The post Nikon Z9 Rumors: 45 MP, “Stunning” Autofocus, and a 2021 Release appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.
The Nikon Z9, Nikon’s not-yet-debuted flagship mirrorless camera, will offer a host of powerful features, according to the often-reliable Nikon Rumors.
While Nikon itself has previously revealed several promising Z9 specifications, including 8K video, a stacked CMOS sensor, and a new processor, the company has stopped short of providing a detailed feature set.
Enter Nikon Rumors, a website that has revealed several lists of rumored Z9 features over the last year – the most recent of which painted a relatively full picture of the camera that will soon take its place at the top of the Nikon mirrorless ladder.
First, NR revealed a “confirmed” resolution for the Z9: 45 megapixels, on par with both the Nikon D850 and the Z7/Z7 II, as well as the Canon EOS R5. This should provide plenty of pixels for cropping sports (and wildlife) photos, and will also satisfy resolution-hungry landscape photographers who require 30+ megapixels for large prints.
Previously, the Z9 was rumored to feature a 30 frames-per-second continuous shooting mode. Fresh information, however, suggests 120 frames-per-second shooting “in a lower res file size” – a speed far beyond anything Nikon (or any major camera company) has offered thus far.
But for action photographers, speed is only half the story; without top-notch autofocus, any camera will fall short, no matter its continuous shooting. Fortunately, the Nikon Z9 is poised to overtake even the D6, Nikon’s current flagship DSLR, in autofocus capabilities. According to Nikon Rumors, the Z9 packs “‘stunning’ AF tracking (better than the D6),” including “car autofocus, in addition to animal and people AF.”
Ergonomics will also be exceptional. NR promises a slew of “new menu features to tweak and match your shooting style,” along with an “improved articulated screen that even works in portrait mode.” There will be a D6-style integrated vertical grip, dual card slots, and a 5.76M-dot (or more) electronic viewfinder.
In other words: This is a no-holds-barred camera from Nikon, one that combines the latest and greatest mirrorless technology with the ruggedness and reliability of a flagship DSLR.
Of course, a top-notch camera like the Z9 will undoubtedly come with an exorbitant price tag (Nikon Rumors suggests $ 6000+ USD). But for those who can afford it, the Z9 may soon be the most powerful camera on the mirrorless market.
What about the Z9 release date?
Rumors suggest a September or October announcement (which is generally followed by product shipping within a few weeks). NR is cautious, however, noting that, “because of part shortage, the waiting time for the Z9 is expected to be very long.”
Regardless, the Z9 should be available for purchase before the end of 2021 – so if you’re in need of a best-in-class action camera, keep an eye out!
Now over to you:
What do you think of these Nikon Z9 rumors? Do you plan to buy the Z9? Are there any specific features you’d like to see? Share your thoughts in the comments below!
The post Nikon Z9 Rumors: 45 MP, “Stunning” Autofocus, and a 2021 Release appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.
The post 11 Tips for Stunning Candid Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.
Candid photography is a great way to capture intimate, honest photos – the type of images that tell real stories about their subjects.
But how can you capture beautiful candid photos? How can you create candid shots that you can be proud of?
In this article, I share 11 tips to take your candid photos to the next level. Note that these tips are not about taking sneaky, voyeuristic, or true paparazzi shots. Instead, they’ll help you add an authentic, candid feel to photos you take of loved ones, portrait subjects, images at events, and more.
Let’s get started.
1. Take your camera everywhere
The best way to take spontaneous photos? Always have a camera! That way, when the moment presents itself, you can quickly flick the On button, snag a few shots, and (if all goes well!) get a great result.
When I’m on a shoot, I’ll use my DSLR – but when I’m between shoots, I carry a point-and-shoot camera. If I see a good opportunity, I’ll whip it out and capture the scene. Of course, you don’t need to head out and buy an expensive second body – these days, smartphone cameras are very high quality and more than adequate for most candid photography.
Also, taking a camera everywhere helps people become more comfortable with you taking their photo. I find that my friends and family just expect me to have my camera out, so when I do fire it up, it’s not a signal to pose, it’s just a normal part of our interaction. And when I do take an image or two, the subjects are relaxed and the photos look natural.
2. Use a long focal length
To capture candid photography without being noticed, try shooting with a long lens – a 135mm prime, an 18-200mm zoom, or a 70-200mm zoom, for instance. As you’ve probably already guessed, the farther you are from your subject, the less likely they are to know that you’re taking pictures, and the more natural and relaxed they’ll act.
Depending on the environment, though, a long lens can be pretty noticeable, and it may actually make people feel uncomfortable (like they’re being spied on). So choose your lens widely, and if you are concerned about people’s reactions, consider picking your most compact zoom.
That way, you can get your candid shots from outside people’s personal space, you can go unnoticed, and you can maintain a feeling of intimacy in your compositions.
3. Kill the flash
Perhaps the most obvious way you can signal to another person that you’re photographing them? Using a flash (especially the flash on the top of your camera!). After all, there’s nothing like a blinding flash of light to get people’s attention and kill a moment.
So if possible, keep your flash off for candid shots. When you’re shooting in low light, instead of using flash, try boosting your ISO, opening up your aperture, or dropping your shutter speed.
You’ll get a brighter exposure, and you’ll avoid making your subject uncomfortable.
4. Take a lot of shots
Back in the film days, it was important to conserve your photos. But if you use a digital camera (and I’m guessing you do!), there’s no real need to hold back; instead, be aggressive with your shooting. Don’t be afraid to take many images of the same subject.
In fact, I’ve found that, when shooting a burst of images of a person, I can sometimes get some surprising and spontaneous shots that I’d never have captured otherwise.
So switch your camera to its continuous shooting mode (i.e., burst mode), and fire off several shots at once. You’ll significantly increase your chances of capturing an unexpectedly perfect candid image.
5. Position yourself strategically
While candid photography is all about capturing the spontaneity of a moment and getting a perfect shot during that split second of time, if you think ahead and anticipate what is about to unfold, you can increase your chances of success.
So at a wedding, get to the church early (or even go to the rehearsal) and think about what will happen during the ceremony. Where should you stand to capture each moment? Which way will people be facing? What will they be doing? What will the light be like?
If you ask these questions in advance, you won’t waste time running around and repositioning yourself when the action happens. And you’ll be in the perfect spot to capture candid moments when they do occur.
6. Photograph people doing things
Personally, I find that images of people doing things are much more interesting than images of people sitting around doing nothing. And they tend to feature more natural compositions, too.
For one, your subject will be focused on something that adds energy to a photo. It also adds context and an element of story (and these elements takes their focus off you!).
Timing is everything in candid photography, so wait until your subject is fully focused on their activity. This will inject a feeling of authenticity into your shots, where your subject is unaware and the viewer can look on unseen.
Note that your subject doesn’t need to be doing something especially involved or complex – they might be dancing, talking, playing a game, etc.
7. Photograph people with people
When you photograph more than one person at a time, something very interesting happens:
You introduce a relationship into the photo. Even if the two (or more) people aren’t really interacting, you’ll still get increased depth and a sense of story.
Of course, the ideal candid compositions will have some interaction between your subjects, as that will add emotion to the shot – but even without interaction, you can still capture some stunning images.
8. Shoot from the hip
Here’s a quick tip for shooting unnoticed, courtesy of street photographers:
Choose a relatively wide lens, such as a 35mm.
Set your camera’s shutter to its quietest setting.
Position the camera down low, either at chest height or at your hip.
And then, when your subject moves into position, fire off a burst of shots without raising the camera to your eye.
This technique can be very hit or miss, and you may want to think about zone focusing (where you prefocus your lens and use a narrow aperture for a deep depth of field). But when it works, it really works – your subject remains completely unaware of your presence, they don’t tense up or act unnatural, and you get your candid images.
9. Change your perspective
Photos taken from standing height can look fine, and sure, there are plenty of great shots taken with the camera held in that eye-level area. But if you want to mix things up and capture some truly striking photos, why not change your perspective?
For instance, get down low and shoot upward, or find a nice vantage point and shoot downward. You can climb stairs, walk over bridges, crouch on the ground – whatever you need to do to get the photo (while staying unnoticed).
Also, if you do like the low-angle shot but you feel uncomfortable crouching while doing candid photography (it is somewhat attention-grabbing, after all), try shooting from the hip (as discussed in the previous tip). While your shots may turn out crooked, it’s an interesting effect that some photographers like and can lend a sense of randomness and realness to a scene.
10. Frame images with foreground elements
If you want to create more three-dimensional, layered compositions, I highly recommend composing with your subject as the focal point – but then including an element in the foreground, such as a tree, a person’s shoulder, the frame of a doorway, etc.
