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  • Nikon issues technical service advisory for VR issue in certain Z6, Z7 camera units

    Nikon has issued a technical service advisory for a number of Z6 and Z7 cameras regarding an issue where Nikon’s Vibration Reduction (VR) technology ins’t fully functioning on particular units.

    Nikon doesn’t elaborate on what’s causing the issue with the VR malfunction in the affected Z6 and Z7 cameras, but says it will repair affected devices free of charge, including the cost of shipping, even if the warranty on the camera has expired.

    A screenshot of the Z7 serial number checker website.

    To aid in determining if your unit is an affected one, Nikon has set up dedicated webpages where you can enter your Nikon Z6 and/or Nikon Z7 serial numbers and see if it’s affected and covered by the advisory. No specific serial number ranges have been presented, so the only way to find out is to use the dedicated webpages.

    If your camera is affected, the webpage will provide instructions on how to get your camera(s) repaired. If your camera is experiencing VR issues and isn’t recognized by Nikon’s serial number checker, Nikon requests you go through its support platform to address the issue.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Voigtländer Nokton 21mm F1.4 Aspherical lens for E-mount officially announced

    Voigtländer has officially announced its 21mm F1.4 Nokton lens for the Sony E mount after showing the concept at the CP+ show in February. The company says the lens will have electronic contacts to transfer EXIF data to the camera and distance information from the lens will help the camera’s image stabilization system. Turning the focus ring on the manual focus lens will activate focus assist modes in the camera, and the aperture ring offers click-less operation for those shooting videos.

    The lens is constructed of 13 elements in 11 groups, features a 12-blade aperture diaphragm, has a minimum aperture of F16 and a shortest focus distance of 0.25m. It weighs 560g, measures 70.5mm x 79.5mm (2.78in x 3.13in) and takes a 62mm filter. Below is a (nowhere near full-res) gallery of sample images provided by Voigtländer:

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    The Voigtländer Nokton 21mm F1.4 will be available in June for ¥165,000 (approx. $ 1,500).
    For more information see the Voigtländer website.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Advising Clients What to Wear for a Photo Shoot

    The post Advising Clients What to Wear for a Photo Shoot appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Lily Sawyer.

    Outfits can make or break a photo shoot. No matter how beautiful your photos are, if the outfits aren’t right it can affect the look and feel of the photographs.

    I wouldn’t have said this before, but now I know from experience.

    1 - Advising Clients What to Wear for a Photo Shoot

    Before each photo shoot, I send my client an article and encourage them to read it. I then ask them to send me some of their outfit ideas so we can discuss their choices. The client plays the most important role in the photo shoot, and so while I offer advice on what to wear, I  also like to tailor their photo shoot to match their preferences and personalities.

    Here are some factors that help my client and I come to a decision on the right outfits for a successful photo shoot. Naturally, the outfits need to be right for the client. But they also need to be right for you as the photographer.

    2 - Advising Clients What to Wear for a Photo Shoot

    Type of photoshoot

    Chances are you already know this from the booking and/or your niche (if you have one). But in case you don’t, here are some photo shoots you may be asked to do:

    • Family (immediate family, perhaps with a couple of grandparents added)
    • Children (just the kids, sometimes with cousins included)
    • Siblings (brothers and sisters or multiples e.g. twins)
    • Three generations (e.g. grandmother, mother, daughter)
    • Engagement, love shoot or couple shoot
    • Newborn or babies
    • Valentine, anniversary
    • Activity-based (sports, event, themed)
    • Clan (bigger family shoots to include extended family, several families together)
    • Birthday, cake smash
    • Lifestyle (usually more informal)
    • Portrait (usually more formal)
    • Corporate

    3 - Advising Clients What to Wear for a Photo Shoot

    Type of client

    From my experience, clients generally fall into one of two types: styled or casual.

    Styled clients think about every detail of their shoot including:

    • the look and feel they want
    • the color scheme, location, and any props they want to use
    • makeup and accessories
    • the final outcome of their shoot in terms of products and what they do with them.

    Casual clients just want some memories captured, usually showcasing their usual attires and what they do as a family. They’re not too fussed about location or outfits, they just want lovely photos of their family or themselves and have the digital files stored safely so they can print them whenever they want.

    In both cases, I still try to get together with them to discuss their outfits and plan the photo shoot.

