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  • How to Find and Use Natural Reflectors for Portraits

    Natural light is one of the simplest ways to create beautifully lit portraits, without having too much equipment or worrying about setting up extra gear. However, it limits beautiful light to certain hours of the day and for you to work in the shade. This is where finding and using natural reflectors comes into play.

    With natural light reflectors, you can photograph at any time of the day without having to carry any extra gear. It’s really easy to find and use to help give your portraits that extra boost of light.

    Natural light reflector for portraits

    Here we can see that the natural reflector is the path at the park.

    What is a natural reflector?

    A natural reflector is using already built-in or found materials to bounce light back onto your subject. This rids you of having to carry more equipment on location. 

    It also helps immensely when you are photographing your subject during not so great hours of the day, like say, noon. When the light is harsh, it makes for great big natural reflectors to bounce that light back onto your subject.

    Natural reflector for portraits

    In this portrait, the subject is in direct sunlight at midday and the pavement helped to bounce light back onto her face.

    Natural reflectors can come in many different forms, the most useful are big light-colored walls, the pavement, buildings with silver or light colored walls, white/silver cars in parking lots, mirrors, windows, even your white t-shirt. 

    They are all found naturally occurring on location and all of them bounce light back onto your subject.

    Natural light reflectors for portraits

    This family is being lit by the sidewalk as a natural reflector, bouncing light back onto their faces.

    The bigger your reflector, the more dispersed and diffused (soft) the light will be. Keep this in mind when photographing big groups or families, as you want the light to be evenly spread over all of your subjects’ faces.

    How to use a natural light reflector

    Natural reflectors are used a lot like real man-made or handheld reflectors. Position your subject in front of the natural reflector, for example, a large white wall. 

    How to Find and Use Natural Light Reflectors for Portraits

    The sidewalk directly in front of this couple is naturally reflecting light back onto their faces. The natural light reflector is large and therefore disperses light evenly on both of them.

    Parking garages make for great portrait locations, especially for headshots. Make sure to position your subject behind the edge of where the sun is hitting the pavement and the shadowed area. This will keep the lighting on your subject even while maintaining an even background as well.

    Using buildings is also a great way to reflect light on to your subject and compete with the sun, offering a different style of portraits. As light is reflected off a big silver wall, the light reflected creates more drama. Adding to the overall effect of your photographs!

    How to Find and Use Natural Light Reflectors for Portraits

    The silver paneling on the building serves as a natural reflector competing with the sun in the background.

    If you are out in a field or more of an open space, you can still find natural reflectors. Fields reflect a beautiful golden hue as does the sand on the beach when the sun is brightest.

    Natural reflectors can also add a little more drama to your photos if you use them strategically. Placing your subject away from the light can create interesting shadows. Same with reflectors below your subject. Experiment to see which types of natural reflectors work best for you.

    How to Find and Use Natural Light Reflectors for Portraits

    Here the light reflected creates a little bit of drama in the portraits of this young man.

    Best time for natural light reflectors

    The best time to use natural reflectors is anytime the sun is shining bright! 

    On cloudy days you may get some bright light, but when the sun is out, that is the best time for maximum reflection. It’s a good rule of thumb to go to the portrait location before your session and observe when is the best time and which natural reflectors will be useful.

    How to Find and Use Natural Light Reflectors for Portraits - maternity portraits in natural light

    Use natural light reflectors in both brightly lit backgrounds or in shaded areas.

    To get the most out of a natural reflector, it’s best to photograph your subject between 11 am and 2 pm so that the sun hits these natural reflectors evenly and you can move your subject around to get the best background, angle, and of course, lighting.

    How to Find and Use Natural Light Reflectors for Portraits

    Fields are great for naturally reflecting onto your subject’s face during a session.

    If you are photographing in a cityscape or urban area with a lot of buildings, the best time is a couple of hours before sunset. The sun will reflect against the windows of buildings and offer the best strength. 

    Don’t stop photographing though. You’ll want to catch the sunset reflecting in the windows as well after the sun goes down a little.

    beach family portrait - How to Find and Use Natural Light Reflectors for Portraits

    Using the sand as a natural light reflector is a perfect way to evenly light your subjects at the beach.

    Another example of beach photos and using the sand as a natural reflector.

    You can also become a natural reflector

    Wearing white can bounce some much-needed light off you and back to your subject if you need a bit more light. A simple white t-shirt can do the trick and give you a little boost of light. It especially makes for great catchlights in your subject’s eyes.

    How to Find and Use Natural Light Reflectors for Portraits

    Using white can help reflect light. Take precaution when photographing in really bright sunlight as it can sometimes wash out details in the shirts. However, if you use a white shirt, it has the same effect of bouncing light.

    White shirts can give your subject a soft dewy look. Just be mindful that you will have to be relatively close to your subject so that enough light can bounce back onto the subject’s face.

    In conclusion

    portrait of a girl - How to Find and Use Natural Light Reflectors for Portraits

    When you’re photographing in natural light, these natural reflectors can help make for interesting, beautifully lit portraits of your subjects. The boost of light can get you out of shaded areas and allow you to shoot at all hours of the day without having to carry additional gear other than your camera. 

    Have fun and experiment with different types of natural reflectors to add drama to your portraits.

    The post How to Find and Use Natural Reflectors for Portraits appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • GIMP 2.10.0 released: Features 32-bit support, new UI and more

    Open-source image editor GIMP has been updated to version 2.10.0, its first major update in six years. In this new version, GIMP has been “nearly” fully ported to the GEGL image processing engine, which brings support for up to 32-bit images, multi-threaded processing, and optional GPU-side processing for systems with stable OpenCL drivers.

    According to the team, GIMP 2.10.0 uses GEGL for all of its tile management and to build an acyclic graph for each project. That satisfies the prerequisites for eventually adding non-destructive editing, a future feature slated for version 3.2.

    The new image processing engine aside, GIMP 2.10 brings an updated UI with a new default dark theme; the symbolic icons are also now enabled by default. This gives users a total of four theme option: Dark, Light, Gray, and System. However, themes and icons have been separated so that users can choose them independently for better customization.

    Additionally, there are now four icon sizes to improve their look on HiDPI displays. The software automatically detects the best size for the display; however, since it may not always be accurate, users can manually change the size if necessary.

    Many new features and improvements, as well as expanded support, have arrived in 2.10.0—complete details of the changes are available in the full release notes. Notable among the changes is support for multiple new formats (including OpenEXR, WebP, RGBE, and HGT) on-canvas previews for filters ported to GEGL, improved warp tools, color management has been revamped as a core feature, and the digital painting experience has been enhanced.

