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Archive for January, 2019

Explorations in Natural Light for Photography

30 Jan

The post Explorations in Natural Light for Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Karthika Gupta.

Can you guess one of the most important elements in photography? No, it is not gear, or subject or even location. Yes, all of those are important, but not critical. The most important element in photography is light. And light can quite literally make or break an image. It took me a long time to understand this concept. I used to always think that light can be either good or bad. Have you ever tried to photograph indoors in that horrible florescent light? Or at high noon where you place your subjects in the light, and everyone is getting really mad at you because they are squinting in the sun.

1 - Explorations in Natural Light for Photography Karthika Gupta

Well, let’s just say we all learn from experience. Once I understood that there really is no such thing as bad light, life as a photographer just became a little easier. Light is different and understanding all the different qualities of light is what can help you photograph at any time of day and get the results you want.

For the sake of this article, we will focus only on natural light. Natural light is one of the main sources I use for most of my photography.

There are several reasons why natural light photography is so popular:

  • It is readily available and free
  • It provides a range of light variations
  • It is a super large light source a.k.a the sun
  • It changes constantly
  • It can be challenging to master and who doesn’t like a good challenge, right?

Let’s dig right in and understand all the complexes of natural light!

1. Light changes through time

The fascinating thing about natural light is that it changes constantly. Depending on the time of day, the season, or even the direction your window faces – light fluctuates minute to minute.

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Just before the sun dipped into the horizon.

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And 10-15 minutes after sunset when the sky just exploded with sun-pretty colors.

2. Light travels in a straight line but also has direction

Where is the light coming from? What angle is it coming from? I personally love the very one-directional, low-angle light that gives deep shadows that leads to a moody look. The best way to understand light direction is to look at a scene and see if it is coming from one plane, backlit, front lit etc.

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By facing the subjects directly into the light streaming through the window, we almost can create a spotlight effect.

3. Light has intensity

How intense is the light? On a sunny day the light can be quite intense, but on a cloudy day the clouds act as a natural huge diffuser, and the light not only takes on a softer quality but also has less intensity.

4. Light has color

Is it a warmer light, such as in direct sunlight, or a cool light, such as at dusk? The color in the light affects the color and white balance of the scene and hence your photograph.

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At sunset, the light is warm – exactly what I wanted for this editorial shoot.

5. Light reflects off of surfaces

This is particularly important because you have to be aware of your surroundings. This is also commonly known as a color cast in photos. Look at what’s around your scene including yourself. Your own clothing can reflect off the subject and cast unwanted color in the scene. This quality of light also allows us to try to modify light by adding a reflector to fill shadows, or a black surface to discourage any further reflections.

6. Character of light

Light can be harsh or soft or even a combination of the two which is known as dappled light. The best way to see dappled light is to stand under a tree in full sun. You will see spots of shade and sun on the ground or even on your clothes. This is dappled light. And if done right, is actually quite pretty in photos.

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I love photographing food in this uneven, dappled light…the play of light, shadows, and patterns are what make this image work for me…instead of a boring white backdrop.

7. Proximity of light

This one is a little difficult to grasp because the sun is so far away. But the closer we are to the light, the more power it has. Try this out for yourself and sit closer to the window. Is the light more intense? Now move further away from the window and see if the light feels less intense?

7 - Explorations in Natural Light for Photography Karthika Gupta

One of my absolute favorite images of all times and almost no editing involved. Side lighting and diffused window make the dancer stand out and everything else fades away.

8. Relativity of light

This is a powerful aspect of light in that the way light hits various subjects is relative. If you have light hitting the primary object without hitting the background, the background will fade into shadows no matter if it’s white/black. You can achieve a black backdrop even with a white backdrop. Our eyes have incredible dynamic range and can see everything, but by selectively lighting objects, we can take photos that let objects fade into oblivion.

