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Posts Tagged ‘White’

Kayaking the White Salmon river with Rush Sturges and the Panasonic Lumix DC-S1H

25 Aug

The Panasonic Lumix DC-S1H is a powerful video camera, designed for enthusiast and professional filmmakers.

A more specialized tool than the DC-S1 and S1R, the S1H is packed with video-centric features including 4:2:2 10-bit internal shooting, 400Mbps recording and unlimited record time, plus a wide range of compression and high-speed shooting options. Featuring a stabilized 24MP sensor, the S1H can shoot video at up to 6K. But really, this is a 4K powerhouse, intended for serious professional use.

Join cinematographer and lifelong kayaker Rush Sturges as he takes the S1H to the White Salmon river, to see what it can do.

S1H sample images by Rush Sturges

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This is sponsored content, created with the support of Amazon and Panasonic. What does this mean?

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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7 Awesome Tips for Black and White Still Life Photography

06 Aug

Great black and white photography is stunning. It’s eye catching, emotive, and expressive. Usually, it’s also wonderfully simple. So is still life photography. In this article, I’ll give you seven tips on how to create stunning black and white still life photographs. Before we get into the tips I’d first like to answer a couple of foundational questions: What makes Continue Reading

The post 7 Awesome Tips for Black and White Still Life Photography appeared first on Photodoto.


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Black and White are Rarely Black or White

30 May

The post Black and White are Rarely Black or White appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Herb Paynter.

dps-black-or-white-tone

There are very few absolutes in this life. Most issues we face fall into more “gray areas” than the purely polar dictionary definitions of actual black and white. We use these terms rather cavalierly when expressing personal opinions even when real-life situations are anything but! This is also true in a number of photography-related issues. Since photography is the topic de jour, I’ll turn the conversation in that direction. I’ll explain to you how black and white are rarely black or white.

Black and White are Rarely Black or White
Total black and white can lose important detail. Occasionally this is appropriate for drama, but in general, even the darkest areas of an image should contain contrasting tones. f/9, 1/250, ISO 200, 70.0-200.0 mm f/2.8.

The hard facts

Black is the total absence of light, as in a cave at midnight with your eyes closed. Nada, nothing, total emptiness. Nothing is quite as disorienting or scary as total blackness. Blackness is un-relational and unforgiving. Even our sense of balance is affected by our inability to orient ourselves to our environment. What we can’t see, we can’t relate to.

Black and White are Rarely Black or White – waves crashing on rocks
Opening up the darkest channel (unfortunately labeled “Black” in most software) can reveal a depth that otherwise gets buried in the D-max of the photographic medium.

White is at the other end of the light measurement scale, defined as a direct unobstructed blast of light from the Sun at noon. Blinding, blazing, searing, scorching light.

True white light would actually blow the rods out of our eyes and leave us (at least temporarily) blinded. Perhaps it is good that we don’t try to function either physically or psychologically in either of these two extremes.

Dark and light vs black and white

In the photographic film and darkroom world, “D-max” and “D-min” determined the total light range of photographic prints and transparencies. Actual black and white light measurements simply cannot (by definition) be replicated in photographic materials.

D-max refers to the maximum light blocking capacity (density) of a particular film or print. D-max is the point of maximum development for either film or prints in a traditional (chemistry-emulsion) darkroom environment.

D-max for an inkjet printer would be the darkest black that can be achieved by a particular ink on a particular paper (yes, some different inks and papers achieve different results).

D-min would be the highest light-reflective measurement possible from a particular paper with no ink.

In either case, neither “actual” black nor total white is possible. In truth, black and white cannot be expressed in the medium of photography, though we still employ the terms.

Black and White are Rarely Black or White - an example of black tones
Actual original image (left) and adjusted image (right). No kidding. RAW files deliver! f/2.8, 1/250, ISO 1600, 35-100mm, f/2.8.

Real-life vision vs digital interpretation

By contrast, we live our everyday lives in the natural world where we can experience this “actual” extreme range of natural light. We occasionally witness these extreme lighting conditions, and this reference to reality keeps our lives in clear focus.

