Att välja Bitcoin Kurs 1 Bitcoin de bästa kryptosystem som finns på marknaden är en mycket viktig aspekt av handeln. Om du inte är medveten om detta kan det sluta med att du förlorar mycket pengar i det långa loppet. Om du vill göra mest vinst på kortast möjliga tid måste du göra din hemläxa väl. Här är några av de grunder som du bör känna till innan du väljer de bästa mynten att handla på marknaden med.
Bitcoin Kurs 1 Bitcoin
En av de första sakerna du måste titta efter i de bästa valutorna som finns på marknaden är deras inflationsgrad. För att förstå detta måste du först förstå vad inflation är. Inflation är helt enkelt en ökning av priserna utan att varor och tjänster minskar. Till exempel är en enårig dollar värd mycket mer om några månader, eller hur? Så om du väljer att investera i de bästa råvarorna för det här århundradet vore det klokt att hålla utkik efter de valutor som enligt prognoserna kommer att uppleva den högsta inflationen under de kommande tio åren.
Ett annat grundläggande övervägande när det gäller att investera i de bästa valutorna är deras historik när det gäller handel och gruvdrift. Man kan inte bara välja vilket gammalt system som helst att investera i idag. Det finns hundratusentals valutor som handlas på marknaden och endast ett fåtal utvalda är lönsamma. Därför är det nödvändigt att du forskar väl om de olika systemen som finns tillgängliga för att veta vilket av de tillgängliga kryptosystemen som är det bästa att investera i.
Ett av de enklaste sätten att avgöra vilken av de bästa valutorna att investera i är genom att titta på den underliggande tillgångens egenskaper. Detta kallas tillgångens egenskaper och de är kända som Ripples. Låt oss ta en titt på två exempel på de bästa valutorna att investera i under det kommande decenniet. Den första typen av tillgång är aktier. Ett index som följer värdet av olika typer av företag kallas aktier. Så om vi tittar på de tio främsta valutorna som kommer att styra aktiemarknadens värde i framtiden är det troligt att dollarn kommer att fortsätta sin uppgång eftersom värdet på aktier i USA och Europa förväntas stiga.
Den andra typen av tillgångar är guld. Det finns en stor sannolikhet för att guldpriset kommer att stiga under det kommande decenniet. Om du håller på med handel och inte har teknisk kunskap om vilken av de bästa valutorna du ska investera i bör du prova de bästa kryptovalutorna som sannolikt kommer att öka i värde under detta årtionde. Bland de möjliga valutorna att investera i Bitcoin Kurs 1 Bitcoin finns euron, den japanska yenen, den australiska dollarn, schweiziska francen, den kanadensiska dollarn och det brittiska pundet. Var och en av dessa valutor har sina egna för- och nackdelar och du bör noggrant studera dem innan du investerar i dem.
Även om det är lätt att bli lockad av de dåliga nyheterna om att investera i kryptovalutor finns det ingen dålig investering när det gäller mynt. Anledningen till detta är att de flesta investerare som är nya i den här branschen slutar med att förlora sina pengar eftersom de inte har rätt kunskap om vilka av de bästa valutorna de ska investera i. Så när du letar efter de bästa valutorna att investera i är det viktigt att du blir bekant med alla dessa. Detta beror på att endast genom att bli en registrerad användare av en onlinehandelsplats kan du få tillgång till alla de bästa kryptovalutorna som finns tillgängliga i världen idag.
Det finns många fördelar som är förknippade med att investera i de bästa kryptokurvorna, bland annat det faktum att de handlas på den globala marknaden. Därför är det lätt att handla med de bästa valutorna och du kan också förvänta dig god avkastning. Att investera i de bästa valutorna kräver dock att du lär dig hur systemet fungerar, grunderna i ekonomi och företagsledning. Om du till exempel är en investerare som är ny på att investera på altcoin-marknaden, är det bättre om du får hjälp av professionella personer som experter och handlare.
Det finns många fördelar som du kan njuta av när du investerar i de bästa valutorna i världen. En av dessa är att när du väljer de bästa kryptosurferna kan du vara säker på att värdet på din investering alltid kommer att vara stabilt. Eftersom värdet på varje mynt varierar beroende på utbud och efterfrågan är det viktigt att du investerar i de bästa valutorna och sedan handlar med dem enligt dina behov. När värdet på en valuta fluktuerar kan du alltså enkelt sälja dina tillgångar och investera i de nya.
Det bästa sättet att investera i de bästa kryptosurfarna är att se till att du är välinformerad om de olika faktorer som påverkar värdet på ett visst mynt och du har också en expert som kan lära dig hur du väljer de bästa valutorna att investera i. När du vill göra vinster från handeln med den bästa kryptosurf bör du alltså se till att du utbildar dig om marknadens ekonomi och affärsmodeller. Här är nästa intressanta blogginlägg: Information om Bitcoin.
The post Bitcoin Kurs 1 Bitcoin Erfarenheter first appeared on Hur man använder kryptovalutor på rätt sätt.
Att välja Bästa Bitcoin-plånböcker för Ios och Os kombinerat de bästa kryptosystem som finns på marknaden är en mycket viktig aspekt av handeln. Om du inte är medveten om detta kan det sluta med att du förlorar mycket pengar i det långa loppet. Om du vill göra mest vinst på kortast möjliga tid måste du göra din hemläxa väl. Här är några av de grunder som du bör känna till innan du väljer de bästa mynten att handla på marknaden med.
Bästa Bitcoin-plånböcker för Ios och Os kombinerat
En av de första sakerna du måste titta efter i de bästa valutorna som finns på marknaden är deras inflationsgrad. För att förstå detta måste du först förstå vad inflation är. Inflation är helt enkelt en ökning av priserna utan att varor och tjänster minskar. Till exempel är en enårig dollar värd mycket mer om några månader, eller hur? Så om du väljer att investera i de bästa råvarorna för det här århundradet vore det klokt att hålla utkik efter de valutor som enligt prognoserna kommer att uppleva den högsta inflationen under de kommande tio åren.
Ett annat grundläggande övervägande när det gäller att investera i de bästa valutorna är deras historik när det gäller handel och gruvdrift. Man kan inte bara välja vilket gammalt system som helst att investera i idag. Det finns hundratusentals valutor som handlas på marknaden och endast ett fåtal utvalda är lönsamma. Därför är det nödvändigt att du forskar väl om de olika systemen som finns tillgängliga för att veta vilket av de tillgängliga kryptosystemen som är det bästa att investera i.
Ett av de enklaste sätten att avgöra vilken av de bästa valutorna att investera i är genom att titta på den underliggande tillgångens egenskaper. Detta kallas tillgångens egenskaper och de är kända som Ripples. Låt oss ta en titt på två exempel på de bästa valutorna att investera i under det kommande decenniet. Den första typen av tillgång är aktier. Ett index som följer värdet av olika typer av företag kallas aktier. Så om vi tittar på de tio främsta valutorna som kommer att styra aktiemarknadens värde i framtiden är det troligt att dollarn kommer att fortsätta sin uppgång eftersom värdet på aktier i USA och Europa förväntas stiga.
