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  • Lightroom Super Resolution Explained (The Essential Guide)

    The post Lightroom Super Resolution Explained (The Essential Guide) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Ringsmuth.

    Lightroom super resolution explained

    One of the most exciting new Lightroom features is Super Resolution, which offers the type of image processing that previously existed only in science-fiction movies and TV shows.

    Put simply, Super Resolution quadruples the resolution of your photos and turns low-megapixel images into high-resolution works of art. You can also use Super Resolution to crop in – way in – without losing details or turning your images into a blurry mess. It’s available for Lightroom and Lightroom Classic and it’s a tool that could quickly become central to your photo-editing workflow.

    In this article, I’ll explain everything you need to know about Super Resolution, including how it works and how to use it to enlarge your images.

    So if you’re looking to improve image resolution in Lightroom, or you’re simply hoping to understand this interesting new post-processing feature, then read on!

    magnolia seed pod
    Nikon D500 | 50mm f/1.8G | f/2.4 | 1/320s | ISO 280

    What is Super Resolution in Lightroom, and how does it work?

    In the words of scientist and author Arthur C. Clarke, “Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic” – and that definitely feels like the case with Super Resolution. In reality, Super Resolution is a matter of advanced image processing and years of technological development as opposed to wands and spells, but the end result does feel a bit otherworldly.

    Super Resolution works by effectively doubling the horizontal and vertical pixels in an image while filling in the extra space with data based on algorithms and machine learning. A photo with 6000 by 4000 pixels is 24 megapixels (because 6000 x 4000=24,000,000 pixels). But when processed with Super Resolution, that same image essentially becomes 12000 by 8000, or 96,000,000 pixels.

    Yes, you read that right: Super Resolution transforms a 24-megapixel image into a whopping 96-megapixel image.

    Super Resolution works best on RAW files because there is much more data to work with, but you can also use it on JPEGs and other files such as TIFFs. It’s built on a technology Adobe introduced in Photoshop called Enhance Details, but Super Resolution goes a step further by giving you many more pixels to work with, whereas Enhance Details was a way of sharpening image details without actually quadrupling the resolution.

    cat on a fence post
    Nikon D500 | 70-200mm f/2.8G ED VR II | 200mm | f/2.8 | 1/1000s | ISO 100

    How to use Super Resolution: step by step

    One key benefit of Super Resolution is that it’s very easy to use. It’s not buried in menus or complicated toolbars, and there aren’t many parameters you can configure, so it’s difficult to mess up. And because edits are nondestructive there is zero downside to trying it, though beware that quadrupling the resolution of an image also means you’ll need a lot of storage space. For that reason, I like to use it on a case-by-case basis rather than on an entire batch of photos, but if you have access to a vast amount of disk space then you might choose differently.

    Step 1: Pick an image for enhancement

    To use Super Resolution, start by selecting an image in the Develop module. While you can use the technology on any picture, I like to choose photos that were taken with old cameras such as my 10-megapixel Nikon D200, or on photos where extreme cropping was required, and as a result, some detail was lost.

    For this example, I’m going to use a JPEG photo of a sunflower I shot with my D200 several years ago. It’s good in terms of composition and color, but the central part of the sunflower is somewhat blocky and pixelated if you look closely. Not to worry, though: Super Resolution is here to save the day!

    sunflower
    Nikon D200 | 50mm f/1.8G | f/2.4 | 1/80s | ISO 100
    This isn’t a bad image, but it starts to fall apart when viewed up close.
    Lightroom Super Resolution sunflower close crop
    A close-up view of the sunflower reveals a muddled mess in the middle.

    Step 2: Open the Super Resolution interface

    After picking an image in the Develop module, hit Photos>Enhance in the top menu bar:

    selecting the Enhance option

    Alternatively, you can right-click (or Option-click on a Mac) on the image and select Enhance from the pop-up menu. You can also use the Ctrl+Alt+I keyboard shortcut (Ctrl+Option+I on a Mac) if you prefer to keep your fingers on the keyboard.

    The Super Resolution interface is fairly straightforward:

    View an upscale preview
    The preview window on the left shows a close-up view of what the Enhanced image will look like.

    If you are using a RAW file, the Raw Details option will be checked, but this obviously does not work on JPEG files. (The note about Bayer and X-Trans files applies to Fuji RAW files, which often have strange, worm-like artifacts, especially in photos of nature like grass or trees.)

    Note that, after the process is finished, the original image file remains untouched, and a new DNG file is created of the upscaled photo. The Create Stack option shows both images in Lightroom as a single Stack, but if you want to keep the original and the Super Resolution version separate, you can leave this un-checked.

    My favorite part about using the Super Resolution process is clicking on the image preview on the left side of the window. When clicking, you see the original image; when you release the mouse button, Lightroom shows the Enhanced version. You can click and drag to view this process at various portions of the image, and you can click the magnifying glass in the corner to see the whole image instead of a close-up preview. This click-and-release process reveals the astonishing power of Super Resolution, and gives you an idea of how impressive this process really is.

    Lightroom Super Resolution Enhance dialog box
    Click and hold to see a comparison to the original image; click and drag to move view different portions of the image.

    Step 3: Add detail to the photo!

    Finally, when you are ready to create the Super Resolution image, click Enhance.

    It will take a few seconds to perform the process, and Lightroom does give you an “Estimated Time” within the Enhance dialog box. The resulting image is just what it sounds like: a high-resolution version of the original, all thanks to the magic of modern computing. Any edits you made to the original are transferred to the enhanced version, and your edits remain non-destructive so you can adjust color settings, cropping, and other parameters without worry.

    Lightroom Super Resolution sunflower close improved
    A close-up view of the sunflower, enhanced with Super Resolution. The center is much more clean and crisp thanks to the Super Resolution improvements.

    How well does Super Resolution perform?

    Any time you’re dealing with transformative technologies such as Super Resolution, it’s important to manage expectations. It’s great but not perfect, and while there are times when it makes sense to use it, there are other times when it’s best to hold off. I find that Super Resolution performs best with nature subjects: flowers, animals, landscapes, horizons, and the like. You will also get the best results if you work with RAW files and not JPEGs.

    To offer another illustration of how useful Super Resolution is and how well it performs, here is a shot I took of a prairie dog with my 10-megapixel Nikon D200. This is from the unedited RAW file, straight out of the camera:

    Lightroom Super Resolution prairie dog
    Nikon D200 | 50mm f/1.8G | f/2.8 | 1/500s | ISO 100
    This photo needs to be cropped, but that means a loss of detail. Or, rather, that any details not captured originally will be much more visible when the cropped image is enlarged.

    The original file is 3872 x 2592 pixels, so when I crop in to show just the prairie dog, the resulting image is a paltry 1900 x 1272, or 2.4 megapixels. That might be fine for Instagram, but it would look pretty bad as a 4K computer desktop background or printed and hung on a wall.

    Lightroom Super Resolution prairie dog
    Cropping the image down to just the prairie dog results in a low-resolution image with plenty of pixellated artifacts in the finer details, especially on the fur and hair on its face.

    The Enhance dialog shows just how much this image will be improved by Adobe’s special algorithms:

    Lightroom Super Resolution Enhance dialog box
    Without the Super Resolution enhancements, the fur is a pixelated mess of brown and yellow.

    The dialog box shows a preview of the Enhanced image:

    Lightroom Super Resolution Enhance dialog box
    The preview window shows the dramatic improvement that Super Resolution will have on this image. Individual hairs are now visible, and the image has a much cleaner, crisper look to it.

    The resulting image is now double the resolution on both the horizontal and vertical axes, with final pixel dimensions of 3800 x 2544. Super Resolution has transformed this into a 9.6-megapixel masterpiece, ideal for printing and framing or showing on a giant 4K monitor:

    prairie dog
    A web-sized version of the Enhanced prairie dog image. It might not look like much when viewed on a small screen, but the finished file is dramatically improved in sharpness and clarity.

    That said, there are some situations where Super Resolution doesn’t work as well as you might want, and it’s important to remember that, at the end of the day, this is math and not magic. Adobe’s algorithms do an amazing job of essentially creating pixels out of thin air where none existed before, but there are times when it’s best to leave well enough alone and stick with the original.

    The image below is a portrait I shot with my 10-megapixel Nikon D200. While it certainly includes enough detail for printing and framing, Super Resolution might help squeeze even more out of this shot, which would certainly be good for keeping clients happy.

    woman with child
    Nikon D200 | 50mm f/1.8G | f/2.8 | 1/350s | ISO 200

    Super Resolution would help this photo in a lot of ways, especially by bringing out some of the texture and details in the fabric. However, one way it would not help and could actually hurt is right where I would want it most: the eyes.

    Lightroom Super Resolution Enhance dialog box
    A close-up view of the infant’s eyes shows that there might be some room for improvement.

    The Super Resolution algorithm does a good job of clearing up the reflection of the sky in the child’s eye, but it has the opposite effect on the eyelashes. The Enhanced version looks blurrier and less sharp compared to the original:

    Lightroom Super Resolution Enhance dialog box
    The iris is improved, but the eyelashes are more blurry. Also, some of the subtle texture in the baby’s skin has disappeared.

    Lightroom Super Resolution works wonders, but Adobe can’t perform miracles and it won’t automatically improve every single image. Even so, I am thoroughly impressed by what the technology can do and I highly recommend trying it to see the results for yourself.