    Theme or no theme

    When it comes to themes, the possibilities are limitless. But I always advise my clients to narrow it down to a handful of choices and keep things simple within their chosen theme. For me, a theme just provides context. The focus is still the client looking good in their photographs, looking natural in the context, and loving the way they look in them.

    Keeping it simple is best.

    4 - Advising Clients What to Wear for a Photo Shoot

    Location of the shoot

    Rather than talk about differences between studio and outdoor locations (which are pretty obvious), I want to focus on what’s important when choosing outdoor locations to fit a client’s outfits and vice versa.

    If they’ve put a lot of work into choosing outfits (and perhaps props), a location that provides a simple but effective background will work best. So having outfits that suit the location is crucial.

    If you’re shooting in a busy location (e.g. city, market, funfair) where you can’t avoid being surrounded by people, I’d suggest plain, non-printed outfits. This will help you isolate your clients so they’re still the focus amidst the busy setting. When I shoot in these locations, I sometimes blur the background or drag the shutter to blur everything but the client.

    5 - Advising Clients What to Wear for a Photo Shoot

    If the location is a park where you can find a quiet spot and use trees, foliage or sky as the background, then they can wear florals and busy patterns. You can isolate them by blurring the background when shooting so you get creamy bokeh in a very shallow depth of field.

    You can also do silhouettes. This works well if they’re wearing outfits that are similar to each other (e.g. simple jackets or trench coats).

    Here are some other locations you could choose:

    • a brick wall (or any textured surface) large enough to be the background
    • large murals
    • alcoves
    • corners
    • an old building
    • a row of pillars that would work for background.

    While I try to minimize stark contrast within the outfits themselves, I try to maximize the contrast between the outfits and the location. In other words, plain outfits in busy locations and busy outfits in plain locations.

    6 - Advising Clients What to Wear for a Photo Shoot

    Time of the year

    This is pretty self-explanatory, except I want to add one word: options. I encourage my clients to have a change of outfits in case they want a different look. Some take up the offer, while others don’t. The weather in the UK can change quite dramatically. In autumn and spring, we can have all four seasons in one day.

    So during this time, I encourage my clients to dress in layers. If the sun comes out they can take a layer off. If it rains we can do some shots with an umbrella. If we’re suddenly plunged into winter, we can add a couple of layers for a cozy look in a cafe, complete with hot chocolate topped with marshmallows.

    But make sure you factor the weather, outfits and any activities (boating, cycling, etc.) into your shoot so you don’t run over time.

    Your style/niche

    You may have been told you should have a niche, and shoot only within that niche. That’s a nice ideal, but it isn’t true (or easy) for everyone. Sure, some people may not be your ideal client. But if they like your pictures, want you to photograph them and will pay you for it, would you turn them down?

    And while you may not showcase their photos on your blog because of the niche and brand you’re trying to build, if they don’t mind then why not do it? Yes, the photos in your portfolio, on your website and in your social media messages will help you attract those ideal clients. But here I’m talking about those who want you to photograph them regardless.

    7 - Advising Clients What to Wear for a Photo Shoot

    General outfit advice

    Bearing all of this in mind, here’s my general advice regarding outfits.

    Classic: Timeless style, chinos, khakis, beige and blues, nature-hues, pastels, shirts, and simple dresses.

    Florals and prints: Just florals, or an eclectic mix of prints and patterns. Pairing them with stripes can also work sometimes.

    Colors: Keep them complementary as opposed to completely matching (e.g. all white shirts and blue jeans). Avoid stark contrasts such as green and orange/red together, and yellows and purples juxtaposed. Complementary colors are more like warm tones (yellows, oranges, pinks, warm red and even warm greens) together and cool tones (blues, purples, greens) together. But an explosion of bright colors could also work, although I’d shoot it on a plain background or setting.

    Consistency: Avoid extreme differences (e.g. one person is wearing a casual knitted chunky sweater and the other is wearing a nice silky dress). It can be quite jarring. Black and white is another combination that’s too stark a contrast unless it’s done intentionally.

    Dark, light and bright: Darks for adults, and lights or brights for small children. Do it the other way and the adults will dominate the scene and draw the viewer’s attention, while the smaller people will disappear.

    dps-what-to-advise-clients-photoshoot-outfits

    We all have our own personal preferences and styles. These are mine, but if you have other ideas for your photo shoots that’s okay.