Den andra typen av tillgångar är guld. Det finns en stor sannolikhet för att guldpriset kommer att stiga under det kommande decenniet. Om du håller på med handel och inte har teknisk kunskap om vilken av de bästa valutorna du ska investera i bör du prova de bästa kryptovalutorna som sannolikt kommer att öka i värde under detta årtionde. Bland de möjliga valutorna att investera i Bästa Bitcoin-plånböcker för Ios och Os kombinerat finns euron, den japanska yenen, den australiska dollarn, schweiziska francen, den kanadensiska dollarn och det brittiska pundet. Var och en av dessa valutor har sina egna för- och nackdelar och du bör noggrant studera dem innan du investerar i dem.
Även om det är lätt att bli lockad av de dåliga nyheterna om att investera i kryptovalutor finns det ingen dålig investering när det gäller mynt. Anledningen till detta är att de flesta investerare som är nya i den här branschen slutar med att förlora sina pengar eftersom de inte har rätt kunskap om vilka av de bästa valutorna de ska investera i. Så när du letar efter de bästa valutorna att investera i är det viktigt att du blir bekant med alla dessa. Detta beror på att endast genom att bli en registrerad användare av en onlinehandelsplats kan du få tillgång till alla de bästa kryptovalutorna som finns tillgängliga i världen idag.
Det finns många fördelar som är förknippade med att investera i de bästa kryptokurvorna, bland annat det faktum att de handlas på den globala marknaden. Därför är det lätt att handla med de bästa valutorna och du kan också förvänta dig god avkastning. Att investera i de bästa valutorna kräver dock att du lär dig hur systemet fungerar, grunderna i ekonomi och företagsledning. Om du till exempel är en investerare som är ny på att investera på altcoin-marknaden, är det bättre om du får hjälp av professionella personer som experter och handlare.
Det finns många fördelar som du kan njuta av när du investerar i de bästa valutorna i världen. En av dessa är att när du väljer de bästa kryptosurferna kan du vara säker på att värdet på din investering alltid kommer att vara stabilt. Eftersom värdet på varje mynt varierar beroende på utbud och efterfrågan är det viktigt att du investerar i de bästa valutorna och sedan handlar med dem enligt dina behov. När värdet på en valuta fluktuerar kan du alltså enkelt sälja dina tillgångar och investera i de nya.
Det bästa sättet att investera i de bästa kryptosurfarna är att se till att du är välinformerad om de olika faktorer som påverkar värdet på ett visst mynt och du har också en expert som kan lära dig hur du väljer de bästa valutorna att investera i. När du vill göra vinster från handeln med den bästa kryptosurf bör du alltså se till att du utbildar dig om marknadens ekonomi och affärsmodeller. Här är nästa intressanta blogginlägg: Köp Bitcoin Sverige.
The post Bästa Bitcoin-plånböcker för Ios och Os kombinerat Erfarenheter first appeared on Hur man använder kryptovalutor på rätt sätt.
The post The 10 Best Camera Phones You Can Buy in 2021 appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.
If you’re eager to dive into smartphone photography and you’re looking for the best camera phone on the market, you’ve come to the right place.
It can be difficult to decide which phone to buy when there are so many good options. In my opinion, it’s a matter of deciding which features you want to prioritize and ensuring a good balance with the rest of the specs.
For example, if you do a lot of selfies, then you’d want a phone with an excellent front camera. If you like night photography, then you should search for a phone that performs best in low-light conditions. Obviously, you’ll also need to take your budget into account.
On this list, I’ve included the best camera phones for different needs – from the best point-and-shoot camera phones to the best phones for post-processing, from the phone with the best performance overall to the best budget smartphone.
Let’s get started.
1. Samsung Galaxy S21 Ultra
When you buy a camera, you’ll want to be able to change lenses – and that’s the idea behind adding more cameras to a phone: it gives you a wider variety of focal lengths.
The Samsung Galaxy S21 Ultra has an impressive four-camera setup on the back: A wide 26mm camera with 108 MP and an f/1.8 aperture; an ultra-wide 12 MP camera with a 13mm lens and an f/2.2 aperture; a 10 MP telephoto camera with an f/2.4 aperture and 3x optical zoom; and a 10 MP telephoto camera with an f/4.9 aperture and 10x optical zoom. (The front camera is 40 MP, with a 26mm field of view and an f/2.2 aperture.)
All in all, the S21 has a fantastic camera system. As for the display, it has a high-resolution 6.8-inch (17.3 cm) screen. It supports the use of any S Pen, including future releases and options from third-party manufacturers.
While the S21 doesn’t have a microSD slot, it does come with several different storage capacity options: 128 GB and 256 GB.
2. Huawei P40 Pro
Some people are hesitant to buy Huawei phones because they don’t have Google Play services, but photographically speaking, the Huawei P40 Pro is one of the best camera phones on the market.
With the P40 Pro, the slogan “Visionary Photography” is more than a catchphrase; the phone is equipped with a Leica quad-camera, including an ultra-vision sensor that offers beautiful results in daylight and at night.
The P40 Pro features a 12 MP telephoto camera with 50x digital zoom and 5x optical zoom; a 40 MP, ultra-wide Cine Camera; a 12 MP telephoto camera with an f/3.4 aperture; and a 3D depth-sensing camera.
On the front, you’ll find a 32 MP camera with an aperture of f/2.2, plus a depth camera. As for the software perks, the P40 Pro incorporates an AI function that removes unwanted passersby from your picture.
The P40 Pro display is rounded and supports AI gesture control. You can share the screen with your laptop and download content just by touching both devices. And even with the beautiful display, it has excellent battery life.
So if you’re interested in leveling up your smartphone photography, the Huawei P40 Pro is a great pick.
3. iPhone 12 Pro Max
Apple has made a point of staying on top of smartphone photography, and the iPhone 12 Pro Max, with its amazing camera system and quality display, is further proof. It features a 6.7-inch (17 cm) edge-to-edge Super Retina XDR display protected by a ceramic shield.
The iPhone 12 Pro Max has three rear cameras, each offering 12 MP: an ultra-wide 13mm camera, a wide 26mm camera, and a 52mm telephoto camera. The front camera is 12 MP and packs TrueDepth technology (which captures 3D information and is useful for face ID).
The 12 Pro Max supports Apple ProRAW format, and it’s powered by a super-fast A14 Bionic chip. It also offers impressive battery life (so you don’t have to worry about your phone dying in the middle of a photoshoot!), and it’s water resistant up to 6 m (19.7 ft) for 30 minutes.
The iPhone 12 Pro is another excellent camera phone if you’re looking for something a little less pricey – and smaller – than the iPhone 12 Pro Max. The biggest downgrade is the camera sensor size (though the resolution remains the same).
4. Oppo Find X3 Pro
The Oppo Find X3 Pro has a 50 MP ultra-wide camera with an aperture of f/2.2. And thanks to a large sensor, you get brighter pictures with better color depth, ideal for photographs in low light. A second camera packs 50 MP and an aperture of f/1.8.
The X3 Pro also has a microlens with a 60x magnification and an aperture of f/3, as well as a 13 MP telephoto camera with 5x hybrid optical zoom and 20x digital zoom. The smartphone features one of the best night modes in photography and video.
