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  • 29 Unencumbered Images of Kids Being Kids

    Kids have a natural free spirit about them. They don’t sensor themselves and they do what they want, how they want, when they want to – usually.

    Let’s see some images (you’ll notice that a few of these are my own images) that capture this essence of what it is to be a kid:

    Benurs - Learning And Learning...

    By Benurs – Learning and learning…

    Maitham Rushaidan

    By Maitham Rushaidan

    Adoephoto

    By adoephoto

    United Nations Photo

    By United Nations Photo

    Marcin Moga

    By Marcin Moga

    Attila Siha

    By Attila Siha

    Brighter Than Sunshine

    By brighter than sunshine

    Premnath Thirumalaisamy

    By Premnath Thirumalaisamy

    ThomasLife

    By ThomasLife

    Robbert Van Der Steeg

    By Robbert van der Steeg

    Donnie Ray Jones

    By Donnie Ray Jones

    Darlene Hildebrandt

    By Darlene Hildebrandt

    Darlene Hildebrandt

    By Darlene Hildebrandt

    Darlene Hildebrandt

    By Darlene Hildebrandt

    Steve Evans

    By Steve Evans

    Steve Evans

    By Steve Evans

    Darlene Hildebrandt

    By Darlene Hildebrandt

    Capture Queen

    By Capture Queen

    ZOBEL *

    By ZOBEL *

    Kevin Conor Keller

    By Kevin Conor Keller

    Darlene Hildebrandt

    By Darlene Hildebrandt

    Darlene Hildebrandt

    By Darlene Hildebrandt

    Darlene Hildebrandt

    By Darlene Hildebrandt

    Amina Tagemouati

    By Amina Tagemouati

    Ilavanji Ilavanji

    By ilavanji ilavanji

    Paul David

    By Paul David

    Brittany Randolph

    By Brittany Randolph

    Peter Roome

    By Peter Roome

    David Guyler

    By David Guyler

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    The post 29 Unencumbered Images of Kids Being Kids by Darlene Hildebrandt appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • PIX 2015: Benjamin Von Wong and the journey from ordinary to extraordinary

    In his first year learning photography, Benjamin Von Wong created over 50,000 photographs, but none of them struck him as extraordinary. It wasn’t until he tried out a flash gun that he began to see new possibilities that could make his work stand out. Many more photos later, Benjamin Von Wong is well-known for imagery that blends practical effects, fantastic locations and post-processing into something surreal and extraordinary. Find out how he got his start and what inspires his elaborate shoots in his PIX 2015 talk.

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    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Radikale Liebe

    Eine betende Nonne mit Rosenkranz in der Hand.

    Als Lauren sich im Alter von 21 Jahren dafür entschied, ihr Leben einem Ort und einer Gemeinschaft zu widmen, veränderte sich ihr Leben „radikal“. Diese Veränderung dokumentierte die Fotojournalistin Toni Greaves über insgesamt sechs Jahre.
    kwerfeldein – Fotografie Magazin | Fotocommunity

  • Mild Max: Perth Police Put a Stop to Motorized Picnic Tables

    [ By WebUrbanist in Technology & Vehicles & Mods. ]

    mobile motorized picnic tables

    In what could be viewed as a pre-apocalyptic take on hacked vehicular hybrids of the Mad Max movies, a pair of picnic table cars have been spotted on the streets of Western Australia’s capital city.

    These road-worthy cruisers can apparently reach speeds of 50 kilometers per hour, handling like go-karts with bonus table space for passengers to set down their beers.

    motorized picnic tables

    Cops put out alerts on the vehicles based on CCTV footage and eventually spotted them as they stopped to fuel up at a gas station.

    picnic table vehicle

    “They told the boys that were drinking to tip their liquor out and get rid of it which we did and they said we’re not allowed to drive [the picnic tables] on the road and just to push them back across the other side of the road and then we can carry on from there.”

    picnic table intersection

    Inspired by a friend who constructs similar creations in New Zealand, the tables’ owner and builder explained that each model is constructed with a four-speed clutch, gears, accelerator and brakes. Police are still evaluating their presumably-illegal road usage, with potential penalties or fines yet to come, though all appears to have been in good fun.

