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  • FeiyuTech’s new 4K Feiyu Pocket camera is a more affordable clone of the DJI Osmo Pocket

    FeiyuTech has unveiled the Feiyu Pocket, a small 4K gimbal camera that bears a very striking resemblance to DJI’s Osmo Pocket.

    Externally, the Feiyu Pocket appears to be a carbon copy of the Osmo Pocket with the only noticeable differences being a lack of an expansion port (Feiyu opted for a single integrated USB-C port on the side) and a slightly larger screen compared to the Osmo Pocket (1.3in compared to 1in, respectively). Aside from the branding and those differences, the two units are essentially identical in both shape and size, complete with a 360-degree rotating head and two buttons on user-facing side for controlling the camera.

    Moving onto the internals and detailed specifications, things do start to differ a bit more. Rather than the F2 lens with an 80-degree field of view on the Osmo Pocket, the Feiyu Pocket features a slightly slower F2.8 120-degree ultrawide lens. The Feiyu Pocket also uses a 1/2.5” CMOS sensor instead of the 2/3” sensor inside of the Osmo Pocket, but both cameras output 4K (3840 x 2160 pixel) video at up to 60 frames per second. The Feiyu Pocket outputs only 8.5MP stills though, compared to the 12MP stills possible with the Osmo Mobile.

    As for stabilization, the Feiyu Pocket uses a similar three-axis gimbal to the Osmo Pocket, but also throws in what FeiyuTech is calling six-axis ‘hybrid image stabilization’ that appears to combine the three-axis optical stabilization as well as another three-axis digital compensation.

    FeiyuTech says the batter is rated for up to 3.5 hours of runtime when capturing 4K video at 30 fps and up to 4.5 hours when shooting 1080p video at 60 fps. the internal battery is charged using the integrated USB-C port and FeiyuTech says a 10W charger will recharge the device from empty in 80 minutes. As for storage, an integrated MicroSD card slot can support cards with up to 512GB of storage.

    The Feiyu Pocket offers multiple shooting modes, including a 360-degree POV all-follow mode, a motion timelapse (hyperlapse) mode, multiple auto-panorama modes, a dedicated beauty mode for selfies and an intelligent sync motion mode that will sync the gimbal with your hand movements. The Feiyu Pocket syncs with FeiyuTech’s Android and iOS app to offer liveview and controls for changing the various settings of the camera.

    Despite being very similar in shape, size and specs, the Feiyu Pocket comes in at $ 249 (Adorama, B&H), a whipping $ 120 cheaper than the DJI Osmo Pocket. Y

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Take Time to Practice These Three Composition Skills Around Your Home

    The post Take Time to Practice These Three Composition Skills Around Your Home appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kevin Landwer-Johan.

    Practice composition skills around your home featured image

    Now is a good time to practice composition skills. With many people having to self-isolate, it means you may not be able to enjoy regular life. This will include being able to get out and photograph the subjects you typically take pictures of.

    Make good use of the time to practice. This is not something photographers do as much as other artists. You can imagine that to play a song on a guitar or the piano, you must first practice it. It’s easy for a photographer to pick up a camera and get a pretty well-exposed photo without the need to practice. This can make you lazy, and not make time to work on aspects of your photography that need improving.

    Take Time to Practice These Three Composition Skills Around Your Home
    © Kevin Landwer-Johan Nikon D800, Lens 105mm, 1/400 sec., f/10, ISO 400

    In this article, I want to encourage you to think outside the subject. Consider taking photos only to work on improving one aspect of your craft – composition.

    Find subject material in your environment. Things you would not normally consider taking pictures of. Aim to make interesting and varied compositions by exploring and experimenting.

    Practice composition skills

    When you practice anything at all, you will get better at it. When was the last time you engaged in improving your composition skills through practice? Have you ever picked up your camera with the sole aim of getting better at using the rule of thirds or any other aspect of composition?

    Focus on using negative space for a day, or a week, and you’ll find you incorporate more of it into your photographs.

    By repeating what you are doing, you can learn a skill so well that you don’t have to consciously think about it. It will take time and practice to reach this level, but it is quite natural. Whatever you set yourself to practice, in time, you will be able to use that skill without having to think much about it. This is one great way to build your intuition.

    Pick two or three composition rules to work on. I’m writing about the rule of thirds, negative space and filling the frame. But you can work on any you like. The key is to not be so concerned about your subject or creating masterpiece photos, it is to practice and learn.

