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  • How to Photograph Long Exposures to Create Dreamy Images

    The post How to Photograph Long Exposures to Create Dreamy Images appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jeremy Flint.

    dps-how-to-photograph-long-exposures

    Many new photographers may not know how to photograph long exposures, or even what that means to their photography. Thanks to the development of camera accessories and filters, capturing long exposures is becoming a very popular medium of photography for enthusiast photographers.

    Long exposure photography is a technique used by many landscape, cityscape and seascape photographers. Have you ever seen a picture of the city where clouds show motion, the car lights have been made streaky or the seawater is rendered blurry? Well this will usually be the result of using a filter to achieve a long exposure that captures the movement of the subject.

    how to photograph long exposures
    This long exposure has allowed the waves to soften. Illheus da Janella © Jeremy Flint
    Canon 5DSR, EF24-70 f2.8 USM II | 30sec f/11 ISO 100

    Before we look at how to photograph long exposures, it is first worth considering the meaning of a long exposure, and the different types of photography you can apply the method to.

    A long exposure is “a timed exposure of a long duration where the shutter is open for a speed of several seconds where the purpose and aim of long exposures is to sharply capture and minimize movement of static objects within the frame whilst blurring the elements with motion.”

    Samples of long exposure photography

    There are a variety of different styles of photography where using long exposure photography techniques can result in great images. Some examples of popular subjects include landscapes, cityscapes, seascapes, astrophotography (such as creating star trails), street scenes, and even abstract scenes.

    Applying the technique of long exposure photography to landscape scenes can be a great way to create drama in skies or foregrounds with moving clouds or foliage.

    Shooting water with long exposures can also benefit your images. Capturing moving water can bring an ethereal look and feel to seascapes as waves break or crash. Using a long exposure, you can capture the swell of the ocean or motion of tides for dreamy-looking images.

    How to achieve long exposures

    When considering how to photograph long exposures,
    you will initially need to think about the kit that you will require, how to
    set this up and the steps to capturing your image.

    How to Photograph Long Exposures to Create Dreamy Images
    The Lee Big and Little Stopper Neutral Density (ND) Filters are great for long exposure photography.

    Kit required

    A tripod is an essential piece of equipment to enable your camera to remain still during the image capture time when the shutter is open.

    Next, you will need a cable release, or wireless remote so you can start and stop the long exposure. Please note this is only required if you need to extend your exposure time beyond 30 seconds. If you shoot below 30 seconds your cameras self-timer will be sufficient to trigger and close the shutter.

    A filter holder is another essential item that is required to achieve long exposures. These are used to hold the filters in place that will be used to slow the exposure time down. 

    how to photograph long exposures
    The filter holder with the Lee 6-stop ND Filter attached to the camera.

    With regard to using filters, neutral density (ND) filters are recommended to minimize the light entering your camera.

    These vary in strength and the effect they can create. The darker the coating, the greater the number of stops of light and the stronger the filter will be. For example, a 10-stop filter will block out more light than a 3-stop or 6-stop filter, and enable you to achieve longer exposures. Examples of these filters include Lee Filters Big Stopper (10-stop) and Little Stopper (6-stop).

    how to photograph long exposures
    St Nectain’s Glen waterfall, Cornwall, England
    Canon 5DSR, EF24-70 f2.8 USM II | 1.5sec f/4.5 ISO 100

    Leaving your shutter open for an extended amount of time can result in some really interesting shots. With this shot of a waterfall, I wanted to make the water more blurry, so I set the camera up on my tripod and photographed it using an ND filter and a longer exposure. By increasing the exposure time, you can see I have been able to create a milky, smooth effect on the water, giving a pleasing result to the image.

    Set Up

    Once you have found a composition you like, you will need to place your camera on the tripod, attach your cable release and affix your filter holder. Next, focus the camera manually (using the MF button on the side of your camera) before putting the filter in place.

    How to Photograph Long Exposures to Create Dreamy Images
    Ponta do Rosto, Madeira
    Canon 5D Mk IV, EF16-35 f2.8L III USM | 241sec f/11 ISO 100

    Steps to photographing long exposures

    Once your kit is set up, here are some simple steps on how to photograph long exposures using the equipment mentioned above to achieve sharper images.