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    [ By WebUrbanist in Technology & Vehicles & Mods. ]

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  • Pulse aims to bring advanced wireless control to your DSLR

    Pulse, a project currently seeking funding on Kickstarter, aims to bring wireless control to many Nikon and Canon DSLRs. The device consists of a wireless controller that attaches to a camera’s hot shoe and plugs into its USB port, connecting to Android and iOS smartphones over Bluetooth. Read more

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • 3. Dezember 2015

    Das Bild des Tages von: Margarete Elmenhorst

    © Margarete Elmenhorst

    Im Ausblick: Digitale Bilder lügen, Cinematography und ein Rechtsstreit.
    kwerfeldein – Fotografie Magazin | Fotocommunity

  • Create Your Own Watermark using a Custom Shape in Photoshop

    Transparent-watermark

    Big transparent type copyright watermark that you would use send to clients for proofing.

    I know there are many ways of creating a watermark. Using the Watermark Editor in Lightroom for example allows you to add your own text or graphic to your images. In general there is a lot of debate whether or not to add a watermark to images.

    This article isn’t going to discuss the pros and cons of watermarking your images. Instead, I will demonstrate a step-by-step tutorial using the Custom Tool in Photoshop.

    Whether you upload your images to the various social media platforms, or you want to send a client a high resolution image for proofing. This easy tutorial will show you how to create your own watermark using the custom tool in Photoshop.

    For a while, my method was opening an image file where I had my own custom copyright information on a text layer. So that I could easily drag and drop this text layer onto a new image. This made more sense and took less time to add a watermark image rather than creating it every time. That is until one day, I couldn’t find the file!

    Here are my four easy to follow steps to creating your own custom watermark using the Custom Tool in Photoshop. I prefer to use a custom shape over a custom brush. Shapes are vectors which means they scale up or down without losing quality.

    Step 1 – Create a new document

    Open Photoshop and create a new document. Make it 1000 pixels wide, by 300 pixels high.

    Step 2 – Add text

    Press the letter D on your keyboard, to make sure your foreground color is black. Choose whatever font you like, then press T to select the type tool. Hold down ALT key on a Mac and press G (Alt+0169 on a PC). This brings up the copyright symbol, add a space and type your name and year.

    Alt+G-type-your-name-and-year

    Holding down the ALT key on a Mac and press G brings up the copyright symbol (Alt+0169 on a PC).

    Step 3 – Convert the layer to a shape

    Go over to the layers panel. Right click on the text layer and go down to Convert to Shape.

    Convert-text-layer-to-shape

    When you have typed your watermark. Right click on the layer and select Convert to Shape.

    This icon appears in the thumbnail to show that the layer is now a shape layer.

    This-icon-shows-the-layer-is-a-shape

    This icon in the thumbnail layer tells you that this is now a shape(vector) layer.

    Step 4 – Save as a custom shape

    Go up to Edit menu and select Define Custom Shape. A Shape Name dialog box appears – type in Watermark and click OK. This now adds your type as a custom option in your Shape Presets Library.

    Define-custom-shape-under-edit

    This is how you save your watermark custom shape in the presets library to use again and again.

    Shape-name-dialog-box

    Give your watermark a name so that you can find it easily. Plus you may decide to have a few.

    That’s it. It took just four steps to create your own custom copyright watermark. Let me show now how to access, and add it to your images.

    Apply your watermark to images for online viewing

    Open an image that you want to share on Facebook, Flickr, etc. Create a new layer in the Layers Panel. Choose the Custom Shape tool in the toolbar (press Shift+U)

    Custom-shape-tool-highlighted-in-toolbar

    This is where you find the Custom Shape Tool in the Toolbar.

    Go up to the Options Bar and click on the thumbnail next to the word Shape. This brings up the Shape Presets Library dialog box. At the very bottom, you will find the shape called Watermark.

    Watermark-shape-at-the-bottom-in-presets-library

    Custom shapes will always appear at the bottom in the presets library.

    Now press and hold the Shift key, click and drag the watermark shape across your image. The Shift key ensures the shape remains in proportion. Don’t worry about the size just yet. Place it in position – in this case, I placed the watermark bottom right.

    Now as the foreground color was set to black, I want to change the color to white. Go up to the Layers Panel and click on the Layer thumbnail and the color picker dialog box appears. You can choose whatever color you want here.