    Consider yourself doing this to be like a musician practicing scales. Their aim is not to go out on stage and play scales, but they know that practicing them will help them play better when they do perform.

    Yellow mango against blur glass for practice composition skills
    © Kevin Landwer-Johan Nikon D800, Lens 105mm, 1/320 sec., f/7.1, ISO 800

    Practice the Rule of Thirds

    Let’s start with the most well-known rule of composition in photography, the rule of thirds. This is one many people know and use. To put into practice composition skills, you need to concentrate on the rule, not the subject so much.

    Don’t worry if you are not producing great photos. This exercise is designed to help you better understand when to use the rule of thirds.

    You might like to use a single subject or various things around you to practice composition skills. For this exercise, I walked around my garden and in my house to create compositions using the rule of thirds.

    Take Time to Practice These Three Composition Skills Around Your Home
    © Kevin Landwer-Johan Nikon D800, Lens 105mm, 1/400 sec., f/10, ISO 400

    Experiment with each subject you photograph. Compose it in different ways, but make sure to have it somewhere on one of the ‘thirds’. Don’t only take the first composition you think of. If you place your subject on the left for your first picture, place it on the right hand third for the second one. Then rotate your camera 90 degrees and place your subject on a lower third intersection.

    Rule of Thirds grid
    The Rule of Thirds grid

    Push yourself to try out compositions you normally wouldn’t. Don’t think about your results as right or wrong. Or even good or bad. The point of practice is to improve, so if you’re taking photos you don’t particularly like, think about them. Why don’t you like them? What can you do to improve?

    Practice using the rule of thirds until you feel you’ve made some good progress with it. Do you have a better understanding of how to use it well?

    Rose one a plain background for practice composition skills
    © Kevin Landwer-Johan Nikon D800, Lens 105mm, 1/400 sec., f/10, ISO 400

    Using negative space to practice composition skills

    Negative space is not a bad thing – at least not when it’s included in compositions intentionally. Negative space is the area of a photograph that is not the main center of attention.

    Often there will be nothing at all in these areas – no shapes, lines, or texture.

    At other times there will be some detail, but it will not draw attention away from the main subject at all.

    Coffee pot in contrast for practice composition skills.
    © Kevin Landwer-Johan Nikon D800, Lens 105mm, 1/320 sec., f/7.1, ISO 800

    During our photography workshops, one of the most common mistakes I see people make is to leave too much empty space above a person’s head. This is not usually well-composed negative space. It’s there because the photographer was not paying enough attention to what surrounded their subject.

    Practice composition skills by creating photos with strong negative space. Use blank areas to help your main subject stand out. Use a blank wall, a shallow depth of field, or a light subject with a dark background.

    There are many ways you can include negative space positively in your pictures.

    Again, don’t aim to make masterpieces. Making ‘mistakes’ is healthy when you are practicing.

    Experiment and try out various compositions, both horizontal and vertical. Leave space on the left, right, below and above the same subject. Study them together on your computer. Which one do you like the most?

    Padlock on a grill
    © Kevin Landwer-Johan Nikon D800, Lens 105mm, 1/200 sec., f/4.5, ISO 800

    Aim to fill the frame

    Filling the frame is something I aim to do every time I take a photo. Sometimes this can mean much of my frame is filled with negative space. So long as it’s intentional and adds to the photo, that’s fine.

    To fill the frame well it’s as much about what you leave out as to what you include. Most important is to be aware of what’s within the four edges of your composition and make sure that it’s relevant to the photo you’re taking.

    Sometimes filling the frame can mean coming in ultra-close to your subject so you don’t include all of it. Other times you may choose to move back or zoom out to include some of the surroundings because they are relevant.

    Always look around the edges of your frame. What’s in the corners? Are the background elements supporting your main subject? If not, move it, move yourself, or use another technique to eliminate the unwanted element.

    Moving even a little can alter the perspective of how elements within your frame relate to each other. As an example of this, I photographed the same objects on my table. The plastic bottle behind my main setting is distracting.

    To eliminate it from my composition, I moved lower and to the right a little. In this situation, I could have also moved the bottle.

    coffee set up for practicing composition skills
    © Kevin Landwer-Johan Nikon D800, Lens 105mm, 1/80 sec., f/5, ISO 800
    coffee set up
    © Kevin Landwer-Johan Nikon D800, Lens 105mm, 1/80 sec., f/5, ISO 800

    Conclusion

    Taking time to practice composition skills may sound a bit boring – just as someone learning the piano might get bored practicing scales.