    Downsides to using Super Resolution

    As with most things in life, Super Resolution comes with some tradeoffs. So before you rush out and convert your entire image library, there are some caveats and drawbacks you may want to consider.

    For one, Super Resolution files are huge. Massive. Enormous. So big, in fact, that you could quickly run out of disk space if you use Super Resolution too much. For example, a 10-megapixel RAW file from my Nikon D200 clocks in at about 9 megabytes of space. Naturally, one might expect that a Super Resolution version would be four times as large, but that’s not the case at all. In fact, a Super Resolution file is over 144 megabytes—sixteen times larger than the original file! You’re going to need a lot of disk space if you use Super Resolution frequently, especially if you apply it to higher-megapixel files from modern cameras.

    Lightroom Super Resolution file size
    Super Resolution files are absolutely massive. Be prepared to buy lots of additional storage space if you use this feature a lot.

    Another drawback to Super Resolution is the time it takes to render, especially when working with a batch of files. Lightroom will need anywhere from 10-20 seconds per image to perform the enhancement algorithm, and that time can really add up. It might not seem like much, but three images will add one minute to your workflow. Ten images could easily add five minutes, depending on the size of the originals are and how fast your computer is. This added time is not necessarily a deal-breaker, but it is something to keep in mind.

    Finally, Super Resolution cannot fix an out-of-focus image. Yes, it will make an already-sharp image look even better, but it cannot create sharpness where there was none to begin with. If you are expecting Super Resolution to save the day when you don’t nail the focus, you will be sorely disappointed.

    black eyed susan flower
    Nikon D500 | 50mm f/1.8G | f/2.8 | 1/350s | ISO 100
    Super Resolution, as King Theoden of Rohan might say, has no power here. This out-of-focus photo is destined for the digital dustbin.

    When should you use Super Resolution?

    Despite the drawbacks, there are two key areas where Super Resolution absolutely shines and I can strongly recommend using it: for extreme cropping and low-megapixel originals.

    If you like to crop your images, either to focus attention on one key area or simply because your lens wasn’t zoomed in close enough, Super Resolution can work wonders. It can bring out detail in key portions of your photos and transform images from rejects to portfolio shots.

    squirrel on a trunck
    Nikon D750 | 50mm f/1.8G | f/1.8 | 1/500s | ISO 100
    I couldn’t get any closer to this squirrel for a better photo, so I had to do some really intense cropping – which resulted in a pixelated furry friend.
    squirrel eating food
    The cropped version is a muddy mess, especially in the tail. Even with a 24-megapixel RAW file, this much cropping generally is not a good idea.
    Squirrel eating food
    Super Resolution saved the day! There’s a huge improvement in the tail and in the fur between the squirrel’s eyes. Take note, though: this Super Resolution file is nearly 300 megabytes.

    Super Resolution is also a fun way to bring new life to old low-resolution images, provided they are sharp and not out of focus. I enjoy going back to my early digital photos that I shot with 3-megapixel pocket cameras and applying Super Resolution to see if I can extract details or create crisper images for printing. You might be surprised at how well this works for your old digital pictures, too.

    Lightroom Super Resolution explained: final words

    Super Resolution is one of the most exciting new Lightroom features in a long time. Adobe has created a practical, easy-to-use tool that works on almost all common image types and has the ability to dramatically improve your images.

    I find the tool especially useful in some specific circumstances, like cropping and bringing older images to life, but if you have enough spare disk space, you might find yourself using it much more. While not perfect, it goes a long way toward solving a longstanding issue with digital photos and makes me excited to see where this technology will take us in the future!

    Now over to you:

    What do you think about Lightroom Super Resolution? Will you use it? Are you impressed? Share your thoughts (and Enhanced images!) in the comments below.

    The post Lightroom Super Resolution Explained (The Essential Guide) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Ringsmuth.


    Digital Photography School

  • Software review: Nik Silver Efex Pro 3 gives the look of black and white film without the fuss

    Nik Silver Efex Pro 3
    $ 149 as part of Nik Collection 4

    A few months ago we found a lot to like in the latest iteration of the Nik Collection, a suite of eight image processing tools initially developed by Nik Software and these days owned by French software company DxO. At the time, we looked at the overall suite with a focus on what was new. For this review, though, we’d like to take a closer look at just one of the suite’s most useful components, Silver Efex Pro 3.



    Introduction

    Nik Silver Efex Pro 3 is a black-and-white conversion tool that goes far further than the grayscale or black-and-white tools built into Adobe Photoshop. It allows users to simulate the look of specific real-world film types, manually tuning their color sensitivity and grain with an incredible amount of flexibility and precision. For less experienced users, a generous selection of presets are provided to get you started with minimal effort.

    Silver Efex allows you to make a wide range of adjustments to brightness, contrast, structure and tonality, either globally or locally using control points. You can also apply color filters, reduce haze and finish your creations with toning, vignetting, borders and more.

    Even at its default ‘neutral’ setting, Silver Efex Pro’s rendering is noticeably different to that of a simple grayscale conversion in Photoshop.
    Click here for the full-sized Silver Efex image, here for Photoshop grayscale or here for full color.

    Available immediately as part of the Nik Collection 4 bundle, Silver Efex Pro 3 can function either standalone or as a plugin for Photoshop, Lightroom and other compatible apps on both Windows 8.1+ or macOS 10.14+. (And as of the recently-released Nik Collection 4 version 4.2, this includes support for Adobe Photoshop running natively on Apple M1 devices.)

    The overall Nik Collection 4 is priced at $ 149 for new customers, with upgrades available to existing customers for $ 79. That actually makes it around $ 50 less for the full suite than Silver Efex Pro 1 or 2 used to cost standalone.


    What’s New?

    Let’s take a quick look at what’s new in Silver Efex Pro 3. The biggest change is to the user interface, which has been completely redesigned with a far more modern look. Gone are the busy 3D-effect buttons, bevels and drop shadows of the Silver Efex Pro 2 UI, with the new version aiming to reduce distraction with a flatter, cleaner and more modern interface.

    Compared to that of version 2, Silver Efex Pro 3’s interface is much cleaner and more modern.

    DxO has also updated its U-Point control point technology to reduce visual clutter, significantly increase versatility and in the latest v4.2 release, bring a modest boost to performance as well. Control points can be grouped or renamed, saved for reuse in presets, and in Lightroom Classic can also be copied and pasted between images. Their individual sliders now appear in the right panel rather than directly on the image, and the luminance/chrominance values to which they respond can be tuned.

    The company has also borrowed two features from its other apps to further extend Silver Efex Pro. It now boasts both the haze-busting ClearView slider from DxO PhotoLab, as well as the ability to add one of 39 black and white film grain types from DxO FilmPack. Both of these additions can only be applied globally, rather than via U-Point controls.


    User interface and controls

    Just like the other apps in the Nik Collection, Silver Efex Pro 3 can be used completely standalone and without the need for third-party applications.

    Works standalone but it’s best used as a plugin

    As a standalone app, Silver Efex can only open images in JPEG or TIFF formats, which rather limits its utility. Since it doesn’t support Raw files standalone, many photographers will instead want to pair it with other apps.

    Standalone mode is very similar to plugin mode but without the bottom-of-screen status bar you’d use to apply changes as a plugin. Instead, you must use save command in the file menu.

    As well as DxO’s own PhotoLab series, it can officially be used only with Adobe Photoshop and Photoshop Elements 2020+, Lightroom Classic 2019+, Affinity Photo 1.8+ or, as of its v4.2 release, Capture One 21. Other applications may work to varying degrees, but aren’t officially supported.

    For example, Exposure X6 works even for Raw files, first converting them to TIFF format, but functions as if Silver Efex had been opened standalone. You aren’t shown the status bar at the bottom of the screen, and instead must use the file menu to save your results. And prior to v4.2, Capture One didn’t work at all, appearing fine but failing to apply its adjustments in the final step.

    The good news is that a free 30-day unlimited trial is available, so if you’re using an application that’s not officially supported with the Nik Collection, you can try them together first to see if everything works before paying.

    A fair few presets keep things simple for beginners

    The quickest way to get results from Silver Efex Pro 3 is to use one of its presets, of which there are a reasonably generous 58 in all. They’re separated somewhat haphazardly into five groups with not-so-informative names: Classic, En Vogue, Modern, Vintage and 25th Anniversary. You can also view all five groups together, filtering them to show only your favorites or the ten most recently-used presets.

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    The presets are all shown atop the left-hand pane, along with your editing history for the current image. For each preset you’re shown a small preview based upon the image you’re currently editing. These are rendered very quickly, making it easy to simply scroll through the list and find the look you’re after, or a preset that will make a good jumping off point for your own creation.

    You can’t permanently modify the 58 base presets, but you can create new custom presets which can be exported and imported to allow sharing with other photographers or across multiple workstations. Your custom and imported presets are each grouped separately from the base presets, so there’s no way to quickly access favorites from all three categories or to see them all as one scrollable list.

    A vast selection of controls to tune results to your tastes

    Of course, while presets are great for beginners who want quick results, more experienced photographers will prefer to capture their own artistic vision, not simply borrow someone else’s.