    If you have any other helpful advice, please share it with us in the comments.

     

    The post Advising Clients What to Wear for a Photo Shoot appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Lily Sawyer.


    Digital Photography School

  • The Camera Store employees were attacked with bear spray during robbery

    The Camera Store, located in Calgary, Alberta, has reported a camera theft incident that involved an attack on staff using bear (capsaicin) spray. The incident took place on May 16 at around 5PM local time, according to the company, which says the thief took off with a Sony A7R III camera and Sony 16-35mm F2.8 G Master lens.

    The thief is described as a middle-aged man wearing a grey jacket, dark pants, sunglasses, and light running shoes. The Camera Store’s Evelyn Drake said in a post on the company’s blog, ‘We knew there was something ‘off’ about him since the moment he walked in, and our team was on high alert.’

    As the security footage shared on YouTube shows, the man attempted to run away with the camera and the store’s employees took off after him. To evade them, the thief sprayed two of the employees with bear spray before fleeing in a black pickup truck.

    ‘Although it is not our policy to chase down thieves, the loyalty and bravery of the staff who risked their safety are commendable,’ Drake said.

    The stolen Sony A7R III camera body has the serial number 3372445 and the stolen lens has the serial number 1803243. The Camera Store is seeking reports from anyone who finds the products for sale or who has knowledge about the theft.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Google suspends Android updates and support for Huawei, Intel & Microsoft join in

    With devices like its recent P30 Pro flagship smartphone Huawei has managed to established itself as one of the prime manufacturers and a major innovator in the mobile imaging space within a very short period of time.

    However, it looks like the company’s meteoric rise could be slowed significantly over the coming months. Over the weekend Reuters reported that the maker of the Android mobile operating system that runs on pretty much all Huawei mobile devices, will stop working with Huawei on future Android updates and device certifications. The move is a reaction to an executive order signed by US president Donald Trump and a resulting U.S. Commerce Department blacklist which prohibits US companies to do business with certain foreign entities, including Huawei.

    Huawei is accused by the Trump accusation to work with the Chinese Government to install backdoors in its network equipment for spying purposes.

    Companies on the blacklist are barred from purchasing equipment from U.S. companies without prior government approval. Previously Huawei devices had already been dropped by US network carriers under political pressure. Huawei is accused by the Trump accusation to work with the Chinese Government to install backdoors in its network equipment for spying purposes. However, no proof of such practices has been published so far.

    The latest development is problematic for Huawei’s device division in so far that it relies on Google for access to closed portions of the Android OS and the Play Services suite. The latter has to be approved for each new Android device. According to the reports Play Services won’t be removed from existing devices but no new certifications will be issued.

    That said, Huawei will be able to continue to use Android’s open-source components. The company uses Android’s open source libraries (AOSP) to build the core codebase for its EMUI mobile platform and release software updates in China, where Google Play services are not available.

    Huawei has issued an official response to the developments, saying it will continue to provide security updates to all Huawei and Honor devices:

    ‘Huawei has made substantial contributions to the development and growth of Android around the world. As one of Android’s key global partners, we have worked closely with their open-source platform to develop an ecosystem that has benefitted both users and the industry.

    Huawei will continue to provide security updates and after-sales services to all existing Huawei and Honor smartphone and tablet products, covering those that have been sold and that are still in stock globally.

    We will continue to build a safe and sustainable software ecosystem, in order to provide the best experience for all users globally.

    Plus, nothing has changed for HONOR. We will be having our exciting launch event tomorrow in London for HONOR 20 Series.’

    Google has also confirmed that Google Play services and Play Protect will continue to work on existing Huawei devices via a tweet:

    Today a range of other US companies have joined Google in severing ties with Huawei. According to a report by Bloomberg Intel, Qualcomm, and Broadcom will stop supplying their chips and modems to Huawei. Nikkei reports the same for German chipmaker Infineon Technologies and US memory chip suppliers Micron Technology and Western Digital. There is no word from Microsoft yet but the software company is expected to cease supply of its Windows operating system for Huawei’s range of laptops.