    Try it and see. You may find you enjoy it after a while. Like anything, it takes time for the practice to pay off, so don’t give up easily.

    Do you have any other tips you’d like to add? Please share them with us in the comments.

    The post Take Time to Practice These Three Composition Skills Around Your Home appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kevin Landwer-Johan.


    Digital Photography School

  • Hasselblad updates its desktop, mobile Phocus image processing apps

    Hasselblad has released an update to its Phocus image processing applications for both desktop and mobile devices. Phocus 3.5 for desktop brings a number of new and improved features, while the Phocus Mobile 2 update is more incremental with only a few small changes.

    Phocus 3.5

    Phocus version 3.5 brings a number of new tools and features, including. Specifically, Hasselblad has added a new defringe tool for removing green and purple fringes. The tool will automatically detect and correct for fringing, but also offers manual controls for more precise edits. The brightness and contrast adjustments have also been updated with ‘enhanced algorithms’ that should create more precise tonal adjustments than previous versions.

    Hasselblad has also added a new ‘Luma Mode’ to the curves tool for controlling the luminosity of an image with less impact on the colors of an image compared to using the RGB curve mode. Finally, to smooth things out, Hasselblad has increased GPU usage within Phocus 3.5, which should help increase performance, specifically when viewing and exporting high-resolution images. Hasselblad notes the ‘Extended GPU usage option’ must be active within the settings/preferences in order to get the boost from your computer’s GPU.

    Phocus Mobile 2 version 1.0.1

    Phocus Mobile 2 version 1.0.1 makes only a few changes. In addition to general performance improvements, Hasselblad has also added lens correction support for its XCD 45P and added the ability to zoom and scroll around images immediately after they’re loaded into the viewer within the app.

    Phocus Mobile 2 is available on iOS and iPadOS. Hasselblad has an overview video walking through the core functionality of the app if you want to familiarize yourself with the app.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Fujifilm X-A7 review

    Introduction

    The Fujifilm X-A7 is an entry-level APS-C camera with a 24-megapixel sensor, a fully-articulating 2.76M dot 3.5” touchscreen, a hybrid autofocus system with nearly 100 percent coverage, and Bluetooth and Wi-Fi connectivity inside a lightweight and compact body that comes in a variety of colors. It replaces the X-A5 and although the camera bodies may look very similar, the X-A7 features some substantial upgrades on the inside and out.

    Key specifications

    • 24 Megapixel APS-C CMOS sensor
    • Fully-articulating 2.76M dot 3.5” touchscreen
    • 4K/30p video capture, uncropped with 10 minute time limit
    • Mic input, but no headphone jack
    • Hybrid autofocus system with 425 autofocus points, 8.5 times the phase detection points as the X-A5
    • Can shoot bursts at 6 fps with continuous autofocus
    • Bluetooth and Wi-Fi for image transfer
    • Rated at 270 shots per charge
    • Can be charged via USB

    What is it?

    If we look at the X-A7 compared against its immediate peers, you can see its specification is competitive with similarly priced cameras. The Sony offers a viewfinder and simpler/more powerful autofocus for around $ 150 more. If it’s the viewfinder you need, Fujifilm’s own X-T200 adds one to an otherwise similar spec at a $ 100 premium over the X-A7.

    Fujifilm X-A7 Canon EOS M200 Olympus PEN E-PL10 Sony a6100
    List price $ 699 with 15-45mm $ 599 with 15-45mm $ 699 with 14-42mm $ 850 with 16-50mm
    Pixel count 24MP 24MP 16MP 24MP
    Sensor size APS-C
    (369 sq mm)
    APS-C
    (332 sq mm)
    Four Thirds
    (225 sq mm)
    APS-C
    (367 sq mm)
    Autofocus system Phase detection Dual Pixel Contrast detection Phase detection
    Image stabilization In-lens only In-lens only In-body stabilization In-lens only
    Video Full-width 4K up to 30p Full-width 4K up to 24p Full-width 4K up to 30p

    Up to 30p
    Full-width at 24p

    Mic/
    Headphone?
    Yes/No No/No No/No Yes/No
    Viewfinder No No No Yes
    Rear screen 2.76M dots
    3.5″
    1.04M dots
    3.0″
    1.04M dots
    3.0″
    0.92M dots
    3.0″
    Battery life 270 315 350 420
    Weight 320g 299g 380g 396g

    This entry-level APS-C camera is a low-priced option with a 24 Megapixel sensor and a pretty impressive hybrid autofocus system. It has a large fully-articulating touchscreen interface for beginners that is bright and 1/2 inch larger than the screens found on other cameras in this class. It’s much closer to the look and feel you’d get from a modern smartphone.