    1. Bulb mode

    Arrange your camera so that you are shooting in bulb mode. This allows you to keep the shutter button open for longer. It will stay open as long as you hold it open.

    2. Set your aperture and ISO

    I recommend setting a small aperture of over f/8 to f/22. The larger the f/number the longer the exposure you can achieve and a low ISO of 100.

    3. Exposure times

    Depending on the strength of the ND filter you are using, your exposure time will change. Based on an initial exposure time of ½ second using a 6-stop filter, you will need to shoot for 30 seconds or 8 minutes using a 10-stop filter, for example.

    how to photograph long exposures
    Land’s End, Cornwall, England
    Canon 5DSR, EF16-35 f2.8L III USM | 1.5sec f/4.5 ISO 100

    Press the self-remote timer and lock the shutter open
    or if you are using the cameras self-timer press the shutter button gently on
    the camera. When you are ready to close the shutter unlock the cable release
    (if you are using the self-timer the image will finish by itself).

    4. Extra tips

    If you are using a DSLR, it is also a good idea to use your mirror lock-up so that the mirror going up and down during your exposure doesn’t cause camera shake. Also, be sure to cover the back of the viewfinder to prevent light from entering and potentially ruining your pictures during the exposure. Many cameras have a little rubber cap that comes attached to the camera strap, to cover your viewfinder. That will stop any light leaking through.

    Conclusion

    In summary, shooting long exposures is a great technique you can use to enhance landscapes, seascapes and images of water where movement is added to the image by extending the exposure time.

    When you are looking at how to photograph long exposures, be sure to get the right kit for the job such as a tripod, filter holder, ND filter and a cable release. Remember to follow the steps required above to capture your long exposures, and share the images you take with us below. It will be great to see what you capture.

    If you want to go deeper into long exposures, see this article by DPS writer, Rick Ohnsman.

    The post How to Photograph Long Exposures to Create Dreamy Images appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jeremy Flint.


    Digital Photography School

  • Sony Xperia 1 Mark II sample gallery updated

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    While many other manufacturers are going all-in on computational tricks and tons of megapixels with their flagship smartphones, Sony is betting on a more ‘back-to-basics’ approach with its Xperia 1 Mark II. Each of its three cameras comes with just 12MP, but they’re pretty big pixels, as a result – especially on the 1/1.7″-sized main sensor. We took the Xperia to a few of our favorite locales (while maintaining social distancing, of course) to get an idea of what you can expect in terms of image quality from those jumbo pixels.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Fujifilm X-T4 full-production sample gallery

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    Ever since we published our full review of the Fujifilm X-T4 review last week, we just can’t seem to put the camera down. It really is that nice to use. As for the image quality, we’ll just let you be the judge of that!

    Hungry for more X-T4 sample images? Check out the previously published pre-production gallery as well.

    See our Fujifilm X-T4 full-production sample gallery

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • As protests continue in the US, journalists report being targeted by police

    A photograph of the state capital building in Lansing, Michigan, during the protest on Sunday, May 31.

    Over the past week, protests have been taking place around the United States (and across the globe) after George Floyd, an unarmed black man, died in police custody. The officer concerned has since been charged with his murder.

    Nearly every major city in the United States has seen some kind of protest in recent days. While many stayed peaceful, others have resulted in disorder, which has seen special police units, SWAT, National Guard and even federal agencies deployed in an effort to keep things under control.

    When violence erupts, regardless of where it happens in the world, the media are on the front lines – with all of the risks this entails. For example, during violence in Minneapolis over the weekend, Reuters photographer Lucas Jackson had the lens attached to his Canon 1DX Mark II destroyed by a ‘protester wielding a crowbar’.

    Most experienced photojournalists could tell similar stories, but increasingly, members of the press are reporting coming under threat from law enforcement officers, too.

    From television news anchors being arrested live on air to camera operators and photographers being targeted by non-lethal rounds, credentialed members of the media and freelance photographers covering the protests have found themselves under threat from law enforcement. So much so that the matter has attracted international attention.

    One of the first instances of police apparently targeting the press came in Louisville, Kentucky when officers started firing non-lethal projectiles at a reporter and camera operator for local NBC affiliate WAVE 3 News:

    Linda Tirado, a freelance photographer, was covering the protests in Minneapolis on Friday night when she was hit in her left eye by what she believes was a rubber bullet fired by police. Speaking with The New York Times, Tirado said she ‘put [her] camera down for a second, and then my face exploded.’

