Category: Photography

  • Gregory Crewdson: Brief Encounters is Now Available on DVD, and Netflix Streaming

    ©Gregory Crewdson

    Netflix have acquired the rights to stream Ben Shapiro’s excellent 77-minute documentary, Gregory Crewdson: Brief Encounters. You can also buy it outright on DVD for $ 24.

    Sadly, the Netflix access this is US-only (maybe Canada? nope!) and only for Netflix streaming subscribers. But this is still far and away the biggest audience to have had access to the film.

    There’s no telling how long it will be up to stream. Netflix is notorious for having, then not having, the rights to a movie. So just in case, don’t wait too long. You can stream it here.

    (Many thanks to reader Tim Kamppinen for the heads-up!)

    -30-


    Strobist

  • The Hangout Where We Review the New Flickr

    Last night I recorded a special hangout show with nine other Flickr users where we talk about the new changes at Flickr. In the show we give a tour of the new Flickr, discuss/debate the changes, and provide Pro Tips on how to make the best of the new design.

    We also review the recent changes in your account options and discuss the differences between Free, Paid and the old Pro account.

    To get a look at what some of Flickr’s active users think of the new changes check it out.

    What do YOU think of the New Flickr?


    Thomas Hawk Digital Connection

  • Those Abusing Marissa Mayer’s Personal Flickrstream Should Be Ashamed of Themselves

    Dear Marissa Mayer

    As one of Flickr’s most active users, I’ve been watching intensively over the past 48 hours as the new Flickr design has been released. Personally speaking, I’m a fan. I think the new Flickr is the best version I’ve seen yet and agree with almost every design change that they made. That’s not what this post is about though; I’ve already given my opinion on the new Flickr here.

    This post is about respect and civility.

    As the drama of the new Flickr has unfolded, an element of what I consider to be the worst of the internet has taken to Yahoo CEO Marissa Mayer’s *PERSONAL* Flickr stream to express their disdain. Sure, Flickr (the company, not the person) has a dedicated Forum for users to discuss the new designs, which is way more than many companies provide, btw, but for some people this isn’t enough. They need to take their displeasure out personally on Mayer.

    Even worse, many of the attacks on Mayer’s *PERSONAL* Flickr stream are crude, classless, vulgar personal attacks of the worst kind.

    This is just absolutely awful.

    Whatever people may think about the new design, there is a way to go about talking about change. It saddens me to see the lowest element of the web react this way. It saddens me to see people in the help forum egging others on to go post on Mayer’s personal page.

    Ironically, it was “the internet” that asked Mayer to “make Flickr awesome again” when she first started up as CEO of Yahoo. Flickr had been neglected for years and finally Mayer would be our savior.

    Then, she goes and actually DOES make Flickr awesome again and people freak the fcuk out. Gee, thanks a lot! At least the page that asked her to make Flickr awesome again gets it right.

    Now, whether or not you love the new Flickr or hate it is your own opinion; design can sometimes be subjective — but to post images of excrement on someone’s personal Flickr page over that design opinion? Really? Watching people in the Help Forum encourage the trashing of someone’s personal Flickrstream is disturbing.

    Mayer is the first ever CEO of Yahoo to have a public Flickr page. She goes out on a limb and participates in the community and this is what people do? They trash her *personally* over design decisions?

    These people should be ashamed of themselves.

    I am all about healthy debate. I’ve probably been more vocal and critical of Flickr than just about anyone over the years. I’ve also been a huge cheerleader for Flickr when I feel like they’ve done well. I love Flickr and want to see it be the best place it can possibly be. I may get emotional and heated in my opinions sometimes, but there is a way that debate should go on on the internet, and trashing someone’s personal stream is not it.

    Mayer is the youngest CEO in the S&P 500. Whatever your opinion on her and her work, every intention she has with the new Flickr design is to make it BETTER. Being a highly visible CEO means taking a lot of flak. I understand that — but Marissa Mayer is also a human being, and deserves basic respect and civility — like EVERY OTHER HUMAN BEING.