    GIMP 2.10.0 can be downloaded now for Windows, macOS, Linux, BSD, and Solaris.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Adobe is now making ‘Lightroom Coffee Break’ videos for Lightroom CC

    For a while now, the official Adobe Photoshop Lightroom YouTube channel has produced a series titled ‘Lightroom Coffee Break.’ The collection of videos provides quick (~60 seconds) tips on how to make the most of Lightroom, and after 56 episodes, the creators have finally started to include tips specifically for Adobe’s cloud-centric Lightroom CC.

    Until now, all of the videos have been based on Lightroom Classic CC. Now, the minute-long videos will include tips and tricks specifically created for Lightroom CC users—a welcomed change considering it’s becoming the go-to choice for many photographers, and there aren’t a lot of resources out there as of right now.

    The first video, presented by Lightroom team members Michelle Wei and Josh Haftel, details how easy it is to salvage an underexposed Raw photograph using only four sliders: exposure, highlights, shadows, and contrast. It might seem a bit basic, but you can count on future episodes to dive into more complicated adjustments.

    Even though Adobe is just now getting around to making tutorials specifically for Lightroom CC, many of the previous videos made for Lightroom Classic CC still apply, so take some time and look at the archive. At one minute each, you could get through all 57 episodes in an hour—less time than it takes to watch an episode of Game of Thrones.

    And if you want to keep up with future videos, be sure to subscribe to the Adobe Photoshop Lightroom YouTube channel.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Composition Checklist for Beginners

    At a recent meetup with several photographers, during a discussion on composition, one of the beginners commented: “Why isn’t there a composition checklist for all the things we need to think about?” It was a good question and was the inspiration that prompted this article.

    It’s not about the gear

    You can have the most expensive camera gear and the most amazing light. You could be in a fabulous scenic location, or shooting a stunning model. There are many situations that might provide you with the opportunity to shoot breathtaking images, but if the composition is not spot on, then it doesn’t matter how fancy or expensive your gear is.

    Composition Checklist for Beginners - flower blooming

    The reverse is true also, you can craft amazing images with beginner grade gear (even your cell phone) if your understanding of composition is good. When you know the rules and guidelines, can work them to your advantage, and even push the barriers and be really creative. No one will care what gear you used to get the shot, they will go “Wow, you must have an amazing camera!”

    Learn the composition basics

    Even though there are many different kinds of photography, whether you do street, landscapes, macro, studio or anything else, there are a lot of basic composition concepts that apply. Not every concept will need to be considered for every image but having a good understanding of the basics will get you a long way.

    Truly understanding composition was one of the major steps in my photography making a big step up in improvement. Like every new idea, you have to put some effort into learning the idea, practicing, learning from your mistakes and practicing again and again. When you can frame up a well-composed shot without consciously thinking about what you are doing and why then you can really start to think about new ways to frame and shape your images.

    First, you have to master the basics.

    roller derby - Composition Checklist for Beginners

    Getting Started

    First of all, these are not rules. While there are some guidelines you should consider when creating an aesthetically pleasing image, it is entirely possible to ignore them all and still make a stunning image. It is, however, a lot easier to do that when you know what the guidelines are first. So this is a list of concepts you should consider for each image, not rules you absolutely have to follow.

    Some things are easy and obvious, or so you might think. Yet the number of images with noticeably crooked horizons you see posted online is a testament to the fact that this stuff is not always obvious, and is hard to learn. Be kind to yourself and take it in stages. Maybe even write your list down and carry it in your camera bag as a handy reminder.

    Also, every image will have different elements in it, and different concepts will apply. So pick and choose the ones that work for you and the scene in front of you. As an example, there are things you would do when framing up a landscape that won’t apply when shooting street photography shots.

    So be sensible, pick a few that make sense to you or that apply to the way you shoot. Then practice them until it’s like breathing – it just happens automatically when you pick up the camera and frame a shot. When you get to that stage, add some more concepts to your process, and absorb those the same way.

    Composition Checklist

    So here is the checklist of things to look for in your composition as a starting point.

    1. Is the horizon straight?
    2. Is the subject strong and obvious within the image?
    3. Are the edges of the frame clean? Is anything poking into the frame that distract the viewer? Are there elements of the image that lead the eye out of the frame that could be positioned better?
    4. Is the background clean – are there distracting elements like a car parked in the background, or a fence or a house that doesn’t fit? Can you move or change the angle to remove that element?
    5. Is the foreground tidy? Are you shooting a landscape or natural scene where there might be branches or leaves or twigs in the foreground that could be tidied away?
    6. The position of people in the shot. Do they have a lamp post or a tree growing out of the top of their head? Have you chopped heads, feet, arms, or legs off?
    7. Eye contact – when shooting a group of people, do we have eye contact with all your subjects?
    8. Camera position – are you at the right height/angle for the best composition?
    9. Point of focus – when taking photos of people/creatures/animals have you focused on the eye? Do you have a catchlight in the eye?
    10. Is the Rule of Thirds being used effectively?
    11. Do you have a sense of scale – particularly valid for large landscape scenes?
    12. How does the eye travel around the image? Where does it go first? Where does it end up? Is that the story you want to tell the viewer?
    13. Lens choice – does the lens you are using affect the composition in a positive or negative way? Would a different lens be worth considering?
    14. Less is more – what truly needs to be in the frame? What can you leave out?
    15. Is it sharp? Do you want it to be?

    Considering Composition in More Detail

    #1 – Is the horizon straight?

    It would seem fairly easy to notice if the horizon is straight when you are taking a shot. It is also extremely easy to fix in post-processing, yet so many images are posted online that have crooked horizons, varying from a little bit to quite a lot. Our brains automatically hiccup when they encounter it, so it is a genuine composition issue that needs to be resolved.

    You can take the time to set the camera up so it is completely level. When shooting a panorama, timelapse, video and similar things, it is worth the extra effort. For general purpose use, it can be easily edited in post-production.

    tilted horizon example - Composition Checklist for Beginners

    The horizon is about 3 degrees tilted down to the left – just enough to make your brain twitch.

    #2 – Is the subject strong and obvious within the image?

    There are some composition concepts that are fairly straightforward and obvious, like point #1 above. Then there are some that are more open to interpretation.

    This point could be considered one of those things. However, I then propose this question to you. If the subject is not strong or obvious then how do we know what the point of your image is?

    Composition Checklist for Beginners - green garden image

    There are a lot of competing elements in this image, where do we start?