    Silver Efex Pro 3’s control list is so vast that, even with just one control point active and on a 1080p display, the right pane is still almost 3500 pixels tall. The cropped screenshots above link to the top and bottom halves of the right pane, respectively.

    Thankfully, Silver Efex Pro 3 offers a huge amount of control over your images courtesy of a whopping 50+ controls in its right-hand pane. And that’s just counting the controls which affect the entire image globally. If you add one or more of DxO’s U-Point control points to the image, you’ll unlock another dozen-plus sliders per point or group of points.

    Not only global adjustments, but local ones too

    Each control point you add to the image is indicated with a small donut-shaped mark at its center, and while it is selected, an outer circle appears showing the extent beyond which the effect will gradually be feathered away to nothing. This outer limit can be resized to cover the portion of the image you need.

    For each point, there are also both luminance and chrominance sliders, and these help you to target specific areas of the image based on their brightness and color before the black and white conversion. If you dial both sliders down to zero, the control point will effectively become a graduated radial selection, instead.

    The ability to group and rename control points is very handy. In this mask view, I’ve selected the taxi’s body with one group of control points, and the road markings with another group.

    Once placed, multiple control points can be grouped together. You can also rename both individual points and groups of them, and when saving new presets you can choose whether or not control points should be included. Of course, once the preset is subsequently applied to a different image, you can adjust the point positions if they don’t quite match what’s needed from shot to shot.

    A closer look at the global controls

    The bulk of Silver Efex Pro 3’s controls are grouped under its global adjustments header, with subgroups including brightness, contrast or structure adjustment headers, as well as tonality protection.

    Click here for the full-sized Silver Efex image or here for the original color image.

    Brightness can be adjusted globally, or for the highlights, midtones and shadows. There’s also a dynamic brightness slider which tries to hold onto local contrast in the highlights and shadows will brightening or darkening the image globally.

    For contrast, you have a choice of either the basic contrast slider or a soft contrast slider which aims for a less harsh effect with more diffuse transitions. There are also sliders to amplify whites or blacks alone.

    Under the structure header, you get both the basic structure control and one for fine structure, as well as individual controls for structure in the highlight, midtone and shadow areas. And finally, the tonality protection section contains sliders to recover lost detail in just the highlight and shadow areas of the image.

    Local adjustments get a subset of these global controls

    The selective colorization slider lets you bring back a specific color range to your otherwise-black and white image using U-Point selections. Image uses Full Dynamic (Smooth) preset.
    Click here for the Silver Efex image or here for the original color image.

    Each individual control point or group of them also offers a subset of the controls from the previous section. Confusingly, they’re grouped rather differently to those for global adjustments, though. All but the dynamic brightness, soft contrast, tonality protection and high/mid/shadow/black structure sliders have equivalents for control points.

    There’s also one extra control which is specific to the control points – selective colorization. This allows you to bring some of the color back into specific parts of your otherwise black and white image, and since you can have multiple control points, you can also bring back multiple colors if you wish.

    Vanquish haze with the ClearView slider

    The ClearView filter in Silver Efex Pro is quite effective, but can’t be targeted only at specific areas of the image, so can cause overly-contrasty foregrounds if pushed too far.
    Click here for the full-sized default image, here for the ClearView image or here for full color.

    One of the new features in Silver Efex Pro 3, inherited from DxO’s flagship PhotoLab application, is its new ClearView slider. Just like its PhotoLab equivalent, it’s very effective at recovering detail and increasing contrast in hazy backgrounds and other lower-contrast areas of your image.

    I sometimes found it hard to push far enough though, simply because the areas of moderate contrast in my images would start to show too much contrast before the hazy background was fully recovered. I’d really like to see DxO allow ClearView to be paired with U-Point or some other form of localized selection in a future release to help in these situations.

    Color filtering without the physical filters

    With traditional black and white film, if you wanted to tune the response to individual colors of light you’d do so with filters attached to the front of the lens. For example, you might attach a yellow, orange or perhaps even a red filter to make a blue sky more dramatic, or a green filter to lighten foliage.

    With Silver Efex Pro, that’s all achieved post-capture with no need to fumble for physical filters, however. Red, orange, yellow, green and blue filter presets are all provided, but if you prefer you can also dial in a specific hue in one-degree increments, and you can also control the strength of the filter from 0 to 200%.

    Color filters can be simulated after the fact in Silver Efex Pro 3, so you can do things like darkening a blue sky with a yellow filter to help give the clouds more definition.
    Click here for the full-sized unfiltered image, here for the filtered image or here for full color.

    Simulate the look of real B&W film in two somewhat-contradictory ways

    Silver Efex Pro 3 now offers two different tools to simulate the look of black and white film grain. The two can be used in concert together, but the division between the two tools is unnecessarily confusing.

    Firstly, the film types tool lets you select one of 28 different film types and dial in your desired level of grain size and hardness. You can also control the film’s sensitivity in red, yellow, green, cyan, blue and violet channels, and adjust levels/curves. All of this is carried over from earlier version and is based on code from Nik Software, the original creator of the Nik Collection.

    Through the new film grain tool, DxO now also lets you simulate the look of specific, real film grains based on the same algorithms it used to create its FilmPack plugin. In all, there are 38 film grain types on offer, including almost every black and white film type from FilmPack. For each you can adjust the intensity from 0 to 200%, and the grain size from 1.0 to 10.0.

    The new film grain tool’s grain patterns have a very authentic feel, but unlike the earlier film types tool, it only handles grain simulation and forgoes any attempt to tune the film’s responsiveness to different wavelengths of light. You can, however, use both tools at once, in which case the new tool overrides only the grain pattern of the earlier one. (And you can, if you want, choose different film types in each section to, say, create a fictitious film with the light response of one film but the grain of another.)

    Full-size, no-grain-added image.

    A wide range of authentic-looking film grains are available in Silver Efex Pro 3. In order, these are 100% crops of the above image with no added grain, Fuji Neopan 1600, Kodak T-Max 3200, Ilford Delta 3200 and filtered Kodak HIE. All share the same Neutral profile and differ only in their grain selections.

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    Finish your images with toning, vignetting, burnt edges and borders

    Finally, Silver Efex provides four different categories of finishing adjustments: Toning, vignetting, burnt edges and borders. By default, these are one-click adjustments involving no more than making a selection from a list, but far more control is available if you want it.

    For toning, you can not only select a color but also control strength, hue and toning for both silver and paper, and the balance between the two. For vignetting, you can adjust the strength of the vignette (which can either darken or lighten), as well as its size, roundness and center point.

    For burnt edges, you control the size, transition softness and strength of the effect on all four edges individually. And finally, image borders allows you not only to choose one of 14 predefined border types, but also how thick the border is and how far it extends into the image. You can also adjust the roughness of the border, and provide a ‘seed’ number that the program should use when generating the random details in border textures.

    The compare tools allow you to quickly toggle between before and after views, view the image with an adjustable side-by-side or under/over split, or see both before and after images together.

    Before-and-after comparisons are quick and easy

    View controls can be found at the top of the screen, and I found the comparison controls in particular to be rather handy. The leftmost of these toggles between the results of your current settings or the default black and white conversion, and holding the P key down achieves the same thing.

    The central button splits the image in two either vertically or horizontally, and allows you to move the dividing line across the image to allow a careful before-and-after comparison anywhere within the image. And finally, the rightmost button gives you either side-by-side or under/over views of the full image.

    The histogram tool allows you to highlight which image areas are within ten different luminance levels at your current settings, even in the loupe view. Note also the history panel at screen left.

    The histogram tool is surprisingly handy, too

    One last function I found to be particularly handy was Silver Efex Pro 3’s histogram tool, which sits beneath the loupe at the top of the right pane. It not only gives you access to RGB, red, green, blue or luminance graphs of your image, but also splits it into ten different luminance ranges.

    For any of the ten, you can enable an overlaid pattern on the image, with the pattern color varying by the range selected. This makes it really easy to see which parts of the image share the same luminance, and I found it even more useful than the more-common technique of just highlighting the brightest and darkest image areas.

    Click here for the full-sized Silver Efex image or here for the original color image.

    Conclusion

    It’s been more than a decade since Silver Efex Pro’s last major update and until just this year, it hadn’t been significantly changed since the suite’s original creator, Nik Software, was sold first to Google and then DxO.

    A lot has changed in all that time, not only for Silver Efex itself but also in the imaging software market. Gone are the days when a plugin of its ilk could command the heady price of $ 200. These days you can purchase the entire eight-plugin Nik Collection for a much more reasonable $ 150, but sadly you can’t pick and choose which of those plugins you want to save even more.

    Click here for the full-sized Silver Efex image or here for the original color image.

    In its overhauled form Silver Efex Pro 3 is much easier on the eye than its predecessor, making it much easier to focus on your images. And while some of its new features sit a little awkwardly alongside earlier ones, once we got used to the differences between film types vs. film grain and global vs. local adjustment sliders, we found it to be pretty easy to use considering the level of control on offer.

    Performance, while not mindblowing, is sufficient to prevent frustration. On my 2018-vintage Dell XPS 15 9570 laptop running Windows 10 version 20H2 and Nik Collection v4.2, most sliders update within a half-second or less of being tweaked, even those using U-Point controls to limit their effect to certain area of the image. Final renders can take perhaps 20-30 seconds, which again doesn’t feel unduly slow.