Feel free to get creative. The point is to add a foreground element that can contribute context and depth to the shot, but you can have fun widening your aperture for out-of-focus foreground bokeh.
The ultimate goal is to create that sense of standing outside looking in. It’s a great complement to a candid moment, and when done well, can add a sense of mystery to the composition.
11. Take posed shots into candid territory
It may sound strange, but one of my favorite times to shoot candid images is when other photographers are taking formal ones.
Why? Well, during posed images, everyone is focused on the directing photographer, not you. So if, for instance, a wedding photographer is shooting a series of posed images, you can capture some wonderful candid moments simply by standing off to the side and taking a few images of your own.
I’d also recommend zooming in with a telephoto lens to capture more intimate scenes, and you might also try zooming right out to get shots of the subject plus the photographer.
By the way, if you’re the only photographer at an event or photoshoot, and you’re the one taking the posed shots, I’d recommend continuing to shoot after everyone thinks you’ve finished. It’s often these shots – captured moments after the posed images end – that look the best, because people relax, smile naturally, laugh, and look at each other.
Candid photography tips: final words
Hopefully, you now feel much more confident as a candid photographer, and you’re ready to start taking some beautiful candid shots of your own!
So grab your camera, remember these tips, and have fun shooting.
Now over to you:
Do you have any tips for candid photography? How do you capture those beautiful candid moments while photographing unnoticed? Share your thoughts in the comments below!
The post 11 Tips for Stunning Candid Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.
NASA has published a stunning image captured by the Hubble Space Telescope that shows a ‘three-way gravitational tug-of-war between interacting galaxies.’ The galaxies in the show are in system Arp 195, a system featured in the Atlas of Peculiar Galaxies, a list of the ‘weirder and more wonderful galaxies in the universe.’
Arp 195, otherwise known as UGC 4653, is a galaxy with material ejected from nuclei. It’s one of 15 Arp-numbered galaxies with this characteristic. All but one of these galaxies are interacting or have recently interacted with other celestial objects. The trademark tidal features of the galaxies, including Arp 195, appear to be the result of gravitational interactions.
Credit: ESA/Hubble & NASA, J. Dalcanton. Click to enlarge.
Hubble’s new sighting is in the Lynx constellation, about 747 million light-years from Earth. It’s fantastic to see new images from Hubble, as the venerable space telescope suffered significant downtime following a computer glitch earlier this summer. Hubble recently returned to service and celebrated by publishing a pair of stunning monochromatic images last month.
‘These images, from a program led by Julianne Dalcanton of the University of Washington in Seattle, demonstrate Hubble’s return to full science operations. [Left] ARP-MADORE2115-273 is a rarely observed example of a pair of interacting galaxies in the southern hemisphere. [Right] ARP-MADORE0002-503 is a large spiral galaxy with unusual, extended spiral arms. While most disk galaxies have an even number of spiral arms, this one has three.’ Text and image credit: Science: NASA, ESA, STScI, Julianne Dalcanton (UW) Image processing: Alyssa Pagan (STScI). Click to enlarge.
The hiatus aside, Hubble’s observational time is valuable. NASA writes, ‘Observing time with Hubble is extremely valuable, so astronomers don’t want to waste a second. The schedule for Hubble observations is calculated using a computer algorithm which allows the spacecraft to occasionally gather bonus snapshots of data between longer observations. This image of the clashing triplet of galaxies in Arp 195 is one such snapshot. Extra observations such as these do more than provide spectacular images – they also help to identify promising targets to follow up with using telescopes such as the upcoming NASA/ESA/CSA James Webb Space Telescope.’
Hubble offers a unique look into distant space, and it’s great to see that the telescope is working well following its concerning issue. If you’d like to see more of what Hubble is up to, you can check out an image gallery here.
The post 12 Tips to Capture Stunning Vegetable Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.
Are you interested in vegetable photography? Then you’ve come to the right place.
In this article, you’ll find plenty of tips and tricks for photographing vegetables; if you’re a food photography beginner, you’ll learn how to get started, and if you’re already a food photography enthusiast, you’ll discover easy ways to improve your results.
Now, I’m not a botanist or a chef, so I apologize in advance if my example photos contain food that’s not technically a vegetable. And in photography, the categories are more flexible. (If you think of the most famous vegetable photographs, you’ll probably think of Edward Weston’s Pepper series, and peppers are technically a fruit!)
In any case, feel free to use these techniques with raw produce in general: fruits, vegetables, legumes, mushrooms, etc.
Now that we got that out of the way, let’s get started.
1. Handpick your produce
Canon 70D | 55mm | f/4.5 | 1/250s | ISO 100
If you were taking a professional portrait, you would cast your model, right? Well, the same should be true for vegetable photography – before getting out your camera, you need to carefully pick your “hero” subject.
If you’re photographing for commercial purposes, you might want to look for the shiniest, roundest, most perfect vegetable you can find.
However, if you’re doing a personal project or a still life, you can take some liberties. You don’t need to use the best looking product; instead, aim to find produce that looks interesting. Find a vegetable that complements the props you’re using or that features a noticeable texture, etc.
No matter what individual item you end up using, the point is that you take the time to choose. You should find a market or a store that allows you to pick the produce yourself (don’t order online!). And try to get to the store early in the day so you can have first pick of the produce. Also, avoid peak hours so that you can take your time.
Consider talking to the seller. Explain what you usually look for in products. Once you make friends, they can be of great help and may even give you some insider tips on how to treat the produce.
2. Pay careful attention to composition
Canon 70D | 38mm | f/8 | 1/100s | ISO 100
The composition is the way you organize the items inside the frame. And the right composition will help the viewer navigate your picture.
There are many guidelines that can help improve vegetable photography compositions, but the most basic tip is to use the rule of thirds, which suggests that you position key elements a third of the way into the frame. And because most cameras and smartphones have a handy rule of thirds grid overlay, it’s an easy way to get started.
There are many other compositional guidelines you can follow, ranging from simple leading lines to more complex triangles and the rule of odds, so make sure you familiarize yourself with these composition tips.
3. Choose the right shutter speed, aperture, and ISO
Canon 70D | 55mm | f/8 | 1/100s | ISO 200
Your camera settings will determine both the exposure and the final look of your photos. So while getting a correct exposure is important, you also need to consider the impact that each setting will have on your shot.
Specifically, you’ll want to think about your three primary settings: shutter speed, aperture, and ISO.
A fast shutter speed is key when you have a moving element. In the case of vegetable photography, this could be a splash of water or even a hand that’s chopping the produce. Shutter speed is also helpful if you’re shooting handheld; the faster your shutter speed, the more likely you are to eliminate camera shake.
The aperture helps determine the depth of field. Smaller apertures give a deeper depth of field, while larger apertures will give you a nice background blur. Keep in mind that the focal length and the distance between the camera and the subject influence depth of field, as well.
Finally, there’s the ISO. This setting is often overlooked by beginner photographers, but a small ISO value will ensure a smooth image while a high ISO will introduce noise.
4. Change the angle of view
Canon 70D | 42mm | f/4 | 1/100s | ISO 100
The position of the camera in relation to the subject is very important – it affects the composition, the depth of field, and it helps define what you are communicating with your picture.
There are three common angles used in food photography: down from above, table level, and a 45-degree angle that mimics the way you see food when you’re sitting down to eat. So use these as your starting points (though bear in mind that they are just guidelines, so feel free to move around until you find the perfect viewpoint.)
I advise you to get your main shot the way you initially envisioned it. Then experiment with other angles. You might happen upon a great perspective that you hadn’t considered!
5. Use color to make your photos stand out
Canon 70D | 55mm | f/5.6 | 1/80s | ISO 100
Color can be a great way to improve your vegetable photography. The great thing about natural subjects such as vegetables is that they already have colors that work wonderfully together, so use these to your advantage. Find orange carrots with their green leaves or a colorful variety of chili peppers, then arrange them in striking compositions.
That said, you don’t necessarily need to use contrasting colors that make the subject pop – you can also go monochrome to create a mood or to help the viewer focus on shape and texture.
And you can always use the color wheel to discover new color palettes and color palette inspiration. Adobe has a wonderful tool called Adobe Color, and it’s available even if you don’t have a membership. It can even show you color trends and color palettes based on concepts and ideas.
6. Experiment with close-ups
Canon 70D | 55mm | f/8 | 1/50s | ISO 800
One of the things I enjoy most while shooting vegetables is getting up close and capturing wonderful textures and patterns.
If you’re shooting for commercial purposes, close-ups may be less feasible, but they’re great for personal projects. You don’t need lots of specialized gear, either; a macro lens is a big help, but you can also work with a telephoto or wide-angle lens and focus as close as possible.
