We’ve updated our Best cameras under $ 2000 buying guide, and the Fujifilm X-T4 is our top pick for those seeking a camera that excels and both stills and video shooting.
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Olympus to Quit the Camera Business, Sell Brands to Investment Fund
The post Olympus to Quit the Camera Business, Sell Brands to Investment Fund appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.
Olympus is leaving the camera business.
After three years of financial struggle, the company has decided to sell its camera division to Japanese Industrial Partners (JIP), a firm known for its ability to successfully restructure unprofitable businesses.
In recent years, Olympus has become more heavily invested in other aspects of its business, and while the company attempted to keep its camera division moving forward, it has struggled to compete with players on either end of the spectrum. Smartphones have eaten into profits generated by hobbyist cameras, while APS-C and full-frame cameras have maintained an edge against Olympus’s semi-professional and professional models.
Then, last fall, rumors of an Olympus camera division shutdown were denied by the CEO, though it’s clear that the company was on a firm downward trajectory; as indicated in the official announcement, Olympus was hit hard by an “extremely severe digital camera market, due to, amongst others, rapid market shrink caused by the evolution of smartphones.”
And while Olympus’s mirrorless lineups were praised for their compactness and sharp lenses, the company struggled to find a habitable niche, especially as “small-but-powerful” became a common refrain of Google Pixels, iPhones, and more. And the release of higher-end bodies such as the OM-D E-M1 Mark III and the OM-D E-M1X wasn’t enough to pull more serious photographers away from leading brands such as Nikon, Canon, and Sony.
So what comes next?
JIP plans to take over the Olympus camera brands by the end of 2020. The announcement indicates that a “definitive agreement” will be signed by September 30th, with the two companies aiming to “close the transaction by December 31, 2020.”
JIP will then “succeed and maintain the research and development functions and manufacturing functions globally…to continue to offer high-quality, highly reliable products.”
This is technically good news for Olympus photographers. JIP will at least attempt to rebuild Olympus’s camera division in the interests of its current consumers. But if the camera market continues to bleed, it may be impossible for JIP to turn things around, leading to a more permanent end for the brand.
And here’s another important question:
What does this mean for the camera industry as a whole? Is Olympus an anomaly? Or is the first of many? At present, even leading camera companies are struggling to find footing, which makes me wonder whether we might witness the fall of at least a few more camera brands before the market stabilizes.
Now over to you:
What do you think about Olympus’s decision? Will it impact Olympus consumers? And will we see the decline of other major camera brands? Share your thoughts in the comments!
The post Olympus to Quit the Camera Business, Sell Brands to Investment Fund appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.
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Canon EF-M 11-22mm F4.5-5.6 IS STM sample gallery
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The Canon EF-M 11-22mm F4-5.6 IS STM dates all the way back to 2013, but it’s a lens we’ve kept close at hand throughout the years as we shoot with new generations of EOS M bodies. And it has been a great companion – well built, compact and offering a useful wide-angle range.
And so, we present a gallery of 11-22mm sample images, some of them taken recently on the higher-resolution M6 II, and some of them taken in what feels like the very distant past (remember crowded stadiums?). Take a look.
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6 Tips For Capturing Better Urban Landscapes
The post 6 Tips For Capturing Better Urban Landscapes appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kav Dadfar.
As you continue your quest to enhance your photography skillset, you should look to broaden your horizons by exploring various disciplines. In this article, we’re going to look more closely at how to capture better urban landscapes.
f/8 – ISO 100 – 1/250 sec This discipline is all about bringing an urban environment to life in your photos. Shots of people living, moving, and working combined with an urban landscape can make for wonderful photos. It’s challenging even for experienced photographers. But you’ll find new ways of expressing yourself and capturing your surroundings, as well as immortalizing a piece of your growing environment.
But how do you best capture engaging images in an urban landscape? Here are six tips for capturing better urban landscapes.
f/8 – ISO 100 – 1/320 sec 1. Get to the streets
Whilst there’s nothing to say that you can’t take urban landscape shots from viewpoints in a city, if you want to capture exceptional urban photography then you should be right there alongside it. Get off your balcony and put yourself right onto the street in the middle of life as it unfolds.