    Changing-color-of-watermark-to-white

    You can customise your watermark shape with any colour or style effect.

    Go back up to the Layers Panel and reduce the opacity to your desired setting. I chose 40%.

    Opacity-reduced-to-40-per-cent

    Reducing the opacity allows for your watermark to be more discreet.

    I now want to reduce the size of the watermark. Go up to the Edit menu and choose Free Transform Path (Cmd+T on a Mac). Holding down the Shift and Alt keys, drag any of the corners of the transform handles in towards the centre. This reduces the size while keeping the aspect in proportion. Press Enter or the Commit Transform button up in the Options Bar. Go up to File and Save for the Web.

    Apply to high res images for proofing

    Okay, so let’s say you want to send a higher resolution image to a client. Open up the image. Click on the Custom Shape Tool (Shift+U). The watermark shape is already selected, so hold the Shift key and click and drag right across the image. Leave the color as it is.

    This watermark is going to be transparent. Click on the Add a Layer Style icon at the bottom of the Layers Panel and select Bevel and Emboss. The Layer Style dialog box appears. Increase the size to 8 pixels and change the direction to down.

    Bevel-and-Emboss-layer-style

    Layer styles can be found by clicking on this icon at the bottom of the layers Panel. Alternatively, go up to Layer menu and choose Layer Style.

    Bevel-and-Emboss

    The Bevel and Emboss is a good effect to add to your watermark if you want to make more transparent, while still protecting your image.

    Next go over to the left and click on the Blending Options: Custom, which is directly above the Bevel and Emboss. Under Advance Blending bring the Fill Opacity slider down to zero and click OK. Go back up to Opacity in the Layers Panel and reduce to 68%.

    Blending-Options-Custom-2

    Reducing the Fill Opacity hides the colour and just leaves the effect.

    Tip:

    To place your Custom Watermark Shape at the top in the Presets Library, click on the thumbnail right of the word Shape in the Options Bar. The Shape Presets Library dialog box appears. Click on the gear icon and select Preset Manager, the Preset Manager dialog box appears with all the shapes. The Watermark shape is the very last one, click and drag it up to the top and click the Done button.

    Location-of-Presets-Manager

    By clicking on the gear icon, the pop-out menu where the Preset Manger is located appears.

    Moving-watermark-shape-to-top-Presets-Manager

    Here in the Preset Manager, you can rearrange the shapes inside of the dialog box. Just click on any shape and drag it where you want it. I moved the watermark shape to the top for easy access.

    Do you use watermarks on your images? Why or why not?

    What techniques do you use? Please share in the comments below.

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    The post Create Your Own Watermark using a Custom Shape in Photoshop by Sarah Hipwell appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • Last Stop: 2,800 Drowned NYC Subway Cars Turned Marine Habitats

    [ By WebUrbanist in Destinations & Sights & Travel. ]

    dropping reef closeup

    Since the early 2000s, decommissioned New York City subway cars have been seeded into the waters around New Jersey, Delaware, Virginia and other eastern states, creating infrastructure for fish habitats along the coastal shelf running from New York to North Carolina. Artificial reefs like these can increase sea life concentrations dramatically in otherwise-flat subsurface regions, boasting up to hundreds of times as much biomass per area of seafloor.

    dumping subway cars

    dropping reef filling

    In late 2000, the Metro Transit Authority began dumping 1200 old cars into the water; in 2007, another 1600 were added to the list. These frameworks of these sunken cars serve as replacement rock outcrops on which corals and plants grow, leading to oysters, mussels and further sea life. Photographer Stephen Mallon has spent years capturing this deliberate subway-dumping activity in action on the surface.

    dropping reef then

    Meanwhile, sequential underwater images show the subsurface results over time. The progress photos above and below were shot after 5 years and 10 years, respectively, demonstrating just how rapidly and effectively these places can become populated, first sparsely and then densely.

    dropping reef now

    The critical amount of biomass that develops makes these cars hotspots for diverse populations of underwater creatures all along the food chain, together forming self-sustaining regional ecosystems.

    dropping car crane water

    In turn, these locations can attract fishermen and divers as well, keen both to see the thriving populations of aquatic life but also to explore the underwater ruins of modern machines. Far as they may be from their original subterranean homes, these train cars still manage to serve citizens of cities along the Atlantic coast in their own unusual ways.