There exists a broad range of contrast in nature’s lighting that keeps our visual cortex amused and intrigued. We experience the extremes of light and dark almost every day, and our eyes adjust to these dynamics quite naturally. But in the subdued visual expression called photography, we are restricted to using a much more muted palette, which presents our minds with a different challenge.

Our brains insist on detail to help us navigate this world, both visually and rationally. We are a relational species, and we rely on the existence of distinct details in our surroundings in order to relate and negotiate our way through those surroundings. The very same issue determines how we relate to things photographic, which brings me to my point – finally.

Black and White are Rarely Black or White
Every physical item that we describe as “black” must be distinguished from actual dictionary-definition “black” if it is to be seen as a dimensional object.

Detail is all about contrast

Contrast is the determining factor in detail. Without contrasting tones, there can be no detail.

Our eyes get to experience the full dynamic range of light in real life. However, in photos, our perception is very limited by the whole visual D-max/D-min thing. We must learn to use what range we have to mimic the range that we don’t… get it? Pushing the internal tones around within an image will simulate the full range of tones that we normally see (and often take for granted) in real life.

Black and White are Rarely Black or White
Another example of extremes. The lighting was good on the female, but the male model was underlit. Some serious internal adjustments were made in one copy of the RAW file, and a masked copy of the correction was placed into the scene. Once again, tonal reproduction is key. f/3.2, 1/250, ISO 1600, 35-100mm, f/2.8.

In a practical sense, the detail is created when a visual relationship is established. The greater the contrast between tones, the sharper the detail becomes.

In order to express detail in a dark area, there must be a distinction between black and “almost black.” Without that distinct separation, there can be no detail.

There is a cardinal rule when printing a photo on a printing press… “there are no absolute blacks and only specular (reflections) pure whites in print.” Even pure white must contain a tonal element to maintain dimension and texture – neither black nor white express detail.

Black must be implied more than stated. Even a black hat or garment must contain tones of dark gray to carry the illusion of detail.

black or white
Black is a relative term. Total black loses important detail and dimension. f/4.5, 1/50, ISO 1600, 35-100mm, f/2.8.

Delivering the impression

When a photo lacks internal contrast, it lacks detail. The tension of contrast creates both detail and definition. Of course, even detail is a relative thing. Not all images require the same dynamic appearance. If all pictures contained the same degree of (internal or overall) contrast, the monotony of sameness would probably drive us to boredom.

The point I want to make here is that in order to keep the human mind amused, engaged, and involved, we must learn to use all the tone dynamics at our disposal.

Fortunately, the human mind (and it’s willing accomplice, the visual cortex) provide us with a very forgiving and creative instrument that interprets (and believes) the limited dynamics of printed photos. When this tonal orchestration is successfully accomplished, the result can be breathtaking.

We were designed to be very creative. Start believing that and watch the magic happen.

The post Black and White are Rarely Black or White appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Herb Paynter.


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Black and White Photography Exercises to Help You Improve Your Skills

23 May

The post Black and White Photography Exercises to Help You Improve Your Skills appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kevin Landwer-Johan.

dps-black-and-white-photography-exercises

Black and white photography exercises can help you gain an understanding of how it differs from color photography. Concentrating on black and white images helps develop your photography in many ways.

“Color is descriptive. Black and white is interpretive.” ~ Eliott Erwitt

Boy calling in a market.
© Kevin Landwer-Johan. Nikon D700, 120mm, 1/800 sec, f/2.8, ISO 400, Manual Mode, Spot Metering.

Thinking in black and white

Loading a black and white film into your camera forced you to think in black and white. This is different with digital photography because it’s easy to convert a color image to monotones.

There are plenty of tools to help you do this. The Nik Software Silver Effects Pro is a superb Photoshop plug-in for converting color images to black and white.

Purposefully photographing in black and white is different than converting during post production. A photographer must think differently when their intention is to create photos without color. You see in color, so you must learn to disregard the color and think in black and white. Good black and white photography is not about taking the colors out of a photo.