The Oppo Find X3 Pro includes a 6.7 in (17 cm) display that covers the full color gamut and offers 10-bit color depth. Its AI Scene Enhancement reads the scene and automatically shifts tones to fit.
5. Samsung Galaxy Note 20 Ultra
The potent Samsung Galaxy Note 20 Ultra is not only great for photography, but also for photo editing. With a 6.9 in (17.5 cm) edge display and an S Pen, you can do precise photo and video editing on the go. And for detail work, you can connect your desktop or TV as a second monitor.
The Note 20 Ultra packs a 12 MP ultra-wide camera, a 108 MP wide-angle camera, and a 12 MP telephoto camera. The latter features a 5x optical zoom and a 50x digital zoom. Plus, it has a laser AF sensor to improve focusing precision and speed.
You get multiple shooting modes such as Food, Night, Hyperlapse, and some extra features like Motion Photos and AR Doodle. In the Single Take mode, you can capture a scene from different angles, formats, and styles with one touch of the shutter.
You can record 8K video and extract any frame as a 33 MP image. The front 10 MP camera has a 26mm lens and an f/2.2 aperture.
If you’re looking for a more budget-friendly option, there’s also the Galaxy Note 20. It’s slightly smaller (6.7 in/17 cm display) and the camera array is different, but the smartphone is still top-notch.
6. Sony Xperia 1 II
The Sony Xperia 1 II is an excellent smartphone for both photography and videography. For one, it uses the same technology as the Sony Alpha cameras to capture up to 20 frames per second; it also supports Real-Time Eye AF for people and animals.
Battery life is highly improved from its predecessor, so you can enjoy the 4K display without concerns. The screen has a 21:9 ratio, a feature that appeals to those who frequently stream video.
The Xperia 1 II includes three rear 12 MP cameras with different Zeiss lenses: a 24mm wide-angle lens, an ultra-wide 16mm lens, and a 70mm telephoto lens. (The front camera packs 8 MP.)
The smartphone comes with 256 MB of storage and a microSD slot for storage expansion. If you’re a creator who toggles between photography and video, the Sony Xperia 1 II is the best camera phone available.
7. Google Pixel 5
In a world where phones keep getting bigger and heavier, the Google Pixel 5 is a refreshing change of pace.
Its design might seem basic compared to its competitors, but it’s lighter and more comfortable to use while still delivering high-quality pictures. Sure, the 6 in (15.2 cm) display might be on the small side, but it comes with great battery life, plus a 90 Hz refresh rate and HDR10+ with three color profiles to choose from.
You get two cameras: a 12.2 MP wide-angle camera with an f/1.7 aperture and a 16 MP ultra-wide camera with an f/2.2 aperture. Unfortunately, the native camera app doesn’t offer Manual mode, but you can adjust the highlights and shadows using sliders. And the Pixel 5 supports HDR but is a little slow when processing it.
The front camera offers 8 MP and an f/2 aperture. In Portrait mode, you can capture subjects with beautifully blurred backgrounds (and you can also add this effect at a later time!).
8. OnePlus 8 Pro
Looking for a smartphone camera that’s both powerful and versatile? The OnePlus 8 Pro is a stellar option.
Battery life is extremely good – it can last for over a day with heavy use (and over two days with light use). Impressively, this doesn’t come at the expense of the display; it’s bright enough to be used in direct sunlight and features accurate colors. Also, the recharging time is quite fast.
The main camera has a 48 MP sensor with great dynamic range and an f/1.8 aperture. You also get an 8 MP telephoto camera, plus a 48 MP ultra-wide camera with excellent macro capabilities.
The front camera is 16 MP, and while the later-released OnePlus 8T may have more cameras, the overall performance of the OnePlus 8 Pro is better.
9. Google Pixel 4A
If you’re not ready to invest in the pricier options from this list, don’t worry – there are some good choices that are also budget-friendly, such as the Google Pixel 4A.
What makes this smartphone special? For one, while you only get a single rear camera, it’s surprisingly great. It packs 12.2 MP, and images are far better than you would expect from reading its specs. The front camera is 8 MP and uses an f/2 aperture.
The Pixel 4A has many of the features on higher-end Google phones, including Live HDR+ (which lets you preview the HDR effect before you take the picture). The display is 5.81 in (14.8 cm) and full HD for a bright picture with realistic colors.
Storage is only 128 GB and the battery life isn’t great – but at such a low price, the 4A remains appealing.
10. iPhone SE
For Apple fans after a budget smartphone, the iPhone SE is equipped with a 12 MP, 28mm rear camera and a 7 MP front camera, perfect for spur-of-the-moment shots, portraits, and more.
The SE combines the camera from the iPhone 8 with the software of the iPhone 11. As a result, you get great photographs, plus videos with image stabilization.
The iPhone SE also packs a 4.7 in (11.9 in) HD Retina screen; paired with the A13 Bionic chip, you can expect great battery life. And you still get Portrait mode, including a slider to manually control the blurred background (you also get Portrait Lighting!).
This is the most affordable iOS smartphone yet, and the quality is what you’d expect from a standard iPhone. Yes, the SE has fewer cameras and features, but it offers great value for money.
Best camera phone: conclusion
As you can see, there are many wonderful camera phone options – all of which allow you to capture professional-quality smartphone photography.
So it’s not so much about finding the best camera phone as finding the one that best fits your needs and means.
Now over to you:
Do you have any questions? Which camera phone do you like the best? Which one will you buy? Share your thoughts in the comments below!
The post The 10 Best Camera Phones You Can Buy in 2021 appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.
The post How to Take Good Pictures in Bright Sunlight: 11 Easy Tips appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.
How can you take good pictures in bright sunlight? As you may be aware, harsh lighting can lead to unwanted contrast, blown-out highlights, lens flare, and colors that look overly saturated. (If you’re shooting portraits, direct sunlight can also lead to the “squint factor.”)
So what’s a photographer to do?
It turns out there are simple methods of capturing stunning shots in bright light. You just have to choose your compositions and camera settings carefully – and at times, get a bit creative.
So to discover 11 quick and simple tips for combating problems caused by bright sunlight, read on:
1. Move into the shade
The simplest way to take beautiful images in direct sunlight?
Just move into the shade.
Obviously, this isn’t always feasible – you certainly can’t move an entire seascape! – but with some subjects, heading into the shade is quick and easy. It’s a good solution when shooting portraits, assuming you’re not tied to a particular location.
After all, sometimes the simplest solutions are best!
2. Make your own shade
For small subjects that aren’t movable – for instance, a small flower in a field – create your own shade!
You have a few different options, some more convenient than others:
Block the light with your body
Ask an assistant to stand between the flower and the light
Hold a piece of cardboard or an umbrella above the flower
Use a pop-up diffuser
Note that some of these options will be more effective depending on the direction of the light (e.g., if the bright sun is directly overhead, it’ll be tough to block it with your own body).
And a diffuser, because it softens the light rather than blocks it, will give you the most balanced, flattering results.
3. Use fill flash
One of the biggest problems with shooting in direct sunlight is the harsh shadows. For instance, portrait subjects will get unwanted shadows under the chin, flowers will get heavy shadows underneath the petals, and pets will get dark shadows under their head and body.
In general, these harsh shadows look bad, but there’s an easy solution:
Fill flash.
