Category: Photography

  • How Many Cameras Have You Owned? [POLL]

    ZA10AThis morning I opened up the cupboard in my study where I keep my camera gear and my eye was drawn to the very first digital camera that I owned – a little Canon Powershot A10 camera (pictured right) with what I thought at the time was an amazingly big 1.3 megapixel sensor. Before that I’d used a friends Sony Movica camera that had a 1.4 inch floppy disk to record the images).

    It made me think about how digital cameras have changed over the years and how many different digital cameras of different types I’ve owned.

    I have 13 cameras in that cupboard today (I have a feeling I owned another couple which may be in the hands of family or friends) plus have used numerous camera phones.

    I thought it might make an interesting poll question. How many digital cameras have you owned? Keep your response to just the cameras (not camera phones) if you can.

    Note: There is a poll embedded within this post, please visit the site to participate in this post’s poll.

    I’d also love to hear in the comments:

    1. what was your first digital camera?
    2. what has been your favorite digital camera?

    For me the first was my Canon A10 but I think my favorites would have to have been my Canon EOS 20D (my first DSLR which was when I really started to get intrigued by digital) and my Leica M9-P which helped me slow down and begin to enjoy my photography again after a period of getting a little disillusioned by it.

    What about you?

    Post originally from: Digital Photography Tips.

    Check out our more Photography Tips at Photography Tips for Beginners, Portrait Photography Tips and Wedding Photography Tips.

    How Many Cameras Have You Owned? [POLL]


    Digital Photography School

  • 5 Ideas to Kick Start Your Photography Again

    Image by Eric May

    Last week I was speaking with an amateur photographer who told me that he’s been struggling for photographic inspiration and ideas lately.

    He reflected that he felt like he’d become something of a lazy photographer and was in a bit of a rut – always photographing the same things in the same ways.

    I shared a number of ideas from my own experiences of seeking photographic inspiration (some of which I’ll share below) but it struck me halfway through the conversation that a lot of the ideas I was suggesting was actually about him limiting himself in his photography in some way – in order to find inspiration.

    Let me explain by looking at 5 photography ideas that I shared with him.

    Note: by no means am I suggesting that these are the only ways to get inspired – they’ve just helped me at times.

    5 Ideas to Kick Start Your Photography Again

    1. Fixed Focal Length Shoots

    I wrote about this recently in a challenge here on dPS. The idea is to choose a focal length and only shoot at it for a period of time.

    While many of us have become used to (or reliant upon) shooting with a zoom lens – there’s something about shooting with a prime lens (fixed focal length) that makes you think about the composition of your shots a little more.

    So choose a focal length that you don’t shoot at much and stick with it for a week and see how you go (and if you don’t have a prime lens to do this with – use your zoom but simply stick at one end of its range for a week).

    Variation: another option for this is to choose a lens that you may not have used much before. Many photographers buy multiple lenses but then stick with one, ignoring others. Alternatively swap lenses with a friend for a week or even try renting one for a short period.

    2. The 1 Roll Rule

    Image by Paul G

    I was out shooting with a photography enthusiast friend recently and was amazed at the number of shots he took. At one point we were photographing his son (who was quietly playing with lego) and my friend shot off a burst of 20 or so shots at 4 frames per second.

    Considering his son was sitting still and only really moving his fingers for those few seconds I did wonder at the need to shoot so many shots.

    Of course I also know the temptation – shooting heaps of shots is easy to do. It doesn’t really cost you anything (although fills up hard drives pretty quick) and some might think it increases your chance of capturing the perfect moment.

    The problem is that when you rely upon the quantity of your shots to improve the quality of your images that you can easily become lazy and complacent.

    Here’s my challenge – next time you go out on a shoot – limit yourself to 36 shots (the number in a roll of film). In doing so you’ll find yourself really thinking about your shots. You’ll time them better and make sure each shot counts!

    3. Turn Off the Live Preview/Review

    Image by Alan Antiporda

    Speaking of old school film photography – do you remember that feeling when you got to the end of shooting a roll of film and wondering how your shots would turn out?

