used to produce these greens is unknown.

    Mined in the west Sinai and eastern desert, ancient Egyptians adorned tombs and papyrus with finely ground blue-green malachite pigment. Referring to the afterlife as the Field of Malachite, the ancient Egyptians wore the crushed mineral around the eyes to ward away evil. Moderately lightfast but very sensitive to acids, and varying in tonal consistency, malachite’s use in art continued up until the 1800’s. The Egyptians also used green earth pigments or mixed yellow ochre with blue azurite to form green hues.

    Sourced near Verona in Italy and on the Mediterranean island of Cyprus, the Romans used green earth extensively in decoration. According to the blog Eclectic Light Company, green earth pigments have also been found in paintings from North America and the Indian subcontinent. Although lacking in intensity, green earth has seen use right up to the present day. Perhaps its best known usage however, is in the under-painting of flesh tones during the middle ages.

    The Romans also used verdigris as a source of green pigment. Verdigris occurs naturally when copper, brass or bronze is exposed to air or seawater over time. Deliberately cultivated by soaking copper plates in fermenting wine and collecting the resulting residue, verdigris was the most vibrant green available until the 19th century.

    Scheele’s green

    Invented in 1775 by chemist Carl Wilhelm Scheele, Scheele’s green was the first to contain arsenic in its composition. Although it faded rapidly, Scheele’s green was considered superior to previous paints due to its vibrancy. It was used in a range of applications from food dye to artist’s paints. Needless to say, Scheele’s green was highly toxic and carcinogenic. Both manufactures and consumers became ill or died from exposure to the deadly pigment.

    Cobalt green

    In 1780 Swedish chemist Sven Rinman, developed a process that resulted in a cobalt-green compound of cobalt and zinc. Arthur Herbert Church, a British chemist, published Rinmann’s process in his book, the Chemistry of Paints and Painting where he stated that cobalt green was created by “precipitating with an alkaline carbonate a mixture of the nitrates of cobalt and of zinc, and then strongly heating (after washing) the precipitate formed”.

    “When prepared properly,” Church continued, “cobalt green is a pigment of great beauty and power.” However, despite the opportunity to vary the ratio of zinc to cobalt oxides in production, the pigment was never a pure green, taking on a blueish hue instead. In addition, the high cost and poor tinting strength of cobalt green meant it saw limited use by artists.

    Paris green

    Paris green is also known as emerald green. Becoming commercially available in 1814, Paris green was used as a pigment as well as a rodenticide and insecticide. Offering greater permanence and saturation over Scheele’s green, Paris green proved popular with artists such as Monet, and Van Gogh. Ranging from a pale blue-green to a deep green, Paris green was relativity cheap to manufacture. It was also used as a household paint and in decorative wallpaper. Highly toxic, it was discontinued over the second half of the twentieth century.

    Viridian

    Electing to keep their methodology a secret, Viridian was first produced by chemists Pannetier and Binet in Paris around 1838. It took another 20 years before chemist Guignet patented a process to manufacture Viridian, making the pigment available to artists.

    Viridian takes its name from the Latin word viridis, meaning green. A dark shade of spring green, Viridian sits between green and teal on the color wheel. Viridian’s brilliance, excellent permanence and lack of toxicity meant that it soon eclipsed all other green pigments. Readily adopted by Edvard Munch, Monet and Van Gogh, the rich blue-green hues of viridian remain in use today.

    Green in visual arts

    Green’s presence in art history is a testament to its evocative associations with nature and life. Cultivated by the flooding of the River Nile, ancient Egyptians recognized the greenery of flourishing crops as a symbol of rebirth. Osiris, the ancient Egyptian god of the underworld and rebirth was depicted with a green complexion and the hieroglyph for the color green was represented by the stalk of the papyrus.

    During the middle ages and renaissance, clothing color signaled social rank and occupation. Green was worn by merchants, bankers and gentry. Both the Mona Lisa and the bride in the Arnolfini portrait by Jan van Eyck are depicted in green, an indication of their status.

    Taking advantage of greens refined over the renaissance period, Baroque artists conveyed moments of movement and drama with rich green hues. Dreamy green landscapes populated by the well-to-do defined the rococo art movement, while the green hues in 19th century realism mirrored the bleak reality of middle and lower class society. In contrast, pre-raphaelite artists used green to depict resplendent clothing and foliage.