    Click here for the full-sized Silver Efex image or here for the original color image.

    And it’s hard to argue with Silver Efex Pro’s results. If you’re a fan of black and white photography and are willing to put in a bit more effort than simply clicking on a preset, you can get much more authentic-looking images than you would from the black and white tools in your camera or most all-in-one apps like Photoshop.

    If you’re still using the previous release of Silver Efex Pro, its successor represents a no-brainer upgrade. As well as a nicer interface and more film grain types, you’ll also find the new ClearView tool and improved U-Point technology to be big improvements. And if you’re not already a Nik Collection user but want a solid plugin that can deliver realistically film-like black and white images, we’d definitely recommend giving the trial version a spin.

    What we like:

    • Yields convincingly film-like results
    • Presets get beginners up and running quickly
    • Making and sharing custom presets is simple
    • Both global and local adjustments
    • Loads of controls to fine-tune the look you’re after
    • ClearView tool is quite effective at correcting haze
    • New user interface is cleaner and less distracting
    • More affordable as a suite component than its predecessors were sold separately

    What we don’t:

    • Can no longer be purchased separately
    • No Raw support when used standalone
    • Presets feel rather disorganized
    • Film types vs. film grain tools are unnecessarily confusing
    • Ditto the differing global and local adjustment slider arrangements

    Who’s it for:

    More experienced photographers who want fine-grained control over their black and white creations, and who desire a convincingly film-like final result.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Real Estate Photography: The Complete Guide

    The post Real Estate Photography: The Complete Guide appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Charlie Borland.

    real estate photography a guide

    Do you want to capture beautiful, eye-catching real estate photos?

    You’ve come to the right place.

    Real estate photography might seem difficult and even high pressure, but with a little know-how, you can start creating outstanding images right away.

    I’ve spent plenty of time learning the ins and outs of real estate and house photography, and today, I’d like to pass that knowledge on to you. So if you’re ready to learn how to photograph houses like a pro, then let’s dive in, starting with:

    Real estate photography: key camera equipment

    To get started with real estate photography, you’ll need a few basic items:

    • A camera
    • A wide-angle lens
    • A tripod

    Your camera should allow you to add a cable release, a flash, different lenses, and wireless triggers. For cropped sensor cameras, a lens around 10-22mm or 12-24mm is perfect, and for full frame sensor cameras, a lens around 16-35mm will do the job.

    Tilt-shift lenses help avoid converging vertical lines such as wall edges and door frames. There are a handful of tilt-shift lenses available, but while these lenses are wonderful to use, they are fixed focal length. So if you need more flexibility, a 16-35mm zoom lens is a great alternative (or companion) to a tilt-shift lens.

    real estate interior

    This image shows diverging vertical lines, seen best by the edge of the fireplace, from using a 16-35mm lens tilted down to add foreground and minimize ceiling.

    Now, real estate shooting techniques can get pretty complex, from exposure blending, HDR, wireless flash, to light painting with multiple exposures. No matter your shooting style, the camera should not be moved (to guarantee image alignment of multiple exposures). The camera’s self-timer, a cable release, or wireless triggers help ensure no camera movement. Certain apps will also triggers the camera and provide a preview of the photo on your smartphone or tablet.

    The best lighting for exterior real estate photos

    exterior real estate photography

    The first image a potential buyer (usually) sees when reviewing properties online is an exterior photo, so you must capture a beautiful outdoor shot. A big part of this is lighting, so you’ll need to carefully choose your time of day and lighting quality.

    But what type of lighting is best for real estate photography?

    Most exterior house photography benefits from lighting early and late in the day, when the light is soft and golden. The sun direction is also important, so you’ll want to use an app such as PhotoPills to determine the sun’s progression prior to the photo shoot. In general, aim to photograph with light hitting the front of the home, like this:

    exterior real estate photography

    In winter, some south-facing homes never have the sun hitting the front of the house. In such situations, I highly recommend keeping the sun at your back, even if it means shooting the home from an angle.

    sidelit house

    If you don’t like the result you get with morning or afternoon light, you might consider shooting on an overcast day. Cloudy skies can eliminate problems with the sun’s position, but discuss it with your client first, because white skies can lessen the impact of an otherwise great exterior image.

    Also, if you’re struggling to find a good time to shoot the house during the day, you have one more option:

    The dusk/dark technique, which gets you photos like this:

    The dusk/dark technique

    Simply head to the house around sunset and choose the best angle to showcase the home, ignoring the ambient light. Turn on all the lights or even add lights to the rooms; then wait until after sunset, when the sky’s exposure balances the room lights’ exposure. That’s when you can create a beautiful, pro-level image!

    Getting started with interior photography: composition

    After you’ve shot some stunning exterior shots, you’ll need to get on with the interior real estate photos. This can be tedious, but it’s essential you approach the task with care.

    Homes come in all shapes, sizes, styles, and conditions. You want the house to look as good as possible, so I recommend you send your clients a task list for prepping the home prior to the photo session.

    Once you’ve arrived, photograph the main rooms: the living room, kitchen, dining area, master bedroom, and master bath, all of which are “must shoot” rooms. There could also be a library, office, large walk-in closet, and more. The client can often tell you what they deem important; don’t be afraid to ask.

    The master bathroom

    The master bathroom!

    Once you’ve entered a room and are preparing to take a photo, seek out the best perspective. I like to use indoor elements – furniture, windows, and room layout – to create visual flow. I generally try to avoid including a large element in the foreground that prevents the eye from flowing through the room.

    interior real estate photography

    This is the first test shot I took of this room. The foreground chair blocked the flow!

    modified composition of the interior shot above

    By rotating the chair and lowering the camera height slightly, the eye flows through the room more easily. (This image also has its vertical lines corrected.)

    Key composition tip: get the verticals rights

    In interior house photography, there is broad agreement among clients and photographers: Verticals must be correct! Most interiors feature plenty of verticals, including edges and corners of walls, door frames, and windows, and these edges need to truly be vertical. And wide-angle lenses that are not level (e.g., they’re tilted slightly upward toward the ceiling or downward toward the floor) will make vertical edges converge or diverge and no longer appear straight.

    If you use a tilt-shift lens, the problem is solved right off the bat, but not everyone likes TS lenses. So what do you do? How do you prevent converging and diverging verticals from ruining your photos?

    One common approach is to level the camera – that is, ensure it’s not tilting up or down – because a perfectly level camera will record straight verticals. While this is a simple solution, it doesn’t always make for the best compositions; a level camera at chest height can cut off foreground subjects like furniture at the bottom and leave too much ceiling at the top. Lowering the camera height will improve this problem, but how low can you go and still have an effective photo?

    interior real estate

    This image by one of my online course students; Simone Brogini, illustrates this point. His camera is chest high and is leveled to avoid diverging verticals. But the foreground furniture is cutoff and there is too much ceiling that lacks interest.

    bedroom

    Simone also shot this bedroom image the same way. It looks pretty good, but I advised him again that the camera height might be just a little too high, as the bed and furniture get only about 1/3 of the frame and the wall and windows use 2/3 of the frame.

    So what is the perfect camera height? There are many opinions. Some suggest chest height while others suggest door knob height or even lower. I prefer chest height or close, and I also correct vertical lines using other methods, like a tilt-shift lens or the Lens Correction Tool in Photoshop (or Lightroom).

    bedroom with perspective correction

    This image shows the use of the Lens Correction Tool. The bed and furniture cover 2/3 of the frame and provide a fuller view of the room, plus the verticals are straight!

    Real estate photography settings: how to get the perfect exposure

    Exposing for interior elements can be challenging, because you’re balancing bright window light with darker interiors.

    You can deal with this contrast many ways; one is to shoot when outdoor light levels are lower, such as during or after sunset, or on a cloudy day. Turning on every light inside increases the interior brightness, and if the outdoor brightness is lower, a RAW file can often capture the scene in one frame. Alternatively, you can shoot a series of bracketed images, then blend them together in post-processing.

    sitting room

    On a bright, sunny day, the room has a dark ceiling, a dark floor, window flare, and hot spots with too much contrast for one capture.

    living room

    On a overcast day, the interior exposure is quite good, as is the window exposure.

    Even in low-contrast lighting situations, I’d recommend you take a few extra shots to ensure you have all the necessary exposures for a great image. First, determine your base exposure, the image that has most of the data centered in the histogram. Then bracket in +/- one stop increments of varied exposures. You may not need these extra images, but if the dynamic range of the scene turns out to be too much, they can really save the day (i.e., you can blend them into a great final image!).

    bedroom

    Real estate photography: interior lighting

    While some real estate photographers stick to ambient lighting, just like a finely lit portrait, interiors can benefit greatly from carefully styled external lighting. Bracketing and blending can manage scene contrast, but it cannot create highlights and shadows in areas that have no directional light – for instance, if you have a dark cabinet against a dark wall, adding supplemental light can bring out the much-needed detail.

    Most interiors have two light sources: window light and interior lights. You can add continuous lights or use strobes/flashes. Personally, I recommend flashes or strobes, which provide flexibility when lighting interiors.

    Before I dive into the basics of interior lighting, I’d like to emphasize its purpose: to bring out detail, balance the overall lighting effect, prevent distracting dark spots, and emphasize the key parts of the scene. Always think in terms of what the ambient lighting conceals and what your studio lighting will reveal.