    You’d put the film in for processing and wait a week or so for them to be ready and then go to the photo lab with anticipation… rip open the package and go through them one by one – reliving the moments you captured a week or so ago?

    I love that digital photography gives us instant access to the images we take – but sometimes I wonder if by having that little screen on the back of our cameras we might be missing something from the experience of photography?

    There are certainly advantages of being able to quickly review our shots or compose them on a larger screen – but similarly to my point above on shooting lots of shots I wonder if the instant review could be making us a little lazy? We’ll just keep taking shots till we’re happy.

    I personally also find myself looking at my camera a whole lot more than I am looking at the scene in front of me and wonder if some of the joy of the moment could be lost.

    So try this – turn off your LCD screen. Some cameras let you do this in your settings while others might take a little self discipline to do this – but I’d be interested to see what impact it has.

    4. Manual Focus

    Image by Shazeen Samad

    Shooting recently with the Leica M9-P (a fully manually focused camera) reminded me how little I shoot with manual focus these days.

    I admit it – I’ve become lazy and have relied too much upon Auto Focus.

    Shooting with the M9-P also reminded me how focusing manually can open up all kinds of possibilities. Just thinking about your focus rather than relying upon those 21 auto focal points your camera has (or how every many there are) puts you in a different frame of mind.

    I find shooting in manual focusing mode makes me slow down a little, consider my shots and get a little more creative.

    So switch to Manual Focusing and see what impact it has on your photography! I’d love to hear how it goes for you in comments below.

    5. Limit Yourself to an Aperture

    Image by Travis Lawton

    I was flicking through some of my shots recently in Lightroom and as the images opened in front of me I noticed something that I’d not considered much before. Almost every shot I’d taken over a month or so had been taken at the maximum aperture of the lenses I was using.

    I was shooting wide open almost all of the time.

    There were a number of reasons for this – partly I shoot a fair bit indoors where the extra aperture lets more light in – but I guess it is also part of my style. I love narrow depth of field shots – bokeh is my friend.

    However I wondered whether by shooting wide open so much I perhaps was ignoring other possibilities. Perhaps some of my portrait work would have been better if I shot with a smaller aperture and included more in focused backgrounds to give my subjects context (environmental portraits).

    For the next week I began to shoot with a smaller Aperture – it was challenging at first and I wanted to give up – but at the end of the week I realised I was again being more thoughtful with my shots and had expanded the possibilities of styles at my fingertips when shooting.

    Share Your Ideas for Finding Photographic Inspiration

    These are about half of the ideas I shared with my friend – I’ll write up the others in the coming week – but in the mean time I’d love to hear ideas from others too. What do you do when you find yourself in a photography rut needing inspiration?

    Post originally from: Digital Photography Tips.

    Check out our more Photography Tips at Photography Tips for Beginners, Portrait Photography Tips and Wedding Photography Tips.

    5 Ideas to Kick Start Your Photography Again


    Digital Photography School

  • Richoh GR Review

    Richoh GR Review.jpg

    I’m not sure how the Ricoh GR one will do in the marketplace, now that smartphones are gnawing away at the digicam sector. But, I figure it will have enormous appeal to enthusiasts and the adventurous. After all, how many people do you know who will die for a fixed lens camera?

    But wait, it images to an APS-C sized CMOS. Surely worth a dollar or two and a moment of your time to peruse this review.

    The Pentax GR is a small, magnesium alloy bodied compact camera with an f2.8 lens equivalent to a 28mm 35 SLR optic. It succeeds the 2011 camera — the GR DIGITAL IV — and upgrades the basic specs and functions of that model.

    Richoh GR Review top.jpg

    Ricoh GR Features

    The lens diaphragm is nine-bladed, so highlights are reproduced naturally; I found I could shoot directly into the light without annoying flares (see the video).

    An internal neutral density filter is accessed via the finder menu: handy to slow the shutter speed for shooting flowing subjects like tides, waterfalls etc.

    The 16.2 million pixel CMOS captures a maximum image size of 4928×3264 pixels, leading to a 42x28cm print.