    #3 – Are the edges of the frame clean?

    Are there things poking into the frame that distract the viewer? Look for elements in the image which lead your eye out of the frame. Could they be positioned better?

    Running your eye around the edge of the frame when composing your shot is a valuable step that can save you a lot of time. This is one lesson I personally had to learn the hard way and it applies to most general styles of photography.

    Are there things poking into the frame from outside it that impose themselves on the image and distract the viewer? Are there blurry elements in the foreground that you could move or change your point of view to reduce their impact? Is there half a car or a building partially visible in the background perhaps?

    Quite often when you are framing a shot, you are focused so intently on the subject, that you may neglect to see the whole image. So you may miss these extra details that can make or break the shot.

    purple flower - Composition Checklist for Beginners

    The extra leaf and bud in the top left corner are distracting.

    #4 – Is the background clean?

    Are there distracting elements like a car parked in the background, or a fence or a house that doesn’t fit? Can you move or change the camera angle to eliminate that element from the image?

    This is an extra step on top of point #3 above – putting more effort into assessing the background.

    Are you taking a nice landscape and there is a farm shed clearly visible? Perhaps there is a truck parked in the distance or a vehicle on the road you need to wait to move out of frame. Are the colors harmonious? Is the sky doing nice things? Is the sun a bit too bright in the clouds?

    colonial mansion - Composition Checklist for Beginners

    This lovely colonial mansion had a very modern hospital and school behind it and was difficult to frame it up to reduce those jarring elements.

    #5 – Is the foreground tidy?

    Are you shooting a landscape or natural scene? Are there branches, leaves, or twigs in the foreground that could be tidied away?

    This is particularly relevant in nature and landscape photography, but still worth remembering in general.

    Is what you have in the foreground adding to the image or distracting from the subject? Is there rubbish or stuff on the ground that looks messy? Are there twigs too close to the lens so they are blurry? Can you move any branches or things out of the way or do you need to change the angle of shooting instead?

    Composition Checklist for Beginners - red mushroom

    Look at all the mess of cones and twigs in the foreground, all blurry and untidy.

    #6 – The position of people or the subject

    Do any people in your image have lamp posts or a tree growing out of the top of their heads? Have you chopped heads, feet, arms, or legs off awkwardly?

    Often a problem for posed outdoor shots, this is essentially a specific element of point #3 above – checking the background in relation to your subjects.

    Is the camera straight, is the angle flattering? Are people squinting into the sun? Is the lighting good? Do you have all their body parts within the frame? Is everyone looking in the same direction or interacting in the desired manner?

    cat photo - Composition Checklist for Beginners

    His eyes are sharp but I cut his front paws off, not good.

    #7 – Eye contact

    When shooting a group of people, do we have eye contact with all the subjects?

    Quite often when shooting people they will generally be looking at the camera. However, if some are and some are not, it has a weird kind of dissonance to the viewer. So make sure you have some way of engaging the people so they look at you and take several shots.

    If worst comes to worst you can work some Photoshop magic to blend a few frames together if it’s a critical image.

    Composition Checklist for Beginners

    Notice they are not all looking at the camera.

    #8 – Camera position

    Are you at the right height and camera angle for the best composition?

    Being at eye level with your subject makes a big difference to the feel of an image. When photographing people, the camera angle does have an effect on how flattering the shot might be to the subject.

    You may want to push some creative boundaries and do something different for a particular scene. Street photography is one genre where the height and angle can directly impact the story you are telling.

    On average most people tend to stand and shoot from that position, but what if you get down really low?  What if you find some stairs or some way to get higher up?  What if you shoot straight down on top of your subject rather than side on?

    Start to think more creatively about how you use composition to evoke a mood or tell a story about a scene.

    white swan - Composition Checklist for Beginners

    This image works because I was flat on the shore at a similar height to the swan. Had I been standing you would not have seen the wonderful curve in the bird’s neck.

    #9 – Point of focus

    When taking photos of people, creatures or animals have you focused on their eyes? Do you have catchlight in the eyes?

    If you have a subject with eyes in the image that is looking at the camera it is important to have the focus point on the eye. Faces of people, birds, and animals are very dimensional and it can be easy to get the focus point on the tip of the nose or forehead or somewhere else. So if you have a living creature looking at your camera, focus on their eye.

    Another trick to make them look alive and engaged is to angle your shot so that there is some light reflected off the dark iris. This is called a catchlight and is important especially for animals and birds that have large dark eyes. Fashion photographers use fancy round beauty dish lights to give a distinctive ring effect in their shots.

    Composition Checklist for Beginners - cat photo

    The nose is sharp but the eyes are just a bit out of focus which is not desirable.

    #10 – Is the Rule of Thirds being used?

    While the Rule of Thirds is more of a guideline than a hard and fast rule, it is a good one for a beginner to take on board. It is easy to remember and does help you create a more dynamic and interesting image when used well.

    So if you intend on using it, add it to your mental checklist.

    birds - Composition Checklist for Beginners

    The subject in this image is more or less in the middle, but if you crop it to use Rule of Thirds the image doesn’t work as well.

    #11 – Do you have a sense of scale in your landscape scenes?

    Big mountain vistas are lovely. But sometimes they can become bland and uninteresting because they lack a sense of scale to truly appreciate them.

    One recommendation is that a foreground element can be used to both ground the image and provide scale for the big vista behind it. Some photographers like to use themselves as a prop to help add scale as well.

    Composition Checklist for Beginners - man in landscape scene

    #12 – How does the eye travel around the image?

    Where does your eye go first? Where does it end up? Is that the story you want to tell the viewer?

    What do you have in the image to engage the eye? Are there different elements or points the eye can travel around? Does it have contrast? Are there elements that lead the eye out of the image? Are there elements that lead the eye into or around an image?

    spider web in a tree - Composition Checklist for Beginners

    #13 – Lens choice

    Does the lens you are using affect the composition in a positive or negative way? Would a different lens be worth considering?

    This can cross the boundary between a technical consideration and a creative one. Sometimes there may be a valid reason to use a specific lens, a faraway subject likely to fly away demands the use of a long lens. A tiny flower might be better shot with a macro lens. Telephoto lenses compress the elements in an image, making them seem closer together. Wide angle lenses create a lot of distortion around the edges, especially at minimal focal lengths.

    Beyond that are the creative choices. Yes, you could shoot the front of this house with a wide focal length, but what if you put a zoom on and highlighted the fancy door knocker or handle? Is the lens you are using giving a flattering look to the person you are shooting?