Simply point a flash toward the dark shadows and fire away! Make sure the flash is on a low power setting – after all, you don’t want to make the underside of your subject brighter than its top! – and experiment with different flash angles for the best results.
You also might try putting the sun behind your subject, then using the fill flash to brighten up your subject’s front. It can look really good, though watch out for lens flare.
4. Use a reflector
Want to fill in harsh shadows but don’t like using flash?
You have another easy option:
A reflector.
Reflectors are white or metallic items that bounce light back into darker areas, and they’re really easy to use. Simply point the reflector at the area you want to brighten up, then adjust it until you get some nice fill (by angling the reflector back and forth, you’ll see the reflected light change position, and you can use this “preview” to fine-tune the effect).
Note that you can also try the same tactic I mentioned in the previous section, where you position your subject in front of the sun and bounce light back onto their front. A reflector isn’t as powerful as a fill flash, so you’ll need to carefully angle it for maximum effect – but if you get it right, the results will be amazing.
5. Change your perspective
Sometimes, moving your subject into the shade isn’t possible – but moving around your subject can give the same effect.
For instance, if you’re shooting an interesting tree in the forest, you might move to the tree’s other side, you might find an interesting part of the tree that’s shrouded in shadow, or you might get low and shoot up.
The idea is to observe your subject carefully, looking for ways to maximize shade and minimize bright highlights and annoying contrast.
6. Use a lens hood
Suffering from lens flare?
While flare can be artistic, it can also be very annoying, especially if you’re after a clean, straightforward image.
Fortunately, many lenses come with hoods, which block flare-causing light and keep your photos flare-free.
If you don’t have a lens hood, don’t fret; it’s not that difficult to construct a hood out of cardboard or to use your hand to shield your lens from the sun.
(Just make sure you keep your makeshift lens hood and your hand out of the shot – otherwise, you’ll be doing a lot of cropping in post-production!)
7. Consider using a filter
Unfortunately, filters don’t offer a magical solution for bright sunlight – there’s no “avoid direct sunlight” filter, at least not currently – but filters can be handy for direct sunlight photography.
For instance, a polarizing filter will help cut down on reflections, plus it’ll help you achieve vibrant colors (including a beautiful blue sky).
And a neutral density filter will reduce the light hitting your camera sensor, allowing for slower shutter speeds and smaller apertures at midday.
(Why might that be useful? Sometimes, you’ll want to shoot with a wide aperture for the shallow depth of field effect, or you’ll want a slow shutter speed to convey motion blur.)
8. Play with your white balance settings
These days, pretty much every digital camera lets you choose between different white balance settings (for instance, you can dial in a white balance preset, such as Cloudy or Daylight, or you can set a custom white balance based on your scene).
Now, you can adjust the white balance later on in post-processing, assuming you’re shooting in RAW. But if you shoot in JPEG, or you simply prefer to get things right in-camera, you’ll want to carefully set your white balance from the start.
How is this helpful for taking good pictures in bright sunlight?
Well, white balances can offer artistic effects that enhance the look of highlights and shadows. A cooler white balance, for instance, can give a neat effect to more monochrome images – while a warm white balance will make bright sunlight appear softer and more inviting.
9. Use spot metering for the best results
Harsh sunlight makes correct metering tricky. So here’s my advice:
Use spot metering. This will force your camera to expose based on a targeted portion of your scene; you can aim at your main subject, then dial in the recommended exposure settings.
Alternatively, you can spot meter off a midtone in your shot – this will ensure the entire scene is exposed relatively well (as opposed to the former technique, which will ensure you expose for your subject).
After taking an image, check the back of your camera for a preview; you may need to adjust your technique depending on the result. Here, your histogram can be very handy, especially because it’s tough to accurately evaluate an LCD preview in bright sunlight.
Also, if you have the luxury of time, try metering off different parts of the scene while taking multiple shots – that way, you can choose the best option later on.
10. Carefully choose the time of day you shoot
Most of us don’t have the luxury of sitting around all day waiting for the perfect light.
But heading out an hour or two earlier or waiting until an hour or two later might be feasible – and if that’s manageable, I highly recommend you consider it.
You see, the time of day can dramatically impact your shot. Midday offers unpleasant, harsh light, but if you go out in the early morning or late afternoon, even direct sunlight starts to look good. You’ll lose the unwanted contrast, you’ll lose the ugly shadows, and you’ll get soft, golden light that’ll flatter your subjects.
Make sense?
11. Shoot silhouettes
As the saying goes:
If you can’t beat ’em, join ’em!
And that applies when photographing subjects in bright sunlight. If the sun is causing you problems, just use it to your advantage; make your subject stand in front of the bright light, then capture stunning silhouettes all day long.
I recommend getting down low (so that you’re shooting against the bright sky). And compose so your subject is clearly defined against the background.
How to take good pictures in bright sunlight: conclusion
Well, there you have it:
Eleven easy tips for shooting in bright sunlight.
Capturing beautiful photos in harsh light might seem difficult – but remember these tips, and your photos will turn out great!
Now over to you:
Do you struggle to shoot in bright sunlight? Do you have any tips or tricks for dealing with these issues? Share your thoughts (and images) in the comments below.
The post How to Take Good Pictures in Bright Sunlight: 11 Easy Tips appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.
The post 10 Must-Know Camera Settings for Concert Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Matthias Hombauer.
What are the best concert photography settings, and how can you use them for great results?
Settings are a key part of getting awesome concert photos, especially in low-light situations. If you get your settings right, the results will be spectacular. But if you get them wrong? Your shots will be blurry, unpleasant, and just all-around bad.
That’s why, in this article, I’m going to share 10 settings for concert photography. These are the exact camera settings I use in my own concert shooting, so you know they work. (And I promise: They’ll help you immediately boost your career!)
Let’s dive right in.
The Rolling Stones Nikon D800 | 185mm | f/4 | 1/320s | ISO 1600
1. Use Manual mode orAperture Priority
When I started off doing concert photography, I used Aperture Priority mode. I would dial in the aperture, my camera would set the shutter speed accordingly, and I’d hit the shutter button.
And in general, Aperture Priority works well. It’s great for beginners because it partially automates the exposure process, giving you one less thing to worry about.
But after shooting for a while, I recognized that only Manual mode would give me the flexibility I was after. I wanted to set the aperture, shutter speed, and ISO – and then change each setting on the fly based on my requirements.
So depending on your level of experience and comfort, pick one of these two options.
(Also, if you do choose Manual mode, make sure to frequently check your LCD preview and your histogram to ensure your exposure is correct!)
Struggling to decide which lens to use for concert photography? I always give the same advice: use fast lenses and shoot them wide open.
Set your aperture to the smallest f-number your lens allows, which will give you the biggest aperture opening. That way, the most possible light hits your sensor.
A wide aperture is especially important in low-light concert photography. If possible, shoot with an f/2.8, f/1.8, f/1.4, or f/1.2 lens.
If you’re a beginner on a budget, I’d recommend grabbing a 50mm f/1.8 lens, which is cheap, features a wide maximum aperture, and offers surprisingly nice image quality.
3. Use a fast shutter speed
Have you ever been to a concert where the artist was running and jumping from one side of the stage to the other?