Black and white photography relies on contrast and tone range and how these relate within your compositions. You must learn to look at the tones, not the colors, as you compose your photos.

Light has a huge influence on the tones in a photograph. The camera records reflected light to make photos. The amount and quality of the light used defines how a subject will appear when you take a photo of it. Hard light or soft light will produce very different results. This is the same with color, but it’s more pronounced in black and white photography.

One of the best ways you can learn to do this is by practicing black and white photography exercises.

Portrait of a man in the studio
© Kevin Landwer-Johan. Nikon D800, 35mm f/1.4, 1/100 sec, f/4, ISO 100, Manual Mode, Spot Metering.

Choose one subject for these black and white photography exercises

Find one or two interesting subjects to photograph for these exercises. You may even choose to set up a small still life scene with various objects you have around the house. This will allow you to make comparisons and see differences.

You need to find things you can move around and place in different locations.

Look for things that are not all black or all white. A mixture of tones will produce the most helpful results. If you photograph something(s) with white, black and mid-tones you’re going to be able to see the effects more clearly in your photos.

The main aim of these black and white photography exercises is to help you develop a better understanding of tone. Don’t try to make masterpiece photos that you’ll hang on your living room wall. If you do, that will be a bonus.

black and white photography exercises example one
Soft light, outdoors on a cloudy day using Averaged light metering. Nikon D800, 55mm f/3.5, 1/800 sec, f/8, ISO 400, Manual Mode, Pattern Metering.

Lighting for black and white photography exercises

The reason you need to photograph something you can move is so you can photograph it in different locations and lighting conditions.

The type of light you photograph your subjects in, directly affects how they will look. Using hard light will produce very different-looking black and white photos than when you use soft light.

Strong light creates high contrast, no matter what tone your subject is. Soft light makes an even exposure much easier. Think about the quality of light and how it affects the look and feel of your photographs as you work.

Hard light

Place your subject in a location with hard light. Outside on a sunny day is ideal because you’ll be able to see where the shadows fall.

If you can’t manage that, using an on-camera flash with no diffuser will produce a hard light. You’ll need to take test images and study them to see where the shadows fall.

Take a series of photos from the first angle you think of. Expose some normally. Use averaged metering and set your exposure so the meter reads zero, or let your camera choose the setting if you use an auto mode.

black and white photography exercises example two
Hard light, outdoors on a sunny day using spot metering from the highlight on the steel jug. Nikon D800, 55mm f/3.5, 1/800 sec, f/11, ISO 400, Manual Mode, Spot Metering.

Next, expose for the highlights.

Take a light meter reading from the brightest part of your composition.

To do this, set your camera’s meter to spot and point the spot at the bright area to take your reading. If you use live view, your camera may display the way your photo will look when you use manual mode. This way, you can adjust the exposure for the highlights based on what you see on your monitor. On many mirrorless cameras, the viewfinder will display the exposure the same as this when you are set to manual mode.

After taking a few photos with these settings, use the same technique to set your exposure so the shadow areas will be exposed well. Take another series of photos.

black and white photography exercises example three
Hard light, outdoors on a sunny day using spot metering from the darkest area on the black jug. Nikon D800, 55mm f/3.5, 1/250 sec, f/11, ISO 400, Manual Mode, Spot Metering.

If you’re finding this exercise valuable and you have time, repeat this process.

Move around your subject and make compositions from different angles. Remember, the first angle you think to take a photo from is the most obvious, but not always the most interesting. Look at the way the light is falling on your subject and how the shadows look. Repeat the process and take photos at the three different exposure settings.

Soft light

If you’re photographing outdoors in the sun, move your subject into a shady area. Find somewhere outside where there’s still plenty of daylight.

If you’re inside and have been using your flash, take this next series of photos without using your flash. You may need a tripod if there’s not much light.

black and white photography exercises example four
Soft light, outdoors on a cloudy day using spot metering from the highlight on the steel jug. Nikon D800, 55mm f/3.5, 1/2500 sec, f/8, ISO 400, Manual Mode, Spot Metering.