    Tirado was carried away by protestors and was taken to a hospital, but has since been told by doctors that she is permanently blind in her left eye.

    It’s unclear whether Tirado was deliberately targeted, but it seems that some members of the press have been. According to data compiled by Neiman Labs and others, during the ongoing protests, photojournalists and other members of the media have reported being attacked ‘at least 100 times’ by authorities, in many cases despite presenting press credentials.

    The Columbia Journalism Review has shared a comprehensive summary of police attacks on the press throughout the recent protests:

    CJR: The Police Abuse the Press. Again.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Samsung reported to be expanding its image sensor production line

    According to Business Korea, Samsung is planning to convert one of its current DRAM manufacturing lines into a camera sensor production line to the tune of roughly $ 815M.

    The report says Samsung will be converting its DRAM line 13 in Hwaseong, Gyeonggi Province, South Korea into a camera sensor production unit. This transition isn’t unprecedented, as Samsung did the same back in 2018 with its DRAM line 11, converting it into the camera sensor production line S4.

    This transition from DRAM production to camera sensor production happens because, as noted by Android Headline, approximately 80% of the manufacturing processes and equipment for the two operations overlap. so, rather than build from scratch, Samsung can save a dramatic sum of money by simply converting an existing production line.

    Despite so much overlap between the two processes, the conversion is set to cost one trillion Korean won (?), which is roughly $ 815M dollars at the current exchange rate.

    Business Korea doesn’t note what kind of sensors the converted production line will manufacture, but Samsung recently showed off its new 50MP ISOCELL GN1 sensor and has also teased the development of both a 150MP sensor and a 250MP sensor, with hopes to someday create a 600MP smartphone sensor.

    Android Headline cites ‘industry experts,’ saying mass production on the converted line could start as early as year’s end, ‘once it completes installing and testing the new equipment.’

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Samyang/Rokinon Announces 14mm f/2.8 and 85mm f/1.4 Series II lenses

    The post Samyang/Rokinon Announces 14mm f/2.8 and 85mm f/1.4 Series II lenses appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

    If you’re looking for a reasonably-priced but high-performing lens or two, then you’re in luck.

    dps-samyang-series-II-lenses

    Samyang/Rokinon has now announced an update for two of its most popular pieces of glass:

    The Samyang 14mm f/2.8 Series II

    The 14mm f/2.8 and the 85mm f/1.4.

    The Samyang 14mm f/2.8 and the 85mm f/1.4 are already highly-regarded among photographers looking to get strong images while keeping prices low (and who don’t mind full-time manual focus). The ultra-wide focal length of the 14mm is perfect for astrophotography, especially when combined with an f/2.8 maximum aperture. And the f/1.4 aperture on the 85mm is a great way to produce that gorgeous, creamy bokeh that portrait photographers want.

    All for under $ 650 USD.

    But now, with the announcement of the 14mm f/2.8 Series II and the 85mm f/1.4 Series II, Samyang/Rokinon has taken their product lineup a step further.

    The 14mm f/2.8 Series II offers the same optics of the original Samyang 14mm, but now sports a focus lock; this allows you to set your point of focus and hold it in place, which is great for maintaining perfect focus in astrophotography, time-lapse, or other difficult-to-focus situations.

    the Samyang 14mm Series II lens offers a de-click and a focus lock function

    The Samyang 14mm Series II also features a “de-click” option, so that you can manually change the aperture along a near-infinite spectrum (rather than being forced to work in increments, which is the standard for most lenses). This is a great way to fine-tune your apertures in the field, and it also benefits video shooters who want to subtly alter exposure throughout a recording.

    As for the 85mm f/1.4 Series II:

    You still get the same excellent sharpness and bokeh, but Samyang has added a “de-click” feature to match the 14mm f/2.8 Series II.

    And both lenses now offer weather sealing, which will be appreciated by astrophotographers, landscape photographers, and other outdoor shooters, and will make both lenses an easier sell for photographers that work in adverse conditions.