Then, you can create your final result with some cropping in post-production. Keep in mind that you will be losing pixels with this process, so use the highest resolution camera that you have available.
7. Use light modifiers (and a tripod)
Canon 70D | 45mm | f/8 | 1/100s | ISO 800
You can do great vegetable photography with natural light and a handheld camera. However, adding some accessories to your setup can help you achieve better results.
Light modifiers make a big difference whether you use artificial light or natural light. Use diffusers or lightboxes to soften the light and avoid hard shadows. And reflectors can bounce back the light to fill in the shadows, while flags can help you block and direct the light. All of these can be purchased for cheap, or you can DIY them.
A tripod is important when there isn’t lots of light for handholding. Plus, it can help with your compositions and special techniques like focus stacking.
8. Think about lighting direction and contrast
Canon 70D | 55mm | f/8 | 1/3s | ISO 100
Careful use of lighting will shape your photos the way you want them. In vegetable photography, you’ll often work with natural light, though you can also use artificial light to achieve a specific mood (or when you don’t have enough natural light available).
Either way, there are two main aspects of light you need to consider: its direction and its contrast. In other words, where is the light coming from and how harsh does the light appear?
If you want dark, defined shadows, you need hard light. If you prefer even lighting with diffused shadows, you need soft light.
As far as the lighting direction, backlighting offers many creative choices. Sidelighting helps to highlight texture and add depth. Frontal lights flatten the elements, which is great for flat-lay shots.
Feel free to experiment with different setups. And make sure you study the work of other photographers to determine what you like and how it’s done.
9. Use a complementary (or non-distracting) backdrop
Canon 70D | 55mm | f/2.8 | 1/6s | ISO 100
As with any type of photography, the background is just as important as the subject. You should choose a background that complements the subject – or, at the very least, doesn’t distract from it.
You can’t go wrong with neutral, solid backgrounds. However, they can be a bit limiting for your creative vision. Wood backdrops are a nice match for vegetable photography, especially if you’re going for a rustic, just-harvested look. You can also use marbled tabletops or tiles if you want to create a kitchen feel.
The background will help you create the mood. Unfortunately, not everybody has the budget and the space to have a lot of backdrops at home, but you can always use printed sheets or digital backgrounds displayed on your TV or your computer.
10. Style before you shoot
Canon 70D | 28mm | f/8 | 1/80s | ISO 100
Styling is a big part of food photography, including vegetable photography. Even if you decide to isolate a single vegetable, that’s a styling choice, as is the decision to position it whole, chopped, peeled, etc.
If your vegetables aren’t isolated and you decide to introduce props, these will also require careful consideration. Do you want to present the food in a wicker basket or on a designer plate? Do you want to add cutlery? Do you plan to introduce a human element?
Different stylistic elements will help you to create your chosen ambiance and convey a specific message with your photos.
11. Enhance your vegetable photography with editing
If you want to really take your vegetable images to the next level, I highly recommend you do some editing.
Start by fine-tuning the composition using the Crop tool. Most programs like Photoshop or Lightroom even include some composition overlays to guide you while cropping.
You can adjust the white balance and exposure, if necessary, though I recommend you do the best you can while shooting in-camera to avoid having to fix problems in post-production.
(That said, try to shoot in RAW to maximize the amount of information you have to work with when processing.)
When editing vegetable photography, I recommend keeping it on the realistic side. Of course, you can add your own aesthetic style – by giving the file a vintage look or using warm tones to simulate the golden hour – but make sure you don’t overdo it.
One more tip: If any of your vegetables have a dent or a damaged spot that’s distracting, feel free to fix it with the Clone Stamp or Healing tools.
12. Have fun with levitation (and other special effects)
Canon 70D | 38mm | f/6.3 | 1/80s | ISO 100
If you want to spice things up in your vegetable photography, try adding some special effects.
There are different choices that you can make – for example, you can do splash photography or chiaroscuro photography – but today I’d like to talk about levitation photography.
This is really trendy right now and it looks very impressive, but it all comes down to a simple composite. I’ll give you the basic steps, and you can then make your shot as elaborate as you want.
The levitation shot
You’ll need props to hold up the vegetables and arrange them in a pleasing composition. There’s no hard rule about this as you’re going to remove the items in Photoshop later; you can use toothpicks (like I used in the example image above), or you can use threads if you want to hang the food from outside the frame.
If you’re just starting out with levitation photography, try to use a very soft light. That way, you won’t have to deal with toothpick shadows (shadows are usually the hardest part of any composite). A dark background can provide a little extra help.
Once you have all the elements where you want them, position your camera and set the exposure. Make sure you adjust your settings manually as they need to be the same in all the pictures you use for the composite.
Once you capture the first photo, take away the subject and snap a picture of the empty background (remember, the settings and focus should stay the same!). For a simple shot like the one above, you’ll only need two images, but you can always take a picture of each element to achieve a more professional result.
Editing your photo
Start by opening both images as layers in Photoshop. Make sure the image with the subject is on top. Then add a Layer Mask and grab the Brush tool. Using black, paint over the toothpicks or threads that you used to hold up the vegetables.
The mask will hide the props and reveal the empty background from the other layer, creating the levitation effect. If part of the produce is covered by a holding prop, use the Clone Stamp tool or the Healing Brush to subtly remove it.
Vegetable photography tips: final words
Well, there you have it:
12 tips to take your vegetable photos to the next level.
All that’s left to do now is practice – and have fun!
Now over to you:
Which of these tips do you plan to implement in your own vegetable photography?Do you have any vegetable photo tips? Share your thoughts (and photos!) in the comments below!
Vegetable photography FAQs
How do you make vegetables look fresh?
Photograph them while they’re still fresh! Keep them away from heat while you prepare the scene and maybe spritz some water on them before the shot.
Can you photograph fruit in the same way as vegetables?
Yes. The same tips and techniques apply for fresh fruits, herbs, tubers, mushrooms, vegetables, and other types of raw produce.
Is vegetable photography only about fresh produce?
The most common use of the term vegetable photography refers to raw produce – once it’s cooked, it’s normally classified as “food photography.” However, you might run into a client or a photographer who also includes cooked vegetables in the “vegetable photography” category.
Is vegetable photography a kind of still life photography?
Yes, normally vegetable photography refers to a still life composition using raw produce. Although you can also do lifestyle photography shoots with vegetables.
Can you use cooked ingredients for vegetable photography?
You can use a cooked dish as part of the composition. However, vegetable photography normally has raw produce as the main subject.
The post 12 Tips to Capture Stunning Vegetable Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.
The post How to Create Stunning Wide-Angle Portraits (Using an Off-Camera Flash) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ken Koskela.
Wide-angle portrait photography is unique, it’s fun, and it can make for some outstanding photos. But how can you capture great wide-angle results? What’s the secret to powerful portraits like the one below?
In this article, I’ll provide plenty of guidance, taking you through the ins and outs of wide-angle portraiture. By the time you’ve finished, you’ll be able to shoot like a pro.
Also, before starting, I’d like to let you in on a little secret:
Creating photos like these? It’s not actually that difficult. You just have to pay careful attention to your camera settings, your technique, and your lighting.
Let’s dive right in!
1. Use a (relatively) wide-angle lens
Lens choice is critically important in portraiture. Most portrait photographers reach for their 85mm or 105mm lens when heading out because these focal lengths give a nice, realistic look to the subjects.
However, I find myself drawn to portraits that have a surreal look to them and that include extra context to help tell the story. Also, wide-angle lenses require you to shoot close to your subject, which also draws your viewer into the scene.
So the first step is to leave your 85mm or 105mm lens in your camera bag and grab a wide-angle lens instead. Most of the portraits you see here were created at 24mm on a full-frame camera (use a 16mm for the same view if your camera has a cropped sensor). For me, this focal length is the perfect blend of reality and distortion.
In fact, if you go wider than 24mm, elements closer to the lens, such as arms and hands, look big or elongated. Also, wider focal lengths require a much bigger background, which isn’t always desirable or convenient.
2. Choose a compelling subject
In wide-angle portrait photography, your subject is paramount. The Indonesian dockworker above was an amazing subject; I spent 20 minutes photographing the guy and had a difficult time choosing the best image.
On the other hand, you could spend all day photographing me on the same dock, in front of the same ships, and have nothing but terrible images at the end of the day.
The point? Make sure your subject is genuinely interesting.
I look for people who have experienced life. The ideal subject has some sort of interesting quality, something that makes them stand out from the rest, though my subjects do have an everyday person quality about them. Finding subjects can be challenging, especially if you live in the suburbs (like I do). I am a travel photographer and usually find my subjects in rural areas overseas, but there are great subjects everywhere – you just need to look!