    One of the reasons why I’ve largely quit Flickr Groups is because you can’t block people in Flickr Groups. I encountered some of the worst human beings I’ve ever met online in some Flickr Groups. Some of the folks who live on Flickr really are the worst of the worst. It’s disappointing seeing some of these same types take to someone’s personal Flickr stream.

    Let’s try to show the world that there are still people on Flickr who can discuss and debate with dignity and respect. I think it’s fine to debate the new Flickr design. I think it’s fine to be strongly opinionated about it. I think it’s fine to attack the design itself and share why you dislike it. Attacking employees, though, is way over the line.

    I have made my own mistakes on the web over the years. I, too, have, in the past, let my emotions get the best of me. It’s easy to get angry sometimes and I’m certainly capable of overreacting. I’ve tried to learn from these mistakes, though. It’s so much better to attack ideas than individuals. Hate is so ugly.

    We are better than this.


    Thomas Hawk Digital Connection

  • Learn How to Use the Sharpening Tools in Lightroom

    There’s no question that Lightroom is a powerful piece of photo processing software, but due to that power sometimes it’s not as easy to wrap our heads around everything it has to offer, that’s in part why I started my Let’s Edit YouTube series a weekly segment in which I share my own editing workflow for viewers to learn from.

    After starting this series one of the most commonly asked questions was to go into more detail on how the sharpening tools in Lightroom work. Sharpening in Lightroom is broken down into four different sliders – Amount, Radius, Detail and Masking – and they each work together to help you achieve the perfect amount of sharpness in your photograph. Today, rather than simply answer this question to the comparatively small group of people over on my site, I thought I’d bring these tips to the dPS community as a whole. I know there are a lot more people out there looking to master the art of sharpening images and I’m happy to help explain them.

    Before We Get Started

    There is one thing I’d like to mention before we dive into the tutorial and that is that these tools are designed to help improve an image that is sharp to begin with. They won’t fix camera shake, missed focus points, or poor DOF choices, but rather improve upon an already sharp image. So with that said if you’re struggling to get your image tack sharp you might want to check out this great DPS article on five tips to achieve sharper images first and then head back here to learn how you can make them even better.

    The Amount Slider

    As the name implies the amount slider is a broad and general addition or subtraction of the amount sharpening applied to your image. The more you slide to the right the sharper your image will become. It works by increasing the contrast between different pixels in a fairly general way. The next three sliders can help us refine how the amount of sharpening is applied throughout the image.

    Amount

    Before we get into those other sliders though I do want to mention that each of these four tools has an extra option attached to it. By using the Alt (windows) or Option (Mac) key on your computer you will be shown an overlay that will help aid you in making better decisions with your sharpening.

    For the amount slider this option removes the color from the image letting us use a simple gray scale image for sharpening. This is important because some colors can give false sense of sharpness when placed next to each other and can make it difficult to determine the true level of sharpness in the image.

    The Radius Slider

    Next in the detail panel is the Radius Slider which lets you control how far away from the center of each pixel the sharpening effect occurs. This is great for determining if you’d prefer a more airy feel (smaller radius) or a more hard edge feel (larger radius).

    Radius

    Each photograph is different and often times in portraiture the radius is left rather small, while in architecture or landscape, the radius can be made a bit larger to truly define the edges of your scene.

    With the radius slider the option key will create an overlay that allows you to see the effect of the edge sharpening in a visual and easy to understand way. The edges that are being effected become clearly defined and the areas of the photograph where this effect is not being applied will be left hidden behind a gray overlay. In the screen-capture above you’ll see with the radius slider maxed out the trees along the horizon are clearly defined in the overly.

    The Detail Slider

    I like to think of the detail slider as a fine-tuning slider or even just simply as picking up from where the radius slider left off. Rather than focusing on the hard edges of the image the detail slider is designed more for bringing out the finer textures of the images.

    Detail

    It does this by controlling how the high frequency data is displayed.

    The further you push the detail slider to the right the more high frequency data will be displayed resulting in more textures in your image. Be warned, if you push it too far in some cases the outcome will be overly sharp or you may start sharpening unwanted noise. These negatives are things you’ll want to watch out for as they can start to make your photograph too harsh for your viewer and distract from the overall story you’re trying to tell.