Conclusion

One of the best ways to create a mental checklist of all these properties of light is to do a small exercise. Walk around your area, be it your house or office space, look at the light in a scene and categorize it. Where is it coming from, what is the quality of light, and how can you use it? The more you look and analyze, the more you add to your light repertoire and pull it out when you need it for shoots.

The post Explorations in Natural Light for Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Karthika Gupta.


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Apple mounts 32 iPhones XR on bullet-time rig to shoot experimental video

30 Jan

Apple posted an experimental video on its Youtube channel today that was edited using footage from 32 iPhone XR devices mounted on a circular bullet-time rig.

In the video you can see all sorts of different materials and objects, such as dry ice bubbles, slime or burning metal balls, filmed from varying angles, using creative lighting techniques and a range of the camera’s special modes, for example the 240 fps slow-motion mode.

A making-of video gives you a behind-the scenes look, showing how the rig is being assembled and how a team of technicians is working to achieve the desired special effects.

We’d assume most of the editing for the video done was done on a desktop or laptop computer rather than a mobile device, but still, the results are stunning and show in an impressive way what smartphone cameras are capable of these days.

This isn’t the first video of this kind. Apple shared a similar video last year and back in 2014 photographer Paul Trillo and Microsoft mounted 50 Nokia Lumia 1020 on a rig to achieve a bullet-time effect.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Photo chemistry manufacturer and supplier Tetenal Europe faces closure

30 Jan

Photo chemistry manufacturer and supplier Tetenal Europe GmbH is reportedly set to close up shop after a prolonged search for new investors failed to secure its future. Under voluntary insolvency protection since last October, the German-based firm is set to complete its current production run and close its doors at the end of the financial year on April 1st, according to a report on the German imaging + foto contact website.

The closure could have serious consequences for the film processing industry as Tetenal manufactures chemicals under its own name as well as for many third party brands across Europe. It is also the main supplier of materials for the Kodak Express chain across the continent and the only supplier of consumables and service for Konica Minolta minilabs. It is also the distributor of Kodak Aerial Imaging Films and Chemicals in Europe, Africa and the Middle East.

The company can trace its roots back to 1847 when drug wholesaler Theodor Teichgraber started distributing chemicals for wet collodion plates. Since then it has moved into the production of film chemistry for professional, high street and home users. It also has branched in to other chemical areas, such as agriculture, but has also become an important distributor for Epson, Eizo, Kodak and a range of inkjet and dye sub media.

The company had a change of management in April 2017 when Matthias Hübener stepped down from the day-to-day running of the firm for make way for Daniel Middendorf, who was still MD until this month. Hübener, who remains the business’ main shareholder, managed Tetenal for 24 years from 1993, taking over from his father Fritz who had become CEO and the main shareholder in 1960.

It isn’t clear at this stage how the closure of the Europe HQ will impact subsidiary companies in France, Poland and the UK. For more information see the Tetenal Europe GmbH website.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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WikiShootMe shows you nearby Wikipedia items in need of photographs

30 Jan

If there ever comes a time when you’re out of subjects to photograph — or you have a few free hours between shoots — take a look at WikiShootMe, a web app that uses your location to display points of interest on Wikipedia that are in need of photographs.

Hosted by Wikimedia Toolforge, WikiShootMe works by asking permission to use your current location based on your IP address. Once given permission through the browser, it displays a map provided by OpenStreetMap overlaid with different colored dots, each of which coordinates with a Wikipedia article.

Depending on the color of the dot — green, red, blue or yellow — WikiShootMe lets you know whether a photo has been taken for a specific article and what the priority is on getting one in place. Below is a legend provided in WikiShootMe’s help page:

  • Larger, green circles represent Wikidata items with an image
  • Larger, red circles represent Wikidata items without an image
  • Smaller, blue circles represent Commons images
  • Smaller, yellow circles represent Wikipedia articles, in the current language edition (see the language selector in the upper-right corner)

To upload images, you must first create a MediaWiki account and authorize it for uploading content. Once authorized, you’re free to upload content with the help of WikiShootMe. Images uploaded will automatically list you as the copyright holder under the CC-BY-SA-3.0 license.