This type of action makes for some great photography – but to freeze such movement, you must use a fast shutter speed.
In general, I set my shutter speed to 1/200s or faster (and depending on the level of action, you may want to push this even higher.)
Miley Cyrus Nikon D800 | 340mm | f/4.8 | 1/320s | ISO 1600
4. Boost your ISO
The higher your ISO, the less light you need for a proper exposure – and in concert photography, where light is generally limited, this is a key setting to get right.
Your camera’s ISO range likely starts at 100. But if you’re shooting a low-light concert, I’d recommend kicking this up to 1600, 3200, or even 6400. Otherwise, your shots will end up far too dark (or you’ll be forced to drop your shutter speed, which will introduce blur).
Unfortunately, a high ISO does come with a significant tradeoff:
Noise.
As you push your ISO from 400 to 800 to 1600, you start to get little flecks of color and light that look pretty bad. The specifics will depend on your camera (modern sensors do a very good job of minimizing high-ISO noise!), but you should always be cautious when boosting the ISO. Only raise it when absolutely necessary, and be mindful of your particular camera’s high-ISO capabilities.
5. Use spot metering
Spot metering limits your camera’s exposure readings to the center of the scene – which allows you to determine the exposure based on a small subject (e.g., a face). It works especially well when your subject and background are differently lit.
And when shooting concerts, the artist will often be lit by a spotlight while the rest of the stage remains dark.
So here’s what you do:
First, switch your camera to spot metering mode.
Then place the artist’s face in the middle of your viewfinder and memorize the recommended exposure settings.
Finally, if you’re using Manual mode, you can dial in the settings, then compose without worrying about fluctuating meter readings. If you’re using Aperture Priority, you’ll need to lock in the exposure; that way, you don’t end up with varied exposures as the performers jump around your viewfinder.
If you don’t like spot metering and it’s giving you bad results, you can try the matrix/evaluative metering mode. The camera will take a light reading at several points in the scene, and this can work – but you’ll want to be on the lookout for overexposed faces, especially when the background is dark.
Did you know that different autofocus points feature different levels of accuracy?
It’s true. Peripheral autofocus points tend to work fine in good light, but the performance weakens as the light drops.
Whereas the center autofocus point remains effective in both good light and bad.
That’s why I recommend you use the central focus point in low-light situations. It’ll be the most accurate, and it’ll ensure you get the sharpest results, no matter what the artist is doing on stage.
If you don’t want the artist to sit smack-dab in the center of the frame, you’ll need to use a focus-and-recompose technique; simply push your shutter button halfway down to focus on the artist’s face – this will lock focus – then adjust your composition until you get the desired framing. Once you’ve nailed both focus and composition, press the shutter button the rest of the way.
Note: To use this focus-and-recompose technique, you’ll need to set your camera to One-Shot AF, also known as AF-S. Otherwise, the camera will focus continuously while you reframe your picture.
(You can also set up back-button focus, which many shooters – myself included! – love. With back-button AF, you use a button on the rear of your camera to lock focus, then use the shutter button to take the shot.)
7. Use Auto White Balance
White balance combats unwanted color casts in your scene, and it’s important to use if you want good-looking photos.
However, I highly recommend you deal with white balance after taking your photos, during post-processing. So set your camera to Auto White Balance, then ignore the WB setting until you’re back at home.
You see, if you shoot in RAW, the white balance is completely flexible. Whether you determine the white balance setting at the time of capture or whether you wait until you’ve opened up Lightroom days later makes zero difference.
Except that setting the white balance during a concert is difficult to do, especially when you have different lights flashing all around the stage. So do yourself a favor and leave the white balance setting for another time.
Your camera’s burst mode setting, also referred to as continuous shooting, lets you do rapid-fire photography.
With burst mode activated, you can shoot five, ten, or even sixty frames per second, depending on your camera.
And this is hugely helpful in concert photography, for two reasons:
If you take several shots in a row, at least one of them will probably turn out sharp even if the others aren’t in focus.
Multiple photos increase your chances of nailing the perfect frame.
Now, I don’t recommend you set your camera to its high-speed continuous shooting mode and use it nonstop. You’ll run out of storage space pretty quickly, plus you’ll just end up with thousands of unnecessary photos.
But I do recommend analyzing the situation, then – when you’re ready to capture split-second action shots – turn on burst mode and use it judiciously.
Make sense?
9. Never use flash
This is a quick tip:
Don’t use flash at a concert.
For one, you’re not allowed; imagine ten photographers bursting their flashes all at the same time.
And straight flash pictures don’t look great. For good flash photography, you’ll need to position your flash off to the side of the artist (i.e., you’ll need an off-camera flash), which isn’t really feasible in a concert setting.
Here’s your final concert photography setting, and it’s a big one:
Always, always, always shoot in RAW.
If you shoot in JPEG, your camera will automatically add processing, such as contrast, saturation, and sharpness. And while it might look nice, it’ll limit your post-production freedom, so you won’t be able to further enhance your concert photos.
On the other hand, if you shoot in RAW, the camera won’t process your photo at all. That way, you can change parameters such as exposure, white balance, saturation, contrast, and clarity long after you hit the shutter button.
(In other words: If you’re careful and deliberate with your editing, you can make your photos look a lot better!)
Must-know concert photography settings: final words
Now that you’ve finished this article, you’re well-equipped to capture some stunning concert photos. And for quick reference, here are the concert settings I recommend:
Manual mode
Your lens’s widest aperture
A fast shutter speed
A high ISO
Spot metering
The middle autofocus point
Auto White Balance
Burst mode
No flash
RAW format
So the next time you’re out shooting a concert, make sure to dial in those settings. Your photos will instantly improve!
Now over to you:
Which of my recommended settings do you use for concert photography? Do you have any additional settings you love to use for concerts? Share your thoughts in the comments below!
The Prodigy Nikon D800 | 85mm | f/1.8 | 1/320s | ISO 1600
Zola Jesus Nikon D700 | 50mm | f/1.8 | 1/200s | ISO 1600
The post 10 Must-Know Camera Settings for Concert Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Matthias Hombauer.
The post The Weekly Photography Challenge – Rule of Thirds appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.
Join in our weekly photography challenge! This week your challenge theme is ‘Rule of Thirds’ – read on, have fun!
We haven’t explored the rule of thirds in over a year, and sometimes its good to get back to your roots. If you don’t know what the rule of thirds is, you can read all about it over here on THIS article on our blog.
When you post your photo, make sure you include a hashtag #dPSThirds
“The rule of thirds is a compositional guideline that breaks an image down into thirds (both horizontally and vertically) so you have nine pieces and four gridlines. According to the rule, by positioning key elements along the gridlines, you’ll end up with better compositions.” – Read the full article
Here’s my personal exploration o the rule of thirds! I got a gig as the staff photographer for one of the Red Bull Air Race series in London (Sure, my name tag had someone else’s name on, but it’s all good!) Peter Besenyei’s Edge 540 slicing the third.
Here’s a great article with a shed-load of examples for you, well worth a read and afterwards, explore what’s around you and share your own photograph that explores the ‘rule of thirds’ – that article (click!)
But how do I upload my photos?