    Without an EVF, the X-A7’s touchscreen becomes extra important because it doubles as the camera’s viewfinder. The body also features twin command dials on the top plate and an 8-way joystick on the back right side of the camera if you prefer to navigate menus and settings the old fashioned way.

    The X-A7’s large, high resolution touchscreen is the primary way for interacting with the camera but, unusually for this class of camera, there are twin control dials and a joystick for more direct control.

    There’s a pop-up flash that does a decent job in low-light situations and the ability to attach an external flash via hot shoe. The camera features a mic input, a USB-C port for charging, and an HDMI port. But, like its peers, there’s no way to connect headphones to monitor audio.

    Out-of-camera JPEG
    Fujinon XC15-45mm F3.5-5.6 OIS PZ @ 45mm | ISO 3200 | 1/1000 sec | F5.6
    Photo: Jeanette D. Moses

    The body is made of plastic, but the control dials have the same tactile feel as higher-end Fujifilm bodies. Although the X-A7 is certainly a budget camera, it doesn’t feel overly cheap.

    We’ve spent the last month using the X-A7 with the Fujinon XC15-45mm F3.5-5.6 OIS PZ lens and the XF 23mm F2 R WR lens. The XF 23mm is a mid-priced fixed focal length lens and its fairly bright maximum aperture lets you exploit more of the camera’s capabilities.

    What’s new?

    Out-of-camera JPEG
    Fujinon XC15-45mm F3.5-5.6 OIS PZ @ 15mm | IS0 3200 | 1/40 sec | f/3.5
    Photo: Jeanette D. Moses

    The Fujifilm X-A7 got a major design overhaul on the inside and out, but the 16:9 aspect ratio fully-articulating touchscreen display is the most obvious change to the camera. This is the first entry-level Fujifilm ILC to feature a fully-articulating screen, which is often favored by videographers and makes it easier to snap selfies. At 2.76m dots, that large screen is substantially higher resolution than its competitors.

    The 24 Megapixel sensor is new, too. According to Fujifilm, its copper wiring reduces digital noise and is the reason that the camera is capable of shooting uncropped 4K/30p video. The X-A7 features 425 autofocus points spread out across the frame. The algorithms for face and eye detection have been improved and, while not class-leading, the AF is significantly faster and more reliable than previous X-A cameras.

    The dials on the camera’s top plate also see an overhaul. The camera now features front control and rear control dials flat to the top of the camera, for easy thumb and forefinger control. The four-way control found on the X-A5 has been replaced with a smaller 8-way joystick to make room for the larger LCD screen.

    The fully articulating rear screen has the advantage that it can be turned-in for protection. Note also the easily accessible twin control dials on the camera’s top plate: something usually reserved for more expensive cameras.

    The battery is the same NP-W126S version found in the X-A5, but only has a CIPA rating of 270 shots per charge – a substantial drop from the 440 rating of the X-A5. The X-A7 can achieve 440 shots in an economy mode that darkens and slows the image preview after a few seconds, so you can get the long-lasting but less pleasant X-A5 experience if you wish.

    Either way, if you are planning to be shooting stills for a full day you will definitely need to bring a spare battery along. If you are taking advantage of the camera’s 4K capabilities expect that battery to drain even faster. You can at least charge the camera over USB, though, so there’s also the option to top the camera up using an external battery pack while traveling.

    The X-A7 has a built-in flash. It’s not especially powerful but can make for a good fill-flash: helping to balance out a nearby, backlit subject.

    The new 4K/30p video mode is smooth and good looking. A new feature called Countdown Video mode records footage in 15, 30 or 60 second durations, making it easy to get something shot and uploaded to social media. Unfortunately there isn’t a way to transfer those video clips directly from the camera to your phone so you will still need a laptop for social sharing.

    What stands out about the camera?

    The camera’s redesigned articulating touchscreen is one of its biggest strengths. A 20MP 16:9 (widescreen) ratio is default and if you want to take advantage of the full width of the screen you’ll want to shoot your stills at that size. You still have the option to use the full 24MP 3:2 region of the sensor if you prefer.