To take WikiShootMe for a spin, head to the web app. It works on both desktop and mobile devices, meaning you’re free to upload DSLR or mobile photos.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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OWC unleashes 2nd gen ThunderBlade SSD drives with a top speed of 5000MB/s

30 Jan

Other World Computing, often shortened to OWC, has released the ThunderBlade Gen 2 external SSD.

This second-generation external SSD comes at a lower price point than its predecessor while offering improved performance. Specifically, the ThunderBlade Gen 2 runs cooler than its previous version while keeping its ‘near-silent’ operation thanks to a finless design. The SSDs can be stacked and up to six can be daisy-chained together.

OWC says the drives can reach speeds up to 3,800MB/s when multiple are used alongside OWC’s SoftRAID program — that equates to roughly 1TB of data being transferred in just four and a half minutes. On their own, the drives are capable of transfers up to 5000MB/s. These speeds are achieved with the onboard dual Thunderbolt 3 ports, which use the USB Type-C connector.

As you could expect from such performance, these drives aren’t cheap. The ThunderBlade Gen 2 external SSDs come in 1TB, 2TB, 4TB and 8TB capacities for $ 799, $ 1,199, $ 1,899 and $ 3,499, respectively. Each drive comes with a custom hard-shell case, a Thunderbolt 3 cable and a three year OWC limited warranty.

To purchase and find more information on the ThunderBlade Gen 2 drives, head over to OWC’s website.


Update (January 29, 2019): This article has been edited to clarify that when daisy-chained, the ThunderBlade Gen 2 SSD drives can reach speeds of 3,800MB/s when used alongside OWC’s SoftRAID program and speeds of 5,000MB/s when used individually. The previous version of this article implied the top speed of the drives themselves were 3,800MB/s.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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5 Secret Tips to Take Sharp Photos Using Any Camera

30 Jan

The post 5 Secret Tips to Take Sharp Photos Using Any Camera appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kunal Malhotra.

How to take sharp photos is one of the most common issues a beginner photographer faces. In order to suggest a few important tips, I went back a few years and recalled the issues I used to come across.

Here are five tips I learned over the years to ensure I always take sharp photos using any camera.

1. Select Maximum AF Points

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Every digital camera has a certain number of focus points, which are used by the camera to lock focus. By default, you can either allow the camera to use all the focus points or reduce them to a specific number such as 11, 9 or even one point.

I make sure that I am making use of all the focus points, to minimize the use of ‘focus and recompose.’ Keeping all the focus points active ensures that you get to use the entire focusing area on the sensor. Whereas, reducing the active focus points makes you focus and recompose the frame, resulting in soft focus.

2. 1-point AF

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In the majority of situations, using single-point autofocus can help you nail the focus. Because if you allow the camera to lock focus as per its functionality automatically, there are chances that the focus might go off.

Assume you are taking a portrait, and in order to achieve crisp focus, you wish to focus on the eye of the subject. While using autofocus point selection, chances are, the camera might focus on the nose or the lips. The reason this happens is the camera does not know that you want to want to focus on the eye specifically.

Now by using the single-point autofocus feature, you can manually select the point where your eye is in the frame. Doing so, allows you to get the accurate focus on the eye, without any hit and trial method.

3. Back Button focus technique

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There are some situations when you try to focus on a subject and the camera takes some time before you can fully press the shutter release button. Alternatively, when you want to take photos in Burst Mode the camera misses focussing on a few shots. You can eliminate these issues and achieve accurate focus by using the back button focus method.

The Back Button focus technique allows you to assign a button placed on the rear side of your camera to focus, and the shutter release button when pressed fully, captures the image.

While using this technique, you will realize that on pressing the shutter release button halfway, nothing happens. This is because another button using your thumb is now controlling the focusing.

4. Use of Shutter Priority

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If you are a wildlife, action or sports photographer, there might have been instances where you were not able to freeze the motion of your subject. Moreover, if you shoot in low-lighting conditions, you might have encountered shake in your photos.