Repeat the same series of exposures as you did when you were photographing in hard light. Think about the tones in your composition when you are making your exposure readings and looking at the results.

If you’ve been photographing outdoors, move your subject inside and away from any windows or other strong light and repeat the whole process. This lower contrast situation will produce different results again. The variation will be subtle, but it’s interesting to see.

During this process, make notes about what you are doing and your thought process. You don’t need to record your camera settings as these are included in the EXIF data. Instead, write down what you are observing with the tones, light and shadows. Why did you take photos from these angles? How has the light and tone affected the way you’ve chosen to compose your photos?

Black and White Photography Exercises to Help You Improve Your Skills
Soft light, outdoors on a cloudy day using spot metering from the darkest area on the black jug. Nikon D800, 55mm f/3.5, 1/80 sec, f/8, ISO 400, Manual Mode, Spot Metering.

Make the most of shadows

Especially in hard light, shadows have a major impact on black and white photography exercises.

Think about where the light is coming from in relation to where you are with your camera. How does this change the way the composition looks when you move around your subject? How does it change when you move your subject?

This is easier to see when you are working with the sun as your light source. Using flash, you’ll need to refer back to your monitor often to see the variations. Look at the differences in the shadow areas in the different sets of photos. How different do they look when you exposed for the shadows and when you exposed for the highlights?

Woman sewing with an old machine
© Kevin Landwer-Johan. Nikon D800, 35mm f/1.4, 1/200 sec, f/3.2, ISO 160, Manual Mode, Pattern Metering.

Think creatively

Once you’ve uploaded the photos to your computer. Select one image from each setup and each exposure setting. Simply desaturate all of these photos. This is not an ideal means for converting your photos to black and white, but it will suffice for this exercise.

Now look at these and compare them. Think about the way they look and the differences between the exposure settings. Consider how the various light has had an effect on the tone of your subjects.

Under hard light and soft light, you’ll notice the tone of your subjects looks different. Each set of photos taken at the various exposure settings will produce very different results. This is particularly noticeable with those taken under hard light.

Worker at the street market
© Kevin Landwer-Johan. Nikon D800, 50mm f/1.4, 1/400 sec, f/4, ISO 250, Manual Mode, Pattern Metering.

Choose one photo from each set to make some further post-processing adjustments. Work with the sliders for:

  • contrast,
  • shadows,
  • blacks,
  • highlights
  • and whites.

Experiment with these various settings. Play with them. Discover how much impact post-processing has on these black and white photography exercises. What you can do with post-processing monotone images is beyond the scope of this article, so just have some fun with it.

I’d love to see some of your best results and know what you learned by doing this exercise. You can share your photos and thoughts in the comments section below.

The post Black and White Photography Exercises to Help You Improve Your Skills appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kevin Landwer-Johan.


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White House photographer Pete Souza shows off what gear is in his bag

05 Apr

Pete Souza, the former Chief Official White House Photographer for U.S. Presidents Ronald Reagan and Barack Obama, has taken to Instagram to show off what camera gear he uses for his work.

Throughout the 12-minute video, he details his equipment of choice and shows off images captured with nearly every camera and lens he mentions. Along the way, he also shares a number of anecdotes from over the years, regarding how his style and approach has changed as camera technology continues to progress.

Despite the fascinating video of his most-used equipment, Souza prefaces it by explaining the camera and lenses are simply tools to get the job done, likening them to a trio of screwdrivers; ‘They all work equally well […] I don’t know what brand or model [the screwdrivers] are. You just have to make a decision yourself on what kind of equipment to use.’

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Info on what tools I used at the White House.

A post shared by Pete Souza (@petesouza) on

You can find more of Souza’s work on his website, as well as the archived White House Flickr account that shows more than 6,600 images captured during his time as Obama’s official photographer.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Video: Photographer Alan Schaller offers seven tips for black and white street photography

12 Feb

Cooperative of Photography (COOPH) has published a new video featuring London-based photographer Alan Schaller, who introduces viewers to seven tips for shooting black and white street photography. The video packs the seven tips into five quick minutes.