Clothing is critically important. If your 90-year old rural villager is wearing a hat that says, “I Love New York,” then you will probably want to politely ask them to take it off, or at least turn it around for the picture. Don’t let out-of-context clothing ruin or weaken your shot!
3. Choose a complementary background
Your image is only as strong as its weakest part – which is often the background. This is because, as photographer Jim Zuckerman puts it, “The world is a compositional mess.” So unless you deliberately choose a beautiful background, you’re going to be stuck with, well, a mess.
There are two important qualities you want to focus on:
First, at the very least, your background must be non-distracting. Before snapping a wide-angle portrait, carefully scan the scene and make sure nothing draws the eye. Beginners, and even intermediate photographers, can overlook obvious distractions in the background, such as trees that look like they are growing out of the subject’s head, patchy spots of bright light, colorful objects, straight lines, and geometric shapes. You don’t want anything that competes with your subject for attention, so make sure to simplify your composition until you get what you’re after.
The background in the image below isn’t at all distracting; the man is standing in front of a shipping container, which won’t win any awards for beauty, but gets the job done. Plus, it’s a good picture because of the strength of the subject.
Second, whenever possible, include a background that complements your subject by providing context. I’ve shot many images with simple, non-distracting backgrounds. But my favorite pictures include a background that tells a story about the subject.
It’s the reason I love shooting in places like rural China and Indonesia. The countries have many ancient villages that provide opportunities for amazing backgrounds, like the path in the photo below:
A quick piece of advice: I like to keep all evidence of modernity out of the background. I don’t like plastic stuff in my pictures, and I don’t include modern-looking buildings or cars. Instead, I prefer rural areas with weather-beaten buildings. If you’re like me, and you want to create more rustic, pure wide-angle portraits, then I’d recommend you do the same.
4. Shoot in the right lighting conditions
Great wide-angle portrait photography requires great light.
Try shooting either early or late in the day (when the sun is low in the sky) or in overcast conditions. I actually prefer a soft, overcast day (though I still shoot relatively early or late).
5. Put your subjects at ease
I don’t hire models, so some subjects work well and others less well. What you want to avoid is a picture of your subject standing flat-footed, straight up and down, and holding a fake smile.
For that reason, it’s a good idea to start your session by gaining their interest and confidence. If you have some images you’ve shot and processed, show them to your subject to give them an idea of what you are looking for (and hopefully pique their interest).
Plus, showing past photos will help communicate immediately that you are not looking for your subject to just stand and smile. It should also show that your posing expectations are basic.
6. Work the scene for the best compositions
Once you’ve found the perfect subject, don’t just take one photo and pack up. Instead, take quite a few (assuming your subject has the patience). And as you take your shots, make sure to work the scene.
I like to get quite close to my subjects. For me, the eyes are a critically important part of the picture and must be very sharp. I focus on the closest eye, though I re-focus frequently as I move around the subject.
I generally ask the subject to look directly at the camera and not to smile, although not always. I then start moving slightly left or right. I ask them to keep their head still and just follow the camera with their eyes. I usually shoot from slightly below eye level, and I have them stand or sit at an angle to the camera. If the subject is standing, I ask them to put their weight on the back foot.
I like to include the subject’s hands in my compositions. With a wide-angle lens, hands in the foreground will look large, so try to strike a balance (make sure the hands are prominent but not too large). Simply position the hands closer to or farther away from the lens.
7. Make sure you have the right equipment and settings
For the best results, you’ll need a camera, a lens, and a single off-camera flash. Your camera should be equipped with an internal or external flash trigger to control your off-camera flash.
Here is how I set things up:
Start by leaving your flash or trigger initially turned off.
Set your camera to Manual mode.
If the session is outdoors, dial in some basic settings – I usually aim for an aperture of f/7.1, a shutter speed of around 1/160s, and an ISO of 100. You can adjust your f-stop and shutter speed, but keep in mind that you cannot shoot faster than your camera’s maximum flash sync speed.
Make the necessary adjustments to slightly underexpose the background by 1/3 to 2/3 stops. I usually start by adjusting shutter speed, but go no slower than 1/60s and no faster than 1/160s. If necessary, adjust the aperture to f/5.6 (at the absolute widest). Then, and only then, should you start bumping up the ISO.
If you are indoors, begin with a higher ISO as a first step, and then make your adjustments to shutter speed and f-stop in the same manner.
8. Carefully position your flash for the best results
For 90% of my portraits, I use a single off-camera flash diffused with an umbrella or softbox. I recommend you do the same (while natural light can work, it generally won’t be as sculpted or as dramatic).
The most important rule with flash is “Don’t ruin your shot,” which is usually done by putting too much flash on your subject. Instead, you want to get a decent balance of natural and artificial light, so that the flash is undetectable to the untrained eye but lights your subject brighter than the underexposed background.
Now, turn on your flash and trigger. Here are some starting points:
Set your flash to Manual mode.
I typically position the flash at a 45-degree angle to the subject, about 2-3 feet (slightly less than a meter) away, higher than their head, angled downward.
I usually start with 1/16 flash power when outdoors. Then I adjust from there until the subject stands out from the background but does not look like they’ve been blasted with flash.
Wide-angle portrait photography: conclusion
As you hopefully gathered from this article, capturing wide-angle portraits isn’t hard, and it can look incredible.
So grab your camera, your lens, and your flash, and get out shooting. Remember the tips from this article. And have fun!
Now over to you:
Do you have any tips or tricks for wide-angle portrait photography? What are your favorite lighting setups? Share your thoughts in the comments below!
Table of contents
Portrait Photography
GENERAL
15 Common Portrait Mistakes to Avoid
10 Ways to Direct a Portrait Shoot like a Pro
How to Photograph People: 7 Tips for Photographers Who Never Photograph People
10 Crucial Things You Need to Think About for Portrait Photography
5 Portrait Photography Rules You Should Probably Ignore
Five Budget Portrait Photography Hacks to Save You Money
8 Lessons Learned from My First Attempt at Portrait Photography
How Self-Portraiture Makes You a Better Photographer
The Photo Critique: Portrait Edition
10 Shots, 10 Portraits, 1 Focal Length: Take this Photography Challenge
How I Got The Shot: Portrait Style
PREPARATION
Tips for Preparing for a Portrait Session
8 Tips to Help Make People Comfortable for Their Portrait Session
Clothing for Portraits – How to Tell your Subjects What to Wear
How to Plan a Successful Sunset Portrait Session
5 Secrets for Finding Great Indoor Photoshoot Locations
10 Christmas Portrait Locations (with Bonus Lighting and Composition Tips)
How to Build a Bench Prop for Great Portrait Photos
A Beginners Guide to Taking Portraits of Elderly Clients: Part 1 – Preparation and Rapport
How to Scout for Portrait Shooting Locations
The Importance of Location for Outdoor Portraits
How to Choose Urban Landscapes for Portrait Photography
SETTINGS
The Best Camera Settings for Portrait Photography
How to Achieve Blurred Backgrounds in Portrait Photography
How to Bypass the Portrait Mode on Your Digital Camera and Get Great Portraits
Understanding the Focus and Recompose Technique
Overcoming Depth of Field Problems in Portraits
9 Ways to Ensure You Get Sharp Images When Photographing People
Stunning Portraits: Manipulating White Balance
Shooting for HDR Portraiture
How [Not] to Take a Self Timer Portrait
How Focal Length Changes the Shape of the Face in Portraiture
LIGHTING
5 Tips How to Set Up a Home Studio for Dramatic Portraits
Simple Portrait Setups You Can Create on a Tight Budget
How to Eliminate Reflections in Glasses in Portraits
Portrait Photography: How to Photograph People in the Harsh Midday Sun
4 Ways to Shoot Portraits in the Middle of the Day
6 Portrait Lighting Patterns Every Photographer Should Know
3 Lighting Setups for Photographing Headshots
6 Ways of Using Reflector to Take Better Portraits
How to Create and Shoot Night Portraits
How to Make Beautiful Portraits Using Flash and High-Speed Sync
How to Make a Low Key Portrait (Step by Step)
Fill Flash Photography: How to Get Beautiful Portraits (Even in Bad Light)
A Lighting Ratios Guide: How to Make (or Break) Your Portraits
How to Mix Ambient Light and Fill-Flash for Outdoor Portraits
How to Photograph Fantastic Portraits with One Flash
DIY How to Build and Use a Reflector to Take Better Portraits
Understanding Light for Better Portrait Photography
Tips for Doing Natural Light Headshots and Portraits
3 Reasons to do Headshots with Natural Light
A Beginners Guide to Taking Portraits of Elderly Clients: Part 2 – Lighting and Posing
How to Create Stunning Wide-Angle Portraits (Using an Off-Camera Flash)
1. Use a (relatively) wide-angle lens
2. Choose a compelling subject
3. Choose a complementary background
4. Shoot in the right lighting conditions
5. Put your subjects at ease
6. Work the scene for the best compositions
7. Make sure you have the right equipment and settings
8. Carefully position your flash for the best results
Wide-angle portrait photography: conclusion
1. Use a (relatively) wide-angle lens
2. Choose a compelling subject
3. Choose a complementary background
4. Shoot in the right lighting conditions
5. Put your subjects at ease
6. Work the scene for the best compositions
7. Make sure you have the right equipment and settings
8. Carefully position your flash for the best results
Wide-angle portrait photography: conclusion
Tips for Making the Most of Morning Light for Portraits
5 Ways to Use a Beauty Dish Light for Portraits
Beginners Tips for Sunrise Portraits : Part I
Getting to Grips with Fill Light in Portrait Photography
How to Use Flash for Night Portraits
What Size Beauty Dish is Right For Your Portrait Photography?