    Video? Full HD capture at 1920×1080 pixels. In video, the GR takes a different path to every other digicam on the market in requiring you to tap the same shutter button for stills and video recording. I fell foul of this situation a number of times, thinking I was shooting video when I was actually shooting stills! And vice versa!

    You can easy fall into this trap as the LCD display has text of an inordinately small size, so you can easily be unaware of where you’re at! So, naturally, you can’t shoot stills while recording video.

    But … you can add effects such as Retro and Bleach Bypass to a video recording.
    Another: Ricoh calls it an Interval Composite mode. The camera can be set to fire off a sequence of timed exposures of the night sky at a fixed interval, then it selects and combines only the high-luminance pixel data from each of those images to produce a single composite image. Great when you want to combine the trails of the moon and the stars with a landscape.

    There is a useful dual-axis on screen level for horizontal and vertical alignment.

    And catch this: not only does the camera offer Bulb and Time for long exposures but you can also set the shutter to fire off exposures between 1/4000 second and 300 seconds. That’s right: five minutes!
    Balloons 2.JPG

    Dinghies and winch.JPG

    Premo stereo.JPG

    Kids on whale.JPG

    Ricoh GR Layout

    There are relatively few external controls.

    At the side of the camera: a flash activation button and beneath it is a button giving access to a range of image effects: retro, high key, miniaturise, cross processing, B&W etc. The B&W mode actually offers three variations: straight mono; tinted mono; high contrast mono.

    Top

    : on/off button; shutter button; mode dial with positions for auto, PASM, MY1/2/3 user settings and video record. This has a useful detent button that avoids the chance of an accidental alteration to the setting.

    Rear

    : just over the lip is an up-down lever that adjust shutter speed and lens aperture. Off to the right is a button to alter exposure compensation and another to give you screen replay.

    Lower down is an AF function button and lever. Set the lever to the Continuous AF (C-AF) mode and you can shoot a series of sharp images of a moving subject by tapping the shutter release button while pressing the AF button. An optional setting takes you to a continuous shooting mode, activated while the C-AF button is pressed.

    Lower still is the four way jog dial that gives access to white balance settings, menu, a function button, flash options plus macro. And here’s a trap that’s easy to fall into: set the macro function on the rear four way jog dial, turn off the power, turn it back on again and the macro function is still active. Dangerous if you want to shoot distant subjects in a hurry!

    And lower again are buttons for the self timer and screen display options.
    Menu.JPG

    The rear screen menu options are extensive, identified by a no frills list of text options.

    Ricoh GR ISO Tests

    Ricoh GR ISO 100.JPG

    Ricoh GR ISO 400.JPG

    Ricoh GR ISO 800.JPG

    Ricoh GR ISO 1600.JPG

    Ricoh GR ISO 3200.JPG

    Ricoh GR ISO 6400.JPG

    Ricoh GR ISO 12800.JPG

    Ricoh GR ISO 25600.JPG

    A slight increase in noise became evident at ISO 3200 which rose even further by ISO 6400. At ISO 12800 noise rose further still but IMHO the overall quality made it useful for some shots.

    ISO 25600: it’s all over Rose! High noise level, poor sharpness, muddy colour.

    Startup Time

    I was able to take my first shots just two seconds after startup. Follow ons came in faster than I could hit the shutter!

    Distortion

    There is slight barrel distortion.

    And a note: if you need more coverage with the fixed lens you can buy an optional wide lens converter that will effectively give you the 35 SLR equivalent of 21mm.

    Ricoh GR Verdict

    Quality: excellent in all respects: vivid, natural colour, razor sharpness. A top performer.

    Why you’d buy it

    : top lens; small form factor; copious shooting features.

    Why you wouldn’t

    : unless you surrender to the principle of a fixed focal length lens you will be frustrated; no stabiliser so it makes it less than perfect for handheld video shooting.

    A camera for the specialist.