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    [ By WebUrbanist in Destinations & Sights & Travel. ]

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  • Byte sized: JPEGmini claims no loss of perceptual quality, up to 80% smaller files

    Most of us think of image compression as a necessary evil. It makes our files more manageable in terms of size, but reduces the quality of our images and can undo the incremental benefits of buying more pixels and better lenses. If offered the choice between more or less image compression, I suspect that most photographers would always go for less. Hence, the idea of buying a piece of software that aims to reduce the size of JPEG files by up to 80% might seem a little crazy. But that is exactly what Beamr, the company behind the JPEGmini application, is offering.

    Introduced in 2011, JPEGmini acts as a standalone product or as a plug-in for Lightroom and is a compression optimizer that takes in existing JPEG files and makes them smaller – without reducing the quality of the image, the company claims. The idea is to save space on hard drives, external storage devices, make websites run more quickly, deliver more manageable file sizes to clients and help reduce spending on cloud storage. We’ve read up on it and written about its desktop and mobile applications briefly, but Senior DPReview Contributor Damien Demolder recently had the chance to sit down with the company’s Chief Technology Officer to find out more about how it works.

    How it works

    Dror Gill, CTO and VP of Beamr, the company behind JPEGmini

    In an interview, Beamr’s CTO Dror Gill explains how JPEGmini works and how the company measures its claimed ‘no change’ in image quality.

    ‘JPEGmini works with standard JPEGs. The input is a standard JPEG and the output is a standard JPEG. We recompress that standard JPEG photo by up to 80%, and the resolution remains the same and the perceptual quality of the image remains the same. When we talk about ‘perceptual image quality’ we mean that if you took this photo and viewed it on your screen at Actual Pixels, or 100% magnification, and compared it to the original you wouldn’t be able to determine which was the original and which one was the optimized. That’s what we call ‘perceptually identical’ to the original.’

    I wanted to know who the ‘you’ was in that qualification – as the opinions of a general consumer, a photographer and a scientist will all be significantly different. Gill said that ‘99% of the population’ wouldn’t be able to tell the difference, including most photographers. 

    ‘Any JPEG compression introduces artefacts, but the question is,
    are these artefacts visible by humans or not?’

    ‘Most of our customers are professional photographers, and they have realised that the photos that they get out of JPEGmini are as good as the originals and that they can use them in the same situations and for the same uses. Of course, the JPEG process introduces artefacts that you don’t find in the RAW file, so any JPEG produced by Photoshop or Lightroom will have artefacts, but our claim is that our processed image will look the same as the original JPEG and the compression will not introduce further artefacts. Any JPEG compression introduces artefacts, but the question is, are these artefacts visible by humans or not? We have developed a quality measure that gives us that answer with very high accuracy. This quality measure has much better correlation with human results than other scientific quality measures.’

    The software works by analyzing the content of each image, and determining how much compression can be applied to each individual area. Images are broken down into tiles of a set number of pixels, and the degree of compression acceptable is assessed according to the level of information recorded in the tile. Gill wouldn’t say how the tiles interact with each other, but we worked on the presumption that the tiles were about 150 pixels square.

    If there isn’t much data recorded the content can be compressed more than if a tile contains a lot of data, so the savings are made via a more flexible process than the usual global compression ratios that most software applications and cameras work with. The software produces compression level ‘candidates’ for each tile, which basically means it tries different levels and determines the maximum that can be achieved without loss of the information in the tile – and then that amount is applied.

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    Gill says camera manufacturers don’t like to use a lot of compression because too many reviewers and customers think that image quality and the amount of detail in an image can be determined by the size of the file created, and that people associate smaller file sizes with lower levels of picture information. Camera brands, he says, don’t want to produce files that are smaller than their competitors as some reviewers will immediately mark them down for it without studying the comparison images.

    ‘what we do is take that image and determine
    what is the exact optimal level of compression for that particular picture’

    Cameras don’t have any mechanism for evaluating the content of the image either, he says, so the compression has to be global and to err on the safe side. ‘This results in a relatively large JPEG,’ says Gill, ‘but what we do is take that image and determine what is the exact optimal level of compression for that particular picture. Some images are more easily compressed than others – some have very delicate textures and smoothly varying color gradients, and for those you need to use high quality settings. If the content is mainly smooth surfaces and busy backgrounds, that you can’t tell if they are degraded or not, you can use a higher compression ratio.’