    But perhaps the most enticing thing about the new Samyang lenses is the price:

    You’ll be able to grab the 85mm f/1.4 Series II for just $ 400 USD, while the 14mm f/2.8 Series II will come in at $ 500 USD.

    Sure, constantly using manual focus may come as a bit of a shock, especially if you’ve never used it before. But you’ll become an expert before long and, at such impressively low prices, these two lenses are hard to pass up.

    You can currently preorder both the 85mm f/1.4 Series II and the 14mm f/2.8 Series II for Canon EF, Nikon F, Fujifilm X, MFT, and Canon M mounts.

    Now over to you:

    Do you have any experience with the original Samyang 85mm and 14mm lenses? What do you think of them? And for those of you who are interested in the new lenses: What do you plan to use them for?

    The post Samyang/Rokinon Announces 14mm f/2.8 and 85mm f/1.4 Series II lenses appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.


    Digital Photography School

  • Adobe updates logos, branding for easier navigation and consistency across platforms

    Software manufacturer Adobe is rolling out new logos and icons for many of its applications in a bid to make them easier to identify and to make their appearance more uniform across all the platforms on which they are used. The changes are slight in the main, and may not be noticeable unless you go looking, but the company hopes they will help users find the applications they are looking for.

    The most dramatic change will be the Creative Cloud logo which will switch from its current red and white design to a white emblem on a rainbow background. The two-letter initials on the Photoshop and Lightroom logos will remain, but the pale text will become darker and the borders will be removed. Getting rid of the colored borders and making all the corners rounded will ensure the logos look the same wherever they are used. The forthcoming Photoshop Camera application will use three letters, adding an uppercase C to the Ps of the Photoshop logo.

    The Adobe logo will also get a make-over that includes a slight shift in the tone of red used to make it a little warmer and more ‘contemporary,’ according to the company. Adobe dives further into the branding changes on its Adobe Blog.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Fujifilm X-T4 vs X-H1: should you upgrade or hunt for a bargain?

    Introduction

    Fujifilm seems to be hinting that the X-H1 wasn’t a one-off. But in a reality that’s still waiting for an X-H2, and given the X-T4 isn’t conceptually very distant from the original X-H1, it’s reasonable that some X-H1 owners might consider upgrading to Fujifilm’s newest image stabilized stills and video camera.

    Alternatively, there do seem to be a few unsold X-H1s still available if you dig around.

    So what does two years (and nine days) of progress look like, for Fujifilm’s most video-centric models? Is it worth the upgrade or is now the time to bag yourself a bargain?

    Stabilization

    Image stabilization is pretty much the defining feature of both cameras. The X-H1 was Fujifilm’s first attempt at in-body stabilization and is built on a larger system than the fully electromagnetic design used in the X-T4.

    Initially Fujifilm used the optical stabilization systems to provide pitch and yaw correction when an OIS lens was attached to the X-H1, leaving the in-body system handling translational movements and roll. However, with firmware 2.00, this was changed to use optical and in-body stabilization simultaneously to correct pitch and yaw, which saw a huge increase in the rated correction with some OIS lenses.

    The X-T4 builds on this, with the new system typically a roughly 1EV higher rating than the X-H1 can, with either a prime or zoom lens attached. Unless you regularly shoot at extreme shutter speeds, this is most likely to mean that more shots are steady, which is a benefit that’s sometimes difficult to appreciate, since it’s difficult to notice an increased absence of shaken shots.

    Prime lenses* OIS zooms
    X-H1 5.5 EV 5.0-5.5EV
    X-T4 6.5 EV 5.5-6.5EV**

    * Excluding the 80mm F2.8 Macro, 90mm F2 and 200mm F2, which are rated around 0.5EV lower
    ** Zooms rated as 5.0EV on the X-H1 are rated at 5.5 or 6.0EV on the X-T4. Zooms rated 5.5 on the X-H1 are all measured at 6.5EV on the X-T4.

    Video stabilization

    In video, both cameras are somewhat prone to slightly ‘grabby’ motion if you try to pan slowly, as they aren’t always good at distinguishing between shake and intentional movement. This issue was partially addressed on the X-H1’s with firmware 2.00 and is now very similar to that of the X-T4 in this regard.

    The difference that is likely to be noticeable is that the X-T4’s IS system is quieter than that of the X-H1, which can sometimes make its presence felt if you capture audio internally.