    Like most modern ILCs, we found the image quality to be extremely high. The pictures it produces generally look very good with color response being a particular strong point: even in the pale light of March in New York, the X-A7 produced attractive, vibrant images. Detail capture levels are high and well-judged sharpening and noise reduction make the most of this.

    In general you can leave the camera to do its own thing, with white balance generally giving a fairly natural-looking result without obliterating all the ‘atmosphere’ of the scene. Our only real concern was that Face Detection mode prioritizes the exposure of faces rather heavily. It means the people you’re photographing look good but you’ll need to stop to think about where the sun is, or which DR mode you’re in, if you don’t want to risk over-exposing the background.

    Click here to see how the Fujifilm X-A7 compares in our studio test scene

    The touch interface is the quickest way to access and change settings while shooting and is incredibly responsive. It takes just two swipes to access settings like focus mode, the Q menu, white balance, and film simulation modes. When selecting a film simulation mode, the camera offers a side-by-side comparison of what the film simulation will look like before you commit to making a change. A slider in the middle of the screen lets you move the simulation back and forth over your frame.

    It’s a handy feature that we never asked for, but found to be particularly useful when shooting with the X-A7. The menu system on the back of the camera is well-organized and responsive as well.

    The camera’s simplified user interface is very visual in its representation. When you change Film Simulation mode the camera lets you preview the effect it will have.

    During our time with the X-A7 we found the face and eye detection to be responsive with human and animal subjects. Although it’s typically easier to use these features with a viewfinder, the screen on the X-A7 is large enough and bright enough that it was easy to tell when the camera had detected a face or an eye in the frame. The touch-to-focus feature on the X-A7 is also speedy and accurate.

    Skin-softening, depth of field effects, exposure compensation and a feature called Bright Mode that tries to stop highlights and shadows getting overwhelmed, can all be accessed through the touchscreen and give images quick in-camera enhancements that would usually be found on a smartphone.

    Even at full intensity the skin softening has a subtle and realistic look.

    We have slightly mixed feeling about the Fujinon XC 15-45mm F3.5-5.6 OIS PZ that often comes bundled with the X-A7. We find the zoom control to be a bit too sensitive – even with the slightest touch of the zoom ring the lens tends to zoom to its full 45mm or back to its widest 15mm view. This makes it difficult to precisely frame an image using focal lengths in the middle of the spectrum. We really appreciate the focal length coverage, though: it’s appreciably wider than you usually get in this type of camera. The results are impressively sharp, too.

    Using the X-A7 with the XF 23mm F2 R WR lens is generally a more engaging, pleasant and tactile experience. We especially liked the dedicated aperture ring that it offers, which the XC lens lacks.

    The X-A7 has a USB-C port that can be used for off-loading movies or battery charging. Unlike the slightly more expensive X-T200, it can’t be used with an adapter to connect headphones.

    The camera features both Wi-Fi and Bluetooth and transferring images through the Fujifilm Camera Remote app was a breeze on iOS. As this is a camera aimed at entry-level users, the ability to shoot and quickly share is very important.

    One of our favorite aspects of the X-A7 is how it handles color. The film simulation modes inside the camera make it easy to capture cinematic-looking stills and video, while settings like skin softening and depth of field control make it easy to shoot and share without ever having to drop the files into an editing program.

    Conclusion

    Our early impressions of the X-A7 were overwhelmingly positive and now that we’ve spent time shooting with a production model of the camera we are happy to say that this is in fact the best entry-level mirrorless ILC that Fujifilm has released. This is enough to make it one of the stand-out cameras in its class. Although having the option of an EVF accessory would have been nice, the LCD is large and bright making it perfectly capable for capturing friends and family.

    The new sensor inside the camera helps deliver best-in-class video and, combined with an updated processor, substantial improvements to face and eye detection autofocus.

    The redesigned top plate, the variety of color choices and the compact form factor make it a lot of fun to shoot with as well, with twin dials giving you some room to grow into, if you want to learn the basics of photography. That may seem frivolous, but given the target market for this camera, the fun factor is actually quite important. The best camera is the one that you have with you, and the X-A7 is stylish, easy to use, and small enough that it won’t weigh you down on vacation or when you are out with friends.


    Scoring

    Scoring is relative only to the other cameras in the same category. Click here to learn about the changes to our scoring system and what these numbers mean.

