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  • A Short Introduction to Basic Photo Editing for Beginners

    The post A Short Introduction to Basic Photo Editing for Beginners appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Lily Sawyer.

    If you’re a beginner, using editing software can be a daunting prospect. What if you can’t get a handle on the technology? What if it’s too complicated a process? What if it’s just too time-consuming? What if the images turn out horrible? So many what ifs! I get it; I’ve been there. In this article, I’m offering a very simple way of delving into editing if you’re a novice. These are basic principles that I hope will set you in good stead for more fancy editing in the future!

    dps-basic-editing-tutorial-final-image

    First things first.

    You need to be able to see what is a good image and a bad image. The key is in your perception.

    If you think heavily edited images are the perfect image, then your editing will lean that way and vice versa. If you think an overly-tinted image is perfect, then that would be your bar for perfection. We all have a bias towards something. However, for editing, I think we need to try and be as neutral as possible and leave our personal preferences for the moment.

    To be able to see things objectively, we need to:

    1. See the differences between over-exposed and under-exposed images and decide as to what is the correct exposure
    2. Understand white balance where white looks white, as it should, and not yellow or blue or orange
    3. See the contrast between dark and light
    4. Decide on the noise

    Once we have a basic grip of the above, then editing will be a breeze, and we can get more creative from a solid image base or what I’d like to call a clean edit.

    But first, a word on shooting format. Shoot in RAW.

    The images below are the original RAW images opened in Bridge without any edits applied.

    You can see there is a choice of Adobe color profiles. See the difference between the standard profile below left and the color profile used on the image on the right.

    You can choose which profile you prefer.

    dps-basic-editing-tutorial-profile

    To successfully understand the above, and make the edits towards them, it is important that you shoot in RAW format. If you shoot in JPEG, you are allowing the camera to process the image, discard pixels the camera deems unnecessary, and accept the color adjustments the camera has made. With a JPEG image, you have less control, are working on a great loss and compression of pixels at the very start and an already compromised image color.

    You can read more about RAW processing in Bridge here.

    Having said that, someone who is a really good, seasoned, experienced photographer may well shoot JPEGS and achieve the desired image they want. I am not there yet!

    Secondly, the type of camera you use affects the original images you get.

    A full-frame camera gives you the 35mm sensor – wider, more space, more light hitting the camera sensor and more pixels. What you see through the lens is pretty much what you get. A crop-sensor, on the other hand, works in the opposite way. The lens only allows you to use a portion of the sensor so that a 35mm lens mounted on a crop-sensor camera will only give you the point of view of a 52mm lens equivalent – a more zoomed-in longer focal length. You are losing some width, some light and some pixels.

    Let’s dive in!

    1. Correct exposure

    Correct exposure means getting the balance right between the 3 components of the exposure triangle. Namely: aperture, shutter speed, and ISO. Balancing all three correctly will give you a perfectly exposed image. That means no blown highlights or details are lost entirely in the shadow or darker areas of the image that should still be visible.

    A most useful tool in determining whether your exposure is perfect is to look at the histogram when you are editing. Alternatively, you can view the histogram when you have just taken the photo as there is also a histogram on the LCD of many cameras these days. Simply put, a histogram is a representation of the tonal value distribution across your image in the form of a visual graph. Just by looking at a histogram (that graph on the top right corner of the image below), you can immediately tell whether there is an even spread of tonal values on the image judging from the troughs and crests on the graph or a stark contrast.

    If the image you shot has incorrect exposure, then editing is your solution. You can move the sliders on your editing software to increase exposure if the photo is too dark or decrease your exposure if the photo’s too bright. You can usually recover some blown highlights in the case of overexposure.

    dps-basic-editing-tutorial-color-raw

    Take a look at the image above. This is the RAW image opened in Bridge. You can see it’s a little bright with the histogram showing a tall mountain almost touching the right edge. When the histogram touches both left and right edges, this would indicate the dark and light parts of your images are clipped and therefore there is overexposure and underexposure in the image. This is an okay image as nothing touches the edges, but it is too bright for me.

    The image on the left below shows an overexposed image with the exposure turned up and the image on the right shows an underexposed image with the exposure turned down. See what the histogram is doing in these images.

    dps-basic-editing-tutorial-color-raw

    2. White balance

    Simply put, white balance is the adjustment on your camera that reads the color temperature of the light you are shooting in in relation to neutral white. A perfect white balance should show white to be white as perceived in reality and there are no color casts that distorts the whiteness of white. You can, however, go for a warm white or a cool white by adjusting the white balance sliders. Generally speaking, what you don’t want is for white to look too yellow or orange or too cold like with a strong blue cast. Compare both photos below: too cool on the left and too warm on the right.

    dps-basic-editing-tutorial-color-raw

    3. Contrast

    There is nothing rocket science about contrast in my opinion. It is simply to do with the strength of the blacks on the photo. After the adjustments above, our photo is still looking very flat. All that’s needed is a fiddle on the blacks, shadows, highlights and light areas. Just remember not to clip your blacks or whites or if you want a bit more contrast, not too much clipping. You can also use the curves tab (the one that shows a grid with a curvy line) for contrast adjustments.

    dps-basic-editing-tutorial-finish

    I also played with the other sliders to get the result I wanted on the images above. Just do so gently – a touch here and there rather than extreme adjustments.