    The X-T4 also has a ‘Boost IS’ mode, which attempts to correct all movement, helping to give more steady results for hand-holding what are supposed to be ‘locked-off’ shots.

    Headline video specs

    The X-H1 boasted a strong video spec relative to the time it was released, but the X-T4 significantly exceeds it.

    The biggest change is that the X-T4 can capture 10-bit footage internally, whereas all the X-H1’s modes are 8-bit. This difference is most noticeable when shooting Log footage. Log gamma distributes the available data values relatively evenly between the brightness levels you’ve captured, to retain as much flexibility as possible when you color grade the footage. Having 1024 values (that’s the ’10-bit’ part) to encode your capture, rather than 256, gives you scope for more adjustment before posterization starts to appear.

    The other obvious spec change is that the X-T4 can shoot 60p 4K footage, whereas the X-H1 tops-out at 30p. 60p can convey fast motion more effectively than slower frame rates, and can be slowed-down to give a 1/2 or 2/5ths speed slow-motion effect.

    The X-T4 also gains an All-I compression option, which saves full data about each frame, rather than just the differences, maintaining better quality, especially in scenes with lots of movement. This includes a 400 Mbps H.265 option that’s just one of the higher bitrate modes offered by the X-T4, above and beyond the 200 Mbps H.264 capture of the X-H1.

    Finally, the X-T4 has a means of monitoring audio, which the X-H1 body lacks. The newer camera comes supplied with a USB adaptor dongle for attaching headphones, whereas X-H1 owners need to buy a battery grip to gain this function.

    Uncropped video

    One of the biggest changes in video capability might not be obvious from the spec sheet. The X-H1 uses a 1.17x cropped region to shoot its 4K footage, while the X-T4 uses the full width (there’s a similar crop to the X-T4’s 60p mode, but the X-H1 can’t shoot 60p).

    This may not sound like a big deal, but it means that a 16mm lens on an X-H1 ends up behaving more like a 29mm equivalent lens than a 24mm equivalent. It makes it more difficult to find genuinely wide-angle options.

    By contrast, the X-T4’s 4K uses an angle of view that’s much closer to the one in stills mode (the shift from 3:2 to video aspect ratio narrows things a little), meaning that the lenses designed to be wide for stills remain wide for video. In turn, this means less lens swapping and less need to buy wider lenses just for video shooting.

    Better video interface

    Fujifilm has been progressively improving its video interface since the introduction of the X-H1. Both cameras have an onscreen interface that can be controlled with the touchscreen, joystick or rear command dial, but the X-T4’s variant is larger, to make touchscreen operation easier. The X-T4 also lets use use the camera’s command dials to set exposure while in Movie Optimized Control mode. That may not sound like a big change, but it makes everything that bit quicker to use.

    The X-T4 also lets you resize the AF point in video, allowing you to be more precise about which object you’re tapping to pull focus to.

    In addition, the X-T4 gains a view assist mode that gives a Rec709-like preview when you’re shooting Log footage, making it much easier to visualize what the final result will look like.

    But perhaps the biggest productivity benefit of the X-T4 over the X-H1 for anyone shooting both stills and video is the provision of a dedicated switch for jumping between the two modes. In part because it’s easier to operate quickly, without accidentally selecting the wrong drive mode, but also because it allows the complete separation of the stills and video menus, so that you only encounter stills-related settings in stills mode, and vice versa. This frees up space in both, allowing separate tabs for timecode and mic setup, rather than everything being bundled into a solitary video tab.

    Battery life

    Another big difference that will be pertinent to both stills and video shooters is battery life. The X-H1 uses the older NP-W126S battery, which has a capacity of 8.7Wh. The X-T4 has a larger NP-W235 battery which offers 15.8Wh.

    As those numbers imply, this makes a big difference. The X-H1 is rated for 310 shots per charge if shot using its rear LCD and 300 through its viewfinder. The X-T3, meanwhile, is rated at 500 shots per charge, despite having a higher-resolution rear screen. And, while it’s common to get many, many more shots than this, depending on your usage, we’d generally expect this roughly 5:3 ratio to indicate better endurance from the X-T4 for most people’s usage.