    Capturing the interplay between light and movement, green took on a new life under the strokes of the impressionist’s brush. Expressionist artists, in their distortions and exaggerations, valued emotion over reality, using green to convey new artistic possibilities. Cubists used green as a tool to alleviate some of the heaviness of their compositions and later, abstract artists like Mark Rothko and Helen Frankenthaler expressed the immersive nature of green through verdant tones on active canvasses.

    Green in contemporary art

    Contemporary examples of green used in art are as varied and unique as green itself.  In 1970 Bruce Nauman erected two walls, placed them 12 inches apart and suspended green lights above the gap. Encouraged to walk through the claustrophobic space, members of the public were bathed in green fluorescence as they shuffled along.

    In 1998 Olafur Eliasson used a sodium salt variation of fluorescein called uranine to color waterways in Germany, Norway, Iceland, Sweden, Japan and the USA a vibrant green. He called his endeavors the Green River Project.

    In 2016 Norwegian artist Per Kristian Nygard transformed an Oslo gallery into an organic work of art. Distributing soil and grass seed over a wooden framework covered with plastic sheets, Per Kristian Nygard cultivated Not Red But Green, a contemplative piece investigating the exchange between architecture and nature.

    Green in photography

    Green’s associations continue to be depicted in both film and digital photographic formats. Australian duo Prue Stent and Honey Long combine photography with performance, installation and sculpture, investigating the relationship between the human body and nature. Stent and Long’s series Bush Babies melds the green of the natural environment with the nakedness of the human body.

    An overreaching theme in Narelle Autio’s photography is the study of human interaction within green spaces. Namia Green’s portraits of black and brown subjects against lush greenery reflects the photographer’s rejection of the narrow representation of black peoples in art. Photographed by Steve McCurry, the famously green eyes of the Afghan Girl (Sharbat Gula) are both haunting and haunted, piercing a viewer’s gaze. Ren Hang (link NSFW), known for his sexually expressive imagery, often relied on green for contrast, context and life.

    Landscape and architectural photographer Andreas Gursky often applies green as a visual pause within his work. Fashion photographer Miles Aldridge uses green as a surreal brush with the surreal. Signalling time, place and atmosphere, macro photographers like Tomas Shahan feature green as an inevitable backdrop for their minuscule natural subjects. And Pep Ventosa’s dynamic works see green as a prevailing presence in her series In the Round, Trees.

    Green has applications on-camera too. In black and white photography, green filters are mainly used for photographing plants, separating green foliage from brightly colored flowers. In landscape photography, green filters lighten organic greens, giving an image a more natural appearance.

    Conclusion

    Despite its late arrival to the artist’s pallet, green’s versatility is reflected in its many connotations. Associated with renewal and rebirth, green has also been linked with the digital landscape, money, jealousy and sickness. From ancient art to contemporary visual culture, green has shaped our comprehension of the environment around us. Portraying immeasurable depth and abundance, green is the color of nature and life.

    Share with us your photos that use green in the comments below.

     

    You may also like:

    • Mastering Color Series – The Psychology and Evolution of the Color RED and its use in Photography
    • Mastering Color Series – The Psychology and Evolution of the Color YELLOW and its use in Photography
    • Mastering Color Series – The Psychology and Evolution of the Color BLUE and its use in Photography

    The post Mastering Color Series – The Psychology and Evolution of the Color GREEN and its use in Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Megan Kennedy.


    Digital Photography School

  • Think Tank Photo’s Stash Master 13L is a modular travel cube for your camera gear

    Think Tank Photo has announced the release of the Stash Master 13L, a travel cube designed to safely store camera equipment in a package that can be used on its own or added to any large backpack to instantly turn it into a camera bag.

    Think Tank Photo specifically designed the Stash Master 13L so it was large enough to fit the ‘holy trinity’ of lenses — a 70-200mm F2.8, a 24-70mm F2.8 and a 16-35mm F2.8 (or equivalents — alongside a gripped camera body. While the internal baffles can be customized, it should be good to go out of the box to fit all three lenses, a camera body and a decent selection of accessories.

    The travel cube is constructed of a 100D rip-stop nylon and features DWR coating to keep moisture away from camera gear. It features YKK RC-Fuse zippers a tuck away front flap with foam panel that can be removed in the event you want to keep the gear more accessible when the cube is stored inside a backpack.

    On both the top and bottom of the camera bag are a pair of carrying straps and the side features webbing loops so a shoulder strap can be attached, making for a modular sling-style bag. Think Tank Photo also notes the bag is a perfect match for its recently-released BackLight Elite 45L backpack, where it can be stored inside for back-panel access.