    Now, photographers shooting for architects or magazines often have plenty of time to photograph a property with finely crafted lighting techniques, but a real estate photographer’s time is usually limited, making flash the perfect tool. You can master the balancing act of using direct on-camera flash to fill in a scene, or you can bounce on-camera flash for great results.

    Feel free to take a test shot without flash, then review the image on your LCD and determine the areas that require fill light. That’s what I did for the scene below:

    kitchen real estate photography

    Here, the only light is coming from a window on the left and the ceiling fixtures, leaving dark areas in front.

    kitchen real estate photography better lighting

    Adding bounce flash, handheld just to the right of the camera, filled in those darker areas effectively.

    Also popular are multi-flash wireless set ups allowing the flash to be placed around a room for styled lighting. Oh, and you might try the light-painting approach, where areas are selectively lit across several exposures, then all exposures are blended in post-processing.

    light painting living room

    This image uses the light painting approach for a balanced, detailed result.

    By the way, you’ll need to be aware of lighting color temperatures and color balance, which can become a problem when indoor lighting (studio or otherwise) is combined with ambient outdoor lighting.

    When you have mixed light, such as daylight-colored window alongside tungsten-colored ceiling lights, plus you then throw in a fluorescent kitchen light, you’ll end up with a palette of different light colors in your image. Walls closest to windows will be blue while the walls closest to the tungsten ceiling lights will be amber and the ceiling in the kitchen will have a green tint.

    Here’s an image with mixed lighting:

    dining room

    There is a blue color cast around the window and on the floor on the left.

    So what do you do about mixed lighting? Two things:

    1. Do as much as you can to minimize mixed lighting by color-matching your studio lights to the lights in the scene.
    2. Use selective color adjustments in Lightroom, Photoshop, or another post-processing problem to neutralize the unwanted color casts after the fact.

    Here’s a corrected version of the previous image:

    color corrected dining room

    The final image shows color correction, as well as corrected verticals and the removal of window flare.

    Providing the client with the final images

    Once you have photographed the house and done the necessary post-processing, you will need to deliver the image files. Clients usually request low resolution files for the web and high resolution files for print publication.

    Be sure to save your files in the proper file format and size for the intended use. Most online listing services specify their accepted formats and acceptable sizes. I use low-resolution JPEGs and high-resolution TIFF files, then I make a final delivery of the images via Dropbox or a comparable online service.

    Real estate photography: final words

    Now that you’ve finished this article, you’re ready to rock some real estate photos! Here are a few items to remember before heading out to your first house:

    • You are not photographing for yourself; you are photographing for clients who will expect professional quality work.
    • Don’t get all the best gear; only buy what is required to do the job well.
    • Master the creative side of photography, such as angles, perspectives, and composition.
    • Master the technical side of photography, such as exposure, HDR, supplemental lighting, color matching, and exposure blending.
    • Be careful when processing real estate images; don’t misrepresent the property.

     And above all, have fun!

    exterior image real estate

    The post Real Estate Photography: The Complete Guide appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Charlie Borland.


    Digital Photography School

  • Rotolight’s new NEO, AEOS RBGWW flashes output 16.7 million colors

    Lighting manufacturer Rotolight has announced updates to its NEO and AEOS ranges of continuous/flash lighting units that add RGBWW LEDs and touch screen controls.

    The NEO 3 and AEOS 2 lights use five-color LEDs to offer a mass of cutom color options as well as a collection of 2500 pre-programmed filtration effects. Both units now have a color range of 3000-10,000 Kelvin, while the NEO 3 more than doubles its maximum output from the 1652 lux of the NEO 2 to 4541 lux. Rotolight claims this makes the NEO 3 the most powerful on-camera LED available. The AEOS 2 can manage 9230 lux – a step up from the 5750 lux of the original model.

    As well as continuous lighting both units have a flash mode, and they can use their RGBWW LED mix to flash in the same number of colors as they can put out in continuous mode. The NEO 3 can sync with shutter speeds of up to 1/8000sec, and can output a maximum burst of 10,700 lux at 1m – to deliver an exposure of f/10 at 3ft with ISO 100 according to company figures. The 17,800 lux AEOS 2 can manage f/13 with the same settings, and offers the same max sync speeds.

    The AEOS 2

    Thankfully the NEO 3 uses a rechargeable lithium ion battery, so you no longer have to fill it with AAs. It can be powered via AC as well, of course, and the AEOS 2 also offers both power options.

    Rear view of the touch screen on the NEO 3

    The units have Elinchrome’s Skyport system built-in for wireless triggering, can produce 100,000 full-power bursts per charge and boast a ‘0sec recycle time’. A new touch screen is said to make operation much easier and a new app allows control of both units and firmware updates via Wi-Fi and Bluetooth connections.

    Rotolight has also introduced a new adapter that allows users to use Bowens-mount modifers, while the AEOS 2 incorporates the SmartSoft feature from the company’s Titan models that offers adjustable diffusion, focus and spread.

    Both lights are being launched via a Kickstarter campaign, and are due to ship in March next year. The price of the NEO 3 starts at £352/$ 479 while the AEOS 2 starts at £825/$ 1119.

    Press release:

    ROTOLIGHT UNVEIL NEO 3 AND AEOS 2 LIGHTS IN EXCLUSIVE KICKSTARTER CAMPAIGN

    Award-winning British LED lighting company, Rotolight, is today announcing the next generation of its hugely popular LED lighting products: the Rotolight NEO 3 and AEOS 2. These exciting new products combine the ‘shoot what you see’ benefits of continuous light, with a world-first High-Speed Sync RGBWW flash, providing photographers and filmmakers with unlimited creative possibilities. These two ground-breaking fixtures are available now for pre-order exclusively through Rotolight’s Kickstarter campaign, which will run through until November 16th, 2021.

    Rotolight NEO 3

    A pocket-sized powerhouse, the Rotolight NEO 3 is the brightest on-camera LED light ever produced. Experience unrivalled power and industry-first innovations in a compact form factor you can take anywhere. Available as an individual light, a three-light kit and with a new, bespoke, high-performance, rechargeable lithium battery, the NEO 3 is a creative companion you can rely on.

    Rotolight AEOS 2

    Meanwhile, the Rotolight AEOS 2 offers image-makers unmatched versatility. Uniquely lightweight with an ultra-thin design, this new LED from the world’s most innovative lighting brand is the thinnest and lightest 1 x 1 panel ever made at under 1.4kg. With the Rotolight AEOS 2, it has never been easier to achieve beautiful soft light on the move.

    For the first time, both of Rotolight’s new products will allow photographers to flash in any one of 16.7 million colours or 2,500 digital filters, whilst zero recycle time ensures you’ll never miss a shot.

    New Touchscreen

    Access key features and effortlessly recall your favourite settings at a moment’s notice thanks to a new full-colour 2-inch touchscreen display. The intuitive display allows users to save precious time on any shoot with its easy-to-use interface and powerful, feature-rich menu.

    Rotolight iOS & Android App

    With an all new Rotolight iOS and Android native app, you’re always in control. Easily switch between lighting modes to remotely adjust colour, power, SFX and much more. Create custom groups and projects on up to 20 lights simultaneously; right from the palm of your hand.

    Smartsoft Box™

    Effortlessly switch from a beautiful soft output to a harder light source at a moment’s notice with the world’s first intelligent softbox designed for AEOS 2: SmartSoft Box™. Electronically adjust your light’s diffusion, focus and spread without the need for gels via the touchscreen display or Rotolight app.

    Rotolight Universal Speedring Adaptor

    A new Rotolight Universal Speedring adaptor unlocks an endless suite of Bowens-mount modifiers for the Rotolight NEO & AEOS range, making achieving great soft light easier than ever before and demonstrating Rotolight’s commitment to the brand’s loyal global user community.

    “The NEO 3 and AEOS 2 are a huge leap forward in lighting technology, and we’re extremely excited about launching on the Kickstarter platform to bring these state-of-the-art products to more people than ever before,” says Rotolight CEO, Rod Aaron Gammons. “For new users, this is a fantastic opportunity to join the Rotolight family, while for our existing customers it’s our chance to say thank you for a decade of support with an exclusive opportunity to be the first in the world to own these revolutionary products.”

    The NEO 3 and AEOS 2, are available now exclusively on Kickstarter until November 16th, and will ship from March 2022. View the early bird offers and back the campaign now at Kickstarter.


    Note/disclaimer: Remember to do your research with any crowdfunding project before backing it. Pledges to crowdfunding campaigns are not pre-orders. DPReview does not have a relationship with this, or any such campaign, and we publicize only projects that appear legitimate, and which we consider will be of genuine interest to our readers. You can read more about the safeguards Kickstarter has in place on its ‘Trust & Safety’ page.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Some of the oldest American photographs were found in a workshop in New York

    You never know where or when significant historical artifacts will turn up. Some very early photographic portraits were recently found in an unheated shed on Long Island in New York. The found photographs may be some of the very first portraits captured in the United States.

    In 1839, the daguerreotype process was introduced by its namesake, Louis Daguerre, in France. It was the first publicly available and commercially viable photographic process. Although eventually replaced by more affordable, easier processes, many daguerreotypes were made in the 1840s and 1850s. In the US, the race was on to turn Daguerre’s process into a money-making venture.