    Remember, you are only after a clean edit at this stage. The images above show the same edits on the standard and color profiles. The results are different so deciding on your color profile matters.

    4. Noise and Sharpening

    If you click on to the third tab which shows two black triangles, you get to the panel where you can adjust noise and sharpening. Again, gentle adjustments are needed here.

    It is vital to view your photo at 100% so you can see what the adjustments are doing to the image.

    Luminance has to do with the smoothness of the pixels. You don’t want to go too much, or you lose definition.

    Color has to do with how much the RGB pixels show up and extreme adjustments will either strip your image of color or make the pixels appear too saturated.

    dps-basic-editing-tutorial-sharpening-noise

    Conclusion

    Now I have a clean edit, there is still so much I can do to this photo. The eyes are a tad soft so I will need to adjust that. I could add vignettes or change the appearance of the background. I could add sunflares or textures. The possibilities are endless. But most of that has to happen in Photoshop.

    I hope this has helped you understand the basics of editing.

    Please share your comments below or if you have any questions!

    The post A Short Introduction to Basic Photo Editing for Beginners appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Lily Sawyer.


    Digital Photography School

  • Panasonic Lumix S1R studio scene with high-res mode published

    We’ve been working through our full review of Panasonic’s high-megapixel, full-frame flagship, the Lumix S1R, and have published our studio test scene images from it – including the 187MP high-res mode. It’s, well, quite something. Take a look for yourself and prepare to get well acquainted with every detail of our studio test scene.

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    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Nikon releases firmware version 1.20 for its D500 camera

    Nikon has released firmware version 1.20 for its D500 camera. The firmware update, which comes two years after the camera was initially released, adds the ability to connect via Wi-Fi to devices running SnapBridge (version 2.5.4 or later) and fixes a number of additional issues.

    Specifically, Nikon says it’s addressed an issue where focusing on the edge of the frame wasn’t accurate, a problem where the camera would sometimes stop working while shooting in continuous high-speed release mode and a bug where the camera would sometimes remain on even after the power button was turned to ‘Off.’

    You can download the firmware version 1.20 for the Nikon D500 from Nikon’s website.

    Nikon releases firmware version 1.20 for the D500

    Changes from “C” Firmware Version 1.15 to 1.20

    • The camera can now connect via Wi-Fi to devices running SnapBridge. Before using this feature, upgrade to the following version of the app:

    – SnapBridge version 2.5.4 or later

    • Fixed the following issues:

    – The camera sometimes had trouble focusing on subjects in the focus points at the edges of the frame.
    – The camera would sometimes stop responding during shooting in continuous high-speed (CH) release mode.
    – The camera would sometimes not turn off after the power switch was rotated to “OFF”.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Interview: Commander Terry Virts, space photographer

    Colonel Terry Virts (ret.) is a U.S. Air Force pilot and NASA veteran of two spaceflights – a two-week mission onboard the Space Shuttle Endeavour in 2010 and a 200-day flight to the Space Station in 2014-2015. His seven months in space included piloting the Space Shuttle, commanding the International Space Station, three spacewalks, and performing scientific experiments.

    While in space he took more than 319,000 photos – the most of any space mission. Virts’ book, View From Above, combines some of his best photography with stories about spaceflight and perspectives about life on Earth and our place in the cosmos. His images are also an integral component of the IMAX film A Beautiful Planet, which Virts helped film and in which he appears.


    I understand you were a photographer before you became an astronaut. How did you get started, and why did it interest you?

    As a kid I got a Konica SLR. I had to teach myself exposure, shutter speed, focus, and all that. Basically, I taught myself. Neither of my parents were really photographers, but I just loved it. For some reason I was just naturally inclined towards photography, and my parents supported me by getting the equipment.

    Long story short, I kept up with it. I’m that dad whose kids are like, “Dad, quit taking pictures!” I’m always having to stop and take a picture.

    How did you join the space program, and how did you end up in the role of ‘space photographer’?

    I wanted to be an astronaut since I was a kid. It was just my dream. The first book I read was about Apollo, and I was captured. It’s what I wanted to do, and I had pictures of airplanes and space on my walls. I went through the process of becoming a fighter pilot, a test pilot, and eventually made it into NASA.

    Every astronaut has to take pictures. We get formal training, not only for still images but also video. By the time I flew on the space shuttle we had gone entirely digital, and I got designated as the photo/TV guy. I’m a photographer, and I was lucky enough to fly in space, so I guess that makes me a space photographer.

    Terry Virts’ book, View from Above, includes some of his favorite photos from space, stories about spaceflight, and perspectives about life on Earth and our place in the cosmos.

    You also had a role in filming the IMAX movie ‘A Beautiful Planet.’ How did that come about?

    On my second flight [aboard the ISS] I was a crew medical officer and also a spacewalker, but everybody was a photographer. There was no, “Oh, Terry likes photography, let’s put him up when they’re filming a movie.” Just complete luck of the draw. One day on my calendar before I was in training, it said, “Go to building nine for IMAX training.” I thought, “Hmm, I wonder what it is?” I showed up and the producer and director of photography were there, and I said to myself, “Wow, I get to film an IMAX movie.” There was no thought into it, it just happened.