    Fujifilm X-A7
    Category: Entry Level Interchangeable Lens Camera / DSLR
    Build quality
    Ergonomics & handling
    Features
    Metering & focus accuracy
    Image quality (raw)
    Image quality (jpeg)
    Low light / high ISO performance
    Viewfinder / screen rating
    Performance
    Movie / video mode
    Connectivity
    Value
    PoorExcellent
    Conclusion
    The X-A7 is a small, affordable mirrorless camera whose interface makes it easy and enjoyable to use.

    Good for
    Selfies, video and learning photography

    Not so good for
    Composing shots in bright light (where a viewfinder helps)
    81%
    Overall score

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    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • DPReview TV: How to look good and sound great on videos (and video conferences) from home

    Lots of people are suddenly working from home. For many, that means creating online videos for others to watch or logging time on video calls. We review some simple techniques to make your videos look and sound great, so you’ll look more professional.

    Subscribe to our YouTube channel to get new episodes of DPReview TV every week.

    • Introduction
    • Better audio
    • Coverage
    • Coverage example
    • Better video calls
    • Better live audio
    • Camera angle
    • Lighting
    • Conclusion

    For more tips, watch Chris and Jordan’s earlier video about coverage on The Camera Store TV.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • These are the best portrait lenses for Canon DSLR shooters

    We think the Canon EF 50mm F1.8 STM and Sigma 85mm F1.4 Art are the best all-around picks for APS-C and full-frame Canon DSLRs, respectively, but we’ve got more recommendations to meet a range of budgets.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Peak Design announces Travel Tripod launch date, unveils ‘Weird Times Sale’ with 20-40% off gear

    We’ve already seen the Peak Design Travel Tripod and gotten our hands on it for a short period of time, but after successfully sending out units to its Kickstarter backers, Peak Design is ready to open up orders to the public. At 12am PST on April 7, Peak Design will allow the general public to purchase their latest piece of gear; but that’s not all. Peak Design says 100% of profits from every tripod sold will be split 50/50 to COVID-19 disaster relief and climate change relief funds.

    The Travel Tripod launch announcement was originally embargoed for the day of the launch, April 7, but Peak Design Founder and CEO Peter Dering took to YouTube in the above video to explain the decision to launch the tripod at the time they’ve chosen, as well as announce a ‘Weird Times Sale’ that is currently live and sees nearly all Peak Design gear (everything except the Travel Tripod) between 20–40% off to help keep inventory moving during a time when sales have all but ceased.

    A breakdown of the discounts for Peak Design’s sale.

    Travel Tripod Updates

    The Peak Design Travel Tripods were first introduced in May 2019. Over the course of its Kickstarter campaign, the company raised over $ 12.1 million from more than 27k backers. Over the course of production, Peak Design altered a few aspects of the design to refine the initial version to improve the overall experience. Specifically, Peak Design’s revisions include a new hex tool key with leg clip holder, an updated padded, weatherproof carry bag and an ultralight conversion kit that turns the tripod into a more compact tabletop tripod.

    Peak Design also opted to use an aluminum center column for its carbon fiber tripod, citing testing its own engineering team came up with as well as insight from tripod testing extraordinaire David Berryrieser of the Center Column. Peak Design says Berryrieser’s testing, ‘revealed a significant improvement in the aluminum center column resisting lateral twist, less vertical slip and higher max load for the counterweight hook […] All this for the price of 16g or 10 paper clips worth of additional weight.’

    As previously mentioned, 100% of profits from each Travel Tripod sold from April 7–10 through PeakDesign.com and Peak Design’s retail partners around the world will be distributed to the CDC Foundation and Climate Neutral.

    You can find the ‘Weird Times Sale’ on Peak Design’s online shop and authorized Peak Design retailers. Travel Tripod sales should go live at 12am on April 7 if you’re interested in securing one.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Glimpse image editor aims to make open-source GNU Image Manipulation Program more accessible

    The Glimpse project has released a new fork of the GNU Image Manipulation Program often referred to as ‘GIMP,’ called Glimpse image editor. This free, open-source image editing software is building upon the legacy of the GNU Image Manipulation Program to make free image editing software more user-friendly and accessible. If you’re unfamiliar with GNU Image Manipulation Program, it is a free alternative to Adobe Photoshop, offering much of the same core functionality.

    GNU Image Manipulation has remained an important tool for many users, but over time, it has seen fewer updates and improvements and has lagged behind modern photo editing software. By forking, Glimpse Image Editor can build upon a stable foundation but reinvigorate efforts to improve the usability and functionality of the software.