To photograph better urban landscapes, try to find scenes where you can capture the combination of the urban landscape and people. A tight shot on two people talking isn’t necessarily what you’re looking for here. This is more street photography than urban landscapes. So you need to introduce some elements of the urban arena into your composition.
f/6.3 – ISO 250 – 1/160 sec 2. Play around with shutter speed
By lengthening your exposure setting, you can create a very dynamic image. Admittedly, this may go against having a live subject (like a person or animal), since they will probably be moving quite a lot. However, if you can, taking a wide shot of the urban landscape with a long exposure can create some interesting effects through movement.
The streaked clouds overhead can give a sense of movement to your still landscape. It’s a nice trick for capturing better urban landscapes if you’re just looking to get an image of the scene itself instead of active subjects.
At night, this also can create light trails from vehicles. Their tail and headlights will streak in the image, creating an amazing photo that captures the hectic expression of any urban setting.
f/13 – ISO 100 – 4 sec 3. Find interesting buildings
What’s really cool about urban photography is that it’s just as much about the manmade elements as it is people. If you’re shooting in a city setting, then there are likely many interesting buildings, sculptures, parks, and other manmade elements throughout to capture.
Do a little research and learn about why
the interesting buildings were built in the first place. By being just as
selective with your history as you are your visuals, you can create a story
using photography in an urban setting.For example, if you’ve chosen a wonderful gothic church as the background for your scene, what is unique about that church’s history? It may look amazing, but what else is behind the building, historically-speaking? You might dig up something really interesting that’s going to help shape your photo sessions. It could be key elements in the architecture or historically important locations around the church. Or you may just find interesting viewpoints and angles for better urban landscapes of the church.
f/6.3 – ISO 100 – 1/250 sec 4. Come back during different seasons
Another tip for capturing better urban landscapes is to come back during different seasons. It’s easy to forget what an urban setting can look like during a different season. If you’re standing in the middle of a skatepark during the height of summer, and it’s very active with teenagers riding on every surface, you aren’t necessarily thinking about what the same scene would look like covered in snow.
However, you could make some really
intriguing juxtaposing images if you returned to the same scene during a
different season later in the year.If you have the ability to travel to a location more than once a year, then you should consider taking advantage of that luxury. The lighting, skyline, and general feeling can all change dramatically, allowing you to capture great images that you might not have even considered previously.
f/13 – ISO 250 – 15 sec 5. Use the terrain
When you compose your shot, consider the golden triangle rule or the rule of thirds. You can also look to align your subjects with leading lines generated by the terrain; perhaps a bridge, trees, a street, or a mural.
Elements throughout your frame can guide the eye toward your subject naturally, or they can pull it away just as easily. Be aware of how you’re composing your shot and consider using the elements to better align your focal point for better urban landscapes.
f/8 – ISO 800 – 0.6 sec 6. Night versus day
An urban setting can really come alive at night. The shadows cast by daylight are now blending into the surroundings, and your lens will pick up way more than you thought possible.
Daylight photography can capture active scenes natural to that time, and the same can be said for nighttime photography. Aside from general lighting differences, the time of day also helps create an atmosphere in your image that you can’t replicate any other way.
If you can, just like visiting the scene during different times of the year, try and come back to see how the urban setting changes between night and day. Some differences may be subtle, but others will weave new visions for your camera to capture.
f/11 – ISO 200 – 20 sec Conclusion
The wonderful thing about this type of photography is that often it’s accessible for lots of people. Most people live within or near urban environments. So there will be ample opportunity to practice capturing better urban landscapes. Use the tips above and you will be on your way for improving your photography in this genre.
Do you have any other tips for capturing better urban landscapes that you’d like to share? Do you have some images you’d like to share? Please do so in the comments section!
The post 6 Tips For Capturing Better Urban Landscapes appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kav Dadfar.
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Panasonic announces vlogging-friendly Lumix DC-G100/G110
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Panasonic has introduced the Lumix DC-G100 (known as the G110 in some regions), a compact Micro Four Thirds camera targeted toward vloggers. To this end, it features a fully articulating (and very bright) touchscreen, easily visible record button, directional microphones with subject tracking and a number of other details.