    The right place at the right time?

    100% right place, right time. Like we say in the Air Force, I’d rather be lucky than good.

    I got to film the movie, and that stuff all went to IMAX, but the stuff I shot for me, that I used in my book, I did as a labor of love. I love photography and wanted to take as many artistic shots as I could.

    I showed up and the producer and director of photography were there, and I said to myself, “Wow, I get to film an IMAX movie.”

    Most photographers know the drill of throwing gear into a bag before a trip, but space travel obviously requires careful planning. How is the photo gear that goes into space selected?

    There are a couple of different ways. There’s NASA equipment, and then there are international partners, like the Japanese and the Europeans, who fly their own equipment. The Russians can get stuff up there really quickly since they don’t have the bureaucracy that we have. They may have less stuff, but if something comes up that they want to fly, they just fly it. NASA has to go through a bureaucratic process and years of approvals.

    For example, there’s the GoPro. The Russians wanted to use it, so they built a little box for it and flew a GoPro. I was able to take it outside on a spacewalk and it was really great. We [the US] didn’t have anything for that, and the process of getting it certified would have been expensive and time-consuming. The Russians just built a box and flew it, and it worked. Now I have this amazingly beautiful footage that we never would have had if we had to wait on it.

    Sample gallery: Terry Virts space photos

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    Click the image above to see a gallery of Terry Virts’ stunning space images.

    Can you give us some insight into what types of cameras are used aboard the ISS?

    The Nikon D4 was my main camera, and now they have D5s, but it’s basically the Nikon professional camera. Then there’s the Canon XF350, which is like a prosumer camcorder, and there are probably 12-15 of those onboard. Each module has one on a bracket. There are another four or five XF350s just velcroed to the wall so that if you need to film something fun or do an experiment, you can do that.

    We also had a camera called a Ghost, which is similar to a GoPro. You could plug it in via HDMI and have it downlinked in real-time to show the ground what you were doing. You could squeeze it into tight places. When three Ghosts showed up, I thought “Cool!” so I kept one for myself and another astronaut wanted one. Literally the next day, the other person lost it. We went months with only two Ghosts and finally, at the end of my mission, I’m thinking, “All right, I’ll call the ground and fess up. Hey Houston, sorry, we can’t find one of the Ghosts.” That afternoon we found it. It had floated underneath a work table and was probably there for months.

    We also had a Panasonic 3D camcorder you could use to film in 3D. I bought myself a 3D TV and tried to film stuff, then nothing happened with it. I don’t even know if NASA ever processed the 3D stuff. I was kind of disappointed about that.

    Astronauts Samantha Cristoforetti and Terry Virts receive IMAX training. Both were part of the team that filmed the IMAX movie A Beautiful Planet.

    NASA photo

    I imagine you also had some cameras for shooting the IMAX film.

    We had a Canon 1DC and C500. The 1DC is a professional camera and the C500 is a Hollywood video camera. Those were used for the IMAX.

    We also had a Red Dragon, which at the time was the first ever ultra-high-def 4K, Hollywood quality video camera. That thing was just awesome. They warned us and warned us that the file size was too big, so nobody used this thing, and towards the end of the mission I decided, “Man, I took all these stills, I want to get the Red out.” I started filming exclusively with the Red for my last week and shot around a terabyte of video. Houston just about died. It took them a week to download it. It was beautiful.

    I was doing a video Skype with [Hollywood director] James Cameron from space, and my crewmate was showing him around and said, “Hey, here’s my crewmate Terry Virts, playing with cameras like he normally is.” I had the Red Dragon, and James looked at it and said, “Oh, I filmed Avatar with that camera.” That was pretty cool.

    This video from the ISS highlights some of the 4K footage shot by Virts and his crewmates on board the space station, and provides a sense of time and motion not conveyed by still photos.

    Do you run into any special equipment challenges in space?

    The big issue you have in space is radiation, and your chips get damaged from radiation. If you ever look at a NASA video and see a bunch of white, blue or green specks that don’t move on a black field they’re radiation-damaged pixels. If they’re moving, they’re stars. Before every IMAX shot, you’re supposed to take a black field image. That would give them data for where the bad pixels were, and they could remove them.

    We would get dust on the chip, but that would only happen after about 100,000 pictures. Basically, we would start seeing that as the shutter went up and down, some of the metal would shave off, so there would be little flecks of metal from the shutter.

    What about lighting?

    Lighting inside is not that big a deal; the internal lighting is not that bad. The problem is, if something was inside and you wanted the Earth exposed at the same time, the camera would need a flash.

    I started filming exclusively with the Red for my last week and shot around a terabyte of video. Houston just about died. It took them a week to download it.

    But for video, you don’t have the equivalent of a flash. We had still lights, but there weren’t enough lumens on them. There was one particular scene in ‘A Beautiful Planet’ when Samantha [Italian astronaut Samantha Cristoforetti] was in the cupola taking pictures, and I was floating towards her, and the white clouds were too bright and just blew out the Earth. In order to get a picture with both the person inside and the Earth properly exposed, we had to be over a jungle because that would be dark green. We waited until we were going over the Amazon, which is white normally, but Samantha was looking and she’s like “All right, here comes a big patch!”