    Composition Checklist for Beginners - large eagle wings spread

    A different lens would have allowed me to zoom out far enough to get this entire bird in the frame *sigh*.

    #14 – Less is more

    What truly needs to be in the frame? What can you leave out?

    A mistake a lot of beginners make is to include too many elements in an image. It can be cluttered, messy, and confusing as to the point of the image.

    Sometimes that can be used to advantage in things like street photography, but usually, less is more. A strong obvious subject and minimal distraction around it is a very aesthetically pleasing combination but it can be difficult to learn how to frame images up this way.

    Composition Checklist for Beginners - landscape scene

    So much going on here, its a bit overwhelming with no clear subject. It’s a pretty scene but is the composition effective?

    #15 – Is the image sharp?

    Do you want it to be? Not every image need to be 100% sharp. You can use aperture to creative effect by selecting a narrow depth of field. ICM or Intentional Camera Movement adds blur and movement as well. Use of specialty lenses like those from Lensbaby gives you many different ways to add soft focus or special effects to enhance your image.

    Many street shots have blurred movement and creative focus elements, either the photographer or the subject (or both) may be moving.

    Some people insist that images be absolutely as sharp as they can be, but that is a creative choice up to you, the photographer.

    Composition Checklist for Beginners - motion blur from moving water

    A bit of slow shutter speed on the waves for a soft creative swirl effect.

    Summary

    Some of the items on the checklist are basic sensible things that apply to most images. Some are more advanced technical considerations. Others may only apply if you are considering trying some more creative approaches to your composition

    There are many other specific technical concepts that are not covered in this composition checklist. When you are ready for them, you can find plenty of information here on dPS to guide you.

    This list is designed to cover the most basic ideas and thoughts that a beginner might need to keep in mind when first starting to think about properly composing and framing up their images. Good news, if you have made the step to start making your images with deliberate intention, that means you already have your feet on the path to becoming a better photographer.

    Pick a few key items from this composition checklist that apply to your style of photography and try to remember them deliberately everytime you shoot. Eventually, it will become so automatic, you adjust for them without thinking, your mental muscle memory will have kicked in.

    Are there any key concepts you feel should be included in this list?  By all means, let me know in the comments below.

    The post Composition Checklist for Beginners appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • Tips for Converting an Old Camera for Shooting Infrared Photography

    A few years ago I become friends with a guy who likes dong infrared photography. It was something that I had tried when I was shooting film, but never quite figured out. My friend had converted an old camera of his and it seemed like a good idea. At the time, I had two old cameras and thought perhaps I could use one of them for infrared. However, the price was too high then.

    Tips for Converting an Old Camera for Shooting Infrared Photography

    Port Arthur and the main Penitentiary looks a lot better in infrared.

    Move forward to a few years, and after buying a second-hand camera from a friend, I found myself in the same position. I had two extra camera bodies, so why not convert one to infrared.

    You can do this by putting a filter on the end of the lens, but from searching around for information, getting the camera converted specifically for infrared seemed like a better alternative.

    What is infrared photography

    Perhaps before going any further, it might be good to get an understanding of what infrared photography is actually all about.

    Infrared photography is the capture of part of the spectrum of light that is invisible to the naked human eye. Infrared light is at the top end of the spectrum and is not visible to the eye, so to capture it with a camera some special techniques and equipment are required.

    It isn’t an easy concept to understand, but once you get out there and start doing it, you will figure out what works and what doesn’t.

    Tips for Converting an Old Camera for Shooting Infrared Photography

    Late winter at Alowyn Gardens. It never snows here, but the infrared camera makes it look like it had.

    Different ways of doing infrared

    As with most types of photography, there are various ways to go about it. Infrared photography is no different.

    Computer conversion to infrared

    You can find ways to do infrared conversions on the computer. There are processes that you can use that will help give you that infrared look, however, it is just a look and won’t be the same as doing it with filters or a dedicated camera. If you are curious, though, you could try this first before investing any extra money into it.

     Filters

    leannecole-infrared-photography-0200

    Alowyn Gardens again, looking again like winter and snow, or perhaps a frost.

    There are filters that you can get to put on your lens that will help you to get infrared-style images. These will let the IR light through to your sensor. The advantage is that you don’t have to give up a camera body to do this. I’ve never tried them, so I can’t comment on how good they are or are not.

    Camera

    One thing a lot of photographers who love this kind of photography do is to get one of their cameras converted to be dedicated just for doing infrared photography. Some do this themselves, or you can take it to camera repair place to do it for you.

    I took mine to a place to get the infrared conversion done. I’m always wary of playing around with the sensor. They have to remove the filter that comes with the camera and replace it with one that will let through the infrared light, and block all visible light.

    Tips for Converting an Old Camera for Shooting Infrared Photography

    Late winter at Alowyn Gardens. It never snows here, but the infrared camera can give it that look.

    Choosing which sensor filter

    You do have to choose which filter you want and some places will give you many choices. Where I sent my camera there were only two options.

    The first choice is the 720nm filter. This will give you close to a full infrared effect, but it will allow you to put some color into your images. The second is the 850nm which would give you very rich dark blacks and perfect if all you want to do is black and white infrared.

    For me the choice was easy, I wanted to get some of that color. Not all the time, but it was important to have a choice, so I went with the 720nm filter.

    Tips for Converting an Old Camera for Shooting Infrared Photography - color infrared image

    The 720nm sensor filter allows you to get some color, like having a blue sky.

    What to photograph in infrared

    Like any type of photography, you can photograph anything with an infrared camera or one with a special filter. However, not everything will have the same effect or give you great results. You really need to experiment with it to see what will work.

    People

    Portraits can be quite weird, and the infrared light does strange things to the skin and facial features. The hair can look funny too and the lips almost disappear. I don’t know that many people would enjoy getting their portrait done this way. Perhaps for a special event or something, maybe. Who knows.

    infrared portrait - Tips for Converting an Old Camera for Shooting Infrared Photography

    The infrared camera gives Chris a completely different look.

    Trees and nature – give your scene the look of winter

    Trees are fantastic for this type of photography. All the leaves come out looking white. The more moisture the leaves have the whiter they are in the image. The gum trees in Australia don’t have quite the same effect as trees that are not indigenous to the area.

    It makes photographing in rain forests pointless as everything shows up as white and doesn’t have the same effect as it does with a color image. It’s hard to see any definition between the plants.

    Tips for Converting an Old Camera for Shooting Infrared Photography - b/w of trees and forest in IR

    Australian natives are a little different with infrared photography.