Upload your photo into the comments field below this post (look for the little camera icon in the Disqus comments section below this post) and they’ll get embedded for us all to see. Or, if you’d prefer, upload them to your favourite photo-sharing site and leave the link to them.
The post The Weekly Photography Challenge – Rule of Thirds appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.
The post See the Stunning Nature TTL Photographer of the Year Winners appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.
The Nature TTL Photographer of the Year 2021 winners have been announced, featuring a mix of wildlife, landscape, and macro photos – all of them breathtaking.
More than 8000 images fought for the £1500 grand prize. In the end, it was Thomas Vijayan’s gripping photo, entitled “The World Is Going Upside Down,” that won the judges’ hearts and secured Vijayan the Nature TTL Photographer of the Year title:
Vijayan explained, “After spending a few days in Borneo, I got this frame stuck in my mind. To get this shot, I selected a tree that was in the water, so that I could get a good reflection of the sky and its leaves on the tree. The water formed a mirror, making the image look upside-down. Then I climbed up on the tree and waited for hours. This is a regular path for the orangutans to use, so patience would surely pay off.”
Vijayan’s image stands out thanks to its surreal composition, astonishing perspective, and intense intimacy. And it is in good company: in addition to the grand prize, judges awarded prizes in nine different categories to an astounding group of images, some of which are displayed below.
If you love nature photography or you’re after some powerful nature photography inspiration, then I recommend you check out the winning photos below. And to see additional winning images or to learn more about the Nature TTL Photographer of the Year competition, head over to the Nature TTL website.
The post 13 Abstract Landscape Photography Tips for Mesmerizing Images appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Rick Ohnsman.
Abstract landscape photography is all about expanding your vision as a landscape photographer. Anyone can go to a pretty place, aim their camera, and click the shutter. To be great, you need to be able to see differently, to look deeper, see what others might miss, and come up with your own interpretation.
Anytime I write about abstract photography, I like to include the quote from the famous photographer Minor White:
“One should not only photograph things for what they are but for what else they are.”
– Minor White
The shot at left is a pleasant landscape image. Zooming tighter, it becomes more abstract. Getting in really tight, it starts to become an abstract landscape photograph. See things for “what else they are.”
Often as landscape photographers, we want to make an image of a scene, perhaps a lake surrounded by trees with mountains in the background. But when doing abstract landscape photography, the idea is to go beyond the obvious, looking for components within the scene, details that catch your eye.
Maybe it’s the texture of the bark on a tree, the colors in water ripples on the lake, or the curving lines of the hazy mountains in the background.
What is it? That’s not really the question when making abstract landscape photos. These are the bacterial mats that live in the geothermal waters of the Grand Prismatic Hot Spring in Yellowstone National Park. They make great abstract landscape photo subjects.
It’s not unusual for people observing an abstract photo to ask, “What is it?” They are seeking to identify the subject of your shot. But you must get past that.
You are not trying to make a photograph of the scene or a “thing” here. Abstract landscape photography is more about the look, the feel, the emotion an image conveys and less about what the subject might be. So how do you do it? How do you get great results? Let’s look at thirteen tips, a baker’s dozen, to get you started:
1. Look for details
Look within your scene for things that catch your eye. Pay attention to details, colors, textures, and patterns.
Plan on taking a little more time to study your scene, dissecting it. Abstract landscape photography is not a one-and-done snapshot style of shooting. Slow down, relax, study, and contemplate before you put your eye to the camera. Have a zen moment and feel the scene.
Then make your shot and study the LCD preview. What might you do to improve it? Make another shot. Be purposeful and deliberate. You will find this deeper approach to photography can greatly improve your work.
Look for the details within your landscape scene. Here, the colorful lichens on the rocks make nice abstract landscape images.
2. Use the right lens
Often, landscape photography is done with a wide-angle lens to take in as much of the scene as possible.
But with abstract landscape photography, you’ll be picking out little pieces of the scene. Yes, you can crop into interesting sections of a larger image to create abstract images from the master shot. I do that when I see something later in editing.
But anytime you crop an image, you lose quality, reducing the pixel dimensions of the image. Better to crop in-camera by composing your shot while shooting. It’s also better to learn to see the abstract image from the beginning rather than later as an afterthought.
Watch and nature may present you with an interesting abstract photo op, like this pattern formed by the waves on the sand of an Oregon beach.
So what lens should you use for abstract landscape photos?
You might try a longer focal length lens to capture the rock pattern on a distant mountain, or perhaps a macro lens to study the colorful lichen on a rock within your scene. A zoom lens can help you hone in on a portion of your scene when you’re looking to create an abstract shot, but don’t forget the “sneaker zoom” – zoom with your feet by simply walking closer to your subject.
A mobile phone camera also works fine for making abstract landscape images; it allows you to get very close to your subjects while retaining great depth of field.
3. Look for the play of light
Good photographers are students of light, observing how light and shadow play across objects to reveal texture and create interesting looks. Sometimes, just the light and shadow on a subject can be the subject of a photo all on its own!
Look for how the light plays across your subject. These fantastic natural abstract sculptures are carved in the basalt rock of the Black Magic Canyon in Idaho, a paradise for abstract landscape photography.
So take the time to look at your scene and see if there are sections you can isolate to create a photo that is uniquely yours.
Color or black and white? Either can be effective with abstract landscape photography. These are more detail shots from Black Magic Canyon.
4. Consider line, shape, form, tone, and texture
In previous articles, I’ve referred to these five characteristics as the “bones” of a good photograph. Here’s just a brief definition of each:
Line: The one-dimensional path between two points. It can be straight or curved. Lines lead the eye through an image.
Shape: A two-dimensional outline of an object in a photo. Photography creates a two-dimensional representation of a three-dimensional world and so all objects in a photograph are shapes. We must create the illusion of depth through other means.
Form: The simulated three dimensions in a photograph created by other factors. A cube photographed from just one side will have the shape of a square, but when photographed at an angle, then line, tone, and texture will create the illusion of three dimensions (i.e., form).
Tone: The range of brightness levels from white to black in a photograph.
Texture: The simulated look of the smoothness, roughness, reflectivity, depth, and feel of an object created by light playing over the object.
Line, shape, form, tone, and texture – the “bones” of a good abstract landscape photograph.
Understanding the “bones” of a good photo can help you make interesting photos in general and better abstract landscape photos in particular.
Can you “feel” the texture of the wood in these shots?
5. Photograph water
After making the image of the lake scene, I zoomed in to catch the beautiful “watercolors.”
The unique properties of water – its reflectivity, motion, transparency, translucence, and fluidity – make it a great subject for abstract landscape photographs. Water can even take on a texture of sorts, thanks to the dynamic motion of rushing water and the smooth-as-glass look of static water.
In fact, you could do nothing but water photographs and have more subject matter than you could photograph in a lifetime! I’ve written an article on doing abstract watercolor photography; take a look for more good ideas.
The sand, the surf, and the reflections of the colors in the sky can make for wonderful abstract landscape photographs.
When things turn cold, switch from abstract water images to snow and ice.
6. Focus on textures
We’ve already touched on using texture as a subject in abstract landscape photography. For instance, you can capture abstracts of rocks, wood, and patterns in the landscape – and just like the “watercolors” described above, the images that can be made from texture are infinite.