    Huawei is quite well protected against some of those impacts as the company is designing and manufacturing chipsets, modems and many other components in-house. It is also reported that the company has been stockpiling chips from US suppliers in anticipation of the current events. Supplies are said to last three months which hopefully should be enough time to solve the situation.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Documentary reveals how some Instagram influencers game the system

    Dutch public broadcaster VPRO has published a documentary called ‘#followme’ that details the hidden reality behind fake Instagram accounts and how they become popular. The documentary, which was filmed in a vertical orientation for a primarily mobile audience, is around 49 minutes long and available to stream for free on Instagram and YouTube.

    The film ‘#followme’ details the big business fueling faux Instagram success, including the sale of followers to make an account appear more popular than it is, the staging of photos and videos designed to look spontaneous, and how motivated users game the platform’s algorithm to climb in rank.

    Instagram has faced increased criticism over its alleged role in fear of missing out (FOMO) and other negative mental health effects, including from some influencers who have shed light on the often fake nature of many Instagram accounts. The social network may be planning big changes that address some of these concerns, however. Earlier this month, the company confirmed that it has been testing hidden like counts and that it may introduce the change across the platform.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • CP+ 2019 Ricoh interview: Some users who bought mirrorless cameras will return to DSLRs

    Hiroki Sugahara from Ricoh’s Marketing Communication Department and Takashi Arai from Ricoh’s Product Planning Department

    The CP+ 2019 trade show in Yokohama, Japan gave us the chance to meet a variety of senior executives from all the major camera makers. We spoke to a group of senior figures from Ricoh about the full cross-section of the company’s photographic range, with the answers mainly coming from:

    • Hiroki Sugahara – General Manager, Marketing Communication Department
    • Hiraku Kawauchi – Group Leader, PR, Marketing Communication Department

    Please note that this interview was conducted partly via an interpreter, and has been edited for clarity and flow.

    What has the response to the GR III been like, so far?

    Very positive. This is not the first time we’ve disclosed the appearance and specifications, but this is the very first chance our customers have had to touch and use it. Even though they know the specifications, the purpose to come here is to touch and try, for example to experience the operability of the touchscreen or the performance of the macro capabilities.

    From what I’ve seen and heard, the reaction is very good. Especially the operability of the touchscreen, which customers consider a positive. The shake reduction, the 24MP sensor or performance of the lens are features that our customers already knew from the specification sheet. But the quick response of the touchscreen seems very well accepted.

    What was the logic behind the decision to use a unit-focus design for the GR III’s lens (that tends to slow down autofocus)?

    The big priority is to make the camera body as compact as possible while retaining good resolving power of the lens.

    Does the switch to phase-detection bring enough of a speed increase to overcome the challenge of moving a comparative heavy lens design?

    The speed of the focusing is improved. But we’d also like to draw attention to the fact that you can now focus from 10cm to infinity, rather than 30cm to infinity, as on GR II. That range of scanning is broadened. This can sometimes give the impression of slower focus but the overall speed is faster than with GR II.

    Is there room in your lineup for a sister model that isn’t 28mm, or maybe other adapter lenses?

    One thing is for sure, we haven’t only made 28mm lenses: we did have a 21mm GR lens in the past, and we did have a 50mm equivalent [module] for the GXR. I feel this is also interesting: to have a sister model with other focal lengths.

    But the important thing with this camera was that it should be fast enough and compact enough to be considered ‘GR.’ If we could achieve that with other focal lengths, that would be interesting.

    Ricoh currently makes a wide range of products: Pentax DSLRs, the GR and WG compacts and the Theta series, are there any other niches you see existing or do you think there’s room to grow within these four areas?

    On top of this we have 645Z, so already we have enough formats. We’re currently working on these categories of products.

    We’ve seen a lot of movement away from DSLR to Mirrorless (by manufacturers), do you feel there are still types of photography better-suited to DSLR?

    Currently mirrorless, especially full-frame mirrorless, is a movement. So many users are interested in this new category of camera: full-frame mirrorless. Mirrorless itself has its own benefits [and] appealing point to the users: they can check their images before hitting the shutter button, through the EVF. But on the other hand, DSLRs have their own benefits: users can enjoy the beautiful image through the optical viewfinder and then imagine different ways of taking photos using different settings, they can imagine the consequence of taking the picture.

    I imagine, in two or three years, some users who bought mirrorless cameras will return to DSLRs

    We have been studying various possibilities when it comes to development, but we believe both mirrorless and DSLR have their own appeal. I imagine, in two or three years, some users who bought mirrorless cameras will return to DSLRs or choose to use both systems, because each has its own benefits.