    One thing I found was that dead trees looked amazing in infrared. If you photograph them surrounded by lots of other trees, or on their own you would get a very different look. They stand out with an elegance that color photography just doesn’t give them.

    When traveling around Tasmania with my infrared converted camera I was looking for dead trees everywhere.

    dead trees in IR b/w - Tips for Converting an Old Camera for Shooting Infrared Photography

    Dead trees on the side of the road in Tasmania.

    Architecture

    One of the first times using the camera was in the city of Melbourne. I just walked around and took photos of the buildings and streets to see what could be captured in infrared.

    The images were disappointing. Once converted to black and white they didn’t look any different than other images done with a normal camera. They did have a quality that gave them an antique look, but other than that there was no discernable differences.

    b/w IR architecture - Tips for Converting an Old Camera for Shooting Infrared Photography

    St Paul’s Cathedral in Melbourne, it looks like any black and white image, though taken with the infrared camera.

    While on that same trip to Tasmania there did seem to be some buildings that were really suited  to infrared, like some old sandstone structures. Places like Port Arthur, where all of the buildings are made of stone, came out looking really good with the camera.

    When visiting Port Arthur I took images with the infrared camera and the normal one. Once the photos were on the computer it seemed clear that the ones done with the special camera were by far more interesting. Many of the images were processed, some hand colored and then published on social media. The color images of the same subjects were boring in comparison.

    Processing

    All the images taken with the infrared camera need to be processed. You may find the sepia quality of the images quite good, but there is so much you can do to them. You can convert straight to black and white or play around with the white balance to get some color in the images.

    hand colored IR image of a church - Tips for Converting an Old Camera for Shooting Infrared Photography

    A small church in Tasmania, the sky was made blue because of the filter and the stone was hand colored on the computer later.

    Experimenting

    Really, this is what photography is all about. Get out there with your camera to see what you can capture, what will work, and what doesn’t. Each subject will look different with infrared photography, but you should try every type of photography you can think of to take images and then review your results.

    Right now, I’m experimenting with a red filter on the lens. The images are interesting, but I need to try it a lot more.

    Tips for Converting an Old Camera for Shooting Infrared Photography

    Cascade Brewery is an old sandstone building that came out well. In the background, you can see the snow on Mount Wellington.

    Finally

    While it can be an expensive exercise converting a camera to infrared, if you have an old body lying around, then you might want to consider it. You can do a lot of experimenting with it and you will likely not regret getting it done.

    If you like the look of this sort of photography, then there are also other options. It is amazing how much the world can change with infrared and it is a great way to add something different to your portfolio.

    The post Tips for Converting an Old Camera for Shooting Infrared Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • Hex Raven DSLR Bag Review

    Hex Raven DSLR Bag
    $ 239.95 | HexBrand.com

    Finding a backpack that doesn’t scream “I’m a camera bag,” but can still hold all of my gear while not killing my back has long been a struggle for me. I’m 5’3″ and most backpacks that can hold a lot of equipment are impossible for me to carry for any extended period of time. Living in a city, typically when I head out for an assignment close to home I’ll opt to bring less gear so that it will fit into a smaller, understated backpack. But for assignments that require more gear or travel, a smaller bag just won’t cut it.

    The design looks different than your typical padded camera backpack

    That’s why I was immediately intrigued by the Hex Raven DSLR bag – although I had never heard of the company before – as the design looks different than your typical padded camera backpack. The Hex’s square shape and matte black material were particularly appealing to me. It also looked like it could hold a ton of equipment – a very good thing considering I’d be spending a week in Austin, Texas covering SXSW and a short time later a week on the road touring with a band from Brooklyn. I knew that my typical one body, two lens, one speedlight setup just wasn’t going to cut it for these two jobs.

    Specifications

    • Exterior: 20 x 12 x 8in / 50 x 30.5 x 20cm
    • Interior: 20 x 12 x 4in / 50 x 30.5 x 10cm
    • Laptop Compartment: 20 x 12 x 3in / 50 x 30.5 x 8cm
    • Weight: 5lbs / 2.3kg

    Design & Construction

    The Hex Raven DSLR bag’s exterior is made of matte black tarpaulin with waterproof zippers. The straps are thick, air-mesh padded. The front of the bag has two compartments. The top one is accessed by undoing the buckles. Beneath the flap is a zippered compartment that is fleece-lined and can hold up to a 17″ laptop as well as a small tablet. This section of the Hex is easily accessed, making it convenient to remove these larger items in the rush to get through airport security.

    Top front storage

    Undoing the bag’s buckles reveals a zippered compartment that offers a fleece-lined laptop sleeve and separate space for a tablet.

    Lower front storage

    There are two lower zippered pockets. The main space offers room to organize and store items you might want quick access to.

    There are two zippered areas on the lower front of the bag, which are great for stashing keys, pens, notebooks, spare batteries or memory cards.

    On the right side of the bag you’ll find two more small flat zippered pockets, which are fairly easy to access when the thing is on your back – they’re great for holding any odds and ends that you might need such as chapstick, business cards, a small wallet or your phone. On the opposite side of the bag there are straps to attach a tripod.

    You can attach a tripod to the side of the backpack using the two straps. The opposite side has two very small zippered pockets.

    Camera equipment is accessed through the bag’s back panel which is made of EVA foam and air-mesh. The back panel zips along three sides of the bag. The inside features padded partitions that are customizable depending on the amount of gear inside. There are also two zippered back pockets and a velcro pouch on the inside for even more storage options.

    This bag features ample storage, has the ability to hold a ton of gear and its construction feels like it can handle life on the road while keeping your camera equipment safe. The zippers on the Hex bag were a little stiff right out of the box, but after a few weeks of use that stiffness has disappeared—I no longer feel like I have to fight with the Hex bag to access my gear.

    A zipper on the very top of the Hex bag makes it easy to access your primary camera without having to open the main gear section.

    Although the bag was quite flat when it was empty as I filled it up with my equipment to prepare for my trip to Austin I became skeptical—I wasn’t sure whether its bulk would become overwhelming.

    In Use

    I was thoroughly impressed by the amount of gear I was able to fit into the Hex: two bodies (a Canon 5D IV and a 5D III), four lenses (35mm, 50mm, 24-70mm and a 70-200mm), a speedlight, an LED on camera light, four batteries, two chargers, a point and shoot film camera, portable HD, a laptop, a laptop charger and an iPad. That being said, as I prepared to head to the airport and catch my flight to Austin I wasn’t sure that the monster would actually be able to fit under my seat (fully loaded the Hex was almost as large as my carry on roller bag).