In any of the above situations, I make sure that I am using my camera on Shutter Priority mode. The basic rule that I start with is using the shutter speed 1/2x of the focal length. For example, while shooting at 50mm, I ensure that I start shooting by using 1/100 sec (1/2×50 = 1/100). In the worst situations, I reduce the shutter speed by 1-2 stops if my lens supports Image Stabilization.

Using the Shutter Priority mode ensures that your camera is using a specific shutter speed that results in no or minimum shake in the image. If you wish to freeze the motion of a moving subject, you can dial a fast shutter speed like 1/2000 sec and let the camera do the remaining math.

5. Take backup shots

The last important tip to get sharp photos would be to take a few backup shots during your shoot. Imagine if you are doing a commercial shoot and when you return to your editing desk you realize that the subject is out of focus or the image is not sharp.

Make sure that after clicking the desired photo, you take a few extra photos of the same frame. These backup photos reduce the risk and increase the possibility of getting sharp photos.

In the past 8-9 years, these five tips have helped me to nail focus in almost any situation and deliver quality work to my clients.

Do you have other tips? Do share your views in the comment below.

The post 5 Secret Tips to Take Sharp Photos Using Any Camera appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kunal Malhotra.


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Irix Edge Light Pollution filter targets the yellow glow from sodium lamps

29 Jan

Irix has released a new filter in its Edge product line and the first in its Super Endurance (SE) series, the new Irix Edge Light Pollution filter. The offering, which appears to be a glorified UV/Haze filter, is available in 67mm, 72mm, 77mm, 82mm, and 95mm sizes and features durable optical glass strengthened with “a special thermal treatment” and multiple coatings.

Irix says its new Light Pollution filter is designed to be used in urban environments and for nighttime photography where light pollution may obscure stars and natural colors. The filter is designed to remove the yellow glow resulting from sodium lights commonly used in urban environments.

In addition to multiple anti-reflective coatings to minimum reflections, the new Irix filter has a nano coating that repels oil and water. The surrounding aluminum frame sports a black finish resistant to damage and flares. For additional protection, Irix is selling the filter with a protective case for transportation and storage.

The new Irix Edge Light Pollution filter is available in the following sizes and prices:

  • 67mm: 95 EUR / $ 108 USD
  • 72mm: 107 EUR / $ 122 USD
  • 77mm: 125 EUR / $ 143 USD
  • 82mm: 135 EUR / $ 154 USD
  • 95mm: 149 EUR / $ 170 USD

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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How to Add a Toy Camera Effect to Your Digital Images Using Photoshop

29 Jan

The post How to Add a Toy Camera Effect to Your Digital Images Using Photoshop appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Megan Kennedy.


They may look cute, but toy cameras aren’t actually toys at all. The name refers to inexpensive film cameras made predominantly of plastic and paired with a simplistic lens.

From around the 1990s, toy cameras garnered popularity for their distinctive aesthetic. Cameras like the Diana and Holga are embraced, light leaks and all, for their wonderfully unpredictable results.

With their vignetting, blurry focus and lens distortion, photographers armed with toy cameras relinquish control over the definitive outcome of the image, adding a palpable sense of serendipity to the photographic process.

Applying a toy camera effect to a digital photograph isn’t the same as using a toy camera itself, I know. But it’s a fun way to add a unique retro feel to a photograph while making use of the control that a digital camera affords.

Here’s how to add a toy camera effect to a digital photograph using Photoshop.

1. Cropping your image

Open up your image in Photoshop. Here’s my starting image.

The original image

Toy cameras work within a square format, so you’ll need to crop your photograph accordingly. Select the Crop Tool from the left toolbar. In the top toolbar, click on the dropdown menu that regulates the crop ratio. Select 1×1 (Square).

A square demonstrating the crop parameters will appear over your image. Adjust the parameters until you are happy and press enter.