    I started shooting, and then I pushed off. I slowly started moving in towards her, and she was pretending like she was taking pictures. IMAX wanted 30 seconds clips, that was about the standard scene length, and literally at 31 seconds, boom! The background turned into white. It was like a perfectly well-timed shot.

    Commander Virts took this picture of the United States Gulf Coast on Feb. 12, 2015.

    Photo by Terry Virts

    When shooting on a spacewalk, I’m assuming you don’t just put the viewfinder to your eye and shoot.

    Actually, you do! When I was doing my spacewalks it [the camera for spacewalks] was a Nikon D2. You can lift the viewfinder to your face and aim it wherever you want, though I never did. I just pointed it in the right direction. You don’t put a 100mm lens on it, but something like a 24mm. It doesn’t have to be perfectly framed.

    I took over 300,000 photos in space, but on each of my three space walks I took about ten. That just goes to show you how busy I was.

    I took over 300,000 photos in space, but on each of my three spacewalks, I took about ten. That just goes to show you how busy I was. I felt like I was on the clock, so I didn’t have five seconds to stop and take a picture. Plus, the guy I was outside with is one of those people who’s not a photographer, thinks taking pictures is wasting time, and wanted to keep on moving. I just never had time to stop and take the pictures I wanted to take. The problem with taking pictures outside is the time crunch.

    What’s your artistic approach to shooting in space?

    A lot of guys get the zoom lens out. They zoom in on cities at night, and I did some of that, but you can fly over a city and take a picture from an airplane and it looks exactly like the zoom lens from space. My favorite kind of shots were more big picture; Earth and space, and wide angle, rather than the zoom-in. I wanted to get pictures that you couldn’t get from an airplane.

    Most photographers can tell you at least one story about a great shot that got away. Did you experience that?

    One day I let go of my CF card by accident. It floated and I was like, “No!” as I reached for it. It floated right between two racks. There’s got to be a two-millimeter gap between racks, and it literally went right down there and I never saw it again. It was a beautiful night aurora scene. I’m still mad about it, but the other 320,000 pictures I took came out fine.

    One of the 7 wonders of the Earth, the Grand Canyon in the US West photographed from the International Space Station.

    Photo by Terry Virts

    What subjects did you enjoy photographing the most?

    Sunrises and sunsets were my favorite thing. It was probably day 195 out of 200, and Samantha sees me taking another time-lapse of a sunset and says, “Terry, haven’t you taken enough sunsets?” I said, “I still haven’t gotten the perfect one. I just need one more…”

    The photographer’s curse.

    Yes, the perfect shot. Or moonset, right? Moonrise and moonsets were awesome. Those pictures are just amazing. In a good sunset or sunrise, you can see so many details in the clouds. The chip doesn’t capture it like the eye does, but it’s pretty close. I love those pictures.

    So, did you ever get the perfect sunset?

    The very last picture I took in space – I was coming back to Earth in a couple of hours – I wanted to get one more picture. I went down to the Cupola and took off what’s called a scratch pane, which is this piece of plastic that’s supposed to protect the window but all it does is ruin pictures. Whenever you see a sun shot with flared smudge marks it’s just the scratch pane. I closed the aperture to F22 to get a starburst effect, took a picture and looked at it, and I remember thinking as I looked at it on the screen, “That’s the best picture I’ve ever taken in my life. I’m done.” I pulled the CF card out, downlinked it, put my space suit on and came back to Earth. That was the peak of my photography career, it will never get better than that.

    Virts captured this photo of the setting sun just a couple hours before returning to Earth. When he looked at it on the camera’s screen he thought, “That’s the best picture I’ve ever taken in my life. I’m done.”

    Photo by Terry Virts

    Did you take any photos that had an immediate impact back on Earth?

    The most impactful one was the Spock picture. The day before my third spacewalk I get an email, “Hey, Leonard Nimoy passed away. Can you do something?” I’m thinking, “I don’t have any time, I don’t know what I’m supposed to do.” I ran down to the Cupola and tried to get one of those pictures where my Vulcan salute was properly exposed along with the Earth being properly exposed, but you need to have the right flash and a closed [small] aperture for more depth of field.

    I had to get all that stuff set up, fiddled around, probably took 10 or 20 pictures, and finally got one that looked OK. I tweeted it and it got huge instantly – I don’t know how many tens of thousands of likes. It got millions of views. When I travel around the world, people know that tweet. They don’t know it’s me. It wasn’t about me. I just tweeted a picture, and there was no doubt in anybody’s mind what I meant. It was a really cool way to have a tribute to Mr. Spock. What I didn’t know was that that in the background was Boston, Leonard Nimoy’s hometown. Like I said, I’d rather be lucky than good.

    Terry Virts’ tweet honoring Leonard Nimoy and his Star Trek character, Mr. Spock. What Virts didn’t notice until later is that Boston, Nimoy’s hometown, is visible in the background.

    I’ve been learning to photograph the Aurora borealis, but I’m used to doing it from below. What’s it like to photograph the Aurora from above?