    Gill says that out-of-focus backgrounds can be compressed more than focused areas, as the software analysis works by detecting the amount of detail and information present. This brings up the question of whether a poor lens will be made to look worse by the compression compared to the same area captured by a sharp lens, but Gill maintains that the difference wouldn’t show. Tests, I suppose, will give us the sure answer to that.

    If you view the optimized images at 800% Gill admits that you would see the differences, but at normal viewing and for normal use you won’t. ‘These optimised files are designed to be viewed at 100% and to be printed. In print it is even harder to see the differences than on screen.’

    ‘the inefficiency of normal JPEG compression pollutes the environment’

    The whole idea of JPEGmini, Gill explains, is to save space on laptops, hard disks, online and in external storage. ‘There are a lot of terabytes wasted by files that are larger than they need to be. There is no point using bytes and bits that are not visible to humans. The industry is doing it all the time. Maybe we should calculate how many exabytes are being wasted every day – the inefficiency of normal JPEG compression pollutes the environment’ he only half-jokes.

    Gill’s father is Aaron Gill, who was one of the chief scientists who worked on the original JPEG standard in the 1980s. I ask how he feels about his son tampering with the way JPEGs are created. ‘At first he was sceptical and asked me what I was doing getting mixed up with this company that wants to reduce file sizes, but after he tried it I think he was proud of me.’

    Trying it out

    JPEGmini supports JPEG files up to 28MP, while its JPEGmini pro and JPEGmini Server siblings support up to 60MP images. To give an idea of what JPEGmini does, I ran a 25.45MB Raw file through Lightroom and exported a ‘best quality’ JPEG of 10.12MB. After being exported again via the JPEGmini plug-in the file was compressed to 2.66MB, and still measured the same 4608×3456 (16MP) pixels it did originally – so the JPEGmini file is a quarter of the size of the normal JPEG.

    The software still makes considerable savings even if you don’t usually convert your images using the best quality settings. For comparison, that Raw file exported as a JPEG at 80% quality in Lightroom (not using JPEGmini) resulted in a 4.8MB file. The 2.6MB JPEGmini file is just over half the size.

    Although photographers might like the idea of saving space most are not interested in doing so at the cost of quality, and frankly I think most of us struggle to believe that such a dramatic file size reduction can be achieved without any detrimental effect on the content of the picture.

    Normal JPEG exported from Lightroom at best quality JPEG exported from Lightroom via the JPEGmini plug-in

    In my very brief tests I have been able to see slight differences in levels of micro contrast and the amount of very fine texture that is resolved when the images I used were viewed at 100% on screen. More tests will be required to see exactly what is lost and what is at stake, and I’m compelled to make those tests by the carrot of saving a massive amount of space in storage and by the prospect of having a website with large images that runs quickly. At this stage I can say that in the image I tested the plug-in with tiny differences could be seen when the images were compared at 100%, but at print size (33%) the differences were certainly not apparent.

    Normal JPEG converted from Raw at quality 11 – 2.2MB JPEG further compressed via JPEGmini app – 980KB

    If you can’t wait for the results of my testing you can download the $ 19.99 standard standalone version of JPEGmini for a free trial. JPEGmini Pro costs $ 149 but can work with images of up to 60MP, is up to 8x quicker and comes with the Lightroom plug-in option as well as the standalone application. At the moment however, JPEGmini only accepts JPEG files. That means even using the Lightroom plug-in, a Raw file must first be converted to JPEG to then be re-saved as a smaller JPEG by the application. 

    For more information visit the JPEGmini website.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • 10 Tips for Taking Stunning Winter Portraits of Your Kids

    Just because it’s winter doesn’t mean we can only shoot indoors. It may be cold (and rainy if you’re in London) most days, but when the winter sun shows its face, it fills the earth with a beautiful warm glow, especially late in the day. This bring us to what is known as the golden hour – typically about an hour before sunset. The further you are from the equator, the more time you would need, in my case about 1 – 1.5 hours, before sunset.