Schaller’s tips are relatively straightforward, including the recommendation that photographers should go out and shoot in black and white on purpose, should focus on what makes black and white photography interesting and that they should change their perspective.

As well, Schaller recommends that budding black and white street photographers learn to adjust to the lightning situation, ‘make good use of’ their environment, shoot images with a ‘good range of contrast’ and, finally’ to ‘edit wisely.’

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Leica’s M10 Monochrom is a discreet black and white rangefinder

17 Jan

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Leica has introduced its latest dedicated black and white rangefinder camera, the M10 Monochrom. It uses a new 40MP sensor that Leica says was ‘designed from the ground up’ to handle black and white photography. The new sensor has lowered the base ISO from 320 to 160, and Leica also claims an improvement in dynamic range.

To go along with its black and white pictures, Leica has removed any hint of color on the camera body. The neutral gray body has no red Leica badge or any scripting on top, giving it a stealthy appearance. The body is just as thin as the other M10 models and has the ISO dial they introduced. It also has the same silent shutter and touchscreen display as the M10-P. Photos can be transmitted via Wi-Fi and Leica’s Fotos app.

The M10 Monochrom is now available for $ 8295.

Official sample photos

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Press Release

Leica Camera Advances its Dedication to the Art of Black & White Photography with the Leica M10 Monochrom

The highly anticipated camera enters a new dimension of innovation in the world of monochrome photography

January 17, 2020 – Leica Camera continues to be a trailblazer in the world of black-and-white photography with the announcement of the new Leica M10 Monochrom. Photographers are now able explore their subjects in vivid tones of monochrome due to the omission of a color filter, resulting in an unparalleled black-and-white photography experience. The newly developed 40-megapixel true black-and-white sensor, new Wi-Fi capabilities and expanded ISO range make room for added creativity with light and contrast, bringing photographers back to the basics with the most up-to-date technology.

Black-and-white photography lends itself to establishing emotional connections between the photographer and subject matter being conveyed. With the absence of color, a photograph conveys intense, vulnerable and timeless messages that speak to the foundation of a scene without the distractions of color.

The ultra-high resolution black-and-white sensor of the M10 Monochrom delivers images with impeccable sharpness and unrivalled resolution of details in all lighting conditions. While reaching these new feats of resolving prowess, the new M10 Monochrom is even more versatile than its black-and-white forebears, with a broadened sensitivity range at both extremes, now achieving ISO 160 to ISO 100,000 – ensuring that its unmatched imaging strengths can be used in new avenues, from the brightest of days to uncovering light in the darkest of nights. Images captured at all ISO settings offer fine-grained rendition of details with a more analog look and feel than a typical color camera set to black-and-white mode. As is the case with all Leica M-Cameras, the new black-and-white sensor pairs perfectly with the full breadth of Leica M-Lenses, showcasing their contrast, resolution and rendition of the finest details. With this combination, photographers can rest assured that the exceptional quality of the monochrome images they capture holds true to the luminance of their subject.

Based on the Leica M10-P, the M10 Monochrom now benefits from a bevy of newfound abilities for the Monochrom line, including a slimmer body, dedicated ISO dial, touchscreen controls, the quietest mechanical shutter of all Leica M rangefinders – analog or digital – and built-in Wi-Fi for wireless connectivity to the Leica FOTOS app on iOS, iPadOS and Android. For the first time in the history of Leica M Monochrom cameras, users can utilize a mobile workflow that gives them direct access to authentic black-and-white images straight from the camera to their favored social media platform – no digital filters required. The FOTOS 2.0 app helps bring Leica users from the decisive moment of taking the picture to the creative moment of processing and sharing the finished photo as seamlessly as possible. This new freedom ensures no boundaries when it comes to capturing and sharing photographs with a Leica camera.