2. Applying a vignette

With your layer selected in the Layers palette, go to Layer -> Duplicate Layer. A dialogue box will pop up. In the input field next to “As:” type “Layer 1” and click OK. This duplicates your current layer so you can work non-destructively.

Next, right click on Layer 1 and select Convert to Smart Object.

Select Filter -> Lens Correction and a dialog box will open. Click on the Custom tab. In the Vignette section of the Custom tab, adjust the Amount slider and the Midpoint slider until you have a nice, dark vignette (for this image I set the amount to -100 and the midpoint to +10). Repeat this step if you want a darker vignette.

Use the Lens Correction function to apply a vignette to your image

3. Adding blur

As I mentioned before, a lot of photographs taken with a toy camera are unfocused or blurry. To emulate this, make sure Layer 1 is selected and go to Filter->Blur->Gaussian Blur. In the Gaussian Blur window set the Radius from 5 to 10 pixels depending on your image and click OK.

In the Gaussian Blur window set the Radius from 5 to 10 pixels depending on your image and click OK

4. Adjusting colors

Toy cameras often lend a distinctive color-cast to photographs. In the layers panel, click on the Create a new fill or adjustment layer button and select Curves. In the Curves adjustment palette click on the RGB menu, select the red channel and create a shallow ‘S’ bend. Select the green channel and apply the same shallow ‘S’ shape. Now select the blue channel and create an inverted ‘S’.

Use the curves function to emulate the distinctive color-cast often encountered in photos taken with a toy camera

5. Creating light leaks

One fun characteristic of toy cameras are light leaks. A light leak is caused by a hole or gap in the body of the camera, allowing light to “leak” into the film chamber. This exposes the film to excess light. The result is whimsical fields of color that add character to a photograph and illustrate the photographic process.

To emulate light leaks you first need to create a new layer. Click on the Create a new layer button at the bottom of the layers panel and rename the layer “Light leaks”.

Select your brush tool and set the brush size to around 2000 and your hardness to 0%. Set the foreground color to your preferred color – usually red, yellow or blue. With the “Light leaks” layer selected, dot or streak one or two patches of color over your image.

Once you are done painting the light leaks, change the Blending Mode of the layer by clicking on the Blending Modes dropdown menu and selecting Color. You can change the opacity of the light leaks by toggling the Opacity slider on the layers panel too.

Conclusion

And there you have it. Now that you know how to add a toy camera aesthetic to your photograph, the possibilities are endless. This is a great opportunity to make use of unfocused, spotty or noisy digital images. It’s the next best thing to using a real toy camera yourself!

Here are a couple of my own creations below, post yours in the comments!

 

The post How to Add a Toy Camera Effect to Your Digital Images Using Photoshop appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Megan Kennedy.


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Panasonic Lumix LX100 II added to enthusiast compact buying guide: Joint-winner with Sony RX100 VA

29 Jan

Following testing of the Panasonic Lumix DC-LX100 II, we’ve added it to our Pocketable Enthusiast Compact Cameras buying guide as joint-winner, alongside Sony’s Cyber-shot RX100 VA.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Samsung to acquire smartphone camera tech company CorePhotonics

29 Jan

According to sources familiar with the matter, Korean smartphone maker Samsung is close to acquiring Israel-based technology company CorePhotonics. The deal could be worth $ 150 million.

CorePhotonics isn’t a company end consumers are too familiar with, but it has been one of the pioneers of the multi-camera trend in smartphones. Most notably it was the company behind OPPO’s 5x zoom module and was likely also involved in the creation of OPPO’s latest 10x zoom camera. It’s unknown at this point what the acquisition would mean for the relationship with OPPO.

The CorePhotonics name also appeared in the news when the company filed several law suits against Apple for patent infringement. The legal dispute is still ongoing.

Zoom reach is one of the very few areas where smartphone cameras still can’t keep up with stand-alone compact cameras and is likely going to be an important differentiator for brands when launching the next generations of smartphones. In this context the acquisition makes a lot of sense for a manufacturer like Samsung.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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