    One night I was in the Cupola, hoping for a southern aurora. You never know what you’re going to get; it depends on the sun activity and how close your orbit is to the magnetic pole. I saw this big, giant green cloud. I mean, it was huge. It was way bigger than any I’d ever seen before, and it was right in our orbital path.

    There I was floating, and we flew right through this aurora. Above, below, and to both sides, we were surrounded by green plasma. It was like I was in a J.J. Abrams Star Trek movie when they fly through a nebula. It was totally like that, except that I was floating and it was real, but there were no Klingons, so I was good. But that was the most surreal aurora experience. You could see it moving with your eyes, in real time you could see the waves shimmering. Even though the camera brings the colors out more than your eyes see, my eyes, anyway, saw those colors – a little dimmer and less vibrant, but they were there.

    Crew aboard the ISS have the unique opportunity to see – and photograph – both the Northern and Southern Lights from above, and sometimes fly through them.

    Photo by Terry Virts

    Do you feel that your unique opportunity to work in space gives you any special responsibility as a photographer?

    I do. One night we were having dinner in the Russian segment, and the Russians have this beautiful window, and it was open and you could look down and see the Earth go by. I said, “Look at that guys! There are over six billion people down there and only six of us up here.” We’re one in a billion, that’s how lucky we are.

    It put our fortune, and luck, in context. I feel a duty to share the story. Not only the adventure of space flight but for me, it was more about life on Earth. Space flight is interesting, and fun, and exciting, but the bigger, deeper lessons learned were about the people, and how to treat each other, and life on Earth. I definitely felt a responsibility, and privilege, to share things.

    Has your experience as a space photographer had any impact on the way you photograph back on Earth?

    I always look up. Most people spend their lives looking down at the ground, and I try to look up. To see clouds, to see the sun’s reflection through the atmosphere, rays of sun peeking through clouds, to see the color of blue in the sky, to see birds, or when you’re in a city, you see architectural patterns. I always try to look up, and maybe in some small way, I think of space when I look up.


    For more spectacular space photography follow Terry Virts on Twitter and Instagram.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • RawTherapee 5.6 adds new Pseudo-HiDPI mode, ‘unclipped’ processing and more

    Cross-platform Raw image processing program RawTherapee has announced its most recent update, version 5.6, which brings along new features and tools to improve the image editing experience.

    The flagship feature in RawTherapee 5.6 is new Pseudo-HiDPI support that now makes the interface appear smooth and sharp across various displays regardless of screen size or resolution. The RawTherapee team says Pseudo-HiDPI is enabled by default and uses the font size, DPI and display settings from your computer to to create the best image possible.1

    An illustration provided by RawTherapee highlighting the new Pseudo-HiDPI mode.

    A new ‘Unclipped’ processing profile has also been added ‘to make it easy to save an image while preserving data across the whole tonal range.’ RawTherapee 5.6 also has a new user-adjustable tiles-per-thread setting ‘for users who want to find optimal values for their system.’ Hundreds of other overall improvements have been made as well behind-the-scenes for improved performance.

    RawTherapee is free to download for Linux, macOS and Windows computers. The developers behind RawTherapee have created a helpful Wiki to explain the tools as well as a ‘Getting Started’ article to help kickstart anew users


    1 It’s worth noting though that there have been issues with certain macOS display settings interfering with the Pseudo-HiDPI mode though, so if you run into any issues, it might be best to turn this feature off for the meantime.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Video: COOPH shares 5 inexpensive ideas for macro photography

    Cooperative of Photography (COOPH) has published a video on its YouTube channel that offers viewers five macro photography ideas. The video aims to demonstrate ways to capture striking images without investing in expensive equipment; one idea, for example, includes instructions on transforming an empty chips canister into a flash diffuser.

    The video focuses on ordinary items and elements easily found in the home or office. COOPH demonstrates ways to capture unique textures using things like soap bubbles and sponges, as well as color patterns using prisms and macro still life using ordinary tiny objects like a pen spring. Below is a timestamped list of the specific ideas if you want to skip around.

    0:06 – DIY Macro Diffuser
    1:23 – Textures
    1:52 – Depth of Field
    2:44 – Macro Still Life
    3:09 – Color Macro

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Report: ‘Photographer’ among 2018’s worst jobs due to rise of freelancing, smartphones

    CareerCast has published its 2018 Jobs Rated Report, which provides a ‘general snapshot’ of 220 careers based on certain ‘key criteria,’ including stress levels, work environment, growth outlook, and income. The report lists the best and worst careers of 2018 based on these factors; included in the ‘worst’ category is photography.

    The career of ‘photographer’ is listed as #25 among CareerCast’s ranking of 2018’s worst careers, falling behind other roles like ‘enlisted military personnel,’ ‘newspaper reporter,’ and ‘disc jockey.’ Factors that negatively influence career ranking include high stress levels, danger, low pay, and poor outlook.

    As far as photography goes, CareerCast noted an annual median wage of $ 34,000 for photographers working in the US last year, which is slightly lower than the nation’s median wage across all jobs of $ 37,690. As well, the company projects photography as a career will experience negative growth of -5.6% from 2016 to 2026.