    How do you prioritize which lenses to work on next, for K-mount? When do you plan a completely new lens, when do you replace an existing one?

    We have a lineup with many lenses, particularly APS-C optimized lenses. Actually, in the industry, our number of APS-C-optimized lenses is number one. Our DA lens series and also the ‘Limited’ series of lenses, which gives a unique level of image quality for the enthusiast photographer. We also have the star lenses: we’re going to develop an 85mm F1.4 lens, so we are releasing very high quality lenses. And also APS-C optimized lenses like the 11-18mm F2.8. We will continue to release various series.

    In spring, we released the 35mm F2 HD-coated lens, which is a modification of a conventional lens, so we’ll continue to do this kind of modification as well.

    You mentioned the 645Z. We’re still seeing cameras launched with a similar sensor, many years after you did, so we understand it has a longer lifespan, but is that series still part of your plans?

    Of course. We are continuing to develop the 645 series. We are pursuing higher picture quality for the system because users have high expectations of image quality.

    [The representatives would not be drawn over whether these efforts were focused on better lenses or increased pixel counts]

    When you’re designing a lens, do you see any tensions between needs of stills and video requirements? How do you strike that balance?

    The overall priority is still image quality, but we do have the 55-300mm lens, which is designed to work well with the movie feature by including electromagnetic aperture control. So we continue to care about the movie performance as we design new lenses.

    What were the challenges of including larger sensors in a Theta – for the previous generation there were concerns about being able to offer 4K, now you’ve done it with bigger systems.

    It’s partly down to our heat management system: we use a metal body in the Theta Z1 unlike the Theta V, which had a plastic body. The Z1 uses a magnesium alloy, which is a better heat conductor, so we can manage the heat well.

    In terms of space, first of all, we had to change the size. We also use three pairs of prisms, rather than two pairs: we changed the position of the sensor and how we bend the light to them.

    The larger sensors on the Theta Z1 now sit further down in the body, facing out towards the sides of the body, whereas they were previously mounted on either side of the lens, facing inwards.

    The larger sensor requires a longer focal length. There was the risk that using more prisms would lower the image quality but the design we came up with performs very well.

    The body has got slightly thicker, did you need a wider angle-of-view to give plenty of overlap between the two cameras?

    The angle-of-view is actually the same, but the minimum focus distance has increased. It’s now 40cm instead of 10cm. The angle-of-view was already more than 180 degrees, so we didn’t have to make it wider to give sufficient overlap.

    What do you think is the most exciting new feature of the Z1?

    We focused a lot on the image quality, to make it much, much better than previously possible. We really wanted to make sure that people used to DSLR image quality and professionals could use the Theta. We wanted to ensure it was suitable for creative and professional use.

    Who is using Theta and what for?

    There are two groups: consumers and business users. Some people are enjoying taking 360 degree images, editing and posting to Instagram. Currently our users are enjoying taking the video 4K 360 image and converting it to a 2D image: the editing software lets them choose the angle, or zoom in or out and post to sites such as YouTube. This is often in the same situations where you might use an action camera, like a GoPro.

    Also, we see an equal number of users traveling and taking a 360 video image with a selfie stick, at a viewpoint, for instance. Then, when they get home, they can enjoy the memory of their travel, with a VR image. That’s [a typical consumer use-case].

    In terms of business, it’s especially the real estate and second-hand car sales areas, and also in construction and inspection. There are many business users who can utilize this 360 image for recording or communicating a specific situation or image.

    Is there some overlap between this and the G-series of industrial camera?

    The G-series are waterproof cameras: They’re normal cameras, essentially. For an all-around image, the Theta is the better option: it brings additional possibilities. Those business-to-business customers will certainly benefit from the improved image quality of the Z1. They don’t need more video quality, necessarily, but they need the higher still image quality.

    What is the unifying feature or quality that Ricoh brings to customers of GR, WG, 645, K and Theta?

    We’re trying to make the operating system the same, the G-series, the GR series, WG and DSLRs are coming together. Even though the brands are different, the way of handling the camera is becoming more similar. Of course Theta is something different.

    Are there any lessons you’ve learned from Theta that you can apply to your other cameras?

    Our current Wi-Fi software is now essentially the same as it is in Theta. We have a specialized Wi-Fi app for GR, but we are looking to bring them together and introduce the same Wi-Fi software for GR, Theta and DSLR.