How to Create Catch Lights in Your Natural Light Portraits
Tips for Using Golden Hour Light for Portraits
Side-by-side comparison between reflectors and diffusers for portraits
6 Tips for Taking Better Natural Light Classic Portraits
How to Use a Small Softbox With Your Flash to Transform Your Portraits
Simple Tips for Positioning Your Portrait Subject to Leverage Natural Light
The Importance of Shadows in Portrait Photography
So You Have No Model? Here are Ways to Practice Your Portrait Lighting With Toys
How to use Colored Gels to Create Unique and Creative Portraits
3 Steps to Professional Looking Headshots Using One Flash
How to Use Two LED Lights to Achieve Moody Portraits
Made in the Shade – Why Taking Portraits in the Shade Can be Ideal
What Is Good Light? (And How to Use It for Beautiful Portraits)
How to do Accent Lighting for Portraits
Tips For Great Indoor Portraits Using Natural Light
5 Reasons for Doing Natural Light Portraits
Review of the Westcott Eyelighter for Headshots and Portraits
How to Use Angle of Light in People Photography for Added Punch
High Speed Sync Versus a Neutral Density Filter to Overcome Bright Sunlight in Portraits
5 Creative Portrait Lighting Tricks Using Only Phone Light
How to Use Off-camera Flash to Fix Lighting Problems for Outdoor Portraits
How to Create Awesome Portrait Lighting with a Paper Bag an Elastic Band and a Chocolate Donut
Tips for Using Speedlights to Create the Right Lighting for Outdoor Portraits
How to use a Gobo to add Depth to Your Portraits with Subtractive Lighting
How to Use Hard Lighting to Create a Dramatic Portrait
Portrait Comparison – Flash Versus Natural Light
Stealing Light – Using Street Lights for Portraits
Five Places for Perfect Natural Portrait Lighting
How to See the Light for Portraits: A Quick Tip for Beginners
Shooting with Available Light – Lifestyle Portraiture
5 Ways to Light Your Christmas Tree Portraits This Festive Season
A Simple Lighting Technique for Couples Portraits
Awash In Light: High Key Portraiture
A Portrait Lighting Project for a Rainy Day
Simple Portrait Lighting Setup: Gorgeous Result
How to Achieve Great Portraits with Window Light
A Simple Exercise on Working with Natural Light in Portraits
Small Flash Portraits on Location with Adorama TV
Portraits on an Overcast Day? Use a Reflector
Tips for Using Flash for Beach Portraits
How to Find and Use Natural Reflectors for Portraits
How to Create Dramatic Portraits with Shadow Photography
Tips for Portrait Photography in Overcast Weather
How to Photograph People Outdoors Without Using a Reflector
How To Use an Outdoor Studio for Natural Portraits
POSING
Female Poses: 21 Posing Ideas to Get You Started Photographing Women
Glamour Posing Guide: 21 Sample Poses to Get You Started
Posing Guide: 21 Sample Poses to Get You Started with Photographing Men
Good Crop Bad Crop – How to Crop Portraits
How to Pose and Angle the Body for Better Portraits
Posing Guide: 21 Sample Poses to Get You Started with Photographing Groups of People
Posing Guide: 21 Sample Poses to Get You Started with Photographing Couples
Your Guide to the Best Poses for Engagement Photos
How to do Gentle Posing: A Collection of Prompts to Get You Started
Tips for Posing Large Families and Groups
How to Pose People for Headshots
Tips for Posing People in Outdoor Portraits
20 Tips for Getting People to Smile in Photos
How to Avoid Fake Smiles in Your People Photography
Tips for Posing Muscular Female Body Types
Your Posing Guide for Maternity Sessions
Handiwork: How to Pose Hands
Your Guide to Posing Bands in Photography
Posing Tip for Portraits – Which Way Should Your Subject Lean?
Posing Tips – Waistlines, Thighs and Bustlines
3 Posing Tips for Young Siblings
What Everybody Ought to Know About Posing for Portraits
Poser: Achieve Perfect Portrait Expression
Capturing Better Portraits Between Poses
A Posing Technique from A Girl With a Pearl Earring
Tips for Posing Men
COMPOSITION
6 Types of Portrait Backgrounds for Creative Images
6 Tips for Perfect Composition in Portrait Photography
How to Find Great Backgrounds for Outdoor Portraits
How to Make Colors Pop in Your Portraits – Without Using Photoshop
How to Use Foreground Framing to Improve Your Portrait Photography
How to Use Negative Space in People Photography
3 Simple Ways to Use Framing and Layering in Portraits
Is Portrait Formatting always best for Portraits?
Portrait Tip: Don't Fill the Frame
How to Use Portrait Angles More Creatively: A Visual Guide
How to Use Facial View and Camera Angle to take Flattering Portraits
GEAR
Comparing a 50mm Versus 85mm Lens for Photographing People
Comparing a 24mm Versus 50mm Lens for Photographing People
3 Tips for Taking Portraits with a Kit Lens
Best Fujifilm X-Series Kit for Urban Portraits
3 Ways to Get Killer Portraits Using a Tripod
Photographing Portraits with Classic Lenses (includes Example Images)
Portrait Photographers: Do You Really Need a 70-200mm Lens?
Essential Portrait Photography Gear You Need When Starting Out
Portable Portrait Studio in a Bag: Now You Can Take Portraits While on the Road
How to Choose the Perfect Portrait Lens
Which 50mm Lens is Best for Portraits?
ADVANCED GUIDES
13 Tips for Improving Outdoor Portraits
Create Beautiful Indoor Portraits Without Flash (NSFW)
10 Tips for Photographing Great Headshots
3 Simple Ways to Create Stunning Eyes in Your Portrait Photography
11 Tips for Photographing High School Senior Portraits
Tips for Doing Fall Portraits
6 Tips for Photographing Large People
7 Tips for Black and White Portrait Photography
How to Create Environmental Portraits (Tips and Examples)
Capturing Unenthusiastic Teens: Forget the Perfect Pose and Get Photos You Truly Love
Tips for Taking the Torture out of Extended Family Portrait Sessions
Self Portrait Photography Tips
What the Mona Lisa Can Teach You About Taking Great Portraits
5 Tips for Musician Portraits (So You Can Hit All the Right Notes)
5 Tips to Help You Take More Natural Looking Portraits
15 Tips for More Powerful Portraits
How to Create Dramatic Portraits in Your Garage
9 Tips that Make Couples Happy During a Portrait Session
5 Tips for Taking Better Portraits in Nature
Snow Portrait: Behind the Scenes
Tips for Creating Dance Portraits
How to Take Better Beach Portraits at Any Time of Day
The Introverts Guide to Photographing People
6 Ways to Take a Candid Portrait of Somebody You Know
3 Body Language Hacks to Improve Your Portrait Photography
5 More Tips for Making Better Black and White Portraits
Tips for Planning and Capturing a Creative Portrait
5 Tips for Creating Romantic Portraits of Couples
10 Tips to Create Emotive Portraits
7 Tips for Photographing a Bridal Portrait Session
3 Lessons I Learned by Doing a Self-Portrait Project
The Ultimate Guide to Photographing People for the Shy Photographer
Tips for Getting Yourself to Relax as a Photographer and Have More Successful Portrait Sessions
Tips for Taking More Natural Engagement Portraits
6 Tips for Better Portraits on Location
7 Ways to Take Advantage of Autumn in Your Portrait Photography
7 Tips and Etiquette for Taking Portraits in Public
How to Make a Unique Portrait in the City at Night
3 Tips for Creating Outstanding Portraits, Inspired by the work of Dutch Artist Van Gogh
5 Keys to Taking Beautiful Maternity Portraits
Photographing People: To do Styled Portraits or Not?