When capturing images with texture as the main subject, pay attention to the quality of light and its direction. Light coming from behind the photographer to hit the front of the subject tends to minimize texture, whereas cross light (i.e., light coming from the side) helps to maximize it.
Sometimes, abstract landscape photographs will be right at your feet. Don’t forget to look down!
7. Try some shoot-throughs
I use the term “shoot-through” to describe photos with materials or objects between the camera and the subject.
These objects could be transparent or translucent materials, such as a rain-streaked window or ice. Shoot-throughs can also use out-of-focus objects in the foreground that frame or change the look of the subject beyond.
For instance, you can shoot through an out-of-focus clump of grass while focusing on a subject in the distance. However you do it, shooting through something can add an interesting abstract feel to your photos!
Natural or human-made, keep your eyes open for abstract image opportunities!
8. Use slower shutter speeds and intentional camera movement
A photograph captures a sliver of time, freezing a moment. Shoot with a fast shutter speed and that sliver is small, freezing the motion of objects.
But use a slower shutter speed, and moving objects start to blur and streak, as you capture a lengthier slice of time:
Slow down your shutter speed and water becomes a great subject for abstract landscape photography.
Slow shutter speeds combined with moving objects can create abstract images that are unlike anything the eye can see. Moving water can be blurred to create silky waterfalls, and with even longer shutter speeds, ocean waves can be rendered as a blurry fog.
Another fun technique: You can move the camera during a long exposure to blur the image. This is known as intentional camera movement, and it’s definitely a technique worth exploring.
Combine a slower shutter speed with intentional camera movement, and you get a special kind of abstract landscape photo. The top shot is a top-to-bottom tilt, and the lower shot is a left-to-right pan.
9. Use focus stacking to improve sharpness
The optics of lenses limit what can be rendered sharply in a single image. We call the extent of the in-focus area in an image its depth of field. How to control the depth of field in a photograph with lens selection, focal length, proximity to the subject, and aperture is something that all photographers should learn.
Depth of field in an abstract landscape photograph can also vary depending on the photographer’s intent. Do you purposely want some things rendered out of focus in your image? Perhaps you want to creatively use bokeh artifacts. However, if you want everything tack-sharp from front to back in a photo, you may need to capture more than one shot in a process known as focus stacking.
Focus stacking using multiple shots focused from near to far was necessary to get this kind of depth of field.
Learning the techniques of focus-stacking can be useful in many genres of photography, abstract landscape photography included. Take a look at the abstract photo above of the trees in a tree farm where everything is sharp. Such depth of field in a single image would be practically impossible, but – thanks to focus stacking – it became relatively simple.
It’s not about the forest or the trees, but more about the repeating patterns of the vertical trunks, the texture of the bark, and the shadows in the snow. Abstract landscape photos don’t have to be unidentifiable.
10. Find fresh perspectives
Good photographers seek to show things in a way we don’t usually see them, and abstract photography should take this a step further. Consider it a compliment when an observer of your abstract image says, “I don’t know what it is, but I like it!”
One way to approach abstract landscape photography is to get a new and unusual angle on your subject. Get high, get low, shoot from a bird’s-eye or maybe a worm’s-eye level. Look up, look down, mix it up.
Shooting from eye-level or tripod height is boring. Dare to be different, especially if you’re walking on the abstract side of photography.
Shooting down off a pier gave the aerial perspective here, and the colors and textures of the ocean waves made for pleasant abstract landscape (or seascape?) photos.
A great way to get abstract landscape photos is from the air. Drones have brought us a whole new view of the world, one previously available only to those who could get up in an aircraft themselves.
Even if you don’t own a drone, you can still get aerial-like perspectives from mountaintops and high structures.
An aerial shot can give you a great perspective for abstract landscape photos – except this isn’t a drone or an aircraft image. Steptoe Butte in Eastern Washington rises high above the Palouse farm country, giving great views of the surrounding area.
11. Make it monochrome
Though the roots of photography are black and white, all monochrome images are abstract in that they are not the way we see the world. So consider how you can use black and white to make abstract landscape images!
A dark black sky over an almost white landscape is an abstraction, yet completely possible with a few editing tweaks. You could easily invert the colors and tones for a negative image or shoot with an infrared-converted camera. There are no rules when you walk on the abstract path, so experiment.
A black and white composition can remove distractions, focus attention, and give an abstract quality to your image.
Color?
Or black and white? Both are nice abstract landscape images, each with its own strengths. These are from the Palouse country, a paradise for abstract landscape photography.
12. Avoid scale
In most photos, particularly landscape scenes, there will be visual clues as to the size of objects. We know the relationships of smaller plants to trees and to mountains. But here’s something fun to try in abstract landscape photography: take away visual clues that would tip off the viewer as to the size of things.
A tight shot of the texture on some rocks could be taken from six inches or six miles, and the viewer might not have any point of reference. Sometimes in standard landscape photography, we might purposely include a person to lend scale to the image; in abstract landscape photography, taking away reference to scale can be the key to a great shot.
Without reference, it’s tough to judge the scale here, and that can make for an interesting abstract landscape photo. In reality, the tree growing out of the crack in this mountainside is easily 20 feet tall!
13. Use minimalism
Unlike still life, portraiture, and most studio photography, landscape photographers don’t usually get to choose what objects are in their shot. You can remove a tree digitally if you don’t like where it stands in your photo, but you certainly shouldn’t get a chainsaw and cut it down.
Instead, you must choose scenes that include what you want in the frame and leave out what you don’t.
The beach is a great place for minimalistic photography. This is minimalist, but is it also abstract? The definition can vary and perhaps it doesn’t matter.
Minimalistic photography is a whole subject unto itself, and one I believe landscape photographers should investigate. How abstract and minimalist photography intersect and differ is a topic worth exploring, as well.
Landscape photographs can be minimalistic but not abstract. Abstract landscape photos can be abstract but perhaps not minimalistic. Do the distinctions matter? Perhaps not, but both are styles that you, as a landscape photographer, would do well to try as you seek to grow your skills.
Minimalistic? Absolutely. Abstract? Maybe. Surreal? For sure. These stark trees against the featureless snow and sky of a Yellowstone snowstorm make for a dramatic shot.
Abstract landscape photography: final words
Let’s come back full circle to the Minor White quote. Abstract landscape photography is not likely to be the first thing you do as a new landscape photographer. Most people see the forest, they might see the trees, but they’re much less likely to pay attention to – or photograph – the way the light reveals the texture of the bark.
To paraphrase White, you should learn to photograph things “for what else they are.” Practicing abstract landscape photography will take you to that place and teach you a whole different way of seeing.
That, for a photographer, is an invaluable lesson.
You’ll find an endless source of abstract landscape photography subjects in rocks.
FAQs
What is abstract landscape photography?
Abstract landscape photography is where the subject of the photograph may not be readily identifiable and the focus is more on the line, shape, form, tone, texture, pattern, and/or colors in the image. It differs from what is called representational photography in that the image is less about a literal depiction of a scene and more about an artistic interpretation.
Why should landscape photographers explore abstract landscape photography?