    Ricoh GR Specifications

    Image Sensor: 16.2 million effective pixels.
    Metering: Multi zone (484), centre-weighted average; spot.
    Sensor Size: 23.7×15.7mm CMOS (APS-C).
    Lens: f2.8/18.3mm (28mm as 35 SLR equivalent).
    Exposure Modes: Program AE, shutter and aperture priority, manual.
    Shutter Speeds: 300 to 1/4000 second, Bulb and Time; movies 1/60-1/2000 second. check
    Memory: SD/SDHC/SD/SDXC/Eye-Fi plus 54 MB internal memory.
    Image Sizes (pixels): 4928×3264 to 640×480. Movies: 1920×1080, 1280×720, 640×480.
    File Formats: RAW, JPEG, MPEG4.
    ISO Sensitivity: Auto, 100-25600.
    Viewfinder: 7.6cm LCD screen (1.23 million pixels).
    Interface: USB 2.0, HDMI mini, AV.
    Power: Rechargeable lithium ion battery, DC input.
    Dimensions: 117x61x34.7 WHDmm.
    Weight: Approx. 245 g (inc card and battery).
    Price: Get a price on the Ricoh GR at Amazon.

    Post originally from: Digital Photography Tips.

    Check out our more Photography Tips at Photography Tips for Beginners, Portrait Photography Tips and Wedding Photography Tips.

    Richoh GR Review


    Digital Photography School

  • Family: Weekly Photography Challenge

    This week we’ve published a couple of posts that relate to the topic of Family so thought it might be a good theme for our weekly challenge.

    Family Portrait - Montreal 1963

    We’d love you to set aside some time this week to photograph a family member (or a close friend if you’re unable to be with family this week).

    You’re welcome to photograph one of them or a group – either in a posed setting, candidly, in an environmental portrait or in any way that suits you (and them).

    Here’s a few posts from the last week and further back in our archives to help get your thinking:

    • 10 Family Portrait Dos and Don’ts
    • How to Photograph Children
    • 5 Tips for Young Family Portraits
    • Unposed Posing: Tried and True Tips for Photographing Families in Natural and Fun Ways
    • 7 Tips for Photographing Newborns
    • 21 Sample Poses to Get You Started With Photographing Children
    • 5 Tips for Photographing Children

    Once you’ve photographed a family member

    Once you’ve taken your Family photo upload it to your favourite photo sharing site either share a link to them even better – embed them in the comments using the our new tool to do so.

    If you tag your photos on Flickr, Instagram, Twitter or other sites with Tagging tag them as #DPSFAMILY to help others find them. Linking back to this page might also help others know what you’re doing so that they can share in the fun.

    Also – don’t forget to check out some of the great shots posted in last weeks Converging Lines challenge – there were some great shots submitted.

    Post originally from: Digital Photography Tips.

    Check out our more Photography Tips at Photography Tips for Beginners, Portrait Photography Tips and Wedding Photography Tips.

    Family: Weekly Photography Challenge


    Digital Photography School

  • How to Keep Your Old Flash from Exploding

    Have a flash that's been sitting, unused, for a long time? Or did you buy a used flash with an unknown history? Turn it on the wrong way and you may be in for a bit of a surprise.

    Doesn't matter if it is a speedlight, an Alien Bee mono, a Profoto pack-and-head or whatever. Keep reading for a nifty little tidbit of info that may help you avoid seeing that "magic smoke" escape from your babies.

    Read more »
    Strobist

  • 10 Easy Ways To Take Candid Photos of Kids

    Catching kids behaving in their most natural manner and playing with other kids almost guarantees a great photograph. However, one thing you should never let happen while shooting your kids is the children looking at the camera as it will spoil the whole atmosphere. You only want to capture the innocence, warmth, silliness and sweetness of them and it is Continue Reading

    The post 10 Easy Ways To Take Candid Photos of Kids appeared first on Photodoto.


    Photodoto

  • Get an Invisible Black Background to Your Portraits – Shooting Anywhere [VIDEO]

    In this video Glyn Dewis demonstrates how he gets his ‘Invisible Black Background’ effect when taking a portraits which will allow you to take a low key atmospheric portrait with a black background anywhere – even outdoors as he does in this video.

    To get the shot Glyn just uses his DSLR, a single Speedlight Flash, a cheap umbrella and a PocketWizard to trigger the flash (although you can do this with any method of triggering a remote flash that you have).