While it uses the same 20MP Four Thirds sensor as many other Panasonic cameras, the G100 does not have in-body image stabilization. There is a ‘hybrid’ 5-axis IS system when recording video (4-axis for 4K), though it does add a noticeable crop. The 3″ LCD display is very bright and easy to see outdoors and it’s paired with a 3.68 million dots (equivalent) viewfinder. Is a field sequential EVF but Panasonic says it refreshes four times faster than, for less “color tearing”.
Video can be captured at 4K/30p and 24p for up to 10 minutes. There is a crop in 4K, made even larger when using image stabilization, thus reducing wide-angle shooting options. The G100 uses the ‘OZO’ directional audio system designed by Nokia, which allows you to select the direction in which sound is recorded, even using face detection in one mode. While the G100 has a external mic socket, there’s no headphone jack to be found.
Alongside the G100 comes the DMW-SHGR1 tripod grip ($ 99). It can be a small selfie stick (with still and video capture buttons) or a mini tripod. The grip is powered by the camera’s micro USB port.
The DC-G100 will go on sale in late July at an MSRP of $ 749 when kitted with the ultra-compact 12-32mm F3.5-5.6 power zoom lens. Adding the tripod grip increases the price to $ 799.
A special promotion for both kits (US only, through August 1st) includes a $ 50 instant rebate, extra battery and external charger. Other kits will be available globally.
Read our initial review
View our sample gallery
Press release
Panasonic Launches the LUMIX G100, its Newest Mirrorless Camera for Vlogging and Creative Video Content
The compact, feature-packed camera features high sound quality produced by OZO Audio by Nokia
Newark, NJ (June 24, 2020) – Panasonic today launched the LUMIX G100, a new Digital Single Lens Mirrorless camera designed and developed for creating high-quality, versatile content.
Intuitive controls, visually engaging images and excellent sound quality are hallmarks of the new LUMIX G100, raising the bar for content production and user experience in the vlog camera category. Usability is further enhanced by its remarkably compact and lightweight design that doesn’t skimp on functionality and creative options.
- The Logical Next Step from your Smartphone
With their limited sensor size and optics, a Smartphone can only take your creativity so far, the LUMIX G100 uses a smartphone crushing 4/3rds sensor that records smooth, high-resolution QFHD 4K videos in 3840 x 2160 resolution at 30p or 24p in MP4[1] and Full-HD at 60p. The five-axis hybrid I.S. (image stabilizer)[2] in the LUMIX G100 provides effective shake suppression essential for capturing stable, easy-to-see video in scenarios such as walking or in a moving vehicle. In addition, the new Video Selfie Mode easily captures both the videographer and background in crisp focus without adjustments of aperture that changes with the lens each time.
Adopting a static-type touch control system, the 3.0-inch free-angle rear monitor with 1,840K-dot high resolution makes it easy to compose selfies as well as shots from a high or low angle. Convenient shooting assist functions allow the Frame Maker to check the composition during recording in various popular aspect ratios such as 16:9, 4:3, 1:1, 4:5, 5:4 and 9:16. The REC Frame Indicator displays an eye-catching red frame so that videographers can recognize whether the camera is recording or not at a glance.
*1 Recording stops when the continuous recording time exceeds 10 minutes with [MP4] in [4K]
*2 When using an interchangeable lens (H-FS12032) released before this camera, update the firmware of the lens to the latest version.
- High Sound Quality Supported by OZO Audio Technologies
The LUMIX G100 integrates OZO Audio by Nokia for high-quality spatial audio recording, a first for a Digital Single Lens Mirrorless camera.* Engineered for universal playback and shareability across the world’s most popular social media platforms, the OZO Audio enables users to capture and edit the full richness of sonic life with vibrant accuracy and precision. It sets a new standard in innovative audio solutions for user-generated content. Three microphones record clear, vibrant sound with outstanding images, for example a dynamic landscape with immersive, realistic sound; interviews with clear speech; or easy, on-the-scene coverage by the videographer with easy mode selection. Combining Panasonic and Nokia OZO Audio technologies, the LUMIX G100 also offers a tracking feature that continues tracking the voice of the subject. Auto mode automatically recognizes the best setting and switches between tracking and surround modes.
* For a digital interchangeable lens system camera, as of June 24, 2020.