    The bag distributed the weight quite nicely

    Although the Hex was certainly heavy with all of this gear, the bag distributed the weight quite nicely. Like many photographers, I’m used to feeling an acute amount of shoulder pain while carrying gear around; I didn’t notice this with the Hex bag.

    The various storage options within the bag also made it easy to access the pieces of gear I needed, both while going through security and while waiting for my flight – without pulling everything out. Although getting the Hex under the seat in front of me (really my biggest concern in using the bag as a carry on for my flight) was a bit of a struggle, it wasn’t impossible. However, someone with longer legs might find the situation untenable. Here, the amount of individual storage spaces within the bag also made a big difference, as it was easy to grab what I wanted when I wanted it without unpacking the whole thing.

    The Hex was great for safely and comfortably transporting and later storing large amounts of valuable camera equipment

    Although having a bag with room for so many lenses and a backup body is a plus, realistically the Hex is just too oversized to make sense in the small music venues bands play during SXSW or a cramped photo pit at a larger show—but the Hex was great for safely and comfortably transporting and later storing large amounts of valuable camera equipment while I was traveling.

    A few weeks later I was prepping to hit the road for a week with a touring band from Brooklyn. My gear storage needs were more or less the same but because we would be traveling by van, space was limited. My photo gear needed to take up way less space than the band’s gear, but still be easy to access so I could edit as we drove from city to city.

    Its shape and style don’t make it immediately clear that it’s a camera bag

    Although the Hex was still too bulky to be a good fit for inside the small venues where the band was playing, its non-descript look made me feel okay about leaving it inside the locked van in numerous cities with my back up equipment still inside. Its shape and style don’t make it immediately clear that it’s a camera bag, which I’d like to think makes it a little less of a target.

    Bottom Line

    The Hex Raven is well designed and feels like it is built to last. The amount of pockets make it easy to organize a large amount of equipment, and they’re functional when it comes to finding specific items in a hurry. It’s certainly a little pricey for a camera backpack, but considering the sheer amount of gear that it can accommodate, its durable construction and the classy design, it seems worth the price tag.

    I would be interested in checking out a scaled-down version of the Hex for day-to-day use.

    Although the bag is too bulky to be good for everyday use, as a travel bag I appreciate its understated design, storage options and the way in which it evenly distributed weight. I would certainly be interested in checking out a scaled-down version of the Hex for day-to-day use.

    What We Like:

    • Ample organizational pockets for camera equipment and other odds and end
    • Understated design
    • Doesn’t scream ‘camera bag’
    • Padded shoulder straps + good weight distribution
    • Durable construction
    • Good travel bag

    What We Don’t Like:

    • High price for a camera backpack
    • Not great for everyday use
    • On the bulky side when fully loaded with gear

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • The Highs and Lows of ISO and How to Use it to Your Best Advantage

    Treating ISO as the foundation of the exposure triangle and only adjusting it when you really need to will help you produce more consistently creative photographs.

    Asian woman taking a photo - all about ISO

    ISO 100 (allowing a wide aperture setting).

    ISO stands for International Standards Organization, which does not really help you understand what it is. But it does indicate the standard is international and it is constant across all brands and types of cameras.

    The ISO is the measurement of how responsive your camera’s sensor is to light. The lower the numeric value, the less responsive, the higher the value, the more responsive.

    Editor’s note: ISO is actually much more complicated than that but for purposes of this article, this is generally considered the easiest explanation of ISO to understand, especially for beginners. 

    Close up of twp people holding DSLR cameras - ISO settings

    ISO 400

    Low ISO

    Choosing a low ISO setting, say less than 400, is best when there’s a lot of light or when you have a tripod and the style of photograph you want to make allows you to use a long exposure. When the ISO setting is low, the sensor is less responsive to light, so, therefore, it requires more light to create a well-exposed photograph.

    Using a low ISO setting will result in better technical quality photos generally. There will be little or no digital noise, the colors and contrast in your images will be better.

    Woman standing in a fresh market holding vegetables - ISO 100

    ISO 100 allowing for a slow shutter speed in bright light. My friend was standing very still and my camera was on a tripod.

    High ISO

    Choosing a higher ISO setting is best when the light is low or you are not able to make a long exposure. Higher ISO setting means your camera’s sensor is more responsive to light, so it needs less light to reach the sensor to create a well-exposed photograph.

    It also means the technical quality of your images may be affected by digital noise, colors may be less vibrant and overall image contrast is flatter. How much, depends on how high you have your ISO setting and your camera model.

    Sensor technology is rapidly changing and, if you have a newer, higher-end model of camera you can more confidently choose to make photos at higher ISO settings than with older, lower-quality cameras.

    Sky lanterns being released in Chiang Mai during Yee Ping festival - high ISO

    ISO 6400. Allowing a fast enough shutter speed to avoid motion blur in the lantern in low lighting conditions.

    When and Why to Adjust the ISO

    Unlike shutter speed and aperture settings, the ISO setting has no direct creative impact on your photographs. If you think the inclusion of obvious digital noise in an image mimics a creative value similar to film grain I suggest you do some more serious study on the matter.

    Adjusting the ISO can assist you to achieve the shutter speed and/or aperture settings you desire to create the style of photograph you have in mind.

    Street scene at night in Thailand - ISO

    ISO 100 allowing a very slow shutter speed (long exposure).

    ISO and Aperture Creativity

    If you are wanting to blur a background using a wide aperture setting when the light is bright, you will need to adjust your ISO to one of the lowest settings to accomplish this. If you were to use a high ISO setting you may not be able to obtain a good exposure with a wide enough aperture setting, so your background will not be as soft looking as you want it to be.

    Asian woman portrait - ISO

    ISO 160 allowing a wide aperture setting to achieve a blurred background.

    Alternatively, if you want to create an image where everything in your composition is in sharp focus, it is best to choose a higher ISO, especially when the light is not so bright. By choosing a higher ISO you will be able to set your aperture to a higher f-stop number and achieve a greater depth of field than if your camera were set to a lower ISO value.

    ISO and Shutter Speed Creativity

    Choosing a low ISO can assist you in achieving a slow shutter speed when you want to create a photograph incorporating some motion blur. If you are photographing a moving subject, like a waterfall, and wish capture a lovely silky effect in the water, you will need to use a slow shutter speed.

    This is easier to do when your ISO setting is low.

    Mae Ya Waterfall - low ISO

    ISO 50 on a bright day to set the shutter speed slow enough to capture motion blur in the water.