7 Steps to Capturing Truth in Your Portraiture
Engagement Portrait Shoots: 7 Professional Tips to take your Engagement Shoots to the Next Level
Personalities and Portraits – and Getting Them to Mix
3 Reasons to Have Your Own Portrait Taken
5 Tips for Photographing Portfolio-Worthy Costume Portraits
3 Critical People Skills Portrait Photographers Need
The Essence of Masculinity – Portraits of Men
5 Corporate-Style Portrait Techniques
5 Tips for Doing Portrait Photography in Busy Locations
Tips for Great Beach Sunset Portraits
CREATIVE TECHNIQUES
How to Create Portraits with a Black Background
How Using Props in Portraits Can Make Your Photos More Interesting
How to Take Unique Crystal Ball Portraits
How to Create a Hollywood Film Noir Portrait
How to Create this “Fight Club” Inspired Portrait using One Light
Dragging the Shutter for Creative Portraits
5 Secrets for Creating Perfect Silhouette Portrait Photography
How to do Tilt-Shift Portraits
Copper, Prisms, and Orbs, Oh My! – 3 Creative Techniques for People Photography
Portrait Tip: Add Interest and Movement into Your Shots with Wind
Glitter Portrait: How I Took It
How to Create a Unique Bokeh Portrait for Under $ 10
5 Ways to Use a Piece of Glass for Unique Portraits
Room with a View: How to Create this Window with Blinds Portrait Anywhere
7 Steps to Perfect White Portrait Backgrounds in the Studio
How to Make Unique Portraits Using Light Painting
POST-PROCESSING
11 Steps for Basic Portrait Editing in Lightroom – A Beginner’s Guide
Five Common Portrait Retouching Mistakes to Avoid
How to Create a Dramatic Cinematic Style Portrait Using Photoshop Color Grading
How to Edit Corporate Headshots in Lightroom
How to Create a Dark and Moody Rembrandt-Style Portrait In Lightroom
How to Retouch a Portrait with the Adjustment Brush in Lightroom
Photoshop: Red Eye Fix for Difficult Cases in People and Pets
3 Steps to Photoshop Retouching for Natural Looking Portraits
How to do Frequency Separation Portrait Retouching in Photoshop
Basic Portrait Post-Processing Workflow Tips to Help You Save Time and Stay Organized
How to Add a Grunge Effect to Your Portraits Using Lightroom
How to Create Twinkle Lights for Christmas Tree Portraits in Photoshop
How to Enhance Portraits Using Gray Layers to Dodge and Burn in Photoshop
How to Blur the Background of a Portrait Using the Magnetic Lasso Tool in Photoshop
How to Use Photoshop Blending Modes for Fine Art Portraiture
Stylized Techniques for Editing Portraits Using Lightroom
How to Make a Bubble Portrait using Photoshop CS3
Creating a Black and White High Contrast Portrait Edit in Lightroom
How to Create a “Soft Portrait” Preset in Lightroom 4
Basic Photoshop Tutorial – How to Add Creative Overlays to Your Portraits
3 Essential Photoshop Tools for New Portrait Photographers
How to Make Creative Lightroom Develop Presets for Portraits
5 Reasons to Use Lightroom for Portrait Retouching
Advanced Portrait Retouch on a Male Subject in Lightroom 4 – Part 1 of 3
3 Ways to Make Selective Color Portraits Using Lightroom and Silver Efex Pro 2
Correcting For Under Exposure and Boosting Dynamic Range with an Environmental Portrait in Lightroom 4
How to do Portrait Retouching With Luminar
Tips for Portrait Processing with ON1 Photo RAW 2018.5
5 Tips to Cut Your Portrait Editing Time in Half
BUSINESS
Portrait Consultations: Two Questions That Make A Big Difference
How to Shoot a Self Portrait to Support your Brand Identity
INSPIRATION
5 Examples of Beautiful Simple Portraits
DISCUSS: When you Photograph People in Black and White, you Photograph their Souls
21 Inspirational Natural Light Portraits
24 Photos of Perfectly Posed Portraits
19 More Creative Mirror Self Portraits
18 Stunning Self Portraits
Interview with Fine Art Portrait Photographer Bill Gekas
11 Influential Portrait Photographers you Need to Know
Black and White Portraits a Set of Images to Admire
Nadav Kander on Portrait Photography [VIDEO]
21 Spooky Portraits
Inspiring Portraits of Women – a Collection of Images
12.5 Years of Daily Self Portraits [VIDEO]
Interview with Self Portrait and 365 Photographer – Anna Gay
Triptych Portrait Series
8 Striking Portraits from Photograph Einar Erici [Shot in 1930]
An Interview With Underwater Portrait Photographer Sacha Blue
Masters of Photography – Yousuf Karsh Portrait Photographer
21 Fun Images of People Laughing
RESOURCES
Portrait Photography: Secrets of Posing & Lighting [Book Review]
The Luminous Portrait: Book Review
The Portrait Photography Course by Mark Jenkinson – Book Review
The Perfect Portrait Guide – How to Photograph People – Book Review
Improve Your Portraits with these Courses from Ed Verosky
People Photography and Portraits: Best Resources Toolbox
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The post How to Create Stunning Wide-Angle Portraits (Using an Off-Camera Flash) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ken Koskela.
The post See the Stunning Nature TTL Photographer of the Year Winners appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.
The Nature TTL Photographer of the Year 2021 winners have been announced, featuring a mix of wildlife, landscape, and macro photos – all of them breathtaking.
More than 8000 images fought for the £1500 grand prize. In the end, it was Thomas Vijayan’s gripping photo, entitled “The World Is Going Upside Down,” that won the judges’ hearts and secured Vijayan the Nature TTL Photographer of the Year title:
Vijayan explained, “After spending a few days in Borneo, I got this frame stuck in my mind. To get this shot, I selected a tree that was in the water, so that I could get a good reflection of the sky and its leaves on the tree. The water formed a mirror, making the image look upside-down. Then I climbed up on the tree and waited for hours. This is a regular path for the orangutans to use, so patience would surely pay off.”
Vijayan’s image stands out thanks to its surreal composition, astonishing perspective, and intense intimacy. And it is in good company: in addition to the grand prize, judges awarded prizes in nine different categories to an astounding group of images, some of which are displayed below.
If you love nature photography or you’re after some powerful nature photography inspiration, then I recommend you check out the winning photos below. And to see additional winning images or to learn more about the Nature TTL Photographer of the Year competition, head over to the Nature TTL website.
Sony first announced its official entry into the drone sector early this year at the Consumer Electronics Show (CES). Though there still aren’t solid details on a release date or pricing for its Airpeak drone, the company recently unveiled some stunning wide-angle footage captured over Okinawa, Japan’s, remote island called Irimote. Besides the scenery, the video also showcases the Airpeak drone in action carrying both Sony’s a7S III and FX3 cameras.
What’s revealed, as well, is how the drone is able to carry a payload that includes their new 14mm F1.8 GM lens. Although rather large in size for a drone, Sony claims that the Airpeak is the smallest model available that is able to carry its Alpha line of cameras. For comparison’s sake, Freefly Systems has been working on its Astro drone, which is compatible with Sony’s a7R IV camera, but hasn’t been released yet.
One issue pointed out about the Airpeak is that it is a quadcopter. For comparison’s sake, DJI’s Matrice 600 is a hexacopter. If one rotor fails on the Matrice 600, the drone will still remain airborne. That’s not the case with a quadcopter, and Sony camera’s aren’t exactly cheap. We can also see from the latest video that two batteries are needed to power the drone. This is a typical failsafe, also found in DJI’s Inspire 2, should one battery fail during flight.
Much like a drone of its class, the Airpeak also has an additional front-facing pilot’s camera as well as obstacle avoidance sensors on the front and back of the aircraft. There aren’t any sideways sensors but unlike a DJI Phantom or Mavic series drone, which is constrained by a 3-axis gimbal that only tilts up and down, the AirPeak doesn’t need those additional sensors since it only needs to fly forwards or backwards since the camera can also rotate from side to side.
It also looks as though Sony hasn’t created a gimbal for the Airpeak yet. Instead, the Gremsy T3V3 3-axis camera stabilizer is attached. It is unclear whether or not Sony will develop their own gimbal. The remote is clearly made by Sony, since the branding is there, and a tablet is attached – suggesting, for now, that a built-in screen won’t be available.
The software being used to power the drone is built on Mapbox, which also powers self-driving cars. What this means is that Airpeak users will be able to pre-plan flights.
This isn’t the first teaser video Sony has released for its Airpeak drone. Sony also introduced a VISION-S concept car at CES. The Airpeak was featured in the video, above, where you can see its landing gear extensions retract upward, after takeoff, to give a fuller field of view for the camera. Wind resistance is another pain point for drone users. Sony recently created a wind tunnel to illustrate how well the Airpeak handles gusts up to 45 mph.