- High Potential and Unlimited Expression
The new LUMIX G100 integrates a 20.3MP MOS Sensor without Low Pass Filter, which features higher resolution and a larger size than found in smartphones. Realizing maximum ISO 25600 high sensitivity, even images captured at night or low light are clear. In addition, the large sensor enables beautiful defocusing in the background, and the Venus Engine assures high-speed, high-performance image processing. Impressive 4x*/2x slow and 8x/4x/2x quick FHD motion footage and time lapse shots are captured with ease.
Advanced videographers will appreciate the V-LogL recording capability; users can apply the LUT (Look Up Table) of their choice on the recorded V-LogL footage via a PC to create a differentiated video with subtle colors and moods.
Features such as the 4K technology, along with the 3,680K-dot equivalent center-aligned viewfinder, allow users to capture 4K PHOTO shots, excelling in performance and function for photo shooting. Able to save spontaneous shots by just selecting the frame out of a burst file sequence, users will never miss a moment.
*30p only
- Easy Connectivity via Bluetooth, Wi-Fi and HDMI
The LUMIX G100 integrates Bluetooth and Wi-Fi® 2.4GHz (IEEE802.11b/g/n) connectivity to offer a more flexible shooting experience and easy instant image sharing. A dedicated upload button controls video and photo transfer to a smartphone via Panasonic’s LUMIX Sync app for iOS / Android. Users can also use their smartphone as a remote control to capture video and photo.
Compatibility with Bluetooth 4.2 (called BLE: Bluetooth Low Energy) enables constant connection with a smartphone/tablet with minimum power consumption and can activate the camera by using a smartphone/tablet or automatically add geotagging photos.
HDMI[1] allows video output via The LUMIX G100, or it can be used as a webcam that provides exceptional image quality with rich depth of field and high quality sound for streaming in combination with an HDMI video capture device.[2]
*1 It is not possible to stream live in 4K. While using the HDMI output function, video cannot be recorded.
*2 A separate streaming software for PC is required.
- Compact, Lightweight Design Even with Tripod Grip
Despite its high performance and selection creative functions, the LUMIX G100 is portable, compact and weighs only 412 g, even with the LUMIX G VARIO 12-32mm / F3.5-5.6 ASPH. / MEGA O.I.S.(H-FS12032) lens. A new Tripod Grip DMW-SHGR1[4] makes it even easier to hold the camera or can be used as a compact tripod. Connecting with the camera via USB allows the user to start/stop video recording, release the shutter and enable/disable sleep mode. The camera’s battery can be recharged either via AC or USB according to the user’s convenience.
*4 Tripod Grip is bundled in DC-G100V kit. It is also sold separately.
Tripod Grip (DMW-SHGR1)
A compact, lightweight handgrip / mini tripod allowing start/stop video recording and shutter release via USB connection.
Compatibility: DC-G100, GH5*,GH5S*,G9*, G95* and G85*
*Firmware update of the camera is required. It connects to the remote terminal of the camera using a bundled conversion cable. Sleep button cannot be used.
The LUMIX G100 will be available for sale at the end of July.
Panasonic Lumix DC-G100 specifications
Price MSRP $ 749 (w/12-32 lens), $ 799 (w/12-32 lens and tripod grip) Body type Body type SLR-style mirrorless Body material Composite, metal Sensor Max resolution 5184 x 3888 Image ratio w:h 1:1, 4:3, 3:2, 16:9 Effective pixels 20 megapixels Sensor photo detectors 22 megapixels Sensor size Four Thirds (17.3 x 13 mm) Sensor type CMOS Color space sRGB, Adobe RGB Color filter array Primary color filter Image ISO Auto, 200-25600 (expands down to ISO 100) Boosted ISO (minimum) 100 White balance presets 5 Custom white balance Yes (4 slots) Image stabilization No Uncompressed format RAW JPEG quality levels Fine, standard File format - JPEG (Exif v2.31)
- Raw (Panasonic RW2)
Optics & Focus Autofocus - Contrast Detect (sensor)
- Multi-area
- Center
- Selective single-point
- Tracking
- Single
- Continuous
- Touch