    Freezing action by using a fast shutter speed will often require you to choose a higher ISO setting, especially if the light is not so bright. Being able to adjust your shutter speed so that is will render a fast moving subject as though it’s frozen in time will often mean balancing your exposure with a higher ISO.

    Auto ISO

    If you are comfortable with having your camera in control of your exposure, then Auto ISO is a good option to consider. If you set your ISO to Auto as you adjust your aperture and/or shutter speed settings, the ISO will modify itself to make an exposure the camera finds appropriate.

    Night time photo of Chedi Luang Thailand - ISO 800

    ISO 800

    If you do choose to work with Auto ISO, I recommend you do some testing first to discover what maximum ISO setting you are comfortable with for your camera.

    To do this, take a series of photos of the same subject in the same lighting conditions and double your ISO setting each time. Then compare all the photos (look at them close-up and full image) and find the ISO setting for the image you are comfortable with, the one just before you see too much digital noise.

    Editor’s note: Try not to overly pixel-peep. By looking at your images at 100% on your computer screen you will not get a true feeling for the amount of noise which will be visible at a normal viewing distance. 

    Many cameras have a means to set a maximum when using Auto ISO. So you can now set this to the number you determined with the test above.

    Practical Conclusions

    Three Asian woman review an image on a DSLR monitor - ISO

    ISO 320

    Adjusting your ISO setting is generally only necessary when you want to achieve a specific effect or when the light conditions change.

    When we do our photography workshops we always make sure to choose some locations which are outdoors and some which are indoors. This gives us the opportunity to demonstrate when it’s good to make an adjustment to the ISO setting.

    Thai Wood Carver - ISO

    ISO 2000 allows for a shutter speed fast enough to freeze the action in this low light setting.

    If you are photographing outdoors on a bright day, your ISO setting will most likely be between ISO 100 and ISO 400. If you go inside, especially to a dimly lit building with few windows, you may find yourself struggling to obtain a good exposure with a fast enough shutter speed if you are only adjusting your aperture and shutter speed settings.

    By adjusting your ISO so your camera’s sensor becomes more responsive in the low light you will be more flexible and capable of being more creative with your camera.

    ?

    The post The Highs and Lows of ISO and How to Use it to Your Best Advantage appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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  • Chris and Jordan of Camera Store TV are coming to DPReview!

    We’re very pleased to announce that Chris Niccolls and Jordan Drake of The Camera Store TV are coming to DPReview! Over the past eight years, Chris and Jordan have grown The Camera Store TV into one of the best general interest photography channels on YouTube, with a mixture of entertaining and educational content that covers everything from the latest cameras to how not to carry your camera bag.

    We’ve admired what Chris and Jordan do for a long time, and we’ve been trying to find ways of working with them for almost as long. So we’re very pleased to announce that as of April 28th, they’re leaving their old gig behind and coming to work for us. Why would they want to do that? In Chris’s words:

    “DPReview is synonymous with editorial integrity, and technical accuracy of the highest degree. Jordan and I are excited to combine our expertise and on-screen personalities with the in-depth knowledge and integrity that DPReview is known for”.

    They’re not moving to Seattle (that was a little too much to ask) but as of today Chris and Jordan will be creating new videos under the DPReview brand, and we’ll be uploading them to our own YouTube channel on a weekly basis. As well as the entertaining features that Camera Store TV has always been known for, Chris and Jordan will be working with us to create videos that complement our own long-form product reviews.

    We hope you’re as excited as we are to welcome to Chris and Jordan to DPReview.

    Subscribe to our YouTube channel to get new episodes every week

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • DPReview TV Episode 1: Sony a7 III review

    It’s official – we’ve joined forces with Chris Niccolls and Jordan Drake, formerly of The Camera Store TV, to bring you an all-new video series. To kick off the series, they take an in-depth look at the Sony a7 III. Take a look as they put the camera to work in the field – from landscapes in the Canadian Rockies to some low-light portraits at a local pinball spot.

    Read our in-depth a7 III review for even more analysis, and be sure to subscribe to our YouTube channel for more from Chris and Jordan!

    Read our a7 III review

    Subscribe to our YouTube channel

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • How to Make Custom Camera Raw Profiles for Lightroom & Photoshop

    Adobe just released a huge update to Camera RAW for Lightroom and Photoshop, which includes the ability to make creative custom camera RAW profiles!

    Above is a video tutorial showing you how you can make your own creative RAW profiles for Lightroom and Photoshop, and below I’ve also detailed the process with photos so you can follow along and get started making your own RAW profiles.

    Here’s a closer look at the process detailed in the video.

    Getting started

    To start, you need to open a RAW file into the Camera RAW Plugin for Photoshop. To do this, copy a RAW file to your desktop, and then either right-click the file and choose to open with Photoshop, or while in Photoshop, use the File > Open menu option to locate and open the RAW file (or just double-click it inside Bridge).

    Custom camera raw profiles 001

    Custom camera raw profiles 002

    Ideally you’ll want to choose an image that’s appropriate for the type of look you’re going to create for your profile. For example, if you plan to make a profile for your landscape images, use a RAW file of a landscape for this process.

    Make your desired adjustments

    Regardless of the image you choose, once you have the image open into Camera RAW you need to create the look you want for your profile.

    Custom camera raw profiles 003

    You do this using any/all the tools and sliders available in Camera RAW. In the example in the video, I made some adjustments to Split Toning and the point Curve.

    Custom camera raw profiles 004

    Custom camera raw profiles 005

    So my image now looks like this:

    Custom camera raw profiles 006

    Create your profile

    Your look will, of course, be different. But regardless of that, once you’ve created the look you want for your profile, go to the “Presets” tab of Camera RAW.

    Custom camera raw profiles 007

    At the bottom of the Presets tab is a little icon for creating a new preset.

    Custom camera raw profiles 008

    To create a new profile, hold down either the Option key (MAC users) or the ALT key (WINDOWS users) while clicking the new preset icon.T his will open the New Profile dialog box.

    Custom camera raw profiles 009

    You’ll want to name your new profile, just type into the first box at the top.

    By default, any sliders/adjustments you’ve made in Camera RAW will be checked in the list below (notice in the example that Split Toning and Point Curve are pre-checked to be included in the profile.)

    If for some reason you don’t want an adjustment included in your profile, you can just uncheck that adjustment.

    After naming your profile and making any changes to included adjustments, click the “OK” button to save your profile.

    How to find and use your new profile

    Custom camera raw profiles 010

    Back in Camera RAW in Photoshop, you can now navigate to the Basic panel and click the “Browse” icon (circled in red above) to expand the profile browser.