    ‘Henry Fitz Jr. (1808-1863). The ‘Profile View’ taken with the Wolcott mirror camera, January-February 1840. Housed in a heavy brass frame identified in pencil on verso “Henry Fitz Jr. of New York and Baltimore. 1808-1863.’ Image and caption credit: Hindman Auctions

    Henry Fitz Jr., Alexander Wolcott and John Johnson pulled it off. Fitz Jr. patented the first American camera and opened the first photographic portrait studio in the country. Fitz Jr. was a telescope maker in New York City. His understanding of optics gave him a significant advantage over would-be competitors.

    The trio began collaborating on their photographic venture in late 1839. In early 1840, Fitz was the subject of some of the earliest successful photographic portraits ever taken. In June of 1840, Fitz opened a portrait studio in Baltimore, Maryland, cornering the market, at least for a time.

    ‘The ‘Eyes Closed’ Portrait of Henry Fitz Jr. (NMAH Cat No. 4114A). Probably taken in JanuaryFebruary, 1840 with the Wolcott mirror camera.’ Image and caption credit: Hindman Auctions

    Some of the earliest photos taken by Fitz, Wolcott and Johnson were housed in that shed on Long Island. The photos will be going up for sale by Hindman Auctions. The auction house says, ‘The cache of daguerreotypes offered here – along with the existing Fitz group at the National Museum of American History – is the largest group of images produced by a single photographer from the pioneering era of photography in America (1839-1842). In this regard it is unique. While single images from this period exist, most are anonymous, undated and orphans floating in the historical ether. By contrast, the Fitz archive can be quite tightly dated to have been produced between about January 1840 and the fall of 1842. It was during these 36 months that photography in America sprang to existence and emerged as a commercial enterprise.’

    ‘Julia Wells Fitz (1814-1892), wife of Henry Fitz. Ninth plate daguerreotype, housed in red leather side opening case, with heavy brass mat. With delicate tinting of cheeks and lips; dress with fugitive blue tinting. Not removed from case. The identification of this image is based on the similarity between the sitter and the oil painting of Julia Wells Fitz included in this archive.’ Image and caption credit: Hindman Auctions

    The collection holds immense historical and cultural significance. While Fitz, Wolcott and Johnson were not the creators of the daguerreotype process, of course, they were at the forefront of its adoption and growth. It’s also one of the more complete collections of photographs from that time frame.

    You can read the full details about the auction listing by visiting Hindman. A digital catalog about the listing is available for viewing here. In-person bidding will begin on November 15 by appointment only.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • dPS Weekly Photo Challenge: My Street

    The post dPS Weekly Photo Challenge: My Street appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.

    Thanks to Marjorie over in our Facebook Group, this week we’re having a go at photographing our street “On the street where I live” So earlier, I grabbed my camera and headed to the top of my street and this was the first thing that caught my eye… (Someone that lives around here has done similar on many signs..)

    Use the hashtag #dPSInMyStreet if you share your photograph on social media

    Photo of a stop sign that says stop having kids
    “Stop Having Kids”

    What you choose to photograph in your street is entirely up to you, but it does have to be “on the street where you live” It can be a single image as mine is, or you can make it a triptych perhaps? (Simon, what’s a Triptych!?)

    Remember: The aim of our weekly challenge is to get you to pick up your camera and make a new photograph, rather than dig through your archives for a photo you took in 1993 (unless you can’t, and then you can share a photo from 1993, but I’d really rather you went and took a new one)

    Now we’re not necessarily looking for ‘Street Photography‘ though that can be what you shoot if you like, but just some element, or set of elements from your street.

    Side note! Don’t forget the 5 Day Deal is happening right now, if that’s your thing! But meanwhile, go and take your photograph, share it in the comments below this post, share it on Twitter, share it on Instagram, or even pop across and share it in our private Facebook group.

    Last thing before you go! If you want to suggest a topic for a weekly challenge, make sure you leave a comment on THIS POST or leave it with your photo in the comments under this post! Thanks

    The post dPS Weekly Photo Challenge: My Street appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.


    Digital Photography School

  • This Epic Bundle Offers a World-Class Photography Education for Less Than $100 (96% Off!)

    The post This Epic Bundle Offers a World-Class Photography Education for Less Than $ 100 (96% Off!) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

    5daydeal epic photography bundle (96% off)

    What’s the fastest way to improve your photography?

    There’s a quick method to enhance your photos and level up your skills, and it’s pretty simple, too: learn from the masters. In other words, discover the secrets, tricks, and techniques already developed by the best of the best, and apply them all in your own shooting.

    So how do you access these photography masters? How do you learn their secrets? That’s where online courses come in handy. These days, you can find dozens of well-taught, helpful courses, created by truly outstanding photographers from all around the world. They illustrate the most efficient composition guidelines, effective post-processing techniques, and so much more. 

    Unfortunately, online courses can be expensive. This stops plenty of photographers, especially beginners, from ever discovering the information that could instantly take their photos to the next level.

    Which is why the 5DayDeal is one of those once-in-a-blue-moon, can’t-miss-out offers that you should absolutely check out, especially if you’re serious about improving your work.

    What is the 5DayDeal?

    The 5DayDeal is a limited-time bundle, which includes literally dozens of courses from world-class photographers, along with plenty of additional photography-enhancing items (including Photoshop actions, books, and packages/software).

    Normally, the 5DayDeal resources would cost over $ 2200 USD.

    But for five days only, you can grab them for $ 89 USD, at a whopping 96% off.

    Landscape Photography Secrets by Tim Shields

    You can click here to take a closer look at the bundle. Highlights include:

    • Landscape Photography Secrets (value: $ 297), a six-class set covering essential landscape topics such as settings, composition, and post-processing, taught by acclaimed landscape photographer Tim Shields
    • Luminar AI Magic (value: $ 99), a comprehensive class that covers the ins and outs of Skylum’s popular editing software – and how to use it for jaw-dropping results
    • Simple & Intermediate Object Removal in Photoshop (value: $ 60), which will turn you into an object-removal wizard, capable of ridding your images of telephone poles, distracting people, and even unwanted cars
    • Painterly Portraits Photography Course (value: $ 227), which offers the secrets to professional-quality portraits, both in the field and in the editing room
    • Nature Love Presets (value: $ 69), a set of 18 Lightroom presets designed to offer quick and efficient yet high-quality edits

    And that’s just a small sample of the 5DayDeal items. Photographers, this bundle genuinely is the best way to level up your work; get it, take the time to go through each item, and by the time you’re done, your work will be unrecognizable.

    Plus, 10% of the profits go to charity, so it’s really a win all around.

    You can check out the 5DayDeal bundle and see all the courses, packages, and more on the 5DayDeal website.

    When does the 5DayDeal end?

    The 5DayDeal really does last for just five days, and you will never see the exact same deal ever again (the 5DayDeal creators refer to this as a “once-in-eternity sale”).

    Specifically, the deal will disappear on October 19th, 2021 (next Tuesday!) at 12 PM PST. So don’t wait; get the bundle while you still can!

    Check it out here.

    The post This Epic Bundle Offers a World-Class Photography Education for Less Than $ 100 (96% Off!) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.


    Digital Photography School

  • You can now control the RØDE Wireless Go II system with your Android, iOS device

    RØDE has made its Wireless Go II dual-channel microphone system even more capable and portable with a pair of updates. The first update is a new RØDE Central mobile app that makes it possible to fully customize and configure the wireless microphone system via a mobile device, while the second is new compatibility with the RØDE Connect desktop app, which enables you to use the system with podcasting or streaming software.

    Until now, the RØDE Wireless Go II system required a desktop computer to change various settings, including recording mode, adjusting the gain settings and other granular controls. Now, all of these features, as well as firmware updates, will be possible with Android and iOS apps thanks to the new RØDE Central Mobile app.

    The one notable function missing in the mobile app is the ability to transfer recordings directly to your mobile device from the microphones. It’s unclear if this functionality will be added at a later date, but as it stands, recordings will still need to be offloaded via the onboard USB-C port.

    In order to connect with the mobile app, RØDE Wireless Go II systems will need to be updated one final time with the desktop app to enable wireless connectivity.

    The next update is one to RØDE’s Connect desktop app, which makes it possible to record podcasts and stream audio directly from your computer. With this latest update, you can now use the Wireless Go II system to get professional-grade audio wirelessly during interviews, livestreams, podcasts and more.

    Each transmitter can be assigned to its own channel for easier independent control and other RØDE microphones can be used in conjunction with the Wireless Go II system if additional audio is required.

    The RØDE Connect update should be available for anyone who already has the app installed. If you don’t already have it installed, it can be downloaded for free on RØDE’s website.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • The Best Landscape Photography Settings: A Guide

    The post The Best Landscape Photography Settings: A Guide appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Bond.

    the best landscape photography settings a guide

    In this article, you’ll discover the best landscape photography settings to take your photos to the next level.

    Landscape photography is one of the most popular photographic genres, and it’s why many of us pick up a camera in the first place. However, determining the perfect settings for great results can be a struggle, which is where this article comes in handy.