- Face Detection
- Live View
Autofocus assist lamp Yes Digital zoom Yes Manual focus Yes Number of focus points 49 Lens mount Micro Four Thirds Focal length multiplier 2× Screen / viewfinder Articulated LCD Fully articulated Screen size 3″ Screen dots 1,840,000 Touch screen Yes Screen type TFT LCD Live view Yes Viewfinder type Electronic Viewfinder coverage 100% Viewfinder magnification 1.46× (0.73× 35mm equiv.) Viewfinder resolution 3,680,000 Photography features Minimum shutter speed 60 sec Maximum shutter speed 1/500 sec Maximum shutter speed (electronic) 1/16000 sec Exposure modes - Program
- Aperture priority
- Shutter priority
- Manual
Scene modes - Expressive
- Retro
- Old Days
- High Key
- Low Key
- Sepia
- Monochrome
- Dynamic Monochrome
- Rough Monochrome
- Silky Monochrome
- Impressive Art
- High Dynamic
- Cross Process
- Toy Effect
- Toy Pop
- Bleach Bypass
- Miniature Effect
- Soft Focus
- Fantasy
- Star Filter
- One Point Color
- Sunshine
Built-in flash Yes Flash range 3.60 m (at ISO 100) External flash Yes Flash modes Auto, auto w/redeye reduction, on, on w/redeye redduction, slow sync, slow sync w/redeye reduction, off Flash X sync speed 1/50 sec Drive modes - Single
- Burst
- 4K Photo
- Post Focus
Continuous drive 10.0 fps Self-timer Yes Metering modes - Multi
- Center-weighted
- Spot
Exposure compensation ±5 (at 1/3 EV steps) AE Bracketing ±3 (3, 5, 7 frames at 1/3 EV, 2/3 EV, 1 EV steps) WB Bracketing Yes Videography features Format MPEG-4, H.264 Modes - 3840 x 1920 @ 30p / 100 Mbps, MOV, H.264, AAC
- 3840 x 1920 @ 25p / 100 Mbps, MOV, H.264, AAC
- 3840 x 1920 @ 24p / 100 Mbps, MOV, H.264, AAC
- 1920 x 1080 @ 120p / 28 Mbps, MOV, H.264, AAC
- 1920 x 1080 @ 60p / 28 Mbps, MOV, H.264, AAC
- 1920 x 1080 @ 50p / 28 Mbps, MOV, H.264, AAC
- 1920 x 1080 @ 30p / 28 Mbps, MOV, H.264, AAC
- 1920 x 1080 @ 25p / 28 Mbps, MOV, H.264, AAC
- 1920 x 1080 @ 24p / 28 Mbps, MOV, H.264, AAC
Microphone Multiple Speaker Mono Storage Storage types SD/SDHC/SDXC card (UHS-I supported) Connectivity USB USB 2.0 (480 Mbit/sec) USB charging Yes HDMI Yes (micro-HDMI) Microphone port Yes Headphone port No Wireless Built-In Wireless notes 802.11b/g/n + Bluetooth Remote control Yes (via smartphone) Physical Environmentally sealed No Battery Battery Pack Battery description BLG10 lithium-ion battery and charger Battery Life (CIPA) 270 Weight (inc. batteries) 352 g (0.78 lb / 12.42 oz) Dimensions 116 x 83 x 54 mm (4.57 x 3.27 x 2.13″) Other features Orientation sensor Yes Timelapse recording Yes GPS None -
Google Street View is unavailable in Mauritius, so one resident created his own using a DJI drone
On the island of Mauritius, which is about 1,200 miles (2,000km) southeast from the mainland continent of Africa, Google has never sent a car for gathering street view data. Considering the remoteness of the island nation and its relatively small – but dense – population of nearly 1.3 million, Google’s neglect makes fiscal sense. However, Mauritian resident Reuben Pillay wanted to address the situation himself and he started his ReubsVision project.
Over the last year and a half, Pillay traveled around Mauritius with his DJI Phantom 4 Pro drone. As you can imagine, it’s a large undertaking. He told PetaPixel ‘We’re a small island – driving from my place to anywhere can take at most an hour and a half since I’m pretty much centered.’ Pillay also noted that the constantly changing weather on the island added a lot of difficulties.
A screenshot from ReubsVision showing Grand Sable. Image credit: Reuben Pillay, ReubsVision Pillay stitched the photos from his drone together to create a 360-degree image of each location he visited, covering the entire coastline of the island using more than 220 high-resolution photos. Each image took Reuben about 10 hours to create.
In addition to spending a huge amount of time and effort to capture and stitch together his images, Reuben also needed to learn how to code and set up the website for ReubsVision. He tells PetaPixel, ‘[It] was actually the first website I ever built…I had no prior experience in doing any of that.’