    To help you determine the optimum positioning of the detail slider the option overlay available works in much the same way as the radius slider showing you where your detail is being applied by showing you the areas effected by your changes.

    The Masking Slider

    Finally we’re down to the last one of the four. The masking slider allows you to in a sense control where your sharpening is to occur. By sliding it to the right you reduce the areas of the photograph that sharpening will occur by ignoring less important edges and only sharpening the more obvious ones.

    Masking

    Again with the alt or option key held down you are presented with an overlay for this slider which shows you where everything is occurring The areas in black are being masked out, while the areas in white are where the sharpening will take effect. As you can see above here the hard edges of the dog around her ears, muzzle and eyes are being sharpened where as the areas in black are not. It’s a great way to keep you background filled with creamy bokeh, but sharpen the face or focal point of your subject.

    Well that’s it – I hope this quick look into Lightroom’s detail sliders has helped you learn a bit about how to sharpen your photographs, if you’d like to see it in action check out this video where I go through the above steps while sharpening a Macaw from a recent trip to the local zoo.

    John Davenport is an avid amateur photography who shares his photography on Facebook. He also runs a weekly series called “Let’s Edit” which focuses on editing photos in Lightroom.

    Post originally from: Digital Photography Tips.

    Check out our more Photography Tips at Photography Tips for Beginners, Portrait Photography Tips and Wedding Photography Tips.

    Learn How to Use the Sharpening Tools in Lightroom


    Digital Photography School

  • Lavagem do BonFim by Valeria Torrens

    You can´t miss a visit to the Pelourinho with colorfull and narrow streets, full of mysterious and charming corners. Bahia, color bracelets from do Senhor do Bom Fim da Bahia and palm oil scents, create a unique climate, warm and memorable.

    IMG_5111

    In Pelourinho you will find the Lacerda Elevator and with a 5-cent coin you will be transported (like the 28,000 passengers who do daily) to the Mercado Modelo, traditional and gigantic market with sixty-three crafts shops. This unique place is the perfect setting to go during the special occasions that are repeated year after year. One of them is the “Lavagem do BonFim da Bahia”. This religious ceremony takes place every year. The crowd, mostly wearing white clothing with blue details starts the journey at 8 am from the Church of Nossa Senhora da Conceição da Praia, near the Mercado Modelo, in the lower part of the city. Surrounded by the gorgeous Baianas, in their white typical dresses and full of lovely and delicate laces, with flowers and large jars with water scented with alfazema (lavender), the journey began. The lucky inhabitants from this paradise mixed up with tourists from around the world. Flowers, necklaces, music and drums. Beer, lots of water, hats of all kinds. After an 8 km walk and climbing the hill that takes to the BonFim Church, the Baianas would be in charge of washing the stairs that takes us to the main entrance.

    IMG_5343

    This event is one of the most important celebrations in Salvador de Bahia, toguether with the Carnaval and the Iemanja´s day. Iemanja is one of the “Orixas”, the african gods worshiped by the Yoruba religion. She represents motherhood and is the Queen of the Sea. Her day is February 2. Her followers gather next to her temple, in the neighbourhood of Rio Vermelho. Small, waterfront, could be mistaken for a fisherman’s cottage. People would offer the goddess necklaces, mirrors, perfumes, various foods and flowers, many flowers. Infinite boats venture into the sea, carrying more and more gifts for Iemanjá.

    IMG_5322

    Love to travel! From Argentina.
    http://www.valeriatorrens.blogspot.com

    dslrBlog

  • Discover the Secrets to These 11 Special Effects Photography Projects: New dPS eBook

    NewImageToday we’re launching a new dPS eBook that I suspect is going to give a lot of our readers hours of fun while playing with their digital cameras.

    It’s called Photo Magic: Special Effects Photography Made Easy – an eBook by Neil Creek.

    As an Early Bird special you can grab it today at 25% off (just $ 15 USD).

    Over the years we’ve published thousands of tutorials here on dPS – many of which are on topics like Portraiture, Landscapes, Macro and Street Photography.