    Screenshot from Glimpse image editor

    There are three primary reasons for the Glimpse project forking. First is the name of the GNU Image Manipulation Program, GIMP. The name ‘GIMP’ was chosen nearly two decades ago as a reference to a scene in the cult classic movie, Pulp Fiction. However, many people find the name offensive. At worst, the name is ableist and reduces the reach of the program, especially in educational settings. There have been many user complaints and requests for the GNU Image Manipulation Program to be renamed, but the team in charge of the project has opted against a major change.

    Secondly, the dedicated user interface design team for GNU Image Manipulation Program hasn’t met since 2012, resulting in fewer usability improvements and slower development of updates.

    Finally, GNU Image Manipulation Program made the decision to remove its built-in mechanism to support third-party plug-ins. To help deal with this, Glimpse will include useful third-party plug-ins pre-bundled.

    The Glimpse project is quick to point out that the intention is not to replace GNU Image Manipulation Program, but rather, to provide a rebranded fork which is more appropriate in professional and educational settings. On GitHub, the Glimpse project says the following of Glimpse image editor, ‘The aim of Glimpse Image Editor is to repackage the GNU Image Manipulation Program to make it more appealing to the wider computer-using public, and also to better tailor the program for school and workplace deployments.’

    Of course, it is about more than just the name. As of now, Glimpse has been focused on removing the pre-existing ‘GIMP’ branding. Over the longer term, the team aims to revise the graphical user interface and improve overall functionality and usability. Ultimately, in terms of both the name and overall goals for Glimpse, the team hopes to make free image editing software more accessible.

    As of now, you can download and install Glimpse on systems running Windows 7 or newer and modern variants of GNU/Linux. Support for macOS is in the works. Glimpse can be downloaded from Snapcraft and from Glimpse directly. If you are interested in learning more about the project and finding out how you can contribute, click here.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Canon’s EOS M6 Mark II finally gets a 24p video mode via new firmware update

    As it had assured consumers back in October 2019, Canon has released a firmware update for its EOS M6 Mark II camera that adds a 24p (23.98fps) mode that was inexplicably missing from the camera until now.

    Canon has already released firmware for the other camera systems it promised 24p modes for, including the EOS 90D and EOS RP, so the new 1.1.0 update for the EOS M6 Mark II wraps up its response to customer feedback regarding the lack of a 24p mode when shooting video.

    In addition to adding the 24p mode, the update also fixes an issue wherein the focus position of the lens returns to the home position if the camera powers off while in ‘Auto Power Off’ is turned on during ‘Interval Timing’ shooting as well as an issue that, ‘in rare cases’ would cause the camera to not focus at the edges of the image area.

    The 1.1.0 firmware update is currently available to download (40MB) for both macOS and Windows computers on Canon’s EOS M6 Mark II product page.

    Changelog:

    Firmware Version 1.1.0 incorporates the following enhancement and fixes:

    1. The option to capture movies in the frame rate of 23.98p has been added.
    2. Fixes the phenomenon where the focus position of the lens returns to the home position if the camera powers off due to the “Auto Power Off” setting during Interval Timing shooting.
    3. Fixes the phenomenon in which, in rare cases, the camera may not autofocus at the edges of the image area.

    Firmware Version 1.1.0 is for cameras with firmware up to Version 1.0.1. If the camera’s firmware is already Version 1.1.0, it is not necessary to update the firmware.

    When updating the firmware of the camera, please review the instructions thoroughly before you download the firmware.

    Notes: You can download the latest version of the instruction manual from our Web site.

    Q&A: Preparations for a firmware update: After the downloaded compressed file (.dmg file) is extracted, a firmware folder is created.

    *Extracting the downloaded file: The downloaded folder is automatically extracted, and a firmware folder is created. If the download folder cannot be automatically extracted, double-click the folder.

    The extracted folder contains the firmware (File name: M6200110.FIR, File size: 37,013,792 bytes) and instructions on the firmware update procedures (a PDF file in five languages: Japanese, English, French, Spanish, and Simplified Chinese).

    Before starting the firmware update operations, please confirm the contents of the download, and carefully read through the firmware update procedures.

    (The following is the history of past firmware updates) Changes in Version 1.0.1:

    1. Corrects a PTP communications vulnerability.
    2. Corrects a vulnerability related to firmware update.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Create Light Beams in GIMP that Glow Without Any Plug-ins

    The post Create Light Beams in GIMP that Glow Without Any Plug-ins appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.