    Also, we already use DNG Raw so that they’re compatible with Adobe Lightroom. But we also have stitching plugins for Lightroom that will stitch multiple images. This will have the same algorithm as the Theta, for stitching. But by making it in a plugin for Lightroom, professional photographers will already be familiar with the environment: their workflow doesn’t have to change.


    Editor’s note:

    As you might expect, a lot of Ricoh’s attention at present is on the GR III but this interview really brought home to me how much work’s gone into the Theta Z1. Ricoh always says the Theta has been a real success for them, and it’s certainly a distinctive product in a way you don’t often encounter in the photo industry.

    But, while all the models have looked very similar, Ricoh has been constantly pushing what’s possible in terms of managing what they do with the space and all the heat within that same form-factor. Having previously been told how difficult it was going to be to process 4K video in such a small space without overheating, it seems amazing to find they’re now doing it with even larger sensors filling up the space.

    Those are skills that can underpin interesting cameras in the future

    This may not seem that exciting for users of the company’s Pentax DSLRs, but it can only be positive if a company has a product that pushes them to constantly work on processing efficiency, space optimization and thermal management, because those are skills that can underpin interesting cameras in the future.

    Which is probably why I was pretty disappointed to hear Ricoh’s representatives appearing to suggest that DSLRs might make a comeback, once the novelty of mirrorless has worn off. Because, while I don’t think the DSLR is dead just yet, I wouldn’t bank on it ending up with much more than niche status in the long run. But perhaps Ricoh believes it can make a solid future by exploiting multiple small niches like this: that would certainly explain the amazing breadth of its product portfolio.

    I can’t help imagine what a combination of this foresight, and the impressive engineering of the Theta Z1 would look like

    A part of me can’t help but feel a bit disappointed. Pentax was one of the first companies, way back in 1997, to show a concept mockup of what we’d now call a mirrorless camera. And, even though the market is now very crowded, I can’t help imagine what a combination of this foresight, and the impressive engineering of the Theta Z1 would look like, if they could be brought together.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Special edition Leica CL kit celebrates 100th anniversary of the Bauhaus school of art & design

    To celebrate the 100th anniversary of the founding of the Bauhaus school of art and design in Germany, Leica has released a special edition version of its Leica CL camera system, complete with a matching Elmarit-TL 18mm F2.8 lens and carrying strap to complete the kit.

    With the exception of two small visual changes, this special edition Leica CL remains nearly identical to its less-special counterpart, complete with a 24-megapixel sensor, 4K video and wireless connectivity. The two changes are the addition of a ‘Bauhaus’ logo embossed into the black leather wrap on the front of the camera and a notable change to the usually-red Leica nameplate on the front—it’s now black.

    Leica describes the special edition as ‘an elegant, iconic piece of german product design, that exemplary obeys the principle of form follows function.’

    Included with the camera in the special edition kit is a matching silver Elmarit-TL 18mm F2.8 lens and a black leather carrying strap that’s also embossed. The sets, of which only 150 will be produced, will be individually numbered and retail for $ 3,750 exclusively at Leica Stores and Boutiques.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • 5 Tips for Stunning Macro Photography

    The post 5 Tips for Stunning Macro Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

    Do you want to capture gorgeous macro photography?

    Macro photography might feel like a struggle. But it doesn’t have to be. By using a few simple tricks you can capture amazing macro photos consistently.

    So if you’re interested in taking your macro images to the next level, follow these five tips.

    1. Simplify your macro composition’s subjects and colors

    All great macro photos have a carefully chosen composition. That is, the elements in the photos have been arranged in the most beautiful way possible.

    So if you want to capture amazing macro photography, you need to carefully choose your compositions, too.

    And the number one rule of composition?

    Simplify, simplify, simplify.

    Start by choosing a subject for your photo. Something that stands out – ideally the thing that initially drew you to the scene.

    And once you’ve found your subject, hit your viewer over the head with it. Remove any distractions from the scene. If there are stray twigs in the background, remove them. If there’s something unpleasant in the foreground, change your angle.

    The goal is to isolate your subject in every way possible. You want the viewer to know exactly what they’re supposed to look at.

    But as well as removing all the physical distractions, you should also remove all the distracting colors.

    A macro photo should have three colors or fewer – four if you’re really struggling. But no more than that.