    Winter portrait1

    Here are my 10 top tips on how to get stunning winter portraits of your own kids:

    #1 Choose the right day and time

    Choose a sunny day and plan to get to your shooting location a good hour or so before sunset.

    #2 Dress them warmly and make it fun

    Wrap your children up nice and toasty so they won’t complain. Tell them you are taking them out for one hour to the park or the playground (or your chosen location) but that you would like to take a few photos of them before you get to the actual promised site. The easiest for us was the playground, as we have to walk about 10 minutes from the entrance to the park to get to there. It is a good idea to choose a halfway point to stop.

    Winter portrait3

    #3 Have warm beverages during or after the session

    Either bring a snack or warm drinks in a thermos (keep it light and simple though), promise to take them for a nice warm drink in a nearby cafe after your little trip to the playground, or make them hot chocolates when you get home (whatever works for you).

    #4 Find the good light and start shooting

    Halfway to the playground, your kids would already have been having fun running and chasing each other. Remind them of the photos you want to take, and show them the light is so beautiful and perfect. Ask for their suggestions where you could stop and take some nice picture. Make sure there is light coming from one side, but that they are fully in the shade of a tree (open shade) to avoid hotspots and mottled faces.

    Winter portrait2

    #5 Be fast

    Keep it quick! Kids get bored if you take too long so just aim for a few portraits. Ask them to stand, cuddle and tickle, or make each other laugh, swap places, do their own poses and click away like nobody’s business.

    Techie tips: If shooting in semi-automatic mode, choose a wide aperture or set it to Aperture Priority (and choose a large aperture, small f-number) so you get the blurry background effect. Always focus on the child’s eyes if possible.

    Winter portrait5

    #6 Use backlight to your advantage

    Shoot with the kids backlit. The best time to do this is during the golden hour. The sun is low, the sky is a reddish blue and the light is softer, more diffused, and indirect.

    Shooting backlit is really quite a difficult technique which requires some mastering. This is when the sun or light source is in front of your camera, and behind your subject. The late sun gives stunning soft light, that illuminates your child’s hair or clothing like it has just been kissed by the sun.

    Winter portrait4

    You would also need either a really wide aperture, a flash, or a reflector to bring light back into your child’s face. A reflector can be a large white/silver/gold sheet that you angle towards their face, to bounce the light back into it. Or, you can choose a location with a natural reflector such as a white, or light coloured wall, facing the sunset and position your child in front of it, at an angle, so that part of their face gets the reflected light. I suggest a wide aperture for portraits as that helps give a nice glow to the skin, spot metered, and focused on the eyes.

    #7 Go for lens flare

    This is really quite difficult as you don’t want to be looking straight at the sun. When you see the sun’s rays streaming through the viewfinder of your camera, that’s a sure sign that you are capturing flare. Flare floods your camera with light and everything else becomes a muddy, hazy silhouette. So try to get only a very small bit of flare right at the top or side of the viewfinder, and you will still get some good details, rather than a completely hazy image, devoid of any definition or detail.

    Winter portrait6

    #8 Embrace the imperfections

    From personal experience, my imperfections, mistakes, and lack of skills fuel creativity. So don’t be afraid to make mistakes and have imperfections; they are a blessing. Use them and learn from them.

    Winter portrait7

    #9 Capture some scene details after the portraits are done

    When the portraits are done, capture some contextual details such as the sky, trees, plants, grass, flowers, etc. Years down the line, when you look back at these photographs, details will help you remember the mood, the time, and the emotions of that day. Now that there’s no need to rush and the kids are playing, take your time and choose which details grab you, and take your breath away.

    Techie tips: Don’t forget to change your aperture when shooting the sky and trees to a much smaller one, in this case around f/5.6 or smaller. I find that while you can shoot wide opened it is more prone to have chromatic aberration than if you shoot at a smaller aperture. Really, it’s personal preference, but this is what I recommend.

    Winter portrait10

    #10 Last but definitely not least, reward and celebrate

    Promise your kids not just the playground, but extra treats like snacks and hot drinks, and even a small surprise. It reinforces having a photoshoot as a positive experience, and ends it on a happy note. Then top it with a movie night at home!

    Have you done any winter portraits of your kids? Please share your images and any other tips you have in the comments below.

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    The post 10 Tips for Taking Stunning Winter Portraits of Your Kids by Lily Sawyer appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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