    Want to see some more examples of what can be done with this effect – check out Glyn’s blog posts on the topic here and here.

    Post originally from: Digital Photography Tips.

    Check out our more Photography Tips at Photography Tips for Beginners, Portrait Photography Tips and Wedding Photography Tips.

    Get an Invisible Black Background to Your Portraits – Shooting Anywhere [VIDEO]


    Digital Photography School

  • On William Eggleston Meeting Henri Cartier-Bresson

    William Eggleston: You know, I had a meeting with him [Henri Cartier-Bresson], one in particular, it was at this party in Lyon. Big event, you know. I was seated with him and a couple of women. You’ll never guess what he said to me.

    Drew Barrymore: What?

    William Eggleston: “William, color is bullshit.” End of conversation. Not another word. And I didn’t say anything back. What can one say? I mean, I felt like saying I’ve wasted a lot of time. As this happened, I’ll tell you, I noticed across the room this really beautiful young lady, who turned out to be crazy. So I just got up, left the table, introduced myself, and I spent the rest of the evening talking to her, and she never told me color was bullshit.

    Source.


    Thomas Hawk Digital Connection

  • Understanding Evaluative Metering on Your EOS Camera

    01

    Photo by Flickr user MiNe

    By Andrew S. Gibson – the author of Understanding Exposure: Perfect Exposure on Your EOS Camera (currently 36% off at SnapnDeals).

    Imagine that it is early 1959. Alaska has just been admitted as the 49th state in the USA. Fidel Castro has become premier of Cuba. Elvis Presley and Buddy Holly are in the charts. And Canon releases the Flex – its first SLR camera in a time when only eight other SLR camera models were in existence.

    The Flex (pictured above) was so basic by today’s standards that it didn’t even have a built-in light meter. Instead, it used an external selenium photocell coupled to the shutter speed dial for metering. Most photographers back then used external light meters and dialled the exposure settings into their cameras, so I guess to some folk even this primitive system seemed like magic.

    The first Canon camera with through-the-lens (TTL) metering came in 1965. The Pellix had just one way of reading light levels – a 12% spot meter in the centre of the viewfinder.

    Centre-weighted averaging came along later and served photographers well until the evaluative metering system we are familiar with today was invented in the late eighties.

    Evaluative metering arrives

    The first Canon camera to feature evaluative metering was the EOS 650, released in March 1987. It was also the first Canon camera to use the newly designed EOS mount.

    The EOS 650 had a six zone evaluative metering mode. Evaluative metering has come a long way since then, and now most EOS cameras use a 63 zone metering system and advanced micro-processors to analyse the information gathered.

    02

    The auto exposure sensor from the EOS 60D. Note the grid of seven by nine black squares in the centre. These are the 63 metering zones of the EOS 60D’s iFCL evaluative metering system.

    Understanding evaluative metering

    Evaluative metering is the most sophisticated metering mode on your EOS camera. As it is the one you are most likely to use at any time, it’s useful to know how it works. Indeed, if you use your EOS camera in any fully automatic mode, it is the only metering mode the camera lets you use. You can only switch to one of the others in Program, Shutter Priority, Aperture Priority or Manual modes.

    Other metering modes

    Most EOS cameras have four metering modes: evaluative, partial, spot and centre-weighted metering (One series cameras also have multi-spot metering).

    Partial, spot and centre-weighted metering all have a single characteristic in common – they take an exposure reading from the centre of the viewfinder.

    03

    This is fine if, as in the photo above, that’s where your main subject is.

    04

    But if your subject is off-centre, like in this portrait, you have to point the centre of the viewfinder at your subject, press the shutter button half-way to lock in the exposure setting, then recompose. This is bit of a pain to say the least and wastes time.

    Evaluative metering was developed as a way of accurately metering off-centre subjects. It works by dividing the viewfinder into zones, each giving a separate reading that the camera analyses to calculate exposure. It also co-operates with your camera’s autofocus system. The reading is weighted towards the active autofocus point on the basis that it is most likely to be covering the main subject.