    Below, I share plenty of settings advice. I explain how to select the perfect camera mode, shutter speed, aperture, and white balance, plus plenty more – so if you’re ready to improve your landscape photography, then read on.

    sun rising over the landscape
    Canon 5D Mark III | Canon 17-40mm f/4L | f/22 | 1/8s | ISO 100

    The best camera mode for landscape photography

    Your camera has several modes, ranging from Automatic through to Manual. These are the common modes available to you:

    • Automatic: With Auto mode, your camera chooses the aperture, ISO, and shutter speed. All you need to do is compose and take the photo.
    • Landscape: This is also a type of automatic mode, but is a step up from the standard Auto mode mentioned above. In Landscape mode, your camera knows you’re photographing a landscape, so it will choose a more standard “landscape” aperture.
    • Aperture Priority: Aperture Priority mode allows you to set your aperture and (if you wish) the ISO, while your camera selects the shutter speed. You can adjust the exposure value – to darken or lighten the photo – with your camera’s Exposure Compensation feature.
    • Shutter priority: Shutter Priority mode lets you choose a specific shutter speed while your camera picks the aperture. This can be useful for long exposure landscape images.
    • Manual: Manual mode lets you control all your settings – the aperture, shutter speed, and ISO – to get the correct exposure. This will take longer, but in landscape photography, you have the time.

    As a beginner, you maybe tempted to use the camera’s automatic features, but I highly recommend you learn your camera setting and use Manual. Your results will pretty much always be better!

    river and blue sky
    Canon 5D Mark III | Canon 17-40mm f/4L | f/8 | 1/400s | ISO 100

    The best aperture, shutter speed, and ISO for landscape photography

    The three key settings for any photographer, no matter the type of photo, are aperture, shutter speed and ISO. Together, these settings determine the final exposure of your image, which is why they’re often referred to as the exposure triangle.

    In landscape photography, you’ll want to adjust these settings very carefully. Let’s take a closer look, starting with:

    Aperture

    Aperture is arguably the most important setting in landscape photography. It controls sharpness, depth of field, and at smaller apertures can create a starburst effect.

    • Sharpness: Landscape photos are best when they’re both focused and sharp. Using the wrong aperture for your landscape can result in a softer image. You’ll want to select an ultra-sharp aperture somewhere between f/8 and f/11, but the specifics depend on the lens you have. Generally, your lens’s sharpest aperture is three stops down from its widest aperture, so feel free to use this as a guideline (though you can always do a few tests!).
    • Depth of field: When you have foreground elements close to the camera, depth of field is especially important. You’ll need a deeper depth of field to maintain sharpness across the frame, which is achieved in one of two ways: with a narrow aperture (around f/8 and beyond), or with focus stacking, where several photos are taken then merged in post-processing to produce focus throughout the photo.
    • Starburst effect: A small aperture can produce a pleasing starburst effect when you shoot toward points of light like street lights or a partially covered sun.
    beautiful sunrise landscape photography
    Canon 5D Mark III | Canon 17-40mm f/4L | f/8 | 1/100s | ISO 500

    Shutter speed

    Another very important landscape photography setting is the shutter speed. In fact, it can dramatically change the type of landscape photo you capture. Based on your shutter speed, you can create a crisp photo (fast shutter speed) or a softer, long exposure (slow shutter speed). Note that any shutter speed over half a second is considered long exposure, and you’ll need a tripod for the best results.

    The long exposure effect

    Long exposure has a transformative effect on photos when applied in the right place and at the right time. You can easily carry out long exposures at night, thanks to the lack of light; during the day, you’ll need a strong neutral density filter to achieve a long shutter speed without overexposing the image. You might choose to use a long shutter speed in any of the following scenarios:

    • Coastlines: Use at least ten second exposures to flatten the water.
    • Moving water: Use exposures of one second or higher around white water for the “silk effect”
    • Traffic light trails: Use exposures long enough to capture car light trails along the length of the road you’re photographing. Aim to keep the shutter speed over 15 seconds or so.
    • Windy days: You can capture cloud movement across the sky with exposures of 30 seconds or longer.
    • Intentional camera movement: Try moving your camera body or adjusting the focal length during a long exposure. These type of photos can last anywhere between five to thirty seconds in length.
    black and white landscape
    Canon 5D Mark III | Canon 17-40mm f/4L | f/8 | 20s | ISO 1000 | Hoya infrared filter

    ISO

    Your ISO setting will brighten your photo, but the higher the ISO, the worse the image quality.

    As a landscape photographer, you should shoot with a tripod for the best results, so in most conditions you’ll be able to use an ISO of 100 (or your camera’s base ISO setting).

    That said, there are times – especially at night – when you might want to use a higher ISO. For example, if you’re using an aperture of f/11 and you’re not getting enough light for a correct exposure even at 30 seconds, you may want to boost your ISO to get a reasonable shutter speed.

    Also, if you do astrophotography, you’ll definitely need a high ISO, assuming you want to freeze the stars (which are always moving across the sky, or at least appear to be!). Consider shooting at ISO 12600 or even more, if your camera can handle it. In fact, standard Milky Way settings are an aperture of f/2.8, an exposure of 25 or 30 seconds, plus an ISO as high as you can reasonably go.

    colorful orange and red trees in a landscape scene
    Canon 5D Mark III | Canon 17-40mm f/4L | f/16 | 1/200s | ISO 640

    The best focusing settings for landscape photography

    When it comes to landscape photography, you have two choices for the proper focusing mode:

    Autofocus or manual focus.

    In my opinion, the best results come from manual focus, though it is somewhat dependent on the equipment and the scenario. Let’s take a closer look at these two options:

    Autofocus

    With autofocus, your camera where automatically focus, though you do get the option to specify where you want your camera to focus.

    So set your camera to its single-point focus mode (where it uses a single AF point to determine the proper focus). Then compose your shot, select an object in the middle ground, and position your single focus point over that object.

    Press your shutter halfway to achieve focus, then take the shot.

    river rushing water
    Canon 5D Mark III | Canon 17-40mm f/4L | f/11 | 13s | ISO 250 | ND1000 filter

    Manual focus

    Manual focus will often given you sharper images, though it’s a little trickier. You’ll need a tripod, or at least a steady location where the camera remains still. Here’s what you do:

    1. Place your camera on a tripod and compose your shot.
    2. If your lens has image stabilization, be sure to switch it off.
    3. Set your lens to manual focus; that way, you’ll be focusing the lens with your lens focus ring.
    4. Turn on your camera’s Live View function. If you’re using a DSLR, the mirror will lock up.
    5. Use your Live View’s zoom function to zoom in on an area of your composition. Note: Don’t zoom with your lens, only with the Live View zoom.
    6. Once you have zoomed in, use the lens focus ring and focus sharply on your desired object.
    7. Zoom back out, check your composition, and take your photo.
    wheat with a city in the background
    Canon 5D Mark III | Canon 17-40mm f/4L | f/8 | 1/125s | ISO 100

    The best white balance for landscape photography

    White balance is an important setting for any photographic situation, and landscape photography is no different. You have a few choices, including a manual and an automatic option. But depending on your image file format, you can make further adjustments in post processing.

    Why does white balance need adjusting?

    When photographing during the day, you’ll likely get good results from the automatic settings on your camera. However, photographing at night with cold or warm street lights can cause the automatic option to fail, in which case you may prefer to use a semi-automatic or manual white balance option.

    Automatic white balance

    The Auto White Balance setting, or AWB for short, tells your camera to make the white balance decisions for you. It’s certainly usable during the day, and today’s cameras will give good AWB results.

    White balance presets

    Your camera will also have a number of preset white balances. These include settings like Tungsten and Fluorescent, which counteract he warm or cold light produced by the corresponding light sources. White balance presets are useful for nighttime cityscape photography, when you want to cool your image and remove the orange glow a city produces.

    Manual white balance

    The white balance can be quantified using Kelvin, a measure of temperature. Cameras generally offer a white balance Kelvin scale ranging from around 2500K to 15000K, where the lower the Kelvin number in your camera, the cooler the resulting image, and vice versa.

    To set the white balance on your camera, you can use the camera’s custom white balance setting. Aim your camera at a gray or white card, then take a photo. Then use this photo to set your camera’s custom white balance. Alternatively, use the camera’s Kelvin adjustment buttons to choose the correct setting.

    long exposure water scene
    Canon 5D Mark III | Canon 50mm f/1.2L | f/8 | 20s | ISO 100

    File type

    There are two main file types to choose from when taking photos (TIFF is another popular option but is more relevant to post processing). These are RAW and JPEG:

    JPEG

    This file type is designed to be a finished product. If you’re not interested in a lot of editing work, a JPEG might suit you. The size of file is also a lot smaller than its RAW counterpart, which can be helpful in certain situations.

    When capturing JPEGs, it’s best to get the image right in camera, because you have much less flexibility in post-processing. If you’re happy to work this way, then JPEGs are a good path.

    RAW

    The vast majority of landscape photographers photograph in RAW, also referred to as the digital negative. RAW file sizes are larger, but the ability to enhance your image in post processing is so much greater.

    Adjusting settings after the fact, like temperature, sharpness, and exposure levels, give much better results when the file was shot in RAW. You’ll also find that adjusting (and recovering) shadows and highlights will be improved.

    city at night
    Canon 5D Mark III | Canon 50mm f/1.2L | f/8 | 10s | ISO 100

    Additional landscape photography settings to know

    There are a handful of other landscape photography settings that can improve your results, including:

    Mirror lock-up

    Mirror lock-up only applies to cameras with mirrors (e.g., DSLRs). It can improve the sharpness of your photo if you’re using slow shutter speeds, because it prevents the camera mirror from causing vibrations when you hit the shutter button.