Rather than simply see a scene for what it is, abstract landscape photography teaches the photographer to look deeper, to study the elements that make a good image, and to be creative. Doing so will expand one’s ability to see the beauty in all things and to create images that are unique.
Name some ways to get started with abstract landscape photography.
1. Look for details. 2. Experiment with focal lengths. 3. Study the light. 4. Pay attention to line, shape, form, tone, and texture. 5. Explore water, ice, and snow as photo subjects. 6. Look for and find ways to depict texture in a photo. 7. Shoot through other objects. 8. Try slow shutter effects and intentional camera movement (ICM). 9. Try focus stacking multiple images for extreme depth of field. 10. Explore various perspectives. 11. Consider monochrome, infrared, or alternative color. 12. Make images where scale is difficult to determine. 13. Consider minimalistic compositions.
What are some challenges in abstract landscape photography?
One of the biggest challenges is getting past the need to accurately portray reality. Often the first question someone may ask when seeing an abstract photograph is, “What is it?” That doesn’t matter. What does matter is how the photograph makes you feel and what it communicates. An abstract photograph is like an instrumental piece of music: it is a way to create emotion without the need for words.
The post 13 Abstract Landscape Photography Tips for Mesmerizing Images appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Rick Ohnsman.
Apple’s new AirTags are a straight-up gift for photographers. After testing one for the past couple of weeks, I’ll be hiding an AirTag in my scooter, one in my car and another one in my camera bag. Read more » Strobist
The post Rule of Thirds in Photography: The Essential Guide appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.
The rule of thirds is perhaps the most well-known “rule” of photographic composition. Use it carefully, and you’ll take some truly stunning images.
But what actually is the rule of thirds? Is it really that helpful? And when can you break the rule for a great result?
In this article, you’ll discover everything you need to know about the rule of thirds. And by the time you leave, you’ll know how to use it like a pro.
Let’s dive right in.
What is the rule of thirds?
The rule of thirds is a compositional guideline that breaks an image down into thirds (both horizontally and vertically) so you have nine pieces and four gridlines. According to the rule, by positioning key elements along the gridlines, you’ll end up with better compositions.
Here is a visualization of the rule of thirds:
And to follow the rule, simply use the gridlines to position essential compositional elements.
So when shooting a flower, you would place its stem along the right or left vertical gridline:
And when shooting a sunset, you would place the horizon line along the top or bottom horizontal gridline.
(Note that your camera may actually offer a grid overlay, which you can activate in the menu; that way, you don’t have to imagine the rule of thirds. Instead, you can see it as you look through the viewfinder!)
The rule of thirds also identifies four power points at the center of each gridline intersection:
Here, you can position points of interest, such as a head (when shooting a portrait), a flower (when shooting a still life), or the eye of a pet, as shown in the image below:
As you can see, using the rule of thirds isn’t actually complicated. That’s what makes it so powerful – it’s a simple way to improve your compositions, and it requires literally zero art training or photographic experience.
I will say right up front, though:
Rules are meant to be broken, and just because you ignore the rule of thirds doesn’t mean that your composition is uninteresting or bland or otherwise bad. Despite its name, the rule of thirds is a guideline, not a hard-and-fast rule. You can absolutely create beautiful compositions without using the rule of thirds.
Also keep in mind that it’s just one composition technique among many. There are plenty other “rules” and guidelines worth considering, such as symmetry, the rule of odds, triangular compositions, and more.
At the same time, the rule of thirds is an excellent way to get started with composition. It consistently produces great results, and even professional photographers use it all the time in their work. Plus, as a wise person once told me: if you intend to break a rule, you should always learn it first. That way, you can make sure you break it as effectively as possible.
Why is the rule of thirds useful?
Now that you know how to follow the rule of thirds, it’s important to understand why it matters and what exactly it can do for your photos.
Really, the rule of thirds is about two things:
Balance
Dynamism (movement)
First, by positioning key elements at rule of thirds intersections or gridlines, your photo becomes more balanced. Your key elements create visual interest in a third of the composition, while also balancing out the empty space in the remaining two-thirds. This looks great and feels right to the viewer.
Second, compositions that include key elements smack-dab in the center of the frame often feel very static and boring. There’s nowhere for the viewer’s eye to wander; instead, the viewer looks at the shot, sees the subject at its center, then leaves.
But the rule of thirds encourages dynamism, where the viewer sees a key element off to the side, then takes a visual journey throughout the rest of the image.
In other words:
A rule of thirds composition provides a more engaging photographic experience.
Also, the rule of thirds draws on the way humans naturally view images. Studies show that people’s eyes usually go to one of the intersection points rather than the center of the shot – so the rule of thirds works with this natural way of viewing an image.
When to use the rule (with examples)
By now, you should know that the rule of thirds is useful pretty much all of the time. As long as you have distinct compositional elements to work with, you should consider applying the rule.
For instance, in landscape photography, you can position the horizon along the top horizontal gridline:
Also note how another key compositional element – the structure on stilts – is positioned at the upper-right power point of the frame. Thanks to this, the whole shot feels balanced and dynamic.
In portrait photography, you generally want to position the subject’s body along a rule of thirds gridline:
And it’s also a good idea to place the head of your subject at one of the intersection points (and the eyes, which are a natural point of focus for a portrait). In the photo below, the tie and flower also offer a secondary area of interest, and they’re aligned with a second intersection point:
In wildlife photography, you can align the subject’s head (and eye) with a power point:
And in flower photography, subjects look great when the stem follows a rule of thirds gridline and the petals sit atop a power point:
Quick tips for working with the rule of thirds
While it’s easy to use the rule of thirds in your compositions, it may take a little time and practice for the rule to become second nature.
Try to get in the habit of asking two questions for every photo you take:
What are your points of interest (i.e., the areas of the photo that stand out and that you want to emphasize)?
Where are you intentionally placing those points?
That way, you can determine your points of interest, then you can immediately place them along a rule of thirds gridline or power point.
And your composition ends up beautifully balanced.
Make sense?
Also, if you fail to use the rule of thirds in a shot, it’s not the end of the world. After all, you can always crop your photos later on! (Just make sure to keep the gridlines in mind when editing.)
By the way, if you want to start practicing the rule of thirds immediately, you can always pull up old photos and do some test cropping. See what impact it has on your photos; you might be impressed by the results.
Breaking the rules: should you do it?
As I explained above, it is possible to break the rule of thirds and end up with beautiful photos.
In fact, sometimes you can end up with an even stronger composition by ignoring the rule. So while I encourage you to learn the rule of thirds, once it’s ingrained, experiment with breaking it.
One of my favorite times to break the rule of thirds is when photographing symmetrical subjects. If you’re photographing a succulent or flower from above, the symmetry looks even more striking when perfectly centered in the frame:
This shot of a corridor is also roughly symmetrical, which increases the composition’s intensity:
And note that an image can both break and follow the rule of thirds at the same time. For instance, while the image above is mostly symmetrical, a key element (the man playing his cello) is positioned at an intersection point.
Bottom line:
Learn the rule of thirds. Then break it. And above all, have fun!
Final words
Now that you’ve finished this article, you know all about the rule of thirds, when to use it, and when to think about breaking it.
So start practicing! And watch as your compositions improve.
The post Rule of Thirds in Photography: The Essential Guide appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.
