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Posts Tagged ‘Pine’

How to Shoot a Pine Cone Time-lapse: A Mini Tutorial

03 Mar

This week over at our sister site, SnapnDeals, we have a great deal running where you can get 20% off Time-Lapse Photography: A technical and practical time-lapse tutorial guidebook for all skill levels designed to get you out the door and shooting now!

How to Shoot a Pine Cone Time-lapseIn this lighthearted mini-tutorial we’ll take an 80/20 approach to creating a simple time-lapse of a common pinecone (in this case a Black Pine).

For a more general introduction to time-lapse photography view: Time-lapse Photography Tutorial: An Overview of Shooting, Processing and Rendering Time-lapse Movies.

You already know that pine cones are nature’s mysterious seed pyramids, but did you know they have a gender? Yes, there are both female and male pine cones. Did you also know that pine cones are an interesting time-lapse subject? Go get a female pine cone, and give it a shot. Let this whole male/female Nature Notes youtube revelation be your last straw, or should I say pine needle that breaks your procrastination. Here was my result:

Here’s how to make your own pine cone time-lapse:

Step 1. Find pine cones

Collect some good looking pine cones (preferably female: watch the Nature Notes video above). Look for good cones in fresh condition, without rot or discoloration, uniform shape, and bottoms that provide support for upright standing. I’d grab two or three for variety, and a dog chew backup. Here’s an example of an open found pine cone.

Pinecone bts1

Step 2. Make them close

Pine cone motion is all about moisture, it’s a hydromorphic response. In high moisture environments pine cones close. In low moisture, over time, they open. This video showing both opened, and closed cones, with visible moisture is a perfect learning example.

To close a cone, simply put it in a cup of water and leave it for an hour or two. That’s it.

Step 3. Prepare for the opening shot

Key thoughts: Steady (consistent) lighting, simple background, camera position, power. Let’s take these one by one.

Steady light: Light fluctuations in a sequence of time-lapse images are bad, as they create unappealing bright and dark frames in the rendered movie, better known as time-lapse flicker (learn much more about that here). Chose a room that you can cordon off for a day or so to prevent disturbances, and block all light from any windows. Move any light sources near the photo white box, to provide a constant uniform brightness, then adjust their positions to eliminate shadows.

Background: Completely up to you creatively. I chose a minimal white background, using a simple inexpensive white box. By slightly overexposing each shot, you can effectively eliminate almost all appearances of a background.

Camera position: Choose one or more angles from which to shoot. I chose first, a front downward angle, and a second fully vertical angle from above.

Power: A pine cone bloom from closed to opened may last anywhere from 8-24 hours, so you’ll need an AC adapter for your camera to make sure it keeps going.

Step 4: Craft the time-lapse and begin

We talked a little bit about avoiding stray light sources in the room where you are shooting, as these changes introduce time-lapse flicker into the image sequence. Having your camera in any automatic mode may also introduce flicker. To get the best possible consistent exposure over many frames, shoot in manual mode, set a manual white balance, manual ISO, and manual focus. In the example video above I used a Sony A7s and FE 90mm f/2.8-22 Macro G OSS lens.

Pine cone bts2

Exposure: Six seconds at ISO 200, f/22, produced a great image, and just started to wash out the brighter white background. You can push the whites a little further in post-production, and really create a clean image background.

Time-lapse interval: To be honest I didn’t know how long I would be shooting, or when the action would begin. Times will vary, as no two cones and no two climates, or indoor humidity levels are exactly alike. The side angle pine cone shot took from about 9:00 a.m., to 3:00 a.m. the following morning, approximately 18 hours. I chose a 30 second interval, and set the shot count to infinity, so it would continually shoot until it was manually turned off. When unsure of how quickly to shoot, or how many frames to capture, it’s always good to capture more, rather than less. You can always speed up a time-lapse with too many frames, but if you don’t get enough shots and miss important movement, you are usually stuck.