    05

    This is the 35 zone evaluative metering pattern used on the EOS 300D, 350D, 400D, 450D, 500D, 1000D, 10D, 20D, 30D, 40D, 50D, 5D and 5D Mark II. Note how each AF point occupies a different square.

    iFCL evaluative metering

    Canon introduced Intelligent Focus, Colour and Luminance (iFCL) evaluative metering on the EOS 7D. It has been included on every new EOS camera since then (excluding One series models).

    The premise behind this new system is that exposure meters that react to the brightness of the subject only are more sensitive to the red light than the human eye. They may think that a red coloured subject is brighter than it really is and return a false reading that underexposes the subject.

    06

    To counter this, the exposure meter used by iFCL evaluative metering has two layers. The top one is sensitive to green and blue light and the bottom one to green and red. Each layer measures the colours that it is sensitive to and the camera combines the readings to calculate exposure settings.

    In addition, iFCL metering uses information from multiple autofocus points. It knows which AF points have achieved focus, and which ones have nearly achieved focus, and weights the exposure reading towards the zones those AF points are in on the basis they are likely to be covering the subject.

    07

    The 63 zone evaluative metering pattern used by the EOS 100D, 550D, 600D, 650D, 700D, 750D, 1100D, 60D, 7D and 6D. All but the last two models use the 9 point AF pattern in the diagram.

    Evaluative metering and Speedlites

    Evaluative metering really comes into it’s own when used in conjunction with a portable Speedlite flash unit. It is important that the camera meters the light reflected from the subject in order to accurately calculate the exposure required from the flash. Centre-weighted, spot or partial metering can only do this if the subject is in the centre of the frame. Evaluative metering can cope regardless of which part of the frame the subject occupies.

    Understanding Exposure

    08

    That’s a brief overview of how evaluative metering works on your EOS camera. Hopefully it helps you understand how your camera’s metering system works and will help you take better exposed photos.

    If you’d like to learn more about how exposure works on your EOS camera my ebook Understanding Exposure is available on special now over at Snapndeals.

    Post originally from: Digital Photography Tips.

    Check out our more Photography Tips at Photography Tips for Beginners, Portrait Photography Tips and Wedding Photography Tips.

    Understanding Evaluative Metering on Your EOS Camera


    Digital Photography School

  • Family Portraits Dos and Don’ts

    Pin Itfamily-portraits.jpg

    For a photographer, skills in family portraits are are essential and are usually the bread and butter for up and coming photographers. Looking at the history of photography, one of the first popular uses the camera was not for abstract art, or photographing the family pet, but for photographing people and their families. Because of the expense and difficulty of each photo taken, they became masters at getting things right the first time and being able to fit in as many people as possible into the frame. In order to hone in on the small things that make a difference in this classic and often overlooked form of photography, I have come up with my five DOs and five DONT’s of Family Portraits. I’ve also included a few examples from portrait sessions we have done.

    Family Portraits DOs

    1) Do squish your groups together

    Most likely, even though they are family they won’t be getting close enough. Maybe it’s an American personal space thing, but it’s always been an issue for me and having everyone in tight truly makes a difference in the tone of the picture. When families are physically close, it emits a warmth and visually shows what families should be like…close. Even if you are photographing the Adam’s family, when you get everyone rubbing shoulders they look like a model family and the overall composition is more finished than a typical snapshot. As a starter, try having people stand at slight angles with shoulders overlapping. Also, consider the age of your family. If Grandma is present, make sure you have a chair for her. If grandma and grandpa are both there, you’ll will need two chairs.

    family-portraiture.jpg

    2) Do coordinate clothing

    Before you meet with your family you should guide them in a wardrobe choice. Ultimately it is up to them and their families style to choose what they wear but simply reminding them to possibly overlap in a color scheme, avoid extreme colors, prints and logos on their clothing can make a big difference. This will give you an easier time post production, and you will have both options in color and black and white. As I said, it’s their picture and their choice, but a casual recommendation from a professional is usually appreciated.