    However some of our most popular tutorials over the last few years have been when our authors have submitted teaching on how to do ‘trick’ or ‘special effects’ shots.

    As a result, I’ve long wanted to publish an eBook on Special Effects Photography and recently asked one of our regular authors – Neil Creek – if he’d like to write it.

    Neil was an obvious choice to author this eBook, he’s a Professional Photographer, experienced photography educator and he’s one of those guys who always seems to be working on a new technique for taking photos with that WOW factor.

    11 Fun Special Effects Photography Projects to Master

    In Photo Magic Neil walks you through 11 photography special effects. In each case he shows you a photo he’s taken and then will walk you through the steps he went through to take the shot.

    This is the perfect eBook for those weekends when you’re looking for something fun to do. Tackle each technique in turn and over the coming months you’ll have some spectacular images in your portfolio and will also have learned some new skills that you can then build upon to create your own special effects.

    Here’s just some of the shots Neil will walk you through taking.

    Zoomeffect

    NewImage

    NewImage

    NewImage

    NewImage

    NewImage

    Get full details on what’s included in this eBook here or order your copy at 25% off by clicking the download button below.

    download_it_now_photomagic

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    Post originally from: Digital Photography Tips.

    Check out our more Photography Tips at Photography Tips for Beginners, Portrait Photography Tips and Wedding Photography Tips.

    Discover the Secrets to These 11 Special Effects Photography Projects: New dPS eBook


    Digital Photography School

  • 6 Secret Photography Lighting Techniques For Capturing A Good Photo

    Everyone loves to take pictures. With the easy availability of cheap DSLR cameras on the market and the advent of affordable photography gadgets, who wouldn’t right? If you are one of those who loves photography, then you probably are already aware of one or two techniques to make your pictures look awesome! But if you’re looking to further improve your Continue Reading

    The post 6 Secret Photography Lighting Techniques For Capturing A Good Photo appeared first on Photodoto.


    Photodoto

  • On Assignment: Back to the Well

    Tian Lu (left) and Yuri Shadrin are both accomplished pianists in their own right. But when they play as a duet (on the same piano) they produce an intuitive mix of music and banter that could only come from the married couple that they are.

    He is Russian, she is Chinese. Which made them the perfect choice to perform in China later this month in commemoration of an upcoming regional trade partnership between China and Russia.

    So I shot their publicity portraits in one of my favorite little environmental portrait nooks in Howard County—under the fountain downtown at the lakefront. I have shot here before, but every time I come back I see the place a little differently.

    Read more »
    Strobist

  • Canadian Travelogue – Newfoundland – Cape St. Mary’s

    Cape St. Mary’s Ecological Reserve is about a one hour drive south on Highway 100 from the Marine Atlantic ferry terminus of Argentia. The drive to the reserve itself is fascinating and provides many opportunities for images of the rugged maritime coastline, particularly around Ship Cove and Gooseberry Cove. Should your departure point be the international airport at St. John’s, the drive will take about three hours as you travel inland via Salmonier Line, and south across the Avalon Peninsula to St. Bride’s.  Should you want the most scenic drive from St. John’s, take the 350Km coastal drive along what is known locally as the “Irish Loop.”  Be forewarned, however, you will want to stop continuously and can easily spend a couple of days playing tourist before you arrive at the Placentia Bay community of St. Brides.

    Once at the reserve your best vantage point will be mere metres from the large precipitous pinnacle known as Bird Rock, which is a 30-minute walk from the Visitation Centre. You will be welcomed to Bird Rock by a chorus originating from the third largest nesting colony of Northern gannets in North America. In addition there is a large rookery of common murre (known locally as turres), black-legged kittiwake, thick-billed murre, razorbill, black guillemont, double-crested and great cormorant as well as Northern fulmar all nesting at the site.  By far the most spectacular of these Pelagic species that nest here each summer is the golden headed avian dive bombing gannet.

    You will also want to be vigilant as there is a strong possibility you will see the resident red fox scampering along the headlines in search of a poultry lunch.