Capture

These 30 second exposures, over 18 hours, resulted in about 3,246 images. That’s a lot of frames. Pine cones are slow. Much slower than I anticipated, and my interval was pretty fast capturing more frames than necessary for smooth movement. For your experiment I’d recommend increasing your interval time to about 50 seconds, or one minute. Having a longer interval time will result in less photos, and with the slow moving nature of the bloom it will not result in a jumpy or less smooth cone opening video.

Step 5: Adjust the exposures and render the time-lapse

The beauty of Lightroom, or Adobe Bridge and other applications, is that you can adjust the exposure on a single reference photo, then apply those changes across all your photos. Simple – and so is rendering the basic time-lapse. There are several different applications to choose from, to turn your collection of images into a video – varying from free and inexpensive, to not so inexpensive. Fear not, you can learn much more about time-lapse rendering in previously mentioned article, but the diagram below provides an overview of time-lapse software and applications.

Timelapse Photography by Ryan Chylinski Book Preview6

Patience is your most valuable commodity for this project. From pine cones to The Milky Way, I hope this mini peak into the world of creative time-lapse photography has ignited your curiosity to learn more. Time-lapse has a way of slowing the world for the photographer, while at the same time accelerating it for everyone else. I shoot time-lapse because it alters the way I think, it challenges my view of the world, and teaches me things I can bring back and share with everybody else. It’s a real honor and privilege to partner with you on this training journey. I hope is helpful and I would love to hear from you in the comments below.

This week over at our sister site, SnapnDeals, we have a great deal running where you can get 20% off Time-Lapse Photography: A technical and practical time-lapse tutorial guidebook for all skill levels designed to get you out the door and shooting now!

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The post How to Shoot a Pine Cone Time-lapse: A Mini Tutorial by Ryan Chylinski appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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The Old Guard – Bristlecone Pine Forest, California

03 Dec

The Old Guard  – Bristlecone Pine Forest, California

This is a still from a motion control time-lapse sequence taken during the Fall of this year. While ancient Bristlecone Pine trees are old they look young compared to the stars up above. I was particularly fond of the juxtaposition of the two subjects and I’m eager to see how my lengthy time-lapse sequence comes out.

If the stars should appear but one night every thousand years how man would marvel and stare.

– Ralph Waldo Emerson

Copyright Jim M. Goldstein, All Rights Reserved

The Old Guard – Bristlecone Pine Forest, California

The post The Old Guard – Bristlecone Pine Forest, California appeared first on JMG-Galleries – Landscape, Nature & Travel Photography.

       

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The Ancients – Bristlecone Pine Forest, California

29 Oct

Atop the White Mountains, along the eastern border of California, lies the Ancient Bristlecone Pine Forest. This area is known as the home of the worlds oldest trees including the oldest tree, Methuselah, whose age is 4,750 years.  The last time I took the time to visit this remote area I was a dedicated film shooter. On a recent visit I took advantage of the latest DSLR technology to photograph astro-landscapes while still using old film techniques, namely conducting single long exposures (not multiple image stacking). Cold weather on the order of 10-20 degrees Fahrenheit aided in keeping my camera sensor cold enough to avoid any amplifier glow or amp glow, noise caused by the circuitry heating up under extended exposures). Interestingly I found out that for similar long exposures the Canon 5D Mark II did better than the Canon 5D Mark III. The Canon 5D Mark III suffered notable amp glow while the 5D Mark II had none. Results I found quite surprising.

Photo Details

Canon 5D Mark II, Canon 16-35mm f/2.8 at 16mm, f/22, ISO 800, 91 minutes

Foreground painted with my headlamp

Copyright Jim M. Goldstein, All Rights Reserved

The Ancients – Bristlecone Pine Forest, California

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Ben Howard Old Pine – Cinematic Film

18 Nov

Watch in HD! First video I’ve made, sorry its a little shaky at times, leave a comment below and tell me what you think! Filmed with Nikon d3100 55-200mm lens. I do not own the music to this video.

*View in HD* Leighton and Josh messing around in Giddings, TX. Edited by Joshua Jack.
Video Rating: 3 / 5

 
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