A zoomed-in view of the same location as above. Image credit: Reuben Pillay, ReubsVision It was an expensive project in terms of cost and time. ReubsVision is completely free to access and explore, and is a really great way to learn more about Mauritius. Pillay says, ‘All I want for now is that people discover my island.’
If you’re interested in capturing your own 360-degree images using a drone, you can refer to the following video tutorials from Atti Bear and Ben Claremont.
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Weekly Photography Challenge – Powerlines
The post Weekly Photography Challenge – Powerlines appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.
This week’s weekly photography challenge – POWERLINES!
You might want to capture powerlines reflecting in water like this shot I took. © Caz Nowaczyk Powerlines are everywhere (well at least here in Australia they are!). Capture them close up or as part of a wider scene. Capture them against a fabulous sunrise or sunset, as a silhouette, or whatever you like. You get the idea!
Play with post-processing too, if you like.
The choice is yours! I look forward to seeing what you share
This one is a mix of the sunsetting and silhouettes on a Melbourne city street. © Caz Nowaczyk 
These powerlines are part of a larger vista and lead the viewer’s eye into the frame. © Caz Nowaczyk. Check out some of the articles below that give you tips on this week’s challenge.
Tips for photographing POWERLINES
How to share your photo with us here
Simply upload your shot into the comment field (look for the little camera icon in the Disqus comments section) and they’ll get embedded for us all to see. Or, if you’d prefer, upload them to your favorite photo-sharing site and leave the link to them. Show me your best images in this week’s challenge.
Share in the dPS Facebook Group
You can also share your images in the dPS Facebook group as the challenge is posted there each week as well.
If you tag your photos on Flickr, Instagram, Twitter or other sites – tag them as #DPSpowerlines to help others find them. Linking back to this page might also help others know what you’re doing so that they can share in the fun.
The post Weekly Photography Challenge – Powerlines appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.
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Panasonic Lumix DC-G100 sample gallery
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The Panasonic G100 is officially here and we got the chance to shoot around with a pre-production model prior to launch. Despite its billing as a vlogging-centric camera, it’s also a capable stills-shooter thanks to a 20MP Four Thirds sensor. But it’s worth noting: there’s no in-body stabilization. Have a look at our samples and read our G100 first impressions.
See our Panasonic Lumix G100 sample gallery
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Video: Explaining why you SHOULD overexpose the highlights in certain photos
It’s a general rule of thumb in photography — digital photography in particular — that you shouldn’t overexpose your highlights, as it can result in the loss of detail. Like all rules, however, this rule not only can be broken but should be broken in certain situations, argues Pye Jirsa of SLR Lounge.
In a five-minute video shared on the SLR Lounge YouTube Channel, Pye explains why you should blow out your highlights in certain situations if it means being able to capture a more powerful image. Specifically, he shows how a ‘perfectly imperfect’ bridal portrait can yield a more natural and authentic feel by overexposing the background in favor of capturing a more technically proper exposure, which Pye explains results in a much more ‘sterile’ feel.
As with all ‘rules’ in photography, very few, if any are hard rules that can’t be broken. But before you start throwing caution to the wind, it helps to know why the rules should be tossed to the side every once in a while on the account of artistic interpretation.
In addition to the video, Pye also shared a detailed breakdown of his thoughts in an article on SLR Lounge. You can find more tutorials from Pye and others on the SLR Lounge YouTube Channel.
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How to Make a DIY Lightbox for Product Photography
The post How to Make a DIY Lightbox for Product Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Bond.
There is a lot of photography that you can do indoors, and product photography is one such example of this. If you’re keen to try this out yourself in order to get the best results, making a DIY lightbox will elevate the quality of your photography. Creating a lightbox is simple, and you only need some basic supplies to do it. In this article, you’ll find out about two possible methods.
A lightbox is ideal for still life photography What is a lightbox?
A lightbox is a box you place your product in, and fill it with light to photograph that product. A lightbox aims to avoid shadows when you photograph your main subject. If you light the scene from all directions, you’ll not see shadows.
How do you achieve this?
You’ll need light coming into your DIY lightbox to your subject from all directions. You can achieve this by bouncing light around the box, and also from light sources shining through and into the box. In the majority of cases, light sources shine into the box from the outside. However, you’ll also see a box that uses reflected light to achieve the same result.