    An increase in smartphones, which make the field more accessible to non-professionals, as well as an uptick in the corporate use of freelancers are cited as issues impacting the career’s projected negative growth over the next decade. As freelancers are increasingly used, the photography industry has seen an elimination of salaried photographer positions.

    In contrast, ‘mathematician,’ ‘genetic counsellor’ and ‘university professor’ are listed among the report’s best careers.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Guidelines for Creating Your Photography Contract

    The post Guidelines for Creating Your Photography Contract appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darina Kopcok.

    Guidelines for Creating Your Photography Contract

    If you’re any level of a photographer working with clients, you need to have a contract.

    When photo jobs go awry, it’s often due to a lack of communication.

    A contract protects not only you but also your client in the event of any unmet expectations.

    Here are some inclusions you may want to consider.

    Who is the agreement between?

    First of all, you need to state clearly who the contract is between and identify each party. You can identify yourself as “the Company”, and your client as “the Client.” The photo shoot itself can be referred to as “the Event.”

    Note that the agreement supersedes any prior agreements between the parties, and that the only way to add to the agreement is to do so in writing, and that this amendment must be signed by both parties.

    In short, if anything changes between the signing of the agreement and shoot day, you’ll need another contract.

    What are the reservations?

    You should have a section on your contract about the Reservations.

    This means you note the date the shoot is scheduled for, and your policies about rescheduling, postponement and cancellation.

    Make sure the client is very clear on the consequences of any of these changes.

    For example, many photographers require a 50% non-refundable deposit in case of cancellation, so they don’t miss out on potential work that could have been booked that day.

    Photography Contract - Darina Kopcok-DPS

    Safety

    I recommend having a section that notes that you as the photographer/company have the right to terminate coverage and leave the location if you experience inappropriate, threatening, hostile or offensive behaviour from a person at the event that calls your safety into question. This may be a rare occurrence, but it’s worth putting into your contract so you can assert your rights in case you’re a victim in an unsafe situation.

    This could be relevant to a female wedding photographer being harassed by drunken guests, for example.

    Shooting time and additions

    Note that shooting time commences at the scheduled start time and ends at the scheduled time, regardless of when the client shows up. If a client is very late, then the shoot goes to the agreed upon time and no later.

    I also highly recommend that if you’re a commercial photographer, that you state clearly that the client or a representative from their company must attend the shoot to provide creative direction and approve the final images.

    You’re not responsible for the final aesthetic if they are not there to provide feedback and approval.

    Furthermore, reserve the right to cancel the shoot and retain the deposit if the client or their representative does not attend.

    Seriously. This happens.

    Photography Contract -Darina Kopcok-DPS

    Expenses incurred

    This is where you might note that there could be additional expenses incurred that may not be part of the original quote, such as parking, props on a fashion or product shoot, or groceries on a food shoot.

    These kinds of expenses are usually TBD (to be determined) and not part of the initial estimate. This should be made clear up-front so you don’t end up taking a cut from your earnings to cover these things.

    Responsibilities

    You are responsible for a lot on a shoot, but certain things are unforeseen and out of your control. Things such as obtrusive staff, lateness of the client and staff, the weather, schedule complications, incorrect addresses provided by the client, or restrictions of the chosen location.

    Venue and Location Limits

    Unless you’re shooting at your studio or a rental, the client is usually responsible for providing an appropriate place for the photographic work to take place.

    If the venue is found to be limited in space or otherwise hinders you from carrying out your work in a safe manner (or one that doesn’t allow you to produce the desired result), reserve the right to request moving to another location or cancel the shoot without penalty.

    Permits

    Who is responsible for securing permits?

    The second you put a tripod down in a public place, you can very likely get asked to move along by a police officer or other type of city official. This can be disastrous on a commercial shoot where the location has been scouted and is essential to the storyboard or narrative of the final images.

    Permits can take some time to secure, so keep this in mind if this job falls on you.

    Photography Contract -Darina Kopcok-DPS

    Film & copyright

    The photography you produce for a client still belongs to you, as the creator of those images. A lot of clients think the images belong to them because they are paying you money to produce them. They need to be educated on copyright.

    In the commercial world, clients commission you to produce photos that align with their brand. They then pay you a separate fee to license those images for a specific use and time frame.

    You should have a separate Usage Agreement in addition to your contract that outlines usage parameters.

    Limit of liability

    In the unlikely event that you are not able to perform to the guidelines laid out in the contract due to injury, illness, an “act of God,” or another event outside of your control, you should not be held responsible.

    You should, however, make every effort to reschedule the shoot. If this isn’t possible, then ordinarily all payment received for the event should be returned.

    If digital files are lost, stolen, or destroyed beyond your control, including but not limited to hard drive or equipment malfunction, your liability is to return all payments.

    The limit liability for a partial loss of originals should be a prorated amount of exposures lost based on the percentages of the total number of originals.

    Capture and delivery

    You are not liable to deliver every image taken at an event or shoot.

    The number of final files to be delivered is up to the photographers discretion or is based on an agreement made between the photographer and client before the signing of the contract.

    In this section, you can make a note of when you’ll be delivering the files by and how they will be delivered, such as JPG or TIFF files.