    Another notable difference is that, while the X-H1 can be charged over its (Micro B Superspeed) USB port, the X-T4 can be charged or operated using power to its Type C USB socket.

    Battery grip

    The other power-related difference between the two cameras is the role played by the accessory battery grip.

    On the X-T4, the grip provides room for two additional batteries, adds some portrait orientation controls and beefs-up the front grip of the camera. This extends battery life and provides a more solid foundation for portrait-orientation shooting, but isn’t needed to expand the camera’s core capability.

    It’s a different story with the X-H1. In addition to those other benefits an add-on grip usually provides, the VPB-XH1 adds a headphone socket as the only way of gaining audio monitoring on the X-H1, and boosts the shooting rate of the camera from 8 fps to 11 fps when using its mechanical shutter.

    Stills shooting

    On the stills shooting side of things, the X-T4 gains two generations of improvement in AF speed, eye-AF and focus tracking performance. This may not sound like a lot, in the light of our recent X-T4 review, but much of what counted against the X-T4 was that some of its peers have got so good. Side-by-side with its forebear, the X-T4 is significantly improved.

    Beyond the improved algorithms, the X-T4 also benefits from having phase detection AF elements spread across its entire sensor, allowing depth-aware focus almost anywhere in the scene. By contrast (hah!) the X-H1’s phase detection is restricted to a central square covering just over a third of the width of the sensor.

    The X-T4 also shoots faster than the X-H1: 15 fps with its mechanical shutter and 20 in e-shutter mode, as opposed to 8 fps and 14 fps for the older model. The X-H1 could up its game to 11 fps, mechanical, if used with the battery grip, but it won’t match the hit rate of the X-T4.

    Handling/design

    The one area in which the X-H1 isn’t outdone is in terms of handling, mostly because there are distinct differences in their outward design.

    The older X-H1 has a more pronounced grip, making it more comfortable to hold with larger lenses. It also has a top-plate settings LCD, which some photographers really love. This comes at the expense of the X-T4’s dedicated exposure compensation dial, instead demanding you press a button or assign the feature to a command dial.

    The X-H1 has an extremely sensitive shutter button that, again, some users love (and which can be adjusted, for a fee, if you don’t), mounted on a downward sloping platform, whereas the X-T4 has a vertically-facing shutter button with threading for a cable release.

    Both cameras have AF-On buttons on the back, for those that like to ‘back-button focus’ but the X-T4’s is more prominent, whereas the X-H1’s sits next to a raised AEL button (the functions of these two buttons can be swapped, though, so it’s mainly the risk of accidentally pressing the wrong button that differentiates the two approaches).

    Rear screens

    One of the most divisive differences between the two cameras is the arrangement of their rear screens. The X-H1 (right, in the picture above) has a 1.04M dot (720 x 640) display mounted on a two-axis cradle, while the X-T4 has a 1.62M dot (900 x 600) panel on a fully articulating hinge.

    The X-H1’s arrangement is excellent for photography, and can be tilted up towards the user both in the landscape and portrait orientation, while remaining on-axis with the lens. This is great for composing oddly-angled images with the camera positioned above or below your usual shooting position.

    The X-T4’s fully articulated screen tends to be the preferred option for videographers or vloggers. Its position away from the axis of the lens demands better spatial awareness when aligning off-angle shots, but it also has the benefit that the screen can be folded in towards the camera for protection.

    Overall

    It’s impressive is how far Fujifilm has progressed in two years. And I don’t, personally, think that’s because of any shortcoming on the part of the X-H1.

    There’s a sense in some quarters that the X-H1 was prematurely abandoned by Fujifilm when, as the last model of its generation, it didn’t get all the features introduced with the X-T3. But comparing its v2.00 IS behavior and performance to its original state, you could almost argue it got a taste of X-T4 tech, over a year early.

    Overall, the X-T4 pushes things forwards in almost every respect, even if it’s not necessarily meant as a like-for-like replacement. And it does so with a list price $ 200 lower than the X-H1 at launch.