The design of the M10 Monochrom camera body is as loyal to the strict adherence to the black-and-white aesthetic as the image sensor that lives within it. The camera has no Leica red dot logo on the front and all of the usual bold red engravings found on most M cameras have been desaturated to a neutral gray, creating a sleek monochromatic contrast against its bright white engraved numbers. A subtle black-on-black logotype of “Leica M10 Monochrom” on the top plate gives the camera the most minimal branding to avoid distractions. The black-and-white design details combined with the newly blacked-out shutter button and lens release make the M10 Monochrom the stealthiest serial production camera yet from Leica, emphasizing its focus on blending into the heart of the action and capturing the decisive moment.

The M10 Monochrom is built to the highest quality standards expected of a Leica M camera, made almost entirely by hand through the passionate labor of experienced specialists in Wetzlar, Germany with the finest materials, ensuring it can bear even the toughest conditions of use in its stride. The new Leica M10 Monochrom promises to be a long-term companion that delivers an unparalleled experience and impeccable image quality, as timeless as the classical black-and-white photos it creates.

The Leica M10 Monochrom is available beginning today for $ 8,295 at Leica Stores, Boutiques and Dealers.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Tips for Processing Black and White Images in Photoshop

15 Jan

The post Tips for Processing Black and White Images in Photoshop appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by John McIntire.

tips-for-processing-black-and-white-images-in-photoshop

If you’re a lover of black and white imagery (like many of us photographers are), then you are probably aware of the many, many options there are for you to convert your images to black in white in Photoshop (and other software packages). Conversion is only the first step in processing black and white images. Once you have gotten rid of the color in your photos, you will still want to control and manage the tones in your images to get the best results possible. This article will introduce you to a few of these Photoshop tools that you can use to create images with impact.

Tools for processing black and white images in Photoshop

Global/Local Adjustments

Before jumping straight into the list of tools, it is important to differentiate between two different types of adjustments you can make to your images.

Global Adjustments – Global adjustments are adjustments that affect the entire image. For example, if you use the contrast slider in Lightroom, it alters the contrast in the entire image.

Global adjustments in processing black and white images.

As a global adjustment, this curves layer that was meant to bring down the highlights has affected the whole image and not in a pleasant way.

Local Adjustments – Local adjustments are made to specific areas of an image that you define. For example, you can adjust the contrast for a portrait subject’s eyes and the contrast for their shirt separately.

Local adjustments in processing black and white images.

Using a layer mask allowed for a local adjustment, meaning the curves layer only affected the mid-tones surrounding the subject’s face.

What this means for your images

These distinctions are important because, in most cases, you will want to avoid profound global adjustments on your images. Most photos are made of scenes of different elements. If you think of this in terms of portraiture, imagine a person standing against a studio backdrop, such as the image below.

Isolating areas of tonality in processing black and white images.

Dividing an image into areas of tonality and then making adjustments to those areas separately, gives you complete control over your images.

Here, you can divide the image up into several parts. You have the subject’s skin, eyes, shirt, hair, and background. Each of these elements reacts differently to various adjustments. By using global adjustments, you will alter the appearance of these elements at the same time.

For example, if you want to increase the contrast of the shirt by a large amount to help bring out the texture, then you will also be increasing the contrast of the subject’s skin. As a general guide, you usually don’t want to increase contrast on skin. More often than not, you will want to reduce it.

How do you go about increasing the contrast of a shirt while reducing contrast on the skin at the same time? Through the use of local adjustments.

Tools for applying local adjustments

There are a lot of ways to apply local adjustments to your images in Photoshop. Here is a primer on a handful of them.

The right tool for the job depends entirely on the job at hand. By learning how to use several of these options, you will arm yourself with a variety of ways to use local adjustments while processing black and white images.

Remember, this is an introduction to the various tools that you can use and not a full tutorial.

Layer masks

Layer masks are probably the easiest and most common way to get started with local adjustments in Photoshop. If you’re not already familiar with how to use this powerful yet intrinsic aspect of Photoshop, I strongly encourage you to spend some time reading up on and practicing using them as soon as possible.

A layer mask effectively blocks an adjustment layer (masks it) from affecting parts of the image that you don’t want it to.