    Image stabilization

    If you’re taking a photo handheld and your lens or camera has image stabilization, it’s a good idea to turn it on. Stabilization technology counteracts camera shake, and will therefore allow you to photograph at a slower shutter speed.

    However, when your camera is on a tripod and you’re shooting at slow shutter speeds, make sure to turn off all image stabilization technology; in such cases, the image stabilizer will actually cause image blur.

    Bracketing

    If you wish to do any HDR or digital blending in post-processing, then bracketing is an important setting to get right. When your camera is set up for bracketing, it will take three photos of the same scene (you should use a tripod for this) with different exposure values, typically +1, 0 and -1. Though you can vary the exposure values, the idea is to create a dark, normal, and light image, which you can later blend together for improved dynamic range.

    long exposure beach rocks
    Canon 5D Mark III | Canon 17-40mm f/4L | f/8 | 1/3s | ISO 400

    Landscape photography settings: final words

    Landscape photography is an exciting genre, and it’s great to get out and capture those epic scenes! Now that you’ve finished this article, you should be a landscape settings expert – so get out to some great places near you and apply your new knowledge.

    Over to you:

    What settings have you been using for your landscape photos? How will your workflow change in response to this article? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

    The post The Best Landscape Photography Settings: A Guide appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Bond.


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  • How to Remove Glare in Photoshop: A Step-By-Step Guide

    The post How to Remove Glare in Photoshop: A Step-By-Step Guide appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.

    how to remove glare in Photoshop

    Are you looking to understand how to remove glare in Photoshop? While glare does have its creative uses, when it’s just distracting from the main subject, it’ll only harm your images – and that’s where this article comes in handy.

    Glare presents in many ways, so it can be removed with different techniques. Below, I’ll share the most popular methods to reduce or remove glare in Photoshop – as well as some tips to prevent it in the first place!

    Let’s get started.

    What is glare?

    Glare is when light impairs visibility. For example, if you’re driving and the sun bounces off the metallic surface of the car in front of you so you can’t see, that’s glare.

    Sometimes, glare occurs when the light reflects off a subject in the frame, such as water, glasses, or a metal object. That’s why you often encounter a glare effect when you’re photographing people wearing eyeglasses.

    glare on glasses

    Other times, glare is caused by light bouncing around inside the lens. This usually happens when you photograph toward the light source (e.g., the sun). In such cases, you’ll often hear the term “lens flare” – but from a retouching perspective, it’s really all the same thing and can be fixed with some of the techniques mentioned throughout this article.

    Glare on a photograph can be a single bright spot, a number of circles and shapes in different colors, or a light haze. Sometimes, glare can be used as a creative effect; other times, glare can ruin your picture.

    So let’s see how to remove glare in Photoshop!

    How to remove glare in Photoshop: 4 methods

    Let me start with a quick clarification: Completely removing glare from a photo is very difficult. Most of the time, you can just reduce the glare, though it all depends on the amount of detail you have to work with.

    Each photo will require a slightly different approach, so I recommend you learn all of these methods. Then, with each new image, you can apply different techniques or even combine them as needed.

    Method 1: Adobe Camera Raw

    Adobe Camera Raw is a digital darkroom where you can develop all the unprocessed data from a photograph taken in RAW format. It offers the best chance to recover glared-out detail because you still have plenty of information available from the shot.

    How to remove glare in Photoshop using ACR

    By default, if you open a RAW file in Photoshop, ACR launches automatically. Here, you can develop the picture before moving on to Photoshop. Of course, while ACR is designed for standard post-processing, there are a couple of tools that are particularly helpful when dealing with glare.

    Dehaze: Sometimes, glare presents as a glow in the overall image, like there’s a fog (haze) over the shot. Here, Dehaze is your best friend. Simply move the Dehaze slider, and watch how the contrast increases (and the glare disappears!).

    Move the Whites slider to reduce glare

    Whites: In the Basic panel, you’ll find the Whites slider. It adjusts the whitest whites in your image (also known as the white point). So by working with this slider, you can darken the brightest areas of your shot to regain some of the details.

    By the way, if you’re not working on a RAW file, you can still launch ACR from within Photoshop. Just go to Filters and choose Camera Raw Filter. This will give you access to the same tools as ACR, but keep in mind that your photo’s information will be reduced compared to an original RAW file.

    Method 2: Adjust Shadows and Highlights

    How to remove glare using shadows/highlights

    Shadows and Highlights is a tool that allows you to fix images with high contrast or restore details in overexposed and underexposed areas.

    You can find this option in the menu Edit>Adjustments>Shadows/Highlights. I recommend you duplicate the background first; that way, you keep the original image intact, plus you can mask out different areas.

    When you choose Shadows/Highlights, a pop-up window appears, which lets you control your adjustments. For further control, select Show More Options.

    Then simply move the sliders to eliminate the glare in your image. Remember to check the Preview option to see the effects of your adjustments in real-time.

    The Amount sliders control how much correction you’re applying. To remove glare, you’ll want to work on the Highlights. Of course, you’re welcome to change the Shadows as well, to decrease the contrast and make the glare less noticeable.

    The Tonal Width controls the range of tones that will be affected by your adjustments. To fix glare, set a small value in the Highlights Tonal Width to restrict the changes to the brightest parts of the image.

    The Radius changes the size of the area considered around each pixel when Photoshop considers whether it belongs to the highlights or the shadows.

    Pro tip: If you want the adjustments to be applied to the glare and nothing else, add a Layer Mask. Then, fill it with black and paint white over the glare. That way, you’ll see the original image – but the layer with the Shadows/Highlights adjustment will be visible only on top of the glare.

    Method 3: Dodge and burn

    There are different techniques for dodging and burning in Photoshop. In fact, there is a Dodge and a Burn tool, but I prefer to use layers.

    Here, I’ll show you a couple of ways to do this. You can use these dodging and burning methods on their own, but for my example image, I use both for a better result.

    How to remove glare in Photoshop using dodge and burn

    Dodging and burning with Curves

    The goal is to darken areas where glare is present, so you’ll need to do some burning.

    Add a Curves adjustment layer on top of the original photo. Pull the center of the Curve down to darken the glare. It doesn’t matter if the rest of the image becomes too dark – you’ll fix that in the next step.

    When you have sufficiently dark glare, select the Curves mask, go to Edit>Fill and choose Black. That way, the Curves adjustment will be hidden. Then grab the Brush tool, with white as the foreground color, and paint over the glare. This will reveal the burning effect in select places.

    Before/after of glare removal in Photoshop

    Dodging and burning with Soft Light

    Add a new layer on top of the original and change the blending mode to Soft Light. Now, everything you paint with white will get lighter and everything you paint with black will get darker – so paint over the glare with a black brush!

    Remember: If you make adjustments and you don’t love the results, you can reduce the opacity to make the effect less evident.

    Method 4: Clone and Heal

    How to remove glare in Photoshop using the clone tool

    If the glare completely overexposes certain pixels, leaving you without any information at all, or if you’re having a hard time matching the colors and level of luminosity, you can try the Clone Stamp and Healing tools. These take information from surrounding areas and either blend or replace the information for each given pixel.

    The Clone tool copies the information from an area that you select and pastes it on top. There’s no blending, so you need to be careful about visible borders or creating patterns.

    The Healing tools grab information from a different area and blend it with the existing information. If you use the Spot Healing Brush, Photoshop gathers the information for you, though the Healing Brush allows you to choose the source point.

    Usually, a combination of both tools gives you the best results, though it really depends on the situation.

    How to prevent glare in your photos

    Now that you’ve learned how to remove glare in Photoshop, I’d like to go back to the beginning. Because the best way to improve glare? Knowing how to avoid it right from the start.

    So here are a few quick ways to prevent glare in-camera!

    Canon camera on a tripod with a lens hood

    Use a lens hood

    You can attach a hood to the front of your lens to block the light coming in from the sides. There are plenty of great options: cylindrical and petal hoods, rigid and rubber hoods with collapsible segments, and more. The specifics don’t matter much; no matter which hood type you choose, it’ll help you prevent glare in your images.

    Position yourself in the shade

    If you don’t have a lens hood, consider adjusting your position so you can shoot from the shade. If the glare is coming from a reflection of an object in the scene, this won’t help you. However, it will prevent light from coming into the lens from an angle.

    Change your angle of view

    Don’t be afraid to move your camera from side to side or even up or down. Try different positions that won’t majorly affect the framing of your shot but will change the angle at which the light is hitting your lens. This usually helps to prevent glare!

    Use a polarizing filter

    A circular polarizing filter helps reduce or remove glare. Just attach it to the lens and turn it until you see the glare disappear. Keep in mind that you will need to adjust the camera settings to let in more light.

    How to remove glare in Photoshop: final words

    Learning how to remove glare is a useful skill – after all, even if you’re highly vigilant, it tends to find a way into your photos!

    So I hope this article was helpful, and that you can now confidently deal with glare in your own images.

    Now over to you:

    Which of these glare-removal methods do you plan to try? Do you have any tips of your own? Share them in the comments below!

    The post How to Remove Glare in Photoshop: A Step-By-Step Guide appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.


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