    If you can find an X-H1, it’s still a fine camera, especially if it’s at an appropriately good price. But the X-T4 is more capable in almost every respect and to a degree that will be an appreciable improvement across a wide range of photographic and videographic situations.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • 8 Core Lightroom Retouching Techniques to Enhance Your Photos

    The post 8 Core Lightroom Retouching Techniques to Enhance Your Photos appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darina Kopcok.

    dps-core-lightroom-retouching-techniques

    Adobe Lightroom is the preferred RAW editor for many photographers. It’s user friendly, yet has many powerful features to help you get the most out of your photos. Here are the core Lightroom retouching techniques to get more out of your photographs.

    Lightroom Retouching Techniques

    1. Start with your histogram

    The histogram is the first step in retouching using Lightroom. It mathematically represents the tonal range of a given photograph. The tonal range considers all the tones between the darkest part and the lightest part of your image.

    Lightroom Retouching Techniques

    The histogram maps out the brightness area in the photo in grayscale. Black is situated on the left side of the histogram, while white is on the right. You can find all the shades of grey in between. Every shade has a scale of brightness values. For a standard JPG image, there are 256 different recorded values of brightness, “0” being pure black and “255” pure white.

    Learning how to read your histogram is important because it will tell you whether your photo is properly exposed or not. If you have pixels touching the very ends of your histogram, your photo is either underexposed or overexposed

    Unfortunately, you can’t recover these missing details with Lightroom retouching techniques.

    2. Choose the correct Color Profile

    Lightroom Retouching Techniques

    Before you start the retouching process, you should decide on a color profile, as it will make a significant difference in the color and contrast in your photo.

    You can find the Color Profiles in the Basic panel. You can choose from Adobe profiles or from color profiles from your camera.

    Lightroom Retouching Techniques

    3. Get a base with the Tone Curve

    Before making exposure adjustments in the Basic panel, it’s a good idea to get a base with the Tone Curve.

    The Tone Curve is a graphical representation of the tones found throughout your image. By making tweaks to the curve, you can influence the look of the shadows and highlights.

    I recommend starting by lifting the curve at the midpoint when in the Point Curve. This will boost the midtones and contrast, which looks attractive in most images.

    Pull the curve down in the bottom quarter of the curve to deepen the shadows. These simple tweaks can make your image immediately look more dynamic.

    Lightroom Retouching Techniques
    Mid-tone lift in Tone Curve.

    If you’re new to the Tone Curve, you might be more comfortable starting with the sliders in the Region Curve. This won’t give you as much control as the Point Curve but will help you make significant changes to the aesthetic of your image.

    Once you’ve made other edits to your image, you can come back to the Tone Curve for further tweaks.

    Retouching is a process of building and assessing, so you’ll most likely have to jump around from one panel in Lightroom to another until you get a look that you’re satisfied with.

    Lightroom Retouching Techniques
    Tone Curve for apricots image.

    4. Tweak the Basic Panel

    Lightroom Retouching Techniques
    the Basic panel

    The next step is to correct your White Balance.

    Keep in mind that White Balance can be set in-camera to be 100% accurate, or can be used creatively if you’re not striving for a correct white. For example, if your style is warmer in tone, you can push your white balance above 6000+ to give it a golden look.

    I kept my image on the cooler side because I wanted to bring out the blue and emphasize the complementary color choice to make my apricots pop.

    Once you’ve made the best white balance, make any necessary edits to the Highlights, Shadows, and Whites and Blacks in the Basic Panel.

    If your image doesn’t look correctly exposed in these areas, you can then adjust the exposure. However, I don’t recommend starting there. It’ll boost the exposure in all those areas, which may not be what the image needs.

    5. Layer Contrast and add Vibrance in the Presence Panel

    When retouching in Lightroom, I recommend using the Vibrance slider instead of Saturation.

    Vibrance lifts the mid-tones. Saturation boosts all the color in the image, which can make it look unnatural and clownish. If you do choose to use the Saturation slider, watch how it affects your picture as you move the slider. A maximum of +10 is usually more than enough.

    Be sure to add a bit of Clarity, which will boost the contrast in the image. The best retouching is often the result of layering various effects at low numbers, rather than adding a high amount of any one tool, such as Contrast.

    To create contrast, you can use a combination of Contrast, Clarity, Texture, and the Tone Curve. Even a touch of Dehaze works great for a lot of images.