Using layer masks in processing black and white images

Layer masks will help you to isolate specific areas of your image that you want to make adjustments to. Here, the subject’s hat is darkened.

In the example above, I made a Curves adjustment layer and filled the layer mask with black. Using a white brush (B) set to 100% opacity, I painted (with the layer mask clicked) over the subject’s eyes. Now, no matter what I do with the curves layer, it will only affect the area that I painted white in the layer mask.

Using this technique, you can create as many Curves adjustment layers as you want (or any other type of adjustment layer) with each one only affecting specific parts of the image.  This way, you are able to treat each element in your image with individual care.

Using layer masks in processing black and white images.

Here, you can see three separate curves layers with their own masks. Each one is doing a different job separately from the other. The first two are darkening areas of the image, while the top on is lightening the background.

Select Color Range

While you are working with your layer masks, it can sometimes feel tricky, or downright difficult, to separate specific areas of an image to work with. One technique that is useful in this situation is the Select Color Range tool (Select->Color Range). This tool works very well when trying to select skin and skies.

Select color range tool in processing black and white images.

Here, you can see what the Select Color Range tool will add to your selection when you click on the brightest part of the image and set the fuzziness slider to max.

Opening this tool will present you with a means to select a specific color range in your images that you can then apply to your layer masks. Because we are talking about processing black and white images, instead of selecting colors, you will be selecting a tonal range.

With the dialogue box open, simply click an area in your image that you want to select to work on. You can now use the slider labeled Fuzziness to adjust how much of the image within that range you wish to select. If you only want the very brightest highlights selected, click on the brightest part of your image and drag the fuzziness slider to the left. With the selection made, you can now create any adjustment layer and Photoshop will turn that selection into a layer mask.

Luminosity masks

For a far more complex option, you can use Luminosity masks.

There are a variety of ways to set these up inside Photoshop and with third-party plug-ins, so do be sure to research the various ways to go about it. Luminosity masks give you a ludicrous amount of fine control for processing your black and white images.

Luminosity masks in processing black and white images.

This is an example of what Luminosity Masks might look like when setting up in your images. I made the selection here with the ‘Light Lights’ mask. With all of these options to easily select specific tonal ranges, you should be able to see how powerful this is.

In brief, Luminosity masks grant you the ability to create layer masks for every tonal range in your image. They allow you independent control over the brightest of highlights, the darkest of shadows and everything in between. With this amount of control, you can fine-tune every part of your image to your heart’s content.

One word of warning though: leaving the Luminosity masks in your files results in very large file sizes. Consider deleting them before you save your images.

Tools for controlling tones

Now that you have a few options for selecting and isolating the various parts and tones of your images, there is a large selection of tools that you can use to manipulate the tonality (and other aspects) of your images.

Selective Color

The Selective Color adjustment layer is, probably, the easiest of these tools to get to grips with. Once you’ve created the layer, all that you have to do is find the drop-down box and choose either: whites, neutrals or blacks. (Because this article is discussing black and white images, you can discard all of the color options for now.)

Selective color in processing black and white images.

With the Selective Color tool, you have a fair degree of control over your highlights, mid-tones, and shadows. Just move the Black slider in the relevant box. This doesn’t give the amount of control that other methods do, but it’s quick and intuitive.

With any of those three options selected, find the slider labeled ‘Black’ at the bottom of the dialogue box. Dragging this slider to the right will darken the relevant tones. Dragging it to the left will lighten them. Do this with all three (whites, neutrals, blacks) for every part of your image, and you will have a great deal of control over the tonality of your images with very little effort.

As a bonus, if you’re still getting to grips with Layer Masks, the fact that the Selective Color tool adjust the highlights, mid-tones and Shadows independently within the dialogue box, means that you have a bit of local control over those three tonal ranges without having to use a layer mask at all.

Curves

The powerful Curves adjustment layer is another Photoshop staple that you should learn inside out early on.

By manipulating the curve in the dialogue box, you will gain absolute control over every minute aspect of contrast and tonal range in your image. Combine this tool with Layer Masks, and you have a solution that will get you through most situations.