    Cape St. Mary's is one of the best locations in eastern Canada to make portraits of the sleek Northern Gannet.

    Cape St. Mary’s is one of the best locations in eastern Canada to make portraits of the sleek Northern Gannet.

    Images can be made here even during the harsh light of high-noon. For unique pictures mount your camera on a tripod and extend the legs as far as possible. You can safely lie on the cliff edge and then extend the tripod mounted camera out over the edge of the cliff face, and point the camera straight down yielding what will look like an aerial shot. You should be able to program your camera to take a series of images with a time lapse between frames and thereby increase the probability of getting a good frame.  When you think you have finished the sequence —I would recommend starting with a five image sequence— simply retrieve the camera back to terra firma and see if you have captured a “keeper.”  The nice thing about this location is that if you aren’t happy with your results the first time, try again – the birds and rocks aren’t going anywhere soon.

    This is also a great location to practise panning technique. If you just sit and watch the birds for awhile, notice how the gannet when fishing dive bomb from great heights and plunge into the water at speed upwards of 100 km/h (60 mph).  The distance and the speed will probably make panning shots of a diving bird near impossible; however, if you observe the birds as they take off and land on Bird Rock you should notice several things: they will almost hover as they come in to land and they will usually always land facing into the wind (as do all birds).  It won’t take long until you learn the habits of the gannets, and why I think they are the most beautiful of all sea birds.

    With 20,000 nesting pairs of gannets, Cape St. Mary's is the second largest rookery in Canada. Quebec's Bonaventure Island is the largest with around 50,000 pair.

    With 20,000 nesting pairs of gannets, Cape St. Mary’s is the second largest rookery in Canada.  Quebec’s Bonaventure Island is the largest with around 50,000 pair.

    Most of your image making will be done facing a southerly direction with an unobstructed field of view to both the east and west.  Pre-dawn is my preferred time, which means leaving the Interpretation Centre about an hour before sunrise. Simply do a web search or check the St. John’s newspaper, the Evening Telegram, for sunrise times. You should also be aware that this area annually receives around 200 days of fog per year, so you will want to dress warmly with a rain shell.

    Extreme caution must be exercised as this is a natural area with no retaining or safety fences to keep an errant foot from going over a cliff edge. An inattentive moment could result in a fall that would surely be fatal, as the drop to the ocean is about 100 metres.

    Ensure you have lots of fresh batteries and more than enough media. I know from experience you are going to shoot like crazy at this most incredible seabird sanctuary.

    Post originally from: Digital Photography Tips.

    Check out our more Photography Tips at Photography Tips for Beginners, Portrait Photography Tips and Wedding Photography Tips.

    Canadian Travelogue – Newfoundland – Cape St. Mary’s


    Digital Photography School

  • How to create a reflection in Photoshop in 6 easy steps

    Creating a reflection using Photoshop is one of those things that at first glance looks really hard, but really isn’t, once you break down the steps (just light Light Painting which I covered in another two part series). In this article I’m going to demystify creating a reflection, a technique that works particularly well on images with open pavement, and HDR processed images which tend to make the pavement look wet already.

    We’re going to learn how to go from this . . .

    reflection-before

    To this!

    reflection-after-photoshop

    In less than 10 minutes!

    I recently showed one my HDR classes how to do this, and they all followed along with me step by step.  Some of them were using Elements (which works just fine, but you may find the menus and choices look slightly different), and this technique can be done using that program too, so if you use Elements, not to worry. Many of my students were also self proclaimed “Photoshop novices” and when I asked them if they thought they’d be able to this when I showed the before and after images, most said “no”!  But they all did, and we were done in less than 10 minutes. **Note that also included me going super slow to ensure each of the 12 people in the class were on the same page with me. I’m going to guess this will take less than 5 – ready GO!

    Here are the six easy steps to follow in Photoshop.  This is the super condensed version for those quick readers and skimmers.