    Photography Contract -Darina Kopcok-DPS

    Post-production and editing

    The final post-production and editing styles, effects, and overall aesthetic of the image are at your discretion unless you’re working on a specific type of job where the editing will be done in-house, say by a magazine or ad agency.

    Nothing is worse than working hard on editing and then having clients put crazy Instagram filters on your images. Prohibit any alteration to your photographs unless there is an agreement with the client as to what those alterations will be, like putting text on a photo.

    Payment schedule

    If you’re asking for a deposit (and I hope you are), make sure to put that in your contract.

    How you manage payment for the remainder is up to you. Many photographers allow thirty days for receipt, however, any late payment after that is subject to interest – usually 15-18%.

    Also, note a policy around any NSF charges and if there are any consequences the client needs to be aware of in terms of not paying on time.

    For example, you can state in your contract that non-payment after three months is subject to legal action.

    Pricing

    At the end of the agreement, I suggest that you lay out the agreed upon pricing.

    If you don’t have a separate usage agreement, you can include the usage terms here.

    For my commercial work, I typically don’t give my clients a usage agreement until the images have been paid for in full and prohibit the use of my images until then.

    I find this works well for me. Clients should not be using your images publicly unless they have paid for them, or it is a violation of your copyright.

    I even state this term on my invoices and draw their attention to this in my email communication upon sending it.

    Some clients can take a long time to pay you unless you draw specific boundaries around payment and the use of your images.

    Photography Contract -Darina Kopcok-DPS

    Signature field

    There should be an area where both you and the client can sign and date the contract.

    It’s best if you use electronic signature software such as Hello Sign so that clients don’t have to spend their time physically downloading and scanning a signed contract back to you. Everyone is busy, right?

    If you use a CRM software, it may already offer such a feature. For example, I use Dubsado, which is a CRM system for creatives. I can send clients emails and contracts directly from within the user interface.

    I have all the other features of a client management system for around the same price I would have to pay for signature software alone.

    In Conclusion

    Hopefully, this has given you some idea of what you can put in your contract.

    Be sure that your contracts are dated and signed before you consider a job booked.

    Go over them with the client and make sure the terms and conditions are understood. A lot of people don’t bother to read stuff before they sign it and you don’t want to deal with any surprises.

    Please note that this post is for educational purposes only and doesn’t constitute legal advice, as I am not a lawyer and cannot advise in that capacity.

    To make sure that any or your contract or written agreements are legally binding, and will cover you in an event of a discrepancy, please contact an attorney.

    The post Guidelines for Creating Your Photography Contract appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darina Kopcok.


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  • Huawei P30 Pro video teardown lets us peek inside the 5x periscope-style tele lens

    We have already seen reports on the components used in the Huawei P30 Pro’s innovative multi-camera setup. Thanks to a new video-teardown by Youtuber JerryRigEverything we are now getting a very detailed look at the camera and especially the periscope-style 5x tele lens and its internal components.

    Looking at the video it is quite impressive how Huawei has managed to squeeze this much technology into the P30 Pro’s thin smartphone body, particularly considering that the huge 4200 mAh is taking up a large proportion of the available space.

    The only way to achieve a 5x optical zoom factor was to install the tele-module sideways inside the phone, using a 90-degree mirror to divert incoming light into the lens and onto the sensor. The Huawei is the first phone to use this technology but most certainly not the last. Unfortunately the tele-lens is being sacrificed in the process of recording the video but given the close looks we are getting at the internals it’s all worth it.

    Fast forward to 5:36 in the video if you want to jump directly to the section about the camera module.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • 7 Steps to Perfect White Portrait Backgrounds in the Studio

    The post 7 Steps to Perfect White Portrait Backgrounds in the Studio appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by John McIntire.

    Photographing subjects on a white background is one of those things that looks easy from the outside. However, once you start digging into the details, it turns out it’s not quite as simple as it seemed at first glance.

    Unfortunately, being able to shoot on a white background is one of the most useful skills for you to have in all sorts of photography including portraits and still life. Even if you hate it stylistically, you will eventually have plenty of people ask you for a pure white background.

    When you get the technique right, there are a whole host of things you can easily do with your photos, such as cutting your subjects out for composites. Even when your technique isn’t perfect, there are a host of post-processing options to get you, and your images, there in the end.

    However, this article outlines a process to help you get perfect results straight out of the camera every time. If you’re handling a high volume of images – whether that be portraits or products – this may save you countless hours in post-production.

    What you need

    You will need a few lights for this technique. In this example, there are three lights and a reflector.

    To get started with shooting on a white backdrop in a studio, you will need a few things.

    • At least two studio strobes with modifiers or flashguns (three or four would be preferable and will make your life easier). Softboxes are the easiest option for your background lights.
    • A light-colored backdrop. White is preferable, but this technique will work easily with anything up to mid-grey. It is more than possible to do it with darker backdrops but to avoid complications, stay light when you can.
    • Space. You will need space to get the best results. As described below, you will need to keep enough room between your subject and the background to help prevent spill from the background lights falling on your subject. For portraits, this could easily take ten to fifteen feet of space in addition to the distance you are from the subject. For smaller subjects, space is much less of an issue.
    • (Optional) A light meter. Because we’re dealing with moderately precise ratios, a light meter will help you here. You can get by without one, but it does make it easier.