    Custom camera raw profiles 011

    At the bottom of the browser, you’ll find your new user profile!

    The new profile will also be available in Lightroom. However, if you had Lightroom open while you made the new profile, you’ll need to close and relaunch it to reload the profiles.

    Once Lightroom is open, go into the Develop Module, expand the Basic panel (if it’s not already expanded), and click the same browse icon that you saw in Photoshop.

    Custom camera raw profiles 012

    That will expand the profile browser which will look nearly identical to the one in Camera RAW for Photoshop. Then just click to select your new profile when you want to use it on an image.

    In either Lightroom or Photoshop, just click that browse icon again to close the profile browser after you’ve made your profile selection.

    And that’s it. You’ve now made your very own RAW profile!

    Take it a step further

    Now, you can stop here, and use this process to create as many profiles as you need to streamline and speed up your editing workflow. But there’s more you can do when creating your custom profiles, and this has to do with LUTs.

    If you already don’t know about them, LUT is an acronym for Look Up Table, and it’s a way of manipulating the colors in your image. What LUTs do is remap the colors of your image according to the instructions in the LUT.

    For example, you might have a LUT that remaps all instances of the color blue into the color red. When that LUT is applied to your image, anywhere the color blue appears, it will now be red. That’s a very simplified explanation of LUTs, but it gives you the general idea of what they do.

    If you don’t care about LUTs and you don’t plan to use them, you don’t need to go any further. But if you do use LUTs and want to include them in your profile, here’s how to do it.

    Using LUTs

    First, you need a LUT. You can either include a LUT you get from somewhere online or create your own. I can’t go into detail on creating LUTs here, as that’s an entire topic on its own, and there are too many methods for creating LUTs to cover. If you’d like to see one example of how to create a LUT, I’ve included an example in the video above.

    Regardless of where you get your LUT, it should be a “.CUBE” file

    With your LUT file ready and saved somewhere you can find it, open a RAW file into Camera RAW as detailed above.

    With your image open in Camera RAW, the very first thing you need to do is change the RAW profile. The default new is Adobe Color, so you need to change that to Adobe Standard (the previous default profile before this latest update).

    Custom camera raw profiles 013

    The reason you have to do this is that you need a profile that doesn’t already have a LUT so that you don’t have two different LUTs in a profile conflicting with each other. Prior to this update to Camera RAW, profiles didn’t include LUTs, so using Adobe Standard makes sure there is only one LUT in the profile you are about to create.

    With Adobe Standard selected, you can now make any other Camera RAW adjustments you want to include in your profile, just as you did above. After making those adjustments, go to the presets panel and open the New Profile dialog by holding Alt/Option and clicking the “New Preset” icon at the bottom of the window (as detailed above).

    With the dialog open, name your preset, and then down near the bottom, click the “Load Cube File” option. With the option highlighted, click it again to open the file browser.

    Custom camera raw profiles 014

    Find your “.CUBE” file and load it. Once it’s loaded in, you’ll notice some options in that section are now available to edit. The most important options are the Min, Amount, and Max options.

    Custom camera raw profiles 015

    These options correspond to the Amount slider you get with a creative/user created profile applied to an image.

    Custom camera raw profiles 016

    This amount slider is ONLY available for creative/user-generated profiles, and this slider changes how intensely the profile is applied to your image.

    The slider always defaults to 100. This is the baseline whenever you apply a creative profile. To adjust the intensity of the profile on the image, you can decrease the slider down to a minimum of 0, or increase it to a maximum of 200.

    Moving the slider up increases how intensely the profile is applied to your image, and decreasing it, in turn, decreases how intensely the profile is applied.

    Now, back to the Min, Amount, and Max settings. These three values correspond to the values of the amount slider.

    • The Min value corresponds to the Amount Slider value of 0.
    • The Amount value corresponds to the Amount Slider value of 100.
    • The Max value corresponds to the Amount Slider value of 200.

    What this means is that you can set the intensity levels of the Amount Slider for applying the LUT to your RAW file by adjusting the Min, Amount, and Max values.

    Here’s an example. Let’s say I have a LUT, that when applied to an image with no adjustments, makes the image look like this:

    Custom camera raw profiles 017

    When creating the profile using this LUT, if I leave the Min, Amount, and Max values at their defaults (0, 100, 200), then when I click to apply that profile, by default, my image will look very similar to what you see above.

    Custom camera raw profiles 018

    If however, I want to change the intensity of the LUT so that when the profile is applied that it looks like this by default:

    Custom camera raw profiles 019

    I would change the “Amount” value in the “New Profile” dialog to 30. (I’ll explain how I arrived at the value of 30 in a moment.)

    When changing the “Amount” value, you’ll also want to consider changing the “Max” value. If you leave the “Max” value at 200, the Amount slider will still work for the profile, and when set to 200, the look will be twice as intense as when the LUT is applied with no changes to intensity (as detailed above).

    Custom camera raw profiles 020

    If you change the “Max” value to 100, then when the slider is at 200, it will look similar to having the LUT was applied with no changes to intensity.

    I know this is a little confusing. What’s important to understand is that by adjusting the Min, Amount, and Max values, you’re setting the default for how the LUT is applied to the image with the profile, and the range of how the LUT will be applied to the image with the Amount Slider.

    Now, I came up with the value of 30 by experimenting when creating the profile and the LUT that I used to include in that profile (the process is detailed in the video).

    Unfortunately, the process in the video won’t be very helpful unless you create a LUT using the exact same process.

    Instead, what I recommend to determine the value you’ll want to use, is to first just create the profile with the LUT and leave the Min, Amount, and Max values alone.

    Then, apply that profile to one of your images. If by default the look is too intense, use the Amount slider to reduce the intensity until it looks the way you’d like it to look by default.

    Once you’ve found a slider value you’re happy with, make note of that number. For instance, if you reduce the Amount slider to 25, write that down.

    Then, go through the process of creating the profile again. This time, when you include the LUT, set the Amount value to 25, and the Max value to 100.

    Now, with this new profile applied, by default, it’ll look like you want it without having to make adjustments to the Amount Slider. (This will, of course, vary from image to image, and you’ll likely make some Amount adjustments, but this will give you the baseline you want to start with.)

    With this done you can then delete the profile and continue on using your now optimized profile with embedded LUT!

    Conclusion

    That’s how you create your own custom Camera RAW profiles, and how to include LUTs in them! If you have any questions let me know in the comments below.

    The post How to Make Custom Camera Raw Profiles for Lightroom & Photoshop appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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