    Because too many colors cause chaos.

    And in macro photography you absolutely need to avoid chaos.

    You need to simplify.

    2. Increase the subject-to-background distance for beautiful macro backgrounds

    Now you understand the importance of simplifying. But it’s not just the subject of the photo you need to simplify. You also need to simplify the background.

    The best macro photography backgrounds are clean, simple and uniform. They don’t take away from the subject. Instead, they complement the subject and help it stand out.

    But how do you create such a simple, clean background?

    One way is to increase the distance between the subject and the background, and use a very wide aperture (something in the f/2.8 to f/4 range).

    Why? Because the farther the subject is from the background, the greater the aperture needed to keep everything in focus. And so at very wide apertures the whole background becomes  wonderfully blurry.

    This background blur is called bokeh. And macro photographers love it because it helps the subject to stand out.

    Just remember that when it comes to macro photography backgrounds, blurrier is almost always better.

    So use a wide aperture, and increase the subject to background distance.

    You’ll get far better shots that way.

    3. Focus manually for the best macro photography detail

    Do you ever struggle to nail the focus while doing macro photography?

    It’s a common problem. Since you’re working at such high magnifications, the autofocus on your lens will undoubtedly struggle. And it’ll often miss your point of focus entirely.

    Fortunately, there’s a simple workaround for this problem: manual focus.

    Manual focus lets you change the point of focus using the ring on the lens. Twist the lens ring and the focus moves, allowing you to focus close, far away, then close again without using the lens’s autofocus.

    This is extremely useful for macro photography. Even at high magnifications, you’ll be able to consistently nail the focus.

    As long as you switch over to manual focus, of course.

    A couple of tips:

    • Turn the manual focus ring gently. You don’t want to go at it aggressively. Instead, move smoothly.
    • If you’re struggling to lock focus on your subject, try using autofocus to get you in the general area. Then fine tune the focus with manual.

    Manual focus may take a bit of practice to master. But it’ll be worth it in the end.

    4. Shoot into the sun for amazing background bokeh

    Now we’ve reached the fun part of this article: How to generate gorgeous background bokeh.

    As I mentioned earlier, bokeh refers to a beautiful blurry background.

    And here’s the thing: If you can create amazing bokeh in your macro photos you’re practically guaranteed a great shot, because it will make your shot stand out from the crowd.

    But how do you capture stunning bokeh?

    Here’s one simple trick you can use: shoot into the sun.

    First, wait until the sun is low in the sky (early morning or late afternoon).

    Next, find a subject and place that subject between you and the sun. Crouch down low so the sun is behind your subject.

    Now, move around until you find an area where the sun is broken up by something – tree branches, leaves, etc. You want the sun to shine through these tree branches, hit your subject, and then hit you.

    Why is this so important?

    Well, broken sunlight ultimately creates the best bokeh. Those smaller pinpricks of sunlight produce amazing backgrounds.

    Note: You don’t want the full sun in your frame. Otherwise the sky will be far too bright and your picture will lack serious detail. Instead, block the sunlight with your subject. If you like, let the sun peek out from behind. (In fact, this can result in some especially interesting effects.)

    Bottom line?

    If you can create amazing bokeh, your macro photography will be stunning. So create it whenever possible.

    5. Find shade-sun combinations for gorgeous colors

    Here’s a final macro photography tip for you (and one of my favorites).

    If you want to create wonderful, pastel-like colors in your macro photos, use shade-sun combinations.

    When the sun is low in the sky, go out looking for subjects. Shadows will be long, so you shouldn’t have any problem finding a nice subject in the shade.

    Get ready to photograph that subject. But before you actually take the shot, carefully position yourself so the background of the shot is sun-drenched.

    This works amazingly well, because the sunny background will be soft and golden. And golden light is amazing for bokeh.

    You’ll capture photos like this:

    And this:

    With a bit of patience, you should be able to find many great backgrounds by using this trick.

    So don’t forget to try it.

    Stunning macro photography: next steps

    Capturing amazing macro photos doesn’t have to be hard. You just have to know a few tricks.

    For instance, you have to simplify your compositions.

    You have to create beautiful backgrounds.

    And you have to focus manually.

    If you can do that, your macro photos will be amazing in no time at all.

    We’d love you to go out and try these techniques, and share your macro photos with us in the comments below.