The light source
The light source you use will depend on what you have available. It’s possible to use strong spotlights to create the light for your DIY lightbox.
Using strobes triggered remotely is a better option, however, these emit a strong burst of light that will light up everything in your lightbox. When using a strobe, it’s even more important to soften the light by bouncing it.
A light source like an off-camera flash will be needed. The shoot-thru DIY lightbox
This is the classic form for a lightbox. In this method, you’ll be creating windows in a cardboard box and then covering those with paper. In effect, you’re creating softbox-like panels around the outside of your box.
Equipment you’ll need
- Cardboard box – A decent size cardboard box. One that has sides larger than an A4 piece of paper is ideal.
- Three pieces of white paper – These need to be large enough to cover one side of the cardboard box.
- One larger piece of paper – This is needed once the box is complete. It’s attached within the box to create an infinity curve.
- Scissors – Needed to cut holes in the side of your box.
- Tape – You’ll need some tape to stick everything together!
This box shows the holes cut in the side, and two panels of white paper have been added. How to make the box
- Turn the box on it’s side, and cut off the top flaps.
- Cut out “windows” on the left, right and top of the box. Leave the back of the box alone.
- Use the paper to cover over the holes you have created, and tape the paper to the box.
- Now tape the larger piece of paper to the back of the box, and allow it to curve down to the floor of the box.
- Your lightbox is now ready to use, just use your light sources to shine through the paper panels on the side of the box.
An image produced using a DIY lightbox. Making a reflector DIY lightbox
This is an alternative and is arguably even easier to make. The results are similar, but you’ll need to make a larger box. The increased size can be an advantage as it will allow you to photograph those larger objects.
Equipment needed
- Foamboard – You’ll need four of these. Three for the sides, and one for the roof. The size used in this example is 90cm by 60cm.
- Tape – Use the tape to stick the boards together. This should be the wider variety of tape, used to tape boxes together.
- Scissors – to cut the tape as needed
- A sheet of paper – A long sheet of paper to form the backdrop behind the object you’ll photograph. This paper will usually be white. The paper should be comparable in size to the foamboards.
Foam board stuck together with tape. They fold up like a concertina for storage. How to make the box
- Line up three of the foamboards. They should be placed together with the shortest side facing each other.
- Leave a gap between each board, this should be between half and one centimeter.
- Use the tape to stick the boxes together. The gap will now allow you to fold the boards in on each other.
- Flip the boards over, and put the tape on the other side. This will reinforce the whole structure.
- Now, take the three boards and stand them up in a horseshoe-like shape.
- Tape the sheet of white paper to the backboard, and run it down to the ground. Ensure there is a curve where it meets the ground.
- Place the final foamboard over this structure, it will act as the roof.
- Your lightbox is now ready. Place your light sources within the structure, so light bounces around the box.
This lightbox is now ready for use, with the foam roof attached. How to use your new DIY Lightbox
Now that your lightbox is ready, you’ll want to put it to good use. When photographing with it, ensure that your main subject is not too large. There should be a few centimeters clearance around your object, so when you focus on it, the background is your backdrop.
Good objects to photograph are still-life objects like ceramics, or perhaps a homemade quilting product! Lightboxes can also be ideal for food, though you’ll likely need to replace the backdrop paper afterward.
This shows two ceramics vases lit using the reflector DIY lightbox. The backdrop paper
The default color for your backdrop paper is going to be white. White looks clean, and you’ll also be able to post-process your image more easily, potentially cutting it out and putting it in a new image.
The next best backdrop to use is black. The neutrality of black can work well for a minimalist feel. Then beyond that, you can experiment with any color you feel compliments the product you happen to be photographing.
A black background is another option for this type of photography. Get started with your still-life photography!
A still-life project is a perfect thing to do when you’re stuck indoors; however, getting the materials may require a trip to the shops for most.
Have you tried your hand at making photography equipment before? If so, what have you made, and how did it benefit your photography? Did you ever try making a DIY lightbox of your own? If you’ve got examples of photographs taken with a lightbox, we’d love to see them! As always, leave your thoughts and photos in the comments section below.
The post How to Make a DIY Lightbox for Product Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Bond.