As mentioned above, a definitive release date and price point has yet to be announced. Sony is still looking for professional drone videographers and photographers, its target audience, to test out the Airpeak. You must be located in the United States or Japan to participate at this time.
Following thousands of earthquakes beginning in February, the Fagradalsfjall volcano on Iceland’s Reykjanes Peninsula erupted on March 19. Since then, the volcano has been erupting with new fissure vents opening, including a new one over this past weekend. Given the volcano’s accessible location, thousands of people have visited the site and seen the eruption for themselves. Photographer and wildlife conservationist Donal Boyd and director and filmmaker Frank Nieuwenhuis created a short human interest film, ‘Volcano for the People,’ about the incredible natural event and the experience of enjoying it with others.
Nature is often enjoyed in solitude or in small groups. However, the ongoing volcanic eruption in Iceland is attracting hundreds to thousands of people at a time. Enjoying nature has transformed from something enjoyed independently to something enjoyed as a collective experience. The video below touches on that shift and what it means to the people enjoying the spectacle. The video includes breathtaking visuals, including stunning drone shots.
Boyd and Nieuwenhuis also created a behind-the-scenes video, showing how they were able to make the short film above. The duo spent just under a week planning, shooting and editing their video. Isn’t it dangerous to visit an active volcano? The eruption event on the Reykjanes Peninsula is unique. As Iceland was hit with thousands of earthquakes, scientists could track the magma flowing underground until it finally broke through the surface. The eruption occurred in a valley, so there are many safe viewing areas surrounding it. So long as the wind is at your back, blowing away toxic gases from the eruption, it’s safe. The Icelandic Meteorological Office, Icelandic Search and Rescue, and on-site advisors have regularly updated safety protocols so that risks to visitors are minimized. It’s an ever-changing situation, of course, so what was safe during the making of Boyd and Niewenhuis’s video may no longer be safe.
Although the volcano site was accessible, the hike to and from the area was still 2-3 hours. This meant that Boyd and Nieuwenhuis wanted to keep their gear as light as possible, although it’s easier said than done. Since they wanted to record not only the eruption itself but also the people at the site, their bags were essentially packed to the brim. Interview sequences were shot on Sony A7R III, Sony A7R IV and Canon EOS R5 mirrorless cameras with a Sigma 24mm F1.4 Art lens. Distant shots of spectators were captured with a Sigma 135mm F1.8 Art lens or a Sony FE 135mm F1.8 G Master lens. Other lenses used during production included the Canon RF 50mm F1.2 and an older Canon 300mm F2.8 lens for extreme close-ups. Aerial shots were captured using a DJI Mavic Air 2. At times, the lava was so bright that Boyd needed to attach his strongest ND filter to the Mavic Air 2.
Alongside the pair of videos above for Adorama TV, Donal Boyd also wrote an article for Adorama about how to photograph an active volcano. The article includes some background about the volcano, tips on gear and, importantly, safety advice and where to get the latest viewing conditions. In addition to a lot of useful information, Boyd’s article also includes amazing images, so be sure to check it out.
If you’d like to see more from Boyd, follow him on Instagram. More of Niewenhuis’s work can be seen on Instagram and YouTube.
The post 11 Surefire Landscape Photography Tips (+ Stunning Examples) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.
Want tips for stunning landscape photography? You’ve come to the right place.
In this article, I’m going to share 11 easy landscape photography tips – which are guaranteed to get you taking beautiful images, no matter your experience level. I’ve also included plenty of example photos, so you can see the tips in action (and know that they really do work!).
Let’s get started.
1. Maximize your depth of field
In landscape photography, a deep depth of field is almost always the way to go.
In other words:
You want as much of your scene in focus as possible. The simplest way to do this is to choose a small aperture setting (i.e., a large f-number, such as f/11 or f/16). Because the smaller your aperture, the greater the depth of field in your shots.
Do keep in mind that smaller apertures mean less light is hitting your image sensor. So you’ll need to compensate for the narrow aperture either by increasing your ISO or lengthening your shutter speed (or both).
PS: Of course, there are times when you can get some great results with a very shallow depth of field in a landscape setting. It’s just a tricky technique that requires a lot of finesse.
2. Use a tripod
To maximize your depth of field, you’ll be using a small aperture – and you’ll also likely shoot with a long shutter speed.
But unless you’re careful, you’ll end up with an unusably blurry image.
That’s where a tripod comes in handy. You can use it to stabilize your camera and keep your photos tack sharp for 1-second, 5-second, and even 30-second long exposures.
In fact, even if you can shoot at a fast shutter speed, a tripod can still be beneficial. It’ll force you to slow down and consider your composition more carefully.
Also, to prevent camera shake from pressing the shutter button, consider a remote shutter release.
3. Look for a focal point
Pretty much every shot needs some sort of focal point, and landscape photography is no different.
In fact, a landscape photograph without a focal point ends up looking rather empty. And it’ll leave your viewer’s eye wandering through the image with nowhere to rest.
Focal points can take many forms in landscape photos. They can range from a building or a structure (such as in the photo above) to an eye-catching tree, a boulder or rock formation, a silhouette, or something else entirely.
Also, think not only about what the focal point is, but where you should position it within the frame. The rule of thirds can be useful here.
4. Think foregrounds
Here’s one key tip that can make your landscape shots stand out:
Think carefully about the foreground of your composition…
…and include clear points of interest.
When you do this, you give those viewing the shot a path into the image. And you create a sense of depth, which is always a nice bonus.
5. Consider the sky
In landscape photography, you should always think about the sky.
Most landscapes will either have a dominant foreground or a dominant sky. And unless you include one or the other, your shot will end up looking boring.
Start by observing the sky. If it’s bland and lifeless, don’t let it dominate your shot; place the horizon in the upper third of the image (though you’ll want to make sure your foreground is interesting).
But if the sky is filled with drama, interesting cloud formations, or colors, then let it shine! Place the horizon in the bottom third of the frame to emphasize the heavens.
(Also, consider enhancing skies, either in post-production or with filters. For example, you can use a polarizing filter to add color and contrast.)
6. Use lines to lead the eye
One of the questions you should always ask yourself as you do landscape photography is:
“How am I leading the eye of those viewing this composition?”
There are a number of ways to lead the eye (and including a clear foreground subject works well). But one of my favorite ways is to provide viewers with lines that lead them into the image (such as the road in the photo above).
Lines give an image depth and scale. Plus, they can offer a point of interest by creating patterns in your shot.
7. Capture movement
When most people think about landscapes, they think of calm, serene, and passive environments. However, landscapes are rarely completely still – and if you can convey this movement, you’ll add drama and mood to your image. You’ll also create a point of interest.
But how can you convey movement in a landscape?
You can focus on wind in the trees, waves on a beach, water flowing over a waterfall, birds flying overhead, moving clouds, etc. Capturing this movement generally requires a longer shutter speed (sometimes a shutter speed of many seconds!).
Of course, a slow shutter speed means more light hitting your sensor, so you’ll either need a narrow aperture or an ND filter. You might also choose to shoot at the start or the end of the day when there is less light.
8. Work with the weather
A scene can change dramatically depending upon the weather, so choosing the right time to shoot is of major importance.
Many beginner photographers see a sunny day and think that it’s the best time to go out with their camera. However, an overcast day that is threatening rain might present you with a much better opportunity – you can create an image with real mood and ominous undertones.
Look for storms, wind, mist, dramatic clouds, sun shining through dark skies, rainbows, sunsets and sunrises, etc. And work with these variations in the weather rather than just waiting for the next sunny, blue sky.
9. Photograph during the golden hours
I chatted with a landscape photographer recently who told me that he never shoots during the day. His only shooting times are around dawn and dusk because that’s when the light is best, and that’s when the landscape comes alive.
These golden hours, as they’re often called, offer great landscape photography for a number of reasons.
For one, you get gorgeous golden light. I also love the angle of the low sun; it creates interesting patterns, dimensions, and textures, all of which can enhance a landscape photo.
10. Think about horizons
This is an old tip but a good one. Before you take a landscape shot, always consider the horizon on two fronts:
Is it straight? While you can always straighten images later in post-production, it’s easier if you get it right in-camera.
Where is the horizon positioned in the frame? A natural spot for the horizon is along one of the rule of thirds gridlines rather than in the middle of the frame. Of course, rules are meant to be broken – but I find that, unless you’re photographing a very striking scene, the rule of thirds usually works here.
11. Change your point of view
You drive up to the scenic lookout, get out of the car, grab your camera, turn it on, walk up to the barrier, raise the camera to your eye, rotate left and right a little, zoom a little, then take your shot – before getting back in the car and driving to the next scenic lookout.