    Step One – Choose your aperture

    Before you do anything with your lights or your subject, the first step in this process is to choose the aperture you want to shoot at. This choice is going to be the basis for everything else you do in this process. Anything from f/8 to f/4 is a good bet for studio portraits, but you can choose anything you like. Your only real limitation here is the power output of your lights.

    If you choose f/11, then your backgrounds lights will need to be set at least two stops brighter, which would be f/22. You may struggle to achieve that with low-powered strobes. If that’s the case, then you will have to choose a larger aperture for your final image.

    For the remainder of this article, the chosen aperture will be f/5.6.

    Step Two – Light your background

    When lighting your background, take the time to ensure that it is evenly lit. This will ensure that all of your background is white with no darker tones creeping into the sides and corners.

    Once you know your aperture, the next step is to set up your background light(s). If you can, use large, directional modifiers like softboxes. This will help prevent excess light spilling where you don’t want it. It will also help to ensure that the background is evenly lit from top to bottom, preventing any inconsistencies in exposure in your final images.

    Place your lights on either side of your backdrop and pointed towards it at a forty-five-degree angle. Try to position them so that you get even coverage.

    Step three – Set the exposure for your background lights

    The easiest way to find the exposure for you background is to use a light meter. Don’t worry if you don’t have one, you can still chimp the histogram to make sure it’s overexposed.

    With your lights positioned, all you have to do is set the power so that the camera will record your background as pure white. Your background needs to be at least two or three stops brighter than your subject. Because the hypothetical aperture we’re using is f/5.6, that means the backgrounds lights should be at f/16 for three stops of exposure difference.

    If you’re using a meter, be sure to check the exposure at the top and bottom of the background and not just the middle.

    Step four – Place your subject for a test

    On the left, the subject is too close to the background and the light is wrapping around her and lighting her front. Placed a few feet further away, the subject is rendered as a silhouette. (The detail in the darker image is from the overhead fluorescent that I hadn’t turned off yet.)

    To figure out where your subject needs to stand, or be placed, put them in front of the background and take a test shot with only the background lights on. If they are far enough away from the background, your subject should be in perfect silhouette, and there should be no light falling on them or wrapping around them in any way.

    Where there is light falling on your subject, just move them further away from the backdrop until you achieve that perfect silhouette.

    If your exposure is right, you should have no details in your background and no details in your subject.

    Because you are lighting a white (therefore reflective) surface, your background is effectively a light source and acts like one. The light from your backgrounds will fall off at a rate governed by the inverse square law. What you are trying to do is to place your subject in a place where the light level drops enough that it has no effect on your subject at your desired aperture.

    Step four (part 2) – Flag your background lights

    To ensure light isn’t going where you don’t want it, flag your background lights. Here, I’ve used black fabric and covered all but the section of background that will be in the photos.

    It may be that you can’t achieve a perfect silhouette of your subject for some reason. This issue can arise from not having enough space to work in, or it could be that your modifiers are producing too much spill. One way to combat this is to flag your lights.

    Flagging simply means to block light from where you don’t want it. You can do this in any way that you want. V-flats and black curtains (as in the example images) are both cheap and effective ways to flag your light.

    Simply place your preferred flags in a manner that blocks excess light from coming back towards the camera, but doesn’t interfere with the part of the background that will wind up in your composition.

    Step 5 – Place your key light

    Once the background lights are done, you can light your subject in any way you want.

    Now that your background is lit and you know where your subject needs to be, you just need to light your subject. All you have to do is place your light any way that you desire (any lighting pattern will work), and set the power to your desired aperture (f/5.6 in the examples).

    Unlike the background lights, you don’t have to worry about what any excess light from your key light is doing. Because you are so far away from the background with a light set to a much lower power, it will have little to no effect on the final exposure of the background. However, do pay attention to what the light is doing off to the sides. If it’s firing into a nearby white wall or another light-colored surface, then that surface will act as a reflector in your images.

    Step 6 – Add fill (optional)

    Use fill lighting to reduce the impact of heavy shadows in your images. You can use another light if you wish, or a reflector as shown here.

    If you want to add a fill light to your set-up, you can now do that as normal. You can fill with another strobe, or you can use a reflector as shown in the example images. The main thing to remember about fill light is that it should be at least one stop lower in power than your key light.

    Step 7 – Check your final exposure

    With everything set-up, you should have a perfect white background straight out of the camera.

    With everything in place, take a test shot at your desired aperture. If your key and fill lights are in your desired position, everything should be spot on and you should now have an image with a perfectly white background straight out of the camera.

    That’s it

    This isn’t a hard technique, but it does require a fair few steps and a lot of attention to detail. Don’t be put off by any of that. Once you’ve set it up a few times, it will become second nature very quickly. You will also be able to learn how to set it up in a few minutes, potentially saving you a ridiculous amount of time post-processing backgrounds that aren’t perfectly white.

    The post 7 Steps to Perfect White Portrait Backgrounds in the Studio appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by John McIntire.


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