Curves in processing black and white images.

Here you can see the image before I applied the Curves layer.

 

Curves in processing black and white images.

After applying the slightest of S curves, you can see just how much a difference was made to the image.

 

In terms of processing black and white images, the Curves tool will allow you to increase or reduce contrast as you see fit. Because it is a complicated tool with a lot of nuances (it will take a fair amount of time for you to get to grips with it beyond a simple S curve), do spend plenty of time practicing and reading up on how to get the most out of this tool.

Gradient Map

The Gradient Map tool is another complicated, but powerful, option for controlling the tones in your images. You can use the Gradient Map to do the actual conversion of your image to black and white, but that’s only the start. Note, that you can use the Gradient Map after you’ve done a conversion using any other method and that is what is being described here.

In the Gradient Editor (with the black and white gradient selected) you have a few options. Click on the slider at either side (the black or the white) and a mid-tone marker will appear. Dragging this left or right will adjust the position of the gradient and it will have a drastic effect on how the tones in your image appear.

Gradient map in processing black and white images.

With the black and white gradient selected in the Gradient Editor, you can see that there has already been a huge increase in contrast.

If you click anywhere in the middle of the gradient in the gradient editor, it will add another marker that you can use to set the tonal point anywhere in the gradient. This also gives you new midpoint markers between these points. Using these tools, you can control the contrast in the various parts of your images’ tonality in one fell swoop.

Gradient map in processing black and white images.

Circled in red, you can see the midpoint slider that will allow you to position the position of the gradient in terms of the tones in your image. Underlined, you can move these slider to control where the black and white point of the gradient starts. Move these inwards to increase contrast.

Combine these options with Layer Masks and you have yet another powerful tool that gives you complete control over how your final black and white images turn out.

Gradient map in processing black and white images.

By adding a third point in the gradient, you can control the exact tone that appears. It also gives you two midpoint sliders to play with.

The end

Tools for processing black and white images in Photoshop

Alongside other retouching tools, using these tools (on their own or in concert with one another) can give you a great deal of fine control over your black and white images.

With these tools, you should see that you have a lot of options when it comes to processing black and white photos after the conversion process. By taking full control of the tonality of your black and white images, you will be able to create images with plenty of impact and fine-tuned contrast. It’s important to note that the concept of local adjustments applies to a lot more than tonality and you can use them for any type of adjustment you can think of in Photoshop. For example, you can sharpen an area of fine detail (like hair) in your image for emphasis without applying that to your subject’s skin.

Do you have any other tips for processing black and white images in Photoshop? If so, please share them with us in the comments. Also, please try these methods out and share your resulting images with us in the comments section.

The post Tips for Processing Black and White Images in Photoshop appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by John McIntire.


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Canon releases white papers detailing the still and video tech inside the 1D X Mark III

14 Jan

Editor’s note: Links have been updated and are now linking to the proper white papers once again. It appears Canon changed the URLs, causing a permission error.


Canon has released a pair of white papers on its new 1D X Mark III that dive into the details of the still and video technology inside its latest flagship camera system.

The still and video white papers are 59- and 21-pages long, respectively, and cover nearly every piece of tech inside the 1D X Mark III, complete with accompanying charts, graphics, tables and more. From details on the new square pixel AF detectors and their faster readouts to the Canon Log optoelectronic transfer function used in the video, these white papers cover it all and then some.

One of many charts/illustrations in the video white paper showing the Canon Log OETF for video captured with the 1DX Mark III.

You can find the still image white paper and video white paper on Canon’s 1D X Mark III product page. They’re viewable in the browser or available to download as PDFs.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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The Art of Black and White in Lightroom and Beyond

21 Dec

The post The Art of Black and White in Lightroom and Beyond appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

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The Art of Black and White in Lightroom and Beyond Video Course comprises 25 video lessons, accompanying PDF guide and 7 DNG files so you can follow along and try out the techniques for yourselves.

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The post The Art of Black and White in Lightroom and Beyond appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.


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