We’ve all done it. However, this process doesn’t generally lead to the “wow” shot that many of us are looking for.
Instead, take a little more time with your landscape photos. Find a more interesting point of view.
You might start by finding a different spot to shoot from than the scenic lookout.
You can also look for new angles; this could mean getting down onto the ground to shoot from below, or heading up high to gain a nice vantage point.
Explore the environment and experiment with different viewpoints. You might find something truly unique!
Landscape photography tips: conclusion
Now that you’ve finished this article, you’re ready to capture some stunning landscape photography!
So grab your camera, head out, and find a subject to shoot.
It’ll be a lot of fun!
Now over to you:
Which of these landscape photography tips are you going to try first? And do you have any landscape photo tips of your own? Share your thoughts (and images!) in the comments below.
The post 11 Surefire Landscape Photography Tips (+ Stunning Examples) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.
The post 15 Mountain Landscape Photography Tips for Stunning Images appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by John McIntire.
Of all of the undertakings you can make with your camera, mountain landscape photography can be one of the most rewarding. Apart from the fact that mountains are straight-up beautiful, their imposing nature makes them a great landscape photography element.
This article will give you 15 quick tips – so you get better results the next time you go chasing after mountains.
1. Fill the frame
Mountains, by nature, are huge. You don’t have to get the entire thing in the frame. It’s just as acceptable to fill the frame with a certain element that draws your attention. This will make the mountain the background in your images.
Yes, it can be tempting to try and get a huge vista in the frame. But if you take a moment to look for smaller details that could make an interesting photo, you might find something unexpected.
Although the entirety of the mountain isn’t in the frame, it is still clear that the background is a mountain, and the tight crop gives a clue to just how big it is. Canon 5D Mark III | Canon EF 70-200mm f/4L IS USM | 200mm | f/5.6 | 1/2000s | ISO 200
2. Use reflections when possible
Using reflections in your compositions is a great way to show off mountains. Canon 7D | Canon EF 35mm f/2 | 35mm | f/16 | 1/50s | ISO 100
If the mountains you are photographing are near a body of water, you already have a ton of visual interest to use in your foregrounds.
If you can, wait until the water is still. Then you can use the reflections of the mountains in your composition. This may be personal taste, but it is always a winning combination in my book.
3. Show scale with smaller elements
This tiny village near the top of a mountain in Spain shows just how enormous the landscape is. Canon 7D | Canon EF 35mm f/2 | f/11 | 1/60s | ISO 100
Again, mountains tend to be huge, but when you shoot with an ultra-wide-angle lens, you wind up pushing the perspective back. And this makes it difficult to give your viewers a true sense of just how large things are within your frame.
You can combat this by including an element that shows the scale of things in the scene. Buildings, people, and animals all work well.
4. Include people in the landscape
As with the previous point, putting people in your mountain landscape photography can convey just how big the mountains are.
It does more than that, however. Because with the inclusion of a human element, you are adding something that your viewers can relate to.
5. Try a panorama
Stitching several images together into a panorama is a great way to ensure that you capture the entire scene. Canon 7D | Canon EF 35mm f/2 | f/16 | 0.4s | ISO 100
When you are photographing mountains, don’t be afraid to take a sequence of shots that you can stitch together as a panorama.
Mountain ranges tend to suit the panorama format especially well because there is just so much to see!
6. Fill your foreground
This may be standard landscape photography advice, but it still applies when shooting mountains. If you’re using a wide-angle lens, you will have plenty of space in your foreground – and you’ll need to fill it with something interesting.
So pick a foreground subject and get up close to it. This could be flowers, an interesting rock formation, or something simple like a sign.
Then take a shot that combines the interesting foreground and a beautiful mountain background, like this:
Having lots of visual interest in the foreground of your images can help your viewers stay engaged. Canon 7D | Sigma EF 10-20mm f/3.5 | 10mm | f/11 | 1/60s | ISO 100
7. Include a human element
Not all mountains are wild places. Including signs of human habitation can be a good way to capture something interesting. Canon 5D Mark III | Canon EF 70-200mm f/4L IS USM | 169mm | f/11 | 1/60s | ISO 100
By human element, I don’t mean people. Instead, I advise you to find something human-made that will show your viewers how the people that live nearby incorporate the mountain into their lives.
On their own, mountains are impressive. But as part of our world, they are also part of our lives. If you can show this in your images, you might be able to convey an interesting narrative.
8. Use a different focal point
In mountain landscape photography, the mountain doesn’t need to be the focal point of your image. Even in this case, where there’s a mountain, a glacier, and a volcano! Canon 7D | Canon EF 35mm f/2 | 35mm | f/11 | 0.5s | ISO 100
In your mountain landscape photography, the mountain does not need to be the focal point of your image. Instead, you can find a different focal point and use the mountain as environmental information.
Of course, you can still take a photograph of the sweeping vista. But once that is done, look smaller – and see if there are other subjects to be found in the scene.
9. Use your GND filters
Graduated neutral density filters are a great way to control your exposures. Canon 7D | Sigma EF 10-20mm f/3.5 | 10mm | f/16 | 0.3s | ISO 100
To help you get good exposures while in the field, don’t forget to pack your graduated neutral density filters. These will allow you to even out your exposures at the time of capture, making it easier to process your images when you get back home.
10. Wait for the light
Here, I waited from 4 AM to 8 AM for the fog to break. If you can, always, always try to wait out the weather. Canon 7D | Sigma EF 10-20mm f/3.5 | 11mm | f/16 | 0.5s | ISO 100
This tip cannot be understated. If you want the best-looking mountain landscape photography images that you can produce, wait for the light to be at its best. If you get on location early and find the composition that you want, don’t be afraid to stay until the light shifts – even if it takes a couple of hours.
Yes, I know it can seem boring, and it’s hard to justify the effort, but please, trust me. It is very much worth the time and effort.
11. Use longer lenses
When you are packing for your trip into the mountains, don’t forget to take your longer lenses with you. Standard-length primes can be great for panoramas, but telephoto lenses can help you pick out smaller details in your scenes.
In other words:
There is a lot of room in landscape photography for lenses aside from the wide angles that dominate the genre.
12. Plan for the light
With the technology available to us, it’s easier than ever to know exactly which direction the light is going to come from on any given day of the year.
So once you know when and where you are going, do your research and figure out where the sun is going to rise or set. Then plan your shots based on that.
13. Plan for the weather
Like planning for the light, it’s also a good idea to plan for the weather. Knowing the weather will help you determine if you need to pack any extra gear like rain covers and waterproof clothing.
Of course, it’s also in the best interest of personal safety to have an idea of when snow or rain might appear. This is even more important if you intend to be on the mountain, especially after golden hour.
14. Don’t avoid bad weather
After an entire day of low visibility, the fog broke for a total of five minutes, just long enough for a shot. Don’t avoid bad weather, even if you ultimately fail to get a photo. Canon 7D | Sigma EF 10-20mm f/3.5 | 20mm | f/16 | 1/30s | ISO 100
While planning for bad weather is good, you don’t always need to stay indoors. Many times, the most interesting photos will come in the worst weather.
In fact, some of the best light I have ever seen has been during a break in a storm; these breaks allow just enough light to make things look like a fairytale.
And if you lock yourself away when the weather is bad, you’ll never get to experience such moments.
15. Be safe
Above all, strive for safety. Mountain landscape photography can be incredibly rewarding, but don’t risk your personal well-being for a great shot.
Watch where you’re going, take weather-appropriate clothing, be aware of the forecast, and tell somebody where you are going to be. And if you’re going to stay out until after blue hour, make sure you know exactly how to get back.
Mountain landscape photography: the end
I hope this article has inspired you to get out and create your own mountain landscape photography.
The next time you’re out shooting mountains, remember these tips – and have fun!
Have you photographed mountains before? Do you have any tips of your own? Share them in the comments below!
What type of lens is best for mountain landscape photography?
All lenses have their uses. Wide-angle lenses are the most popular, but standard and telephoto lenses can work, too.
What’s the best time of day to photograph mountains?
It entirely depends on where the light is hitting the mountain. The golden hours are best as long as the sun isn’t behind your mountain.
How do you show how big a mountain is in a photograph?
You include an element that is easy for the viewer to identify, such as a person. This will give your images a sense of scale.
Why do the mountains in my photographs look so far away?
Wide-angle lenses distort perspective, and this can push everything back in the frame. Use a standard focal length (35mm to 50mm) for a perspective close to the human eye’s. To include more in the frame, consider shooting in a panoramic format.
The post 15 Mountain Landscape Photography Tips for Stunning Images appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by John McIntire.
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