    Create Light Beams in GIMP that Glow Without Any Plug-ins

    Do you want to create light beams with GIMP? While previous versions of GIMP used a process called Alpha to Logo, it’s not available in the latest version. Not to worry, you don’t have to download any plug-in or script-fu, as I’ll show you a step-by-step example to do them manually.

    Create Light Beams

    GIMP’s open-source nature can be the most attractive thing for some people and the most off-putting for others. Create light beams used to be a one-click operation, but the script-fu was removed since version 2.10.4. There’s a way to get it back and install it separately, but you can also create them using GIMP’s basic functions.

    How to Create Light Beams in GIMP

    1. Design the shape

    Open the image or canvas where you want to create light beams.

    Now create a new layer, I strongly recommend you to name them as you go because you will need a few of them.

    Do this in the designated space on the top. Then choose Fill With Transparency and click OK.

    Add transparency layers

    In this new layer, draw the shape of your light beam using the Path Tool. Make sure the Edit Mode is set to Design and start drawing.

    If you want to create curves, just hold the mouse button and drag the anchor point.

    Design light beams

    Once you have the shape you want, choose the color by clicking in the patches you find on the left panel.

    Then right-click in any anchor point of your shape and choose Edit > Stroke Path from the menu.

    Stroke the designed path

    This will open a pop-up window.

    Select Paintbrush and Emulate Paintbrush.

    This will apply the effect using the settings you have in your Paintbrush tool as if you had painted the shape.

    2. Create the beam

    Now, the stroke needs to start looking like a light beam. For this, you need to draw a lighter outline to it. The easiest way is to right-click on the layer and choose Alpha to Selection.

    Alpha to selection

    Go back to the color swatches and choose a lighter hue, or even white.

    Create another transparency layer, then go to Edit > Stroke Selection. In the pop-up window choose Stroke Line and set the value that will determine how thick you want it.

    Create light beams outlines
    Here I disabled the visibility of the first stroke. You don’t have to do this, it was only to show you how the second stroke does an outline.

    Deselect everything and click on the Layer Mask button.

    Set it to black (full transparency). This will cover the entire outline you created before, but that’s OK, you’ll make it visible in the next step.

    Pick the Paint Brush tool and set the color to white.

    Then lower the opacity of the brush and paint over your light beam to slowly make the outline visible. After that, with full opacity, paint over some parts to create highlights.

    add some highlights
    I used full opacity only in the curves because that’s where I want the highlights to be.

    3. Make it glow

    Duplicate this layer and delete the mask. Lower its opacity and then go to Filters > Blur > Gaussian Blur. The value is up to you, I started with 22. Repeat this process a second time, this time changing the values in the Opacity and the Blur filter.

    create light beams that glow

    This is how you can create light beams that appear to glow. If you feel like adding a neon effect, keep on reading to learn how.

    4. Add some color for a neon effect

    With the top layer selected, add a new transparency layer.

    Then set the color you want in the swatches.

    Since you’re going for a neon effect, I recommend you choose something ‘electric’.

    Use the Paint Brush tool to add some colored splats on your design.

    create neon light beams

    Change this layer to Soft Light blending mode at the top of the Layers panel.

    Then create another one and do the same with another color. Change this one to HSL Color.

    create light beams using GIMP

    That’s it! Your neon glowing light beam is ready.

    Feel free to skip any step or add some more to make it your own.

    Remember, the good thing about doing them manually is that you have full control over the outcome.

    Extra tip:

    If you want it to swirl around something, like mine, just erase or cover with a layer mask the parts that should go behind the subject.

    Incorporate light beams in your photography

    Conclusion

    Scripts and plug-ins can save some time, but they aren’t necessarily available or easy to install. Granted, you don’t always know the individual commands that were automated and that makes it difficult.

    This process, however, is meant as a starting point to make it less daunting and allow you to get creative. I hope you liked this technique to create light beams in GIMP without any plug-ins.

    Want to learn more GIMP Tutorials? You may like:

    • A Brief introduction to GIMP Software
    • Creative Uses for the GIMP Jigsaw Pattern
    • How to Use Gimp for Basic Photo Re-Touching
    • Make your Photos Sparkle with GIMP
    • 5 Top Tips for Working with Gimp

    The post Create Light Beams in GIMP that Glow Without Any Plug-ins appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.


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