    6. Adjust color in the HSL Panel

    Lightroom Retouching Techniques

    Color has a huge impact on your image. Color is an aspect of composition and crucial to the aesthetic of your photography. The HSL panel in Lightroom is where you will do the most color treatment.

    Unless your aesthetic is quite warm, you might want to bring the orange saturation down a bit in your photos. It tends to look too strong. Also, pay attention to the Luminance sliders and use them instead of Saturation to control brightness, as they control the brightness of individual colors.

    Lightroom Retouching Techniques
    Before and After Lightroom Retouching – Shot at F9 on 50mm at 1/200 1SO 100

    7. Try Split Toning in the highlights and shadows

    Split Toning is a Lightroom tool that you can use to great effect when it comes to Lightroom retouching techniques. Split Toning adds color toning to the highlights and shadows individually, based on luminance.

    However, note that a little goes a long way.

    To add split toning, hold down the Alt/Option key while you move the sliders for Highlights and Shadows. This will allow you to see the variations for each color and pre-visualize how it will look applied to the image.

    Dial-in as much saturation as you feel appropriate for the image. This is usually a low number. A small amount is often all you need to make your images more dynamic.

    Split-toning is sometimes overlooked or used with too heavy of a hand, but with a subtle approach, it’s a very effective Lightroom retouching technique.

    Lightroom Retouching Techniques

    8. Enhance with local adjustments

    Local adjustments are applied to a localized area in an image rather than globally. They only affect the part of the image selected. This allows you to fine tune your photo and have more control over your final result. You can use them to correct problem areas or to create a certain effect.

    The local adjustment tools are:

    • the Graduated Filter
    8 Core Lightroom Retouching Techniques to Enhance Your Photos

    The Graduated Filter is for filtered effects and creating evenness throughout the image.

    • the Radial Filter
    8 Core Lightroom Retouching Techniques to Enhance Your Photos

    The Radial Filter helps you easily isolate subjects for retouching.

    • the Adjustment Brush
    8 Core Lightroom Retouching Techniques to Enhance Your Photos
    8 Core Lightroom Retouching Techniques to Enhance Your Photos
    Layer your local adjustments to create targeted and powerful results.

    The Adjustment Brush helps you create masks for localized retouching by brushing them on.

    • the Spot Removal tool
    8 Core Lightroom Retouching Techniques to Enhance Your Photos

    The Spot Removal tool gets rid of blemishes or small objects in the image. The Adjustment Brush is for creating free-form masks, while the Radial Filter is used to isolate subjects.

    Range masks have been added to three of the local adjustment tools to allow you to target color and luminance.

    The key to enhancing your images with local adjustments is to use a combination of the tools for subtle adjustments, as well as adjusting the opacity or feathering of the tool to create subtle transitions.

    Using local adjustments is one of the most powerful Lightroom retouching techniques.

    Conclusion

    You’ll get the best result in Lightroom by layering the different tools. For example, don’t just use the Contrast slider to add contrast and call it a day. Layer the contrast with small adjustments to the Tone Curve, Dehaze, and Clarity for a subtle and effective look.

    Every photographer develops a workflow that works effectively for them. Hopefully, these core Lightroom retouching techniques will help you fine-tune your editing process.

    If you have any other Lightroom retouching techniques you’d like to share, please do so in the comments section.

    The post 8 Core Lightroom Retouching Techniques to Enhance Your Photos appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darina Kopcok.


    Digital Photography School

  • Adobe’s new video series offers helpful Lightroom CC, Mobile tips in 60 seconds

    Adobe has started up a new video series on its Adobe Photoshop Lightroom YouTube channel called In a Lightroom Minute that condenses helpful Lightroom CC and Lightroom Mobile tips into tutorials that are roughly 60 seconds in length.

    Similar to its previous Lightroom Coffee Break and Photoshop Magic Minute series, In a Lightroom Minute covers a variety of small tips and tricks, from How to Save Edits as Presets in Lightroom to How to Leverage Interactive Edits in Lightroom.

    Currently, there are ten videos in the series, but it’s likely we’ll see more added in the near future. Below are just three you can start with:

    How to Create a Preset in Lightroom

    How to Get Contextual Help While Using Lightroom

    How to Discover Guided Tutorials in Lightroom

    You can view the full playlist and subscribe to the Adobe Photoshop Lightroom channel on YouTube.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)