    Below are a few gear setup examples Think Tank Photo has provided for what can fit inside:

    • One gripped DSLR with lenses attached up to a 70-200mm f/2.8 plus, 2–3 standard zoom lenses and a flash.
    • Two ungripped DSLRs with lenses attached up to a 70–200mm f/2.8 and 1–2 standard zoom lenses.
    • Two gripped mirrorless bodies with lenses attached up to a 70–200mm f/2.8 plus 3–5 additional lenses.

    $ (document).ready(function() { SampleGalleryV2({“containerId”:”embeddedSampleGallery_0692054901″,”galleryId”:”0692054901″,”isEmbeddedWidget”:true,”selectedImageIndex”:0,”isMobile”:false}) });

    The external dimensions of the travel cube are 31cm x 31cm x 19cm (12.2in x 12.2in x 7.5in), its internal dimensions are 30cm x 30cm x 18cm (11.8in x 11.8in x 7.1in) and it weighs just 400g (0.9lbs). The Stash Master 13L is currently listed on Think Tank Photo’s website for $ 59.99, but is labeled as ‘Out of Stock’ at the time of posting this article.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Instagram is officially testing hiding like-counts to put focus on content

    If you’ve ever listened in to a conversation among a bunch of keen Instagram users you’ll have noticed that the discussion tends to circle a lot more around likes and follower numbers than the actual images and content that is being posted.

    It looks like Instagram has identified this focus on stats as a problem and it was recently revealed that the company is considering hiding the like count on images and other content.

    Now a field-test has been launched with users in Canada who won’t be able to see like numbers on the photos of accounts they are following during the next several days. You can still see the likes on your own content, though.

    At its F8 developer conference Instagram parent company Facebook confirmed that it is considering a roll-out to its entire platform. In the affected accounts a message is displayed to make users aware of the test.

    ‘We want your followers to focus on what you share, not how many likes your posts get. During this test, only you will be able to see the total number of likes on your posts.’

    The fact that Instagram likes are an important currency in the social media influencer industry has likely contributed to the obsession with the metric and resulted in people trying to cheat the system and followers being offered for payment.

    Instagram’s attempts to keep those kind of activities under control and put the focus back on content can only be a good thing but if the latest test will be expanded to all users will likely depend on the reaction of the users in Canada.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Adobe test replaces $10/month Photography plan with 1TB $20/month option

    Under a current test, some potential Adobe customers are no longer presented with the company’s $ 9.99 per month individual Photography plan, which includes access to Lightroom, Lightroom Classic, Photoshop, and 20GB of cloud storage. These customers now only have the option to subscribe to the more expensive $ 19.99 per month Photography plan, which includes 1TB, rather than 20GB, of cloud storage.

    A screenshot captured on the Adobe Creative Cloud website on May 2, 2019.

    The change has only appeared for some customers, and as noted by PetaPixel, it’s possible to subscribe to the cheaper plan by directly contacting Adobe’s customer support. At this time, Adobe has only offered confirmation that it is conducting ‘a number of tests’ on its website, which may include displaying certain plan options to only some customers.

    Though Adobe is remaining somewhat quiet about the change, the test hints at a potential future price hike for the Photography plan — namely the elimination of the cheaper, lower-storage option. Customers who want to lock in the lower rate (for now, at least) retain the option of purchasing a one-year Photography plan subscription for $ 120, though they may have to contact support to get that rate.

    As with any test, it’s possible Adobe will scrap the change and keep its existing $ 9.99 per month option, but based on simple math, if even a little over half of customers don’t leave because of the change it’s still worth it for Adobe to bump up the price to $ 20 per month.

    DPReview has contacted Adobe for an official comment. We will update this article when we hear back.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Creative Commons launches improved CC Search tool with access to 300 million images

    Creative Commons has fully launched its new CC Search tool following a beta period, the organization has announced. The tool provides rapid access to a library of more than 300 million images indexed from 19 different collections, including the Cleveland Museum of Art, Metropolitan Museum of Art, DeviantArt, Behance, Flickr, and Thingiverse

    Users can search for images using keywords and filter the results based on the license type and/or the collection from which the content is sourced. The new search tool has a cleaner interface with improved navigation and direct access to attribution code and text.

    The old search portal is still accessible online, but Creative Commons says the new CC Search tool has been given a number of changes that speed up loading times and also improve search phrase relevance. As well, CC Search implements a number of critical bug fixes that aren’t available on the old search portal.

    Starting later this year, Creative Commons plans to start indexing open textbooks, audio, and other CC-licensed materials with CC Search.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)