    1. copy a section of the image
    2. paste it as a new layer
    3. flip it
    4. position it
    5. change the layer blend mode
    6. mask it

    That’s it! You want a few more details?
    Let’s dive in a little deeper into each step

    STEP ONE – COPY

    Using the marque tool (“M” is the keyboard shortcut) draw a box around an area of your image that will become the reflection (see Figure #1 below). Make sure you go edge to edge on the sides, and get enough of the image vertically. If you grab more than you need that’s fine we’ll be moving it around and masking later anyway.

    select-section

    Figure #1 make a selection

    Copy the selection as a new layer. You can do that a few ways.

    • right click on the image and from the menu that pops up choose “layer via copy” (see Figure #2 below)
    • from the edit menu choose “copy” or using the keyboard shortcut “command/control+c”  (see Figure #3 below)
    layer-via-copy2

    Figure #2 right click>Layer Via Copy

    Figure #3

    Figure #3 Copy from Edit menu

    STEP TWO – PASTE AS NEW LAYER

    If you chose the “layer via copy” method above you already have the selection pasted as a new layer. If you haven’t already done that go ahead and paste either from the Edit>Paste menu option of the keyboard shortcut “command/control+v”. You will end up with something that looks like this, Figure #4 below.

    Figure #5

    Figure #4 paste new layer

    Doesn’t look much different right? Right! Because it’s basically on top of itself.  But look at your layers, it is there on a new layer and it only grabbed part of the image. Now the magic begins!

    STEP THREE – FLIP IT

    Next from your Edit menu choose “Edit>Transform>Flip vertical” to flip this new layer upside down. You should end up with something funny looking like Figure #5 below.

    flip-layer

    Figure #5 flip vertically

    STEP FOUR – POSITION IT

    Figure #5 move tool

    Figure #6 move tool

    Next select your MOVE tool from your tool palette (see Figure #6 right – “v” is the keyboard shortcut) and grab the flipped layer and drag it down until the images start to line up where the reflection will begin. In my image I’m using the edge of the sidewalk in front of the diner. If it doesn’t line up perfectly don’t worry about it, you can mask any imperfect bits out later in step six.

    Now you want to have something that looks like Figure #7 below. The reflection is in roughly the right position. Make sure you don’t move side to side, just down, otherwise you’ll have gaps on the edges of your reflection.

    NOTE: once you’ve selected the Move Tool, you can also use the up and down arrows on your keyboard to move the layer up and down. This works great for smaller adjustments when you get it close to position.

    Figure #6

    Figure #7 position the layer

    STEP FIVE – CHANGE THE BLEND MODE

    layer-blend-modes

    Figure #8 Lighten blend modes

    From your layers panel change the layer blend mode to one of the “lighten mode”.  You will find the layers blend modes near the top of your layers panel, next to “opacity”. By default the blend mode is “normal”.

    The Lighten modes are the ones in the third section down (see Figure #8 right), they include: Lighten, Screen, Color Dodge, Linear Dodge, Lighter Color. Layer blend modes change how the selected layer interacts with the one below it (the original image). By selecting one of the options in this section it will only show areas of this layer that are lighter than the one below it, and any areas darker will not appear.  For reflections I usually choose Lighten or Screen, depends on the image. Try them all and choose the one that looks best for your image. For this example I’m using Screen mode.

    Now I have something that looks a little closer to a real reflection  (see Figure #9 below).

    Are you still with me!?  Do you have something reasonably similar?

    Figure #

    Figure #9 change the layer blend mode

    STEP SIX – MASK IT

    add-layer-mask2

    Figure #10 add a layer mask

    Okay we’re almost done and it’s looking pretty good. But in my image the neon sign in the reflection is too bright. It doesn’t look natural because reflections are usually darker than the original – so we’re going to tone it down using a mask and the gradient tool.

    First, make a layer mask by clicking on the “add layer mask” icon at the bottom of your Layers Panel (Figure #10 right). You can also do it by going to the Layers menu>Layer mask>Reveal all.

    Figure #11 gradient tool

    Figure #11 gradient tool

    colors-foreground-background

    Figure #12 foreground/background colors

    Next select the Gradient tool from your tools panel. Keyboard shortcut is “g”  but make sure you have the gradient tool and not the paint bucket.  See Figure #11 above. Hit the “d” key on your keyboard to set your foreground/background colors to default, then hit “x” to switch them. Make sure you see black as your foreground color and white as the background color (see Figure #12 right).