    3) Do check the screen for blinking

    Shooting and shooting is OK for one or two people, but in a larger group it can be hit and miss and you may miss that one photo where everyone has their eyes open. I used to think “Hey, its digital. I’ll use the rapid fire method and surely I’ll get one right.” After a few sessions of transplanting eyes from one photo to another in Photoshop, I’ve changed my methods. You can get away with a weak smile but if someone looks like they are sleeping or on drugs in their first family portrait in 10 years, the customer may not be too happy. With experience you learn to quickly scan across everyone’s eyes in an instant.

    4) Try and be funny to get some genuine smiles

    A few cheesy jokes work surprisingly well to break the tension. A typical photographer joke might be saying “Ok, I need everyone to get in focus.” Or asking everyone to strike their best glamor pose. Other ways to get a smile is to get them doing something they don’t normally do. Have them try jumping, running, human pyramids or whatever comes to mind. If you have a one-liner you’ve used SUCCESSFULLY, or a creative and fun pose, sound off in the comments for the rest of us.

    family-portraits.jpg

    5.) Do try and blur the background

    Choose the largest aperture setting you can, while still keeping everyone sharp. An aperture of 2.8 might make the trees and shrubbery look silky smooth, but it might make Uncle Bob at the end of the line look fuzzy. This is especially a problem when everyone is standing on different focal planes. The solution is often to shoot a few clicks smaller than the lenses widest aperture, then use the preview screen and zoom button on your camera to make sure everyone is looking good. Then adjust and continue. If you’re really serious about this, I’ve even heard of photographers setting out cups length-wise on a picnic table to estimate the distances you start to loose focus. Seems extreme to me, just don’t forget about Uncle Bob.

    family-portrait-tiops.jpg

    Family Portraits DON’TS

    1.) Don’t forget to check ALL your basic camera settings before clicking away

    ISO (go as low as possible), Image Size (RAW, fine), Exposure Compensation, Metering etc. It would be sad to get to the end of a great session and realize you didn’t change the low quality settings from the last time you used your camera shooting Garbage Pal Kids you planned on selling on Ebay. Of course in-door and out-door settings will differ as will naturally lit an artificially lit.

    2.) Don’t let your subjects tilt their heads into each other

    This is fine for your everyday Joe at the family Bar-b-que, but not a paid photographer. Subjects tend to think they will fit into the picture better if they tilt and lower their heads. Funny thing is, I’ve even caught myself doing this when I was being photographed. Watch for it and avoid it. There is always the lovey-dovey pose where they intentionally lean heads in, but that’s not what I’m talking about.

    3.) Don’t sound insecure

    Don’t say things like “This isn’t working.” Rephrase it into a positive, “Great, lets try a few more positions.” The more you tell them the pictures are looking great the better looking the pictures will get. Think high fashion cliche’s like, “Love it,” “Your beautiful,” “What a great one.” If you act like you have never seen such great photos the energy will give you just what your looking for and they will show confidence in their smiles.

    family-portraits-tips.jpg

    4/5.) These last two may seem to contradict each other so I want to put them together. 4.) Don’t let Mom run the show. 5.) Don’t be afraid to let Mom, Dad, and kids come up with ideas and posing.

    First about Mom. We all remember the drill, no running, no jumping, no dirt, and pretty much no fun until after the pictures. If you do this you can get a treat on the way home. This is probably the best way to ruin family picture day for the rest of every 8 year old’s life. Besides the fact that it is almost impossible to control what 8 year old’s do, it makes for bad portrait sessions. If you are sensing a strong arm from Mother, make sure to get the squeaky clean formals done right off the bat. They are easy and traditional. After that let mom know that you’ve got it covered and now you want to have fun with the kids. Let them be kids, let them wrestle and play and capture them at their best. Once in awhile you will find families that are more relaxed. They may have seen fun family photos of their friends and want do do some in a similar fashion. Take their suggestions without letting them think you have none of your own and work them in. Often they will turn out great and they’ll feel like they had a little more to do with the pictures than just a pretty face.

    Pin It

    Post originally from: Digital Photography Tips.

    Check out our more Photography Tips at Photography Tips for Beginners, Portrait Photography Tips and Wedding Photography Tips.

    Family Portraits Dos and Don’ts


    Digital Photography School