    The post 5 Tips for Stunning Macro Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.


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  • How to Turn Day to Night Using Photoshop for Urban Landscapes

    The post How to Turn Day to Night Using Photoshop for Urban Landscapes appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.

    Have you ever wished you’d photographed something at night? You may not have had the time, knowledge, or gear to do it, but you still regret not getting that shot.

    In some cases you may be able to return at night and have another go. But if you can’t, you can quickly turn day to night with Photoshop.

    In this article I’ll show you how you to turn your daytime urban scene into a nighttime one using layers and masks. I’ll also give you a few tips on the details you should take care of for a more realistic effect.

    But first I want to explain the idea behind this technique so you can apply it to all kinds of photography.

    The blue night and the yellow light

    You may have noticed that different lights have different colors. Sunsets are redder and warmer than the sunlight at noon. The table lamp from your bedroom is more yellow than the fluorescent light of an office building. And so on.

    This is called the color temperature, and is measured in Kelvin degrees. (You can see it in full in this color temperature scale.) And you can take advantage of it to simulate night time by colorizing your image accordingly.

    Make it night

    First, you need to change the white daylight into a dark blue that corresponds to the night light by adding a blue layer. You can do this in various ways, although I find the easiest way it to select Layer -> New Adjustment Layer -> Color Lookup… from the menu and clicking OK.

    From the Properties panel, open the top drop-down menu and choose any option that gives you a blue tone such as Moonlight, Foggy night, or Night from Day.

    If you’re more experienced, and want to to have full control, you can work with a RAW file. At the top of the adjustment panel of the ACR window is a slider where you can adjust the color temperature. You can also enter the Kelvin degrees value you want directly according to the scale I mentioned before.

    Turn the lights up

    Next, create another layer that’s yellow or amber. If you’re using Adjustment Layers, remember to duplicate of the original first and then add the color one on top of it. If you’re sticking with the Color Lookup adjustment layer style choose Edgy Amber or Candlelight. Once you have it, merge the adjustment layer with the copy you created from the original.

    If you’re doing it from ACR, don’t just duplicate your layer. Use the Create a New Smart Object via Copy option instead, or the first layer will go yellow too. You can find this option by right-clicking the layer and choosing it from the menu. Then double-click on the thumbnail to open ACR again and drag the slider to the yellow side.

    You now need to add a mask to this yellow layer. You can do this by clicking on the Layer mask button on the bottom of the panel. Once you’ve created it, click Invert in the properties panel. We do it this way because the white mask will show all the content and the black one will block all of it. (To learn more about it, check out Getting Started with Layer Masks in Photoshop – a Beginners Tutorial.) For now you’ll want it all covered so you can paint only what you need to in the next step.

    The yellow corresponds to the tungsten light from light bulbs, which you can use to paint lamp posts, windows and any other source of light that might be available during night time. Identify these sources and, using the Brush tool, start painting in the Layer Mask with the brush set to white.

    For windows, I find it easier to paint the entire rectangle and then paint out the divisions with the black brush.

    This also works for any corrections or detailed work. If you paint something by accident, change the color of the brush to black and paint back over it to cover it again. This is why we’re using masks. The work is non-destructive, and you can easily go back and forth.

    The Giveaways

    It’s up to you how much work you want to put into the transformation. But keep in mind that the more details you do, the more realistic the effect looks.

    For example, the lamp will shed some light onto the wall where it’s hanging, so you’ll want to illuminate that part as well. With the same Brush tool you were using, diminish the opacity from the Options Bar and paint the wall where the light would be hitting. Keep diminishing the opacity as you get further away from the light source.

    Another big giveaway is reflective surfaces because light would reflect onto them. In this example, the water in the canals needs to have reflected light. But it may also be needed for cars or puddles, so keep an eye on your scene and paint those as well.

    There you have it: from day to night using nothing more than  layers and masks.

    I hope you enjoyed this technique. I recommend you go out and do some night photography so you can learn how light, tones and colors behave. The more you understand it, the better you will be able to replicate it in post-production.

    If you need some help getting started, check out The Ultimate Guide to Night Photography.

    And to get some inspiration for your next digitally created night scenes, here are two great articles:

    • Creating Moods with the Kelvin Scale
    • After Dark – 22 Night Photography Images.

    The post How to Turn Day to Night Using Photoshop for Urban Landscapes appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.


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