    Once you have your colors set to black and white, and your gradient tool selected and ready for use – make sure you are on the layer mask not the layer. You can tell because whatever is active has corner brackets around it. If you layer thumbnail is selected, just click on the white layer mask thumbnail to make it active. We need to make sure we are doing this on the mask, NOT the layer.

    How masks work is that anything in white on the mask reveals the contents of the layer.  Where ever there is black on the mask it hides that area of the layer. So we want to hide the outer edges of this layer so it fades out gradually towards the bottom of the image and looks more natural.

    With the gradient tool, by default it paints from the foreground color, to the background – fading from one to the other depending on how we create the gradient. Sometimes it takes a little experimenting to get it just right but you can always “undo” using the handy “command/control+z” shortcut on your keyboard and it goes back one step or undoes what you just applied.

    NOTE:  ”undo” is your best friend in Photoshop, if you learn no other keyboard shortcuts, memorize this one!

    So, to apply it to our reflection start with the cross hairs for the tool in the middle of your image, near the bottom.  TIP: holding the SHIFT key down will keep the gradient from applying at an angle, it will just go straight up. Click and drag the tool up (you’ll see a line drawing the gradient spread) and let go when you get near the top of your reflection. If it’s not exactly how you want it you may have to start a little more away from the bottom edge, or drag it up higher, or other variations.

    NOTE: with the gradient tool on a mask you don’t actually even need to “undo” if you just drag another one overtop it replaces the first one. But it’s still good to know how to undo!

    Here’s the image with my gradient applied to the layer mask.  Notice on the mask it goes from black to white? So it’s hiding the bottom area of this layer which is what we want. See Figure #13 below.

    Figure #13 gradient applied to mask

    Figure #13 gradient applied to the layer mask

    OPTIONAL FINISHING TOUCHES

    Now if you want to do any other masking to show or hide certain areas of the reflection just use your brush tool (“b” shortcut) at a lowered opacity (10-20%) and paint with black on the mask over areas you want to hide, and white on areas you want to show.  In this image I painted over the edges of the diner where I felt it was still a bit too bright. You can also change the opacity of your layer to adjust it that way too.

    SeeFigure #14 below for my final version. Notice my mask where I painted a little up the sides to hide those areas just a little bit more.  You could also paint away a little in the middle of the reflection where the pavement is the darkest if you wanted. That’s the neat thing about photography – it’s all subjective!

    It’s really easy to get upset or hurt feelings when someone else says something that we perceive as negative about one of our images, something we put blood, sweat and tears into, right!?   Well my personal opinion is that it is just their opinion, one person, and you don’t have to agree with them. If they have a valid, or constructive criticism YOU get to decide if you want to take it on board or, just agree to disagree and move on. Life is too short to worry about pleasing other people.

    Do photography for you!  If other people like it, then great!

    If not, oh well!  Move along and life goes on.

    Figure #14

    Figure #14

    OKAY YOUR TURN!

    So, think you can do this? Give it a try!

    Here is my image to play with, in case you don’t have one that will work.  It’s 2000 pixels wide which is plenty big enough for this test.

    Download diner image – just click on this link and save the image that opens in a new tab.

    A few trivial things FYI about this image:

    • it was taken in Rochester, NY, USA when I was in the area and visited Eastman Kodak House. If you’re ever there, do go, it’s worth the trip to see where photography took roots and grew
    • it is a 5 image HDR, tone mapped in Photomatix and finished using LR4
    • during the longest exposure of my bracketed series a kid on a skateboard, carrying a goldfish in a bag skated right through the parking lot in front of me. Why didn’t he show up? Because my exposure was 30 seconds long and if you aren’t there for more than 1/2 the time you will not appear.

    Okay, off you go and let’s see your results! 

    Cheers Darlene

     

    Post originally from: Digital Photography Tips.

    Check out our more Photography Tips at Photography Tips for Beginners, Portrait Photography Tips and Wedding Photography Tips.

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